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  1. Hi Everyone, this is something I've been working on as part of a bigger project to cover the (rather neglected) female pilots of the Star Wars OT era. Each project will have a craft and figure. For those of you that don't know, when they were made, ANH and ESB had no female pilots, but ROTJ was supposed to have them. They even shot video of three, but apparently test screenings of ROTJ with them in got negative comments about women in combat (this was 1983) so they took them out. Except one - an A-Wing pilot called Sila Kott who you can glimpse for a second before her death. But they over-dubbed her with a male voice! Of course, films like Rogue 1 and Book and Graphic Novels have since put matters right, but so far despite all the alterations, ROTJ is still female pilot free - although you can see them in the briefing room scene if you look very carefully. The first pilot I have done is Evaan Verlaine. She was the pilot of Y-Wing Gold 3 during the Death Star attack in ANH. You can see her craft at the very end just as the Death Star is about to blow along with Luke, Wedge and the Millennium Falcon. This is a canon retcon based on the Leia Graphic Novel (in Legends this pilot is Keyan Farlander). To create Evaan and Gold 3 I used the FineMolds 1:72 Y-Wing and a custom based on the Black Series 6" Luke Skywalker. Evaan Verlaine So far Evaan Verlaine has only been visualised in comic book form (in the graphic novel Princess Leia). The base for her figure is the 6" Black Series Luke Skywalker. All of the figure (apart from the chest box) has been repainted using Vallejo acrylics, using wet-blending, glazes and other interesting techniques I learned on YouTube. Her helmet is based on the supposed official one, but that is exactly the same as Blue Leader Antoc Merrick (in Rogue 1) so I made the alliance symbols Gold to make it different. Her head is 3D printed (using Shapeways) based on one I created using FaceGen Artist, DAZ Studio and 3DS Max. So who is she based on? Well officially there is only the graphic novel, however, there is a female cosplayer who thinks they may have based Evaan on her! I think she might have something, so the head is based on her. Y-Wing The main feature of Y-Wings is their beat-up Clone Wars era nature. To re-create that I initially sprayed the whole thing silver, then went round with maskol covering up places that would get worn or places damaged by attacks. A coat of FS36622 from Mr Hobby went over the top followed by rust for the pipe work. There is no accepted scheme for Gold 3 AFAIK, although due to script changes, Gold 5 has squadron markings that indicate Gold 3 (the cockpit stripes). So I just used a bit of artistic license and made it look as I wanted - I'm not a fan of the overuse of blue on the cockpit and engine pods so I made it as subtle as I could. Worn areas were left silver, but any battle damage areas were edged in black to simulate paint singeing. The whole thing was washed with Tamiya Panel line Dark Grey and a small amount of dry brushing of dirt was done. Ten points for anyone who can ID the R2 unit. This isn't canon (yet) but you never know! The next pair in the series will be TIE/Ln and Iden Versio from Battlefront. Thanks for looking 🙂 Chris
  2. This behind-the-scenes feature on ILM building a model Razor Crest for use in The Mandalorian TV series was on last night. https://youtu.be/8YuaIwVbEZo Great to see scale models being used again in this way. The skills on display are amazing. C’mon Bandai...now it’s your turn! Cheers, Dermot
  3. It is time to show the world my finished project! A BTL Y-Wing from starwars. I chose to model the Y-wing as I like the shape of the ship, noticed that there were very few paper models done of this craft and felt it would be a good challenge! The model started with myself gathering image references from around the internet to gauge the complexity of the design, look at design ideas and how it would transition into the real world with card/paper. Top, side, front and back profiles were then placed onto planes in my 3D software which allowed me to start modelling the basic shapes. Once I was happy with these shapes it was a matter of adding detail, and then more detail and then some more until I was happy. I had to be aware when modelling that smaller detail below 2mm would be problematic trying to create them in card/paper. I made the decision early that the bent pipes would be impossible to create in paper so would add this detail near the end using plastic rods. Once I was happy with the model I grouped the sections together to make it easier to apply the texture and to build, applied a UV Unwrap modifier, flattened the shapes and then started skinning in PS. I find its a good idea to have the modelling software open to render as I make changes to the painted sections, it allows you to see how your design is taking shape in the 3D world. The following renders were from the finished model in the 3D software. Once completed the model was exported in 3DS format to an unwrap software called Pepakura. This allowed to lay out sections of the model to print onto card. As you can see from the next image the cockpit section and R5 is unwrapped ready to make. I then printed on 230GSM card stock, scoring the folds and using glue to pull it all together. (UHU and liquid super glue). The tubes at the end used XF-80 light grey as a base and then XF-66 and XF-72 with a light brush to give a little bit of detail. The model is 1/55 scale as I wanted to match a previous build that I had made.
