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  1. Tamiya kits are always pretty good, although I dislike how they do their canopy and windscreen, it makes for some tricky gluing. Other than that I used the Microscale Decals 72-105 for the Israeli markings and even after 20 years in the decal folder, they worked perfectly. Paints used were Gunze 334 light grey with 54 blue and 402 green brown. Thanks for looking.
  2. Hi everybody, calling all Corsair maniacs experts for this build, such as @corsaircorp and @Corsairfoxfouruncle just to name the two I'm more familiar with I always loved the Corsair, but know very little about it, so any help, hints, tips, references and pointers will be greatly appreciated This is more of a bookmark than an actual start, I still need to study some proper documentation about the subject, anyway here are a few pics. The kit: It's the well known Tamiya 1/48 box - I don't think there's much to say about it, anyway here are the sprues: The second pilot figure, in the "jumping on board" pose, is very tempting... Clear parts Decals (as usual, I plan to use very few of them ) and the scheme I want to reproduce, Jolly Rogers' BIG HOG Actual works to start soon-ish, I may venture into a foray in another field of modelling before/along this, we'll see. Meanwhile, I'm all ears Ciao Edit: I almost forgot to add that my friend @corsaircorp had sent me some resin bits to tart up this build: I'm not sure if I'll be using the whole engine or just replace the crankcase of the kit with the resin one - definitely going to use the resin seat, though
  3. This is a kit I've have for around 5 years and never been quite confident enough in my ability to do it justice but I've finally decided to give it a go. The biggest challenge is going to be the painting to make it look like its been out at sea for a while. Making a start with the main fuselage.
  4. Ten years ago, almost to the day, on 24 July 2014, I was fortunate to witness the rollout of the RAAF's first F-35A in a ceremony at Lockheed Martin's Fort Worth plant (back when I worked in the media). Given that small connection, that jet, known to the program as AU-1, and to the RAAF as A35-001 (and wearing 2OCU tail markings), will be the subject of my first/main/only* build for this GB. Which I will build using Tamiya's state-of-the-art 1/48 kit. Just look at that beautiful styrene goodness. Like the F-35 program itself mine will have a little bit of Australian industry involvement, thanks to decals... ... and masks from Ronin Graphics. Plus (not pictured) I plan to try SMS paint's Have Glass grey (PL59) for the main FS36170 grey (perhaps in a mix with something to give it the metallic effect). I also have 3D decals for the instrument panel and seats from Reskit. Incidentally I still have some merch - a cap and two challenge coins - from the rollout event. So I should be able to put together some sort of cool display with the finished model and the challenge coins in particular. Here's just hoping for an on-time and on-budget build! Thanks for looking in, Gerard (*TBC - I would love to build one each of an F-35A, B and C in this GB, but my build rate of late suggests otherwise!)
  5. Here is my latest build using the very nice Tamiya kit of the F-4B combined with Furball's "Bravo Mig Killers" decal sheet #48-011. I can't quite believe that at the grand old age of 61, this is my first 1/48 Phantom! The Furball decals were great to work with - strong, with sharp delineation of colour and bedding down very well. I also bought an Eduard stencil sheet but I abandoned use part way through as the stencils were too black and did not look right on the model. I therefore resorted to the Tamiya stencils. Yes, the Tamiya carrier film is on the thick side but they have two things going for them: excellent colours and a very clear placement guide. I just wish Tamiya would outsource their decal production to a company like Cartograf. I tried to keep the weathering fairly subtle. My Go To products are Flory washes as they are very forgiving if I want to undo an effect. The back end was done with various shades of Alclad and AK Extreme Metal combined with the Tamiya "cosmetic-type" weathering powders. I did choose to weather the underside more heavily. This used a combination of Flory wash + stippled Games Workshop washes + Tamiya weathering powders. To display the model, I decided to have a go at recreating a carrier deck. The MD-3 tractor came from SkunkModels and the figures from the Hasegawa US Navy crew set. The tie downs are photo etched. I drilled 5mm holes in a sheet of plastic card, then glued the card to the MDF base. I established that USS Coral Sea had 4 point tie downs spaced 10 feet apart (which works out at 2.5 inches in 1/48 scale). I created the anti-slip coating by stippling cheap artist acrylic paint with a piece of sponge. The advantage of artist acrylics is they are gloopy and hold the stippled effect when they dry. All in all, a very enjoyable build and I would recommend the Tamiya kit to anyone looking for a stress-free modelling experience! Thanks for looking. Richard C.
