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  1. As someone who's stash is about 90% FAA aircraft, I've been keen since getting back into the hobby, to settle on a combination of paints for Extra Dark Sea Grey and Dark Slate Grey for the Temperate Sea Scheme. What I've discovered, is that my perception of TSS (what I like) may or may not be historically accurate, and while one colour might seem bang on in isolation, it doesn't quite look the part, to my eye at least, when combined with its counterpart. For that reason, I've made a grid of different options for the two paints, which is below, to try and get a feel for not just the colours, but how they contrast against each other. Since my Handwriting is particularly dodgy, I'll go down the list: Dark Slate Grey: -Colourcoats ACRN06. Sprays beautifully, has a lovely decallable sheen. With ACRN02, it gives just a tad more contrast than I like (no doubt being pre-programmed with Humbrol from childhood) -Humbrol 224. I couldn't find the acrylic, so the enamel will have to do alone. I always felt the humbrol EDSG/DSG had a slight worn muddiness when combined. -XF13 - this was a speculative match-of-a-match-of-a-match. Clearly way out -XF73 - I've seen the XF73-XF77 combo quoted as a decent straight out of the pot Tamiya Match. I thought I'd check it out. -Been banging on about it for yonks, but @Casey posted some nice mixes here calculated from spectrophtometer measurements. Thanks Casey! EDIT: These were (incorrectly) mixed by mass rather than by volume however. -Mr. Hobby Aqueous H421 (RLM81). This one was gleaned from @Phantome's excellent colour guides, which sadly can only be found from the web archive now. I went with the former as it looked 'greener' in the pot to me* when buying. -Mr Color C012 Olive Drab (ANA613 version??); since it's apparently a good match to the Olive Drab used as a substitute colour for US built Aircraft. Extra Dark Sea Grey: -Colourcoats ACRN02. nuff said -Humbrol 123 enamel and Acrylic. I was amazed to find the acrylic sprayed beautifully with Vallejo thinners. I'm always hearing mumblings about the quality of these paints, but was surprised how well behaved it was. This was the dropper bottle version, not the pots or the new gen2 (which I don't think are out yet). The only downside is there's no obvious way to mix them nicely, being sealed and lacking a stirrer ball as they do. -XF24 lacks the blue tone, but I often see used as a substitute. -XF77/73, as above, has been quoted variously as a fair match using Tamiyas -Casey's mix. I might have overdone the blue; the ratios are quite skewed, meaning it can be hard to get the smaller components accurate without mixing up a large batch. I think I made about a gram or so. I have found this tends to a lighter, bluer 'faded EDSG' tone when mixing in the past too, however. EDIT: These were (incorrectly) mixed by mass rather than by volume however. -Roy Sutherland's mix is oft-quoted. I modify it for ease to 17 parts XF24: 2 parts XF2 : 1 part XF8. Incidentally, his DSG mix involves adding drops of colour to a whole bottle of XF22, which feels a little woolly to me, and in any case, I didn't want to do for the sake of a colour chip. -Gunze Aqueous and Lacquer H333 and C333. The H333 was overthinned and badly sprayed as you can see, these have worked out very close in colour and texture for me when used in the past. Caveats: -These were all airbrushed, thinned using their brand thinners. The exception is Humbrol, where I've used Colourcoats thinners for enamel, and Vallejo thinners for the acrylic. They are sprayed onto sheet styrene, that has been primed with Gunze Mr finishing surfacer 1500 grey. -You may notice some change in tone at the edges. This is because I wanted to cancel out the shine that the glossier paints might have, by applying a thin layer of Gunze GX113 flat varnish, which hopefully hasn't affected the colours too much. I retained the natural finish at the edges, since it's personally useful to gauge the finish for practical reasons (like whether one can apply decals straight). -The photo was taken in clouded daylight with a phone camera, hopefully giving a reasonable representation. -Of course, TSS also includes Sky type S and for biplanes, variously Sky Grey, Dark Sea Grey, Light Slate grey. Clearly, I've not compared these (although a Sky type S comparison is below for those interested), since I made this to help solve the particular issue of the top side camouflage, the combination of whose two colours I've found to be very sensitive when producing the overall 'look' *- I'm colourblind (deuteranomly (bad green receptor) for those interested. The most common one)! So really I have no idea what I'm talking about here, I can only make the grid, and pick what looks right to me. I'm not particularly bothered if that turns out to be red against neon orange! Hopefully however, the grid will be of use to people who can actually see green from brown. Discussion: I'd be interested