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  1. I built this model several years ago and finally girded myself to finish the rigging yesterday. It's my first Wingnut Wings kit and I loved every minute of building it. I used the resin conversion kit from Encore to modify the cockpit. I think it was designed for the Roden kit but it seemed to fit really well on this. The decals and resin figure were from the same Encore package. The colour is too dark and I won't show you the bottom because of rigging glue mess 😬 I also chickened out of using double wires. But it's the most complicated rigging I've done yet and was great practice for an MVR Albatross that's on the block next.
  2. Sopwith Pub RFC The kit is WNW. Scale 1/32. As usual a good kit, an instruction with some weird instruction steps. So I had to memorize it and built it straight way. The rigging was no problem at all, since we developed a good technique already. You can find all in the forum anyway. In summery it took me 2 months beside my job. Happy modelling
  3. The kit is WNW. Scale 1/32. As usual a good kit, an instruction with some weird instruction steps. So I had to memorize it and built it straight way. The rigging was no problem at all, since we developed a good technique already. You can find all in the forum anyway. In summery it took me 2 months beside my job. Happy modelling
  4. The kit is WNW. Scale 1/32. As usual a good kit, an instruction with some weird instruction steps. So I had to memorize it and built it straight way. The rigging was no problem at all, since we developed a good technique already. You can find all in the forum anyway. The painting is from the Russian Civil War. In summery it took me 2 months beside my job. Happy modelling
  5. The kit is WNW. Scale 1/32. As usual a good kit, an instruction with some weird instruction steps. So I had to memorize it and built it straight way. The rigging was no problem at all, since we developed a good technique already. You can find all in the forum anyway. The painting is from the Russian Civil War. In summery it took me 2 months beside my job. Happy modelling
  6. Albatros D.V (QD32085 for Wingnut Wings) 1:32 Quinta Studios When Quinta’s innovative products first came to our attention, they caused quite a stir, as well they should. The replacement Instrument Panels and internal details are mind-boggling to look at, because we’re used to seeing simplified styrene instrument panels, or Photo-Etch Brass panels with either two layers of etch, or laminated parts that can be tricky to glue together, even if they are pre-painted for your ease. But decals? These aren’t your run-of-the-mill decals though, they’re 3D printed in many layers and colours on a flat carrier film, having as much in the way of elevation as is needed to complete a realistic panel printed in the correct colours, complete with shiny dial faces and metallic-effect hardware, and often including cushions and seat belts in the set. Each set arrives in a Ziploc bag with a folded instruction booklet protecting the decals, which are also separately bagged, so they should reach you in good condition. The pictorial instructions are printed on glossy paper, and are shown in full colour as befits the awesomeness of the sets, showing exactly where each part should go on the actual model, so there’s no confusion due to the “pictures speak a thousand words” maxim. Additional hints and instructions are also included, marking out parts needing bases, kit parts that are used or replaced and other useful tips. The technical instructions in the text-based, giving additional tips to the new user about maximising adhesion and preventing lift at the edges by wicking in super glue. Although you are advised to use Super Glue (CA) to attach the decals to the surface permanently, preparation is much the same as your standard decal, but you will need to remove any raised detail that would be underneath the location depicted in the instructions, and some new parts will need small backing panels or bases on which to apply the decal. A slim piece of sheet styrene would perform that task, and painting the edges a matching colour should minimise its appearance or turn it completely invisible. This set is patterned for the Wingnut Wings Albatros D.V, and is probably the only aftermarket these kits could want or need. The set comprises two sheets of decals, starting with a rear bulkhead that has a choice of linen or lozenge-coloured covers; instruments and compass for the simple panels of the day; key-like switches on the panel; a length of bead or chain and a dial for the right sidewall; a set of detailed four-point harnesses for the pilot, and an exquisite button-quilted cushion for his seat that has just the perfect amount of shine to represent leather; realistic wood pattern and textured floor panel; two wood effect panels for either side of the engine block; details for the ammo feeds and tanks inside the fuselage; a substantial number of raised inspection hatches for the exterior of the fuselage, wings and the aerofoil between the wheels, all of which will improve an already excellent model substantially. Conclusion The detail on the parts is incredible, down to the stiffening around pass-throughs, the dials, that seat, and overall impressive crispness of the set. This WWI cockpit is open to the air, which is just the ticket to show off the superb details. