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Found 111 results

  1. Hallo again In summary a nice model, a real challenge. A good kit from WNW, with some surprises included. My last WNW model. I choose spraying the camouflage, to prevent working with decals. You never know, if there are troubles with decals, it is too late. I learned my lessons already. Never trust any instruction! At the very end, surprise, surprise! How to install the gun? Because the holding D18 prevents rotating! It is so foolish. The cramped front position with the bombs vertically, no space left, and the gun looks tangential outboard! The kit part D18 is a flaw. The lower door, is actually closed by a spring. And as I read in Flight International after capture, no gun position was there either. The bomb installation opens questions, but no suitable answer in the instruction. So I left my outboard bombs at home! Well, dear modeler, never trust any instruction and be prepared for real astonishment. It is like an ambush! Stay ready to improve, and you may win! If you like crossword puzzle, so take WNW instruction, they are a puzzle. For rigging: Everything is written in my post, to create the same rigging as I did on this AEG! Happy modelling
  2. Hallo again Here is one Sopwith Dolphin in 48. Enjoy the photos. Happy modelling
  3. Hallo again This Salmson I built some time ago. Enjoy the photos! Happy modelling
  4. Hallo again This is my Fokker E IV. In scale 1/32 from WNW. Happy modelling
  5. Hallo again Enjoy the photos! Happy modelling
  6. Hallo again This kit is scale 32. Not easy! Happy modelling
  7. Hallo again This is my Albatros in 1/32: Happy modelling
  8. Hallo again This is my Roland D.VIb in 1/32: Happy modelling
  9. Hallo again This is my Pfalz D.XII in 1/32 Happy modelling
  10. Hallo again Here is my LVG C.VI in 1/32 Happy modelling
  11. Hallo again: Here please is my DFW C.V in 1/32: Happy modelling
  12. Hallo again With self designed strut support plates. A new idea. Happy modelling
  13. Hallo again Now I finished my Stahltaube from WNW. Actually it was not an easy kit. My first small fault was a front bulkhead, which was misaligned. Here I had to do some restoration work at the front part of the fuselage. Well, after this my next challenge was the filling process. I usually worked with Surfacer. Here, it did not work at all. So I went on with super glue, as my husband told me to try. This worked perfect. So, after all this, the paint job was next. Here I was in the wonderful situation, to have close examined a replica of the Etrich Taube, some years ago. So I could adapt some ideas for coloring the wings. Well, after a long nerving battle, the Taube I finished yesterday. Happy modelling
  14. Hallo This is my Roland CII late. In contrast to the Roland CII early, it is much more colorful. My Roland CII early, you will find here. Beside this, I did two major changes. · The rigging without knots · The airscrew, now laminated. Well, I hope you enjoy it. Happy modelling
  15. Hello all, Wingnuts beautifully crafted Sopwith Triplane has been fumbled together by me over the course of the last 9 months. For anyone who knows me, that is RAPID! I can't fault the kit. It is pure New Zealand Gold. The only thing I can fault is my need to try to make everything look perfect. I'm sure I can work on that imperfection and as a result build more kits. I have one image for now, but will upload more soon. Cheers my dears Von Buckle KFC 1st Class
