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Found 13 results

  1. American Civil War Confederate Infantry Acrylic Paint Set (3034) ICM via H G Hannants Ltd ICM have recently released their own brand of acrylic paints on the market, and are creating some kit specific sets to go with their major releases, of which this is one. The set arrives in a cardboard box with six screw-capped bottles inside, each containing 12ml of paint. The bottles are clear Polypropylene, and are capped with cylindrical white plastic tops with knurled sides, and a one-time security seal that you break on first opening. A label on the side gives you basic information about the colour and code, a little information regarding application in English and Ukrainian and a bar-code. This set provides the major colours to assist you in painting your Confederate soldiers from ICM themselves, as they have released a few sets of figures recently, and you will find the following colours in the box: 1075 Grey Blue 1076 Deep Sky Blue 1036 Neutral Grey 1055 Deck Tan 1020 Bronze 2002 Satin Varnish The paint is thick in the bottle, with plenty of headroom between the surface of the paint and the lip of the neck for stirring or thinning. I drop a glass stirring ball into each bottle, and they take a few seconds to disappear beneath the surface, indicating their viscosity. On the rear of the pack is an example of the usage of these colours using the kit mentioned above, and it depicts the figures from one of the Confederate sets that we have reviewed on the forum. You can find them all here in a custom search, in case you don’t yet have figures to go with the paint you’ve just put in your basket. During testing, I used Ultimate Acrylic Thinners to dilute the paint to spray through my Gunze PS770 airbrush, which has a 0.18 needle chucked in. The paint dilutes well once it has been mixed thoroughly, and sprays well through my airbrush, which has a smaller than usual needle that is a good test of the finesse of the pigment grind of any brand, some of which don’t spray very well though anything less than a 0.3mm needle. There were no problems with blockages at all, and the coverage was excellent after my usual ad hoc dilution method, which was probably nowhere near the 40-60% thinners or water that’s suggested on the pack. Apart from the varnish, the other paints all dry to a matt finish. In past tests, the Satin Varnish worked very well diluted with water, sprayed over the spoons that were also partially taped up to perform two functions at once. The satin patina that resulted is exactly what was expected, and the tape lifted no paint at all, despite my best efforts to do so. Bear in mind that the spoons were prepped by a buff with a very fine sanding sponge to give them the best chance of adhesion. Using a brush, the colours cover well two coats with minimal brush marks visible. Conclusion The paints were excellent through the airbrush with nothing in the way of drama during the testing process, including the metallics and Satin Varnish. The solid colours also brushed out very well with a little thinning, as did the varnish. There is a little less paint in the bottles than some brands, but a shade more than others, so it’s about average. That is more than offset by the very reasonable price they’re asking for the set, even at RRP. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Currently on back-order, however. Review sample courtesy of
  2. My name is Mike, and I have a problem. I'm an alcoh... no, I'm obsessed with minisubs I picked up this kit of the first documented undersea vehicle somewhere. I forget where, even though it was only a few weeks ago, just for its weirdness and the fact that doesn't really look like a submarine, more like a large and aggressive barrel. It's a short-run kit, and even though it's properly teeny-tiny, smaller than a pot of paint as it stands at the moment, I've done quite a bit of work to get it to the stage you can see below: I did an extensive clean-up of the parts, especially the main hull, which was a bit ragged around the edges, and was moulded in clear, as was the hatch that's next to it and covered with port holes. I deepened the plank-lines, and tried a new technique to me, drawing a fine wire brush down the planks to give them a bit of texture. Seems to have worked, but I'll probably do a little bit more before I paint it. The join-line between the two halves were very uneven, and were covered in faded recessed rivets, so I filled the gap in the middle with a view to replacing the rivets with raised alternatives. The sanding involved in getting them smooth left them looking a little vague too, so I cut some strips of 0.1mm styrene strip and glued it down with GS-Hypo cement, so they wouldn't melt if I used liquid glue, and I had a little bit of wiggle room that would be missing if I'd used CA. I've spent some of my remaining Archer rivets in making good, also adding a punched disc to replace the removed boss around the propeller shaft. I put a brass rod in the other side to replace the pip that was lost that was intended to hold the air tank on the back. I had to cut through the strips into the grooves for the rudder, which I'd also opened up and deepened so the rudder would actually sit in them. The underside has been smoothed flat, as has the counterweight oval, which has a little bit of a sink mark around its edges before. The hatch was moulded in clear, but was a bit messy, so I thinned it from the inside and polished it back to clarity, marked out the locations for the PE portholes, and glued them on with Klear after dipping the whole ring in it to improve clarity again. The interior diameter of the portholes are 2mm, so I punched out some discs from the edge of an Eduard mask set, and put them in place to protect the clarity of those areas too. I also drilled out a few holes there and here in preparation for all the greeblies that will need gluing on later. The box-like air tank was in two halves on the sprue, and needed some fettling after it was glued together, using a bit of UV curing resin on the end caps, then sanding it down after a blast of UV light. That's it for now. I'm as yet undecided how to paint the wooden areas of the barrel, and will be using my Kaiten 10's propellers as a test for the brass colour needed here and there on this one. It's all good fun
