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Found 184 results

  1. Trumpeter are releasing a very exciting item later this year: A massive 1/48 German WWII U-Boat Type VIIC U-552 Kit! Included with this model will be a transparent Starboard side to display all the interior detailing, and 48 submariner figures! With over 1100 parts this models is sure to get enthusiasts talking. Pre orders will be open sometime in the next few weeks, so watch this space! For full details, please see our newsletter.
  2. Ki-43-IIa "Oscar" | Hasegawa | 1/72 Japan -- 50th Sentai, 3rd Chutai -- Satoru Anabuki, Pilot 1943 Finished this one on Feburary 3rd, 2019. It was done completely on impulse. After reading a complementary review of the old Hasegawa Oscar kit, I pulled that same kit out of my stash and started working on it. The reviewer was pleased with how the kit just fell together, which was mostly true for me, except for the port wing which had some interference keeping it from making a snug fit -- never figured it out and had to do a little filling to compensate. When I looked closely at a build log of this same kit, I couldn't see that person had the same problem, so I guess I'm just lucky. The Ki-43 Oscar was the Imperial Japanese Army's primary fighter until mid- to late-1943 when better types were introduced. It is often mistaken for the Zero by non-enthusiasts, but the Zero was a superior fighter to the Oscar. The Oscar was nimble and in the right hands could be a potent adversary. I like to think of it kind of like our P-40: It was a workhorse that served through the entire conflict and was "good enough". This particular aircraft was flown by Sgt. Satoru Anabuki, who ended WWII with 51 claimed victories (39 officially recognized). After the war he flew helicopters for the Japanese defense force, retiring as a Lt. Colonel in 1971. He went on to fly for Japan airlines, retiring from there in 1984. He passed away in 2005. Finishing: Seams filled with CA (superglue), port wing root seam filled with Apoxie Sculpt epoxy putty. Paints: no primer > Tamiya TS30 Silver Leaf (decanted into airbrush) > Some panels painted with Mr. Color Super metallic stainless steel (darker) > some panels painted with Alclad White Aluminum (lighter) > Dark aluminum used for faint shading > Mottling is a mix of Mr. Color greens to replicate Tamiya IJA green > Tamiya IJA gray for control surfaces > sealed with Testors Metallizer sealer Decals: Kit decals Kinda wish I knew how to make the bottom a little dirtier. It looks a little too clean, but will be OK sitting on a shelf. One thing I noticed in the historical reference photos I have is that the nose cone on most (not all...) Oscars was really chewed up! Sometimes it was the most worn part of the plane. I wonder if it's because of the Hucks starter they used? Backing the starter truck up can't be easy -- maybe they bunged up the nose that way? Anyway, I used salt chipping on the nose and front of the cowl to match the look of the historical photos I had. Painted the engine black, and then went over it with a pencil -- new technique for me, but it worked really well! I treated this build like a full NMF build, even though it might have been completely covered by mottling. This gave me the opportunity to practice a bit more with the Silver Leaf. I found that adding a little Mr. Color leveling thinner and then spraying it so that it wet makes for a much more reflective surface than on my previous build I used it on (Jian Ji-2). Build notes: The Hasegawa kit practically fell together. I was apprehensive about the raised panel lines, but I think they look OK. The eye can be tricked into thinking they are recessed. I think I may be more comfortable with NMF and raised panel lines since this one came out OK, which means there might be a Airfix P-80 on my bench soon! Mottling on the empanage was Tamiya IJA green, but I found that it scratched off very easily! Not easily enough to take it off though, so I switched to Mr. Color for the rest. I found that scratched off fairly easily, but not nearly as easily as the Tamiya acrylic. I'm still not sure about the durability of acrylics, although the slickness of the NMF may partially to blame here. I had the worst time trying to decide how to do the mottling. There aren't many good quality historical photos of the Oscar, and those that are there seem to have mottling styles that are all over the place. Same with models I've seen, some are like mine, some are a fine scribble. I couldn't find any reference photos of Anabuki's plane, so in the end I used the Hasegawa studio model as a reference, hoping they'd done their homework! Thanks for looking! Comments, questions and constructive criticism always welcome!
