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Found 299 results

  1. Just about to start a new thread on a re-build, re-paint and accurising of a big Jakks Pacific R2 toy like I'm doing with the K-2SO. I will get some picture up later.
  2. Hi guys I've been a member for a while but this is my first post here,....My name is John & I'm from Carrickfergus (10 miles from Belfast) You might get to notice that I tend to build 1 craft......in different scales.....different versions...... ....the Millennium Falcon from Star Wars I've built various MPC kits (the one from '78),....the most recent I spent quite a long time on & sold it to a collector about 95% completed I've got 2 FineMolds 1/72 & 1 of the 1/144 I'm in the middle of modding the big Hasbro toy Falcon (works out to be 1/48) & two of these fantastic Bandai 1/144 The Force Awakens Falcon kits So....this thread is dedicated to the Bandai kit modded to reproduce how the Falcon appeared in the first Star Wars 1977 (A New Hope) I got my Shapeways parts today (27 Nov) sculpted by Tony FZ6 & I started modding Dish: Really Really happy with the detail on the printed parts: Started plating: Constantly smoothing & refining Thanks for looking John Wow, thanks for the welcome Dermo (& the likes guys).....Yep theres a lot of these birds being built at the minute Theres a good bit to catch up to where I am now with this build (paint & PE),....but this was the next in my progress: TFA docking rings are a bit plain,....while the 5 footer is more random Gonna have to find some really fine greeblies for the cockpit walkway: Thanks for looking John
  3. My pal printed this out for me on his whizz-bang super-duper 3D printer, but I'll leave his name a mystery so he doesn't get bombarded with similar requests. This wasn't a cheap item to print, but it was worth it just to test the capabilities of the printer! Although it was printed before Christmas, I didn't receive it until a week or two ago, and have only now gotten round to doing a little work on it today. It's a phone pic, and the main upper receiver part was missing at this stage, due to it having to be printed separately. you can see the resin is still damp from clean-up, but what you can't see too well is the level of detail that's been achieved with a relatively "cheap" printer. A couple of years back this would probably have cost a quarter of a mill, but now it's a few tens of thousands. We're a long way from being able to print a squadron of Spitfires overnight, but we're getting there. They do need to reduce the cost of consumables though, as it's shocking how much a kilo of the stuff costs - it's almost as expensive as a gallon of inkjet printer ink! The grips on the handle of what was once a Broom-Handled Mauser were first to see the sanding sticks & primer, as tonight I just don't seem to be able to focus on anything meaningful, as I'm dog-tired and more than a little bit sore. I've been sat there staring into space with a sanding stick in hand, and a grip in the other, idly buffing at it to see how quickly the parts can be made ready for paint. These parts are curved, so as you can imagine, with them being made of thousands of tiny flat layers, there is some texture to them and a bit of sanding and filling was/is necessary. Comparing this print to the previous printer I've had dealings with though, the difference is chalk and cheese. The layers are far less obtrusive, and that means a lot less clean-up to get a smooth finish. hell, if I wasn't picky, I could just prime it with a high-build primer, slap a coat of paint on it and go "Pew, pew, pew" to my heart's content I'd like to do a bang-up job of it though, to do justice to the super job that Mister X did of the print. I thought I'd start with the grips because there are two of them, so it'll be easy to gauge the difference that a few coats of primer have made. As you can see, two coats of primer and some fairly idle sanding have improved it a lot, and with an extra session, plus paying a little more detail to the grooves, it should be ready for paint in no time. These are wooden on the real thing, so a little roughness is to be expected, but I'm going to go for a sleek, worn look when I finally get around to painting them. How I'll achieve wood grain effect though, I have no idea. We shall see. There are some replacement wooden grips available on eBay at the moment, which come with all the necessary bolts to hold the grips firmly to the frame, but comparing my Airsoft Mauser to this one, there are some subtle shape differences that might end up with a poorly fitting part. They're also £20, which is a fair wedge for something that might be useless really. I'll be updating this as-and-when I have time to make any progress, and I might also add the progress pics of my Son's Nerf version of this gun when it arrives, as I intend to paint it in proper colours, leaving the tip that blaze red colour, just in case. It's not as accurate as this one in terms of look (they've had to shoe-horn the Nerf mechanism into an elongated receiver), but it might reduce his clamour for this one. The flash-suppressor is a tad delicate IMO, and might not react well to being accidentally smacked against a door frame, swing, dog or my head
