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  1. I'm a bit late to the party because my mental health has (for some reason) put me off posting, although it hasn't put me off actual modelling. I've seen that @Six97s is also doing a build of this kit. Although I'm not a massive Volkswagen fan I've got a soft spot for the Scirocco, particularly in later Mk1 form. This kit looks like it is an early Mk1 example, which is something I didn't even know existed until I started looking into the history of the real car (at some point Volkswagen facelifted the Scirocco with wraparound front indicators and more of a front air dam). This is the kit as it arrived last year. A closer look at the parts, the kit was part started, but all of that work needed undoing. Laying the parts out for inspection. The engine was glued together very badly but I managed to get most of it apart. Tyres, decals and axles. Parts still on the sprue. This is the majority of the racing parts, which won't be used in this build. Shiny bits. It's great that AMT provided two-part seats, less so that someone glued them together like this! First stage was to assemble all the body panels as it seemed better to get all these together and fitted neatly before painting. There were a few sink marks that needed filling and some faint seam lines to remove. I also decided to remove the US-specification side marker lights from the body moulding. Some Halfords filler primer was used to help tidy up the corners although the crease in the wings is now not quite as sharp as it probably should be. I debated going with a metallic blue of green but that wouldn't be right for this age of Scirocco, so I decided to stick with red, hence the red primer. The colour call outs also recommend "brick red" for the interior carpet and parcel shelf, so I'll leave those in the primer finish. Primer, incidentally, is Halfords red plastic primer. The part of any car build that I find most difficult is getting a decent paint finish, so that needs to be my focus before I get distracted by too much of the engine or interior build.
  2. Hi all, I am calling this done, it was a fun subject to start the New Year. I scratch built the part that dropped off the car when Charlie drove it back home. Thanks for looking in on this build guys. Finally, if you want to see the work in progress of this build, click the link below.
  3. Hi fellow model fanatics, this is just a fun quick build to start the New Year. I used the engine from this kit last year to put into my Mad Max 2 Gyrocopter diorama. So, this is my way of using up the remaining kit parts. I found the figure on eBay; it needed the girl's hair lengthening to look more like the movie actress. She will be sitting on the Beetle, in a beach scene.
  4. Kübelwagen Typ.82 Platinum Edition (03500) 1:9 Revell Hitler and Nazi Germany have a strong connection to the Volkswagen Beetle, as it was their wish (read: demand) to have a “people’s car” that could be bought cheaply and run affordably by the workers to mobilise the masses. Volkswagen literally means people’s car, and the design of the vehicle was carried out by Ferdinand Porsche of post war sports car fame. The original Beetle was very similar to the one we all know from the 50s onward, although there were some differences that become quite obvious when viewed side-by-side. The design-work of the Beetle was used to a great extent in the creation of the militarised light transport, which started as the Typ.62, and morphed into the Typ.82 after the kinks were ironed out following testing during the invasion of Poland. The minimum speed was reduced to match the 4mph pace of marching soldiers, the already adequate off-road performance of this two-wheel drive car was improved further by the installation of a limited-slip differential, changes to hub gearing and the suspension, which coupled with the light weight of the vehicle itself gave it excellent off-road characteristics comparable with a 4x4 of the time. The design went into full-scale production almost unchanged from the revised specification, and stayed that way throughout the war, with only small changes such as a more powerful 1.3L engine and a larger dash to set the post 1943 vehicles apart from the earlier production cars. It was well-liked, reliable and capable, with over 50,000 made during the war. The amphibious Schwimmwagen was developed from the Typ.82, using much of the running gear of the 4x4 Command Car, but very little of the bodywork, as its shape was unsuited to travelling through water. After the war, the basics of the Kübelwagen were recycled as the angular Typ.181 in military service, known as the Trekker in the UK, and The Thing in the US. The Kit This is a reboxing of a 70s era ESCI kit, but before you run off screaming that it’s old and unbuildable, take a few minutes to read this review, because not only is the moulding really quite nice, but this is a Platinum boxing, and includes quite a quantity of additional parts that weren’t included in the original boxings all those years ago. I’ll be brutally honest, I expected a squishy moulding with soft detail and simplified parts, but there’s really none of that visible. A quick leaf through the instruction sheets for the Platinum parts inspires confidence that with these new parts, the kit has been brought up to pretty modern standards. It arrives in a large top-opening box, with a card insert to hold the new parts, and due to the enhanced part count and type, let’s put the contents in a tabular format. 