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  1. I managed to finish a for me unusual object. Not that a Viggen is unusual to me but finish something in 48 scale is. I was awarded an Tarangus JA 37 Viggen at a model show back in 2015 and I finally finished it. I built it as one of the AJ 37 prototypes used in the Fighter Viggen development. I managed to bring it to a model show but it didn't come it home with me. Some pics from the build
  2. I managed to finish a 1/48 scale Tarangus JA 37 Viggen. I decided to backdate it to a AJ 37 prototype used in the JA 37 development. I had to remove part of the air intakes and replace it with parts from the Esci/Airfix Viggen. Canards was modified. More Airfix parts to the rescue. A mix of AJ and JA Viggen. Later in it's career it was used in test for the Gripen radar so a nose from the Italeri Gripen was added. The finished plane:
  3. Something nice and easy; a Tamiya Mosquito pretty much straight from the box. I only added some decals from Moose Decals. They are pretty nice and you get quite a few options, but only enough national insignia for 1 aircraft. Sweden purchased a mixed batch of nightfighter mossies post war, that severed into the early 1950s. Some were left in British colours, some were repainted. This machine was one of those that was repainted.
  4. Hi all, I'm not normally an AFV builder but try to build at least one a year as a break from cockpits and wing stuff. This is my braille scale Leopard for the STGB here. The short build thread is here but to recap: Kit: Revell 03199 Strv 122A/B Build: OOB Decals: From the kit for Swedish Norrbotten Regiment I19, Exercise 'Cold Response 2006' Paints: Mr Hobby, Tamiya Acrylics with an airbrush Klear, Oil wash and pastels. W&N Matt Varnish Extras: None! The plastic tracks were a bit of a faff. Thanks for looking and happy modelling! Cheers, Dermot Revell_Strv_122A_ (13) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_Strv_122A_ (14) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_Strv_122A_ (15) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_Strv_122A_ (16) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_Strv_122A_ (7) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_Strv_122A_ (6) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_Strv_122A_ (8) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr With a Trumpeter Strv-103 I built a couple of years back.. Revell_Strv_122A_ (11) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_Strv_122A_ (10) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_Strv_122A_ (12) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr
  5. I wasn't going to do this GB but when I was in the hobby store to get some paint, I couldn't resist buying this. Our tanks was rebuilt into APC's when they had served out. Inside the box there was two bags that contained this.
  6. Orso

    Sav m/43

    As I started on the Pbv 301 kit I decided to bring out a sleeping project. The Swedish Sav m/43. I bought the UM kit but was not happy with the shape of the resin super structure. Once before I had tried to build one on the Attack Px38 kit but I never finished it. I brought out the superstructure I built for it (bottom left) hoping that I could use it but it didn't fit perfectly so I decided to restart on one. As you can see I have problems getting it right. The one on the chassis is the lates try and I hope I soon have it right. The basic shapes feels right but the roof is to wide so I have to redraw the parts for it again. I have plans to build a second one and with some luck I can rebuild the top of my initial build as most parts seems to be OK except the top that are to high.
  7. Saab J/A-21R First Swedish Made Jet (SH72480) 1:72 Special Hobby Saab have always been innovative in their aircraft designs, and the J-21 certainly was ahead of its time when it began gestation in the early years of WWII. Although Sweden were neutral, they believed in having a strong defence force to dissuade potential attackers, and this aircraft was part of that policy. It evolved over several design iterations into a pusher prop with twin booms based upon a license-built Daimler Benz engine, and because of the rear-mounted prop it was able to carry its armament in the nose, with the pilot having an unobstructed view of his quarry. The large prop at the rear dictated a tricycle landing gear configuration, and to save the pilot from injury when exiting the 'plane in flight, a simple ejector seat was developed by Bofors to blast him clear of the airframe and the flailing blades of the propeller. After the initial production the A-2 variant was re-armed with a Swedish developed 20mm cannon replacing the French model, and these were later superseded by the A-3, which had a bomb sight for air-to-ground operations, and was able to carry bombs and missiles, as well as use RATO bottles to improve take-off capabilities under heavy load. As the jet age was dawning, the engineers at Saab were asked to re-design the aircraft to switch to jet propulsion, mounting a De Havilland Goblin in a re-designed fuselage, with its tail adapted to clear the hot jet exhaust, resulting in an aircraft that looked