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  1. Just smashed out the cockpit last night. First Bandai kit, Primed in SMS Surfacer Black https://www.scalemodeller.com.au/products/primer-surfacer-black-50ml Painted the Canopy and front cluster in SMS Gunship Grey. I haven't decided if I'll use the clear or glass free canopy and hatch so I'm painting both https://www.scalemodeller.com.au/products/premium-gunship-grey-fs36118-30ml?_pos=2&_sid=abe991cfe&_ss=r Interior in SMS Neutral Grey https://www.scalemodeller.com.au/products/premium-neutral-grey-30ml?_pos=1&_sid=4de655062&_ss=r Painting Vader Head: SMS Jet Black Satin parts: SMS Advance Black Check switch panel thingy: SMS Advance Black with some Gunship Grey mixed in Eyes: SMS Clear Red over SMS Jet Black Belt Buckle: SMS Hyperchrome Pen Rest: SMS Surfacer Black primer SMS Interior Grey SMS Super Clear Tamiya Black Panel Line Wash Added SMS Super Clear Tamiya Panel Line Wash Photographed with better lighting than earlier pic Super Clear and Decals These decals aren't bad but they're definitely not Cartograph They're a faithful reproduction of the kit bashed original studio model so they don't quite fit the spaces and are real fiddley to work with. Starting to assemble cockpit base. Coin in the reference photos is an Australian 10c piece, this kit is TINY Detailed the back with SMS Hyperchrome pen and test fit Added some Tamiya Black Panel Line Wash for a little more contrast and gloss coated over the top. I left it glossy as limited light will get into the cockpit anyway so any extra sheen or reflection is going to make it that much more visible. The glass free piece has subtly more detail than the clear on the underside of the hatch. But with the hatch closed it'll never be seen.
  2. AAAAAAND we're back in a universe far far away and a long time ago.... A bloke on the bay had an old Airfix Battle of Hoth Diorama set which he sold as separate parts. I missed out on the walking AT-AT's, but got the damaged one for about seven quid. (inc post). Someone on Scalemates reckons it's about 1/150 scale BTW. What to do with it? Well it's not a bad representation but with the legs being solid and posed you can't stand it up. I know, lets chop off the legs and start again. Whose brilliant idea was that? Will it end in tears or cheers? We shall see. Luckily, I have this rather excellent book. (World of Books, I think. Less than a fiver!) It's full of detailed cutaways. Unglued, so disassembly didn't take long. See what I mean about the legs? All moulded in that position. So I fitted the circular cutter into the Dremel, made a strong cup of tea, took three brave pills, and voila! I counted my fingers afterwards and they all seem to still be there. Bonus. I hate that circular cutter! H & S? Ha! It should have a flat bottom to the main body onto which the Harrier engine* and leg supports fit. *What do you mean you didn't know that? The original concept used one from the 1/24th Airfix, doncha know. I wanted to keep these angled plates on the sides. They're not far off being correct. See those rounded bits where the legs fit on? You can just see the front of the Pegasus between them. How do you feel? Gutted, Guv! I added large tabs inside to make it stronger & cut a belly plate. No comment. At least it'll keep the water out when wading in the oggin. Here's another bay purchase. A small diorama base. Two pieces that clip together. They have the magic word Lucasfilm mouded into the underside. So far, the idea is for the AT-AT (I'm going to call it Spot) to be standing on here. I'll then do buildings or something industrial around it. This clone copy came with the ones above. I may or may not use it here. It's NOT marked Lucasfilm, BTW. And that is it so far. I had the day off work, so, after the chores, I enjoyed myself for a couple of hours. I hope you like what you see. Please don't get too excited if you are of a certain age, I'm not insured for medical stuff. As always, any questions, comments and bourbon biscuits can be sent to the usual address. Or Mrs Trellis in Wales. Thanks for looking, Pete.
  3. Hi all, I am calling this triple kit bash project Mando's next ride. This will be what you might call a 2nd generation Razor Crest. The main fuselage will be from the Apache air frame, with the Colonial Raptor cockpit grafted to the nose and the A10's Gatling gun attached underneath complete with the A10's nose cone. Skid landing gear will be used from the Raptor, but beefed up with the A10's metal landing legs. The idea is to give a sort of Alien Drop ship style look, but retaining some of the Razor Crest's original design DNA. I might add lighting to this ship if time allows. "This is the way!"
