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  1. WIP Saipan Sherman I came across a neat video of some rusty wrecked semi sunken Sherman Tanks in or should I say off Saipan. I really like the colours and contrast between say the tropical blue of the Lagoon and the rusty reds and oranges. I grabbed a few screenshots of the wrecks in the video that is worth a watch :- I started by buying a 18cmx 18cm photo frame , pulling out the retaining clips, epoxy and sealing in the glass with clear bathroom sealant so when I add the epoxy later it wont run out the bottom. When I have done similar dioramas in the past with perspex sides I have run into the issue where I ended up marking the perspex and it made getting in about the base awkward, so I decided this time to put spaces in until I got the base completed and the model mounted then I will take the spacers out and replace them with perspex sides of the same size, then do the resin pour. My next step I cut foam board and mounted it in the frame in order to raise the "seabed"up , I slotted in the spacers and then mixed tile grout with some Mig Ammo ochre, I then added quite a bit of water and smoothed out the grout to get rid of any scultping marks and make the seabed more natural in profile. I decided to be a little experimental and added some play sand to the wet grout to see if it will stick , if it doesnt I can simply add more with some PVA glue and it will give me the finish am looking for. Ive also started the Sherman, its the Heller kit, that might not be the exact model of Sherman, I believe the USMC used M4A2 and the heller kit is a French A4, I feel like the diffrence will be minimal as the end result will be a sherman shaped rusty reck so for me it was an acceptable trade off. I primed the sprues with Vallejo Rust Primer, I built the turret and the I test fitted the main upper and lower hull and the turret together, I decided to use a stipple effect to start building up layers of rust up on it. The next steps is getting the running gear built up and mounted on the Sherman. I also need to scratch build some of the rusty gun in the turret, I need to drill some holes in the turret top and then get the turret completed inside, I also need to scratch build the back end where the engine block was and figure out what bulkheads I need to put in and think how i can build a engine block, it doesn't need to be accurate as its going to be really rusty and clogged with barnacles and sand and stuff. Any thoughts or feedback, hints or tips is really welcome Mark
  2. I love the Renault FT and I have two in 1/72 scale in my collection, however as you can see they are about the size of a postage stamp. So doing the various calculations 1/24 gives me an 8.2 inch long model so a nice size. This is going to be a slow off project build and I’m intending to build it with all the hatches open. So next step scale some plans up and start cutting styrene
  3. Hello, This question may seem odd, but when looking through Pz 4 models and I’ve noticed that there seems to be no Ausf. “i” variant, only Ausf. H followed directly by Ausf. J. I wonder if there was something special about the supposed “Pz 4 Ausf. i” or whether they’ve simply skipped the “i” version because “i” could be interpreted like a roman number 1 or something like that? This may be a silly question, I just couldn’t find results for Pz. 4 Ausf. i on the internet. Thank you.
  4. Hi guys, here is Panther Ausf. D from Academy I've finished recently. It's the first element of the Eastern Front diorama I'm working on. I've made some alterations to the original moulded model like open hatches replicated in resin or the side skirts made of thin sheet of brass. No crew for now, they will come later. Thanks for viewing
  5. Just completed the M5A1. Pls enjoy the video. Thanks. Please post phots, links to you tube channels are not allowed
  6. Hello, I want to present the French light tank R35 Tamiya 1:35, "Le Buffle" 21st Combat Tank Battalion, June 1940. this is my first attempt with painting camo. I used Vallejo Model Colors with brush. The black lines are made with a Edding marker. I don't use any pigments. But maybe I should...
  7. Finally finished this one... a shout out to Anirudh - theaa2000 - whose great diorama motivated me to go beyond what was just going to be a vignette of the kubelwagen and figures and scratch build the building and interior. The building is not elaborate but still took a fair time to create. My first tree also. The diorama references are these - For the building and the tree, I used this picture I found from the Bardia area... For the idea I initially thought would be a good vignette... More pictures of figures in Figures section... Some close-up pics... Only tank model I know (Bronco) with separate spark plugs... a lovely but fiddly model to build with a nice interior... Breda from Tamiya LRDG kit and Model Victoria resin boxes, oil drums, helmets, rifles etc... Panzer Ace jerry cans... Thanks for looking. Jeremy
  8. I've always wanted to do a German tank, for far more reasons than I can remember. Zvedza bought out the Panzer IV Ausf. a couple of years ago and one has been in my stash for a while now. I wanted to do the tank with p!enty of detail to get stuck into, so I hunted around for some interior parts. Eduard provided some decent PE while CMK chipped in with Engine bay, Driver and Radio Op's seating and Turret bustle. This kit does have it's own turret bustle, so I'll build both to decide which one is best. I'm still waiting on a turned gun barrel, I've been told it could take up to four weeks, so we'll have to wait and see.
