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  1. Hi all. With my keen interest in fire trucks, I couldn't resist this kit. I have seen videos of this kit online showing it with lights and blues and two's, etc, and have been impressed. Usually I download the assembly instructions a month or so before buying any kit that I want to add lights to so that I can work out if it is possible or not. Alas, I just could not find any instructions posted online at all so this will be built with one eye shut and with a lot of luck and hope. One thing that really impressed me was that the main chassis was in one piece, so no worry about getting it dead square, no cross members to fiddle with, etc. Unfortunately this kit is going to take me a long time to do as I have a very busy period coming up at work and may not progress as much as I'd like to. I do not have much patience, so this will be a challenge in itself. So here we go. I thank you for your patience in advance should you wish to follow this build. The impressive box lid. I wonder if mine will look like this? Work station ready to go. Tea, phone and cigs at the ready. All washed and dried and priority items at the top. Everything that is possible to fit to the chassis before spraying. The main powerhouse, assembled, sprayed and ready to place. The chassis, sprayed and the engine fitted........... Thanks for looking.
  2. Hi While renewing all of the pictures of the builds that I have done because of this Photobucket saga, I came across a few pictures of the build in progress for this kit and thought it may be an idea to post them. They may be helpful to others who have this kit and want to do something similar. The link to the finished build can be found in the RFI section or by clicking HERE
  3. Hi everyone. It's been a while since I last posted as I've had to concentrate on getting my new design business going. I have just finished this nice little number from Meng. I haven't done one of their kits before and wanted to see how well they were moulded, etc. I must say the extra cost seems to be worth it as there was no sign of flashing and the plastic compound was nice to work with. Detail was pretty good though some chrome parts would have been appreciated (especially the grill section). For the price this was a disappointment as Revell include it in some of their kits which are cheaper. Anyway, below are some pictures of certain sections created but before fitting. I didn't have time to photograph the build step-by-step but took some to show some of the interior details before they were hid by the assembly. The finished product will soon be on the RFI forum but I have included a taster below. Thanks for looking.
  4. Hi folks I know most people are not so keen on modern vehicles but I managed to get this kit for half price and couldn't resist. My last truck kit was the Iveco Stralis Truck Cab that I added lights to HERE I was interested in adding a trailer to it with connected lighting but I could not justify spending all that money on just a trailer when I could buy a kit with much more work and parts. Anyway, I saw this kit and thought that it would give me the perfect opportunity to add lights to both the cab and trailer. I am making more and more kits by Italeri as the quality is quite good and the prices are reasonable. The plastic seems more brittle than Revell and some of the part connections to the sprues can be tough to cut through but, overall, the quality and detail is good. The connection between the cab and trailer is just a 6 pin connector for when I have to separate them for cleaning, etc. This is the result. I hope it inspires others to have a go. I have posted a video HERE Thanks for looking folks. Any comments welcome. First, the impressive box: Side lights on: Side and brake lights on: Trailer reversing lights: Female driver wearing HV jacket and seat belts: Head, side and high beam/flasher on: Internal lights on: Notice the curtains on the left side of the cab. The top bunk is folded upwards as in the real thing and I have added a folded ladder. I will try to get a picture of this. Preparation of the dash, with Sat Nav, etc. The hose connections:
  5. Hi Everyone. It's good to be back. I wanted to have a break from building something and adding lights and so decided to make something simple and relaxing. If any of you feel like doing the same................do not get this kit!!! Before building this I checked out other members builds and saw how amazing they were. I read about the quality of the plastic and the flaws people found so as to learn any lessons beforehand. Why didn't I take more notice? I've been building kits for over 48 years (all makes) and this must be the worst. The injection mould must have been over 100 years old and the operator must have had to use several cans of releasing spray to stop the plastic from sticking to the mould. Firstly, there was so much flashing on nearly every part and secondry, no matter how much I scrubbed the plastic paint just would not adhere. Even primer caused problems. Many of the parts were bent and the moulding marks were in full view so could not be ingnored. If you like a challenge, get this kit. You will use all of the skills you have learned in building it. Anyway, rant over. It was from a Christmas present list that I received from Santa. The good thing is that it was typical Airfix plastic in that it was quite strong and nice to cut and the decals were first class (one of the best so far). Overall it looks pleasant to look at (not too closely) and will go well with my Routemaster Bus. It is not my best but, under the circumstances, I was just glad to finish it and decided to be brave and put it on the RFI forum. If they ever decided to bring this out with a new mould I would very probably buy it again as it is a nice kit to look at. Hope you like the pictures and I salute those who have built it before me. Thanks for looking folks and look forward to any views, good or bad.
  6. ZiL-131 timber truck, ICM 1/35
  7. Hello This is my first post on this forum. I want to present some pictures of one of my my first models. This is the Freightliner version Dump produced by Italeri 1:24. Model finished in 2015. I added a little more detail to the engine (wires etc.) Enjoy the photos. Cheers Mike
  8. While waiting for the electrical equipment to finish my Schlingmann HLF20 fire truck (here) I have been mulling over and over as to what my next build will be. I like to try new builds that I have not done before which offer a challenge to me and these are getting less and less to choose from (within my budget and available space). I could not find any stockists of any decent buses or fire truck kits so decided to go off the page and look at military again (having built the GTK Boxer here). My lovely daughters offered to put some money towards a new kit as a Fathers Day present and so I opted for this kit. I have not made a Trumpeter kit before but all the parts seem to be in good condition and of good construction. There seems to be a few variations of this build but, not really knowing much about military vehicles, I have decided that I will probably build this kit 'out of the box'. As others may know, this may change as I go along and as for lighting (most of my builds have lighting) I will have to see what is possible. One thing I am already looking at is that the wheels seem to be in a fixed position. I don't like that so.....................................(here I go already). It has photo etched parts so that will be a whole new challenge and I have bought some 'accessories' to create atmosphere for the finished model. I may decide to put the GTK Boxer on the trailor but may opt for buying a modern tank. I hope you find some interest in this build.