very similar to the prop-powered version, but shared only 50% of the parts. Many of the prop-engined aircraft were converted to jet engines on the production line to reach the required number for the contacts, which were cut back from around 150 to a disappointing 64 due to the performance already on display by the prototype Tunnans that were flying before the J-21 reached service. The R has a much shorter service life that consisted mainly of ground-attack roles to which it was better suited, and with the purchase of the de Havilland Vampire and the J29 Tunnan in its production guise, the remaining aircraft served with the Swedish Air Force until 1956. The Kit The original tooling of this model was released in 2011, and has been reissued with a prop and jet pipe a few times in the interim, with it being the turn of the jet-engined R variant in this boxing. The kit arrives in a small top-opening box with a painting of the subject flying high and carrying a huge rack of rockets under its belly. Inside are three sprues of grey styrene, a clear sprue, a small bag of resin parts, a resealable bag of decals, Photo-Etch (PE) and a slip of printed clear acetate sheet, plus the A5 instruction booklet, printed on glossy paper in colour. Detail is good, with raised and engraved surface features, cockpit sidewall detail moulded inside the fuselage, a set of resin wheels and a gigantic rack of rockets as per the cover art, which instantly increases its appeal. Construction begins with the cockpit floor, to which is added a rear bulkhead, seat frame and seat that is detailed with PE foot pegs, diagonal insert in the rear, and PE seatbelts. The rudder pedals are moulded into the floor, and a pair of straps are fitted over them after they are bent to shape, fitting a control column between the seat and pedals. The instrument panel is laminated from a styrene backing, an acetate part with dials printed on, and a PE panel that fixes over the dials. A resin gunsight and clear lens is added to the top of the panel, then it is fitted into the starboard fuselage half along with the cockpit, nose gear bay, and additional detail parts on the sidewalls, notably a throttle box and trim wheel in a housing on the port side, with PE levers and wheel. The fuselage is closed and the twin booms are both made from two halves in advance of mating these assemblies with the wing and elevator panel. The wing is made from a full-span lower and two upper halves with the fuselage placed in the space between them, adding gear bay shells in the boom roots before gluing the booms into position behind the wing, slipping the elevator panel in between the booms while doing so. Clear lenses are inserted into holes in the front of the boom fairings, with resin 12.5mm gun barrels outboard of each one. The main gear legs are built from the strut, adding a yoke to the bottom and PE scissor-link to the lower oleo for each one, while the nose wheel is a single part that has a PE scissor-link, two PE brackets, and two resin parts glued to the sides of the legs of the yoke. The resin wheels flex-fit between the yokes, the main wheels having a chunky tread cast into the contact surface, presumably to cope with snowy landing strips. The nose gear leg is fitted into the bay with a parallel strut and actuator below it, a feature that is replicated in the main gear bays too. All the bay doors have PE hinges and mount on the sides of the bay after cutting the single parts into three for the nose gear, and into two for the main gear bay doors. A pair of PE trim tab actuators are then fitted to the elevator panel top and bottom. You have an interesting choice of armaments to hang from the underside of your model, the most unusual of which is the ovoid gun pack that is built from top and bottom halves, with a pair of Z-supports between it and the fuselage. The real pack has eight 8mm Browning M1919 machine guns with 800 rounds per gun, giving it immense firepower that is concentrated along the line of flight that should result in good accuracy, and is ideal for ground-attack on softskin targets and personnel. The largest rack of rockets is made from a ladder frame with six V-supports, and has ten 15cm RP-3 rockets mounted on the completed frame. Smaller racks can be mounted on the outer wing panels, carrying four rockets each, and these also have 6 supports that are made into a complex framework. While the model is inverted, three actuators are glued onto the ailerons and flaps. There are scrap diagrams for each of the weapons options, but sadly you can’t mount them all at once. With the model standing on its wheels, the canopy is glued in place, starting with the windscreen, then the starboard side and roof, the other side being a separate part. If you wanted to portray the canopy open, you would need to cut the roof and starboard side panes into separate parts, leaving the scalloped rear-view window in place, and hinging the side down along the cockpit sill, and the roof on the port side opened to near vertical. If you plan on carrying out that audacious adjustment to the kit parts, it would be a good idea to support the canopy during cutting by filling the inside with