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Found 23 results

  1. Hello, I was wondering if somebody had the same problem I had with Microscale Micro Coat Satin (or Flat) causing a white haze. I used Microscale Micro Coat Satin as finish over some parts of my kit that I had coated with Glossy Lucky Varnish from Ammo by Mig. After I had airbrushed two thin layers, some sort of white haze started to form and also some wrinkeling on the surface. Has anybody experienced this same effect? And what might cause this? Most importantly: how can I fix this? I'm hoping for some constructive reactions. Cheers, R
  2. Good morning everyone , I had a simple question that has probably been answered hundreds of times , i finally completed my tamiya tiger 1 , it was first sprayed with vallejo white primer , and then vallejo model airs dk panzer grey , ok so bearing in mind this white primer gave a slight rough finish (because its white) i then painted the panzer dark grey , then it was finished off with 3 coats of gloss , the other day when it was on the shelf i desided to test how durable it was , so i gave it a medium scratch so not too much force , and i noticed tiny speckles of the white primer showing , i
  3. Just a quicky, can you thin klear with water? Don’t want to commit to model if it may ruin it, looking to seal Vallejo air silver and aluminium.
  4. I'm in the process of building the Airfix Swift. Painted it with acrylic paint, Xtracrylix on top, Model Master on underside. Spent 3 days putting on stickers and last night used Humbrol Acrylic Gloss Varnish to seal them in having given it a good shake. Went back to the man cave this morning and the photos show what it looks like. Stickers eaten away, frosted and Matt varnish coat (tho the underside is barely touched ). The photos don't do justice BTW of the extent of the frosting. It's as tho I've misted it in light grey. Before I put it down to bad luck, write off the hours I've p
  5. I've been working on and off with these kits for months............................. I got the base colour done. Then the first gloss coat and decals. A somewhat in-expert dark pinwash followed a second gloss coat. Unfortunately, when I came to do the matt coat prior to weathering I selected an old tin of Humbrol matt (49). This tin now resides in the bin. Because, as you will see below, it isn't quite the finish I was looking for! Someone might say "that looks awwight" but to me they look like they've been left out in the
  6. Hi folks. I am thinking of getting a new Acrylic based varnish for my models and I am currently stuck between two. The first is Mission Models and I have seen their tutorials and they look great. The other that I have seen good reviews for is Winsor & Newton Galeria Acrylic varnishes. However, for the W&N Galeria Varnishes what would be the correct thinner to varnish ratio. I have read that they work with Tamiya X-20A Acrylic thinners and I have read that they should work with ultimate thinners too. Does anyone (preferably anyone who has used W&N) know the right ratio
  7. Hello All! I am posting as I could really do with some advice from the experts! Essentially I am currently trying to improve my modelling, and have decided to try and use a pin wash to highlight the panel lines in the aircraft I am currently making. Before this is done I have read that you should coat the model with a gloss varnish in order to allow the wash to flow better over the model’s surface. I have therefore been looking into buying a gloss varnish, but have been stunned by the variety on offer and am really confused as to the difference between them
  8. As I’ve recently returned to modelling after an extended break techniques have changed. Currently building the Airfix 1/72 Lancaster BIII Dambuster. After having completed the painting using Vallejo acrylics I then moved to the gloss coat prior to adding decals. At this stage disaster struck. My first attempt airbrushing a mix of 75% varnish to 25% water coat of Vallejo Gloss. The coat pooled and run and dried milky even though I thought I had misted it. I then had to rub down and decided to try brushing. I used a good quality 1” acrylic brush but after 2 coats there was brush streaks all over
  9. Hi all. Has anyone encountered an issue with Mig Ammo Lucky Varnish - Matt where, when you spray, its hitting the surface with small beads of fluid instead of nice, transparent coverage? When I looked at the spray pattern against the back of the booth, is was almost whisping out of the airbrush instead of projecting as normal. This stuff had worked perfect every single time until now. I only marginally managed to get it to perform by putting in a few drops of ultimate airbrush thinner, but it usually works straight out of the bottle. I shook it thoroughly before use so
  10. Hi Guys I ran into trouble today. I have spent an age slowly making my Mig-21 beautiful. It is painted in its base coat ‘AK interactive Aluminium’ and Klear coat varnished. I use an airbrush and our UK equivilant of Klear varnish ‘Pledge multi-surface floor polish’. I gave the model 2 thin coats of varnish, 4 hours between coats. then waited 19 hours before applying my oil wash. The wash is made of oil paint and white spirit. I applied it using a brush liberal, and after 8 minutes proceeded to remove it with a dry kitchen towel. I felt like it wasn’t shifting away enoug
  11. Hi Guys, I have a question, I have made my first few models and was hoping to finish my canopies as nicely as possible. I wanted to make sure that my process is not hindering the clarity of my canopy. First I clean and polish the canopy with a polishing stick, this seems to work really well. Then I dip the canopy into a pot of Pledge multi-surface polish, this used to be known as ‘KLEAR’ in the UK. It is left overnight under a box to prevent dust whilst curing. once its ready I will then glue it to the unpainted aircraft, ‘I finish all my models with canopies closed’.
  12. Hi I was looking to buy 1:48 A-10 but considering the expense of the model, I really want to make it perfect. One problem I have had in the past is decal silvering, even with Humbrol Decal Fix, so now I want to buy a varnish to help me apply them better (I have never used a varnish before). I have searched the internet and most people seem to use Alclad or Humbrol - given the fact that I have never used any Alclad products, I will look to buy Humbrol. I need a gloss varnish to apply the decals onto, however, Humbrol offer different ones: https://www.humbrol.