  9. This is my finished build of the Faun Tank Transporter and Leopard 2 A5 that many have followed in the WIP section. It is pretty much 'out of the box' with just a few mods to give it some atmosphere. I hope you enjoy and thanks for looking. More photo's available HERE
  10. HAD Models is to release a 1/48th URAL-4320 APA-5D Russian standard modern airfield starter vehicle resin kit - ref. 348002 Source: http://www.hadmodels.com/348002_ural_4320_apa_5d_indito_kocsi_148_elorendelheto_20_os_aron_1481 V.P.
  11. M1078 from Trumpeter, the whole is model out-of-box) Painted with tamiya and lifecolor, weathered with AMMO and AK)
  12. Since I'm waiting for decals to finish off my F-8s, I'm building a truck. I was commissioned by the KW saleman who sold the actual truck, part of a fleet to Morgan Fuels. Morgan hauls bulk fuel for Esso in southern and central Ontario and sometimes Manitoba. The model is a First Gear KW T880. I was lucky and found it on evibay. I say lucky because the truck originally had a lowboy trailer, the seller had two that he kept the trailers from. I also found an International Durastar with the near correct tank. Making one from the two. I hope to sell the IH and the leftover KW parts and get some money back. The pictures ahow the actual truck(will be #49)and the other shows what I am starting with. Had some fun with the lift axle before removing it, ever wonder what a KW would look like with hydraulics? Here's where it is right now. Lots more trimming than I expected. Lengthened the rear of the tank, this covers the hose reels. When I glue the top and bottom of the tank body, I missed seeing that it should have been a bit taller. No way to cut this up so I had to ad frame rails under the original tank frame. Added to the rear bulkhead, made a new end cap. I couldn't decide to move the under body cabinets back or just cut them off and make new ones, well I cut them off. Most of the worst parts done now. The bag of sand was inside the tank, I guess just to weigh it down for the die cast effect? Also shown is the test page for the decals.
  13. I discovered one of these in my stash hidden as a freebie inside another kit and thought it might look nice next to my Judy one day. It's all sealed and in good order minus the box so a nice addition to the 'shelf breakers'. Haswgawa Toyota Starter Truck Gb http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MjYzWDUwMA==/z/dqAAAOxy4dNS2TTG/$_35.JPG http://www.hasegawausa.com/product-images/hsgs1817bs01t-lg.jpg (I see once again it's converting pix to urls...pita!) Obviously not a popular subject (only found 1 BM build pic, although hints of at least 2 more) but I am hoping someone can point to pix, plans etc of the originals. Google bought up 2 very poor quality pix but little else. Also see there's a tanker that shows up occasionally. Perhaps a fleabay/market hunt is in order... At least it will be different to the current fad of RAF WW2 vehicles.
  14. The Toyota G series of trucks was built in huge numbers by the Japanese with the GB alone amassing 19870 units between 1938 and 1942. Hasegawa first released this 1/72 version complete with Hucks Starter in 1978. Unfortunately it's noted as 'retired' on their site but it pops up occasionally from the usual 2nd hand suppliers. I was planning on starting it in a week or two but plans change and out it came ahead of schedule. So is it worth building?...lets find out..
  15. Hi all this is my last creature: ICM 1/35th ZIL-131 truck in the UN version. Scene elements (street lamp, bins, barrels, etc...) from Migproductions. Painted and weathered with Tamiya, AK interacive, Ammo, Vallejo and Model Color. Hope you like it. Cheers Nacho
  16. Zil 131 Heavy Utility Truck Revell 1:35 History The ZiL-131 is a general purpose military truck. It's production commenced in 1966. It replaced the previous ZiL-157. Production ceased in 1994 with nearly 1 000 000 of these military trucks produced. Despite it's age the ZiL-131 is widely used by Russian military, as well as a number of other countries. Vehicle has a conventional layout. The baseline model of the ZiL-131 is a cargo truck. It has a payload capacity of 3 500 kg off-road and 5 000 kg on hard surface roads. It is used to carry troops, cargo and other military equipment. Cargo area is covered with bows and canvas cover. Vehicle can also tow trailers or artillery pieces with a maximum weight of 4 000 kg off-road and 6 500 kg on hard surface roads. An all-metal cab of this truck provides seating for the driver and two passengers. The ZiL-131 is powered by a V8 petrol engine, developing 150 hp. Engine is coupled with a 5-speed manual gearbox. Vehicle has a full-time all-wheel drive; however the front axle can be disconnected on hard surface roads. It is also fitted with a central tyre inflation system. A self-recovery winch was fitted on some models. The Model This is a re-pop of the ICM kit released in 2014 and comes in the rather weak open ended box we’ve come to expect from Revell, but with a nice artists impression of the truck in use. Inside, there are six sprues of dark caramel coloured sprues, a sprue of clear, eight vinyl tyres and a small sheet of decals. The parts are well moulded, with no sign of flash and fewer moulding pips than normally found in these types of kit. While the parts look good, the moulded details appear a little soft and indistinct in places. As with most trucks the build begins with the chassis, but before the work can begin on those there are a number of sub-assemblies required. These include the front, middle and rear cross members, transfer box frame, transfer box and air accumulator tanks. The chassis rails have the front leaf springs and rear suspension mounts pre-moulded into them. With the main chassis structure assembled and the sub-assemblies fitted, the rear corner bumper parts and towing hook are attached along. The fuel tanks are then assembled, each made up of three parts including the fill cap and these are then fitted to their support trays which are in turn attached to the out chassis rails, as are the rear engine mounts. The engine itself is a good balance of detail and ease of build. The gearbox and block are provided in two halves, with the drive shaft moulded onto one half. The single piece cylinder head is fitted, along with the fuel filter, oil filter, oil cooler, alternator and inlet manifolds. The three accessory drive belts are