Blutak. There are a pair of wingtip drop-tanks that made from two halves glued around the wingtip, and it seems that if filled with napalm, they could be jettisoned and used as incendiary bombs. The final piece of offensive weaponry is a single 20mm cannon barrel that slips into a hole in the nose. Markings There are three options on the decal sheet, all of which are in olive green over light blue grey, differentiated by their individual markings and the colour of the nose cone. One option is further individualised by having white wing outer panels and drop-tanks. From the box you can build one of the following: J-21RA, S/N 21420, Yellow B, 3 Sqn., Wing F10, based at Ängelholm, 1950 J-21RA, Blue E, 2 Sqn., Wing F10, Ängelholm, 1950 J-21RB supposedly S/N 21440, Yellow B, Wing F17, Kallinge, 1955 The decals appear to be printed using the same digital processes as Eduard are now using, and have good registration, sharpness, and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut loosely around the printed areas. I mention Eduard because from 2021, the carrier film on their decals can be coaxed away from the printed part of the decal after they have been applied, effectively rendering them carrier film free, making the completed decals much thinner and more realistic, and obviating the need to apply successive coats of clear varnish to hide the edges of the carrier film. It’s a great step further in realism from my point of view, and saves a good quantity of precious modelling time into the bargain. Conclusion The J-21R is an unusual-looking early jet, and its Swedishness appeals, as do the huge rack of missiles or gun pack. It’s a well-detailed model and will look great in your display cabinet, making everything else look a little less interesting. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  8. While building the Revell JAS 39C Gripen in the GB, I was inspired to restart on some shelf queens as well. First a conversion of the Italeri JAS 39A kit in to the second protoype. The second prototype had an analogue instrument setup for the tests so I had made a new instrument panel for it. When I left the build years ago I was planning for the parachute installation (at least what I think it is). I have glued a piece of sprue and some plastic pieces to stabilize it while building. This is the the configuration for the spin tests. I wanted to build the equipment as it will alter the look of the plane.
  9. As I managed to finish the Mk.3 I decided to do a Mk.5 as well. As it was a bit hard with the tight fit to mount the tracks I decided to leave the fenders off until I have the tracks in place. I just hope that the fenders will fit. This one will have a fuel cart.
  10. I finished another truck in Swedish WW2 era colours. I think it as 1/72 Roden kit. It has been unfinished so long that I've forgot.
  11. I have started on a Centurion Mk.3 from ACE I will build it as a Swedish Strv 81 with the A model gun. No bigger problems with the kit so far. Some adaption of the holes for alignment pins are needed sometimes. The biggest problem has been the instructions. Parts have the wrong part numbers sometimes and there is even missing in the instructions. I was going to add the front plate but it didn't have the part number on the instruction. I looked at the sprues and found one that looked right. I had a look at the Mk.5 instruction and it showed that I found the right part. But I like this kit. Fine details and parts that fit. I did a search for Mike Starmer's mixes for the S.C.C.15. I found two Humbrol and two Tamiya mixes. As it turned out I only had the paints for one of the Tamiya mixes, so I made a batch that I hope is enough for this model. The camera shows it greener than it is. Started to convert the fenders. I found more part that got the wrong number on the instructions. The Mk.5 kit seems to have these fault fixed. I had problems with the idler wheel assembly. The instructions are unclear on how to mount them. I glued them in the wrong position twice and had to remove them. Finally I dragged out my dead Airfix build to look at it to understand how I should do. Hopefully I got it right now. Third time lucky.
  12. After finishing seven Swedish WW2 tanks I started on some guns. We got the Flak30 that became 20 mm lvakan m/39 in Sweden First To Fight made a kit and they were built straight out of the box. As it contained two guns I decided to leave one on the carriage. Next was the Pak35/36. We got them in two batches. I used some kits from military UM technics for these. I wasn't to happy with all the etch in the kit as it made things complicated to build. The first batch was the standard gun with rubber wheels. It became the 37 mm pvkan m/39-43 in Sweden. The second batch had wooden wheels and was apparently intended for Turkey but ended up as a 37 mm pvkan m/40/43 instead. For this build I combined a modified gun from the Pak41 with the Soviet 45 mm Anti-tank gun as it was a development of the Pak 35/36. I read that the AT-guns were delivered in grey on which the camo colours were added. The only pic that I've seen of the Swedish Flak30 is museum pieces that are green but I opted for the same paint as on my AT-guns.