  4. Good evening folks I got the Revell AT-ACT for my birthday (along with the Star Destroyer). Now while these are very toy like I actually really like what Revell have managed to do for this price. But the AT-ACT is rather devoid of detail. So I thought that detailing this chap could be quite fun while I await the redesign of my studio/workshop, as I don’t want to start anything too complicated before the move. I had a quick look through the Rogue One visual guide book which has a couple of decent shots. I still thought that it looked a little, under-done so I went looking online and found some pictures of a couple of Hasbro toy versions which were very much more detailed, lots more greeblies. So one question is: are there any detailed pictures from any of the other visual guides or other Rogue One books that show different versions of the AT-ACT? Another question is: do I take the detailing from the Hasbro toys and use that as a pattern for my Revell AT-ACT? I rather like the extra detailing in the toys but would it look too busy as this scale? Any and all help is, as always, greatly appreciated. Cheers MD
  5. Star Wars Imperial Star Destroyer - Rogue One 1:4000 Revell Star Wars is a little-known cult series of films about two 'droids called R2-D2 and C-3PO, that some of you may have seen. In line with the latest film of the franchise, which goes by the name Rogue One, Revell have released a number of new Star Wars kits with newly Rogue One themed boxart. The Star Destroyer has gone through a number of variants/versions for the various films, and quite frankly I get a bit lost as they're all huge and cheese-wedge shaped, so I hope the purists will forgive me. If you've not seen Rogue One, you should perhaps check it out, as if enough people watch it, they might make another one. The Kit Right from the start I feel the need to state that this is a Level 1 Make & Play "kit", and not the newly minted (and huge) Zvezda kit that is soon to be reboxed under the Revell brand. The kit is snap-together, using pillars and tubes that friction-fit together, locking the parts in place to all but the most determined fingers. It measures 400mm long, and comes in 46 parts, some of which are quite small, and could get lost if you (or a child) open them a bit too enthusiastically. The parts are all pre-cut from the moulding sprues, so there's less to throw away, and they are held loosely in place within the box by clear vacformed mouldings, which do go in the bin. It has light and sound, which is always a fun aspect of these kits for the kids, and my 6 year-old was cock-a-hoop when I demonstrated it to him, scurrying off to show mummy in a very excited manner. Everything clips together easily, with only the small clear blue liners to the engines a little tricksy in places, and the purists will have literal kittens when they see the three "landing gear" panels that hinge down from the lower hull to allow it to be stood square on the shelf when not in use. Small fingers find those a bit fiddly, but after a few operations, they slacken up a bit, and familiarity helps too. In step 4 and 5 the instructions show the rear detail area being constructed from two main parts that encompass and trap the exhaust bells in place behind the heavy light & sound module. The lower section is fitted to the lower hull, the exhausts mounted, and then the upper section is placed on the lower part, after which the upper hull is added. This turns out to be a bit fiddly, so install the upper rear part in the upper hull to make your life easier. The rest of the kit builds up very quickly, and if you're familiar with construction kits, you could have it ready for action in 10 minutes or less if you're that excited. The other moving parts are the small gun emplacements on the flanks of the superstructure, which clip in place and rotate quite freely once inserted. They have been moulded in a slightly darker grey styrene to help them stand out, as have the golf-ball shield generators and the lattice structure between them. On completion of the build, pulling out the little plastic tab on the underside allows the three 1.5v LR44 batteries to make contact with the circuit, and pressing the small square button on the underside will then play one of two sound clips from one of the movies (It sounds like A New Hope to me), which you will be able to hear if you play the video clip that I've embedded from Revell. The rear exhausts also emit a baleful blue light, but it doesn't extend to the smaller pairs of exhausts, even though they have clear blue inserts of their own. It's a minor omission, but it makes you wonder why they bothered with the inserts. Nevermind. Also on the underside is a small compartment for the batteries that you access with a small Phillips screwdriver, and if you can't be bothered Googling the alternative codes for the LR44, they are AG13, AG14, LR1154, AG76 and many others. It's about time battery manufacturers did something about that! Finally, there is a small grille near the button that allows the sound from the speaker to escape from the hull. Whoever put the kit together in the video needs more finger strength. My example had none of those massive gaps between the parts once the parts had been properly squeezed together. Conclusion Little Johnny or Jemima will love this, although the detail compromises that have been made to facilitate play will have the perfectionists rocking back and forth in a corner, but they should rest easy, as they're not the intended market. As I have said in the past, this series of kits is aimed squarely at kids, who don't care that Star Destroyers don't have landing gear, and that the panel lines are over-scale, and they certainly can't wait for the kit to be painted before they start whizzing it round the living room. My son still regularly plays with the other kits from this series, and this one has become a firm favourite with him too in the short time he's had playing with it. If they were to do a Make & Play Kylo Ren's or Krennic's shuttle, he'd be one happy boy, but if they did a new shuttle Tyderium with light & sound, he'd go ballistic, as he's inherited his love for that design from his old man. One of the many reasons I remain a proud dad. Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  6. She's done, the Koensayr Manufacturing BTL-A4 Y-wing starfighter, painted up in a dulled down 'squid pink' for something a little different. Lovely kit to build, everything goes together so well. It's my third build and my favourite so far; got to try out some new techniques - hairspray chipping and adding washes which I hadn't done before but which have worked well. There is a WIP here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235015735-bandai-172-y-wing/ if anyone is interested. Purposeful bomber pose, not a bad shot from an iPhone. Overall I like the look - the front cannons are a bit 'heavy' and its not helped by the Tamiya Gunmetal I painted them with, it is (in my hands at least) very 'lumpy' and I'm not much keen on it. The droid - my terracotta tea-pot that I'm not so pleased with, I thought he'd set-off the Y-Wing by being a different tone but it doesn't really work as I wanted. I could have repainted him but I thought I put him up and see what others think of him. The pink stripes on the nacelle came out better than I expected - I really struggled with the masking and then on my next trip to the hobby shop found out you can buy special tape for masking curves... The underside, really pleased with how the weathering - a combination of Vajello washes and MIG enamels has come out The two little rust streaks are my favourite bit of weathering. I wasn't sure if I should add more - but working on the 'less is more' principle I thought I'd quit while ahead and leave it as is. Little streaks of grime added with MIG enamels. The pink paint was chipped with MIG chipping fluid and the 'undercoat' chips were sponged on after. The chipping fluid was the 'heavy' version which resulted in chips a bit too big for my tastes - I'll try to pick up a 'lighter' chip effect fluid before reusing the technique on something this small. Well used craft - some Tamiya weathering pastels were used to add the soot/blast marks. Thanks for looking - any feedback gratefully received.
  7. Star Wars - The Force Awakens Millennium Falcon 1:72 Revell Easy Kit She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts. If you have not heard of the Millennium Falcon by now, then where have you been since 1977! Central to the plot in the Earlier films it would seem the Millennium Falcon has been brought back for the latest film with the rather tantalising glimpse in the trailer of Han and Chewie returning "home". The Kit Here Revell have re-boxed their earlier kit with a new sprue for the updated parts, and some rather fake looking effects pre-painted on the hull. The kit arrives with the main hull on two large sprues, three other sprues (including the new one) and two clear sprues. The clear sprue for the rear exhaust area has been sprayed blue on one side, some of the overspray from the process has covered the front side and could do with being cleaned off. Construction begins with the cockpit pod. Here the sides have been coloured straight matt black, unlike the earlier release which had the seats a different colour. The cockpit and rear bulkhead are fitted into the lower pod half. Next up construction moves to the landing gear. If the gear is going to be up then these don't need to be built (though the instructions only tell you this later!) Next to be built up is the is part of the internal ramp and the new radar scanner for the top. Moving to the underside of the craft the ramp is mounted as are the lower guns. The landing gear, or the covers if building gear up can then be added. The Internal ramp parts are then added along with the lower turret glazing. Next all the side components are added into the lower hull. Most of these just slot into place, though the instructions have you taping some of them in place to hold them in which seems a bit Heath Robinson (Rube Goldberg for our US readers!). The last part to be added is the lower cockpit pod. With the lower hull parts sorted it is time to move to the top hull. The top turret guns and glazing are added along with the top of the cockpit pod. The radar unit can be added now as well. Finally the two halves of the hull can be joined to complete the model. Conclusion Sadly Revell have rather ruined the look of the kit with their colouring of the parts, this could be fixed by painting it. Recommended only if you understand what you're getting in the box. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  8. TIE Interceptor Finemolds 1/72 Hi everyone This was built in Febuary 2014. It was the first Finemolds SW kit I'd built and it was very nice, though a little undersized for 1/72. The base was made from various bits and bobs built up on the supplied kit base. I added a few LEDS to the base to add a bit of interest. Enjoy the shots Thanks for looking Andy
  9. Here's a build I'm doing of K-2SO I'm using a Jakks Pacific Big Fig and adding parts to make it better, giving it a better paint job and changing the pose. After a lot of sanding and filing of the seams I gave it a coat of primer. Then I got busy with the lathe and machined some aluminium rod down to replace the hinges and joints. The first picture shows the replacement joints I made and then there's a couple of pictures of the old joints cut off and replaced with the new ones.