fitted to the front and finished off with the fan. The completed engine is then fitted into the chassis before the large two piece air filter unit is attached. The exhaust system comes as one long part to which the other half of the silence is attached before the system is attached to the chassis. There is an option to fit a large winch to the front of the chassis and this is made up of eight parts, just make sure the winch drive shaft is connected to the transfer box before gluing the unit in place. With the winch in place the radiator is attached, followed by the front bumper which consists of five parts. The rear suspension consists of the two rear axles/differentials which are then joined together with the two leaf springs. Each of the six wheels are single piece units to which an air regulator is fitted, followed by the vinyl tyre. The rear wheels are fitted to the rear suspension after which the two gear housings with drive shafts are attached to the top of the differential. The whole assembly is then attached to the suspension mounts on the chassis followed by the fitting of the suspension arms and a lower cross member. The front differential is assembled from two halves and fitted with the gear housing, drive shaft and steering rack, before being fitted to the front leaf springs along with the wheels, shock absorbers and suspension arms. The spare wheel is fitted with a swing arm style fitting then into the two piece wheel cage which also contains the outer panels of the generator box which is finished off with the fitting of the other panels and the whole assembly fitted to the top of the chassis. Moving onto the cab which is made up of windscreen/front valance, two bonnet sides plus floor pan, and fitted out with the steering column, steering wheel, individual foot pedals, gear sticks, and the seats, which are each made up of the squab, backrest and two armrests/support frames. The rear bulkhead is then fitted with the rear window and attached to the rear of the cab. This is then followed by the windscreen, wiper and roof. The cab doors are separate and poseable whether the modeller wants them opened or closed. They are made up of the door, “glass” and door card, to which the window winder, door handle and grab handle are attached. The doors are then fitted to the cab. The two front wheel arches are fitted with the large headlight cluster into which the clear parts are added, and then attached to the front chassis before the cab sub-assembly is positioned over them. The bonnet and front grille are then fitted, completing the front end of the model. The final few sections in the instructions deal with the assembly of the truck bed. The bed itself is fitted on the underside with the lateral and longitudinal support beams then, on the upperside with the front, side and rear panels, and has the option of having the interior bench seats posed either folded or extended. The underside rear is fitted out with the rear mudflaps, reflectors and the division board. With the bed assembly attached to the chassis it’s only a matter of attaching the wing mirrors, spotlight, exterior door handles and the tilt rails, which unfortunately come moulded together so there isn’t any way of making a tilt other than scratchbuilding one, thereby finishing the build. Decals The small decal sheet contains markings for four vehicles these are:- NVA, (East German Army) 1980 GSTD/GSSD (Soviet Army), East Germany, 1980 Russian Army, 2000 Soviet Army, Afghanistan, 1980 The sheet includes instrument decals, division markings, unit markings and vehicle identification numbers. Conclusion This appears to be a much simpler build than some of the recent truck releases with seen. That said it still looks like a great kit of this rugged looking truck. Whilst not having that much in the way of different paint schemes, it would make a great practice piece for heavy weathering. It’ll also make for a different quick build between making heavy armour. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  17. KRAZ-260 Heavy Utility Truck Takom 1:35 History Production of the KrAZ-260 began some time during the early 1980s when it replaced the earlier KrAZ-255B on the production lines at the Kremenchug Motor Vehicle Plant. However, the vehicle was not disclosed to the general public until 1985 when examples were displayed towing 152-mm 2A36 nuclear-capable field guns during a Red Square parade - the KrAZ-260 can tow loads of up to 10 tons when fully loaded (30 tons when empty). The Red Square example had an open body equipped with forward-facing bench seats although this had been a parade configuration. The normal body uses a conventional cargo body with tailgate all covered by the usual tilt over bows. A winch is a standard fitting under the cargo body and can be employed for either forward or rearwards recovery, including self-recovery. The overall appearance of the KrAZ-260 is similar to that of the earlier KrAZ-255B but the bonnet is more angular to accommodate the turbocharged diesel engine, and the overall dimensions are slightly larger. As far as can be determined the KrAZ-260 was produced for military service only and as apparently not been delivered to armed forces outside the Soviet Union. The Model The kit comes in a sturdy top opening box with a artistic impression of the vehicle in use in a very snowy environment. Opening the box reveals seven sprues of caramel coloured styrene, one sprue of clear styrene, a small photo etched brass sheet, seven vinyl tyres and a small decal sheet. The mouldings for all the parts are superb, with no sign of flash imperfections and very few moulding pips. As with most truck kits there are a lot of parts that will probably never be seen, particularly the very detailed chassis, suspension and engine, but in my view it’s better to have them than not. The build begins with the assembly of the gearbox, which is provided in two halve, and then finished off with a sump plate; this is followed by the two part engine block to which the gearbox is attached. Since the truck is powered by a V8 diesel there are two cylinder heads to assemble, again each of two halves, to which the injector rails and coils are attached. These are then fitted to the engine block, followed by the alternator, water pump pulley and fuel filter. The exhaust manifolds are next, followed by the CDR valve and oil filter. The turbocharger is assembled from three parts, the