  13. It all started with me buying a Volvo B11 fire truck from Editions Atlas. It is from a 1/72 fire truck collection they had. It has a die cast cab while the rest is plastic. I had an idea that I could convert it in to a LV94 truck so I let the saw loose. First the cab was shortened. I had problems getting the new rear wall of plastic car to sticking to the metal. Next was to cut the chassis and add some plastic to get it longer. It doesn't look pretty. A cargo bed had to be scratch built. A wooden gasifier from an ACE model Renault was donated by a fellow modeller. It will be a civilian truck that was pressed in to military service so it will be more colourful than the usual military vehicles. I had to move the steering wheel to the left in the cab. While planning for this build I noticed the First To Fight had a Fiat 621 truck and I was curious if they were present in Sweden. While looking into that I just got a feeling that I was looking at an old Scania Vabis. Comparing data of the Fiat and Scania showed them to be very close in size so I thought that I should try to convert it. But when I got the kits and started to look into the Scania I became confused. The nose looked shorter on most of the pictures but reading more I found that there were a four and six cylinder truck so that was why some pictures were off. So I started on the six cylinder Scania Vabis 324 as the nose in the kit looked as it had the right length. I found a picture of a truck with a slightly larger cab so I moved the rear wall back further. The door will be smaller so the rear line was filled. I looked at some of the surviving trucks and most of them had a 3700 or 3800 mm wheel base and I opted on the longer one for this build, the front axle had to be moved so I rebuilt the front of the chassis. This will not be an exact model, more of a "look a like" I find the FTF plastic to be very soft and since there is no top of the window frame one door had been bent. The other kit will be a Scania Vabis 325. It was the four cylinder truck so I had to shorten the nose. I choose a different way to alter the chassis in the front. The front axle had to be moved on this one as well. I will keep the cab without any big changes. As I will build this with the shorter chassis I can use the cargo bed as well.¨ When I looked closer to the trucks I realized that the front fenders needed to be converted. I got the basic shape on the front fenders done. I thought that it would be a minor job turning a Fiat in to a Scania Vabis but it was more work than expected. I needed to see if any more putty was needed so some painting was done, as expected more putty are needed. Some wood gasifier parts has been scratch built. While in a truck spree I decided to to do another one. I wanted an Opel Blitz with a wood gasifier so I opted for a kit from MAC. It will also be a civilian truck pressed in to military service, so I needed another cab for it. An old Esci wreck will be stripped of paint ad adapted to this kit. This one will be green. Some debris got stuck in the paint so I need to repaint the cab. I think I will paint the wheels black instead.
  14. I started a build in the Heller GB back in 2020 I was going for a quick out of the box build. 3½ weeks later it was ready for paint. But as usual when it comes to painting the build died. But this time I managed to get some paint on it before it went to sleep. Now almost two years later I found some motivation to restart. I started with decals when I saw something on the instructions. Position light in the wing tips. It might look nice but that would mean repainting and I forgot what colours I used . As it turned out, the kit took the decision for me. The letter on the fin sat in the right position and I added some decal fluid to it but when I got back it had moved. As I needed to sand and repaint the fin I could just as well do the position lights as well. Finished for paint (again).
  15. I read a magazine and got inspired to bring out a Lansen from the stash. This mean that the most of the other builds are on hold for a while. I will add details from the Maestro set to it. One evenings work gave this.
  16. I am trying to finish some dead projects and restarted on a pair from the Nordic GB back in 2020. I was going for an out of the box build of a J 29E but then I started to scribe the raised panel lines. It was a rather quick job getting something that look like an aircraft. In a box I found an etch set from Maestro that I decided to use. I needed to find the remaining parts for the old build an to my surprise I found a complete kit in the box so I thought that I could just as well build it too. It will be the photo recce S 29C. I had a second set of etch and put it to use. I was thinking of make this as an early machine without the "saw tooth" wings so I needed to convert the wings. I started by cutting the wings before assembling them. After gluing them together and mounted on the fuselage we got this. Then I needed to the get the sight for the camera that goes to the left side of the front . I I built it and drilled the small holes before everything died in November 2020. Now it is October 2022 and I was looking at pictures of the early reccetunnan without the saw-tooth wing to see if I had decals for it. To my surprise I found that it didn't have the camera sight or the small windows. Aaaargh. The holes has been filled and the damage from removing the camera sight has been repaired.
  17. Here is another group build that died. It started in the Nordic GB back in 2020. A S 29C and a J 29E is what is possible to build out of the box but I wanted the J 29F that had an afterburner. The part that needs to be changed in the fuselage I take from the Matchbox kit. I messed up cutting the parts so there are a big gap to fill. I might use the cockpit floor from a Matchbox as well as it is more correct than the Heller tub. I have filled the mess I made with plastic card and putty. The new cockpit has also been started. I found an etch set in the box that might come to use. This has to be my last afterburner conversion. It's my third 29F so it is starting to get boring. On to the wingtip lamps. I drilled a small hole in clear sprue, filled the holes with clear green and clear red to simulate the light bulbs. Then I glued them to the wings to sand them to the right shape. It is starting to look like plane. I adapted some Airfix Draken pylons to fit.