  3. American Civil War Confederate Infantry Set #2 (35024) 1:35 ICM via Hannants Ltd The American Civil War was triggered partly by slavery, and the fact that the Northern or Union states had abolished it, while the South or Confederate states wanted to retain the status quo and keep their slaves by seceding from the union. It started in April 1861 and lasted for four years, at the end of which General Lee signed the surrender almost exactly on the four-year anniversary. By that time much of the infrastructure of the Southern US was in ruins, although some Confederate soldiers carried on fighting until later that year. Some four million slaves were released, with their rights established during the following Reconstruction era, although progress is still ongoing. The Kit This is the fifth set from ICM depicting the American Civil War in the predominant AFV scale, so that if you have a cross-over of interests, the two types of models won’t look out of place side-by-side in your cabinet. Union & Confederate Soldiers, a Civil War arms set and a second set of Union fighters, now it is time for a second set of Confederate soldiers. This set arrives in ICM’s smaller top-opening box with captive inner lid, and inside are three sprues of grey styrene, two of which were previously included in the armament set. The instructions consist of drawings of each soldier with part numbers in black, and paint codes called out by a letter within a small red box. This relates to a table under the sprue diagrams over the page, giving colour swatches, colour names, ICM’s own paint codes, plus Revell and Tamiya codes that should enable most modellers to find an equivalent even if they don’t have any of those brands. This set, like those preceding it, contains parts for four figures of the Confederate army, who generally wore a grey tunic and pants, as opposed to the blue tunics of the Union. The figures are shown in battle, striking various action poses. One man is wearing his bedroll diagonally across his chest and is bringing the bayonet of his rifle down over his head in a stabbing motion, another is carrying out a similar action but with his butt-stock, while the third uniformed soldier is running forward with his bayoneted rifle held to the front. The fourth soldier is not in uniform, but is wearing civilian clothes and is also wearing a bedroll round his torso, defending himself with his rifle braced in both arms across his body. As always with ICM, the sculpting is excellent, especially the faces, moulding clean, with excellent natural poses and drape of materials. Parts breakdown is sensible and generally along the seamlines of garments, with separate arms, heads, torso, legs and various types of hats. Their equivalent of modern-day webbing is also present on the sprues, looking quite ungainly in comparison, as do the massive flint-lock rifles, made even longer by their bayonets. The weapons are on the two smaller sprues, along with pouches, water bottles, mugs, loose bayonets, holstered and loose pistols, swords in and out of scabbards, and even a trumpet for rudimentary battlefield communications. Conclusion If you’re interested in the American Civil War, and a lot of people are, these figures are excellent examples of the Confederate side of things, with superb-looking figures that should look even better once suitably painted. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Currently out of stock, but there’s a 10% reduction for pre-orders for the next shipment. Review sample courtesy of
  4. This is a project that I started a year or two back but stalled because I wasn't happy with my original paint choice. I wanted to break away from the box art and also the usual Corvette reds, whites and blues that are seen everywhere. After a lot of searching I found a green and gold combination that I quite liked and which looked like a reasonable match for Tamiya TS-52 Candy Lime Green and TS-75 Champagne Gold. The TS paints went on very well and I'm delighted with the finish. I tried to spray everything body colour at the same time, with the same number of coats, to try and get the best possible match. It seems to have worked out OK. The interior parts need careful masking, the remaining grey parts will be satin black. I'm not sure if that's correct but it felt like a good colour choice to contrast the green and gold. A few other parts, the chassis is just dry fitted to the underside of the floor, but it mates up beautifully. The floor is still in primer but the colour call-out suggests that it is grey so it might stay in primer. I've got to spray the other side of the rear wheel arches in body colour. The body side panels need chrome adding to the strakes. There is a lot of detail to pick out on the door cards and some large areas of satin black to spray. Compared to the 1:32 car kits I've been working on recently this feels pleasingly chunky and well engineered, I hope I've got enough mojo back to see this through to completion. The biggest struggle in my mind now is whether to build the carburettor or fuel injection engine?
