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  1. This will be fun. Let's see if I can build this wee kit, minus all the armaments, and turn it out as one of thousands of post-war surplus vehicles that went on to see civilian use. At this point I am thinking 'Rural Volunteer Fire Department', but it may end up as 'Department of Public Works.' I'll see what I can dig up from the spares boxes and how much I want to scratch build. I'll be choosing 'The Great Escape' route... I built this a while back. Sorry..I can't find the original image on Flickr. It would be cool to have a whole fleet of surplus vehicles in various roles. --John
  2. Hello fellows, Let me show you my last project finished. This is the 1,5T Chevrolet G506 Flatbed truck, from Mini Art. A little joke: in B&W, doesn't it look like the real thing? I've enjoyed a lot with this model. Mini Art is a great brand. If you like some more pics, you can get it in WIP: Thanks for watching! Cheers Josep
  3. Hello fellows, Let me show you my last project, the 1,5 T Chevrolet G506 Flatbed truck. It's made by Mini Art, in 1/35. This is my first experience with this brand, and I have to say I'm very happy. This is the boxart: The quality of plastic is good, without flaws, and the instructions are clear. All in accordance with a modern kit. I liked this subject because is quite different. By the way, MiniArt provides the same kit in several versions (tow truck, military...). Here, the chasis once built: And here, after painting and weathering. I've tried to achieve a realistic look. Some pics of the engine. Despite being quite detailed, I added a couple of pipes: Here the chasis and the engine, and also the cabin (this just with a layer of prime). In the cabin I also added a couple of wires, in order to connect with the engine. The seat was weathered using pigments. The decals of the dashboard are so tiny, that two of them got damaged. Luckily, they will hardly be visible... Here the cabin already completed and painted: In this pic, the cabin put in the chasis, and the engine connected with the radiator: Supports and wires connected: And this is all for the moment... As you can see in the background, the driver is also waiting for more work. I hope you like it. Cheers, Josep
  4. Good afternoon, colleagues and interested. And finally I was able to force myself to do something after the New Year and finish something started or start something new. I present to you build started at the end of last year. In fact, like all AVD models, she gathered in the evening. But I worked with the details for a long time. To begin with, the purchase and replacement of all optics. A little photo etching (nameplate, wipers) Wiring and hoses. It was very "fun" to do them with an extremely meager amount of information and blueprints. Made them by photos and videos as I saw. I opened the upper hatch and threw garbage inside. And of course, rotary front axle. The prototype is randomly selected.(Liked) Coloring - Akan Pigments - all sorts. Thank you for your attention, enjoy watching. м
  5. Good day, colleagues and sympathizers. Today I want to present to you for inspection a fresh model from SPM - truck AMO F-15. The second in the epoxy recently. At one time, I missed a model from the company OtVinta and this time I decided to buy it. A lot has been said about the prototype, if you search. In short, a one-and-a-half-ton truck, the first serial in the Soviet Union. As with many cars in the USSR - in the girlhood it was a Fiat 15 ter, somewhat redesigned as a result by our engineers to match the "beautiful" roads) An overview of the details of the model I posted here not so long ago -; https://karopka.ru/community/user/24492 /?MODEL=631069 The box gives a choice of 3 assembly options, all for the early production period. Assembly - everything is easy to assemble, the parts practically do not require fitting. Olives are thin, neat, I got them without defects. There are several nuances in the correspondence of the model to the prototype. The absence of a window in the tent, the absence of a second handle on the right (the handbrake and gearshift were still both outside). I didn't dig deeper into the match, but judging by the photos, people who are "sick" with this will have questions) As I wrote above, there are 3 model assembly options in the set: 1. The earliest "First AMO" 2. The next issue, 1925 (if I found the info correctly) 3. Differs from the second variant by the stamp of the hood sidewalls. It's generally difficult here, but there are photos of such cars. I chose the second option. A car that participated in the 1925 Leningrad-Moscow-Kursk motor rally (for trucks). It is noteworthy that both AMOS from the participants of the run came taking 1st and 2nd place. I don't want to make a very clean or very dirty car, so it turned out something in between. We will assume that they have recently left) Coloring - traditionally AKAN, a little Gunze (supermetallics top). AK oil, pigments - strategic reserves of masterpigment) Enjoy watching, thank you for your attention) Good day, colleagues and sympathizers. Today I want to present to you for inspection a fresh model from SPM - truck AMO F-15. The second in the epoxy recently. At one time, I missed a model from the company OTVINT and this time I decided to buy it. A lot has been said about the prototype, if you search. In short, a one-and-a-half-ton truck, the first serial in the Soviet Union. As with many cars in the USSR - in the girlhood it was a Fiat 15 ter, somewhat redesigned as a result by our engineers to match the "beautiful" roads) An overview of the details of the model I posted here not so long ago -> https://karopka.ru/community/user/24492 /?MODEL=631069 The box gives a choice of 3 assembly options, all for the early production period. Assembly - everything is easy to assemble, the parts practically do not require fitting. Olives are thin, neat, I got them without defects. There are several nuances in the correspondence of the model to the prototype. The absence of a window in the tent, the absence of a second handle on the right (the handbrake and gearshift were still both outside). I didn't dig deeper into the match, but judging by the photos, people who are "sick" with this will have questions) As I wrote above, there are 3 model assembly options in the set: 1. The earliest "First AMO" 2. The next issue, 1925 (if I found the info correctly) 3. Differs from the second variant by the stamp of the hood sidewalls. It's generally difficult here, but there are photos of such cars. I chose the second option. A car that participated in the 1925 Leningrad-Moscow-Kursk motor rally (for trucks). It is noteworthy that both AMOS from the participants of the run came taking 1st and 2nd place. I don't want to make a very clean or very dirty car, so it turned out something in between. We will assume that they have recently left) Coloring - traditionally AKAN, a little Hansa (supermetallics top). AK oil, pigments - strategic reserves of masterpigment) Enjoy watching, thank you for your attention)