  3. Here's what I consider my latest completion for 2017, even if we are already into 2018: KIT: Hasegawa 1:48 Macchi C205 VELTRO AIRFRAME: AerMacchi built Macchi C205 VELTRO Serie I, 360sima squadriglia, 150° gruppo, 51° stormo MARKINGS: the wing insignia ("fasci alari"), tail crosses and code numbers were airbrushed using self produced masks; the Savoia emblems inside the tail crosses and the red alignment arrows for the variable incidence tail planes were custom printed on transparent decal film and kindly donated by Eugenio @72linerlover , the rest of decals are from the kit PAINTS: mainly Lifecolor acrylics (including the dedicated set for Italian WWII fighters), airbrushed, with the addition of Model Master Metallizer Titanium for the exhausts and Tamiya acrylics for the white bands and crosses, the codes and a few other details. The smoke ring camo is airbrushed as well, thinning the relevant paint with Vallejo Glaze Medium and spraying at a very low pressure, removing the airbrush protective cap. Many thanks to @Giorgio N for the advice on Vallejo Glazing Medium WEATHERING: mostly with tempera washes, various hues Aftermarkets: - SBS Models resin/PE cockpit set - Quickboost exhaust stacks Scratchbuilding: - Resin ailerons; my first attempt at resin casting, pretty happy with that - Supercharger intake butterfly valve, using plastic card - Oil radiators grid covers, from PE leftovers - Main U/C bay sand covers, plounge molded over gum masters (actually nade cutting them out from a Staedler pencil eraser) - Main U/C bay inner doors, from some beer can cutouts and 0.5mm styrene sheet - Undercarriage actuator arms, from steel pipe and rod - Pitot tube, using a prescription needle and steel rod - Fuel tank vent, from brass pipe - The tail plane fairings were removed from the fuselage and I molded a milliput copy to be applied directly onto the kit tail planes, because on the real aircraft they had variable incidence, so there's a gap between the fairings and the fuselage - Main wheels brake lines, using various tin and copper wires - Wing navigation lights, again plounge modling clear plastic, using the model wing as master - and stretched clear sprue to reproduce the lamps and a few other minor things. This model is the second of a double build, which involved a C202 Folgore (completed in August 2017), again from Hasegawa; here's the WIP thread, in case you're interested A huge thank you to everybody participated in the WIP thread with suggestions, encouragement, advice and even supplying stuff . Enough blah-blah, on with the pics: All comments welcome Ciao Edit: here are some family pics with the other subject of the double build
  4. Today sees the launch of a new brand of Acrylic Lacquer paints from well-known company AK Interactive, which have been worked on in association with a number of respected aircraft and armour colour experts for over a year, including our own @Nick Millman. They have produced a range of colours that will be of great use to anyone making models of WWII aircraft or AFVs of the main protagonists in the European arena, namely Great Britain, America, Russia, and their foes Nazi Germany. Using their own knowledge of paint manufacture and formulation, coupled with the named experts (you'll see those names later on), they are more than a little bit proud to launch the range, which is accompanied by a book on the subject that looks to be well worth a read. At time of writing we are waiting for our samples, plus a copy of the book, but from looking at the pre-release publicity material, it all looks very interesting. If you scroll to the bottom there are some useful links to the initial range of paints and other information, so you can see all the shades that will be available initially, and if you visit their site you should be able to see the new racks with the branding on so that you can hunt them down in your local bricks & mortar model shop if you're not ordering online. You should be able to buy the pots individually or in themed sets, and as well as the Real Color AIR sets, there are also a range of Real Color AFVs coming too, with 133 available AIR and a further 114 in AFV flavours. If you're feeling flush you can buy the whole set in one fell swoop, which will ensure you have every colour to hand plus their clear coats right from the outset. The formulation is suitable for use their own thinners which are odourless (always good), and other thinners that can be used with non-latex acrylic paint formulations. The pots are glass, and contain 10ml of paint with a textured lid that makes it easier to remove, and the details of the paint colour and number are easily seen on the colourful labels. To accompany the range of paints, AK have also launched two books, entitled Real Colors of WWII Air and Real Colors of WWII AFV, which are a companion to the colours, and have a serious quantity of information and colour photographs that will amuse you for hours, and serve as a reference for future use. You can see details of both volumes here, but we have reproduced a few pages of the Air edition here in case you're short of time. You can find a handy PDF conversion sheet here, the full release information and range of paints can be seen on their dedicated website here along with information about how to use them, the names of the collaborators, and how they went about selecting shades for "The Accuracy". We're really looking forward to seeing the fruits of their labours, and will report back in due course when we have the paints and books to hand. Thanks to Fernando at AK for the information, and to all the people that took part in this expedition into colour accuracy.