turbine housing, compressor housing and attachment plate; the assembly is then fitted with the outlet pipes. The completed sub-assembly is then fitted to the engine with each outlet pipe being attached to the intake manifolds and the turbo intake to the exhaust manifold. The oil cooler is then fitted to the engine block, along with the fan, accessory belt pulley and the exhaust pipe, to which a two part silencer section is fitted to the end, is attached to the turbo. The next part of the build is the assembly of the chassis. This consists of the two long chassis rails, to which the engine assembly is fitted at the front along with the radiator, whilst two thirds to the rear a cross member is attached. The front differential gear housing is assembled from two halves, to which a two part gear cover and universal joint are attached. Each wheel hub is made up of an inner and outer steering ball joint, hub backing plate, inner axle, and brake drum. These are then fitted to the ends of the differential along with the brake accumulators and steering rack. The two leaf spring parts are then fitted via four U bolts and clamps, much like the real parts. The front axle is then fitted to the chassis, as are the shock absorbers, front crossbeam, made up of four parts including the front towing eye, radiator fans housing and grille. There is a cable drum affixed between two crossbeams and fitted with a motor and control lever, this is then fitted to the rear of the chassis along with a curved crossbeam further forward. The transfer box is assembled and fitted just aft of the front axle and connected to the engine and front differential with two drive shafts. The rear suspension is now assembled from two suspension plates, two leaf springs, four U bolts and clamps. To this the two part rear differentials, which are 90o opposed when compared with the front, are fitted, along with their associated gear housings each made up of four parts, drive shafts, with separate universal joints, and suspension bump stops. The rear wheel hubs are much simpler affairs, made up of only an inner and outer brake drum and an internal axle. Once these are fitted to the differentials the completed rear suspension is attached to the rear chassis. The next stage includes the building of a number of sub-assemblies; these include the twelve part spare wheel cage which is attached to the six part generator housing, two seven part accumulator bottles and racks, two five part fuel tanks, six part oil tank and its rack, plus the three part cab foot step and six part tool box. These are then attached to their respective positions on the chassis along with the rear towing hook and end plate, reflectors and their outriggers and the rear lower crossbeam. With the chassis and suspension complete the build moves onto the truck bed. This is made up from the main bed, back panel and two side panels and rear panel completed with two footsteps. On the underside there are seven structural braces fitted, whilst on the back and sides there are twenty four tilt ties. Also on the underside the four mudflaps are attached, two forward of the rear wheels and two aft each with their support rods. The front mudguards are styrene whilst the rears are PE bent to shape. The completed bed is then fitted to the top of the chassis and the spare wheel, made up of a vinyl tyre plus inner and out hubs is slid into its cage on the right hand side. The last major assembly, the cab and bonnet begins with the windscreen frame/front bulkhead is fitted with the two windscreens, air vent panel, washer bulbs and wipers. On the inside of the bulkhead the inner panel/instrument binnacle is attached and fitted with the steering column, steering wheel, and pedal plate. The doors are then assembled from the door frame, “glass” and separate door card, whilst the rear bulkhead is fitted with the rear screen. The front and rear bulkheads plus the doors are then joined together before the roof, with its associated light fittings is attached. The interior floor is then fitted out with the bench like passenger seat, made up of separate squad and back which is then fitted to the base via the seat frame. The drivers seat which consists of the frame, squab, back and adjustment lever is fitted to the floor via a five piece spring like framework. The interior is completed with the fitting of the gearstick and the whole assembly is glued to the to the cab assembly, which is finished off with the addition of the two wing mirrors and there mounting supports. The bonnet wings are provided as slide moulded parts to which the separate front sections which include the light clusters pre-moulded are glued in place. The wings are then attached to the front lower grille before the upper name plate and the side grilles are fitted, after which the bonnet if attached. If you wish to have the bonnet raised to show off the engine you will have to scratchbuild your own hinges and gas struts. The headlight “glass” parts are then fitted before the cab and bonnet assemblies are attached to the chassis and the four part front bumper fitted. The finishing touches are the assembly of the six wheels, each with a vinyl tyre, inner and outer hubs, which are then fitted to the axles. Each of the vinyl tyres is very well moulded and look realistically chunky, but they do have a cross shaped section that needs to be cut away before the hubs can be fitted, but it shouldn’t take too much to clean them up, especially as the hub rims will cover the areas concerned. Decals The small decal sheet provides decals for four different colour schemes, two for the Russian Army, one green overall and one in a white and green camouflage, a Slovak Army example and one for the German Democratic Republic. Whilst there aren’t any external placards the instrument faces are provided. Conclusion Whilst this is quite a complicated kit to build in that there are a lot of detail parts, mainly for the chassis, it looks to have been well thought out and designed. It shouldn’t be too hard for anyone other than a novice modeller to build a great looking model. I imagine some will probably want to replace the vinyl tyres with resin ones, but it really isn’t necessary as the kits items are more than sufficient. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of UK Distributors for
  18. 1938 Berna Saurer 4CT1D 4x2 Cargo Truck, as used by the Swiss Army. Pics thanks to Rich Ellis.
