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Found 25 results

  1. I have had a slight problem recently with applying washes and weathering after the decal stage. I applied Pledge varnish prior to the wash and then the washes, which seemed to bleed into the prior acrylic paint coats and make a mess. I removed all the paint and started again. My question is what type of varnish should you apply? Is is dependent on the type of washes and weathering you apply? For example if its an acrylic based wash should you apply a non acrylic vanish to prevent the two from mixing, and causing the problem I had? If its oil based washes and weathering then is it another type of varnish compared to the acrylic type washes?
  2. Hello! Does Humbrol decalfix pick up the acrylic Vallejo gloss varnish? Thanks in advance for the answers!
  3. Hello, I was wondering if somebody had the same problem I had with Microscale Micro Coat Satin (or Flat) causing a white haze. I used Microscale Micro Coat Satin as finish over some parts of my kit that I had coated with Glossy Lucky Varnish from Ammo by Mig. After I had airbrushed two thin layers, some sort of white haze started to form and also some wrinkeling on the surface. Has anybody experienced this same effect? And what might cause this? Most importantly: how can I fix this? I'm hoping for some constructive reactions. Cheers, Remco.
  4. Good morning everyone , I had a simple question that has probably been answered hundreds of times , i finally completed my tamiya tiger 1 , it was first sprayed with vallejo white primer , and then vallejo model airs dk panzer grey , ok so bearing in mind this white primer gave a slight rough finish (because its white) i then painted the panzer dark grey , then it was finished off with 3 coats of gloss , the other day when it was on the shelf i desided to test how durable it was , so i gave it a medium scratch so not too much force , and i noticed tiny speckles of the white primer showing , incredibly small , does that mean my varnish is doing its job?
  5. Just a quicky, can you thin klear with water? Don’t want to commit to model if it may ruin it, looking to seal Vallejo air silver and aluminium.
  6. I'm in the process of building the Airfix Swift. Painted it with acrylic paint, Xtracrylix on top, Model Master on underside. Spent 3 days putting on stickers and last night used Humbrol Acrylic Gloss Varnish to seal them in having given it a good shake. Went back to the man cave this morning and the photos show what it looks like. Stickers eaten away, frosted and Matt varnish coat (tho the underside is barely touched 🤷🏻‍♂️). The photos don't do justice BTW of the extent of the frosting. It's as tho I've misted it in light grey. Before I put it down to bad luck, write off the hours I've put into it, vow never to use Humbrol Acylic Sprays ever again and bin it I thought I'd ask if there's any way to save it aside from stripping it and starting again. TIA.
  7. I've been working on and off with these kits for months............................. I got the base colour done. Then the first gloss coat and decals. A somewhat in-expert dark pinwash followed a second gloss coat. Unfortunately, when I came to do the matt coat prior to weathering I selected an old tin of Humbrol matt (49). This tin now resides in the bin. Because, as you will see below, it isn't quite the finish I was looking for! Someone might say "that looks awwight" but to me they look like they've been left out in the frost. Question arises as to what comes next (apart from my initial thoughts about the plastic following the matt varnish). I've read about a further gloss coat with a repeat pinwash/matt coat being a possible remedy. As an alternative I wonder about finishing weathering them as they are and incorporating the "new markings" into the finished results. I think I read somewhere about everywhere in Normandy being ankle deep in fine light coloured dust that got everywhere. I don't really want to repaint them as I don't have any replacement decals. Any expert advice would be much appreciated, so thank you in anticipation.😊
  8. Hi folks. I am thinking of getting a new Acrylic based varnish for my models and I am currently stuck between two. The first is Mission Models and I have seen their tutorials and they look great. The other that I have seen good reviews for is Winsor & Newton Galeria Acrylic varnishes. However, for the W&N Galeria Varnishes what would be the correct thinner to varnish ratio. I have read that they work with Tamiya X-20A Acrylic thinners and I have read that they should work with ultimate thinners too. Does anyone (preferably anyone who has used W&N) know the right ratio for the varnishes. Another point is that I am starting to use Tamiya Mark Fit Strong as a decal solution and I was wondering if it was safe to use Mark Fit Strong on top of either Mission Models varnish or W&N Galeria varnish. I have read that it should be safe, but I would like be sure before I try it out for real. (I could always use a test sample first.)