  4. Hi: Here you got my take on the smaller member of the AT family: the AT-PT. The model was CAD designed using Fusion360 and 3D printed with an Anycubic Photon resin 3D printer. These are all the required parts for this build. Please note all these pics show the naked model. No special post processing was required but removing the printing support trees. For comparaison purposes here we got the AT-PT body with the Imperial officer figure included in the Fine Molds 1:48th scale Tie figther kit. Compared to its bigger brothers, the migthy AT-AT and the double seat AT-ST, the single seat AT-PT looks like an imperial scooter. The source inspiration for this model came from the ancient Lucasarts video games. The simple lines reveals its digital nature but it is a rather appealing design for me at least. I have not decided a paint scheme yet. Plenty of options to choose from! That´s all for now so constructive comments are welcomed. Thanks for watching! Regards! Alvaro
  5. EL-5A Mouse Droid 1/12 3D Print I've recently bought a 3D printer (Elegoo Mars Pro), and have been slowly finding my feet with that and Fusion 360. I wanted something fairly simple as an initial print, and there's very little that's simpler than Nigel. He objected to a digital doppelganger though, so this initial print has become EL-5A who's now betrothed to Nigel in some kind of weird mouse droid arranged marriage. The print came out fairly well, although there are some things I need to tweak, both with the printing and with the original file. The upper body was done at 0.05mm layer hight, while everything else was done at 0.025mm, and there's a marked difference as you'd expect, so I'll be trying the body again at the higher rez. The one thing I wasn't sure would come out okay was the top greebles. I didn't know if my design would be beyond the printer's capabilities. As it turned out, they printed fine and are the bits of this model I'm most pleased with. They certainly showed just what the printer is capable of. She's not as heavily weathered as Nigel, which seemed only fair, and she's had the white stripes to reference her name and her status as the future bride of Nigel. Since I'd got the basic file for the body, I also printed up two more without the side panel details, so I could make up the Mouse train that was originaly envisaged for ANH, but never used on screen due to the unpredictability and general uselessness of all Mouse Droids. EL-5A, being an all-round better class of rodent, can handle them easily. Thanks for looking Andy
  6. Having bought an Anycubic Photon after Bootneck kindly pointed out they were on offer, I have been printing away for about 3 weeks. So now is the time to take the plunge and build someting that I've printed. I had been quietly watching StevenBills build of the Y-Wing using his Elegoo Mars and this got my interest up in building a Star Wars ship, the CG model was bought from CGTrader (same author as Steves Y-Wing) and away I went. A couple of weeks of printing got me here: Scalewise I thought I would revive the old 'Box scale' of the 50's, but this was going to be 'Printer scale' i.e. as big as the printer would handle. There were some issues along the way, mostly of my own doing, here is one of the main engines, correct on the left, failed print on the right: This was caused by the part next to it falling off the print bed, also the orientation of the part. Also I was getting a surface like cucumber skin: (Upper rear fuse parts) This was caused by orientation of the part on the print bed, the weight pulling the still soft resin out of shape. Most, if not all of the failures were caused by the orientation of the part on the printer bed, something I only realised part way through printing the kit so I've had to reprint a couple of parts and repair faults in others. Here is the difference that correct orientation makes, the two halves of the cockpit, correct orientation on the left, incorrect on the right. I've done some prep work on the resin (face mask firmly on ) sanding the flat surfaces to give better contact when assembling. The mating surfaces are not perfect, but better than most resin kits. As there are no instructions beyond an exploded view and some build photos I marked up some of the parts to avoid confusion. Thanks for looking in, Stuart
  7. How to Paint Imperial Galactic Fighters – Solution Book 05(A.MIG-6520) AMMO of Mig Jiménez There are a huge number of people that love the Sci-Fi movies of the Star Wars franchise, and some of the designs are amongst the most recognised spacecraft designs in the world. Of course there wouldn’t be any drama without a worthy adversary for the heroes of our story, which leads to the Galactic Empire, and later the First Order, who stepped in to fill the power vacuum after the apparent death of the evil Emperor Palpatine. Initially is was Star Destroyers and TIE Fighters, with the TIE Advanced making an appearance at the end of Episode IV during the Deathstar Trench battle, but the range of imperial equipment broadened with each successive movie. With the ending of the nine films of the Skywalker Saga, we’re spoiled for choice whether we enjoy portraying the baddies or the goodies. The Book This book deals with the