  10. Workhorse of the Rebellion the venerable BTL-A4 Y-Wing Starfighter. It'll be an out of the box build but I do want to do a custom paint job rather than Gold Leader; partially for fun and partially as I'd like to do Gold Leader when I have the skills to do it justice. It goes together very easily but there are lots (and lots) of fragile little piping pieces - I'm amazed I only broke one. Here it is with most of the piping in place. It is so well engineered that what could have been extremely frustrating was actually rather enjoyable - although I was glad to finish with the piping. Looking at the phot now it seems there are a few spots that'll need filling before the primer goes down. and a couple of days later ready to prime. I elected to paint it in as big as possible parts as following my Gundam build i'm over having lots of little bits to paint individually - I hope I don't come to regret this idea.
  11. First finished build for 2017, this is Bandai's 1/12 K-2SO from Rogue One. Even if you haven't seen it yet, it's not really giving much away to say he pretty much steals the film. In many ways he's even better than 3P0 and R2. Bandai's kit is for the most part as good as all their previous releases, although the plastic is quite soft which makes cleaning up the sprue gates (which aren't as well hidden as some of the earlier kits) a little harder. I tried to mach the weathering to the real K2 as much as possible, using hairspray chipping and various washes to build up the grime on his plating. The base is a rough representation of the Jedha landscape. Full build here Thanks for looking Andy
  12. So this fella' arrived last night and I can't wait to get started on it soon! I haven't build a Bandai kit before but have followed and been inspired by the many great builds I've seen here. I had a couple of newbie questions that I was hoping fellow BM'ers could help me with... Should I glue the parts or is the push-fit process strong enough to keep it all together? Do I need to seal the factory paint-finish with Klear before I start weathering? Or is it ok to weather right on top of it? I've read about the plastic being fragile with/attacked by certain products - I mostly use acrylics and water-based so would I be ok with those? Any advice on a final finish for this guy - Matt, Satin or Gloss? Sorry for all the queries, thanks in advance! Cheers, Dermot
  13. My first SciFi subject.....A real pleasure ! Cheers Pierre
  14. Hi All Here is my recently completed Revell U-wing transport from 'Rogue One'. This ship is in my top 5 favorite Star Wars ships (the Republic Gunship, aka LAAT/i, is my favorite all-time) as I have thing for helicopter gunships like the Vietnam War era Huey in the real world. The same individual who 3D-milled the center drive section for my AT-ACT also milled the replacement engine nozzles and rear radiator panel for this kit as it was missing altogether (Revell received the U-wing profiles/plans for production from Lucasfilm before the ship's design was finalized for the movie). Instead of doing a total repaint, I concentrated on the areas around the seams and just touched those spots up after filling them in. The markings on the fuselage were distressed with a sanding stick or hobby knife (except the gray panel on the right side- it was airbrushed over some sprinkled salt for the chipping effect). The entire ship then received a pastel chalk wash. A little heavier than I intended, especially around the engines, so we'll just chalk it up to heavy interstellar abuse. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Albert
  15. While watching Rogue One I was looking at all the shiny vehicles that could be modelled (I'm sure I am not alone with this thought). When the AT-ST appeared all I could think of was the thread in the Sci-Fi discussion section called "Star Wars AT-ST camouflage schemes" by Gekko_1. I don't know a whole lot about camouflage schemes in the real world but I wanted to do one in an urban setting so I hit google hard. While I was researching I started the model build. There are dozens of WIP for Bandai AT-ST's written by much more accomplished modellers so I won't bore you with the build. Before finishing the actual build I decided that I wanted to paint the cockpit, I know its not going to be seen again but I still wanted to do it and I need as much experience as possible.