  5. Pz.Kpfw.III Ausf.D/B (36402 for MiniArt) 1:35 Eduard MiniArt's new and growing range of Panzer III models in 1:35 gets the Eduard treatment with this new set that's designed to augment the detail already there. As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package, with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between. A single brass fret contains all the parts needed, which starts with a new set of fenders with workable hinges that depend upon lengths of 0.3mm wire that you must provide, and result in a highly realistic finished item. At the rear a set of detailed mesh panels are folded and fixed to the cooling vents under the rear apron. The kit jack block is replaced by an all-new three-section PE assembly that replicates the wood grain, and is held together by a frame each end and a carry-handle. This is fitted into a new bracket on the fender, and is accompanied by new shackles for the pioneer tools such as the axe, fire extinguisher, jack itself, pry-bar and the S-shaped track-tool. The moulded-in cleats must be removed from the tools first of course, and the area made good. Review sample courtesy of
  6. I'm interested in doing a few figures in 1/48 scale from the North Africa theatre in WWII, but aside from the Tamiya Afrika Korps set, I'm not finding too much out there. Anyone have any suggestions for nice Afrika Korps and/or 8th Army infantry figures in this scale? Metal would be great, but resin or plastic works, too. 40mm scale wargaming figures would probably also work. Any ideas? Thanks.
  7. Hi all,just finished Hasegawas 1/48 P-40e, which I`ve done as 1st Lt, Richard Vodras `Squirlbate` used in the South West Pacific Theatre Decals came from a Superscale sheet which depicts a P-40n as the aircraft but from what i can find out Vodras `N` was O/D N/G scheme with the chequered tail other wise it`s pretty much OOB with just seatbelts, brake pipes, fuel tank breather and antenna added Got to do some more Hasegawa `49ers to replace my dodgy Revell ones as there a really wide variety of schemes and markings. thought whilst I was here I`d also show you my previous Hasegawa P-40 builds P-40k, done as 1st Lt, Ed Nollmeyers White 255, 51st FG which was used in the CBI and unusually has no eyes to go with the sharkmouth and finally P-40n, done as White 55, of 2nd Lt, Herbert Doughty with the 80th FG kit was actually the Finnish M boxing but with Cutting Edge decals used which is another CBI Warhawk Hope you enjoy, thanks for looking Cheers Russ
  8. This is my completed Pegaso bust of a Kamikaze pilot during World War II, he has been expertly sculpted in his final dive, The determined but frightened (?) expression on his face has been superbly captured. the clothing detail is very sharp, overall a very enjoyable couple of months spent getting him from a few pieces of grey resin to this final point. Face was painted with Andrea flesh set and the rest with various Tamiya, Mig, AK and vallejo colours, on with the photos;