  6. Jeep Gladiator Overland Quickbuild (J6039) Airfix The Gladiator is Jeep’s (allegedly) medium-sized pickup truck that seems pretty massive to my British eyes, but America likes big trucks – just because. It was based upon the Wrangler JL platform, and went on sale in 2019. It was named after the 1960s original, and was initially available with various specifications, the luxury one being the Overland that is depicted here. It is unique amongst trucks in that it has a retractable top, and using a tool-kit supplied, the owner can remove the doors and even flip down the windscreen to give that bugs-in-the-teeth feeling. It is available with various power-trains, the usual fuelling options and with automatic or manual transmissions, and a hi-tech camera system gives the driver a view of frontal obstacles when in off-road mode, which should allow the driver to spot dangers in treacherous conditions without needing a spotter. There have been a number of special editions since launch with individual features that appeal to specific demographics, but an early recall was necessary after it was found that some of the rear drive-shafts had been assembled without grease, which could lead to issues in fairly short order. The Kit By now we’re probably all familiar with the Quickbuild range, combining assembly brick simplicity with custom parts that give the finished article a realistic, smooth surfaced model that’s able to withstand even rough play without the use of glue or paint, and with simple stickers finishing off the model’s look. The box is a standard flimsy red-themed end-opening Quickbuild style, with a small tab preventing the contents from tumbling out when handled. The contents are in one bag in three colours of ABS and another for the clear part that makes for greater flexibility that is needed for the friction fit method that allows the bricks to fit together, as well as allowing it to stand up to the gentle ministrations of 6-year old children and older. There are 44 parts in black, grey, white, clear and four flexible rubber tyres, with all the parts except the tyres having a nice shiny surface. The sticker sheet is outside the bag with the instructions, and over 14 steps plus stickers the vehicle is made up, with all parts fitting together snugly and very little flex in the assembly. Where there are some important parts that should be clicked into position for correct alignment, they are identified with a set of pointy hands emanating from the area. These occur in the later stages when the front wing panels are put in place (although mine didn’t click), and of course it is critical to follow the instructions because of the way the parts intersect with each other, only fitting in place at the correct stage of the instructions. The tyres slip over the wheels from the front, with a small lip on the outer face to stop them from sliding off easily. The axles have been sensibly placed under the main floor pan during the later steps, so that the downward pressure of anyone “driving” pushes them home and prevents them coming loose to ruin play. My example arrived without scratches but if yours has any, there’s a simple way to remedy this. I removed a scratch from a previous kit by using a green/white buffing sponge, greenish side first, then the white side perpendicular to the original direction, which made it disappear and returned the part to full shine. Markings The stickers are printed on a clear adhesive surface and are die-cut to ease application. There are instrument dials and MFD screen in the centre of the dash, but most are left to the end, with headlights, side-lights, rear light clusters, and branding badges on the bodywork, plus a JEEP number plate and two Gladiator badge styles to personalise your model. Printing is good quality, but as I found before when using tweezers to remove them, the ink is prone to scratching and the ink will also come off if subjected to rigorous burnishing, so take care when applying them. Conclusion Every new release of these innovative kits is better than the last, with improved fit all-round. The Jeep Gladiator was previously unknown to me because SUVs and trucks don’t interest me, but it has the familiar Jeep look, and once completed with stickers it felt more like a pre-built than a construction toy. My son is getting to the age where he’s beyond toy cars now, but his eyes still lit up when I showed it to him. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  7. Hi everyone. It's been a little while since I posted anything and this is my latest offering, the Trumpeter 1:25 scale American LaFrance 'College Park' Fire Truck. Those that follow my other builds will realise that I did not add any lights to this build as it would have been expensive to do it properly but I decided to have open doors on one side of the cab unit just to give it more of an 'in use' feeling. The cab unit is in one piece and I'm past the stage of wanting a fully enclosed cab without any choice of having open or closed doors, etc. As for the kit, well I built this alongside an American friend who built his over there while I did mine here and we both came up with the same problems with the kit which was mainly streaking effects on the important surfaces so they had to be really rubbed down before painting. Next was a problem with the paint reacting to something within the plastic. Both had been washed thoroughly but when paint was added it created horrid splodges and bubbling and this even happened after the area had been rubbed down. The only way around it was to give it several thin coats of undercoat to build up layers and then the paint went on quite well. The one disappointment was that no hoses were included for the rear section but I found some great instructions online that showed you how to make them from scratch. I have seen many builds where trainer laces were used but they just seemed so out of scale that I went for making my own. I hope you enjoy viewing the pics and feel inspired enough to give this kit a go as it really does look amazing when finished, with all that gleaming chrome (make sure you have a chrome pen handy as the chrome parts are attached to the sprue in places where cutting would show up). More pictures can be found HERE.