  9. Hello All! I am posting as I could really do with some advice from the experts! Essentially I am currently trying to improve my modelling, and have decided to try and use a pin wash to highlight the panel lines in the aircraft I am currently making. Before this is done I have read that you should coat the model with a gloss varnish in order to allow the wash to flow better over the model’s surface. I have therefore been looking into buying a gloss varnish, but have been stunned by the variety on offer and am really confused as to the difference between them all. I really don't want to end up using a varnish which will melt away either my paint work or the decals. My model is painted predominantly with Humbrol enamel paints, with some acrylic paint used on the landing gear. I was hoping to use an oil based wash to highlight the panel lines, which I would neaten up with a cotton bud dipped in white spirit (although I am open to advice on this front if you think a water based wash would be better?). Therefore what gloss varnish would you recommend? Should I look to get Enamel or Acrylic Varnish? Also which brands are best, as I have heard that some varnishes tend to go cloudy or yellow over time? Finally, although I need the gloss coat for applying washes I would like to have a matt finish to the aircraft. Therefore, which matt varnishes would you recommend for sealing the wash and decals and finishing off the aircraft? Thank you in advance!
  10. As I’ve recently returned to modelling after an extended break techniques have changed. Currently building the Airfix 1/72 Lancaster BIII Dambuster. After having completed the painting using Vallejo acrylics I then moved to the gloss coat prior to adding decals. At this stage disaster struck. My first attempt airbrushing a mix of 75% varnish to 25% water coat of Vallejo Gloss. The coat pooled and run and dried milky even though I thought I had misted it. I then had to rub down and decided to try brushing. I used a good quality 1” acrylic brush but after 2 coats there was brush streaks all over. Even using a very fine wet & dry and glossing over again did not remove them. I have reluctantly removed all traces of the varnish and repainted the whole model again. Before I attempt the gloss coat again I would appreciate any advice from the group as to where I may be going wrong or better gloss products to use. many thanks
  11. Hi all. Has anyone encountered an issue with Mig Ammo Lucky Varnish - Matt where, when you spray, its hitting the surface with small beads of fluid instead of nice, transparent coverage? When I looked at the spray pattern against the back of the booth, is was almost whisping out of the airbrush instead of projecting as normal. This stuff had worked perfect every single time until now. I only marginally managed to get it to perform by putting in a few drops of ultimate airbrush thinner, but it usually works straight out of the bottle. I shook it thoroughly before use so I'm kinda confused as to what the problem is with it. Its not freezing in the house at the moment, but is temperature a factor? Tamiya paint sprayed perfectly fine earlier and in a subsequent test. I'm pretty confused at the moment and its pain for the reason that Lucky Varnish is the only one I've used without any frosting, bar a rattle can of Vallejo matt (but that's a pain to use on the fly). Any suggestions or help would be appreciated, thanks. Gaz
  12. Hi Guys I ran into trouble today. I have spent an age slowly making my Mig-21 beautiful. It is painted in its base coat ‘AK interactive Aluminium’ and Klear coat varnished. I use an airbrush and our UK equivilant of Klear varnish ‘Pledge multi-surface floor polish’. I gave the model 2 thin coats of varnish, 4 hours between coats. then waited 19 hours before applying my oil wash. The wash is made of oil paint and white spirit. I applied it using a brush liberal, and after 8 minutes proceeded to remove it with a dry kitchen towel. I felt like it wasn’t shifting away enough wash so i decided to dampen some kitchen towel with water. After a few wipes i noticed my AK interactive Aluminium starting to shift, then everything came away down to the plastic. Thankfully I tested first on the rear elevators, so my model is unscathed. Does anyone have any ideas what I’ve done wrong? Did i need to wait longer for the varnish to cure? Any ideas would be appreciated Kind Regards Matt
