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Found 17 results

  1. Pilot Replicas is back and has just released a 1/48th Volvo TL-12 Startbil 954 support truck resin kit. Sources: https://www.pilot-replicas.com/collections/resin-vehicles/products/volvo-tl-12-startbil-954 Frankly, I would have preferred the looong, looong time promised 1/48th Saab Sk.60/105 kit. 😉 link V.P.
  2. SK-37E Stör-Viggen Electronic Warfare Aggressor (SH48150) 1:48 Special Hobby The Viggen is a rugged fighter/interceptor that was designed to fulfil a need during the deep Cold War to defend Swedish airspace in the event of an incursion by the Soviet Bloc, and to continue the fight from hidden bases near roadways, which the aircraft could use as makeshift landing strips. It was to replace both the Lansen and Draken, and did so extremely well, endearing itself to aviation enthusiasts as it did so due to its unusual double-delta/canard configuration. It was fitted with a single Volvo license built P&W JT8D with an afterburner to give it the performance needed to propel this large aircraft fast enough to accomplish short take-offs. Short landings were made possible by the inclusion of a set of large thrust reversing petals that dropped into the exhaust trunking and expelled the gases forward from slots in the side of the fuselage. The initial AJ37 variant was declared operational in 1972, and required the addition of a trainer variant, dubbed the SK37, which had an additional cockpit placed high above the original, displacing some fuel tankage in the process. The final JA37 variant was brought into service in 1980 with new computer systems, improved radar and engine, as well as other systems and the strength of the airframe, which already utilised titanium to reduce weight. The SK-37E was developed from a group of 10 airframes that were converted from trainers to Electronic Warfare trainers in the late 1990s, but were phased out after a relatively short service life in 2007. The last of the operational Viggens (Thunderbolt) were retired in 2005, replaced by the impressive JAS39 Gripen (Griffon). A number of Viggens are on display in museums – notably Newark in the UK, but the Swedes have retained one in flying condition that can sometimes be seen at British airshows along with a Draken, Lansen and even the Tunnan. If only every country was conscientious in preservation of its aviation history. The Kit The main tooling that this kit originated from is the collaborative effort between Special Hobby and Tarangus in 2014, which has been re-issued a few times over the years in single-seat guise, either with new decals or additional parts to represent other variants. This is the first major additional tooling from them, and thanks to their efforts, we now have a genuine 2-seater with no scratch-building involved. Marvellous! I do love the Viggen, in case you didn't know. The new parts include a new fuselage insert that replaces the single-seat part, which is also still on the sprues due to being surrounded by common parts. Another cockpit tub and instrument panel are also on the sprue, with appropriate glazing parts included on a small clear sprue. In the box you get nine sprues of grey styrene, two of clear parts, a fret of pre-painted Photo-Etch (PE) brass that has also been nickel-plates, a sheet of decals and a glossy colour printed instruction booklet with integrated colour and markings guide at the rear. The original tooling has been picked over ad infinitum in the intervening years, and although it has a few minor issues, they're by no means a deal breaker, and when you consider the alternatives… well there are none in this scale if you want two seats! With one seat, you have the ancient Airfix ESCI mould that is a blank canvas with some serious shape issues and almost no detail out of the box. The inclusion of Photo-Etch parts in the box is great news, even though the moulded-in cockpit detail is good, you can always improve on it with resin or PE. Even removing my rose tinted Viggen love spectacles, I'm still very happy with what's in the box. Construction begins with the ejection seats, which you build two of (unsurprisingly), and here there are a few small PE parts and a set of painted PE seatbelts for the crew, plus the anti-flail projections from the sides of the seat box. The two cockpit tubs are identical in terms of detail, but have slightly different shapes due to their location in the fuselage, and build up with either the moulded-in console detail, or the PE replacements, which are also pre-painted, for which you have to scrape and sand off the moulded-in detail. The same applies to the instrument panels, only they have a substantially different structure, due to the rear seat being the Electronic Warfare equipment, with a large projection at the top of the panel, and a limited set of dials due to a lack of available real-estate. The control columns and rudder pedals are fitted in both tubs, with PE replacements for the rudder pedals if you remove some of the detail from the originals. Before the cockpits are installed, the interior of the fuselage insert is painted and sidewall detail is attached to the pilot's (front) station, with a short blast screen fitted to the front of the rear aperture. The cockpits in their fuselage part are then set to the side while the lower nose is prepared with the nose gear bay, the APU bay installed, and the intake trunks with front engine face is built up from the split trunking that separates horizontally, joining just in front of the engine