  9. Now as we all know, the nazi tiger tank was probably the greatest tank built in WW2. Here is probably my best build yet. Now okay this is just a starter set and yes I am only 13 whilst doing this sort of stuff. But I am happy with it. Great kit overall, and I had a go at some homemade washes using a dark brown and black washes over the details of the tank. Now I did forget to put a Matt varnish layer on before the washes and this did lead to a little peeling of the paint but nothing too severe. Please feel free to suggest any things that I could change or make better as I plan to do another of the same kit soon Please check out the Link to Flickr images below- https://www.flickr.com/photos/193567223@N05/albums/72157719704272992
  10. Dear comrades... This is my first AFV model after a lot of aircrafts , I really enjoyed with the heavy weathering process. In that case, this is the awesome Takom 1/35 model kit, with MasterClub metal tracks. This is my second attempt to build a Merkava, the first one was in 2000 with a poor Trumpeter kit when I was a teenager that was abandoned by me after several frustrations . Here is a full Flickr album: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmRtfzCx
  11. Heyyyyyy cool people, so the clueless new member's first project is going to be a Russian T-55 1/48 from Tamiya. Ok, I had to start from somewhere so I did a little bit of research about tank number 826, so I can have some reference photos for building and painting later. Turns out a tank like this didn't exist??? There's a person on this forum who has done very detailed research about this specific tank but it seems what he could find is mostly written. Do you know what this means? Total artistic license which also means that I want to make it as if it has seen some action in a muddy environment like on the box art. Even though I won't be making a historically inaccurate tank I still want to be like the real deal. The thing is there are pictures showing different details on the base model T-55. Like the 2 elongated noles on each side of the main gun. One looks like a viewport and the other is sometimes empty. Sometimes looks like it has a machine gun inside and on other photos I have seen whole anti-air sort of attachments, so it's confusing. I mean I know that as just a modeller who replicates what he sees it's never going to be 100% historically accurate but you know if I make it like 90-95% there I will be able to sleep better at night.
  12. This has been quite a good kit so far. Nice and simple, tracks came moulded all as one which saved so much blood, sweat and tears as this is only a 1/72 scale model. All the parts have gone together so far with little to no sanding required. Paints look fairly good. Now it’s just time to paint it!
  13. Good day, colleagues. In parallel with the previous work from the leftovers, I took out one model, which my father began to do for a long time. Starring-Dragon 6418. The hatch under the German commander's cupolla is from another Dragon box, the combat tower itself is from the Zvezda Pz.III Support rollers - from Su-100 Zvezda with replacement of bolts. Machine Guns - Zedval All the garbage on the wing from different manufacturers, MB figures and a combined "solyanka"(one in commander's cupolla) Welded seams, the texture of the casting on the tower, replacement of bolts, fitting the model in accordance with the photo of the prototype(although the photos, as always, shine with quality) The prototype is extremely interesting. I will give a description from Y.Pasholok. "The 1st Leningrad Tank Red Banner Order of Suvorov Brigade (previously called the 123rd Tank Brigade). In the summer of the 44th, the tanks of this brigade had numbers ranging from 100-199. One of the most interesting tanks under the number "154". This tank was released in the spring-summer of ' 41. It has a German commander's cupolla installed on it turret , later tracks, and some other details not peculiar to it." Thank you all for your attention, enjoy your viewing
  14. Morning all, I thought you might enjoy this WIP. I saw someone post one of these on twitter and couldn't really resist. The first job is the 2 and a half million wheels (well, 74 I think). Individually these are pretty easy to put together and clean up, I found it best to actually build them and then clean up any sprue that was left. Being Meng there was no flash to worry about, if you're doing this kit I'd suggest you cut the parts for each wheel type and put them in separate tubs, then sit and watch a film with a file and a scalpel blade to hand. The wheels are held in place by rails that sit over the top (well, bottom when the kit is built but you get the point). I found the easiest thing to do here was to put a drop of extra-thin quick setting at the end of each bar. Obviously some of this seeped through so a few of the wheels don't spin, whenever I find myself in this situation I agonise about whether that's ok and then remember that it's not like I'm going to be driving this around on my bench going 'brum brum' (well not much anyway) so who cares if the wheels work. There are lots of details to attach to the hull and sponsons, these are mostly simple and fit well although throughout this kit I find the grab handles to be a bit fragile. I think I snapped most of them and, whilst they were easy enough to repair it was still irritating. I think if you wanted to you could cut the brackets for them out of styrene sheet, drill holes and put wire through for the bars, I don't think that would save any effort but it might be less irritating. When you assemble the hull the top section holds the drive wheels in place, then the bottom slots in. At this point I had a little bit of a fight to