  8. Soviet Six Wheel Army Truck with Shelter (35002) 1:35 ICM Via H G Hannants Ltd Even though not mentioned the truck is a KamAZ-4310. This was an all wheel driver truck produced by Kamaz between 1981 and 1995. Following 1995 production switched to the similar looking but more powerful the KamAZ-43114. Trucks may not command the same attention as other Army vehicles such as Tanks but they are the life blood of any Army delivering personnel and supplies, as well as many specialised roles involving the fitting of specialised bodies to the standard chassis. The K4320D shelter body could serve a number of purposes from the installation of communications equipment though to mobile workshops. The Kit This is a re-boxing of ICM's 2016 kit with the addition of parts for the shelter body. Construction begins by building up the truck chassis. The two side rails are joined by cross members and mounting brackets for various components. The first of these are the rear is a chassis mounted winch. In the centre goes a transfer box. The front leaf springs are moulded to the rails but the rear ones need building up and fitting to the chassis. To the front of the chassis the bumper is added. Next up a full engine and gearbox is provided. This is a small model in itself. The Engine can then be fitted, and to the front of this the radiator assembly is added. The exhaust system is then fitted. Next up the rear axles are built up and added to the chassis. Transfer shafts join these to each other, and the main transfer box. Suspension dampers can then be fitted once the axles are in place. The same procedures are then followed for the single front axle, though with steering components being added as well. A bump plate it then fitted to the underside in front of this axle. Brackets are added to the outside of the chassis for the fuel tanks, air tanks; and battery box. The front mud guards are then also fitted. The wheels and their rubber tyres can now be assembled and fitted to the model. A spare is provided and a carrier for this needs to be built up and added to the chassis. Next up it time for the cab to be built up. The floor pan get the drivers foot controls and a hand brake. Three seats are then constructed and added to the floor pan, these are followed by the rear bulkhead and the cab sides. An underside part is then added containing the rest of the mud guard area. The dash is then assembled and added to the cab front. This is attached to the main body of the cab and then the steering column and wheel can be put in. The roof is then added along with the side doors. To finish of the cab windscreen wipers are added to the front and engine intake pipe to the rear. The rear mounted shelter body now needs to be built up. The two sides are added to the base, followed by the ends; then the roof is added. The rear and side doors are then put in place. Underneath the body the mounting rails are built up and added. Various openings are sealed with hatches and the mudguards are fitted to the body. External lockers, lights, stowage boxes and a rear mounted generator are added along with a ladder to access these. Now the completed cab and body units can be fixed to the chassis finishing the model off. The cab if wanted can be in the raised/tilted position. Markings Markings are provided for 2 generic Russian vehicles in overall green, and one in a later green/grey/black camo scheme. No information is given on these. Conclusion Trucks are often overlooked but this is a great model from ICM. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of
  9. MAN 7t. milgl 6x6(03291) 1:35 Carrera Revell In the 1960s the Bundeswehr was looking to replace its fleet of vehicles which stemmed from the birth of the modern German Army. They wanted a fleet of 2, 3 & 4 axle vehicles in the 4 to 10 tonne payload range which had to be amphibious. As it was a large task it was suggested that bidding companies form a common development company for a unified project. This was set up under the leadership of MAN and included Klockner-Humboldt-Deutz, Bussins, Krup, and Henschel. The specification agreed was for a cross country capable, amphibious, all wheel drive, run flat tyres, steel cab, NBC protection, and a multifuel engine. In 1975 the German Army & MAN signed the contract to produce 4x4, 6x6 and 8x8 vehicles. The distinctive cab with the cut away corners stems from the need for the vehicles to be rail transported on standard flat cars. Earlier trucks had fixed cabs but later ones tilting ones which made engine maintenance much easier. All vehicles feature a mount for a MG3 machine gun (basically an MG42!). The Kit This is re-boxing of Revell's kit from 2001. The kit arrives on 5 sprues of green plastic, a clear sprue and 7 rubber tyres. Construction starts by building up the truck chassis. The two rails are assembled with 6 cross members and a rear link member. To these are added the rear axles after they are assembled with their suspension units. A central transmission unit is added with drive shafts linking the two rear axles. The front axle is then assembled and added in along with its suspension units, this is also linked via a drive shaft to the transmission. Air tanks and wheel chocks are then added to the chassis, followed