  4. These are finished at last. Real life kept getting in the way. As usual! See the WIP for the full build. I got a pair of part started 1/48th Hobbycraft Vampires from the Bay for a decent price. Bits were missing. What to do? Why not turn them into 1/32nd scale orbital fighters in the Star Wars universe? I just made it up as I went along. Both were two seaters. The oneon the right had a broken canopy. I took a page from early Meteors and built it as a Mk 1, with a metal rear to the 'greenhouse'. The paints are Citadel (Warhammer) as I wanted 'Alien' shades rather than bog standard Tamiya. Here the laser pod is underneath. Engines are printed and were very kindly donated by @TheBaron I've added a bit of detail and paint. The Vixen name comes from the source of the engines, they were for his wonderful 1/72nd printed Sea Vixen. Not meant for atmospheric flight you just need an engine & thrusters. Not tail booms. The yellow stripes? Alien flames, for that death or glory look! RH wingtip pod. Half an old missile with added bits. Yes, And a Harrier outrigger. In the Star Wars universe ships can hover indefinitely. But I've fitted a fixed central skid & the outriggers in case of 'wobbles'. Launched from an orbiting space station the skid could be jettisoned and the ship could 'skip' on top of the atmosphere. The Mk 2. Full length canopy. Slightly different markings. I just used odds & sods from decal boxes. The 'flames are intentionally rough, BTW. The green is Citadel Goblin green. The Vampire had a Goblin engine! Just sayin'. The Pilot is ex Phantom. Now from an unnamed race of humanoids, threatened by the evil Empire. The gear is just a push fit, so here's a close up. The skid was two halves from a wingfold, I think. My Citadel paint stock. Bought used from a car boot 4 or 5 years ago, they are still good to go, and odd shades. Another fun scratchbuild and I'm happy with the end results. They're certainly unique! Thanks for looking. Your comments are always welcome. Next? one word. Vanship! ×
  5. And the news for us Star Wars fans just keeps getting better and better! Now AMT is bringing out a 1/72nd scale Razor Quest from the Mandalorian TV show. No more word about it than this placard on display at WonderFest this weekend. So, Revell has already announced they're doing one in 1/72nd as well. And there's also the Bandai one - but that looks a very small kit from the imagery thus far. Is AMT's a reboxing of Revell's? Is Revell's just for the European market as was their Republic Gunship? In any event, a 1/72nd Razor Crest is hella cool! https://www.scalemates.com/kits/amt-razor-crest--1355671
  6. Hi all. This ship from the Star Wars saga first appeared in the Return of the Jedi movie. It appears very briefly, at the moment before the attack on the 2nd Death Star, spreading its wings to the combat position. It is a heavy fighter equipped with various types and powerful cannons and that was expected to have more prominence in the development of the final battle, but due to the thinness of its fuselage and wings, there were problems with the Chroma process during the post-production of the special effects and their scenes were removed. It also appears at the end of the last movie in the galactic saga but I have not managed to see it. This time I am going to start the model the cockpit, which I have painted with various gray tones of Vallejo MC except for the metallic part for which I have used Alclad Aluminum, having as a base color the Neutral Gray of this Vallejo. I have highlighted details using oil and used Vallejo matte varnish for the final finish of the instrument panels and satin varnish, also from Vallejo, for the metallic area. Andrés S.