get it into place and to get the fittings at the ends to line up, nothing to worry about but I did manage to knock off one of the PE grilles, next time I think I'd leave the PE off until the end. I also found when I added the towing eyes some of them fit over the seam and are pretty good at pulling the two hull parts together and closing any gaps that remain. Char 2C The eagle eyed amongst you may notice I've left off the MGs, there is no need to fit them until right at the end of the build so I didn't to avoid breaking them. Char 2C I am really taken with the size of this beast, the 1/35 figure is for scale, it's so bit I struggled to get a photo on my bench. I've got a vague idea about setting up some sort of simple 'diorama' with some figures on the roof of the tank, maybe you'll get to see that later. Char 2C Finally the sub assemblies, the turrets are lovely and simple to build (although I draw your attention to the Stroboscopic Cupolas which are a wonderful concept - http://www.landships.info/landships/tank_articles/stroboscopic_cupolas.html). The gun barrel is in 2 parts and doesn't have any visible rifling which is a shame given the size but clean-up wasn't an issue. The top of the engine was a great sub assembly, almost a kit in its own right. It has numerous tiny pipes which, I must admit, I approached with some trepidation. In the end they required minimal clean-up and though fiddley they slotted into place fine. These are the only parts that would make me hesitate before recommending this kit to a real beginner, although I think if you did break one it would be easy to replace it with bent wire (I'm sure some folks are already doing this as standard anyway). As you can see, I managed to mess up the PE here as the grille came away from the rim when I tried to take it off the fret which was a bit frustrating, it was my mistake and hopefully with a little fenageling it should look ok. Char 2C by Stefan Bridle, on Flickr That's where I'm at for now, I think I'll probably prime the hull etc over the next couple of days and worry about the tracks later. I'm thinking of using one of the monotone paint jobs from the box (probably Normandie) using Tamiya XF-58 as the base colour. The instructions suggest Vallejo 'olive-brown' but their illustrations are dark green. I want to build this as it might have been in 1939 before war broke out, I think that means it should be in 'vert-olive' although I can't find any colour references for the precise shade so I might use a bit of imagination. One last thing to add is that these vehicles were mostly used for propaganda and moral building films. One of the cool things about this build is that you don't often get to build an individual vehicle that we have this amount of reference photography and footage of. This video is worth a watch: Thanks all and hope you enjoy the thread.
  15. Hi guys, most of the time I´am into aircraft modelling but after more than ten years I gave another try to an tank. It´s the Trumpeter Strv 103C in 1/72 scale in typical swedish splinter camo. I was fascinated by the so called S-Tank since a long time because of his unusual design. The tank itself was built oob except the towing cable, the infantryman was converted from a modern Zvezda GI. The trees are my first attempt in building them from stranded wire, fleece and Noch-scatter-material. Edit 28.11. ...some more pics... I hope you like this little sidestep, some more will follow. Comments and criticism are appreciated.
  16. Dear Colleagues For several years it has become the norm for armour modellers to finish their projects with a greater or lessor degrees of rain streaks of dust and dirt. But how realistic is this look for a vehicle in action? I can find this rain dirt streaks starting to form on my car but only after it has been sitting idle for a few weeks (thank you corona virus). The slightest touch will disturb/destroy them. I know that if I view an outdoor exhibit at an AFV in a museum (don't touch) the rain mark/streaks are very eye catching. Have we got carried away thanks to viewing outdoor museum exhibits? I'm not saying these rain streaks would not be present on vehicles in action, but I don't think they would be very eye catching. The crew would be constantly clambering over the vehicle and the multiple challenges from wind, rain, dust and mud would surely destroy most of these filigree rain streaks? What do you think? Andrew
  17. Hello everyone, I haven't posted here for a while but thought I'd show something I made recently and I think some of you might find it interesting. A while ago I made this Tamiya Pz IV but recently I wondered how hard it would be to put a servo within the tank to make the turret move. You can see the model in the image below. I have also uploaded a YouTube video showing the movement which can be seen here: It looks normal from the outside but below you can see the internals. I have used an Arduino Nano microcontroller to control the servo. The code I wrote generates a random angle to turn the turret to, rotates the turret and then waits for 2 seconds before generating another random angle. There is a little on/off switch hidden on the underside and the 9V battery fits perfectly within the chassis. The body of the servo is attached to the top half of the hull with wooden skewers and hot glue, it's not pretty but it works. And the arm of the servo is glued to the seat on the turret, so as the arm of the servo moves, the turret rotates. The movement is a little jerky as the servo was only cheap but I think it looks great regardless. The only down side is that the Arduino Nano takes a surprising amount of current so the 9V battery only lasts for about 2 days with moderate usage. I am planning to use an ATtiny85 microcontroller which should use a fraction of the current. A very cool upgrade would also to use inducting charging circuits to wirelessly power the electronics. The transmitter could be placed in the scenery and the receiver placed at the bottom of the floor in the tank. (https://thepihut.com/products/wireless-charging-module-5v-1a?variant=27740714769) The images below show the internals. (ignore the cut out on the chassis, that was a previous failed attempt but can't be seen due to the the spaced armour plates) Thank you very much for looking. Please let me know what you think Regards Shaun