by the exhaust. The cab unit can then be made up To the base is added the left side panel and the front panel. The steering column and wheel go in along with the seats, and the rear cabin bulkhead. The roof complete with MG hatch is added, then at the right side the more complicated bulkheads and side panels go on, along with the rear bulkhead. The cab can then be added to the chassis and the exhaust parts included which join up the box installed on the chassis. At the front of the cab the bumper and mirrors go on, along with the front lights. Now the rear load compartment is built up, Here the tilt sides are moulded on so there is no option to have an open cargo bed. The tow sides add to the load bed with the headboard and tailgate being added. The roof can then be attached, and underneath the frames are added. Equipment boxes and tools are added under the main body at this time along with mudflaps and a tow bar, before it is mounted to the chassis. Lastly the wheels are added. Markings A small decal sheet provides marking for 5 different Army units all with small differences to the standard camo scheme Conclusion This is still a good model of the standard Germany Army truck and can be recommend to modeler of all skill types. Currently, Revell are unable to ship to the UK from their online shop due to recent changes in import regulations, but there are many shops stocking their products where you can pick up the kits either in the flesh or online. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  10. 917t Japanese Truck (Yokohama Cab) 1:72 IBG Models (71060) The G917T was a compact truck designed by Ford and manufactured around the world in the 1930s and 40s. The British version was known as the Fordson E88. A version of the truck apparently made its way into production in Japan, albeit with a redesigned cab, where it was known as the Model 81 3 ton truck. The truck was generally powered by a 3.6 litre V8 petrol engine which developed between 75 and 90hp. Four-wheel-drive versions were also developed for military use. IBG Models have built up quite a reputation with their range of excellent kits. The quality of casting and detail easily rivals Revell at their best, but more often than not, extras such as photo etched parts are also included. This new truck is a based on the German 917T truck that I reviewed recently, but it is nevertheless a very welcome addition to the range. It arrives packed into a top-opening box about twice the size it needs to be (I've noticed that IBG Models always us the same sized box regardless of the model) inside which are five frames of crisply moulded grey plastic, a frame of clear parts, a small fret of photo etched details and a small decal sheet. The plastic parts are crisply moulded and well detailed. Construction starts with the engine. This comprises eight parts, including a photo etched brass fan. This is quite something to behold for a kit in this scale and at this price point. The axles, drive shaft and brake assemblies are also assembled and fitted to the ladder chassis at this stage. Photo etched parts are used for some of the finer details such as the tow hooks. The radiator and wheels must be added before work on the body can begin. Both are well-detailed and the tyres are moulded onto the wheel hubs. The cab is nice detailed and includes a two-part bench seat, a steering wheel with separate column, a gear stick and handbrake. A neat little crew figure is also included. Two rifles are provided, and these fit to the rear wall of the cab. The roof and doors are moulded as separate parts and the latter are designed in such a way that they can be fixed in place in either open or closed position. The front part of the body is made up of a bonnet, two sides and the separate front wings. The bonnet is not designed to be finished in the open position. The rear of the truck is a simple wooden-sided flat load area. Unlike the Wehrmacht version of the kit, there is no option for a tarpaulin cover. Finishing touches include a small tool box and a photo etched part that folds up into a box to hold two clear plastic water bottles. If you want to load the truck fully however, you'll need to turn to aftermarket producers for help. The decal sheet provides for a single colour scheme appropriate for trucks based in China between 1940 and 1945. You can change the plate and other identification numbers in order to add a bit of variety, however. Conclusion I really enjoy reviewing IBG's kits and it's great to see them address the paucity of Japanese softskin vehicles with this handy truck. It's curious that IBG Models always include crew figures with their kits of Japanese subjects, but not with any other kits. Presumably this is because of some form of tie-up with a Japanese company and this is an additional requirement. Whatever, it's a nice touch and it very welcome. Overall, this kit can be highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  11. Garbuz Models has just released a 1/72nd MAZ TZ-200 Soviet TruckFuel Tanker kit - ref. GBZ 72-02 Sources: https://www.facebook.com/mikro.mir.dnepr/posts/3996076170470089 https://amarket-model.com/product/tz-200-truck-soviet-fuel-tanker/ https://ua-hobby.com/products/1-72-tz-200-garbuz-models-72-02 V.P.