10 x sprues in grey styrene 1 x sprue in black flexible plastic 1 x sprue of clear parts 5 x black flexible tyres 1 x length of black flexible tubing (approx. 1m) 2 x linear springs 2 x torsion springs 2 x metal rods 1 x Photo Etch brass fret with nickel plating 1 x Photo Etch brass fret 1 x sheet of pre-printed fabric to create the hood 1 x sheet of self-adhesive wood veneer 18 x turned brass parts for MG42 and vehicle fixtures 1 x instruction booklet 3 x sheets of glossy Platinum instructions Everything is individually bagged, including the Photo-Etch (PE), the brass parts, the veneer and the decals, with some serious detail included both in the original kit, and the extra parts that are present. Some real thought has been put into the design of the upgrade parts, targeting any areas where the detail is less impressive or soft, and using the scale thickness and sharpness of the PE to redress the issues. Incidentally, on my kit the flexible tubing was hidden trapped between two sections of the card insert, so check your box properly before you panic or recycle the card. My only qualm with the kit is that the instruction booklet covers construction of the original kit, which has been Revell-icised as much as possible, but doesn’t cater for the new parts. These are dealt with in the separate glossy pages, so there will be a bit of back-and-forth between the sections as you build the model, but on the upside, the new instructions are very well-done and provide you with all the information you need to upgrade the detail. The inclusion of a real material hood is an excellent addition, but it will take some care and skill to make it look suitably realistic without breaking any of the styrene framework during the fitting and tightening process. Construction begins with the engine, which is highly detailed, and has a lot of parts, including the piston barrels replete with the cooling fins that are very well executed. Time has really been kind to these moulds. The engine is a flat-four, and comes complete with separate cylinder cover clips and spark-plugs, with the stubby mufflers and exhausts slung underneath and the cooling tin-work around the cylinder blocks, plus more detail such as the dynamo, the distributor with its HT-leads simulated by 140mm lengths of tubing. The cooling fan with its vertical lobe of tin, and other ancillaries are fixed in place, and colour call-outs in Revell codes are given throughout the process. Moving to the front axle, the brake drums and suspension arms are made up with a double-rail between the two ends, and the steering box actually functional, which the instructions advise to lubricate with Vaseline during closure to ensure that the gears last the distance. This attaches to the top rail on a bracket, then has the steering arms clipped on with careful and selective gluing allowing the pivots to stay loose. The vehicle’s floor pan is moulded as a single part, thickened with inserts on the underneath and in the rear, which is then flipped over and has the gear stick and handbrake installed. There is a replacement brass gear lever and knob included here, which can replace the styrene parts, keeping the gaiter from the kit at the bottom end. Additionally, a lamination of nickel-plated PE and real wood veneer is inserted into the floor to provide the additional realism of duck-boards to the finished product. The frame under the A-pillar that surrounds the dash is begun next, with the instrument panel inserted along with a decal for the large central dial, then it is closed in by a clear lens. The two front seats are made up from their tubular frame, and have the flexible black plastic covers snapped closed over them, with one each for the driver and front passenger, augmented with a detailed set of textured PE straps across the rear, adding extra interest. These flexible parts seem like they would be a little reticent to hold paint, so check them out by performing a test on one of the inner surfaces so that you’re not wasting your time. The seats are attached to the floor with a pair of clips on each one, and the dashboard is glued into the front on pins, and has the pedal box inserted into the floor, with new pedals included on the PE sheets, made up from two layers that slot onto the levers and have a really nice chequered pattern etched-in that will be useful to create the appearance of wear by