  7. I picked up Revell's new Razor Crest a few days ago, and while I was originally planning on starting the build next year, after going through the sprues and seeing how much detail Revell had put into the kit (something that's not always the case with their Star Wars releases), I had to make a start on it straight away. I won't bother with any sprue shots here, but I posted some in the discussion section, and there's also Mike's review of the kit. You get a fairly comprehensive interior included, and the build starts with the cockpit and upper deck area. There's quite a bit of detail here, probably more than is neccesary in truth, although that's not a complaint, just an observation. The main floor panel is a full length plate that also forms the roof of the lower cargo deck. The front of this is divided into two sections by bulkhead panels, the front of these sections being the cockpit, and the rear one is the small vestibule?, foyer?, landing? where you access the upper deck from below. Two side panels close these sections off, then the cockpit is completed by the instrument panel which also forms the forward walls of the cockpit. The rear vestibule section is fully enclosed, and will only be visible through two tiny windows in the upper hull, and will more than likely be completely invisible on the finished build. I'm surprised that they didn't mould the dividing bulkhead with open doors, or supply two versions, one open and one closed. You could of course cut the doors open yourself if you want the rear compartment to be visible from the cockpit. Most of the detailing here is very accurate to the cockpit set used on the show including the panel pattern on the door and the box holding three lights imediately above it (Apologies for the dinginess of these screen grabs, they're the best I've got) Moving to the front of the cockpit, Revell have done a pretty good job at recreating the various controls and screens on the instrument panel, although a few things are understandably simplified. There are however a couple of odd omissions. The lefthand side console has some piping running along the top, and a short tube at the front edge, and these have both been reproduced, as have the row of three red lights although they're quite faint. The throttle-type lever behind the left display screen is there, but quite a flat moulding, so I may cut that off and replace it. The holo emitter above the screen is also present, but again quite flat compared to the real one. To the right of these should be the main centre console display, and that's one of the omissions I mentioned. Where it should sit there's a rectangular recess that looks as if something should go in it, but nothing is included or mentioned in the instructions. Not a real problem as I can scratch something to go there. The two big clunky looking things sticking out from behind where the centre console should be are representations of the control sticks. The real ones are two columns that extend from below the console and end with a square block onto which the joysticks are mounted. These too will be better of replaced with something a little more refined. Interesting trivia: it appears that, in the photo below, the centre console has been removed, probably to allow better access for the camera when filming the scene. The photo below shows the ends of the control columns and joysticks better, and also shows the other strange omission from the instrument panel. While the throttle controls on the left and right side console have been included, Revell haven't moulded the famous lever with the round knob that attracts Grogu's attention throughout the show. Given how well known that feature is, it's strange that Revell don't include it when they include details that most people wouldn't notice. Again, no problem though, as it can easily be added. Revell aren't the only ones to forget though, as in some scenes the control lever (not just the knob) is missing from the cockpit set. The seats are all well done with the two passenger seats being quite basic as they are on the show, while Mando's chair has a lot more detail. The bands on the headrests of the passenger seats represent the straps hung over the back of the seats. They do appear like this in the show, but they can also be seen in use, especially when they're strapping Grogu in place. I'll probably sand these off and replace them with some foil straps. The hole in the back of Din's seat will also need to be filled as I won't be using the included figure. Well, what about some actual modelling I hear you say. Well, yes, I have managed to do something other that look at reference pics, although not a great deal to be fair. I've removed the moulded detail from the tops of the side consoles, and this will be replaced with some wire and brass tubing. I've also made up a simple centre console from styrene sheet with a thinner piece of sheet added to represent the screen. The base for Grogu's lever has been added as well. Oh, and the control columns have been removed ready for some replacements. The two grab handles on the left hand screen are made from thin stretched sprue, and will probably get knocked off before I even get close to painting If you look back up the page at the screen shot with the missing lever, you can also see that there's a folded metal shroud over the top of the centre console, and I've made a simplifed representation of that from some styrene strip (barely visible in the photo below, sorry). A bit of brass tube has also been added to the holo emitter, although now I look at the screen shots, the emitter should be further to the left hand side of the console, so I'll probably re-do this. Okay, that's about it for now. I should get a little more done over the next couple of days. Andy