  6. Well fellow Britmodellers, as the Tiger build is about concluded, I felt I needed something simple and uncomplicated as my next project. I purchased this as it was cheap and seems to have stood the test of time, so let's get going and torture some plastic ..... Starting with the usual sprue, and in this case box shot .... And after less than an hour we have these .... As an older kit, the parts do need some cleanup and fettling to get a decent fit, but so far, so good! As always, comments welcome! Keith ☺️
  7. Seeing as someone said the other week that we don't get enough F1 builds here, I thought I'd pull one out of the stash for my next project. Tyrrell Yamaha 023 from the 1995 season. Can't remember seeing one of these built before, so I guess it'll be a learning curve as I go along. No progress as yet as I've had a clean and tidy of the mancave after my last build. So I thought I'd add my placemarker 😀
  8. Last year I started a Tamiya Yamaha 023 F1 car and it stalled due to a decal issue, new decals were ordered and the kit was put on the shelf of doom while I waited. There it sat forgotten while I ploughed on with other stuff. This seems like an ideal time to finish it off and clear some space on the shelf. Link to original build here if anyone wants a look, then a quick pic of where I got to. I need to get my head around where I am and what's next to do 12 months down the line, then I'll make a start Progress as it stands along with the new Indycals decals Ian
  9. The first of several 'in progress' projects I'll post and the most recent one I started. It's the Tamiya Mazda Eunos Roadster, or MK1 MX5, or Miata... Anyway, I bought this because it was cheap and I thought I might lower it and chuck some little fat wheels on. But then I thought that's what happens to most MK1 MX5s, so maybe I'll make a dune buggy because the tyres should be fairly easy to model. So I need to model a lift kit and some wheels, maybe a roll cage and new exhaust. First thing I did was wheels and tyres - because it's fun! I decided to recreate the original 14in wheel centres but as though they'd been machined from the original wheel and converted to split rims. Then I went with a 17in front rim and 15in rear to keep the overall diameters similar. The wheel centres are the same front and rear (because they're modelled on the originals) and I made separate valves that push in from the outside. After printing a set of these and mucking about with them for a while, and making a start on the front suspension, I decided I'd quite like to do a set of off-road wheels, too. Then I could make a trophy truck or rock crawler type vehicle as an alternative. Because the off-road wheels would be a square set-up (same diameter, width, offset front and rear, not actually square!), I thought my rear offset on the sand wheels was a bit too aggressive for the suspension to work with both sets of wheels and keep a similar front and rear track. I re-modelled the rear rims and re-printed them. As you can see in the photo below, it's not a massive difference (1.4mm actually). The left is the original and the right is the new version. Below is the final set of sand wheels and tyres with an original wheel and tyre for comparison. In order to create the off-road wheel set I needed to up my tyre modelling game and picked the Yokohama Geolandar X-AT as my inspiration. This wasn't too bad to model as it turned out and I'm really happy with the result. For the wheel, I went with a Fuel Zephyr as my starting point but made them a 4x100 bolt pattern to match the original MX5. I went for a 17in wheel and I can't remember what size tyre I picked but it comes out at about a 32in. The wheel comprises a Tamiya style locator that is also the wheel nuts, the wheel, a centre cap, a valve and a lock ring. I did this mainly for ease of painting Although, the separate centre locator does mean I can create an Aoshima/Fujimi style one in the future. I'll probably model some 5 and 6 bolt versions of the wheel, too. Once I'd printed the wheels and tyres, I thought it'd be much better if I gave the tyres a bit of 'sag' so they look like they've been aired down for off-road use. I use Fusion 360 for my modelling but it isn't really made for deforming stuff. As it happens, I also have a copy of Blender installed, so I used the mesh deformer in that to squash the bottom of the tyre and I'm really happy with the results. Below is a photo of the full set of wheels and also a comparison between round and sagged tyres. Whilst I'd been messing with wheels and tyres, I'd also been working on the front suspension mods. These components basically replace the kit originals directly with the removal of the anti-roll bar and addition of a sump guard/skid plate. I didn't want to have to cut or modify any of the original kit parts, so the front and rear track are vastly wider that original for tyre clearance. In fact, the wheels are entirely outside of the original