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Found 2 results

  1. Apologies if this is in the wrong section, but I’m wondering if anyone has used these camo masks for their kits? https://topnotchmasks.com/shop/camo-masks/hawker-harrier-gr3-wrap/ Would they work for aerosol painting? Are they worth the price? Can they be re-used? It has to be easier than blu-tack worms and shopping bags! But is there a risk of seepage underneath or pulling up the first coat?
  2. Camouflage Masks & Insignia for Models 1:72, 1:48, 1:32 & 1:24 Top Notch Masks for Models Masking your model can be quite a time consuming effort, with plenty of room for error, which is why we are starting to see companies bringing out masking sets to speed this process along, and to help us concentrate on the purely creative aspect, rather than the dull slog of masking tape, Blutak and overspray. To Notch do just that, and if you're familiar with member SeanM, you'll probably know that he's behind the company, so it's a modeller to modeller process. Sean has set up the business to provide masks in the major scales to allow us time-pressed modellers to spray camouflage, create painted markings, fuselage codes and individual insignia. There are already a substantial number of sets available in 1:72, 1:48 and 1:32, with more to come, and I believe that if you are looking for a particular subject, Sean might be able to help. The sets arrive in a close-fitting ziplok bag, with a cover page and instructions, the masks and a piece of card to protect the package from accidental damage. The masks are made of a thin vinyl-like material, and are cut in-situ on the backing paper, so are easy to "weed" out from the backing for use. They have a degree of stiffness that prevents them from curling in on themselves, but not so much that they won't settle down on your model. The adhesive is gentle enough to be removed from the painted model, but strong enough to reuse in between sessions, or even between models. The instructions are fairly easy to follow, but having the numbers next to the masks would prevent an element of flipping the instructions back and forth. I added the numbers next to each part with a pen to help me out for the test I carried out for this review. For the test I used my 1:72 Heinkel He.111 wing that has served me well over the years, and applied some 1:48 Spitfire masks to it (I know – heresy!). They fitted surprisingly well considering, and I began with a base coat of Lifecolor Dark Earth, as Lifecolor's finish is quite delicate, although it is a good acrylic colour system. With the brown dried overnight, I placed the masks on the wing as accurately as I could, given the disparity of subject matter. With a bit of burnishing down over the raised panel lines, I commenced spraying of the Dark Green, which was again Lifecolor from their Easy 3 Battle of Britian set (MS06). Once touch dry, I removed the masks non-too-carefully to test their adhesive, and I'm pleased to say that they came through with flying colours with no paint lifting! There was no paint bleeding under the mask, even around the raised panel lines, and the mask stayed where it was put. There was a very slight lift on the leading edge where the radius of the curve tested the adhesive's sticking power to the extreme, but it lifted only after I'd finished painting, so it didn't matter. The two colours didn't have high contrast at this stage, and I hadn't buffed the paint to remove any slight build-up around the masks. After doing that and applying a coat of AK Interactive Gauzy (my new favourite clear coat) however, the crispness of the masking really shows up. Mightily impressive. Insignia Mask Sets 1:72, 1:48, 1:32, 1:24 These sets are for your stars and bars, roundels, crosses etc., and are multi-part masks that can at first appear a little daunting to the uninitiated. There are a concise set of instructions on how to place them in the correct order, so fret not! I'm looking forward to having a go at these. US Star September 1943 – January 1947 - 30" markings, and a handy table on the rear of the instructions to help you find out where you should put them. US Star 1919 – July 1943 - 30" markings, and a handy table on the rear of the instructions to help you find out where you should put them. US Star – Operation Torch - 30" circular markings, with a yellow outline. RAF early 1939-1940 Fighter Insignia - Upper wing roundels 36", Lower wing roundel Rt, Fuselage Roundel – non-standard, Tail fin flash, Upper wing roundel 56", Upper wing roundel 49", Fuselage roundel, Lower wing roundel 50", Lower wing roundel 45" RAF Late 1942 – 1945 Fighter Insignia - Upper wing roundel 56", Upper wing roundel 49", Fuselage roundel, Lower wing roundel, Tain fin flash (clipped), Tail fin flash Camouflage Schemes 1:72, 1:48, 1:32, 1:24 Masks for the camo on the upper sides of the aircraft, demarcation lines and colour cut-outs around insignia. P-40BC or Kittyhawk (RAF) Mosquito IV and VI Hurricane Mk.I Pattern A Hurricane Mk.I Pattern B Spitfire Mk.I-V Pattern A Spitfire Mk.I-V Pattern B Spitfire Mk.Vb of I R Gleed Spitfire Mk.IXc JE-J Axis Camouflage Masks 1:72, 1:48, 1:32, 1:24 Traditionally more complex than Allied schemes, this range of sets will help with all those variations on the standard splinter pattern. Focke Wulf Fw.190A Series Messerschmitt Bf.109 E3-4 Conclusion Masking can be a chore, and for a transaction involving money, you can pass that chore on and be certain of some fancy masking that will give you more time to concentrate on more fun tasks. Review sample courtesy of
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