  9. Hi everyone,I have a personal mini sig of my own, I want to build a 1/72 model (apart from the Vulcan which will be 1/144) of every aircraft flown by 617sqn RAF. This build is going to be the start of that personal quest!!So for the build it will be straight oob part from the decals for which I will be using Xtradecals Dambusters set. It will be depicted as Wing Commander L. Cheshire's North American Mustang III, based a RAF Woodhall Spa in the Summer of 1944.Here are the box, sprue, instructions and kit decals:Hobby Boss 1/72 P-51C Mustang by Neal, on FlickrOverview of what is inside. by Neal, on FlickrInstructions cover. by Neal, on FlickrA 2 step build, really? by Neal, on FlickrUntitled by Neal, on FlickrDecal sheet. by Neal, on FlickrSprue inside the box. by Neal, on FlickrFuselage in one part. by Neal, on FlickrNice detail for an easy assembly kit! by Neal, on FlickrOne piece wing, upper view. by Neal, on FlickrOne piece wing, underside. Nice detail in the wheel wells! by Neal, on FlickrSprue A1. by Neal, on FlickrSprue A2. by Neal, on FlickrLower fuselage cover. by Neal, on FlickrMetal shaft for the prop. by Neal, on FlickrSprue D. by Neal, on FlickrSprue C. by Neal, on FlickrAnd now the aftermarket bits:A really big sheet of decals for only two serial numbers:Xtradecal X72093 No 617 San Dambusters Decals. by Neal, on FlickrDecals instructions. by Neal, on FlickrI took these photos a while ago but hadn't got round to posting them. I have also made a start on the build and will get an update here soonish. I need to do some research about Wg. Cdr Chesire's Mustang as I do not know if it carried external tanks or not, also the radio antenna looks different to the kits.That is all for now.
  10. Although I know the question I'm about to ask is impossible to answer conclusively, I would be grateful for and educated or informed 'best guess'. One of my granddads was stationed somewhere near Scapa Flow for most of WWII (when he talked about his wartime experience, my dad used to say, “Harold, the war was in the other direction”). As we are about to visit Orkney, I thought I might go to see where he was stationed. As it's a small island, I assumed that there were only one or two airfields, but last night I had a look and found this lot: RAF Grimsetter (now Kirkwall airport), RAF Skeabrae, RAF Netherbutton (radar station), HMS Sparrowhawk/ RNAS Hatston HMS Tern / RNAS Twatt (Sorry Mike, but that really was its name). As he was in the RAF military police, I assume the last two can be discounted. Would he be stationed at a particular site and if so, which is the more likely, or is it more probable that he would have moved around to all the RAF bases on Orkney, so looking for a particular site would be pointless? Thanks for taking the time to look in. Gorby
  11. Hello Everyone, I've been looking forward to building this kit for a little while but until now have been putting it off because I am sure it is going to offer a few challenges along the way. The kit is limited in detail so I intend to do some scratch building, especially in the cockpit and I have also bought some upgrade parts including exhausts and wheels.