against a bulkhead, with the engine face buried deep in the fuselage, and probably only just visible. Whether you hide the seams between the two halves of the trunking is entirely up to you, but after the first kink very little will be seen. If you're a bit obsessive about that sort of thing, someone has already done a resin replacement set anyway. The trunking is applied to the bottom fuselage half, and the upper fuselage with cockpits is fixed to the top, with a bulkhead inserted at the nose end for structural strength. Attention turns to the rear fuselage, which must have the substantial exhaust trunk, thrust reversing petals and rear engine face built up and painted first. The first section is a single part with the engine and burner ring moulded-in, to which you fit another ring that holds the three thrust-reversing petals, the top-most of which is usually seen drooped into the airway on a parked aircraft due to the bleed-away of hydraulic pressure. They can be posed open or closed, and the instructions mention the droop perhaps a little late in the process. A scrap diagram shows the correct orientation of the burner in the fuselage, and with the reversers installer the exterior cowling is added at the rear. This forms the aft section of the fuselage once it is integrated in the rear fuselage, which closes up around it and is then mated to the front section, with the full-width wing lowers also added to the underside after the main gear bays are inserted. The upper wings are separate parts, as is the tail fin, of which there are quite a number of variants on the sprues, so be sure to choose the correct one. The nose cone is built from two parts and added, while the intakes are each a single part, which has a strut added to brace them against the fuselage side. Clear nav lights are fitted outboard of the last sweep change and on the wing tips, and another is added to the spine, with a small insert near the tail glued into place at the same time. You now have an almost complete airframe, so by now you'll realise that the Viggen was no small aircraft. The landing gear is built up from a number of parts that give a good account of the detail there, with separate oleo-scissors and retraction struts, separate wheels, bay doors and their retraction mechanisms, and those large rough-field ready main gear legs that seem to have struts all over the place. The main wheels are made from two halves each, and the complete assemblies are added to the bays in great detail on the instructions, shown with the captive main bay door added at this point. The inner bay doors have their jacks too, and the completed main gear area is shown in another diagram to confirm everything's position in situ. The inner bay doors can be shown retracted by cutting off the attachment lugs, so check your references and decide which pose you'd prefer. The small air-brakes on the underside are added closed, but you can leave them open, but you would need to add some extra detail so it's best to leave them closed as they would be that way on the ground for much of the time unless you buy the resin detail set. You Viggen wouldn't look much like a Christmas tree without the canards up front, and these have separate flaps to the rear like the real thing, which can be posed at an angle, or in line with airflow at your whim. Whilst you're still looking at the underside, some intakes, centre pylons and additional fuel tanks are added, with little else needed, as this variant wasn't flown as a fighter-bomber. On the topside, a number of vents, intakes, more airbrakes and aerials finish off the topside, and the APU is fitted to the open bay, captive to the door. Unless you are planning on modelling your Viggen in flight, you will want this dangling freely in the breeze, as it would deploy automatically on the ground. The canopies are the last parts of the saga, and of course there are now three parts; the fixed windscreen and two openers, which can be posed open or closed. A pair of rear-view mirrors are supplied on the PE sheet for the windscreen, as is a PE HUD frame, which you'll need to add your own acetate to, although you are at least given the sizing in another scrap diagram. At the bottom of that final page of instructions, you can find a small advert for the resin aftermarket sets available from their CMK brand, which includes M/70 rocket pods, ejection seats, thrust reverser petals, air-brakes and their bays, as well as resin wheels. They all look VERY tempting. Markings There are four decal options available from the decal sheet, which are split equally between grey and splinter camouflage. Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. The profiles on the first page of the decal instructions throw a little confusion on the subject, as the red lightning bolt on the tail of red 73 has been left off. SK-37E Viggen 21-73 (37811) 1 Div./Wing F21 Lulea-Kallax 2005 SK-37E Viggen FC-09 (37809) Försökcentralen (Centre of Experimental Research) Malmen Airbase 2005-7 SK-37E Viggen 4-70 (37807) TIS/TK Grupp (Type Conversion /Electronic Warfare Group), Wing F4, Östersund 2004 SK-37E Viggen 4-74 (37811) TIS/TK Grupp Wing F4 Östersund 2000 The easy options are the grey ones, but the most impressive are the splinter patterns, which I believe you can obtain masks for from a company somewhere. I have an old set knocking about, but as they're for a single-seater, I'll be painting this one grey. There's still lots of opportunity for weathering, as the aircraft were often see needing a good wash, with plenty of