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  1. Hi and yet another Vulcan build from me. In wraparound scheme either XL318 617 SQN, Or XL444 50 SQN. I have many threads going on here I used to have a policy of once started must be finished before you start another but this last 18 months that has gone totally out the window, Now viewing the shelf of doom as a shelf of enduring joy and variety I keep switching projects and starting new ones. The inspiration running high from my new experience of attending shows and seeing some amazing work on here lately. This one I am starting quite late into the build as there is not much to this kit being basically fit the cockpit and intakes then close her up and add about 10 parts. So.. I just thought I would share with you the few mods and corrections I did to this one and take it from there I also seek to correct the height of the Vulcan as On my last build of one I noted the whole thing sits way too low and looks a bit lacking in self esteem. So first of a little experiment. I have long loved the look of tinted glass and its not particularly obvious on the Vulcan but they do seem to have an browny slightly orange look to them sometimes. Accurate probably not but I decided to brave it and have a little experiment. I mixed up some Underwoods Floor Polish from Lakeland, With a few drops of Revell Aqua Brass, Revell Aqua clear Orange, Citadel Clear Brown Sepia Wash and got a brownish orange, slightly metallic clear paint. I applied this with a cotton bud on the inside and then gently rotated it so the droplet of paint gradually dried over layering itself until I was happy with the density of colour. You can see I have also used some drawings to correct the bomb aimers window (too small) using tape on the drawings (Tip I got from General melchett taa) Then transferred to the model for a rescribe. The bomb aimers blister is also too proud, the edges are too sharp and there is a weird step in front of it that needs to be removed. Some Vulcans had a small plate here but it was no were near the size of this so I cut it back with a mylar stick I have much reduces the intake splitter plates they are way over size but in reality they are actually quite restrained again these were cut back with a mylar stick. I also have started to heavily bevel the lips of the intakes as these should be very rounded and not sharp as in the kit. Now to the nose profile, I have not gone crazy here but I have attempted to reduce the hump on the top of the nose, For some reason people seem to think the Vulcan has a bulky front nose were it should actually be quite tapered. It still should be more so, But I don't want to go to far, It seems Pit Road were unsure as there is a defined molded line that looks like they added a layer which is not apparent on any Vulcan so this was all sanded away the main area is the mid top of the nose. The canopy also has a hump that should not be there but I am again only going to slightly reduce this, Also the read canopy should be 1mm Longer with a gentler curve but I can live with this. as it looks ok. It now looks a bit more as it should. The top of the tail on the RWR fincap has a prominent raised area which I have sanded back, It might be there in reality but looking at photos they look more like this too me so I sanded it to this profile. The nose hole was opened up and drilled into the Milliput weight inside to add a replacement piece of wire, the kit probe looks very weak and a bit underwhelming. I wanted it to be strong and more powerful looking so I will replace this. I used guitar string to mask the windows with child’s PVA which is easily removed with care at the end. The canopy looks very orangey on the frames but the panes look more subtle but I can only hope it looks ok at the end. If it don't,,, Oh well, It will be an interesting convo starter at shows maybe. So that gets us nearly to the paint stage. Cheers for now. Rob
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