  18. This will be my entry for the 'special schemes' section of this GB. The Hasegawa kit looks pretty nice in the box, it's a special edition that gives you 2 kits and the decals for both the blue and yellow aircraft. I will be doing the blue one and maybe if there is time the yellow.
  19. I managed to finish the fighter version of the SAAB 21 as well. It is the early version of the propeller variant the J 21A-1. I finished it as a plane from the second (blue) division of the F9 wing from Gothenburg. 1/72 scale kit from Heller with decals from Moose Republic.
  20. I finally managed to finish it. Heller kit, rocket rails from Special hobby and a 500 kg mine bomb from Maestro Models. This is the attack version. Red K from the F6 wing in Karlsborg. Decals from Moose Republic
  21. I started on a couple of small planes. I thought that it would be a couple of quick builds that should be finished easily. But a short series kit is not always easy to build. The wings had no attachment points to help attach them to the body. Just a smooth surface on the wing and body. Well, that's not entirely true. The attachment point of the wing to the sprue was in the smooth surface that would be glued to the body. It was not a point attachment, but it was approx. 15 mm long so a smooth surface to glue against is not fun to fix. I drilled and installed some plastic rods to guide the mounting of the wings more easily. The fit wasn't the best. Lots of putty to get the undersides of the body smooth.
  22. I picked out a couple of Vampire trainers from the stash. I had purchased a conversion kit for an early T.55 from High Planes Models. In addition to the instructions, there were decals but unfortunately none for a Swedish plane. They were called J 28C in Sweden. Pitot tubes, seats and tail booms with the early fins that the first three J 28C-1's had. And the most important thing. The early canopy with a lot of frames. The booms must be cut and replaced by the resin parts. I'm not totally impressed with the fit of the Airfix model, but it's probably 10 years old by now. I like a black cockpit. All the details disappear so no use to put a lot of work into it. I have drawn a new instrument panel for it that is more reminiscent of the Swedish one compared to the Airfix decal. Since, to my great joy, there are two canopies included in the conversion, I decided to build a J 28C-1 with the later fins as well. Paper instruments here too but I need to use seats from Pavla as there are only parts for one plane in the HPM kit.
  23. I have bought a Sav m/43 from UM. The Swedish But I'm not entirely happy of the resin superstructure. The model on the left is Fujimi that I bought second hand. It look more correct even with the shorter chassis when you compare with the original. (the picture comes from http://www.ointres.se/sav_m43-2.jpg) Apart from the fact that it all looks too low, the resin part had some other problems. The bottom on the right side wasn't flat, it was curved and didn't sit right on the fender. The front has an fault to. It doesn't end up in a 90 deg angle to the sides. I tried to raise it with a little plastic at the bottom, but then everything ends up too far ahead. At the time I was testing things on a Strv m/41 chassis I was building at the time. I had an earlier attempt to build a Sav on a chassis from Attack that had failed so I tried my superstructure on the UM chassis. There are small differences in dimensions between Attack and UM kits so it does not fit completely but I think I will build a new superstructure. I'll use a slightly thicker plastic this time. I have now started on the UM model and noticed that they made a new plate above the transmission. It is thicker at the rear to increase the angle and fit against the new resin part. Unfortunately, it is too short for my construction. The plate is made to fit against the resin superstructure and therefore the distance from the transmission hatch and the front edge of the superstructure is too short. If I use the plate for the tank instead, things works better.
  24. Hi guys. I managed to finish my first model for 2021. It´s ACEs FV-623 Stalwart Mk.2, built as swedish Amfibiebil 101. Sweden starts testing the Alvis Stalwart in 1962 and ultimately used 24 of them until 1985. The vehicles were initially used as supply vehicles for the coastal artillery, later as towing vehicles for the mobile artillery command system "Arte 719". The kit is quite nice but brings a lot of flash on nearly all parts and so it takes it´s time to build. I painted the Amfibiebil after a single pic from the net, most of them should have worn a uniform dark green camouflage. The little base was my first try with "water", using a 2 component epoxy resin. Regards Daniel
  25. I have converted a 1/72 scale Fiat 621 from First To Fight in to a Scania Vabis 324. I marked it as a civilian truck pressed in to military service. As I mentioned earlier it is not a 100 % correct truck but at least I got something that look like a Scania Vabis 324.
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