  13. Hi Guys, I have a question, I have made my first few models and was hoping to finish my canopies as nicely as possible. I wanted to make sure that my process is not hindering the clarity of my canopy. First I clean and polish the canopy with a polishing stick, this seems to work really well. Then I dip the canopy into a pot of Pledge multi-surface polish, this used to be known as ‘KLEAR’ in the UK. It is left overnight under a box to prevent dust whilst curing. once its ready I will then glue it to the unpainted aircraft, ‘I finish all my models with canopies closed’. I then mask the aircraft and canopy, I use mask tape on the canopy. I prime and base coat the aircraft. Now… here is a crucial question. I remove all masks, including the canopy mask, and gloss coat everything including the canopy with KLEAR gloss by airbrush. It seems to flow nicely across the glass. Would this process reduce clarity or quality or perhaps enhance it? How many times could I apply gloss coat with an airbrush if the process is ok? Could I polish the KLEAR coated canopy if at all, and how? I would love to here your thoughts fellow modellers. Kind Regards Matt
  14. Hi I was looking to buy 1:48 A-10 but considering the expense of the model, I really want to make it perfect. One problem I have had in the past is decal silvering, even with Humbrol Decal Fix, so now I want to buy a varnish to help me apply them better (I have never used a varnish before). I have searched the internet and most people seem to use Alclad or Humbrol - given the fact that I have never used any Alclad products, I will look to buy Humbrol. I need a gloss varnish to apply the decals onto, however, Humbrol offer different ones: https://www.humbrol.com/uk-en/shop/coatings-thinners/humbrol-gloss-clear-125ml-bottle.html https://www.humbrol.com/uk-en/shop/coatings-thinners/modelcote-gloss-cote-28ml-bottle.html https://www.humbrol.com/uk-en/shop/spray-paints/varnish-sprays/35-enamel-varnish-gloss-150ml-spray-varnish.html (this can also be bought in tins however I feel like spraying the varnish would be better???) EDIT: http://www.alclad2-online.co.uk/index.php?CATEGORY=1&SUB=4&THISPAGE=2&RADIOSORT=5&PICFILE=163&STKNR=163&STRH=4165&ORDN=5029&RNZ=586536 (After some research Alclad II Aqua Gloss sounds very promising, however, I do not have an airbrush which I think is what it is designed for - any opinions on brush use of it?) Any info one what the differences are would be greatly appreciated. Oh, and I'll be brush applying if they do come in bottles because I don't have an airbrush. Cheers, Adam
  15. So I have a question about mr color paints. Specifically Super clear iii, semi gloss and Matt varnishes. Are they acrylic paints, enamel paints or other like lacquer based (because they sure do stink!) - Can I paint them over say tamiya acrylic or a metallic enamel, or just the tamiya (which I have done). Secondly what can I paint over them once dry - would I need enamel or acrylic washes, because I have seen washes with x-20 enamel thinners used on top of the mr color varnish, as well as AK washes. Cheers
  16. I will soon finish painting my model (Revell Enterprise NCC1701 (TOS)) and I'm starting to think about decals. I've seen some excellent tips on applying decals in these forums, but I haven't come across anything about surface preparation that answered my nagging doubts/confusion. I've read that I should apply them to a glossy surface, "It is vitally important to have a gloss or semi-gloss surface to apply the decals. If the model is painted with matt/flat paints, then the surface needs to have a couple of thin coats of gloss varnish". So, I already have some 'Revell Clear Matt Acrylic Spray', that I was planning to use to give the model a final protective coat, I chose Matt because I didn't want the model to look too shiny. But it sounds like I would need to use a glossy coat before applying the decals, and then finish with the Matt coat? Would 'Humbrol Gloss Varnish Modellers Spray' be suitable for this purpose? Thanks for any help/tips
  17. Hi, Quick question regarding varnishes for the Gunzeheads out there, as I haven't found an answer online: Backstory first: I used decanted Mr Top Coat thinned with a little Levelling Thinner through my airbrush last week, and after a standard clean up and a couple of days used the same airbrush with Super clear II (Mr Color CL184) from a jar, again thinned with LT. Soon the super clear turned into sticky goo. The spray job was put on hold so no dramas there. Anyway, I suspect the goo is a reaction of the lacquer based Super clear II to the acrylic Mr Top Coat that still lurked in the nooks and crannies of the airbrush's innards. So I wonder then: is there a definitive inventory out there as to which Gunze varnish and filler products 'like' each other and which ones will 'bite', or which ones are lacquer and which acrylic (aside from the paint coding system)? There's lots of info on the labels of the jars and spray cans, but it's all in Japanese. And my Translate app doesn't read Japanese yet. Thanks, Jay