baddies, although the techniques can be applied to many craft of either side. It is the turn of The Empire, specifically the TIE Advanced, and provides copious advice on how to create, paint and weather the 1:72 model, with kits from Bandai, Fine Molds, which is also reboxed in Revell garb, which is probably the easiest and cheapest option, given their excellent distribution network. After a brief introduction to the series, the first section of the book covers the various products that will be used during the second section, which are the products that are needed to complete the task, which are all available from AMMO as you would expect, but of course there are similar products available from other manufacturers that you might already have in your modelling arsenal. The second section contains a ton of advice on using the products mentioned in section 1. There is another short introduction regarding the specific subject as mentioned above, then it launches into the painting and weathering process beginning with a group of sub-assemblies that enable the modeller to get to work on the cockpit, the Darth Vader figure and the instrument decals around his seat. Then basic exterior painting is begun, initially having a bland overall coating, followed by painting the cranked “solar” sails and lots of masking of the black areas. The panel lines are darkened then various lightening phases are applied, plus accents, streaks and other grime that starts to individualise any model. As well as various captions, there are also a series of icons that help to guide you along, with a key at the beginning in case you can’t figure them out from the graphics. Oil Brusher highlights then gives way to washes of various colours to further break the monotony of the base colour and adding more streaks, stains and general degrading and weathering of the paintwork. Finally, a two-page spread shows a summary of the finished model with the product images around it with arrows showing where they were used. Conclusion These books are quite wallet friendly, and if you’ve not come across the techniques documented within they’re a useful resource. Even if you have used them before, they’re a useful quick reference, and for someone like myself with the memory of an amœba, they’ll come in very handy indeed. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  8. After finally achieving a finished model in the last Bank Holiday Blitzbuild, I decided to see if I could repeat the success, so here is my entry for this weekend of holiday fun. by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr
  9. Hi all. It has been very fast to perform because they are few pieces and also their size is not large (it fits in the palm of the hand) so what you have to do with paint or effects does not make it lengthen over time. I have really enjoyed this kit and the pity is that I am afraid that Bandai is not replacing the kits that it launched at the time, since I see these kits more and more scarce and at a higher price. A shame because they are of the highest quality. Whoever wants to see the process followed with this model can do so at the following link. Andrés S.
  10. Here's one I built some years ago when i was in Saudi. I think I posted here back then but can't find it now. So it probably fell foul of the Photobucket thing. I gave it to my Son but over time it got damaged so I recently gave it a refurbishment. With some fine builds coming out of Scandinavia recently, I though it worth another showing. The figure was an ancient Revell Astronaut, the bike is totally scratchbuilt. In fact I started with some 1/24th Airfix Fw190 engine bits. TBH, it's a bit rough but was one of my early scratchbuilds and I have a soft spot for it. These sidepods once contained pencil leads.The landing gear was spares box stuff. I refurbished this Speeder Bike at the same time, so he can now do a flyby and check out the opposition. They're about the same scale. Thanks for looking, Comments are welcome as always. Pete
  11. A couple of weeks ago I received a box of spare parts for my scratchbuilds from a fellow BM member (Thanks again, Ben) Amongst the tank bits were the parts for an old part painted Ertl X wing. I've never built one and, me being me, decided a few changes might improve it. It struck me that if these things were dogfighting in atmosphere then a good turning circle would be an idea. So why not use spoilers? same as the Snowspeeder. While I was at it, a different low viz (ish) paint scheme might be good too. And, markings, well, The D day aniversary is coming up shortly! So, onto the pictures. The stand is an old Airfix jobbie, the plaque came with the kit. You can see the RH spoilers deployed. I added a tank side skirt down each side as extra armour. Something like the Fw 190's used. The pilot is from the spares box. A better view of the side armour. The camo is Tamiya rattle cans. The darker one from a distance for the mottled effect. Rather than red 2 or whatever I thought D day stripes might look good, especially with the anniversary coming up. The spoilers are actually made from HO railway fencing. The yellow areas in the wings/foils should be voids but with the spoilers I decided they'd need beefing up. So I added card and a couple of tank bits with Forth bridge rivets in them. And a view from behind. The other side has the spoilers retracted. I added tank wheels and bits of track here on the back of the foils. The R2 astro unit is currently trying to find a vector out of the mancave. I added a couple of service points underneath. More tank bits. And a Spitfire radiator forward of them. It hides a slot in the plastic. And that's your lot. It was an enjoyable build, the only 'straight' (ish) kit I've build in a very long time. But I started another kreiger scratchbuild today! Thanks very much for looking and your comments are welcome. Pete
