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Hello friends, starting new project with this Mauschen from Takom

Hello friends, the type-69 II Takom is done some photos

Hello, next step for the M114, a little diorama with Bravo 6 figs

Having recently finished building RFM’s Pz.IV Ausf J and currently still having lots of fun with their Pz.IV Ausf J interior kit, I really fancied tackling another of their 1/35 armour kits. This year I’ve not started another softskin, which is what I mainly build, as these kits have just been such a pleasurable experience. The engineering is so good, and the plastic such a similar colour match, that I keep thinking I’m building a Tamya kit😉 As the end of last year was all about Pz.IV. J’s for me, this year I’m maxing out on StuG’s. Over the last few months, I’ve almost finished Dragon’s lovely StuG III Ausf F8 kit which will be based on an Italian campaign vehicle. I have a few decent period images which capture some nice features. I also ‘blitzed’ through Takom’s StuG III Ausf G (Early). This was built straight out of the box with no intention of losing any sleep over it's many inaccuracies. So, as I’m slowly getting to know my way around a Pz.III chassis and some of the later StuG variants, I figured why not check out one of RFM’s StuG's. This is their Ausf G late kit and it’s a belter. I’ve read there are a few issues with some small features (what kit doesn’t) but they are minimal and nothing that cannot be easily remedied. According to those in the know on ML, it is the perfect base kit that requires very little extra work to portray a decent Alkett built last production Ausf G. This kit is the non interior 2022 released kit 5086 and you can build a StuG III or a StuH42. RFM 5086 info It includes both Alkett and MIAG track guards as it incorporates sprues from their Pz.III as well as from previous StuG kits. The tracks are RFM’s own individual links which incorporates a jig to complete small runs, speeding up construction. There is no turned metal barrel, but the one-piece slide moulded one is easy to clean up. There are two frets of photoetch. The largest covers the Schurzen plates. The wheels incorporate poly caps which I personally like and fit nice and snug just like on many a Tamiya kit. The lower hull is of flatpack design and fits together perfectly. The torsion bars can be made workable or you can simply glue the ends onto the lower hull. There is even an option to build adjustable shock absorbers (dampers). Your choice. When it comes to the bow armour the StuG went through quite a few production design changes in this area. Unlike another certain Chinese manufacturer I could mention, the correct parts are called out, even though there are several other variant parts available on the sprues. The running gear lines up really nicely as does all the features on the rear plate. The interlocking bow plate portion which would be partly visible just forward of each sprocket plate on each lower hull side plate stranglely isn't moulded on. I chiselled out the feature and added the welding marks. The transmission plate is just dry fitted in the image below. One of the oddities in the kit is RFM’s choice of tracks. The open guide horn type was seen on StuG’s III's, just not many have been photographed on these late production vehicles. A period image that captured my attention had the more common type seen on these variants and as I had a 3D set of T-Rex links, I figured these were the ones to go for. That decision wasn’t one of my best! Unlike two previous sets which I had a blast with, these were a right PITA. They definitely were not from the same batch as my previous sets as the material was far more brittle. I even had some links break which hasn't happened before! On top of that the pins did not appear to exhibit any taper and a large percentage were already damaged in their small bags! TBH I though of contacting the seller but figured I should as least see if I can build up two complete runs first. I did, but only just and the pins were falling out as quick as I popped them back in🤬 In the end after a few choice words and a few strong shandies, I brush painted over the pin ends on the links with Vallejo grey primer. This seemed to solve the issue but I then found the links were a tight fit over the sprocket and I don't trust them to take much more handling! After all this track building agro I have decided to give the kit tracks a go. Also, as RFM only offer the earlier style round tow cable clamps, I ordered the correct square aftermarket Alkett factory produced ones from Panzerwerk Design Alkett late tow cable brackets. Whilst postage is way in excess of their cost, I also plumped for some of their Type 6B tracks Pz.III & IV type 6B links at the same time. Their tracks look good and have favourable reviews, so I will build them up when they come and choose whether they trump the kit tracks later in the build. As it would give the option to display the vehicle on uneven ground I opted to utilise the kit's adjustable torsion bar set up which will work with the optional moveable damper units. Due to the kit's engineering in this area the adjusable torsion bars naturaly allow the wheels to lift over obstacles, and the moveable damper units equally compress, but they do not naturally rebound. This effect is visible in the first image below. The first and last front bogie wheels are slightly effected by the track tension and are pulled a little higher than they would normally sit on level ground. If positioned on uneven ground they can always be fixed, so it’s nice to have this option. The T-Rex tracks do look the business but this set was far from perfect. The track tension on the other side is a touch loser on the image below so all the bogie wheels sit nice and level. One construction fix which was pointed out to me by a fellow modeller is to do with two strengthening ribs (parts D13 & D14) which you are instructed to add to the undersides of the gun box in step 13. What they do in essence is create a channel which allows the gun box to align squarely onto both of the thin lower hull side plates. The problem is, that they only need the fixing to be off a fraction and the channel will become too narrow and will interfere with what should be a simple slot down on to the lower hull sides. To remedy this potential fit issue, you just need attach the parts directly to the lower hull instead. There are slots in the lower hull side plates too, so it’s a really simple fix. The lower hull interior includes a fighting compartment floor to which the gun cradle fixing mount is attached. Only the inner two of the four spars that fit between the lower hull back plate to the extension over the exhausts featured on these late production vehicles. It is not an issue to fit them as instructed as they are not visible (unless you are an IPMS/USA judge) 🫣 and the extension rear plate you fit has the correct bolt head detail for just the two inner ones that remained. In step 15 you get to choose your gun type and unlike any previous manufacturer's releases, each gets its own breech and cradle parts and construction steps. It is worth mentioning that in step 19 it is not at all clear in which order you attach your breech sub-assembly, gun box, lower hull and mantlet all together! I’m sure there are a few ways that folks have managed to do this successfully, but it is not at all obvious and quite a conundrum to figure out. Breech assembly with added weld detail on the recuperator and an aftermarket barrel. I incorporated the kit's spring so I can leave it adjustable to ensure I end up with the correct length of visible barrel outside of the mantlet. The full breech sub-assembly with the mantlet and muzzle brake dry fitted. I’m currently building up the engine deck which comes as a separate moulding but I’m not going to attach all the parts permanently until I pick some aftermarket stowage. Can anybody confirm whether aftermarket resin StuG engine deck stowage parts fix over the armoured hatches or directly to an unpopulated deck? Engine deck, armoured engine hatches and gun box roof still dry fitted. Progress so far The loaders front armour plate provided in the kit is of the earlier production design which incorporated two (50 & 30mm) plates. Late Ausf G had a single 80mm plate. It would be quite easy to hide the join if it were not for the fact that the kit’s outer 30mm plate part does not feature the extra portion that curves down to match the contours of the inner plate. I shaped a similar thickness piece of grey styrene to mimic the outer plate then scribed torch marks over both to hide the join. I understand the correct single 80mm plate can be found spare on the sprues of many a Dragon StuG kit.