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  7. Hallo WNW Information on this kit This is my second WW1 bomber in 1/32. The AEG was my first. Considering all my 1/32 builds from WNW I did, so this one caused me some more headache as I was used. The building process showed me, that there are some issues where I think the designer of the kit was absent. The cooling pipes running from the engine to the cooler at the front strut are wrong in transverse distance. You must cut them, otherwise the strut would crack. The other thing is many important details are not shown at all in the instructions. Instead of this the guns are shown multiple times. The pivot point of the rudder is such an item. On the other hand the outer struts. They have cables running vertically twice, in the front and rear. What for? There is no explanation in the instruction. For lighting or Bowden cables. If the latter, then for assembly or disassembly the wing. If you decide to make such a model, be sure that you are firm with all rigging techniques required. I did it, as you can find on my threats. Already posted couple of times. Well, the next time will be a modelling break for one month. Since I will be engaged with my digital model railway in H0, where most locomotives are upgraded with sound. Some programing is needed and some mapping of functions too. Happy modelling Happy New Year 2022
  8. Hallo This is my attempt of getting the paint scheme of the Halberstadt CL.II right done. The photos from the original in the museum in Krakow I use as a guideline. The proposal from WNW is spraying with reduced air pressure. So you create a circular pattern, instead of an irregular pattern. Since the cowling is missing, I think to do it in analogy to the Fokker E1 with aluminum coat and the pattern as shown. I am not sure, but in the web I found nothing to relay on. Archive photos and the original in Krakow are my only holdings. Anyway the model is complete with all the interior. The instruction is as usual in WNW. Some errors in numbering, corrected on their website. The steps of assembling sometimes impossible, but since I know the models and their mistakes I get along. Well so far, any suggestions? Happy modelling
  9. An odd title, you may think. It's inspired by the car stickers one used to see, usually on decaying old rust-buckets, that stated "My other car is a Ferrari/Rolls-Royce/Cadillac/" etc. Anyway, I had a Wingnut Sopwith Pup, a figure by Elan13 of an RFC pilot called "Henry" who is depicted holding a small spaniel-type dog, and a career that involved working and living in Gosport for nearly 10 years, and all this came together in this model. The subject is a Sopwith Pup from the School of Special Flying, Gosport, where Major Robert Smith-Barry developed a system of flying training that produced far better results than previously, and is basically still in use world-wide to this day. The markings are an option in the "Gnome" boxing of WNW's Pup, although I only used the fuselage roundels, serials, prop logo and instruments from the kit decal sheet: everything else was masked and painted. Anyway, without further ado, here's Henry "Sorry old boy, even at my rank I'm not allowed to take you flying" Forgive me for having a play with some effects in one or two of these photos: Thanks for looking. Comments and any suggestions for improvement welcome.
  10. Hallo This is my next project. The funny looking RE.8 from WNW. Since this model requires some skill for rigging, it is the perfect challenge for me. I did already the R.A.F. B.E.2c in 1/48 some time ago. Anyway, I am looking forward what this build will offer to me. In any case, I like this challenge in rigging. The DH 2 from WNW is ahead (from Roden already done) and also the Bristol Fighter. The Fe.2b is already done. You can see it under RIP some time ago. Happy modelling
  11. Hallo This is one of my British a/c from WW1 from WNW. As for so many kits from WNW, the instruction is not quite accurate. The same will accompany now at the next build, the RE.8 and afterward the F2b Bristol Fighter. You may also have a look on my WIP. All insignia are sprayed. Happy Modelling
  12. Hallo This is my next (after many) WNW kit. The Dh 9a is a quite big and powerful a/c. Well, I built so far quite straight from the box. Seatbelts are waiting for tomorrow. Nothing special. As you see, I lost one dial. It is replaced in meantime. Happy modelling
  13. Hallo Now I finished my Dolphin. The rigging was unspectacular. One of the holes in the struts to get the struts rigged, vanished due to plastic glue. But in general nice built. See my WIP. Next will be the DH 9a from WNW. Happy modelling
  14. Hallo Yesterday I had a nightmare with my new ICM Ju-88 kit. All wrong to the outmost and awful engineered. After this shock, I took a deep breath and considered what to do next! I decided to take any Wing Nut Wing in my shelf. I have enough at my storage, including a Gotha, which I may get at my birthday, as far as my wife keeps her promise. So it will be the Dolphin. Nice kit, nice working and today I did plastic work. Tomorrow I have to spray. I am not sure about doing the internal rigging or not. I am little afraid to destroy or weaken the framework when drilling 0,3 mm. Well, for spraying I want to make masks and to try to avoid decals. At least for roundels. We will see. Happy modelling
  15. This is my first WnW I'm losing the will to live ! Every time I get close to posting submission it all gets lost!!!!! Above the obnoxious join. The rear cockpit spit in two down the midline. The whole of the wood grain area sanded back and restarted. A new wood varnish applied, watercolour pencils Tamya clear orange. The rest of the inside was completed. And then joined. With masking tape in place to complete the exterior of the nacelle but with a bit of imagination and the previous photos you can imagine the result OK in my eyes.