  12. Relatively new member been posting my latest build in aircraft but thought I’d post some of my other recently completed builds as well this one was a friends loft find started 35 years ago and then forgotten - absolute pig to build but turned out ok in the end
  13. Hi to all. This is my recent finish, an old MPC kit. Is quite spartan, positive panels but easy to asemble, is a snap kit. I only added some detalis for the pilot. I tried extensive use of pre shading effect. I finished with Testors and Tamiya paints. I hope you like it. Regards, Pablo
  14. Revell U-Wing with custom base. From Star Wars Rogue One
  15. Hi chaps. It's been a long time since I posted on here. As I've just been laid off work, for at least the next month due to coronavirus, I have decided to throw myself into my modeling again. This kit has been in my stash for about 3 years, I picked it up at the huddersfield show. It's an old airfix kit of slave 1. There's no scale on the box, but I seem to remember reading it was something weird like 1:83! As you can see the box has seen better days. Have made a start, and will post up the obligatory sprue shots tomorrow. Matt
  16. Hey. Thought I'd share some pics of my current project, the Bandai 1/72 BTL-A4 Y-Wing Starfighter This is my first kit and build in close to four years, and the first I've ever tried to weather up/varnish etc, so any feedback would be welcome Not yet complete, of course. The cockpit section isn't fully seated because it'll be easier to weather the back panel with it off, heh.
  17. Hi all and hope you're all staying safe and keeping well. This was a little build to restore the mojo - they're the Bandai 1/144 TIE Fighters from Force Awakens but backdated to Empire-era and one converted to a TIE Brute. Build thread if you're interested is here but to recap: Kit: Bandai Vehicle Model 004 First Order TIE Fighter set Build: One built OOB and one converted to TIE Brute Paint: Halfords Grey Primer, Revell Acrylics, Flory Models Wash Bandai_Model_004_Tie_Fighter by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Bandai_Model_004_TIE Fighter_2 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Bandai_Model_004_TIE Brute_1 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Bandai_Model_004_TIE Brute_head by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Bandai_Model_004_TIE Fighters Rear by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Bandai_Model_004_TIE Fighters_scale by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Bandai_Model_004_Tie_Fighters_done by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Thanks for looking and stay safe! Cheers, Dermot
  18. 'tis the season to build Star Wars, fa la la la la, la la la la Kit Manufacturer: Bandai. Scale: 1/144. Paints used: Vallejo Model Air. Clear coats: Tamiya semi gloss and Windsor & Newton Galeria Gloss/Matt varnishes mixed 50/50ish (because I ran out of Tamiya semi gloss). Weathering products - Flory washes overall, AK Interactive Bearings and Grease enamel wash. Aftermarket - Picture frame, rose gold copper wire, Tamiya Diorama Texture Paint (snow). Krystal Klear for sticking down a couple of the stickers on the Snowspeeder. I assembled these models in 2017, with a grand idea of sticking an arduino inside the body of the AT-AT, to control a couple of fibre optic strands in the chin guns, for a guns firing effect, and an LED in the "head" for the red "windscreen". Decided to abandon that idea as it was never going to be visible, just too small an effect on the guns at this scale and you don't see a red "windscreen" lit up in Empire anyway... ...So it sat for 2 years waiting for me to paint it all and put it on a base! Surprisingly the stickers on the Snowspeeder were as thin as decals, and didn't pose any problems, apart from a couple peeling on me... The purists will say "that's Luke's Snowspeeder", "your AT-AT is grey". It's not, I didn't put the specific markings on besides the grey stripes. I also really didn't fancy masking off the grey stripes on the Snowspeeder and painting them orange instead. And, I know. I would have preferred to have achieved that whiter grey look to the AT-AT, but I didn't, for reasons... I was going to buy a Rebel Alliance turret from a seller on Shapeways, I'm glad I didn't as there wouldn't be room on the base and due to limited display space I couldn't go bigger/longer on the base... Photos - Tried to get a "person standing on the ground looking up" view with these, unfortunately they're not much different to those above as I couldn't get my camera low enough - Couple of photos "from above" - Thanks for looking.