  12. Hello everyone This is yet another one of my builds that I have added lighting to and this time it is the Italeri Landrover Fire Truck. Overall it has been a good kit to build with good quality plastic and very little flashing at all. The component went together well and there is enough detail to please most. The rear door is moulded into the top half of the truck so I decided to cut it out so that I could pose the door as open with a small tailgate that I added. If you would like to see how it was built then please click HERE and a video of the lights working can be found HERE I hope you enjoy viewing it as I did making it. Kevin
  13. First post here, I reckon since I moved to the UK, I should start contributing to the local scale modeling forums HEMTT M983A2 tractor by Model collect, with PE set by Tetra models, in 1:72 scale As this was my first modern vehicle model (and first model with tires and windshields), I'd be curious about some feedback, especially on things like: tires weathering - not really 100% with this, went with pigments and by the time I didn't like it, it was too late to go back windshield dust effect - I don't find the final effect particularly realistic looking, but not sure how to do it better. Any tips and feedback appreciated
  14. OK this one is close to my heart. As a fairly new boy driving on the continent in the mid-late 1980s in my early 20s I was given this to drive... Now this is a Ford Transcontinental but it had been modified, for its time it was huge inside. It was many years before I finally made an effort to build this. Being as it consisted of a Volvo donor kit and a KFS transkit which had to be cut up, it had the makings of an expensive disaster... But I went for it in the end
  15. I recently got a Zvezda 1/35 Soviet 4.5 truck. It is my first truck build, so please help
  16. Hi everyone At last I have finished a project that I started in November last year, due to the fact that I broke off to make the Revell Boxer (posted elsewhere). As I mentioned before, I have a new airbrush kit and making this model certainly taught me a lot about going from painting by hand to using an airbrush. The main annoyance is that I actually bought a Revell spray can for the main cab body and then ran out of it half way through, only to have to pay almost £14 to buy another one. The courier charge was more than the can but as there is not a Revell supplier near me, I had little choice. Next time I will try airbrushing the actual model body rather than using a can. Also, there were slight colour differences. Still, I learn......I learn (as Manuel would say). The lights were a bit of a nightmare as there was so little space to work in. I'd like to have added some more but my patience was getting very thin and thought it best to quit while I was ahead. Will anyone notice the actual tea in the cup on the dash? Anyway, I'm taking a chance and posting the results below. I may go back to it at some point to just finish it off to what I think is a more suitable standard or to improve it with any suggestions from any replies. Thanks for looking. I hope it will inspire others to push the boundaries a little. More pictures and pictures of the actual build can be found HERE. There is also a video there too.
  17. Fordson WOT6 British WWII Truck (03282) 1:35 Revell During WWII, Ford UK built a great many vehicles for the British war effort, as well as some 34,000 Merlin engines for Spitfires, Lancasters and Hurricanes. The WOT.6 was a 4x4 light truck (3 ton capacity) with a short cab that housed a 3.6L V8 engine pumping out a fairly paltry 85hp that could get it to 75mph eventually. The engine's location under the cab gave the load bed plenty of space on the chassis rail, and also gave the truck a sit-up-and-beg look. The heat from the radiator had to be redirected by a fairing to prevent it being ingested by open windows, thereby cooking and possibly even poisoning the crew if it wasn't in the best of health. Over 30,000 were built in a number of configurations, and they were in service from 1942 to the end of the war, with those in good enough shape carrying on into the early 60s. The Kit This is new tooling from ICM, which has bow been reboxed by Revell The kit arrives in a small box with their usual top flap on the lower tray, and inside the outer clear foil bag are seven sprues in medium grey styrene, a clear sprue in its own bag, four flexible black plastic tyres and a sheet of Photo-Etch (PE) parts, each in their own bags, plus a small decal sheet. The instruction booklet completes the package, and is printed on glossy white paper in colour, with black and red used for the diagrams throughout, and the decal options printed in colour at the rear. British WWII softskins aren't much of a priority for many companies, so it will be happily anticipated by many for that reason, and due to the vast improvement in ICM's tooling in recent years they will be pleased to see that they have packed in a lot of detail to this release, and you can almost bank on there being other versions forthcoming in time if this one sells well. Perusing the sprues shows plenty of detail all over, with the occasional ejector pin that's unavoidable if you're expecting top quality detail on both sides of parts. Common sense has prevailed however, and all the marks are in areas where they either won't be seen, or where they're relatively easy to make good. The construction phase begins with the chassis, which is made up from two main rails, with sub-rails and spacers holding things together, and front suspension moulded into the outer rails. With the chassis completed by adding the rear end, attention turns to the engine, which is a complete rendering, and made up from a good number of parts for detail, including the block, pulleys, transmission and a short drive-shaft that threads through the holes in the cross-members. The two long exhaust pipes with mufflers go under the chassis on each side, and the rear suspension is fitted, which is a substantial set of leaf-springs, then the axles and drive shafts are attached to the suspension and transfer box. Brake drums, fuel tanks, steering arms and struts are all installed before the wheels are built-up around the rubbery black tyres, which have tread details moulded-in, and are finished off by the addition of the hubs, which attach from both sides, and are then detailed with additional parts before they are slotted onto the axles. The undercarriage is almost done, and it's time for the upper surfaces, beginning with the engine bay, which has the front wheel-arches moulded in, and is then detailed with lights, front rail, radiator and some additional ancillaries to keep the engine running. You even get a pair of