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SpPz 2 Luchs (03321) 1:35 Revell The Luchs, which means Lynx in English is an 8-wheel drive amphibious armoured car that was used by the German Bundeswehr from the 60s up until 2009 after a mid-life upgrade to the original. Over 400 were produced, and much like the WWII-era armoured reconnaissance Sd.Kfz.231 series, it also had a rear-facing seat for escaping from tricky dead-ends, and had a small turret on the top deck, which in this case mounted a 20mm Rheinmettall cannon, and although originally developed and constructed by Daimler-Benz, they were subsequently bought out by Rheinmettall, so it was eventually brought back into the same family. The Luchs was fast over metalled (tarmac) roads, and at speeds over 50kmh all axles were steerable, which must have been slightly disconcerting if you weren’t expecting it. The wheels wore low-pressure tyres for grip on unprepared terrain, and if they were shot-out in a firefight, they could run flat for a period to ensure they could get out of harm’s way at maximum speed. The gun is similar to that mounted on the Marder, and also shared its ammo with the Wiesel for economy of scale and ammo availability, a cannon that is accurate out to a maximum range of 2km, firing between 800-1000 rounds per minute in ideal and somewhat unrealistic situations. Even before retirement, it was being phased out by its replacement after the turn of the millennium, by the Leichter Gepanzerter Spähwagen (LGS) Fennec, named after a type of desert fox. The Kit This is a reboxing of a 1998 release, with newly refreshed decals and sprues in a different colour. The major difference however is the inclusion of a 3D “puzzle” diorama base of a Military Training Area that is included in the box. The kit arrives in a deep end-opening box, with two sprues of grey styrene, another in black, a small clear sprue, eight flexible black plastic tyres, a decal sheet, a length of wire taped to the front of the instruction booklet and the afore-mentioned diorama base, printed on foamboard. While this is a tooling that is now just over 20 years old, the detail is still pretty good, although there are some faint sink-marks here and there that are best dealt with before you begin putting it together. I’m not sure why the running-gear sprue was moulded in black, but that could be to appeal to the younger modeller that might not want to paint all the details under the hull. The inclusion of the 3D base also hints at that, but it’s quite nicely printed with fake wooden sides to enhance the effect. Construction begins with the two hull halves joined together along with the aft bulkhead, then the four suspension mounts with springs each end are fixed to the lower hull. The four axles are then built up with their steering mechanism and hubs, and they too are fitted onto the spring pairs, assisted by an arrow pointing toward the front of the hull, which is helpful due to the similar look to the underside at both ends. After installing the last of the linkages, there is a large diagram of the underside showing how everything should look once complete, and again the directional arrows make an appearance. The wheels are slipped over the rear parts of the hubs, then are trapped in place by the front side of the hub, with eight of them in total. At the rear are a pair of water-drive screws on a pivot, allowing them to be mounted facing forward for stowage on land, or backward if in use for amphibious operation. Under the front are a pair of headlamps with clear lenses and cages, plus two towing hooks and a central numberplate, with two large fenders over the front wheels, three aerial bases at the rear, and the bow-wash deflector panel at the front, which can be fitted stowed or extended, again for amphibious use. Side mirrors and flashing beacons are added on the glacis plate at the front, and at the rear a single reversing lamp with clear lens, plus two light clusters, tow hooks and rear number plate are glued in place. You have a choice of using some of the supplied wire or stretching some sprue by following the instructions, depending on whether you want to skewer the eyeballs of anyone looking closely at your work. Having used carbon-fibre for antennae before, that’s a real issue, and a wee bit dangerous. To finish the hull, a scattering of pioneer tools festoon the sides; a pair of driver hatches fit over the openings in either end; some grab rails and folded tarpaulins are added to the engine deck; a side hatch is put in position between the paired wheels, and a coiled towing cable is placed on the front deck. The gun is the first aspect of the turret to be built-up, and here you have a choice of barrels for your 20mm autocannon, with a cylindrical or flared flash-hider, either of which slot into the mantlet and its top cover. That assembly is trapped between the top and bottom halves of the turret, which give you the opportunity to leave the barrel able to elevate. Crew hatches; vision blocks and sighting gear plus an MG3 machine gun mount on the commander’s cupola; smoke grenade launchers; night vision system and another flasher on a pole on the rear of the turret are mounted to finish it off. The turret slots into place on a bayonet fitting, so won’t be dropping off if you check out the underpinnings later on. Markings There are four options on the decal sheet from various parts of the type’s service life, with lots of green and NATO camouflage in evidence. From the box you can build one of the following: SpPz 2 Luchs A1, 4. Kompanie Panzeraufklärungsbataillon 2, Hessisch Lichtenau, 1980/1985 SpPz 2 Luchs A2, Brigadespähzug 12, Übung Royal Sword, 1990 SpPz 2 Luchs A2, Panzeraufklärungskompanie 120, Mazedonien, 1999 SpPz 2 Luchs A2, Multinationale Brigade Süd, KFOR, Kosovo, 2000 Decals are printed for Revell by Italian company Zanetti, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Diorama Base Supplied on three folded A3 sheets of foam board with glossy colour printing on both sides, the parts just push out from the backing, and slot together with slots and tabs, staying there thanks to friction and the squishy foam. The base comprises two layers with a pair of supports running across the middle to prevent sag, and there are three piles of rubble that stand up, plus a large piece of a ruined building at the rear, as can be seen in the corner of the box top as well as below. Conclusion A welcome re-release of an older kit that still has plenty going for it, with the added bonus of a surprisingly nice diorama base. Recommended. Currently, Revell are unable to ship to the UK from their online shop due to recent changes in import regulations, but there are many shops stocking their products where you can pick up the kits either in the flesh or online. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or