to hear peoples' takes on these colours. For starters I can't really see the green in the DSG, so would be interested to hear a 'handwavium' description of the colours from someone who can. I personally like the scheme when the two colours are more similar in tone and somewhat desaturated to give a more subdued gradual fade. This may be a product of having used humbrols in my childhood. An example would be the Beaufort in the RAF Museum, Hendon, which I believe is over Azure Blue (although one of you is no doubt going to tell me that this isnt TSS!): Again I make no comment on the historical accuracy of this match, I just personally like it from a aesthetic point of view. To this end, Casey's mix, XF73 and H224 all look quite promising to me for DSG, but again I can't comment on the 'greenishness'. The Gunze choices both have too rich a saturated 'brownishness' to my taste, whatever that means. Maybe CaseyDSG and ACRN02 or XF77; or the XF77/73 combo both look nice. I know I like the Humbrol match, but don't particularly trust humbrols of recent, the lastest batch of enamel I purchased are very grainy and I've not really mastered them. Having said that, I was pleasantly surprised by the behaviour of the Humbrol acrylics, so perhaps will see (since there are signs that they're discontinuing these colours in enamel) if they bring them out in gen2 acrylic. I don't tend to like water based acrylics, but if they work like the H123 did, I'd happily take the results. Mixing paint types is something I tend to avoid, but have recently combined colourcoats and tamiya without any undue effects, so it's not something to rule out for me. Anyway I'd love to hear peoples' thoughts on what their favoured combinations are, these brands or otherwise. Cheers, Andy PS. Oh, here are the Sky-type S matches for anyone interested: 1:1 is 1part XF2 to 1part XF21
  2. Hello everybody... This will be my second build of three. Its the old Otaki 1/48 F4U-1a Corsair, very high quality for its day in the 1970’s with engraved panel lines. Ive built many of these over the years before Tamiya’s kits hit the scene. Other than the poor representation of the P&W R-2800, single piece canopy, and solid wings it is still a very good kit. I intend to try and replace the engine in mine as I have a few spares in my collection. This will represent a plane from I believe 1836 Squadron in January of 1945. It wears the Temperate Sea Scheme and standard roundels of the North Atlantic. I believe this was done as they were working up and training for deployment to the Pacific theater. Very similar to this profile but roundels are different. And this photo. If Im incorrect please anyone chime on and i can fix whatever. The rest of the sprue photo’s. Im not sure and seriously doubt the F.A.A. Corsairs ever used this mount for bombs. However if they did and I can see it I may use this instead of the drop tank. Please feel free to ask questions, post comments, and or add thoughts. Dennis
  3. One of the few (and perhaps best known) Hudson units operating over the MTO was Australian-manned No.459 Squadron. These Hudsons (Cyclone-engined Mk.III and Mk.IIIA as well as TwinWasp-engined Mk.V and Mk.VI) had RAF serials, of which some 80-90 are known. Last pictures of these a/c, taken in early 1944, show most of them in high-demarcation anti-submarine RAF Coastal Command scheme of Extra Dark Sea Grey and Dark Slate Grey (Temperate Sea scheme) over White. But in the web there are also photos from earlier period, showing the a/c in low-demarcation scheme. I would like to know your opinion, whether these planes wore Temperate Land Scheme (DG/DE over Sky), earlier Temperate Sea Scheme (EDSG/DSG over Sky), Transport Command scheme (EDSG/DSG over Azure) or Desert Scheme (DE/MS over Azure). Some of them feature more contrasted areas, some are less-contrasted, so.... The photos I mention depict: T9397 Mk.III http://www.adf-gallery.com.au/gallery/459-Hudson/P007594 and http://www.adf-gallery.com.au/gallery/459-Hudson/P990152 V8998 Mk.III http://www.adf-gallery.com.au/gallery/459-Hudson/P892238 AE510 Mk.III http://www.adf-gallery.com.au/gallery/459-Hudson/P027089 FH242 Mk.IIIA http://www.adf-gallery.com.au/gallery/459-Hudson/P027085 FH257 Mk.IIIA http://www.adf-gallery.com.au/gallery/459-Hudson/P007596 FH285 Mk.IIIA http://www.adf-gallery.com.au/gallery/459-Hudson/P027092 FH292 Mk.IIIA http://www.adf-gallery.com.au/gallery/459-Hudson/P027088 FH300 Mk.IIIA http://www.adf-gallery.com.au/gallery/459-Hudson/P016921 FH351 Mk.IIIA http://www.adf-gallery.com.au/gallery/459-Hudson/P027084 as well as the unidentified a/c featuring nose art http://www.adf-gallery.com.au/gallery/459-Hudson/P007597 As the "anti-sub" planes belong to the same batch FH227-FH459 it looks almost sure, that white undersurfaces and fuselage sides were introduced "in field" over the previous low-demarcation scheme. But this is only my opinion, however... Cheers Michael
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