  8. Revell's new Razor Crest from the Star Wars TV show 'The Mandalorian'. The kit is definitely a step up from some of Revell's previous Star Wars releases, featuring some excellent detailing and a full interior. It's also nice that they've made it in a standard modelling scale rather than some random one as many of their earlier SW kits were. The only significant downside with the kit is the poor surface texturing across many of the parts, including some quite visible tooling marks in places. Much of that can be removed with a sanding stick and a little effort, but I'd have prefered it not to be there in the first place. Despite that, the kit builds up well and has excellent fit for the most part. A few areas can benefit from a little extra detailing and enhancement, but the end result is an accurate and fairy imposing replica of the Crest, especially if you can stand it next to it's natural stablemate - Slave 1. The full build can be found here Thanks for looking Andy
  9. Back in the saddle after completing the Sternail, so what to build? Well, I got this box of Hobbycraft Vampire bits from the bay. Almost two Aircraft, and I have boxes of greeblies. I thought of doing a star Wars build instead of Kreiger. What could possibly go wrong? Yes, 1/48th, but two seaters, and a 1/32nd figure fits nicely. One kit was sort of assembled and painted silver. But it soon fell apart. The other was still in bits. The silver one had a big hole drilled through top and bottom. I backed them with card and applied filler. I did the same with the nose wheel bays. These will be space fighters with an odd landing gear. And in close up. The rest of the bits. I've supplied the figures (ex Phantom I think) and, in the top left corner is a printed part. I have two of these. Sea Vixen engines courtesy of @The Baron who very kindly sent me some of his excess prints. The plan is to fit the Vixen engines in here (somehow). Exposed engines seem to be a Star wars thing. I also covered over the mainwheel bays as can be seen here. Hopefully I'll find time to do more very soon. Thanks for looking, Pete
  10. Millennium Falcon, Snowspeeder & T-70 X-Wing Junior Update Sets (2004, 2005 & 2006) 1:144, 1:48 & 1:72 GreenStrawberry Star Wars. Enough said? We all know the Bandai kits from this ground-breaking series of movies (we’re talking generally here – ignore any you don’t like). Not so very long ago, GreenStrawberry hit upon a cool idea that would appeal to a broader group of modellers, a simple pared-down set of Photo-Etch (PE) parts and accessories that can be used to improve on the detail of the base kits, which are pretty impressive to begin with, let’s be honest. You can always improve on injection moulded plastic with a little PE and some cleverness though, and these sets are just that. They’re smaller than their fully-featured siblings, and are useful as an introduction to PE wrangling, or in case you just want to put a little extra into your model without pushing the boat too far out. Each set arrives in a resealable clear foil bag with a black card that has the usual green/red branding, and a thick piece of card within to protect the goodies inside. The sets usually comprise one fret of PE, plus either printed acetate, stickers or paper, depending on what is appropriate to the set. The final part is the instruction sheet, which has step-by-step isometric instructions to guide you through the process, and is folded up to add even more protection to the package. 1:144 Millennium Falcon Junior Set (2004-1/144) Despite the small scale, the set is quite large, due to the inclusion of the mesh for the six vents on the rear deck, all of which are shown in a scrap diagram to ensure correct alignment of the mesh with the direction of motion. There is also a rear bulkhead for the cockpit, which is layered with a door and its padded surround from either side, and a set of stickers that when applied will allow light to filter through them and give the impression of the bright flashing bulkhead we know and love. There are similar panels for the side consoles, although these do not have corresponding holes to match the stickers. A simple control yoke is included to place in front of Han/Rey and Chewie. Nien Numb and Lando Calrissian have just spat their collective dummies. The crew ramp is backed up by a two-part assembly that prevents the see-through effect if anyone is looking up there with an endoscope, and a T-shaped part is also fixed to the exterior just next to the opening. The final parts for the interior are the gun controls for the twin cannons that Han & Luke had so much fun with in the original Star Wars movie. Externally, the seven sets of landing pads are upgraded with fine filigree ‘cuffs’ that are each single parts with four sections with pre-thinned joins that allow them to be folded and lightly curved to form the vertical parts of the cuffs. They slip over each strut before installation of the legs into the hull, and although there are two types of legs, there is only one type of cuff. 1:48 Snowspeeder (2005-1/48) The fret for this ship is slightly smaller than the Falcon set, and includes a sheet of clear acetate that is printed with various shapes for the instrument panels, allowing light to show through if you’re planning on lighting your model, and who doesn’t? A little removal of moulded-in detail is needed first, taking the dials off the instrument