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Found 3 results

  1. Bf.109Z-I Zwilling (4809) 1:4 A&A Models by Modelsvit As the tide of war turned against the Nazis during WWII, a need for powerful and heavily armed interceptors was identified, and in order to shorten development time, it was decided that an existing type should be the basis from which to develop a new aircraft. The Germans already had experience of creating Zwilling or Twin aircraft by mating two airframes together, using a straight centre-wing section, which would also be a useful load-carrying area into the bargain. The 109Z was essentially two Bf.109Fs joined by the aforementioned centre wing section, a single elevator panel suspended between the two rudders, and the pilot in the port cockpit, the starboard aperture faired over for aerodynamics, and IIRC it could also hold additional fuel. An initial prototype was completed in 1943, but this was damaged during an Allied air raid, which led to the project being cancelled in 1944 to concentrate scarce resources on other projects that were considered more worthy by the higher echelons. The twin Mustang created by North American in the USA was basically proof that the concept had some validity, although it kept two cockpits to split the workload between the pilot and radar operator, and it had a relatively short career thanks to the advances being made in jet-engine technology. Incidentally, there is a kit of the F-82 from Modelsvit in 1:48 scale. The Kit This is a new tool from A&A Models/Modelsvit, although it may share a few sprues with their other Bf.109 kits in this scale, but I don’t have any of those, so can’t say definitively. It arrives in a top-opening box, and inside are a surprising thirteen sprues in grey styrene, a clear sprue, a sheet of pre-cut vinyl masks for the canopy and wheels, decal sheet plus another small instrument dial decal sheet, and a portrait A4 instruction booklet with spot colour on glossy paper. This is a short-to-medium run kit, and as such the sprue runners are slightly utilitarian, and there is a little flash here and there. You also can’t expect the same level of detail from these types of kits, as they aren’t able to use the advanced production methods available to larger companies. That said, the detail is quite impressive, and with the inclusion of engines, bombs and a well-appointed cockpit there is plenty to go at, and if you want to improve on what’s there, there’s a good foundation to work upon. Construction begins with a choice of whether to pose the engine cowlings open (Version 2) or closed (Version 1), which will mean some changes to the cockpit and the engines, which will have more detail added to it, plus some alterations to the fuselage halves. Speaking of the cockpit, it is the first assembly to be made, starting with the seat, which bears a passing resemblance to a modern racing seat, with two sides added to the base. A double trim-wheel is mounted on its base, and the two rudder pedals are placed on another base, as is the control column. The floor of the cockpit has two notches cut from it for version 2, with spacing and size given in a scrap diagram before the sub-assemblies are mounted on it, followed by a small instrument bundle on the floor, the rear bulkhead, fuel line and the seat. A blank cockpit floor is also created for the faired over fuselage as part of the process. The gunsight has a clear glass part glued to it, and it is glued into the front of the instrument panel, using either the part with moulded-in details or a flat panel with decal. I’d be inclined to try the decal over the engraved panel to maximise the detail. The cockpit sidewalls are moulded into the fuselage halves, and are augmented by more small parts and a decal for a sloped box with twin dials on it. The engines are next, and whether you choose Version 1 or 2, you’ll still need to make up two engines, just with different parts. The closed cowlings require the minimal number of parts to fill the area, while the exposed engines are much more detailed with many more parts, including the supercharger “conch”, oil tank, engine mounts, and ancillaries behind the block. All the engines have separately moulded exhaust stubs, although they don’t have hollow tips, so black paint would be a wise move to create the illusion of depth. The section of the fuselage in front of the cockpit is a separate insert to which the instrument panel is mated, using a different part depending on whether you are exposing the engines or not. With all the sub-assemblies built and painted, the fuselages can be closed up around the cockpit, floor of the covered cockpit and the two engines, with the occupied cockpit also having an insert placed behind the pilot’s head. The closed cowlings are fitted with a horseshoe-shaped oil reservoir and a plate behind the spinner, then the supercharger intake can be added to both fuselages, the fairing is added over the empty cockpit, and the sills and instrument panel are fitted to the full cockpit. For the open cowlings, you must first remove the forward section of each fuselage half according to the scrap diagrams, then close them up around the two cockpits and insert the detailed engine at the front. Both versions have the rudder inserted in the tail fin, which appears to have some leeway for offsetting should the urge take you. Incidentally, the elevator is moulded into its panel, but scoring a line along the hinge-point should allow you to offset it if you wish. The lower wing is a single part that spans both fuselages, and has the bay walls added to it before the three upper wing segments are glued over it, the fuselages are inserted into the gaps, and the elevator panel is slotted in between the two fuselages by the usual slot-and-tab method, although it will be easier to do before the fuselages are mounted on the wings. From here on in, the instruction steps get more complex, as there is two of almost every sub-assembly, starting with the radiator housings and their cooling flaps under the wings, which have the cores made up first, placed in the recesses and then faired over with separate intake and outlet flaps. The ailerons, leading-edge