After the Sherman Calliope vignette i wanted to build something else. I mainly do ww2 tanks and diorama's but while i was digging around on the internet for a new project i came across this beauty: The Krupp M-gerät 420mm also known as Big Bertha. A siege gun designed by Krupp to destroy fortifications. These guns were mainly used by the germans on the western front during the first years of ww1. The gun is massive! Original size was about 4,5 meters high and more then 10 meters in length. To give you a bit of a perspective: here is a tiger 1 standing next to the first part of this build. In typical Takom fasion the quality of this kit so far is very good. The only thing that requirers attention are some seamlines on the parts that have to be removed. Other then that no issues so far. The kit is big and so are all the parts. It almost feels like building in 1:16 scale. This build will become the main part of a WW1 diorama. Right now i'm searching for some good figures to go with the model and i want to add some extra ammo so tips on finding 420 mm shells in 1:35 scale are welcome. Feel free to tag along. Cheers guys!!! ( yes the title is a Monty Python quote )

Well I did have plans to re-start my HMS York Cruiser build this year but that will still be on hold for a while until I get some real life issues sorted Elderly Parents and house clearance are the main priority's for now and the loss of my best mate Max the family dog have done my MOJO in over the last week or so. So to help me de-stress I thought I would go with this whom a very good friend gave me just before Christmas. It is the TAKOM 1/35 scale secondary Bismarck turret not to many parts in the box so nice and simple bit like me really so here goes. Stay Safe beefy

Here he is. One of the last beasts of WW2, the Takom Jagdtiger with porsche suspension. It was a fun build. I learned some new tricks, made some mistakes, corrected them and overall i enjoyed myself. Thanks to all who tagged along with the build. Thanks @FrancisGLfor the inspiration. Anyway, here are the photo's. Any critique is more than welcome.

Next model on the bench. The Jagdtiger from Takom with the porsche suspension. It's a big beast. It has workable tracks and a lot of detail. First look at the sprues gives me the impression of a well manufactured kit. Little flash and even some slidemolding so the details look crisp. I bought some PE front and back fenders from Aber. I also ordered the Tamiya wehrmacht tankcrew. So i will build this one with figures. Not shure what i want to do with the camo scheme. There are 3 options sugested in the manual but i have to say i really like what @FrancisGLis doing with his Jagdtiger. That dark yellow with color modulation really looks the part. Also, doing some research i found out that there were only 10 or 11 Jagdtigers with the porsche suspension. They were among the first that were build. The last one came of the assembly line in September 1944. So i must decide if i will do zimmerit on this model. It seems logical and historicly correct. However, those are tomorow problems. Let's start this build. I'll keep you guys posted. Time for a beer. Cheers! 👍👍👍

G'day people, It has been a while since I have been able to get to the bench. I bought this kit a while ago when it was on sale as a mojo restorer. I took it along with me during a recent business trip. I was able to build it in sub-assemblies and transported it in a resealable plastic food tub to afford a level of protection during transit stages. I am not sure if it belongs here but as it is a naval based CIWIS system this seems the logical place. This build was mostly OOB, I only added a few small embellishments. The kit allows you to position the kit in both azimuth and elevation and I have posed mine as if it were engaging using one of the 9M311-1 (NATO: SA-19 "Grison") missiles, one of which is provided, The Kashatan M is a formidable piece of kit. It is armed with 2 x six barrelled Gsh-6-30 30mm cannons and up to 8 x 9M311-1 SAMs, this is not the system you would want to run into in a dark alley! The destructions tell me that it has the ability to engage up to five targets in a minute with a pK of 96-99% Anyhoo, onto the pics , cheers, Pappy

Hello friends, T29E3 completed, some photos ...