rubbing back the paint to expose the metal surface. The front axle is inserted into the front of the floorpan, and is linked to the brake drums by more of the flexible hosing of various lengths. The front bulkhead and the “frunk” are made up and joined to the floor, and the two-part steering column is joined around the T-shaped top of the box, and another T-shaped lower end of the cylindrical column that protrudes from the dashboard, which you are again advised to lubricate for longevity. The wing mirror on the left A-pillar is upgraded with a PE bracket that is made up from two parts plus a length of brass, replacing the more refined (and probably later) adjustment knuckle with a bracket. There is also a shiny circular piece of PE you can use as the mirror glass if you want to. The kit horn is replaced entirely by a turned body, PE diaphragm, and PE bracket with a PE bolt holding it in place, then the two front headlights are assembled with a clear lens covered by a two-part slit-cover to reduce backwash on the road during night driving. At the rear a new number-plate holder bracket is created from PE, and the Notek convoy light with its twin smiley faces and flaps that cover up the daylight lamps on the bottom, exposing the four distance marking lights on the top. On the real thing, you’ll see one light at 300m, two at 35m, and all four if you’re too close. The aim is to see two lights so you know you’re at the correct distance from the vehicle in front. All the bracketry is there, and the only missing part is the downward facing slot to illuminate the numberplate and the peg that allows it to be open or closed. All of these subassemblies are set aside for later installation on the vehicle during the final stages of the build. The sides of the body are prepared with internal structure, then the left front wing is fixed to the side and on the right-hand back seat floor the battery is assembled and strapped down before the right body panel is glued in place, but will need some wiring. The B-pillars are separate from the side panels, and have two hinge-points fixed to the outsides before they are glued into the body, as are the four wheel wells, with a scrap diagram showing the correct location of them all. There is a jerrycan included on the sprues that is shown in the frunk on the instructions, but the Platinum instructions show it inserted into a frame over the left rear wheel arch, which is folded up from PE and shown in position on the arch to assist you in placing it correctly. The front of the vehicle is now assembled from the bonnet panel, which has two towing hooks fitted to the front, and an oval fuel tank glued inside that can be seen from within the cabin through the space in the dashboard. This has a couple of ribs added, and a nice set of raised lettering facing the crew, just like the real tank. It is glued to the front and the ribbed front guard that protects the steering rack is added below, then the fuel filler cap, which is augmented by a PE strip and ribbed grip around the sides, shackled to the vehicle by a piece of PE chain that joins them together. The rear suspension is a torsion-link design, and this is simulated by the torsion springs that are included in the kit, hidden within the swing-arms that are assembled without glue in places to allow them to remain movable once complete. The drive-shafts are threaded through the swing-arm into the back of the rear hubs, where a ball-joint allows them to clip into position and remain mobile. The other ends of the drive-shafts are inserted into the halves of the transmission and secured inside by a collar that is glued in place, then the two halves are glued together, completing the back axle. The two-part hubs are attached to the brake drums, and brake hoses are fitted to the pins on the back of the drums, with another length joining the transmission to the frame on which it is assembled. The rear seats are inserted in the back of the crew compartment along with the rear cushion on a frame, then the engine is mated with the open end of the gearbox then covered over by the top panel, a cut-out floor and rear bulkhead in a slightly confusing diagram (88). The external boot cowling is outfitted with two folding doors by the addition of brackets covering up the hinge pegs. The styrene grab-handles are replaced by PE parts, and when the cowling is fixed to the body, the Notek light and a combined towing hitch and sump protector are installed under the rear. The hitch is improved by adding some PE parts from the set, and a new PE reflector is fixed next to the rear left wheel. Speaking of wheels, the four flexible tyres can be pushed onto the hubs, while the spare gets pushed over a two-part hub that is fitted to the bonnet next to two replacement PE windscreen clips that hold it down when it is laid flat. The Kübelwagen is a four-door vehicle, and all four are identical, so interchangeable, which was quite a clever idea. The