  12. Dear All, Here is my rendition of Italeri's 1/72 Dornier Do-24T1, in the colours of Luftwaffe's 3/Seenotgruppe, 1942 (in a unidentified operational theatre, though it could be the Black Sea, due to the yellow underwing tips). This build started life as my entry to the Flying Boats and Floatplanes GB, which I hosted in late 2017 till mid-January 2018. As usual, I didn't manage to finish in time but I was using this build as a test bed for seaplane weathering techniques, so it would be difficult to finish in time anyway. In fact, it took me an additional 4 and a half months past the GB deadline to finish it... First a few words on the kit itself: Fit is generally good, but I had to fill in the joins between the wing sections and between the sponsons and fuselage. The really worst part, in terms of fit is glueing the wing to the struts and these to the fuselage, as there are almost no location holes to ensure proper alignment. Good detail in the cockpit and engines, the machine guns are not bad either (for plastic parts) There's a lot of surface detail: a mix of recessed panel lines, raised panel lines and rivets. I'm sure there will be people who won't like it but it didn't bother me. In fact, it seems that a lot more panel lines could be seen in real pictures. The kit comes with a PE fret but the instrument panel has no detail for the instruments (it's not a multi-layer panel, like Eduard's current approach, or a metal part + acetate with instruments; there's no decal for instruments either). However, this is a minor point, as the instrument panel can't really be seen through the cockpit windows. The PE walkways are very difficult to bend on the edges (there should be a slight bend, delimiting the walkways laterally) The transparent parts for the side windows are really bad but, again, there's nothing to look at inside and the gun turrets are a bit thick. The transparent part for the cockpit windows is very clear and distortion free but didn't fit perfectly on the fuselage. The instructions are reasonably good but some details are a bit vague (ex: installation of the rear turret, demarcation of the camouflage in the German versions) and there was an error on the decal scheme of the German versions (decals nº 9 should be nº 10 and vice-versa) The decals are very good (Cartograph) Regarding the build itself, some noteworthy points: The kit was built completely out of the box. No after-market or scratch building has been added, with the exception of rigging and antenna wires. I used Gunze Aquous and Tamiya acrylic paints (XF-26 and XF-27 for RLM72 and RLM73, respectively) airbrushed The most important part of the build was the weathering (based as much as possible on period pictures): a lot of chipping was applied on walk-on areas and areas subject to friction or spray of sea water chipping was applied in several layers: aluminium - chipping fluid - primer colour (RLM02) - chipping - chipping fluid - camouflage colour - chipping salt accumulations on the top surfaces simulated with a misty layer of "rain streaks" product, which was then removed almost totally with a brush water line mark created with AMMO Mig's "Nature Effects Dark Slime" grime accumulation and staining of panel lines and panels on the undersides (hull, tail, tailplane) with several AMMO Mig Oilbrusher colours (Dark Brown, Ochre, Olive Gree, Rust) panel lines on "above the water" surfaces were enhanced with a dark brown wash oil leaks on engine nacelles with a "Fresh Engine Oil" product fuel leaks on top of wing with diluted transparent yellow exhaust stains on top of wing using black pastels As a first try with sea plane weathering techniques I'm very pleased with the results. The WIP can be found here. Here are the final pictures. 1. Overall views IMAG5519 IMAG5520 IMAG5526 IMAG5527 IMAG5531 IMAG5532 IMAG5535 IMAG5499 IMAG5503 IMAG5506 IMAG5539 IMAG5521 IMAG5534 2. Details of gun turrets and cockpit Front turret IMAG5522 Cockpit barely seen through the windows IMAG5523 Mid-ship turret IMAG5515 Tail turret: IMAG5516 3. Rigging, antennas and engine detail Rigging between the lateral struts, done with elastic fishing wire, brushpainted RLM65, antenna wires done with AMMO 0,3 mm rigging thread: IMAG5524 Details of engine nacelles and propellers, showing engine oil spills: IMAG5525 IMAG5537 IMAG5538 Some chipping on the propellers, done with a silver pencil: IMAG5536 4. Weathering on the upper surface of the wing Chipping on the walk-on surfaces, chipped paint on nacelles, oil spills, fuel spills, exhaust stains: IMAG5528 Detail of starboard side, showing also some accumulation of salt: IMAG5529 The same for the port side: IMAG5530 5. Weathering on the under surfaces of the wing and tail plane Accumulations of salt and grime and general staining