After a nasty bout of Covid I have finally managed to find the energy to get this one finished and photographed. This is the excellent Takom kit with just a few additional details. It was painted with the Ammo Mig Berlin brigade paint set and weathered with pigments and oils. A WIP can be found here. I would also like to thank John @Bullbasket for the very helpful photos and Dan @Dads203, Ivan @ivan-o and @Scimitar F1 for sharing their knowledge. Not forgetting the moody black background shots. Not wishing to bore you all with an overload of photos but a couple more with a grey back ground. Hopefully that isn't too many photos but the different backgrounds do seem to bring out different details. All I have to do now is decide what to start next. Wayne

This was intended to be a diorama but I only got as far as the tank and figures before I ran out of time, skills and interest. However, I think it's still worth a look. There's a ton more pictures here: There are also twelve pages describing the ups and downs of a four month build. The Tank is Takom, the figures are MasterBox and the scale is 1/35.

Chieftain Mk.10 Berlin Brigade. Whilst waiting for a few new releases to materialise I thought I really should finish off some of the uncompleted builds that I have laying around. Inspired by @Big_Bad_Bill and his Mk.11 I decided to get on with my Berlin Brigade Mk.10. Most of the construction work has been completed but as there has been a few builds of Takom's Chieftains already on the forum I don't think it matters that this topic will be more about the painting. A brief explanation of the Berlin Brigade camouflage scheme with a little help from the Tankograd book. Up until 1982, British armoured vehicles in West Berlin were camouflaged in the standard pattern of green or green/black. With the deployment of D Squadron, 4th/7th Royal Dragoon Guards, the commanding officer started to challenge this way of camouflage as the vehicles always looked out of place in urban areas. After trials on cardboard it was decided that a rectangular pattern of white, grey and brown would best match the buildings, windows, doors and fences. Variations of the size and pattern of the scheme were to be kept to within two inches so that each vehicle would look identical making it harder for the enemy to determine the amount of vehicles or units. A few of the external details have been left off to make painting a little easier. Looking at the close up images in the Tankograd book I'm finding it difficult to determine whether there would have been an anti-slip coating applied. If it has it appears to be quite a light covering. There is a Berlin Brigade Mk.10 on display at a small museum in Maldon, which is not far from me and I was thinking of driving over to take a look but with the current climate that is probably not wise. So any help would be appreciated. Wayne

Dear comrades... This is my first AFV model after a lot of aircrafts 😇, I really enjoyed with the heavy weathering process. In that case, this is the awesome Takom 1/35 model kit, with MasterClub metal tracks. This is my second attempt to build a Merkava, the first one was in 2000 with a poor Trumpeter kit when I was a teenager that was abandoned by me after several frustrations 🙃. Here is a full Flickr album: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmRtfzCx

I got a Stug for Christmas, i immediately start looking for a reference picture. I found this one from the Ardennes offensive. I’ve got a base on order that should set the scene nicely and just need to pick the figures up.

Hello everybody... Im posting an M3a1 Lee. A type that my Grandfather trained on. The Tank i will build is from the Armored Fighting School at Ft.Knox Kentucky in 1942. I have a familial connection to these tanks. My Grandfather, this photo is from his wedding day.  He trained in them in 1941-42. He was originally part of the 4th Armored Division Headquarters company, under Creighton Abrams. I did not build his specific tank, at least im not sure i did. Currently i have no records of serial #’s to go by. However the tank i am building was used at the school he was stationed at, during the same time period. Theres room for hope that he was in this vehicle at some point. He ultimately went on to serve in the Pacific with the 706th Tank Battalion in 44-45. The model i used is Takoms Excellent cast hulled M3a1 Lee. The WIP from the Trainers group build. Ironically i realized after the fact. That i started the build just two days, after what would have been his 100th birthday. Questions, comments, jokes, or good stories ? Dennis

Hello everybody... Im going to jump in here with an M3 Lee. The Tank i will build is from the Armored Fighting School at Ft.Knox Kentucky in 1942. I have a familial connection to these tanks. My Grandfather, trained in them in 1941-42. He was originally part of the 4th Armored Division Headquarters company, under Creighton Abrams. Im not building his specific tank, at least im not sure i am. Currently i have no records of serial #’s to go by. However the tank i am building was used at the school he was stationed at, during the same time period. Theres room for hope that he was in this vehicle at some point. He ultimately went on to serve in the Pacific with the 706th Tank Battalion in 44-45. The model i am going to use is Takoms Excellent cast hulled M3a1 Lee. I will be starting this in a few days once i finish up my other two Group builds. Questions, comments, or jokes if you please. Dennis PS : I will add the sprue shots in my 1st post. This is a brand new kit and never opened until now.