slats and the flaps with their separate radiator sections are also glued to the wings at this point, then the cockpit glazing is fixed, with a choice of two styles of windscreen, head armour inside the canopy opener, and the fixed rear that has a hole for the aerial mast. The clear parts are sufficient for the job, but they are a little distorted near the edge of the panes, although they should look better after a dip in some Klear/Future or its equivalent. Moving back to the underside, the cannon gondolas under each wing are made up from two halves plus a barrel each, and are slotted into the wings outboard of the gear bays, then in the centre a short pylon to carry the included bomb is fitted on a slightly raised fairing that covers the leading-edge, and has separate anti-sway braces. The landing gear is standard Bf.109, although their positions were changed slightly to cope with the different angles of joining two aircraft together. The four gear legs are made in pairs and are a single strut with separate oleo-scissor, captive bay door, and two-part wheel, while the tail wheels are a single part that are trapped between the two halves of their yoke. All the gear legs are inserted into sockets in their gear bays, and a small door is inserted between the two paired main gear legs after cutting the part in half as per the scrap diagram. The closed cowling version has the oil cooler under the chins made up from a three-part radiator that is inserted inside the fairing, which is then placed in the lower cowling and glued into the fuselage. A number of small intakes are added round the cowlings, the rear spinner plate is slipped over the prop-shaft, followed by the three-blade props and a cap that is glued in place to allow the blades to spin if you wish. The spinner is added over the top to complete the nose. For the open cowling, a support is placed between the bulkhead and oil reservoir cowling over the engine, then the separate cowling parts are detailed with intakes and supercharger intake, then fitted with bracing struts and glued to the centreline, while the lower cowling with the chin intake is glued underneath hanging by one of its sides. The props are built in the same way for both options, as is the pitot probe on the port wingtip, both tips also having clear lights on the sprue. Markings There was only one real example of a Zwilling Bf.109, so your only historically accurate choice is to paint your model in RLM02, but then you could always go off-book and make up your own scheme for a speculative in-service machine, based on real schemes, or covered in polka-dots if you prefer. The decal sheet allows you to depict the real machine, and any other option is up to you. Decals are well-printed with good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas, and various instrument decals on the sheet, plus another on the small sheet that accompanies it. The Swastikas for the tail are printed in halves for you to use or leave off as you see fit, or as your local laws dictate. There are a substantial number of stencils included for you to use too. The masking sheet includes masks for the wheels and the canopy, with the individual pane numbers called out at the bottom of the profiles on the back page. Conclusion The Bf.109Z is an interesting dead-end project that appeals to this modeller, and it’s nice to be able to build one in injection moulded styrene at long last, but bear in mind that it won’t be shake-and-bake. Regardless, every home should have one! Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of
  2. USN 40mm Bofors Twin mounts 1:350 Master Models We’ve had quite a few new sets in from Master Models, mostly turned brass or aluminium, yet with these sets they have added another dimension with the inclusion of resin and photo etched parts. The resin and etch seem to have been produced by North Star and incorporated into the sets. The new boxes are great too, with the resin parts in their own compartments in the foam for added protection. [SM-350-091] This set contains six version 1 mounts, each mount is made up from no less than seventeen parts, so get your optivisors and finest tweezers out, as you’re going to need them. Once finished though they will look amazing when complete. The resin gun mount is fitted with a resin front piece and two PE seats complete with footrests. The gun slide is then rolled to shape and fitted to the mount, along with two hand wheels. The twin guns are built using a resin breech, two brass barrels, PE sights and sight covers and a PE elevation arc. The gun assembly is then attached to the mounting, which is then finished off with the rear mounted railings. The set also include a director sighting pedestal, made from a resin pedestal, shoulder guides and deck mounting ring. [SM-350-092] – This set is for version 2 of the twin 40mm Bofors mounts and is the same build as the version above, with a different rear mounted railing, which is complete with ammunition storage racks. Conclusion I have to say, I really like these sets, the level of detail is amazing, if rather fiddly and eye watering. They will certainly add that extra something to a model. Review sample courtesy of Piotr at
  3. Thought I'd already started a post. Bit along the way now. I've made the odd error and for the most part enjoyed it. I have decided for the most part that a lot of exterior photoetch isn't for me. I don't have steady enough hands to apply them (little antenna things etc) on the odd occasion I was tempted to drop kick the lot into the River Wear. However I persevered. The plane: currently has no seats thanks to the poor instructions which meant I ended up cutting bits I shouldn't, as they helpfully don't show the seats from the front, just angled pictures of the back and sides! Some stores The two holes you can see are for 2mm x 1mm magnets. Only the ASRAAMS won't have them, allows me to switch things up a bit. The plane has had two coats of pledge on the top, need to get the underside done, decal and weather! While I wait for it to dry I'll finish off my Apache and look at making a proper start on my supacat jackal.
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