panel, the two pegs on the seat that retain the kit pilot figure, and the instrumentation on the rear gunner’s console in the centre of their control yoke. The front and rear seats are re-skinned with PE replacement roll padding, and four small parts are applied to the back-to-back bulkhead sides between the crew members. The main panel is fitted with a flat T-shaped part on the rear, and a laminated panel on the front that is made up from three acetate pieces and three PE parts over the top, ending with four layers on the outer areas. This is then glued in place on the recently blanked panel. The rear gunner’s station has a similar, smaller panel made up from two layers, then it also has a pair of grips installed underneath, folded and then laminated to give the handles some thickness. Externally, you have a choice of two styles of grille at the front under the windscreen, connecting hoses and coiled cables to the harpoon gun at the rear, as well as a twin-layer part glued into position vertically beneath the cylindrical barrel. The final part is another grill for the back of the intake that runs down the centre of the underside. 1:72 T-70 X-Wing (2006-1/72) This set includes a sheet of printed clear acetate as well as a fret of PE, and starts with a small panel fixed to the control column, augmented with a new triple faceted instrument panel that has a clear central section. The side consoles are also covered with new panels, and five additional parts are dotted around the rest of the interior. Externally, there are two crew ladders, one for the pilot that descends from a slot in the lower fuselage the plastic for which must be removed from the kit before proceeding, as per the accompanying diagram. The ladder is folded in two to give it additional thickness, and the treads are folded horizontally to better represent the steps, with a small folded part at the top representing the opened ladder door in the fuselage. The other ladder is a larger accessway for the ground crew onto the aft deck that houses the BB-8 unit or other Astromech, as appropriate. The ladder’s structure is etched as a single T-shaped part that is first folded perpendicular to the treads, then each tread is folded horizontally, and covered by cross-hatched plates, with another double lamination on the flat top where the mechanic would crouch attending to the droid. A guide rail is affixed to the left side of the ladder, then it can be placed behind the cockpit and a crewman sourced if you feel the need. GS have sets of 1:72 Star Wars figures too, so while you’re there… The last four parts are replacements for the nozzle detail within the exhausts, which are fixed in place after removal of the simplified moulded-in detail. They fit neatly against the rear of the nozzle parts before adding them to the rear of the engines. Conclusion Not everyone wants the full PE sets to adorn their model, and these sets take the most important and noticeable areas of your model and upgrade it in a relatively simple but effective manner, without too much taxing work with the PE bender. A decent pair of flat-bladed pliers would be sufficient if you’re not already tooled up for PE. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  11. This is a 1/6 scale bust of Boba Fett (as portrayed by Temuera Morrison) sculpted by Piotr Kupper (Corax Artifex). It was an exercise for skin painting and directional lighting, both things that I have been wanting to improve upon. Comments and criticism welcomed as always!
  12. It only took a few days of construction and painting to have a cheeky little table decoration. Bandai boxed the Death Star II with a Star Destroyer, originally I wanted to build the warship, but the superweapon got me. It can be put together in just half an hour, I haven't used glue anywhere. Sure, the joints could have been sealed here and there, but I didn’t deal with it. The base color is Tamiya XF-19 sky gray lightened with flat white. I painted the panels with artistic oil, as I could safely wash back on the acrylic base and repair it with thinner. The colors I used: Abteilung snow white + Rembrandt Payne gray. I hope you like it!
  13. This is JPG Production's 1/12 Viper Probe Droid, scaled to fit in with their previous Gonk and Chopper releases, as well as all the Bandai droids. It's a resin garage kit and, as such, is a little rough in places and some of the details are more approximations of the original than exact copies. I swapped the rather crudely formed arm actuators for metal tubing on mine and added some generic details to the arms and body. The ball sensors on the head were re-built using acrylic beads since the kit parts were rather poorly shaped, and the sensor lenses were removed and replaced with red and clear resin ones. It also features one of Warren's excellent lighting kits, available from Tirydium Models. Thanks for looking Andy
  14. I've taken a small delivery of Star Wars Bandai,/Revell Kits to test the water as I don't normally do Film, TV and SciFi. Feedback appreciated https://testvalleymodels.com/products/slave-1-gift-set-05678 https://testvalleymodels.com/products/boba-fetts-starship-06785 https://testvalleymodels.com/products/outland-tie-fighter-06782 https://testvalleymodels.com/products/death-star-star-desdtroyer https://testvalleymodels.com/products/razor-crest-06781
  15. Allow me to introduce NT7-S, a 1/12 scale GNK-series power droid from JPG Productions; painted with Tamiya, AK Real Color, and Vallejo paints; and weathered with 502 Abteilung oils and Ammo by Mig enamels. Comments and criticism welcomed as always!