  16. Hallo again Now here I do a Roland CII early from WNW in 1/32 scale. This a/c is at the time of design at 1915 a highly sophisticated a/c. Why: The aerodynamic with the goal to minimize drag was the guideline. At Göttingen, the University in the field of aerodynamic, with his head Ludwig Prandtl (4 February 1875 – 15 August 1953) was in charge of design. The concept was excellent, since the margin of 30km/h was reached. The same basic design was used for the Spirit of St. Louis. Spirit of St. Louis The overall concept for flight characteristic was poor. No downward visibility. The rudder response was poor, because of low incident flow at the rudder area. The build of this a/c is straight forward. · One point to mention: The shading or visual effect of ribs due to the fact that the fabric was translucent. You see the poor result at the rear stabilizer, as I did it. · Now I change the method: The surface is colored as it should be with any base color. Afterward I will take the base color and rib color in 1:10 or 1:5 and spray the exact pattern of ribs. It should work out much better and it is 100% comprehensible for other models. So, that is it. After it is finished, the late version will follow! Happy modelling
  17. Fokker Dr.1 Triplane 1:32 Roden On hearing the news that Wingnut Wings are going to release 1:32 'Early' and 'Late' versions of the Fokker Triplane in 2020, I thought I'd better get on with my Roden kit or it might never get built. I bought it because Wingnut Wings have a general policy of not producing kits already available from other manufacturers, and I reckoned this was one they might never do. Wrong! It is pretty good but lacks the refinement of a Wingnut Wings kit, and also benefits from a few detail additions and corrections. Having already built one from the Encore boxing of Werner Voss's early F.1 version with Fokker's 'streaky green' camouflage: (it is the Roden kit in an Encore box) I want to do a more colorful one. I intend to do the red and white one operated by Jasta 18 and featured as a bonus on Pheon Decals 1:32 Jasta 18 Fokker Fighters decal sheet. I've already used Pheons sheet to do it in 1:48 on the Eduard kit, so this is what I'll be intending to do here; First up I added the edging for the plywood panels that are missing inside the fuselage halves, using some Evergreen strip. The white discs are where I filled in some ejector pin marks. The forward tank should have a filler either side, so a matching hole needs drilling in the coaming, and scratchbuilt spout adding. While I was working on the coaming section, I test fitted it on the taped together fuselage halves. There is quite a bit of fit interference, cured by trimming excess plastic from the inside at the rear of the opening for the middle wing. Moving on to the cowling, it can be improved by scribing in the semi circular panel line on the front face. I put a block off wood under the prop shaft hole, and centred the compass cutter on it, and scribed. Looking better. I also made a series of rivet marks around the outer edge. Also, there is a raised strap that goes around the rear of the cowling. Roden have moulded it, but it is very faint. I ran a strip of plasticard around, and once it has set I will sand it back a little as it is now too prominent. I find it is easier to do it this way than to try and glue a very thin plastic strip on. For some reason Roden moulded the tailplane as if the middle was part of the fuselage, with 2 separate 'planes' attached to it. It isn't. It's a one piece unit. I sanded the ridges down and also filled the deep channels in it. On the left corrected, on the right as it comes in the kit. The 'Axle wing' needs attention as well. The split panel line and clamps need to come off. They were on the Fokker D.VII, but not the Dr.1 Triplane. I will sand and fill to fix this. Finally, some of the interior elements ready for priming and painting. I show them here as some of them are assembled from more than one piece, such as the rear wall with seat brackets attached. Gluing them together now saves mucking up the paintwork if you try to do it later. If you have a Roden Dr.1 in the stash, why not build it now? Thanks for looking. John
  18. Here's my recently completed Roden Holt tractor with the 8" howitzer. Model Cellar will have the driver available in September with three choices of headgear. The figure was sculpted by Mike Good. Weathering on the tractor with Ammo and MIG products. Ammo Moss Green and Vallejo Bronze Green were my base colors.
