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  1. Hi Here is my recently completed Tamiya M4A3 with improvised armour. It was painted with Tamiya and Life Color acrylics and weathered with oils and pigments. Scratch items: Timber armour - popsicle sticks Steel plate armour - .5mm styrene sheet, styrene rod (weld seams) and nuts/bolts from spares box. Tarp - lead foil from wine bottle Nails welded to hatches - stretched sprue (cut to scale at 4mm lengths) Cast steel texture - Tamiya putty mixed with extra thin cement Thanks for looking - Cheers, Greg History taken from <https://tanks-encyclopedia.com/ww2-usa-improvised-armor-on-m4-shermans-in-the-pto> "In the Island hopping campaigns of the War in the Pacific, the major threat to tanks of the United States Marine Corps (USMC) was Japanese infantry. The stubborn island defenders had various grenades and mines at their disposal. These were often used in suicidal point blank ‘Kamikaze’ style attacks with infantry charging the American tanks armed only with an explosive device. The attackers would also climb aboard the tanks and claw open hatches so they could throw grenades and explosives inside. By the Okinawa campaign of 1945, the tactics of the Japanese had been identified. Come May of that year, it was determined that at least 64 tanks had been knocked out by infantry & mine attacks. Men of the United States Army’s 193rd Tank Battalion recorded the attack method as such: “Japanese squads of three-to-nine men attacked individual tanks. Each man in the squad filled a role. One man threw smoke grenades to blind a targeted tank. The next man threw fragmentation grenades to force the tank’s crew to close their hatches. Another man placed a mine on the tank’s track to immobilize it. A final man placed a mine or explosive charge directly on the tank to attempt to destroy the tank.” These direct, ferocious and desperate assaults led to a number of unique improvisations in appliqué armor by the USMC. The US Army would also employ these improvisations as more troops and tanks from this branch were deployed to the Pacific."
  2. Hope nobody minds this post ...you have all seen this before, i was so happy with the Jagdtiger and the small base i did for it i decided to do the same for the Orphan...this is the result.
  3. Hi everyone, first time poster here. This is my 1:35 Super Sherman from Tamiya. Done with Testors olive drab, weathered with an acrylic wash and Tamiya pigments.
  4. Resin Tracks for Churchill and M4 Sherman Tanks 1:72 OKB Grigorov In this review we're looking at a couple of sets of OKB Grigorov's resin replacement tracks. As with the Panther turrets we reviewed a while ago, these don't appear to be intended for a particular base kit, so it'll be up to you to pick the appropriate model and address any fit and finish issues you find. The two sets we have here are both intended for tanks used by the Allies. The Churchill tracks represent the heavy cast steel variant, while the M4 Sherman tracks have added grousers (or cleats) for improved traction over rough surfaces. The tracks are well made, with sharp details and no flaws that I could see. Once removed from the pouring stubs, the tracks are fairly flexible but would probably still benefit from being warmed in hot water prior to fitting in order to improve flexibility. Tracks for M4 family, T51 with grousers Tracks for Churchill Tank, Heavy Cast Steel Conclusion I can't really fault either of these items from OKB Grigorov. The quality of production is very high indeed and they will provide additional options for modellers wanted to add detail to their small scale tanks. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  5. M4A3E2 Jumbo US Assault Tank (TS-045) 1:35 Meng Model The Sherman tank is familiar to most armour modellers, and as such needs little introduction. It bears a familial resemblance to the M3 Lee/Grant, especially from the waist down, but the new upper hull and turret did a lot to fix the shortcomings of the earlier tank, although it was by no means perfect. Its main armament was good enough when it entered service, but became a little underwhelming toward the end of the war, as was her armour, which although sloped in places couldn’t resist the high velocity rounds from the Panther or Tiger tanks. Her most appealing feature was that they were easy and cheap to build, so there were a lot of them available both to US forces, the British Army, and other combatants of WWII via the lend/lease programme. The M4 progressed through subvariants as improvements were made with changes to the construction, armament, suspension and armour, which can be confusing to the uninitiated. By the time the M4A3 was in service the tank had matured, reverting to a welded hull and replacing the bulky radial engine with a V-8 lump manufactured by Ford. The main armament was upgraded to the more