lower hoses for the radiator to mate it to the engine, and two more longer ones diving diagonally down into the topside of the engine from the top of the rad. There's going to be a bit of painting needed, as the engine can be seen from the underside, even though access is limited. The bay sides are planted, and are joined by internal covers and instrumentation on top, which have a few decals to detail them up. Some of the driver's controls are added on the right side (the correct side) of the engine, and a pair of seats are built up and added to the square bases installed earlier, then the front of the cab is detailed with clear parts and window actuators, before the sides are attached to the edges and lowered onto the chassis, then joined by the simple dash board and steering wheel on its spindly column. The doors are separate parts and have clear windows, handles and window winders added, then joined to the sides in either the open or closed position or any variation of the two. The cab is a bit draughty at the moment, until the rear panel and the roof are added, the latter having a pop-up cover on the co-driver's side, with a couple of PE grilles then added to the front radiator frames after being bent to shape. Now for the truck bed, beginning with the sides, which have two stiffeners added, then are covered with bumpers along the top and bottom edge of the outside face. The bed floor fits into a groove into the bottom, and is kept square by the addition of the front and rear sides. Under the bed are a number of stowage boxes and racks for additional fuel or water cans, which are happily also included, then they are joined by the two parts per wheel that form the wheel arch that are braced on the outside with two small struts. Then it's the fun part! Adding the bed to the chassis, which is kept in the correct place by two ridges under the bed that mate with grooves in the chassis rail. At the front, two light-hoods are fitted above the lights, and the prominent pedestrian unfriendly hood that deflects the rain and hopefully redirects the engine heat from being sucked back into the open front windows on a hot day. The cab is detailed with additional lights, horn, wing mirrors, grab-handles and even some pioneer tools, then the windscreen wipers. Moving backwards, the four c-shaped hoops that support the canvas tilt are applied to the outside of the bed sides, reaching roughly half-way down the sides to obtain a strong join in both 1:1 and 1:35. The final act is to add seven rods along the length of the roof section of the tilt frame, which will need some careful alignment to ensure all the hoops are vertical and correctly spaced. Now you can paint it, but you've probably got a lot of that done already in truth. Markings The decal sheet is pretty small, but it's also quite colourful due to the unit markings that are included. From the box you can build one of the following: Royal Army Service Corps, attached 7th Armoured Brigade, Hamburg 1945 Royal Artillery, attached the 50th Northumbrian Infantry Division, Holland 1944 Decals are printed by Cartograf in Italy looking at the sheets number, so there will be no issues with them. Conclusion As soon as I saw this in the box I thought it was an interesting subject, and it looks like ICM have made a nice little replica here. Plenty of detail, some PE parts, and some rubbery tyres for those that don't want to have to paint them. Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  18. 917t German Truck 1:72 IBG Models The G917T was a compact truck designed by Ford and manufactured around the world in the 1930s and 40s. The British version was known as the Fordson E88, while German variants included the 987T, 987TG, 917T and 997T. The German variants were manufactured at Ford Cologne until 1942, when production ceased due to the supply of components being cut off following the USA's entry into World War Two. The truck was powered by a 3.6 litre V8 petrol engine which developed between 75 and 90hp. Four-wheel-drive and stretched wheelbase ambulances were also developed for use by the Wehrmacht. IBG Models have built up quite a reputation with their range of excellent kits. The quality of casting and detail easily rivals Revell at their best, but more often than not, extras such as photo etched parts are also included. This new kit of the classic Ford-designed truck is a very welcome addition to the range. It arrives packed into a top-opening box about twice the size it needs to be (I've noticed that IBG Models always us the same sized box regardless of the model) inside which are three frames of crisply moulded grey plastic, a separately moulded tarpaulin cover, a frame of clear parts, a small fret of photo etched details and a small decal sheet. The plastic parts are crisply moulded and well detailed. Construction starts with the engine. This comprises eight parts, including a photo etched brass fan. This is quite something to behold for a kit in this scale and at this price point. The axles, drive shaft and brake assemblies are also assembled and fitted to the ladder chassis at this stage. Photo etched parts are used for some of the finer details such as the tow hooks. The radiator and wheels must be added before work on the body can begin. Both are well-detailed and the tyres are moulded onto the wheel hubs. The cab is nice detailed and includes a two-part bench seat, a steering wheel with separate column, a gear stick and handbrake. The roof and doors are moulded as separate parts. The doors are designed in such a way that they can be fixed in place in either open or closed position. The front part of the body is made up of a bonnet, two sides and the separate front wings. Despite all the detail included in the engine, the bonnet is not designed to be finished in the open position. The load area can be finised with or without tarpaulin. If you choose not to use the part for the tarpaulin cover, then a wooden-sided flat load area can be added in its place. The tarpaulin cover is moulded as a single part, however, which is much easier for the modeller in a hurry! Finishing touches include a spare jerry can and a rack to hold it, as well as some tools. If you want to load the truck up, you'll need to turn to aftermarket producers for help. The decal sheet provides two options: 6th Panzer Division, Eastern Front, 1941; and DAK, North Africa, 1942. Conclusion I really enjoy reviewing IBG's kits and it's great to see them turn out another important softskin vehicle. Detail is excellent and the quality of manufacture looks to be up there with the very best. It's a shame crew figures haven't been included, but this is nevertheless a great little kit that can be highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  