  19. “The sound of bullets tearing through canvas, wood, and metal; the young pilot’s heart thumps in his chest. That last burst missed his goggled helmet by mere inches. He desperately throws the control column left and right, presses the rudder bar with all his waning strength, but his attacker is in a far better machine and is far more experienced. The enemy stays doggedly on his tail, hurling more lead at his machine. As the fight gets lower and lower, he prays that his luck holds out. Tearing canvas, water pouring from the holed radiator, a stuttering engine and the smell of fuel indicate that his trusty steed is mortally wounded. The fight is over. Finding the nearest clearing, the young pilot throws the groaning machine to the earth. It rumbles along the rough ground, now under its own control. Knowing he is now a passenger along for the ride, the young pilot tightens his shoulder harness in preparation for the inevitable sudden stop. His craft lurches of the bank of a small river, it’s shark-like nose ending its days unceremoniously dumped into the muddy water. The young pilot is dazed, but alive. What was terror now turns to anger with the release of the tension. He tears of his goggles, throws his harness off, and climbs onto the spine of his machine to take stock of his luck. As his victor flies over the scene, waggling his wings, the young pilot hurls his fist at the enemy; “You win this time”, he screams. He may have been vanquished, but he has lived to fight another day”. Hi all – I hope you don’t mind the melodramatic start to the post! This rough idea is the back story behind my latest completion, a small crash diorama based on the 1/48 scale Eduard Albatros DVa. This is a project that I’ve had in mind since way back in 2006 when I first saw Stan Stokes’ painting called “Gotcha”: This was my first time at modelling terrain, and modelling water. I made plenty of mistakes (many of them are obvious) but it was a good learning experience. The aircraft itself was modified to incorporate battle damage, in order to help tell some of the story.! The aircraft personal and unit markings are fictional, but broadly represent markings of the mid 1918 period. I included a four-leaf clover motif on the fuselage to help with the idea that the pilot’s luck has held out. The pilot is a modified figure using various bits and pieces I had in the spares box. I gave him a set of goggles that he’s holding in his left hand. I am definitely NOT a figure painter, as you can see Progress pictures of all aspects of the build are in the following threads: https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=10149.0 https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235052386-vanquished/ Anyway, here are some more pictures: I welcome all feedback – as I said, this was my first time tackling terrain and water effects, so I’m sure there are plenty of tips out there that you all can give me. Cheers! BC
  20. Trying to finish some half-started projects. This vignette was supposed to be for the Great War GB last year but I got distracted. The gunner is one of the figures in the old Tamiya LRDG truck kit with a head from the Dragon Monte Casino figure set. Arms re-positioned so he's firing up. The Dragon heads are very lifelike. The Lewis gun and ammo box are Resicast. The spotter is an ICM figure from their WW1 ANZAC set, also with a Dragon head and re-positioned arms. I have a few sets of the ICM WW1 figure sets and they are all really good. The pit/base is a hogged out piece of pine with acrylic medium and grit gooped on.
  21. Albatros's or Albatri? As ever, all comments welcome. Sweaty
  22. Here is my attempt at a build log of the Hobby Boss Voltaire. Have had lots of probs trying to upload photos but have just finished my new Flickr account so let's have a go (please excuse my lack of photographic ability!) Hooray! Just a test piece of hull assembled, now more pics to hopefully bring me up to date with my build... Hull reinforcements. ... Hull strakes, sed painters masking tape and 4 coats of plastic primer... In the mean time blast bags using pva. . Worked to a degree but lacked the detail I wanted, good for smaller scales but think I'll go back to sculpting them in future. Bits in preparation for painting Oooooh, colour... Hull painted with Tamiya acrylics Oops! Deck painted and dry fitted Ready for post shading, oil washes and highlighting And finally some various oil washes using mixtures of burnt umber, raw Sienna, yellow ochre and white. This is just the first stage of weathering so will keep you posted as I go along. Many thanks for looking!
  23. Hello all! Thought I'd share my build of the Voltaire, just love these old battlewagons! Am already some way down the road with this build and have been encouraged to share (thanks Michael!). Have taken some piccies as I went but am no great photographer! Anyhoo, here we go... http://s1255.photobucket.com/user/zoopher53/media/Mobile Uploads/2019-01/PSX_20190123_083732_zpsno90tdsr.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0 Hull strengthening strakes made of evergreen strip. Not sure if photo will upload so this is a test Awww nuts......
  24. Here’s a Spin Bristol I finished a couple of years ago. Finished in my interruption of PC12 and light blue used in the Near East.
  25. This is my build of the Hobby Boss SMS Seydlitz. For Some reason this kit has largely been ignored by the aftermarket manufacturers. There is now an imminent release of a full detail upgrade set from Infini, but this was not available at the time I started this build. A a result this is almost a straight box build with Infini mast replacements and the gorgeous Scaledecks laminate decks. An unusual looking ship, and that was the attraction along with the prominent red rear funnel. This is a selection of pictures of the build so far... [ Jase
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