  19. This is my Fine Molds1/48 Snowspeeder. Cracking little kit, but teeny tiny even in 1/48 I wasn't too fussed about 100% accuracy when painting the interior - especially as I struggled to find decent ref pics, I was looking more for the effect of making it look "busy" and I am very happy with how its turned out. Rest of the construction will be 15 mins work, then I'm going to try pre-shading this one. Looking forward to some heavy weathering
  20. Hi Everyone, I got a request from a colleague to paint her fresly 3D printed Baby Yoda figure. It was a surprise for me that such a 3D model can be downloaded but nowadays everything is possible. So she passed me over the figure which was originally full clean "snow white". Just like a Snowman (with funny ears, obviously) or like a sugarcone, but I liked it. When discussing about the paint process "just simply paint it to green and sandbrown please" I pointed out that the 3D printer she used has a low resolution therefore massive sanding and filling will be required to have an acceptable result. And this painting project will be a bit longer than she thought. Finally we got the deal and I took the figure home. As a first step, after some 2-3 hours of sanding over the back of Yoda's head, his nose and the letters on the stand, I have applied a full cover of 1500 grade Gunze Black Surfacer / Primer from a rattle can and left it drying for one day. Next morning I checked the result and realised that the figure and letters are still not smooth enough, so it was fully re-primed with 500 Grade Surfacer hand applied and sanded after drying. Finally it looked OK to start the painting process. To get a uniform shade, a new layer of black 1500 grade Surfacer was applied and let dry for a day. The first colour I used was Mig-023 Protective Green mixed with Mig-247 Hellblau. Highlights were applied using overdiluted Mig-247 Hellblau. After some drying time I enhanced the lower areas of the head and the palms of Yoda’s hands with light layer of Mig-023. Now it looks like a faded crocodile but looks OK to me. The only thing missing is the diffuse “hair” he has on the head but that is not what I am able to apply. The back of the head is OK and way more smoother than the original 3D printed surface was. After taking the photos, I have observed some minor holes on the top of the head which will be addressed in the next step – filling-up and some hand painting to complete the head.There are other very structured surfaces all around the figure but as I could not attack them with any sanding stick, I decided to live with these structures. Anyway, Baby Yoda is a strange alien life-form so his skin can be very structured just like a crocodile, cannot be? The plan to follow is to mask off the head and the hands, then paint the haircloth he wears. I will likely paint first the deep shadow using Mig-043 Shadow Rust and than apply the main color using Mig-025 US Moder Vehicles and Mig-027 German Sand Beige (for some specific areas as color variation) and finish the haircloth using Mig-036/037/038 wood colors (highlights). More to come soon! Tamás
  21. Managed to pick this up dirt cheap from a toy store. Nice little toy, and again, great for a practise piece. I could have spent a bit more time on it but quite happy how it came out for a quickie. Before After (obviously)
  22. Hello everyone! Tepidly starting my first build log. For those of you who decide to follow it, be patient - this is an ongoing odyssey of over a decade now! To cut a long story short. Back in 2002 relatives brought me a vaunted 1/72 Fine Molds X-Wing kit from abroad. Fine Molds were just starting their line and this was the absolute gem of Star Wars scale models. Even today, it's still a great kit. Unfortunately, despite my truly best (brush) efforts, the paint mix (based on the long-extinct Bulgarian "Aerotone" paints) made a chemical reaction midway through painting and resulted in a cracked plastic along the recessed panel lines, in addition to a thick coating that covered up details. And so, the kit sat in this state for several years... Until I decided to strip the paint, disassemble it and start a new. Photos from 2014 when I started the cleanup. Notice the horribly damaged panel lines, cracked fuselage panels and softened details. Raised details on the fuselage were either lost or badly faded. I cleaned up the parts of all paint and glue, and stored them until the day I finally had an airbrush... The canopy clear parts after a lot of polishing: Lot of salvaged parts: In sum, I lost: 1 gun nacelle (finned round radiator housing of the blaster cannon), 1 engine intake, the entire rear part of the cockpit, the radiator at the fuselage top-rear end, as well as some small details around the wing roots. All of these will have to be scratch built!