19. Soviet AA Type 1.5 ton Railroad Truck MiniArt 1:35 The GAZ AA 1.5 ton truck was a licenced manufactured version of the Ford AA truck for the Soviet Union, where more than 950,000 were built. There were many body styles, but the most recognisable version was the flat bed truck as depicted in this kit, although being slightly different, in that instead of standard wheels with rubber tyres, this on is fitted with rail wagon style wheels. The model is contained within a very attractive, bright and colourful box that MiniArt have started using recently. Inside, there are nineteen sprues in grey styrene, one of clear, and a single sheet of etch brass plus a full decal sheet. Unlike the original kit of this truck, you don’t get any cargo provided, but you do get a nice set of rails for the truck to be displayed on. The build starts with the nicely detailed engine with the block, head and sump being glued together followed by the addition of the starter motor, alternator, water pump, auxiliary drive belt, cooling fan, cooling pipes, oil filler pipe. The gearbox is then assembled from three parts and glued to the engine assembly, along with intake manifold. The two, chassis rails are fitted with an extra beam where the truck bed will sit. These are held on the rails by three “U” bolts and their associated clamps. The rear leaf springs are then attached via their support links. Four cross members are then used to join the rails together, as well as the rear chassis end piece, to which the towing eye spring is attached. There is a three piece box attached to the left hand rail, near the front. The rear axle and differential is made up from six parts, if you include the drive shaft. This assembly is then fitted to the rear leaf springs, while the front suspension is made up on a single leaf spring assembly mounted laterally and fitted with the front axle, steering rack and support arms. The rear differential is then fitted with a triangular support structure which also supports the brake rods. The front and rear brake drums are then attached to the axles, followed by two wheels per side on the rear axle and one per side on the front axle. The wheels are then assembled from the outer hub, to which the inner, flanged ring is attached and the central boss detail. The front wheels are then glued to direct to the brake drums, while the rears are fitted with a small spacer between the drum and the wheel. The front chassis end cap is attached as are the two bumper side arms, while to the rear there is a choice of towing hook styles, one, just a single piece unit, the other is made up from five parts. The engine assembly is then glued into position, followed by the two piece radiator, two piece front bumper and two support brackets on chassis rails. The five piece exhaust is the attached to the right hand side. The two front fenders are each single piece units to which a small hook is attached before being fitted to the chassis, as are two of the lateral truck bed beams. The cab floor is also attached and fitted with the bench seat, gear stick and panel support. The three piece wiper/wiper motor is fitted to the front screen surround, once the clear screen has been fitted. The screen is then fitted with two small arms, these can be glued in either the stowed position for a closed screen, or down, so that the screen can be posed open. The rear of the bonnet section is then glued to the front of the screen support, along with eh two side sections and engine bulkhead which has been detailed with several small parts. Inside the foot pedals are attached lower bulkhead, part of the floor panel fitted earlier, before the front cab assembly is glued into place, along with the steering column and wheel. The three piece rear panel and roof of the cab are then glued into place, as are the two bonnet supports, between the bulkhead and the radiator. Each door is made up from five parts, including clear section, door handles, latches and window winders. The doors are then put to one side. The bonnet halves, split longitudinally are each made from two sections, which can be posed in either the open or closed positions, allowing the modeller to show of the engine should they so choose. The doors are then attached; again, they can be posed open or closed as the modeller wishes. The three piece horn is attached to a rail, which in turn is attached to the front of the vehicle between the fenders. The two, three piece headlights are then fitted, as is the single, two piece wing mirror, on the drivers side. The truck bed is then assembled from five parts, depending on the colour scheme being built you can have either four plank sides, front and rear sections you can use six plank sections. The bed, sides, front and rear sections are glued into place, completing the truck section of the build. The rest of the build concentrates on the tracks. These consists of sleepers, two lengths of rail per side being joined by fishplates, and the individual rail ties. When assembled and painted there will look very realistic, when compared with the Trumpeter style of rail track. Since they are of Russian gauge, you won’t be able to use them with Axis vehicles, but MiniArt do additional sets of track if you wish to build a rail diorama with the Soviet armoured railcars that are on the market. Decals The decal sheet gives the modeller six options. The decals are beautifully printed, are clear and in good register with a slightly matt finish. The different companies Initials are included for two of the options, as well as the other vehicles respective registration plates and insignia. The options are:- An Unidentified Waffen SS unit, presumably the Reichskommissariat, Ostland 1943 – 1944, four plank bed. An Unidentified Soviet unit used between 1941 and 1945, with four plank bed. An Unidentified of the Wehrmacht, on the Eastern Front 1941 – 1943, with a four plank bed. Deutsche Reichsbahn, (Imperial Railway Administration), on the Eastern Front between 1942 and 1943 with a four plank bed. An Unidentified Soviet unit used between 1941 and 1945 with a six plank bed. Deutsche Reichsbahn, (Imperial Railway Administration), Ostland, used between 1943 and 1944 with a six plank bed. Conclusion I just love these trucks from MiniArt, they are so evocative of the period and can be used in so many situations, whether on their own, or an evocative diorama. The oddity that is having a truck on rails will make it stand out in your collection and certainly be a conversation piece. The staff at MiniArt should be commended for giving us modellers such great kits with pretty much everything you need, just let your imagination run wild. Review sample courtesy of Miniart - Distibuted in the UK By Creative Models