  19. US Diamond T 968A Cargo Truck Mirror Models 1:35 History The Diamond T Model 968 Truck, Cargo, 4 ton, 6x6 (G509) was produced during World War II, beginning in 1941. Early production used civilian instruments and other parts. The designation was changed to Model 968A when military standard instruments and components were substituted. It was produced with both the closed metal cab and, by 1943, open soft-top military cab. The final version was 968B. Its military role was as an artillery prime mover and for general cargo transport. The Diamond-T 968 Truck, Cargo, 4 ton, 6x6 was powered by the 6 cylinder, 529 cu. in. Hercules RXC engine that developed 106 hp. mated to a five speed manual transmission and two speed transfer case. The truck weighed 18,450 pounds and could tow 25,000 pounds. The Model The kit comes in a glossy top opening box with a depiction of the truck in use on the top. On opening the box is jam packed with seven sprues of light grey styrene, a small sprue of clear styrene, a small photo etched brass sheet, a vacformed tilt and a length of rope. Whilst the mouldings are very nicely done with some great details, there is a feeling of a limited run kit to it. The sprue gates are quite large, even for the smallest of parts and the plastic appears quite hard. The instructions too are not what we’ve come to expect from modern manufacturers, being a little in-descript and sketch like. Although the sketches are clearly drawn the parts location isn’t always that clear. With the best part of five hundred parts in the kit, the majority seemingly concerned with the chassis and suspension, great care will be needed when building these sections up. The build begins with the construction of the eight wheels. All the wheels are injection moulded and come in two halves and because of the big sprue gates they will need quite a bit of cleaning up along with the resulting seam once joined together. The front wheels are provided with an inner brake drum and outer centre hub, whilst the rear wheels are joined together by a much larger brake drum with a fluted centre piece and a rear panel, plus an outer central screwed panel. The spares require a hole to be drilled to allow fitting into their respective positions. The points where the holes are required are clearly marked. Next is the engine build. This is very comprehensive and begins with the assembly of the block, which comes in two halves, to which the sump is attached, followed by the cylinder heads. The auxiliary drive unit is fitted to the front, whilst the clutch and gearbox are fitted to the rear. The numerous ancillary parts are then added, along with the intake and exhaust manifolds, air intake filter unit, distributer, auxiliary drive belt and cooling fan. If the modeller wishes, they can super detail the engine with the addition of wiring and piping, especially if the engine covers are to be posed open. Once the engine is complete it’s on to the radiator, radiator housing and grille consisting of seven parts. Then it’s on to the drive train, with the assembly of the front axle, which comes in four parts, the transfer box, and the wheel mounts, complete with ball joint for the steering. The steering rack is then attached followed by the CV joints. Now this is where the instructions go a bit awry, instead of build the rear axles, it moves off to the building of the winch, which is a very nicely detailed unit, which just requires some rope to wrap on it. We now move onto the chassis the two longitudinal rails are fitted with several crossbeams, the completed winch, plus the front and rear end pieces. With the chassis rails closed up the air bottle and towing hook assembly can be attached. The front suspension hangers are then attached in their respective positions, followed by the leaf springs and the front axle sub-assembly. The rear suspension hangers are now attached, and then it’s on with assembling the complex number of parts for the rear suspension. These include the axles, transfer boxes, dampeners and air units. Whilst great care will be required to assemble all these and fit them to the chassis straight and level, it will be well worth it as the detail is quite amazing. There is an intermediate transfer box between the front and rear drive units along with the drive shafts and universal joints, which all have to be aligned correctly. With the drive train and chassis nearly complete the engine mounts and engine is fitted along with the associated drive shafts to the intermediate gearbox. Moving on to the cabin the complex set of levers is assembled and fitted to the cabin floor, followed by the seat mounting frames seat squabs and rear cabin panel. The seat backs are then fitted, as is the rear panel window. The drivers’ compartment front bulkhead comes in a single piece moulding, to which the drivers pedals are fitted along with the instrument panel, coaming and steering wheel bracket. The two piece steering column is assembled and passed through the cabin floor and previously fitted bracket. The wheel can then be attached along with what looks like a column shift lever made out of 0.3mm wire provided by the modeller. The cabin roof is now fitted with the two windscreens, following the written instructions carefully. The roof is then attached to the front coaming first, before being attached to the front of the cabin floor and the rear cabin panel. You must then dry fit the cabin with the engine cover so that the gearstick spigot fits into the hole in the gearbox, whilst at the same time the steering rack gearbox fits into position above the front axle. The written instructions here are in fact very useful, but take your time to get the alignments right. Once the cabin is glued into position you can start fitting the engine panels, the front mudguards, mudguard supports, lights and light protectors, followed by the front bumper. The cabin doors are fitted with their clear windows, but before fitting to the cabin, they will need door handles and window winders made up of 0.3mm wire. The cabin is then completed with the fitting of the roof convoy light and the wing mirrors. At this point the wheels assembled at the beginning of the build can be attached to their respective axles. The two fuel tanks are then assembled along with their supporting bracket assembly under the cabin, followed by the two footsteps, one each side. The truck bed is assembled from the bed, which has seven angular strengtheners attached underneath, front and rear panels, inner side panels and outer cargo bars, which have headrests built into