bodywork! Although this doesn't articulate, I did check that it was "useable" in terms of camber and steering. It has a crazy amount of lift and I wanted to give as much ground clearance as possible, so the track rod angles are ridiculous. Through the full "movement" of the suspension, though, the hub would remain the same distance from the steering rack, so it shouldn't be a nightmare to drive. The track would actually alter dramatically, though, and I guess that's not ideal. Here are some shots of the front suspension so far, with comparisons to the original kit parts. Everything is beefed up for off-road use. I'm now working on modelling the rear suspension and am pretty much there. I still need to work out the propshaft, differential and half shafts, as I'm keeping to independent suspension. I think I'm going to attempt to model a Mazda RX7 diff and use it upside down for extra ground clearance. Here's a render of where I'm upto so far Wow! I think it's taken me almost as long to create this post as it has to model everything! I was thinking I could actually create a full exo cage for this and make a military version so I'd fit in more Anyway, if you've managed to make it this far down, I hope you've enjoyed it! Cheers Martin
  10. Hello chaps, Waiting my dental scanner to work again soon and help me so to get convincing wipers that will add the final touch to my Ford Mustang Indy 500 Convertible at 1/16 scale... ... I begin here a new thread dedicated to my next build, the Porsche 934 Vaillant Tamiya at 1/12, a big scale! For this build, I decided to buy the expensive Scale Lab detail set, hoping this set will allow me to get a very nice result, even if I am sure you can get a fine one just with the Tamiya kit. Will this set worth it? I will give you my opinion independently. This set was bought on Spotmodel, it is about 300€, much more expensive than the Tamiya kit itself so (about 140€). Below are some pics of both boxes and their contents: The first impression with the Tamiya kit is very good despite its quite old age, 1976, it has been reissued more recently with a PE detail set and a Cartograf decal sheet (both very nice!). The Scale Lab detail set is impressive with 9 PE plates, resin parts and a sheet of masks for the windows frame painting job. It will require a careful study before use because the instructions sheet above seems to me somewhat succinct... Well, I hope I'm wrong on that point, we shall see. A word about the choice of the Porsche 934 Vaillant: as usual, the choice for a model is for me first aesthetic. From this point of view, I could have chosen the Jägermeister version, orange (I love this color) but I ever have the huge 1/8 Pocher Lamborghini Aventador in nearly the same color. This Light Cobalt Green (lighter than what the Tamiya box-art suggests imho) is though also quite to my taste, in addition to be more original. It is also very possible that the name "Vaillant", even if it is here just a sponsor (Vaillant was and is still today a heating systems manufacturer), resonated in me and more or less consciously recalled the adventures of Michel Vaillant, famous racing driver in the comic books albums of Jean Graton (the French and Belgian members of this forum will understand me very well). Looking in the Net, I found a pic of this Vaillant version showed at Autoworld Brussels. Pity, when visiting this nice car museum last year, the car was missing... The documentation will be consequently quite poor, a priori... For the paint, I decided to use mainly Gravity products, but most likely Tamiya and Vallejo ones too. Well, let's go to the bench now, hoping this build will arouse interest from the Brit community. Cheers, O
  11. Col.

    Honda's U.J.M.

    When Honda introduced their new CB750 motorcycle model to the world in 1969 it was seen as a revelation by many. A powerful and relatively easy to maintain 736cc air-cooled in-line four cylinder engine was at the heart of the bike but the inclusion of many other features, such as an electric starter, ensured their rapidly growing popularity; so rapid, according to some sources, that it caught Honda by surprise. So good was the bike that it reputedly birthed the term 'superbike' and its popularity was responsible for the U.J.M. epitaph - Ubiquitous Japanese Motorcycle - as everyone seemed to have one. At over 110,000 units produced it's easy to understand why. The popularity of the CB750 has been recognised by Tamiya in both 1/12th and 1/6th scale kits with the former appearing in the catalogue during 1982 and remaining available ever since. There just happens to be one in my stash... There's plenty reviews covering the contents of this box on-line so I'll not repeat the process but let's just say it's well filled We're not going fully out of the box with this one. I quite like the café racer style and the CB750 is a popular bike amongst those who do custom conversions so let's head down that road a little.