  16. A Wingnut Wings WWI aircraft build is always a cosmic nirvana modeling experience. This is my fourth WNW build, the excellent two seater Roland C.IIa "late", also known as the "Whale". My wife gave me this gift about six years ago for Xmas so she was especially enthusiastic and supportive during this build. She picked the kit out for me because she thought it was "cute", lucky for me her "cute" = my "awesome"! Other than EZ line and Bob's Buckles for rigging, it's pretty much OOB. Tamiya acrylic paints were used per the instructions except for a slight amount of Alclad aluminum and brass in the engine area. I built version 'A' of the kit's five options, ("Kasta 2/ Kogohl 1, 1917) in which WNW guessed at some color and feature aspects so I deviated a little here and there. As always with WNW, everything fit perfectly and the finished product comes out much better than my skills should allow. Too bad WNW shut down. Despite the crazy price escalation of these kits on eBay, I refuse to not build the remaining WNW kits in my stash. Life is too short and I'd rather have a bunch of dusty built models than unbuilt $$$ kits when I'm too blind and feeble to even separate the parts from the runners or spend the money on other things that wouldn't be as fun (other than good Irish Whiskey 😁). Cheers, John
  17. Hi folks, first for a while... Thanks for looking, J.A.
  18. This was a pure pleasure from start to finish. I used the recent MVR boxing for this build and one of the schemes from the kit. It's rigged with ezline without turnbuckles. The plywood was my favourite part, I sprayed the panels three different acrylic colours, then used thinned oil paints to wiggle the grain on. It's the first ww1 airplane model I've done that I haven't been embarrassed to show the underside. I'll post more pictures of the figure in the Figure modelling section.
  19. I just finished building a Wingnut Wings Albatross and this resin figure was included in the kit. Mike Good, wow, what a sculptor. I made a little hat for him out of green stuff and styrene. Painted with vallejo acrylics with oils on the jacket and boots. The base is meant to reference German WW1 laminated propellers, I made it from yew and pine.
  20. I'm hoping one of you smart folks can help me understand a fit problem on the Wingnut Wings MVR kit. It seems that the photoetch seatbelts in this box are quite different from those in the other boxings. The cross belt is so high that the ends can't reach their mounts on the rear bulkhead. In other kits the cross belt is much lower. Page 5 of the kit instructions show no cross belt on the shoulder belt assembly. So should I cut out the offending belt section and replace with masking tape? Or should I relocate the mounting holes on the bulkhead? I've emailed WNW but was hoping to work on this this weekend.
  21. I started with painting the fuselage CDL bits. I`ve sprayed them with XF-57 mixed with brown and white, in order to make them less uniform. I`ve also tried something new - I wanted to give the texture to the painted CDL, so using the crayons I`ve simulated the fabric weave.
  22. I am building a WnW USAS Camel with the 160 HP engine and am getting to the end of painting. I thought this would be a simple question to answer, but I can't figure out where the exhaust (and the associated staining) for a rotary engine should go. I know the whole engine rotates, so I assume the exhaust just blows straight into the engine bay, but where does it go? Looking at the cowl there are two square ports that could be vents other wise there is the large hole at the bottom. This is a first WW1 build for me, so any advice from the Britmodeller community would be great. Many Thanks Yeoman
  23. Hallo again This is my Albatros in 1/32: Happy modelling
  24. Hallo again Here is my LVG C.VI in 1/32 Happy modelling
  25. Hallo again This is my Fokker E IV. In scale 1/32 from WNW. Happy modelling
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