them. The rear mudguards are attached to the rear underside of the bed with a fuel can holder fitted to the left hand mudguard. The bench seats are then fitted to either side of the bed and the now completed assembly can be fitted to the chassis. Lastly the two spare wheels can be attached to front of the bed on the brackets provided. Normally this is where the build finishes, but with this kit the modeller is actually provided with a vacuform tilt, which when cut out and painted slides over the cargo bars and tied to the wire hooks which will need to be made up from 0.3mm wire. It’s nice to see this option as it is rarely available in recently released truck models. Decals The small decal sheet provides decals for two different registrations, along with various placards for around the truck. There are also various sizes of US star and a number of unit markings for which you will need to check your references. Conclusion It’s great to see this truck finally released as an injection moulded kit. Whilst it is certainly not for the beginner, with care, patience and a bit of skill the average modeller should be able to produce a great looking model. The number of parts is quite daunting, but this is only due to the impressive level of detail for the drive train and chassis which will actually be quite visible. The addition of the tilt is a nice touch; just wish other manufacturers included this. All in all an excellent kit, and one I can quite happily highly recommend. I can also recommend the Squadron Signal Walk Around book on this series of trucks, a very useful reference guide. Review sample courtesy of
  20. Does anyone know if there are any detail parts made for the Monogram 1/16 Kenworth truck please? I just bought the kit and wanted to detail it a bit. Thanks
  21. My effort: Airfix Bedford MW 15cwt Tender, painted to represent a home-based RAF vehicle from mid-1942. Using Mike Starmer's guides the colours are Khaki-Green No3 base colour, with Nobels Tarmac No4 disruptive pattern to MTP20. Tyres were painted with a mix of Humbrol no21 satin black and Revel no67 tank grey. After a coat of Microscale gloss to put the decals on, I finished with mattcote, then weathered, lightly, with artists pastels. I added wing mirrors using brass wire and plasticard.
  22. Revell Mercedes 1628s Truck 1:25 The Mercedes 1628s is a 22ton tractor unit manufactured between 1973 and 1988 and was a popular truck worldwide, the Revell kit is a day cab 2 axle tractor unit, with the Mercedes 280bhp V8 engine. The 1628 was available as a tractor or a rigid truck so there are lots of options to convert the base kit. The kit comes over 4 main sprues cast in a light grey. Being an older kit there is some flash on the parts but nothing that needs more than a quick pass with a knife and a sanding stick. The parts are well done, and have some very nice detail on them. Construction kicks off with the multi part chassis, the 2 rails are joined with a large casting that has 4 cross members cast in place, take care when removing this from the sprue, and cleaning this up as it will help keep your chassis straight and true. 3 more cross members are also added before you can add the springs and the 2 axles to your chassis. Extra parts like the anti-roll bars and shock absorbers are also glued into place. The front axle is a fixed part so the wheels can’t be displaced turned without some work but it does give a stronger part. The engine is made up from multiple parts and gives a well detailed engine block, of course you can add some wiring and pipes as the cab can be tilted to show it off. Looking at the instructions you should be able to build and paint the chassis and engine separately adding it late in the build. The wheels look like nice casting, copying the real parts nicely, whereas other kits have a generic wheel, looking at the parts there is a hole in the rear hubs that may need filling but I will see when I build this shortly. There are 6 nice rubber tyres with good sidewall and tread details, some of the nicest truck tyres I have seen. Once you have a rolling chassis you can move onto the cab, the interior is made from multiple parts and they are well detailed. Paining instructions are referenced back to the Revell paint codes with the colours being very 80’swith various browns over more modern greys. There are decals to give the checked effect on the seats and door cards. The truck is of course Left hand Drive but it would be a simple conversion to swap the parts over both in the cab and on the chassis. The cab shell come as a single part and captures the shapes of the cab very well, with the various pressings and panel lines being in scale. There is again a little flash but nothing that will cause a headache to even the most novice modeller. There is a clear sprue that includes most of the cab glazing, only missing the door windows but it wouldn’t take much to create these from some clear plastic sheet. Lenses are included for the lights and some clear red and orange will be needed, the lenses are detailed with engraved lined to separate the red and amber areas. Check you references for the exact layout as it could vary. There is a decal sheet that contains the seat and door card pattern I mentioned earlier in the build, also included are a set of Mercedes cab stripes as applied in the factory and some model badges for the exterior of the cab. Some decals are also included for the clocks on the dashboard and they look well detailed. A variety of registration plates are also included, the UK ones give a late 1980, early 1981 vehicle that would fit with the era (a Leicester registered truck) the decals are as expected from Revell, well printed with good fine decals. Conclusion A welcome re-issue of an older Revell kit. It will be a popular kit as a basis for conversions. Lets hope Revell re-issue some more versions of this (Race Truck PLEASE!!!!!!!!) A build review will follow shortly as I already have a build in mind! Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  23. Was at a loss over Christmas and just a bit busy as one would expect ... Dah, Dah Dah!!! and NO MODELLING HUH! Comes the weekend and I'm getting withdrawal symptons so 'what shall I build? My newly aquired: Merit Models M19 Diamond T? Sweeeeettttt!!! Miniart European Tram? Gorgeous or what? HobbyBoss Soviet AT-1 SPG? Argh, Kasten type track! or THIS.......... Yep, You guessed it OK, so it's a TRUCK you say, but I haven't really done a truck for quite a while but it's a very full box (NO CANOPY though, which is a bit disappointing ) And I need my junkie fix or I'll explode. So here goes..... I actually started this on 30th December and this is where I am tonight... I hope you like the build and I'll update as I get to cardinal points. 