panel is surrounded by a four-part frame, a handle on each side, plus two hinges that allow them to mount on the B-pillar without glue. The windscreen is similarly surrounded by a four-part frame, and has two motor housings fixed into the inside, and two replacement PE wiper arms and blades on the outside. There are two hinges fixed to the bonnet, and two pegs are slipped through to secure the screen in position but leave it poseable. The steering wheel, wing mirror, headlamps and Notek blackout front light are all attached, as are the horn assembly and a shovel that has its simplified restraints replaced with more accurate brass parts with a high part count for ultimate realism. A new assembly is provided for the centre of the crew compartment that is not included in the base kit in any shape or form. That is a four-place rifle rack, which has a set of clamps at the top, and four oval receptacles that glue to the floor below. As to where you’ll get the rifles, that’s up to you, as 1:9 is a bit of a niche scale. Now for some accessories. The kit includes an MG42 machine gun on a pintle mount, a helmet with separate part for the liner and flexible plastic straps, plus a gasmask canister. All of these get substantially upgraded with parts from the Platinum set. The MG42 is well-detailed as-is, but the end result is so much better thanks to the addition of a turned muzzle, a complete replacement to the breech cover, and a representation of the interior and bolt. You also get an upgrade to the drum mag, adding extra detail to the front and rear, as well as the curved door where the bullets feed out. The buttstock also gets a skin to add the texturing to the rear that turns the finished article into a model in itself. The helmet has the rubbery strap replaced by a more detailed pair of PE parts that can be posed in your preferred position, rather than being at the wobbly-whim of that strange flexible plastic. Finally, the gasmask canister is laced up with PE straps that again replace cut-up lengths of flexible black strap, but utilises the C-shaped loops that come with the kit. The helmet and canister are shown thrown on the back seat in the instructions, while the MG42 is mounted on the cross-brace between the front and rear seat, with a bipod that can be built stowed or deployed. If you want to put the MG42 on the pintle mount, you may have to decide whether to do that, or use the PE rifle rack instead, as they take up the same space on the cross-rail unless you move the mount to the side like in the photo below. You could always put the MG42 on the rear seat instead. Speaking of stowed or deployed, the last task is probably the trickiest. The canvas hood that keeps the weather off when it’s no longer sunny. The framework is first to be built, using glue sparingly to ensure that things will remain mobile afterwards. It takes three steps to finish the frame, then the canvas cover is cut to shape following the solid lines, and using the dotted lines as folding guides. The small rear window is first to be fitted after cutting the aperture carefully with a knife, then each of the four windows are wrapped in a canvas frame, using a suitable clear-friendly glue, and lots of clamps while the glue sets. These then slot into the tops of the doors on two pegs each, and the tubular frame is inserted within the main cover, which is probably not as easy as the instructions make out. There are a number of PE fixtures and fittings to apply to the canvas, and a set of U-shaped brackets are fixed to the rear and sides by drilling out pairs of 0.5mm holes to insert the legs, which once cured are used to tie the canvas down at the rear with those new straps. Markings There are five decal options on the sheet with a variety of schemes, but due to the ancient origin of the kit there are only some rather rudimentary profiles in black and white, which we haven’t reproduced here because they’re of little value. It’s a shame that Revell didn’t take the time to redraw the profiles in a more modern fashion, but they’re pretty simple schemes consisting of one or two colours. From the box you can build one of the following: Panzergrenadierdivision Großdeutschland, Kharkov, Eastern Front, May 1943 – all over panzer grey 3. Pz. Grenadier Div. Empoli, Italy, July 1944 – all over sand 6. Panzerdivision, Volokolamsk, Russia, December 1941 – panzer grey with white winter distemper finish 21. Panzerdivision, Caen, Normandy, July 1944 – Dark yellow with green camouflage Soviet Army (captured) Vilnius, Lithuania, July 1944 The profiles are captioned in French, so I’ve done my best to translate them into English. Decals are by Zanetti, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion This is an old kit, but it is really rather good for its age, and with the addition of the extras in the Platinum pack, it absolutely takes it up a notch or seven. The canvas roof will make a few baulk at first sight, but with care and attention to detail, an amazing model will result. Very highly recommended. Currently, Revell are unable to ship to the UK from their online shop due to recent changes in import regulations, but there are many shops stocking their products where you can pick up the kits either in the flesh or online. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  5. This is Cromwell’s diminutive 1/76 scale Wehrmacht VW staff car. The kit depicts a KdF Type 60 Volkswagen from 1943, but I built it up as a later Bundeswehr vehicle of the 1960s. 🥶