of the starboard underside of the wing: IMAG5540 The same for the port side: IMAG5540 Underside of the tail plane, weathered differently, since it was subject to sea water spills: IMAG5542 6. Weathering of the hull and sponsons The weathering of the hull and sponsons includes: chipping of the paint, showing primer (RLM02) or metal, water line mark, accumulation of grime on panel lines and panel staining and spots of rust: IMAG5543 IMAG5544 IMAG5545 IMAG5546 IMAG5547 IMAG5549 7. Interior detail The following series of pictures shows the finished cockpit before closing the fuselage. It's been weathered with dry brush and wash techniques: IMAG5141 IMAG5142 IMAG5144 IMAG5145 IMAG5146 IMAG5147 IMAG5148 8. Pictures of real weathered aircraft (for comparison) Just for comparison of my weathering efforts with real weathered aircraft, here are period pictures of Luftwaffe Do24s: I hope you like it. All comments are welcome. Thanks for looking. Jaime Cheers
  13. Dear friends I'd like to share with you my work on this Matchbox kit. First of all my thanks to Vulcanicity for his 2017 topic who guided me through my work. A very important guide I used his topic, the Mushroom book and the G.A.G. Cox precious (precious, my precious......) profile. He gave me the courage to face the challenge. I post only the final result of the interiors before closing because the step by step would be only a copy and paste of Vulcanicity big work. The only difference is that I preferred to detail the bomber position using the profile. Actually I have to complete only the cockpit. Next step will be find te desired profile. Now i'm thinking to the MB version code BN based at Stanraer but i have one doubt about the lower surface colour. On the MB box (i lose the instructions .....) it seems gray or light blue nut in the Mushroom profile it is declared as bare metal. It may be because at the beginning these planes were not painted. If someone has some interesting profile it would be very very appreciated
  14. So I have recently joined Britmodeller and decided I should share what I am currently building at the moment.. Unfortunately I am due to deploy so I won't have much done for a few months but I hope to come back and get this finished. Will be my first model in a very long time (Family )
  15. Hi to all,My main hobby is mount tanks 1/35. On each kit there are several leftover pieces. One day I imagined mount something with those pieces and this is the result. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mS_XDiluZs4
  16. What is the true colour of Dark Green as applied to UK manufactured aircraft during WWII? For many years I've used Humbrol 30 and it is very close to US FS 595A Ref 34096. I got a copy of the Federal Standard paint chips back in the 1970s and it is kept in the dark. RAF Dark Green is a bluish green with no hint of brown. Recent tins of 30 are, when dry, almost exactly the same as 30 painted on to models back in the 1970s. Exploring airbrushing and acrylics purchased a number of Vallejo paints, covering WWII RAF colours. I was given a basic set of LifeColour paints. This week I tried both Life Colour 538 and Vallejo 71.016. Both claim to be RAF Dark Green, but once painted and dry are VERY different. The Vallejo seems to be more like 34096, a dark olive green colour with no blue hue at all and the Lifecolour is worse, a light earthy colour, more like 34027. What is the general experience of the colour accuracy of acrylic paints form the various makers? At the moment, based on one trial I'm very suspicious of all these acrylic paints..based on these two the temptation is to bin the lot!
  17. Hello Everyone, Although I am quite near to the completion of this build, as a new member with Britmodeller I wanted to post my first "Work In Progress" topic for my current project the Eduard 1/48 Fleet Air Arm Hellcat Mk.I. This is the first Eduard kit I have build and have really enjoyed building it, the detail is very good and the kit went together really easily. Sorry in advance for the number of photos.
  18. Guys, question for you all. I’m building a Hurricane Mk. I kit right now, and I need to know what color the wingtip lights were. From various pictures I’ve found online, I’m getting conflicting info. I recently completed a Tamiya Spitfire Mk. I kit and its kit instructions said blue on the port side light, red on the starboard. This kit’s instructions don’t give specific instructions (Airfix 1/48 scale kit); instead they have some color illustrations (for showing decal placement) which give conflicting depictions! Some show green on starboard side, red on port, others vice versa! (Don’t get me started on Airfix “quality control”). So which is it? Anyone seen the real deal up close and can tell me? Thanks in advance.