  5. I built this kit OOB.The kit itself is not that bad.THe worst part are the glass parts.Epsecially the windshield.I had real trouble assemblying it.I am not quite satisfied how that turned out.I painted the model in ak real colors Enjoy the photos.
  6. The USS Hornet (CV-8), the seventh U.S. Navy ship of that name, was a U.S. Navy Yorktown Class aircraft carrier. During the Second World War, she launched the Doolittle Raid on Tokyo and participated in the Battle of Midway and the Buin-Faisi-Tonolai Raid. In the Solomon Islands campaign, she participated in the capture and defence of Guadalcanal and the battle of the Santa Cruz Islands where she was irretrievably damaged by enemy torpedoes and dive bombers. In the face of an approaching Japanese surface force, the Hornet was abandoned and then torpedoed and sunk by approaching Japanese destroyers. The Hornet was in service for a year and six days and was the last aircraft carrier of the American fleet ever sunk by enemy fire. For these actions she received four stars of service, a citation for the Doolittle Raid in 1942, and her 8 Torpedo Squadron received a Presidential Unit Commendation for extraordinary heroism for the Battle of Midway. His wreck was located in late January 2019 near the Solomon Islands. Merit stopped producing this box a year and a half ago. It's not easy to find a used one now at a reasonable price. This box is replaced by the Yorktown at Trumpeter, but there is no kit available at the moment as far as I know... I added the MK1 kit and the MK1 wooden deck kit (also with PE inside). I've been working on forward for two days now. I find that there are some details missing, but the reason, at least for the foredeck (it's not really a forecastle) is probably that there are no pictures of this part of the ship to my knowledge. Only a few shots from outside can help a little. Moreover this part is under the flight deck and less visible compared to the rest. So you have to have a little imagination... The front end of the Yorktown CV-5, not necessarily identical. Some pictures of the progress: Installation of the portholes, then of a transparent rhodoïd behind. Improvement of the shingles by simulating a shingle with a file, few details... The front AA platform, the shielding is not easy to mount, it must be perfectly formed to fit . I've added two small lattice platforms for the cannons. I also added a ladder because nothing is planned at Merit to go up there... Luckily, I still have some Bismarck. The two front paravans. I counted 9 pieces for one... I've added some access hatches on the deck. I have also reproduced the soldering lines of the deck and the forward block with the cutter. The port door has since been straightened. I don't know what the two holes in the deck near the capstans are for, a mystery, I'll hide them with an access plate probably... I still have the anchor lashings to install. (Scratch) Compared to the plan of the Yorktown, two mooring bollards are missing on the rear of the manoeuvring range. Trumpeter's ship must never dock... There's scratch in the air... PS: A little reminder of the marine terms used especially on the guys. This book has followed me throughout my career... A gold mine.
  7. Hi everyone, to present myself i thought, why not posting some pictures of my finished models, so there you have it. This is my 1/48 Corsair "White 110" (wheel bay colour is not correct snd one of the landing gear is not perfectly flat, i corrected that after i took the pictures) Extras: -Decals are from Techmod -Wheels are from Arma Hobby I hope that you guys will like it ! Cheers from Italy👋
  8. Hi I am not sure if this has been discussed here before, but I am after hand held weapons at 1/24 scale for my revel hugie helicopter I hAve figures from the tamiya rally crew kit but spanners would not really hurt Charlie. If any one could point me in the right direction to get some M16 or browning that would be great.