  6. VW New Beetle (07643) Easy-Click System 1:24 Revell The Beetle was one of the icons of the 60s and the summer of love, which is kind of weird really when you think of the origins of the original Beetle as the People's Car, or 'Volkswagen' for the Nazis before WWII. There were millions made after the war, and even after production in Germany finished, they were still being made in Mexico until relatively recently. When VW announced they had reimagined the Beetle on a Golf chassis in 1997 there was great deal of interest, and many of the new design were bought, despite it looking a bit bulbous to my eyes. When it was re-designed again in 2011 it became less of a “fun” novelty car, more sleek, business-like and practical-looking than its previous incarnation, taking the design cues of the then-current VW range and incorporating them into its unusual lines. To me it looks a little Porsche-like from some angles, which is no bad thing. The Kit This is a new tool in Revell’s Easy-Click system, and the first thing I noticed is that the bodyshell is painted the same metallic blue as the Ford GT I reviewed a couple of years back. It is aimed at the cross-over point between modelling and play, with the play aspect catered for by rugged design and materials. It arrives in an end-opening box, and inside are three sprues of black styrene plus a floor pan in the same colour, a silver painted grey sprue, a clear sprue, a small blue sprue that matches the bodyshell colour, and a flexible sprue containing four tyres. The final part is transparent red, then there is a sheet of decals and a sheet of stickers for the younger or less-patient modeller. The axles are metal rods with knurled ends, and five screws are supplied too, which is a little against the easy-click aspect, but hopefully everyone has access to a cross-headed screwdriver or two. Construction begins with the floor pan, which has the seat bases and much of the interior moulded in, to which you add the door cards, rear seat backs and the front seat back with inserts to bulk them out. The dash is prepared with a binnacle and wheel, with some of the decals or stickers applied here, then the bodyshell is fitted out with the glazing panel after optional painting of the black edges of the glass, with the diagram telling you to PUSH! In three areas to get it to fit correctly. The clear red insert fits in the rear on a few pins, and the silver front interior with two lenses slots into the front in the same manner, after which you can join the two halves together, putting two screws in the front wheel wells to hold them together. The undertray covers up the underside of the interior and is also screwed in place with two more screws, leaving a spare if you haven’t lost that one yet. A couple of colour call-outs advise painting the exhaust and a few parts of the underside, then you can build the wheels. Each wheel has a nice spoked design in a satin silver paint, which push inside the tyres, overlapping almost completely at the rear to prevent them from rolling off during “hard cornering”. These are then paired and pushed onto the axles once they are threaded through the body, allowing it to stand on its own wheels for the first time. The small blue sprue has the two wing mirrors with instructions to paint the mirror glass silver (or use the decals/stickers) and the stalk black. That’s it done. Markings As mentioned, you have a choice of decals printed by Zanetti, or stickers that are also printed in Italy. The decals are excellent and well-detailed with a choice of various number plate designs, indicator repeaters, vents and other body details to add a little realism to the build. The stickers look equally nice, and some have black surrounds to prevent white edges showing around badges and number plates. There is also a set of showroom style “New Beetle” plates if you wish. As promised, I'm posting below the pictures of the finished article that I put together the other day, now that I've got the decals on. I added a sheet styrene number plate behind the front plate decal, as I thought it would look better than just cutting out the decal and sticking it to the bumper. Conclusion While these kits aren’t really aimed at modellers, there is definitely scope for the improvement of what is a nice basic kit that should last well as a toy. I know for a fact that my son still plays with the Ford GT I gave him and it is still intact as far as I can remember. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  7. As a longtime fan of TV shows such as Overhaulin,' Fast n Loud, Car SOS etc I would love to have a go myself. However, I can't weld, I don't have the space or the money and the old joints are stiffer than they used to be and don't like lying down on cold floors, or kneeling, or....) So, after seeing a picture of a Custom VW pickup I had the urge to build one in miniature. I got a Revell VW type 1 Samba kit from Amazon warehouse deals for about 15 pounds with the intention of converting it into a pickup. I put out a request for pickup measurements here on BM and amongst the replies was an offer of a used Hasegawa one from @Marco F. in Germany. That arrived after a few days and I am very grateful indeed for his kind donation. The Hasegawa kit is a type 2 and there are a couple of differences between the kits and also between the real types. Notably the cooling vents on the sides. I managed to get an hour or two this afternoon in the manshed. Lots of measuring, muttering and thinking ensued. Here for your perusal are the results of this. Some of the main bits. The Hasegawa chassis is the grey one. A bit different to the Revell. These are both 1/24th kits BTW. The Hasegawa pickup body. It's been paint stripped with brake fluid but survived very well indeed. Note the Horizontal vents above the rear wheel arch, They're vertical on the Samba. A close up of the two chassis'. The end result will be lowered so I'll need to play with the running gear but I'm not too concerned about the underneath and will call it a 'kerbside' model. As I said, lots of measuring and muttering ensued. As on the real thing, cut lines marked with tape. The kit is for a LHD vehicle so I'll leave it that way. This window section will be cut out of the samba side to go here on the left. The back of the pickup cab will be cut off and there will obviously be a cut across the roof too. I'll need to fit a section of the Samba roof which has a sunroof to be filled, but I like the roof windows so may splice those in while I'm about it. On the RH side this door and the B pillar will be spliced in. I may well put a spacer behind it in what will be the C pillar and then fit the cab rear. So we get four seats/extra stowage but a smaller pickup bed. Marco also sent the dropdown side panels which should fit nicely with one section sliced off. And that's where things will stay until the next time, maybe the weekend, I'll need my brave pills before I get the Dremel out! Back at work tomorrow after over a week off. It was great, but now the real world beckons. Rats! Thanks for looking in, Pete
  8. Hi, to everybody. I’m italian and a big vw fan (i have a couple of mk3) I started 2 years ago the collection of this 1/8 golf GTI (100 issues) only for italian market and the collection is now terminated......my model not (some stop due to work on a couple of 1/8 Delta WRC) I’ve started a tuned/stanced project but i decided to remade it with extra details to add more realism to my model. I work on this model when I'll made some work pause on Mclarem Here the status (i've stated to rework in July)
  9. I have a VW Samba T2 model and have a whim to build it as a custom crewcab pickup. That's lowered, wide wheels and three or four doors. Does anyone have the Hasegawa pickup kit? What I'm after is some measurements such as the height of the bed from the sills/wheelarches etc. Also the length and height of the dropdown side/rear panels. And how big are the vents above the wheelarch? How many ribs are on the pickup bed? Or, does anyone have a scrap/shelf of doom/built but unloved one they want to sell on?
  10. Volkswagen Scirocco 1:25 kit from AMT Some of you may know but I’m a VW fan, having owned many different Vee-Dubs over the years, and still have a Mk1 Golf GTi in the garage for summer fun, and in my time 2 Sciroccos have passed through my hands. The Scirocco was a replacement for the Karmann Ghia coupe and was launched 6 months before the Golf so any teething problems could be sorted before the Golf hit the roads. Although it is biased on the Golfs platform (chassis) it was modified extensively to give a sportier ride, with its front mounted engines, with front wheel drive and sleek coupe body penned by Giorgetto Giugiaro. When I saw the re-issue of the old AMT Scirocco I was very excited, I’ve a stash of VW kits ready to build scale replicas of some of my favourite cars from my past so I could now add one of my ‘Roccos’ to the fleet! The AMT kit comes in the normal AMT style box with a lift off lid, and a box full of plastic. Most is moulded in a light grey plastic, with a clear single piece glazing part, and a chrome sprue, with all sprues being bagged individually. The body comes as a single part with the lower front and rear valances to be added and a separate bonnet. The body is a nice casting and it looks in proportion and the lines look good to my eye. The