2nd January 2014: I proceeded with the PE The PE attached to the formers and fixed to the chassis - this is surprisingly easy due to the 'soft' PE supplied, no need to anneal it (it will dissolve! ) and have test assembled the basic cab and cargo deck This is the current state of play - more later 4th January 2014 - It's now later The wheels are together (not fixed to chassis due to painting) and all touch the ground - Result! A minor issue has arisen: Whilst the rear axle builds really well, the spigot from the axle onto which the wheel mounts is too small for the hole in the wheel hub (or, the hole in the hub is too big) - whichever works for you! I have wrapped the spigot with 5 thou using an old plastic straw and this seems to have resolved the issue - all is right with the world! Soon be time for paint, just the fiddly bits now. 19th January 2014 I know, it's been a few days since my last confession - life sometimes gets in the way of modelling As promised, the 'twiddly bitz' are now done - remember this kit is OTB - and all the sub-assemblies are now finally ready for paint The carpet monster has eaten one piece of PE but I hope to find it shortly (I have a tile floor!) It's lunchtime now but will try to get the undercoat on by teatime today. 26th January 2014 - I've been throwing some paint around OK, Yes, I know the chassis is a lot shiny but I have the gloss finish to achieve the desired effect. Following the decal application the chassis will get a coat of Satin Varnish to seal everything in and 'knock back' the chassis to a more realistic effect. More later and soon to move to 'Ready for Inspection' - WooHoo I'm about to finish a model quickly - for those who know me they'll be stunned!!!
  24. UK vehicle registration plates and HGV signage. from BECC signs and flags I have received some samples from a company called BECC who make real reflective stickers, as part of this bundle are samples aimed at vehicle modellers, firstly I received a set of warning and legal signage for UK trucks, and some real reflective registration plates again aimed at UK registered vehicles. All sets come in a zip-lock style bag with some instructions on their use The first set on the review bench is the set aimed at truck models, the sheet is real reflective vinyl that is peal and stick, and it is one sheet so the signs need cutting individually before sticking on your model. The sheet contains various data and warning plates the sheet is comprehensive and well printed. The details are very sharp and well printed the sheet is reflective and looks very realistic on your builds; I have shown some close details below. The set reviewed here is at 1:24 scale, but is also available at 1:14 for the bigger Tamiya RC truck models. The second set on the review bench are newer style UK registration plates to suit cars or trucks, this set only has the oblong shaped plates but there is a choice of 1:24 or 1:18 in this set, you also get a set of black letters, 3mm high for 1:24, and 4mm high for 1:18. The letters are cut nicely and easy to remove from the backing and look to be the correct font for British vehicles. It takes allot of patience to get them stuck down straight and spaced correctly but the detail they add will be worth the effort! Conclusion Some nice sets from BECC signs check out their website for the vast range they do for vehicles, aircraft and boats. Review sample thanks to
  25. Dodge L-700 Tractor Unit with Chrome tanker or Box Van Trailer 1:25 Plastic kit from Lindberg Models The Dodge L700 is a medium duty truck manufactured by Dodge trucks in the USA using components from there A100 light duty trucks. The L-700 was available with either a Dodge, or Cummins V8 engine. The L-700 had a smaller sibling , the L-600, that was outwardly similar but designed to pull smaller weights, this had the option of straight 6 diesel of a V8 Gas engine. The Dodge L-700 was available as a tractor with a very short 89inch wheelbase, and a steering angle of 50o for great manoeuvrability in towns and cities, where this truck was designed to live and work. The L-700, and L-600 could also be specified with a longer rigid chassis up to 192inch wheelbase and the Dodge had various bodies, and pulled a variety of trailers. Lindberg have now re-issued the Dodge L-700 in 1:25, this is an old kit but a welcome re-issue.A couple of versions of this kit have arrived on the review bench and as they are very similar I will start by looking at the cab and tractor as they are the same in both boxes. The cab comes as a single part cast in white plastic, the doors are separate to the shell to allow them to be posed open. The cab has some reinforcing bars cast across the door apertures to help the cab hold its shape, take care when removing so not to damage the frame, the cab is nicely done and captures the complex shapes on the cab. The doors are moulded on a different sprue, and they have separate interior door cards. A quick check shows them to be an OK fit, will need some work but I don’t think it will be too hard to get them in and straight. The parts on both kits are nicely cast with very little flash anywhere. I will guess Lindberg have cleaned up the moulds for this re-issue. The interior and floor are cast with the big wheel arches, there is some nice engraved detail on the cab floor showing the rubber footwall covering and some rivet detail on the cab floor and wheel arches. There is no detail on the underside and this is a shame as the Dodge L-700 is a tilt-cab, and on this kit the cab can be tilted to show off the V8 engine. No doubt the detailers will go to town here, Ill add some foil for the heat and noise shields and a few wires and cables under here. The cab interior parts include the basic dashboard as found in this truck, there isn’t allot of detail on the part but in reality the real truck is basic, there are 3 seats that have some nice engraved detail to simulate the stitching in the covers. Some careful painting will bring the interior to life, and I would add some scale cab junk to be viewed through the big windows. Also found on this sprue is the engine parts. This is a small V8 diesel engine, the truck had the option of 2 engines and I’m not sure what is depicted in the kit, but a quick search will pop up some images of either engine to allow you to detail and paint the parts to depict your choice of