  16. A-Wing StarFighter (01210) 1:72 Carrera Revell/Bandai The A-Wing was a minor character in the original (and best) Star Wars trilogy, appearing in the background in some of the large space battles. It has since gained a little more prominence in the new films and the cartoon spin-offs, which are numerous. It’s a small one-seater twin-engined ship manufactured (in a galaxy far far away) by Kuat Systems Engineering, and somehow finds its way into Rebel hands. Its speed and pivoting main cannons make it a useful tool that is suited for rapid interdiction and lightning strikes. The Kit This is a licensed reboxing by Revell of the excellent Bandai kit that was released in 2016, which was available only by personal import or from a grey-import box-shifter until now. This is the most minimalistic reboxing from Revell, with a sticker placed over a portion of the box showing Revell’s logo and their product code along with a few European-style descriptions of what it is – a self-assembly model kit. If you’re a Star Wars model builder, you probably know what to expect inside, and I’m one myself so I’ve already got one of the Bandai kits in my stash. Bandai have an incredible team of engineers creating their kits, who achieve amazing detail, simplicity and cleverness of construction, and skill of tooling the most stunning injection moulded kits around. They regularly inject several colours and types of styrene into one sprue with their kits that Western companies could only aspire to, which cuts down the sprue-count and makes for a less messy desk during the build. They’re also snap-together kits in essence, with pre-coloured parts that don’t require painting if you’re either a beginner, a child without the facilities or just don’t want to get the paint out. If you aren’t familiar with Bandai’s style of snap-together kits, you probably think that this renders them simplistic and toy-like. Get that mindset right out of your mind right now, as these kits couldn’t be further from that type of product. The box is pure Bandai with a black glossy surface to the top-opening box, with five sprues in cream; dull red, cream, black and clear; grey; black and finally clear red. Because the A-Wing is a compact fighter, you get the ship itself, plus a base with a Turbo-Laser Turret on a section to one side, which gives that frissant of Death Star to accompany your model. The decals are duplicated as stickers for the younger or less skilled builder, and the package is rounded off by the inclusion of a concertina-fold instruction booklet in colour. Originally, the instruction booklets were written almost completely in Japanese, but as time went on they have included more English, which is helpful to augment the visual instructions and icons that appear throughout the booklet. Construction begins with the A-Wing, which first has its cockpit made up from six highly detailed parts plus a decal or sticker (whenever I say decal, also think sticker from hereon in). The lower hull is next, adding inserts into the weapons mounts and their rear, after which the hull topside is clipped into place, with the cockpit dropped in from above. The red section of the topside is separate due to the self-coloured parts, with a separate spin behind the cockpit and the tapered apron toward the front. The spine has a three-part cream insert at the rear, then it clicks in place along with the apron into the upper hull around the cockpit tub, locking it in place. A similar red insert is fitted to the underside, and clear side panels smooth out the joint between top and bottom halves. The nose cone is red, as are two panels in the underside wings, and another red insert fits behind the tapered section under the hull. Flipping the hull over, a roll-over hoop is added to the rear of the cockpit, and a pilot figure with two small decals is popped into the seat before the clear canopy and a snap-on curved frame part. The engine nacelles project from the rear of the arrow-head hull, and have fins at an angle top and bottom of the exhausts. These have clear engine inserts with stoppers behind them for painting a fiery colour or lighting, and a two-part trunk is clipped to each side of the fins with a tiny part with two angled pipes/hoses coming out of the sides. At the rear are a pair of oval fairings with four more exhaust cups inside, the shape of which is akin to a pair of F-16 intakes, which given their kit-bashed heritage they very well could be just that. Having a second look, I seriously think they are! The twin ovals are attached to an insert with the four exhausts and are fitted together with the main engines and their fins, then are offered up to the rear of the hull to be clipped into place. The pivoting guns at the wingtips are each made up from three parts with hollow muzzles, then the three gear bay doors are clipped into place if you are depicting your A-Wing in flight on the stand, or in the open position with three two-part gear legs if you are putting it on the ground. There are plenty of diagrams to show you where the various parts should fit, so don’t concern yourself about making a mistake. That’s the A-Wing finished and now it’s time for the base and turret extension. The base has a greebly-filled surface to its single part, with an angular diagonal riser that has a jointed