kit is an early Mk1, with US specification side markers, if you are building a European model these will need sanding off the shell and won’t be too hard to do. The car has the single wiper moulded on the shell and this helps date the car to a 1977 model to convert to an earlier version this can be sanded off and twin wipers added. Construction starts with the engine, slipping my VW anorak on, it looks like the 1.6l petrol engine with the 4 speed manual gearbox. The shape of the engine looks good and the parts are well detailed, a quick look online will bring up lots of pictures to help you add detail should you wish to show off the engine on your model. This kit can be built as either a stock ‘road’ car or as a race car with wide wheels, stripped interior roll cage and body kit. The instructions now split the road and race builds and your spares box will benefit from some left over parts. The car only has a left hand drive dashboard so for a British car some cutting and modification will be required here. The parts for the interior are well detailed with the door cards and rear interior being well done, and the interior tub has ‘rough’ casting to represent the carpets, and the seats are textured to mimic the stitching and pattern on the fabric. For the race car a multi-part roll cage needs making up and a deep race bucket seat is needed omitting the rear and passenger seat. Construction then moves onto the chassis, this is a single part and the underside has all the complex pressings and mouldings found on the 1:1, there is some flash present on the review sample that will need some work around the edges. Again there is optional parts between the race and road here, the race car has a straight through exhaust, exiting at the side, with a more conventional rear exit with silencer exhaust for the road. Construction now starts on the body, under the bonnet the firewall and internal wings are built up, I would glue this into the body before painting, along with the front and rear valances I would also glue the bonnet in place if you want the model closed. This is where the body kit is added if wanted, with 4 wide wheel arch extensions and a big front valance with air dam and spoiler. Finishing off your build are the wheels, some nice VW standard alloys or a big wide set of BBS race wheels topped off with some nice rubber tyres, there are 8 in the box 4 narrow ‘road’ tyres and 4 wide tyres, they all have nice side wall and tread detail. A single decal sheet has the stripes, race numbers sponsor logos and VW badges for the race car along with some ‘Scirocco’ dealer plates all nicely printed and sharply done. Conclusion. It’s great to see this kit back, it will fill a hole in my collection. With the crisp lines of the Scirocco captured and the option of road or race versions should make it more popular. Bad points, other than no right hand drive dashboard nothing! Review sample courtesy of UK distributors for
  11. Waiting for the dimensions of the 1927 Delage I temporarily resumed work on a project I abandoned three years ago, a 1970 Volkswagen Beetle. Revell says it's a 1968 car but the standing headlights and other characteristics do not match that. I'll give a picture summary of the work till now, whereas the recent works will be elaborated on (slightly). The purpose of these new works is to practice the lathe and milling machine for the benefit of the Delage build. The original texts (for a forum in the Dutch language) are extensive. If anyone is interested in knowing more of a certain picture, you're very welcome to ask. I'll use the original numbering. 6. 7. 10. 13. 16. 18. 28. 31. 32. 52. 53. 57. 62. 72. 73. 76. 79. 85. 90. 92. 96. 101. 106. 109. 114. 118. 123. 135. 141. 143. 150. 155. 168. 176. So far for the work done until May 2014. In another post I'll describe the 2017 progress.
  12. We've just received our stock of Belkits highly detailed 1/24 Scale VW Polo R WRC Red Bull Plastic Model Kit! This fantastic kit comes with photo-etched and night race parts included! Available while stocks last, so get your order in early! For full details, see our newsletter here.
  13. Hi Everyone, Here is another of my early builds for 2015. A Revell 1:24 scale New Style Volkswagen Beetle, which was another of my purchases from LSA Models. This is something of a personal project for me as this is the first and only car I have owned since passing my driving test, I will therefore be painting it blue as that is the colour of the car I have. I would also like to create a custom number plate decal, but not sure how to do that. Anyway here are the photos of the box and sprues. Update as soon as I get to work on this kit. Rick
  14. Volkswagen Kübelwagen, pics thanks to Mike.
  15. VW Ambulance as used by the Royal Danish Air Force, Pictrures by Hans J taken at The Danish Air Force at the museum in Ringkoebing
  16. Volkswagen Beetle (aircooled)
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