  18. At last I finally completed this offering from Unimodel
  19. Here I present another recent kit to be completed in my household . Built by my father, airbrushed by me, final touching ups by my brother. The airbrush started stuttering and I ended up mostly covering up everything, to which my brother had to fix. Not very convinced by this, but anyway, my brother and my father likes it so here it is;
  20. Hi all! Here is my 1/35 Dragon M1A1 Abrams SEP, built up as an ~early OIF tank. Although the base kit from Dragon is excellent (and was for many years the best Abrams on the market) I have added a lot of extra details to this build since the tanks used carry so much on them In no particular order I have added Mine plow (from the early Tamiya Abrams) Stowage from Eduard, Real Models, Legends Productions and the kit itself Scratchbuilt tarps, sand bags & straps Bottles from Real Model Spent casings and links from RB models (and someone else who I forget) It's not representative of a particular tank - rather I used a lot of reference photos of multiple early invasion tanks to build this and all the little details are taken from photos of the real things. Despite being from a much earlier kit the Tamiya plow is still pretty detailed, and at least at the time I built this it was the best out there. The rear tow cable is a copper one from Karaya which helped it bend and form more realistically. A tank has to have a funny name, right? Duck tape fixes everything, even in 1/35 world The crushed bottles are resin pieces from Real Model (I think) The .50 cal casings are brass items from RB models, and the links are resin items, but I forget who from. The M4s are both from Live Resin The IFF panel on the front glacis plate is scratchbuilt from plastic card and foil, and was damaged similar to reference photos "Caution Restricted Head Clearance" Thanks for looking, comments appreciated. Enjoy the long weekend!
  21. Hallo again The subject is the tank development in WW2 on German and Russian side. The idea is: Due to the topographic issue in Europe to show two total different ways of thinking, development and handling. As a basic literature, I can recommend the book: Der Panzer und die Mechanisierung des Krieges Eine deutsche Geschichte 1890 bis 1945 Von Markus Pöhlmann There is no English translation for this book. In opposition to most other literature about tank warfare, this book was basic for a habilitation at university, therefore it has scientific level. My points I want to remark are: The basic design of German vs. Russian tanks had as a cornerstone: · German: Front gear, front drive and rear engine. · Russian: Rear Gear, rear drive, rear engine · German: Straight hull · Russian: Inclined hull · German: Otto motor · Russian: Diesel engine · German: Torsion spring · Russian: Coil spring This are the basic. The Russian track is simpler and better suited for unpaved roads. The production and maintenance hours for a German tank are much higher as for a Russian tank. The sophisticated gear units of German tanks, especially V and VI are prone to damage. Resources necessary to keep a tank unit serviceable differ very much from German to Russian. Assembly lines were forbidden in Germany by the leading Wehrmacht office. To increase the factory output in Germany, Minister Speer did so much. His effort is widely unknown even today. Equivalent to this episode, you can see many other examples in history or present day, which seem queer. (Present day F-35 vs. Su-57) Happy modelling
  22. hi guys im new to this. was wondering if any of you knew if the rubber tracks from the tamiya 1.35 tiger early model would fit the late version of the kit. many thanks mark
  23. Hi friends, here you have my last build, a big project: the King Tiger from Takom. Tanks are not my preferred subject, but this one I think turns out quite well. I like specially the interior of the model. It's been difficult to me to ensemble the tracks, since this are separated and I don't know how to calculate how much of each goes for each side. I added some rifles and an MP40 in the interior and three used munitions. I'm think in sell this model... Thanks Ricardo https://flic.kr/s/aHsmHGoht5
  24. Hello all, This is my version of Mini-Art's T-60. Pretty much built out of the box (just added the ignition wires). Resin figure is from Evolution Miniatures. there is definitely something about is winter whitewash camouflage, when I start on one of those I can't stop weathering.
  25. Well, I've decided to try a WIP of my new M1A2 SEP TUSK (or Abrams Acronyms ). So far I've assembled components for the lower hull, minus the wheels, some components on the upper hull and turret, the reactive armour on the skirts, and the main gun. I then masked off the appropriate areas and gave it a coat of Rust-Oluem Terracotta effect for the anti-slip coating. Came out better than expected, but I think I'll need to lay some primer over it soon since the little grains in the paint seem to flake off fairly easy. Anyway, here's some pics of my work so far. That's all I've got for now
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