  18. Hello all. I'm in a state of confusion at present, heh. Ok, so here's the issue. After quite a hiatus I've recently got back into some modelling. Back when I use to make models, I put them together, painted them and added the decals, and that was it. I never used varnishes or washes or weathering. For Christmas I received a Bandai 1/72 Y-Wing starfighter. A bit different from what I used to make, being a clip-kit, but I actually quite liked not having to faff around with glue, sticking the parts to myself more than the other pieces So anyway. I gave it a coat of Tamiya primer, then some flat black and light grey for the shadowing. Other bits were painted with Tamiya acrylics with tiny amounts of Revell matt enamels here and there (for chips and marks and whatnot). Overall, I think it looks pretty good for my first foray into 'beating' up a kit. Now here's where the dilemma sets in. Varnishing. I've read a lot about Klear. Of course, prior to this kit, I'd never heard of the stuff. Apparently it was renamed and rebottled and appears slightly different, but works the same way. I got my hands on some Pledge Multi-Surface Wax, which I think is the same stuff updated. My surety wavers a little when I see people displaying bottles with the old Klear markings above the new title (I haven't actually seen anyone with the exact bottle I have). I've tested it on a small piece, and it did do the job. Also stood up to a small test of Mig washes and a bit of paint cleaner (still waiting on my Mig thinner to arrive). However, the results were a little less stellar on a larger test piece (the kit base). It didn't seem to apply consistently, and even after a few coats the wash test didn't really flow into all the little nooks and cranny's. In hindsight doing a test clean up with the Revell paint cleaner probably wasn't the best choice ( ) since it started to remove the underlying layer, but the exercise had me a little concerned for when I would apply this stuff to the model. By brush, I might add. So I started looking around. So far I've snagged myself a can of Vallejo matt acrylic for the final job (I think prior to applying Mig pigments, since I hear coating them doesn't work well) since a test of adding some flat base to the pledge didn't exactly work, but my recent test had me wondering about the gloss. Today I had a look around. The options were limited to a bottle of Windsor and Newton gloss varnish (not sure how that would react), and some Humbrol gloss cote. My confusion flares up with regard to the Humbrol in particular. The Humbrol video on the gloss cote says to thin it up with enamel thinners. That would suggest its composition is similar to enamel paint, or something similarly solvent based (no real information on what its made up of that I can find). But then the Humbrol washes (and the Mig for that matter) are enamel, and cleaned up with enamel thinners. So how is it the Gloss cote isn't stripped off as well? I'm pretty confused at the moment, and a little worried to try anything in case it completely knackers all my work so far. If anyone can clear this up for me, I'd really appreciate it. I'd also love to know for certain if this is the right stuff: Thanks for any help in advance
  19. Hi all, just joined -- did some searching before posting but didn't find anything that addressed the issues I've been having. (Sorry if I've missed something pertient.) I'm hand painting with Vallejo Model Colors, washes, and varnishes (don't want to use anything with fumes, and haven't had time to learn to use an airbrush yet). My current workflow is a few layers of primer -> a few layers of paint -> gloss varnish -> wash -> sometimes gloss varnish again for extra protection -> a few coats of matte varnish Two things related to Vallejo's matte varnish. First, it stays 'tacky' after it's set. I've noticed this on some pieces to which I just applied a second or third coat (they'd been drying 2-3 days), but also on a model I finished early this year: I unpacked it and found that a joint wouldn't move (it was a plastic-on-plastic pivot joint, with both surfaces painted and finished). It was so tight that when I stupidly tried to force it, part of the arm broke before the sticky joint gave way. I'm concerned about this tackiness because a lot of my kits have two painted surfaces in contact -- often for articulation, but even static pieces might rub up against each other when they're fitted together. In general, I don't want surfaces to stick to stuff. Is this just a failing of vallejo's varnish, or something in my technique, or a fact of life with clear coats in general...? Second issue is that when I apply the varnish over a wash, the varnish often 'picks up' the wash pigment and moves it around. (I'm applying washes pretty generously across the piece before brushing it away, so most of the wash ends up around panel lines and details, but there's a thin layer over the whole piece.) I've heard that you shouldn't apply acrylic varnish over an acrylic wash (i.e. use