tip to allow the modeller to adjust the pose of their model at any time. The bases are able to be linked together by the included clips, which leads us nicely to the bonus Turbo-Laser turret that can clip onto the base, as its footprint is the exact same size as the base itself, and it also has the cut-outs for the clips. The tapering base is a single part, which is extended upward by another dual taper section that is made from four parts inserted into its flat top, and is joined by the turret at the top, which is three parts and builds up around the gun assembly. This begins with two hollow-tipped barrels that have toothed quadrants fitted on their outer edges and in between them, after which the barrels are raised to the vertical and bracketed by a two-part assembly that holds them in situ. The barrels are then returned to the horizontal and surrounded at the sides and on top by the turret shell. The turret clips into place on the top of the base, and can be rotated and elevated as you see fit – just so long as you enjoy playing with it Oh, and no, I couldn’t resist building the turret. Markings The kit is self-coloured, so technically you don’t need to paint a thing, but the back page of the instructions give you a six-view look at the model as per the box art, with colour and decal/sticker call-outs along the way. The pilot figure is also shown painted with the two tiny decals on the helmet, and there is some weathering that has been applied around the cockpit and the rest of the hull to give you an idea of what to aim for. There’s a lot of pictorial evidence out there for any other markings and schemes that you might wish to portray though, and we often see some adventurous schemes here on Britmodeller.com. Conclusion It was a gorgeous kit in 2016 when it came out, and it’s just as good now. If you’re a Star Wars modeller and want a well-detailed model of an A-Wing, this is the kit to get. Very highly recommended. Currently, Revell are unable to ship to the UK from their online shop due to recent changes in import regulations, but there are many shops stocking their products where you can pick up the kits either in the flesh or online. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  17. Well, after searching and searching for a suitable base I have chosen to use the support of a photo frame. If someone wants to see the process that I have followed in this model, they can do so at the following link. Andrés S.
  18. Hello all, This is my rendition of Bandai's 72nd scale T-70 x-wing painted in blue squadron markings as seen in Star Wars episode VII TFA. Overall this was a pretty fun build, there were some mishaps along the way, but I managed to finish it in the end, and am really pleased with the results. Here's the link to the WIP I did on it (this was my first wip, and I also think it turned out well): Here are the pics of the finished model: Hope you enjoy it! Oompa Loompa
  19. INCOM T-47 SNOWSPEEDER Bandai 1/48 (co-Starring Nigel the Mouse Droid) So, amazingly, this is Star Wars build number 5 so far this year. Amazing because I hadn't planned on doing any until I saw just how good the Bandai kits were. This will probably be the last one, at least for a while (I'm sure I said the same thing after the previous one). Most of you will know the details from the wip but for any who don't, it's all here I'll leave the photos to do the talking (Oh, and ignore the wonky gun, it's since been tweaked) Thanks for looking Andy
  20. Hello all, This is my first WIP, so I’m going to be learning as I go along; I chose to build Bandai’s lovely 1/72 T-70 X-wing, this isn’t my first x-wing (I’ve already built a T-65 in “Red 5” scheme) and this certainly won’t be my last as I’ve got 2 more in the stash. The kit itself is as good as any Bandai kit, which means that the detail is crisp, everything fits together without any glue needed, there isn’t any flash to be seen and the clear parts are beautifully moulded without any defects. I’ll be doing this ship in Blue Squadron scheme as seen during the attacks on Takodana and Starkiller Base in episode VII The Force Awakens. I have already cut off the cockpit parts which I painted in Ak real colors RC261 Neutral Grey, and I also cut out the pilot and droid which I proceeded to prime with Tamiya XF-2 flat white. Here are some sprue shots, I know this has been done before, but I thought it would be nice anyway.Note: I cut off the clear parts sprue section from the main sprue to avoid damaging the canopy. Box Art Instructions Bandai decals and stickers Sprue A with fuselage Clear parts sprue section, cut off from main sprue A Sprue B with s-foils Sprue C with silver coloured parts Sprue B2 with BB model droid Sprue with base for The Last Jedi version Sprue with base for The Force Awakens version Here's what I've done so far: The seat was painted with Tamiya XF-19 Sky Grey I don’t know how long I’ll take to finish this kit as I’ve got other projects going on, including a P-51D Mustang GB with my dad; I hope to finish before the end of the year but I doubt that will be possible. I will also try to take some comparison shots to show the difference between the T-65 and the T-70 x-wings using both Bandai kits and hopefully by next week I will have painted the cockpit, and maybe done some sub-assemblies.