  12. I was trying to rescribe a panel after reshaping an area with Mr White Putty R after which I put on some Tamiya Putty basic type and when I try to rescribe the underlying panel and it started to crumble and make a very uneven panel line. Any help would be greatly appreciated
  13. Back from Fujimi to some of the older Tamiyas from my stack. This one went together well, oob, with added tobacco decals and a driver from the Tamiya "Driver & Engineer" set (who fit barely into the cockpit ). Oh yeah, and I opted to use the kit provided decals for the day glow red of the car, as I wasn't able to match the color (which is also used on the Marlboro logos, car no. etc.. I was relatively happy with the fit of those decals. I once prided myself on my driver figures (rightfully or not), but lately they are an issue. It is probably because the decals have become reeeaaally old by now (30+ years). With the recent build of B195, Johnny Herberts decals just fell apart. For the Berger helmet, I fortunately had like 3 1/2 sets to play with. First one, the helmet color bleeded through, second one didn't really fit the helmet and came apart from the softener, third set: bleed through again, despite the fact that I had put a clear coat over the helmet before applying the decals. As you can see, the helmet looks a bit rough now, but as the driver was already glued into the car, I had not really a choice - unless I wanted to show a decapitated Gerhard ... Btw, decal softener: for a lot of years I used Walthers Solvaset and was very happy with it. As I am cut off from my sources, I switched to Tamiya. It seems that the regular stuff doesn't do anything to the decal and the "strong" one not much more - even to Tamiya decals.. Alright, enough venting, here it goes: as always, thanks for looking and any comments welcome. Here are my other race related builds: https://photos.app.goo.gl/tAzkGmj4w2fTJir87 Cheers
  14. I haven't done a WiP for this because most of it was done before I joined BM. Also, the interior was kind of rushed because the model was supposed to be a mule for photographing wheel designs. Now I've finished it (barring the reg plates), the tuck is so tight at the rear I can't swap the wheels out! This is built straight out of the box with the exception of the front hubs, brakes, wheels and tail pipe. Oh, and badges. I forgot to put the little red and white GT stickers on the side before I clear coated, so I just painted them on instead. I also painted the rear high level brake light in with Molotow chrome and Tamiya X-27 clear red. Although, I can't remember if I bought this X-27 in 2014, early 2000s or the early '90s, and it seems to have started migrating towards orange. 🤔 For the big brake/lowering/camber solution, I modelled new front hubs with 2mm raised rotor mounts and -1.5º of camber. At the rear, I didn't want to have to recreate most of the rear subframe assembly, so I modelled rotors with a 2mm offset -1.5º hub mounting point. This meant the half shafts and everything from the original will all still line up. with the hubs. I kept the calipers separate for ease of painting and modelled smooth and drilled rotors. Here are some renders of said bits... As I happen to have two of this kit, here are some comparison photos... For wheels, I used my SM1-19 set. The set is based on the rears I've used here, which I think is an HRE design. I then evolved this into a full spoke version and two turbo fan versions. The wheels are a 19in instead of the original 18in and are a couple of inches wider (although when I measured the kit wheels and allowed for rim width (about an inch) they're 10 inches wide as opposed to the 8 I think they're supposed to be!). With the GT-R and Nissan badges, I used ZoomOn 'Metal Sticker' versions. They aren't really as good as photo etched in this application, because there's no detail in the 'R' to paint in the red. I ended up just painting the whole 'R' with X-27 and I think it's okay. Also, the nissan badge is too modern for this car, I think. I painted this in Pro Scale Paints Millennium Jade and I have to say I really struggled with it. And, on reflection, I struggled with it the last time I used it, too. It seems to react with itself when applied sometimes and no matter how many times I sanded back and re-applied (4 times on the bonnet, I think) it just reacted again. So I called it good enough. And, actually, even with that, I'd say this is the most successful model I've built! I'm no expert and I lack the patience (although I'm trying!) to really get a good finish, so it's far from perfect. But, here we go! (Car posed on foam to absorb the camber ) Thanks for looking, Martin
  15. Evening guys and gals, Here's a model I completed today - Tamiya's classic of the mighty Lancaster in 1/48th scale. My model represents a B MkIII of 300 (Polish) Squadron, based at RAF Faldingworth in early/mid-1944. I picked this up for a steal on a well known auction site a while back, shortly after HK Models released their new kit and thus a lot of these were being sold off cheaply. Whilst the Tamiya kit is of 1975 vintage, it still builds up well and holds its own against the newer HK rendition well: I actually like the raised surface detail (which although a little overdone in places is a more life-like rendition of the real aircraft) and whilst it has the odd tricky element during construction - namely the fit of the engines - it doesn't take any major effort to put it together: Painting all the bombs took nearly as long as building the entire model - that is one impressive amount of ordnance! I painted it with my trusty Badger 200 using Xtracolor enamels, and added a Flory 'grime' wash and did all the exhaust staining with Mig-Ammo pastels which are really easy to work with: Decals came from Techmod and were superb, bedding down over the raised details without issue: All in all a very straightforward and enjoyable build, and whilst I need to get hold of the newer HK kit one day, I'd happily build another of these if the opportunity arose - you can't beat giving an older classic some love! Tom
  16. Seeing as I am co-hosting the GB I suppose its about time I got my build thread started! In preparation for the GB I picked up the newish Tamiya M3A1 at last years IPMS UK Nationals, and while it certainly isn't as detailed as the new Miniart kits it has the traditional Tamiya mix of a decent amount of detail without being over complicated which is a big help to me as I have a lot going on at the minute so it should give me a chance of finishing it. So lets start with the ubiquitous box top and contents shots. the box top; And the contents still sealed in their plastic bags; And now comes the difficult bit, deciding what scheme to finish it in! I have two options going around in my mostly empty head and they are one very similar to the box top art as in a US Army machine from North Africa but possibly using markings from a Star decal sheet for an example that had mud painted onto the original OD camouflage to give it a bit of variety. My other option is for a post war machine used by Chile to help show that the Stuart didn't disappear from inventories after WWII, they stayed in service into the 1970's at least for training and also wore a variety of desert related schemes according to profiles on a PDF I have about Chilean armour, though I would like to see a picture or two to back this up. So there you go, thats my proposed build. Thanks for looking in and as usual all comments and criticisms are gratefully received. Craig.