  16. Speeder Bike and Biker Scout Bandai 1/12 Star Wars build no. 4 for the year, and this one went together as well as all the others from Bandai, although the size and shape of it make it somewhat unwieldy when it's all together. The trooper had to be pinned to the saddle to stop him from sliding around and the whole thing's surprisingly heavy, there's quite a lot of plastic in this. The wip thread is here I'll definitely get another at some point, when Disney sort out the mess they've created, as I'd like to do a Hoth one in white, but for now here's the Endor version. Thanks for looking Andy
  17. Kuat Systems Engineering Firespray-31-class patrol and attack craft Slave I Bandai Slave I (1/144 scale); completed in Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics, MIG enamels, and Secret Weapon Miniatures pigments. The stand and the Star Wars decal are from the Fine Molds version of this model and the mythosaur skull was made with my Cameo cutting machine. All and all, I think this kit turned out great. I was pretty nervous about starting it because the paint job is pretty complex, but once I got in the thick of it I was okay. It could probably stand to use some more weathering and I'll probably do some before I take it to the model club meeting next month, but for now I'm calling it done. The work in progress log can be found here. Comments and criticism is welcomed as always!
  18. I've been longing to build a model of one of the coolest Star Wars ships of all time, Boba Fett's Slave I. Like all Bandai kits, this 1/144 scale version of his iconic ship comes premolded in various colors but unlike most Bandai Star Wars kits, this one has to be painted if you want to accurately represent the ship. Having the parts organized by color makes painting it pretty easy given how complex the rear of the ship is. I removed and cleaned all of the parts from the sprue and organized them by what color they were to be painted. After I got all of the rear pieces organized, I started painting the cockpit. Most sources show that the cockpit should be army green but I much prefer grey, which was Tamiya Neutral Grey (XF-53) in this case. I highlighted a few bits with some Vallejo light grey and silver and gave everything a wash with MIG Dark Wash (enamel). The front console was painted with Tamiya Deep Green (XF-26), I applied some liquid mask with a sponge and then gave it a coat of NATO Black (XF-69). The bottom dark grey layer of the rear was painted with Tamiya German Grey (XF-63) and given a wash with MIG Dark Wash enamel. The engine nozzles were undercoated with Tamiya Buff (XF-57), had some liquid mask applied with a sponge, and then given a coat of coppery brown mixed with a few Vallejo reds and browns. I preshaded the green bits with Tamiya Flat Black (XF-1) and gave them a coat of Tamiya Field Green (XF-65) followed by a wash with MIG Dark Wash enamel as the first pass of weathering. The grey parts were preshaded with Tamiya German Grey (XF-63), painted with Mr Color 315 (Gray FS16440), and given a wash with MIG Neutral Wash enamel. I also applied a few of the small decals on the grey parts. I love how layers of parts are stacked on top of each other to make a complex surface. There is even parts that can't really be seen unless you hold it just so; it really is quite impressive. After all of the pieces are in place, more weathering will be added to dirty everything up, mainly chipping on the raised areas, more enamel washes, and possibly some pigments. The stabilizers were painted with Mr Color 315 (Gray FS16440), the yellow markings/chips were painted with a mix of Flat Yellow (XF-3) and Yellow Green (XF-4), the red strip was painted with a mix of Flat Red (XF-7) and Hull Red (XF-9), and the entire assembly was given a pin wash with MIG Neutral Wash enamel. After everything dries, they'll get a coat of matte varnish and then more weathering. Moving on the the front "skirt," I started with the base coat of pale green. According to the painting guide supplied with the Fine Molds version of this kit, the "correct" color is supposed to be Tamiya J.A. Grey (XF-14). This was a little too green for my taste, I mixed in some Tamiya Medium Grey (XF-20) and Flat White (XF-2) in a ratio of 3:2:2 to get this wonderful pale green. Also, I took this photo while experimenting with a new 50mm lens I bought for my Nikon. I would like to take all of my work in progress shots like this but it's much easier to grab my iPhone and snap a few quick pictures. After giving the skirt a nice coat of chipping fluid, I sprayed on the redish brown. All and all, I'm not entirely happy with it. I decided to use chipping fluid instead of liquid mask applied with a sponge. It's not bad, it's just not the finish I was aiming for. I guess it will be cool because the chipping on the skirt is going to be different than the hull, where I will be using liquid mask. The colors I used were Hull Red (XF-9) and Buff (XF-57) for the red, Pink (X-17) for the chipping, German Grey (XF-63) over Medium Grey (XF-20) for the grey panels, and Vallejo Model Air Tank Brown (71.041) for the brown panel. After this picture was taken, I managed to get a panel line wash on with MIG Dark Wash enamel. Once that is sealed in with some matte varnish, I'll move on to more weathering.