power. The parts are well moulded with a fair amount of detail on the parts, some extra cables and wires will bring it to life when painted. Also seen in the sprues above is the rear axle, the Dodge has a choice of a single or 2 speed axle, and my guess is a twin speed example is tooled on this build again there is good detail with the rough cast housing and some bolt details on the parts. The chassis is made up from 2 rails that look very short for a tractor unit in this scale, but a quick calculation and looking at side on shots of the real deal on the net show them to be correct as it is a very stubby tractor, and I guess this makes it more use in an urban setting. The chassis is made up from the 2 rails and 5 cross members so you will need to take care to get it all straight and true so you build isn’t twisted. The truck is suspended on 4 multi-leaf springs and 2 axles, the two speed rear axle is described above, and the front axle that is supplied can be build working so move the steering lock. Personally I pose the wheels turned a bit then glue solid for strength. Fuel tanks, air tanks and the exhaust are in 2 parts each so will need gluing sanding and filling before painting and adding to the chassis. A pair of large rear spray flaps is included, they are quite thick and have the IPC logo cast on the parts so I will remove them from the mounting and replace with some thin plastic painted black. The wheels are the trilex style, popular at the time in the States, and they have nice detail on the parts with some bolts in the appropriate places. Also on this sprue is the internal door cards for the cab, again basic as is the real truck with some winder handles for the opening door windows and rivet detail on the parts. There is a clear sprue for the cab glass and lights, they are packed in their own bags and don’t look too thick. A small chrome sprue covers the shiny bits for the cab, the bowls for the headlamps come on this chrome sprue and they include the bezels for the lamps and these are a big feature on the Dodge cab. The cabs bumper is also chromed along with the regulation cab roof marker lights along with wipers, and handles for the cab outside. The chrome is nice and not too heavy but along with many others Ill strip and re-do this anyway. A bag of rubber tyres are enclosed, 14 are included for the tractor and trailer. There is some flash on the tyres that will need a swipe with a knife or sandpaper, nothing too major though. The detail is nice, I would say a little heavy on the sidewalls but as I rub the rubber with some sandpaper to dull and weather it a bit and I’m sure this will subdue this. This now concludes the parts for the tractor units for both kits as I said you get all the above plastic in both boxing. I will now look at the trailer parts from the two kits. Trailer parts Chassis The chassis and running gear is also the same in both kits, both trailers run on two axles sitting on multi-leaf springs. The tanker version does have some basic detail on how to convert to a single axle trailer, but as I said this is basic detail and not complete! The parts are again cast in white plastic and there is some minor flash on some of the parts, You start by making a small chassis frame that holds the suspension and axles. A single air tank need gluing together and adding before the suspension and axles. I would pop some wire in to simulate the airlines for the braking system, and also some cables for the electrical wiring on the trailer. The axles include the hobs and brake chambers, I’d drill and plumb these to the air tank to give extra detail on these parts. The wheels are the trilex style to match the tractor unit with the same rubber tyres shown above. You have optional long or short landing legs so you can hook it to your tractor (short legs) or have it as a solo model (Long legs) Tanker The first trailer I will look at is the chrome tanker, this can be built as the long version shown on the box, or a shorter single axle version. As I said the instructions on how to achieve this is sporadic and you will need to take care and take your time if doing this conversion. The tank comes in 4 main parts, 2 upper and two lower with a joint both horizontally along the tank, and vertically in the centre. The parts are designed to hide this with overlaps on the parts. To build a short tank you need to forward upper and lower parts and in the upper section you need to cut a hole for the manhole, this is shown on the underside with an engraved circle to follow with your knife. There is a lot of chrome with the rear locker, hose lockers and ladders all being chrome. It wouldn’t be hard to strip and re-paint either as a lower spec painted trailer of using your choice of chrome paints. Box Trailer. The second trailer on the review bench is a box van style. This is very 70s in style with its vertical beading on the side walls and the twin axle design. The body is supported by the same chassis and running gear as seen above on the tanker so I won’t go over this again. The body is split across the middle with the roof, floor and sides split needing a centre support part. You start by building the chassis and running gear, adding these to the 2 floor parts to create a flat bed, there is some basic detail on the floor, and if you add a small headboard you could leave it as an open flat trailer. The rear doors and frame is build next, the doors and be left to swing on the hinges if wanted to allow you to open and close them to show the inside of the trailer. The sides, back door section and front bulkhead are then added to the floor using the central support to hide and reinforce the joints, take care to keep it square and straight before adding the two roof sections. In this kit you get a couple of scale wood pallets for the load, they come in a light brown and are made up from slats of plastic glued together, painted and weathered they will look good with their fine engrave wood grain surface. You don’t need to worry about making them too square or straight either! A small decal sheet includes some logos for the box van, the Lindberg logo for the two sides and rear along with some US flag and the ‘Made in the USA’ legend under the flags. Conclusion A very welcome re-issue of some classic kits, they will need some work to get tighter being older mouldings, but them where a popular little truck and this can be converted to other L-700s and even the smaller L-600 trucks. Look forward to getting it on the build bench. UK distributors for
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