  9. Another upcoming release from Takom. The American M9 ACE Armored Combat Earthmover. It'll probably be impossible to over weather this one Andy
  10. XV408 seen at RAF Halton on the Parade Square, few months before my pass out parade. XV408 RAF Halton. by Radleigh Bushell, on Flickr XV408 RAF Halton. by Radleigh Bushell, on Flickr XV408 RAF Halton. by Radleigh Bushell, on Flickr Two from Brize Norton Saudi C-130 1623 by Radleigh Bushell, on Flickr Saudi C-130 1623 by Radleigh Bushell, on Flickr Mildenhall Air Fete, but not sure which one.. Must have been in the late 1990's, so I'd have been around 15 or 16. XV246 by Radleigh Bushell, on Flickr Starlifter by Radleigh Bushell, on Flickr B52 by Radleigh Bushell, on Flickr B1 by Radleigh Bushell, on Flickr and the last four are from Willow Grove, Florida. I was 17 when I took these.. Piasecki HUP-2 "Retriever" by Radleigh Bushell, on Flickr North American FJ-2/-3 Fury by Radleigh Bushell, on Flickr Convair YF2Y-1 Sea Dart by Radleigh Bushell, on Flickr Vought F7U Cutlass by Radleigh Bushell, on Flickr
  11. Afternoon chaps, Now it has most certainly been a while since I have posted here, after having a break from modelling over Christmas. However, while getting back into the routine I have managed to bash up this old thing It's the first model I've made in a couple of months and the first I've made with clear parts/transparencies so the windscreen didn't turn out as I expected. It is also the first model with the "Wet Mud" effect using filler, brown acrylic paint and Klear. It is built completely OOB apart from some additional extras in the trailer found in the Spares Box. The next thing I'm building is a J-35J Saab Draken and a LCVP boat Specs: Willys Jeep With Trailer (USA) 1st US Infantry Division Normandy, France 6th June 1944 D-DAY Here she is Sorry if the pictures aren't up to scratch in quality, they were taken on my new iPad but they're alright I guess Thanks for looking fellas please comment with improvements etc. ~Dylan
  12. Along comes someone with a link http://www.viralnova.com/takes-pictures-of-model-town/ Showing stuff that makes you want to bury your head. I think this has been linked before? But it's well worth another look. Pete
  13. Pearl Harbor to Coral Sea Book by AIRfile The surprise attack on Pearl Harbor, on the island of O’ahu, Hawaii, by Japanese naval aircraft on the morning of December 7 1941 brought the United States into the war which, until then mainly involved the forces of Britain against Germany and Italy. Immediately following this attack, Japanese forces attacked Thailand, Malaya, the Philippines, Guam, Wake Island and Midway. These attacks brought Britain and the United States to declare war on Japan and became known as the Pacific War. Over the following weeks Japan extended its operations, invading Singapore, Sumatra, Hong Kong, Burma and New Guinea. They also mount attacks on Port Moresby which was only approximately 500 miles (800 Km) north of Australia. The Book This book describes the events of the first six months of the Pacific War; the Far Eastern element of World War Two, and the initial chapter covers the lead-up to and including the attack on Pearl Harbor. When the Pacific War is mentioned, the general theme points to the United States versus Japan, however many countries were involved in the fighting in that area. Within these pages the reader will find the colour schemes and markings of the aircraft of all the main combatants that were involved in the first six months of the Pacific War; from the pre-emptive strike against Pearl Harbor at the beginning of December 1941 to the Battle of the Coral Sea in May 1942. There are explanatory texts, included with colour illustrations, describing the events; development of the colour schemes and markings of the aircraft of all main combatants that were involved in the first six months of the Pacific War from Dec 7 1941 to the Battle of the Coral Sea in May 1942. These include British; US; Japanese; French Indo-Chinese; Thai; Dutch; Chinese and Australian air forces. Neil Robinson has set the layout in order to present the aircraft details by theatre of conflict; with encompassing sections on: Pearl Harbor; French-Indo China; Hong Kong, Malaya and Singapore; the Battle for the Philippines; Guam and Wake Island; the Dutch East Indies and New Guinea; China, Burma and the American Volunteer Group (AVG); and Australia – the Darwin Raids. The book finishes with the aircraft involved in the 5 day Battle of the Coral Sea. There is also a colour profile of a civilian Douglas DC-3, of Hawaiian Airlines, which was strafed at Honolulu Airport during the Pearl Harbor attacks. An additional chapter is incorporated within the sections above and describes the aircraft of the Doolittle Raid. This section includes a narrative, describing the reasoning and build up of the raid, plus the fates of the aircrew and aircraft. Five of the sixteen US Army’s B.25 Mitchell twin-engined bombers are shown in profile depicting their colours and markings. Conclusion This is a very well presented book and is designed with the modeller in mind. The subject aircraft, which are nicely illustrated by Peter Scott, are laid out in full colour profile, plus some have full 4-drawing profile and plan, and each incorporates a short history of the unit and squadron. There is also a breakdown of the colour scheme and markings included, many of them illustrated here for the first time. There are approximately 240 colour illustrations, consisting 77 Japanese; 75 United States; 43 British (inc Australian); 10 AVG; plus various Thai; French Indo-Chinese; Philippine aircraft and also one civilian airliner. The reference information, within the chapters and alongside the many illustrations, appears to be well researched and includes details from dozens of reference books; magazines and from private sources. There are plenty of different types of aircraft depicted here and should be a real asset for the modeller of WW2 aircraft, especially those of the Far Eastern campaign. It is informative and colourful and I thoroughly recommend it to be held in the modeller's reference library. Review sample courtesy of Kindly mention Britmodeller.com to the supplier when making enquiries or orders .
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