  20. Hello Few pictures of my latest project.
  21. Peterbilt 352 'Pacemaker' 1:25 plastic kit from AMT Peterbilt was founded in 1839 in Oakland California making medium to heavy trucks mainly for the US market. If you think of a classic American truck its most likely to be a Peterbilt that you imagine with a big chrome grill and hood before cab layout. Peterbilt have also built cab over trucks but with the liberal rules on truck lengths in America drivers prefer the bonneted trucks, the 352 cab over ‘Pacemaker’ is modelled in 1:25 here by AMT. The 352 was launched in 1959 and was given the nickname ‘Pacemaker’ in 1969 by a contest among the staff at Peterbilt. The cab is made from sheet metal, and came in a variety of cab lengths from short day cab, to a massive 110inch long sleeper cab. The kit is old, so expect some flash and to put in some work on the fit. It is moulded in white plastic mostly with 2 chrome sprues and some clear parts for the windows, and orange and red clear for the lights. I will strip the chrome as it’s a little ‘toy’ like for me. In my haste to get building this I forgot to get pictures of the cab before I sprayed it in primer! The construction starts with the engine and transmission, the engine is a Detroit Diesel V8 and is made up of lots of different parts to give an accurate and detailed part for your model and the instructions name the parts like the valve covers, oil filters, etc, to give some insight into the makeup of the truck. This continues throughout the build. The engine and transmission can be detailed, and painted separately to the rest of the chassis. The chassis is a 157-inch wheel base and is made up of 2 rails, joined by 6 cross members, take care to keep the chassis straight and true or you will end up with a bent model. The front axle sits on metal leaf springs, with the duel drive back axles on air ride with the next 4 stages on the instructions covering the axles and suspension. These are all well detailed and include correct drive hubs, my only criticism is the front axle is fixed straight so you can’t pose the wheels turned. An aftermarket axle could be swapped in you wanted here. Final parts like the diesel tanks, air tanks and other ancillary parts can now be added to the chassis, as normal I would add some wires and cables to simulate the loom and air hoses around the chassis, have a look online and in the walk around section for inspiration here. The instructions give advice on the chassis colours, 2 decal options are included ‘Patriot’ would need painting light blue (to match the decals) or Orange and blue but as most Peterbilt where custom built, or painted during their service lives anything could be used. Check references if copying a real truck here. Now you move onto the cab, the interior, the main floor and lower walls come as a single tub with the centre of the dash board, there isn’t many parts to add as the cabs are simple inside and the instructions give details on the factory interior colours. The cab is the 86-inch mid-range version and is moulded in a single part and has some nice rivet detail on the outside and lots of holes in the roof for the air conditioner, roof lights and horns so if you don’t want these, get the filler out! You can paint and decal the cab shell, before glazing and sliding the interior tub in to make the build go easier. A pair of exhaust stacks are attached to the back of the cab, with some steps under the floor. The cab is attached to the chassis with 2 pins at the front so you can pose the cab tilted to show off the engine. I would probably add some ballast to the back of the chassis, maybe in the tyres to balance the model­­­. There are 10 tyres in the box, made from soft rubber with good tread and side wall detail to fit on the ‘Alcoa’ wheels found on the chrome sprue, each wheel is made from 2 parts sandwiching the tyre. From experience you can slip the tyre over the lip once they are assembled and painted. Trucks in the USA at the time the 352 was in production where not painted in company liveries, they came with a vast array of colourful stripe sets for the cabs, this kit includes a blue and red set, and a special ‘Patriot’ scheme along with some company names for the doors, Peterbilt logos and legal lettering for the cabs. The decal is very colourful and well printed with sharp crisp details and options. Conclusion This is a welcome re-issue from Round2 of a classic American truck with lots of good detail on the parts. It’s an old kit so expect some work on cleaning and fitting the parts. There is aftermarket cab decals and other parts to suit this truck to make it your own and the numerous options on the 352 means you can chop the cab, and chassis to make different versions of the 352. Review sample courtesy of UK distributors for
  22. So while the gloss is drying on build No1, it's time to crack on with the main event. Another 2 x12 hr builds for this as want to give the paint the best chance to dry. Starting shots Time to crack out the Tamiya Pink Primer.
  23. Hi folks. It's been a while since I last posted anything as I have have to concentrate more on my business. This is one of the many kits that I received from good ol' Santa. I decided not to add any lighting or anything and to pretty much build it out-of-the-box with my own colour scheme (Ford Gold). This is the first Ming kit that I've made and, overall, I was quite pleased with everything. The only downside was that no chrome parts were included and as these kits cost that little bit more, I was disappointed as Revell include chrome parts in a lot of their kits for less cost. Anyway, I had an old Routemaster Bus engine going spare so I thought about mounting it on the back of the truck to give it a payload. Also added are chains, rope and wood supports to keep it secure. I have included some section builds in the WIP forum to show some of the details that are hidden when assembled. Thanks for viewing. It's always appreciated.
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