  13. So I have a question about mr color paints. Specifically Super clear iii, semi gloss and Matt varnishes. Are they acrylic paints, enamel paints or other like lacquer based (because they sure do stink!) - Can I paint them over say tamiya acrylic or a metallic enamel, or just the tamiya (which I have done). Secondly what can I paint over them once dry - would I need enamel or acrylic washes, because I have seen washes with x-20 enamel thinners used on top of the mr color varnish, as well as AK washes. Cheers
  14. I will soon finish painting my model (Revell Enterprise NCC1701 (TOS)) and I'm starting to think about decals. I've seen some excellent tips on applying decals in these forums, but I haven't come across anything about surface preparation that answered my nagging doubts/confusion. I've read that I should apply them to a glossy surface, "It is vitally important to have a gloss or semi-gloss surface to apply the decals. If the model is painted with matt/flat paints, then the surface needs to have a couple of thin coats of gloss varnish". So, I already have som
  15. Hi, Quick question regarding varnishes for the Gunzeheads out there, as I haven't found an answer online: Backstory first: I used decanted Mr Top Coat thinned with a little Levelling Thinner through my airbrush last week, and after a standard clean up and a couple of days used the same airbrush with Super clear II (Mr Color CL184) from a jar, again thinned with LT. Soon the super clear turned into sticky goo. The spray job was put on hold so no dramas there. Anyway, I suspect the goo is a reaction of the lacquer based Super clear II to the acrylic Mr Top Coat that still lurked in the nooks a
  16. Hello all. I'm in a state of confusion at present, heh. Ok, so here's the issue. After quite a hiatus I've recently got back into some modelling. Back when I use to make models, I put them together, painted them and added the decals, and that was it. I never used varnishes or washes or weathering. For Christmas I received a Bandai 1/72 Y-Wing starfighter. A bit different from what I used to make, being a clip-kit, but I actually quite liked not having to faff around with glue, sticking the parts to myself more than the other pieces So anyway. I gave it a coat of Tamiya primer, then some fl
  17. Hi all, just joined -- did some searching before posting but didn't find anything that addressed the issues I've been having. (Sorry if I've missed something pertient.) I'm hand painting with Vallejo Model Colors, washes, and varnishes (don't want to use anything with fumes, and haven't had time to learn to use an airbrush yet). My current workflow is a few layers of primer -> a few layers of paint -> gloss varnish -> wash -> sometimes gloss varnish again for extra protection -> a few coats of matte varnish Two things related to Vallejo's matte varnish. First, it stays 'tacky'
  18. Hi all, as recommended by all good modelling magazines I painted a propeller blade in a light base colour (acrylic) and then applied oil paint thinned with turpentine and now I have a nice wood grain finish on the prop. My problem is I want to seal it but have no idea if I should use enamel or acrylic varnish over the oil paint? To head it off at the pass (so to speak) if the answer is 'use Johnson's Klear' I don't have any I'm afraid. It would be nice if the answer were "both enamel and acrylic are just fine over oil paint" but suspect I'll not be that lucky? Any advice is gratefully rec
  19. I have printed some decals and now need to varnish them before cutting out and applying. Printed using Mr. Decal paper and Epson colour-fast inks. When in place, the model will be brush-coated with Winsor & Newton Galeria. Last time I had a problem with the varnish "spotting" in little blobs rather than settling down smooth. I am assuming that this was because the paper is porous, so the solvent gets sucked down before the splatted droplets can merge. It's especially noticeable when you have a glossy final finish. Has anybody had better results with some other brand of spray can?
  20. All, I've just completed an online purchase of a can of Humbrol Satin Spray and have just realised that I've ordered the Enamel version rather than the Acrylic version!! (only enamel version offered and I had no idea that it came in two formulas!!). Does anyone know if I can spray the Enamel spray over Acrylic based Klear? I will obviously try this on a test piece first before I attack the model, however I just wanted to ask to see what others know or have tried. Cheers and looking forward to hopefully a positive responce.. Dave.
  21. Wanting a finish for a British aircraft built ca. 1942 (not long after the introduction of Ocean Grey), and I believe that a kind of "off-matt" or not-quite-satin would be about right. I tried out a tinlet of Humbrol Satin Enamel varnish and it seems surprisingly matt, just about right. But when I mix in a little Humbrol Thinners (cos it's a bit gloopy) and brush it on, it dries with fine brushmarks of matt vs. satin sheen. If I spray it on, I may need to mix in a dash of matt to get the slight sheen I want, so a rattle can is not really an option. So, two questions: First, is there a way to
  22. I have recently purchased Humbrol Clear Coat Satin varnish. I'm planning on spraying it with an airbrush soon. Does anyone have any tips or advice when using it? How difficult is it to clean the airbrush after using it? And what do you use to clean the airbrush? On a similar note, what is best for cleaning Klear out of an airbrush? I'm wary that some cleaning products perish rubber and may eat at the o-rings in an airbrush. Many thanks in advance!
  23. Just finishing my XH558 rendering of the Airfix 1/72 kit - will post to RFI when done. It's had numerous coats of Humbrol Clear before decaling and a couple after and it's got quite a nice deep lustre about it. I'm about to do a quick panel line wash with Flory Models 'Grime' and then a final coat of varnish, final assembly and et voila! The question is should that final coat be Humbrol Clear again or Xtracrylix Satin? I've looked at loads of pictures (including the VTTS publications actually of the contemporary XH558) and it seems pretty shiny to me so I'm of a mind to stay with gloss but c
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