  19. Some pics of a Horten 229 I recently completed; Revell kit in 1:72 scale. https://pin.it/dp52f7pdj5zs3k https://pin.it/mxetygke6jgp4n https://pin.it/eyfp37i3nviqh2
  20. Hello ladies and gents, Kit manufacture: Hobby Boss Scale: 1/72 Type: P-51C Mustang Extras used: Xtradecal set X72-093 Paints and colours used: Primer Stynelryz Grey; Paints Tamiya XF-82 Ocean Grey, Tamiya XF-81 RAF Dark Green & Mr Hobby Aquaeous H335 Medium Sea Grey; Flory Dark Dirt Wash; Tamiya Weathering sets Other info: the full build can be found here Untitled by Neal, on FlickrUntitled by Neal, on FlickrUntitled by Neal, on FlickrThese photos are quick snapshots taken with my iPhone as I have not had time to get my DSLR out.Thanks for lookingNeal
  21. Whilst researching a friend's father-in-law's service record (see my earlier Halifax question) I came across these abbreviations which I cannot identify. 10 SOS, Reception Centre Blackpool. What's SOS? After that he went to 2W 23. No idea at all here! His Wireless training was at 2 Signals School. I can't find a record of it. His gunnery training was with 5 AGS. According to records it didn't form. Any help greatly appreciated.
  22. Hi, I started it last July, finished yesterday. This is Frog mould of He 115 C produced now by Revell, I converted it into He 115 N of Norway. The conversion (WIP thread) was presented here:http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235006240-norwegian-he-115-in-172/. The photo of this machine, which inspired me to construct it is that one: There is also a thread in WWII part on caputred in England ex-Norwegian He-115s http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/63595-captured-heinkel-115/&page=4 where Mr. Kjetil Akra was kind to present some illustrations from his not issued yet book on He-115. I appreciete very much his great help in details of differences between Norwegian He 115 and German He 115 C. The main part of conversion was in engines and front glazing. I not exactly followed the scheme in profiles of Kjetil, since for me the at the photo above some non-regular Norwegian national insignia is overpainted hastitly on the top of fin. Moreover I see the dark green spatches on wing near fuselage and they are not present on profile. The spatches on left wing are my "licence poetica" but I think they are in logic of Norwegian patterns which you may see on Hover MF 11 as well. Here is the results: Photos are taken with bulb light, now I wil have to wait until week-end to do day light at home. When I go work in morning it is still a bit too dark, when I came back it is dark again.... Comments welcome Cheers Jerzy-Wojtek P.S. from Saturday, the 11th Feb 2017 Below are addditional, day light photos which I promised :): Thank you for watching J-W
  23. Hi Everyone, Just managed to get some photo`s of my very latest effort, which I hope you don`t mind me sharing Special Hobby`s 1/48 Airspeed Oxford built from their `Royal Navy` Boxing Finished in the second marking option from the box to represent an `Oxbox` of the Far East Indies Fleet and based at various locations including: .....Tambaram, India and Puttalam, Katukurunda in Ceylon ( according to the instruction leaflet ) Built 99% OOB with just ignition harness and aerial wires added........ ..although, after establishing that there was no way of seeing them, I did away with the fiddley photo-etched seat mounts and put them on little blocks of wood instead One of the easiest SH kits I`ve ever made with very little filling and sanding involved. Hope you enjoy, thanks for looking Cheers Russ
  24. Tamiya 1/48 Sturmtiger vignette under construction. Just to add the keep off/out tape and paint the huge projectile.
  25. Hi everyone, Just found time, so I hope you don`t mind seeing some shots of my latest effort My attempt at AZ`s 1/48 `Lily` Finished to represent an aircraft of: 8th Sentai, 3rd Chutai, Burma, 1942 Built mostly from the box contents except for the nose gun barrel which I lost somewhere along the road Added ignition harness from wire, aerials, seat belts and................. pitot tube. Wasn`t too bad a build, a big improvement over their Vengeance which was the last one of theirs I tried. Hope you enjoy,thanks for looking Cheers Russ
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