  19. Just had the heads up from Jimi at JPG Productions that he and Nicholas Sagan are close to finalising a 1:350 scale version of the EF76 B Escort Frigate which we know better as the Medical ship at the end of Empire Strikes Back and more recently in Rogue One. It will be about 36" long (about 90cm) and consist of about 100 parts. More info here. http://www.modelermagic.com/?p=89268 Cheers, Warren
  20. Hi all, Apologies if this has been posted before, but I just came across this quite amazing collection of old behind the scenes photos from the making of Episodes 4, 5 and 6. There are some really fabulous old-school modelling skills evident in some of these shots! http://www.vintag.es/2015/04/100-rare-color-photos-of-behind-scenes.html
  21. TIE Interceptor 181st Imperial Fighter Wing | Bandai 1/72 I did this kit as a nice sendoff build before I went on vacation for the week between Christmas and the New Year. It's painted as the personal TIE Interceptor of Commander of the 181st Imperial Fighter Wing, Soontir Fel. The red "bloodstripes" signify ten combat kills, something nearly every member of the elite 181st bore on their Interceptors. Since Soontir Fel is one of the greatest pilots in the Galaxy, his personal fighter has seen lots of action against the Rebellion (and New Republic), so I decided to give it a little bit of weathering. I painted the entire ship with Alclad metallics and used some liquid mask for chipping before giving the entire model a coat in a custom blue-grey I mixed up with a couple Tamiya paints. The wing panels were painted with a mix of Vallejo Model Air Black and Arctic Blue (metallic) to give them an iridescent shimmer. The red strip is just Tamiya Flat Red weathered in the same manner as the hull of the ship. The rest of the weathering was done with MIG Productions enamels. Comments and criticism is welcomed as always!
  22. I started this one in June of this year, but it went on the back-burner for a while for whatever reason (I can't honestly remember!), but after a bit of paint lifted off the P-40 I picked it up and started masking for the main camo... camo? pattern. Yeah - pattern. It's a snap-together kit that I detailed up with some styrene bits to closer resemble the filming miniature, and gave it the same scheme as close as I could. I also tinkered about with the details on the wings amongst other things, all of which had to be scratch-built. You can see the WIP here if you're bored Now to see if I can get the P-40 finished before the hammer falls on the year
  23. Hello all, This is my recently (ish, before Crimbo anyway) completed SD from Bandai. I've already chucked it up in my little Yearbook thing, but not everyone looks there and I do so love attention... Anyway, the model was undercoated in black then a mottled grey-white was built up with heavily thinned Tamiya flat white thinned with the God King of thinners, MLT. This was then finished off with a Neutral Grey enamel wash. Toodles, Paul
  24. Well folks here he is, finished at last. Some of you have read the WIP thread for this little fella which chronicled not my build, but the process of learning how to paint and weather a kit; this being my first build following a break of 35 years and realistically the first I have truly painted. The WIP thread can be found here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235011076-bandai-r2d2-and-bb8-newbie-wip/ Ultimately R2 is destined to be a bookend, but until I sort that part out, here is my finish painted model: A big thank you to Rockpopandchips, AndyRM101 and Oileanach for their technical help when it all went "Pete tong", but thanks to everyone else who watched and commented on my WIP with words of encouragement. I'm going to detail paint BB8 next and see if I can get away without using any of the transfers or stickers as I did with R2. thanks for looking, smeggy
  25. Had a look at my built but not competed BB8 today. I've started to add a pin wash but the little fella is so shiny that it's having trouble sticking so a rethink is required. I ended up thinning my paint and adding a drying inhibitor and then painting it on and carefully wiping it off, this seemed to fill some of the panel lines but not all; I also need to add 2 water slide decals that I simply could not hand paint. I also have no idea yet how I'm going to display him so I'm afraid BB8 is going into storage until I can decide that.
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