enamel or something instead), but I want to stay with an all-acrylic process, and sort of thought that since I'm using all Vallejo products they would play nice. The only way I've seen around this issue is to apply the wash liberally, so the brush is wet and moving freely across the piece -- the more friction the more the wash seems to get disturbed, as you would expect. Is it unrealistic to expect acrylic varnish on acrylic wash to work without issues? Should I put in some time learning to airbrush so I can apply the varnish gently? And if using Vallejo gloss varnish -- between the paint and wash, and between wash and matte coat -- isn't doing me any favors, is there any reason not to use Pledge/Future for those layers? Sure is cheaper. Thanks-
  20. Hi all, as recommended by all good modelling magazines I painted a propeller blade in a light base colour (acrylic) and then applied oil paint thinned with turpentine and now I have a nice wood grain finish on the prop. My problem is I want to seal it but have no idea if I should use enamel or acrylic varnish over the oil paint? To head it off at the pass (so to speak) if the answer is 'use Johnson's Klear' I don't have any I'm afraid. It would be nice if the answer were "both enamel and acrylic are just fine over oil paint" but suspect I'll not be that lucky? Any advice is gratefully received. Cheers, Pete
  21. I have printed some decals and now need to varnish them before cutting out and applying. Printed using Mr. Decal paper and Epson colour-fast inks. When in place, the model will be brush-coated with Winsor & Newton Galeria. Last time I had a problem with the varnish "spotting" in little blobs rather than settling down smooth. I am assuming that this was because the paper is porous, so the solvent gets sucked down before the splatted droplets can merge. It's especially noticeable when you have a glossy final finish. Has anybody had better results with some other brand of spray can?
  22. All, I've just completed an online purchase of a can of Humbrol Satin Spray and have just realised that I've ordered the Enamel version rather than the Acrylic version!! (only enamel version offered and I had no idea that it came in two formulas!!). Does anyone know if I can spray the Enamel spray over Acrylic based Klear? I will obviously try this on a test piece first before I attack the model, however I just wanted to ask to see what others know or have tried. Cheers and looking forward to hopefully a positive responce.. Dave.
  23. Wanting a finish for a British aircraft built ca. 1942 (not long after the introduction of Ocean Grey), and I believe that a kind of "off-matt" or not-quite-satin would be about right. I tried out a tinlet of Humbrol Satin Enamel varnish and it seems surprisingly matt, just about right. But when I mix in a little Humbrol Thinners (cos it's a bit gloopy) and brush it on, it dries with fine brushmarks of matt vs. satin sheen. If I spray it on, I may need to mix in a dash of matt to get the slight sheen I want, so a rattle can is not really an option. So, two questions: First, is there a way to brush on to give a smooth sheen, or do I need to dig out the (t)rusty old Badger and get spraying? Second, will decals stick properly or do I really need to apply gloss coat/s, decal, sheen coat/s? I tried a small spare decal and it stuck down fine.
  24. I have recently purchased Humbrol Clear Coat Satin varnish. I'm planning on spraying it with an airbrush soon. Does anyone have any tips or advice when using it? How difficult is it to clean the airbrush after using it? And what do you use to clean the airbrush? On a similar note, what is best for cleaning Klear out of an airbrush? I'm wary that some cleaning products perish rubber and may eat at the o-rings in an airbrush. Many thanks in advance!
  25. Just finishing my XH558 rendering of the Airfix 1/72 kit - will post to RFI when done. It's had numerous coats of Humbrol Clear before decaling and a couple after and it's got quite a nice deep lustre about it. I'm about to do a quick panel line wash with Flory Models 'Grime' and then a final coat of varnish, final assembly and et voila! The question is should that final coat be Humbrol Clear again or Xtracrylix Satin? I've looked at loads of pictures (including the VTTS publications actually of the contemporary XH558) and it seems pretty shiny to me so I'm of a mind to stay with gloss but could be persuaded otherwise ...... Any thoughts before I commit myself? Many thanks, Andrew BTW, it is the Falklands War 25 years edition so based on the Vulcan Display Flight I guess rather than the XH558 we know today - the moulding was the old 1980s one, which was pretty shabby compared to modern kits and the decals weren't the best but I've had fun and learnt loads!
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