patina to whet your appetite for painting and weathering effects. You might have noticed that option A has a panel on the spine that has clearly been taken from a splinter camouflaged aircraft, and hasn't yet been repainted. Conclusion The Viggen is a huge, impressive-looking Cold War warrior that has a special place in my heart. The new 2-seater kit fills my need that has been previously unsatisfied for many years. Detail is good, the inclusion of a large sheet of PE and excellent decals into the bargain makes this a must-have as far as I'm concerned. If you like Viggens too, then make sure you get one. Very very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  3. This is one I started back in 2010. It's by Airtrax, and is moulded in resin. Tyres, suspension or glass are not included, although wheel covers of the correct design are provided. Photos of the kit parts themselves are here (not my pics - I had already made a start before it occurred to me to photograph them I'm using an Airfix (ex Aoshima) 1:24 MGB as the parts donor since the MG's 14" wheels at 1:24 are close enough to 15" at 1:25. The track is also the same, so most of the suspension parts etc can also be used. No doubt, the headlights and other small detail parts will also end up being used too. Headlights (both bowls / surrounds and lenses) are included in the kit, however I don't use alclad, just BMF or a Molotow Chrome pen & so will use the spare MG ones, with Molotow & BMF for other parts and detailing. My overall impressions of the kit are very positive - yes, some cleanup of the parts is required, and there are a few air bubbles that need filling, but no more than expected based on the description from Airtrax. The parts are all well moulded, with lots of detail with all badging on the body, and the dash is especially detailed. Now for the donor parts - the MG kit front suspension is close enough to the Volvo setup, so is being used pretty much as is but will have a few cosmetic tweaks to better represent the design of the Volvo crossmember. However, at the rear the MG is cart springs, whereas the Volvo is upper and lower trailing arms with coil springs and a panhard rod. The MG axle and hubs will still be used, but I will need to fabricate the rest of the suspension components. Wire wheels were a period optional fitment for P1800s, so I may keep those. If not, they may be hollowed out to accept the standard wheel covers as supplied in the kit unless I decide to turn something up on the centre lathe at work. Anyhow, enough talk – here’s the pics... An early shot, whilst still cleaning up the shell, and tweaking the fit of the chassis. Also in process of finalising the position of the wheels: Pretty much sorted - also added a section at the bulkhead to represent a box section that is there on the real car, and also to overhang & thus hide the join between body & chassis: (Also in the middle of cutting away the back of the finely moulded grille) Underside is well moulded too: Grille surround in place - this and the immediately following pics show the grille aperture cut away (compare to the very first pic - the original molding was solid all the way back to level with the front of the radiator): The front of the radiator (part of the chassis) has the appropriate detail moulded into it, so combined with the opened up grille, it seemed a pity not to show it. Front suspension - springs have been added, and there are now metal rod pins to locate & set the alignment of the crossmember (it needs to be removable, for a lot of further detailing to better represent the Volvo unit & then painting): The steering is incorrect too, as it still has the MG's rack & pinion, whereas the Volvo used a steering box with idler & linkages, which also need to be fabricated Crossmember as visible from the engine bay - the hollow top will be blanked off, and engine mountings then added. ON the real car, the top wishbone mounts are highly visible in the engine bay (those bushes are actually changed from under the bonnet!) so that needs detailing too. Rear suspension - the rear remainder of the leaf springs will be removed once the axle location is fixed, and has further location. The front part of the leaf springs will be remodelled into the lower trailing arm. Started fabricating the rear shocks (location point on the body was marked in the moulding) & just need to sort out the axle bracket now before the rear brake / hub assemblies can be glued in place properly: Front and side glass is in place - just need to sort out the rear window, but in the meantime, here's a view of the very nicely moulded dashboard: I must confess that I have done little since this stage except buy more Airtrax kits... In the to build pile I also have their Volvo Amazon saloon, Volvo Amazon estate (I provided them with reference data & also feedback on the masters for that one, and will be building it as a replica of my 1:1 Amazon estate), Jaguar Mk10, Volvo 142 and Triumph TR6. My excuse is that I am taking my time to build up my skills in order to build it to the standard and detail that I want. I would say this that this is also because it is my first resin kit, but that isn't strictly true as I built a 1:43 Alpine A110 by Starter when I was about 17 (Christmas present from my father, along with a custom mixed spray can of the correct Alpine blue 😎), but that was like painting and assembling a diecast model compared to this. Anyhow, now that I have posted about the P1800, hopefully it will guilt trip me into actually making further progress.