  23. Back in the 80's I purchased, as a job lot, the MPC Snap versions of the X-Wing, A-Wing, TIE Interceptor and the B-Wing, the subject of this little revisit. (They may have been in a 4 ship box set thinking back) Image below for reference I recall I assembled the B-Wing on the train home from Oxford. Once home I painted it... not very well. It had a stand, long since lost to time, marriage, children and house moves. I still have two of it's stable mates more or less intact and shall turn my attention to them in the future. The finish on the B-Wing didn't look any better. So I disassembled it (sorry, didn't think to take a piccie before I had done this and started work). Filled and sanded some significant holes including the original stand location on the engine housing on the right Thinned the intake walls to produce an impression of scale thickness Fixed the seam on the cockpit section including removing some serious misalignments in the detail around the circumference and cleaned up the hole at the back to a more consistent profile. Spent a cosy evening yesterday recreating the intake at the front of the main engine nacelle from plasticard so it wouldn't look so much like it was made from thick sliced bread Really rather pleased with that I also drilled out the guns but no piccie for that yet. That's as far as it goes for now. Thanks for looking in Phil
  24. Hello again folks, I thought I'd share with you my latest project, For this I took a bandai K-2SO and decided to give him a new job, hence the name change, so may i present K-SSU, or 'K-series Stormtrooper Support Unit'. He's been tasked with assisting Sandtroopers on the planet of Tatooine, looking for hidden rebel sympathisers. I didn't feel the need to do a WIP due to it already being covered by Andy Moore with his fabulous K-2S0, but for anybody thinking about grabbing one and having a bash, then push the button, you wont be disappointed. (please excuse the mass of pics)
  25. I've just got back from the post office, having paid the usual ransom fee to claim my own property , but it does mean that I've finally got my personal Star Wars holy grail, the B-Wing. I know it's nothing new at this point, having been around in the US for a couple of months due to the SDCC exclusive, but I'll post some sprue shots for those that haven't seen it up close yet. Before I do though, a quick mention of the box art. It's a bit of a 'greatest hits' for Bandai, with X, Y and A-Wings and the Falcon all making an appearance. More importantly, though, lurking in the background you can see Home One, Ackbar's flagship from the battle of Endor. In the past, Bandai has shown subjects in the background of box artwork that have subsequently gone on to be released as kits, so I'm going to call it now. We'll be getting a box scale Mon Cal Cruiser at some point in the future. You heard it here first. Unless I'm wrong... then you definitely heard it somewhere else. I digress though, so back to the sprues. Sprue A The standard Bandai multi-colour sprue. Cockpit parts, visor, engine intake and guns Cockpit detail looks good, with the seat moulded onto the back wall. The big lug that Bandai always add to seats to secure the pilot figure is a bit ugly, but you'll need the figure in place anyway, as there's no landing gear included so no option to have it on the ground. The instrument panel looks nicely busy. As usual, Bandai gives you the option for a glazed canopy or an open frame. The guns aren't hollowed out at the ends so they'll need drilling. Sprue B The main parts for the blade aerofoil and the two smaller S foils. There's nice detailing on all the wing sections. Sprue C Fuselage sections and the cockpit outer shell. The cockpit shell isn't slide moulded, but it is a single piece so no seams to clean up. This sprue is where you'll also find Ten Numb. Nice detailing and he looks a bit better proportioned than some of Bandai's earlier pilots, particularly with the arms/hands. Sprue D (x2) Two small sprues holding the engine nozzles and other detail parts. Sprue FB-1 The clear sprue for the multi-part stand. I'm not quite sure what this is made from. It's slightly softer and more flexible than normal styrene. It could be a hard PVC or just a soft grade styrene. Sprue SWE1 Finally, you get the usual Bandai laser blast sprue that absolutely no one ever uses. Instructions are standard Bandai fare, albeit in a stapled booklet rather than the fold-out sheets they've used in the past. Also standard is the option for waterslides or stickers. I've never been that keen on Bandai's decals as the printing is often a little rough and pixilated, although they generally go down well. These look okay apart from the colour of the Hinomaru markings, which are far too yellow and should be more orange. I've got quite a bit on at the moment, but hopefully the build should begin before too long. Andy
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