  17. Being a serial starter (only occasional finisher) I decided to start something that shouldn't be too complex, the well known Tamiya He-162. I will try to build it as the interesting looking Black 27, interesting looking since it was left partly unpainted and rough which I think sums up the last desperate weeks of the Third Reich, and with a brown left wing and green right wing since they just fitted whatever was available at the time. As it looks otherwise complete it wouldn't surprise me if it had been flown into combat in that state if the war had gone on for a few more weeks. Could also be a fun challenge to replicate the bare metal and spackling look, and the included kit decals should provide the black "27" of Heinkel He 162 A-1 Werknummer 300027 found at Junkers-Jager Bernburg if I cut out the numbers from the kit supplied serial numbers. As you can see, Black 27 didn't have a serial number on the tail plane, nor a swastika. As far as I know the only difference between an A1 and the A2 the kit depicts, is the use of the short barrelled 30mm MK-108 guns in the A1 instead of the MG-151 in the A2. So I'd only need to leave out the protruding barrels from the kit and add the bigger 30mm ejector shell openings and paint the gun ports black, but if any He-162 experts on here knows more please let me know. If my plan goes pear shaped I will just build it as the "Nervenklau" plane from the kit, as I have several noisy motorcycles myself and I think the story behind that plane's name is quite amusing. It will be built out of the box (with the exception of a Quickboost REVI 16b gun sight), but with some attempts to improve detail. The kit detail is fine out of the box but it can be improved without too much work. The build starts in the cockpit (cue surprised gasps), and here Tamiya has left out the grab rails on the ejector seat so they were added using stretched sprue, and four roller wheels were punched out and glue to the seat. Added a few crinkles in the leather as well to add some life into it. I think, or rather hope, the seat supplied in the kit is OK for an A1 as there are at least two different variants of the 162 seat. Some riveting was added to the bulkhead, and the holes were opened up since there is some cabling and other stuff supposed to pass through them. The right hand cockpit side wall got a few punched out disks added to beef up the oxygen regulator. The kit's oxygen apparatus doesn't look much like the real thing, but I've seen so many different variations of the He-162 cockpit that I really don't know how it originally looked, or what has been changed or added by the allies after they took them as war prizes. Drilled out the hole for the flare gun port, and added some rivets to that as well. Still lots to do, so better just crack on!