  4. This is another one that I completed ten years ago. The parts fit was typically Tamiya but the decals had gone a bit iffy with many breaking up when applied. Most I was able to realign, but the one for the tinted band at the top of the windscreen was totally unuseable. I think that this and the BTCC one have never been reissued so it must have been about fifteen years old at the time as the Turbo was very soon rebadged as the T5. And with the BTCC version that I built as a teenager - this is the oldest model kit that I still have, and I think I built it in either '95 or '96. Annoyingly these kits are now very difficult to get hold of, and I do hope that Tamiya will reissue them, as I'd love to build another BTCC one and also use the road car as a basis for a yellow T5R 😎
  5. Hi, This is my work this year. I builded without big accessories, only clean box with small accessories. I only used HGW safety belts and a back seat from the old jeans. Bleached car spray - acrylic paint and at the end 4 layers of Polish lacquer with UV filter.
  6. Hello all, On request from Poul and Rich, I’m posting a WIP on my Pocher F12 engine duobuild. The build has been stalled for about 6 months mainly due to other builds getting my full attention. But I need to continue work on these as the parts take up a lot of real estate space in my work area, as you will soon notice. A colleague had acquired this kit but he isn’t a modeler so he asked me to build it for him. As I had the same kit in my stash as well, I started both kits simultaneously, as I would otherwise probably not build my own kit anytime soon. I also thought that it wouldn’t take that much more work to build two identical kits (or so I believed…I’d soon find out how wrong I was). Here are some pics of the kit and the parts. Some of these parts are really massive….
  7. Thought I will make the Volvo I used to own out of the Tamiya model kit. The saloon body was from a partly assembled model bought on ebay. The interior is bought as spares also on ebay. The major work including modifying the bumper donated from another preciously assembled estate version, scratch build the rear spoiler and head lamp wash wipe, manual gear knob, cut out the sun roof, cut and stick a right hand drive dashboard and modify the wipers to right hand drive version. The paint is automotive spray paint in 604 Midnight Blue. Please excuse the quality of the model, I'm still a novice so the paint work isn't perfect as you can see. Thanks for watching.
  8. Volvo FL Fire Engine, pics thanks to Rich.
  9. The New Volvo FH Tractor Unit, pics by Rich Ellis 4 x 4 Showing location of Ad Blue tank.
  10. Hi all, I have recently found this site as I was looking for advice on using a new airbrush kit that I have recently acquired. With the gratefully received advice I have been given, I now know how to add photos so thought I would show my latest creation (see below, I hope!). I hope you guys don't think I'm a fraud as I don't actually build the model from scratch, but strip down and re-paint (if necessary) before applying decals to make an authentic replica. I hope this works and I hope you like! mad4bmws
  11. Some detail shots of a Volvo FH Heavy Haulage Tractor unit.
  12. Pictures of a UK spec, early FH16 4x2 tractor unit.
  13. Pictures of a preserved Volvo F7 4x2 tractor with a sleeper cab.
  14. Volvo G88 6x4 tractor NOTE, The G88 has a set forward front axle.
  15. Volvo F10, 1991 model 4x2 with rear air suspension.
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