  21. I have a thread over on The RPF, but I thought I'd start one here as well. Since Bandai never came out with a 1/48 Y-Wing, I have decided to make one on my own. I'm using my 3D printer (Elegoo Mars) to print these parts. The model is from CGTrader and I'm scaling it to the appropriate size, relative to the 1/48 X-Wing. So here we go! I'm going to use this thread to document my build. So here we go! Just pulled these two parts off the printer this morning. I waaaaaay overdid the supports on the canopy because it's a very delicate part, and because I didn't want it warping at all. Anyway. Follow along if you feel so inclined! SB
  22. Hi. I start another beautiful kit offered by Bandai for fans of the galactic saga of STAR WARS. Specifically the terrifying battle transport of the Empire called AT-AT. The general construction is advanced but until I have completed the cockpit I have not decided to start this post. I certainly believe that it has been a useless and stupid effort because even if you want to see something of what is inside, even using a flashlight, it is impossible. But as I paid for it, I decided that I had to do it. So here I show you: poorly painted, whith Vallejo MC, and worse photographed. I hope to put some progress soon as, as I say, the construction phase is advanced. Regards. Andrés.
  23. Hi all With this model I think I am going close a 12-month period in which I am going to finish 6. Something that I have never done. Although I have some models in process, I did not feel like continuing with them, so I looked at the Bandai boxes related to STAR WARS that I have in hiding and decided on this kit. What can I say about him that hasn't already been said? Gorgeous detail, gorgeous and finely detailed pieces and a perfect fit. A candy. The construction is already quite advanced and I decided to start this post because I think I will not stop its assembly. Of its assembly I can say that it has been a suffering due to the fact that the arrangement of the different pieces has been chaotic in sprues. If you had to build a leg you had to take a piece from sprue C1, another from sprue C2, another from sprue A and two other pieces from sprue B (it is an example, it has not literally been like this). Something that has been very heavy. Well, the cockpit. I have painted it entirely using Vallejo MC paints. Andrés S. Hi everyone.
  24. Hi all and here's my first finish for 2022, Bandai's 1/72 Poe's T-70 X-Wing from Ep. 7 The Force Awakens. I'm going to try and build more Star Wars stuff this year. Not much of a build thread as it went together so quickly! The fit of the parts is a joy and I only used glue in a couple of places. You could build and decal this straight from the box and have a lovely kit on your shelf. But I decided to repaint the orange markings with a custom Tamiya mix of red, orange & yellow. The hull was painted Tamiya XF-69 Nato Black My first time weathering with a liquid mask and I learned a lot - will do better next time. Rest of the weathering was a Flory Models wash and some oil streaking. Most of the kit decals were used. Thanks for looking and happy modelling. All the best, Dermot
  25. Hi all and happy new year - hope you had a safe and happy Christmas with a few models under the tree. Here's my year in builds; not as many as I had hoped to finish but when I look back, lots of colour! All in 1/72 unless noted. First up was Revell's 1:58 Easy Kit Resistance A-Wing repainted in Blue Squadron scheme (it was the Red boxing) Next was the Airfix (old issue) B-25J in 'Psychedelic Monster' scheme for the Unarmed GB here on the Forum. Followed by an equally old Airfix Mk1 Spitfire in fictional scheme from the 'Battle of Britain' movie Next was the Revell F-16C in Hellenic Zeus II Demo scheme for the STGB here. That was followed by the DreamModel AS-565 Panther in anniversary scheme for the French Fancy II GB More colour! Next was the Hasegawa F-14 in Blue Aggressor markings for the Tomcat STGB Hasegawa_F-14_Tomcat_1_72_NSAWC_done (3) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Another Tomcat but this time an Egg version for the KUTA GB And last one was a teeny, tiny Trumpeter Swedish Strv 103c S-tank for Ragnar's Return GB And that's it! Thanks for looking and all your words of encouragement and support through 2021 - it really is appreciated. For 2022, more Star Wars models to scratch that itch! Stay safe and happy modelling. Dermot
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