  18. Hi all, My Centurion Avre is not yet finished, but I like having a few projects on the bench. Even though this one will be a huge project. 😉 A few weeks ago I attended Militracks 2024 in Overloon, Netherlands. Two FAMO half tracks participated. That gave me the idea to build a scaled version of it. A version with a heavy crane (I think it's a Bilstein crane): And the "regular" one: So I went to my local hobby shop and got this kit: As the kit is a bit older, I got some aftermarket stuff too: (I might get some resin tires for the trailer as well) The trailer could carry loads up to 22 tons. So my plan is to build something like this. Half track, trailer and a damaged Panzer IV: I yet need to get the tank, but first I need to focus on FAMO and trailer anyway. 😁 Daniel
  19. My first entry to the GB will be the Tamiya Ilyushin IL-2 Shturmovic which was apparently nicknamed the Flying Tank by the Soviet crews. I started this one last Christmas inbetween GB's but never got it finished. Not much left to do really. Only a few bits left in the box and most has already been painted. I think the first job will be to give it a good dust 🙄 Probably won't get on to this for a couple of weeks as i have two builds in progress in the BoB GB. George
  20. Hi everyone, I'm just finishing up a Mustang III in the D-Day GB, and having built a couple of ICM things lately I'm craving for a well-fitting simple kit. In my stash is a Tamiya 1:48 Messerschmitt Bf 109 E3 (61050) which seems to fit the theme in this GB quite well. So please allow me to join with this: In my usual need to unnecessarily complicate things, I'm using Eduard's PE set. Here's a sprue shot and the extras: It's a delightfully simple kit with only TWO sprues of parts. I might yet enjoy myself here I'm currently planning to build Adolf Galland's plane from August 1940 in France, but there are a few other schemes also. /Jari
  21. Greetings tank fans! This build was started in the Tiger STGB earlier in the year, but never made it in the time allowed. I used an Eduard big photoetch set .... zimmeritt, fenders, mudguards and a lot of other details, which proved quite a challenge and was time consuming. Star decals were used and the tank itself was used by 3 kompanie, SS Pz. Abt 101 based in Normany in 1944 I wanted a finish that represents a Tiger that has been in action and looks well used, which I think I've managed. As usual, I'm my own worst critic! Painted with Ammo acrylics, weathered with oils, acrylics and Ammo mud. The build thread for this can be found here Anyway, here's the final result .... Thank you for taking the time to look, comments are welcome! Keith ☺️
  22. Mes amis, as seems to be the general custom with Group Builds, I've allowed this one out of it's tub in the loft with no guarantee of getting finished. I present to you Tamiyas Mid Production with an Eduard 'Big Ed' photoetch set .... I'll be building this as (another) tank 131 of Panzer Abteilung 101 deployed in Normandy 1944 .... how timely! So, without further delay, let the shenanigans begin! 😬 Keith 😁
  23. Many of you will have seen this build as I've crawled through the build, about 18 months from first beginning disassembly to completion. And for those who haven't seen the build thread, yes that use of the word disassembly is correct. This is a model I first built when I was 12 which was before I discovered the joys of paint. Fortunately also before I discovered solvent cement so I could take it to pieces. If you haven't seen it and want to, the WIP thread is here: Before I move onto the finished pictures, it may be worth me showing some pics of the rather dirty and badly built state of this before I started. There were also some bits missing, plus some damaged during disassembly so I have had to demonstrate my lack of scratchbuilding skills. I am also aware that the real clamshell isn't sitting quite right, unfortunately that's down to the front half being about half a millimetre too far forward on the chassis so would need major surgery to fix. The build isn't perfect, but it's probably the best I can manage. Overall I'm happy with it as I knew this would be a challenge and I doubted whether I would be able to complete it. And with that written, time for a trip over and around the car. A couple of close-ups of the engine bay. This was probably the major part of the build, although it will be hidden away when the model is in the display cabinet. No pictures from inside the cockpit though as I just couldn't get a decent shot in there. And with the normal shots done, a bit of playing about. I didn't really have much time, or materials to play around this time, so fairly functional I'm afraid: As always, thanks for looking, and I hope at least some of you found it interesting.
  24. Douglas F4D-1 Skyray Naval Air Test Centre NAS Patuxent River 1960 So here's a thing, IMO, the Skyray is one of the most beautiful looking aircraft ever to fly, simple as that. Ok, so I have two of the still excellent Tamiya 1:48 kits in my stash and I really want to make them look as different as possible to each other, so how to do that ?? - well I could simply fold the wings and open the cockpit on one of them, also give it a really unflattering paint scheme and just for the laughs, add a horrid asymmetric loadout, yeah that should do it ! - And this is what I ended-up with. Almost feel like I should apologise for turning something so pretty into 'Franken-Ford'. Seriously, the build was pretty much trouble free, lots of test fitting of the folded wings and the Hasegawa Tow-Dart as I went just to be sure, the dart still drags on the deck, but apparently that wasn't unusual !. Tamiya lacquer & acrylics throughout topped with the superb Furball Decals 'Fast Fords' sheet (48 002) and a few scratchbuilt details in the cockpit... not too much else to say. Please feel free to make any comments & criticisms or ask any questions. Cheers from NZ (again). Ian.
  25. Will be building this as a Royal Norwegian AF plane. Not decided yet will it be in stealth or beast mode.
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