armour-focused M1 long barrelled high-velocity gun, which was more capable of penetrating the thicker armour of the later German tanks, especially if using the High-Velocity Armour Piercing (HVAP) round that could punch through almost 180mm of rolled-steel armour at 1km. Another change made with some of the M4s was the addition of wet ammo storage that reduced the risk of a tank “brewing up” when hit by enemy fire, a reputation that had resulted in the cruel nickname of "Tommy Cooker" by the Germans. The variants with this useful safety addition were suffixed with the letter W. In an effort to reduce losses in frontal assaults, the M4A3E2 variant was upgraded with an additional inch of cast frontal armour protecting the running-gear low down, and a thicker 4” upper glacis plate with an extra 1.5” welded to the sides, plus an over-thick mantlet with a 75mm gun (sometimes replaced with a 76mm) mounted on a vertical-sided cast turret. It gained the nickname “Jumbo”, probably because of the mantlet or its weight, which made it slower than a standard M4A3, but it remained popular with crews and generals alike for its ability to take punishment and remain operational. The Kit This is a revised tool from Meng adding a new sprue, hull and turret, and in their usual style it is a highly detailed kit. It arrives in a satin themed box with a painting of a distempered machine parked up near another Sherman in the background. Inside are twelve sprues in sand coloured styrene plus four larger parts off sprues, two clear sprues, a small box of springs, a coil of wire, a tiny bag of pre-cut track-pins, a fret of Photo-Etch (PE) brass, a turned aluminium barrel, two trees of poly-caps and decal sheet, with the instruction booklet found at the bottom of the box, and a set of rubberband tracks. This is an exterior kit with only breech, periscopes and some hatch details included inside. There is a hint of a possible interior set in the future by the inclusion of a detailed firewall between the crew compartment and engine compartment, although at time of writing that’s still just speculation on my part. Construction begins the same way as the earlier boxing, with a few steps re-ordered for some reason. The suspension units and twin-wheel bogies are made up, which includes one of my favourite parts of the kit because of the springs – yes, I’m still impressed. To the top of the swing-arms you add these springs, which can be found inside a small box that also has some ration boxes printed on it, all safely cocooned in foam. They’re real springs too, made from spring steel and compressible just like the real Vertical Volute Suspension System (VVSS), so your Sherman will have working suspension as long as you obey the little “don’t glue” icons along the way. Each wheel is made up from a front part with moulded-in tyre and a rear part, which once added is trapped between the two axle-halves. A pair of wheels and their axles are inserted into the bottom of the suspension unit with the springs and their swing-arms inserted into the top section, which is closed up after adding the return roller then joined by a return skid that has some slide-moulded rivets moulded into it. You make three of these units up for each side and then set them aside while the hull is built up from main lower plus front drive housing and rear bulkhead, with final drive housings and poly-caps added to the sides at the front and idler mounts at the rear along with towing eyes. At the rear the radiator vents are stacked up into a matrix and held together with their end-caps before being fitted under the rear valance with the two curved exhaust pipes. The suspension units are all added on their mounts and the drive sprockets are pushed into the final drive housings, held in place by the aforementioned poly-caps, with more added to the idler wheels before they are fitted. The tracks are styrene, and made up from four parts per link, held together with short pre-cut lengths of nickel-plated wire that’s in a small bag in the box. A clear two-part jig is included that holds up to 10 links, and although you’re not advised on how to put them in the jig, I found that putting the track ends into their recesses first and then laying the pads between them was the easiest way. I also taped the jig closed before I tried adding the pins. The pins go straight through, and a dot of super glue (CA) into the ends helps to hold the pin in place, then I did the same on the other side. The result is an incredibly flexible set of tracks that will look great under a coat of paint. They take some time to clean up because of the part count, but it’s really worth the effort. Each link is four parts as mentioned, and there are 10 sprue gates per link in total. The pad links are easy to clean as they are flat, but the three on each horn have to be cleaned up carefully to preserve the detail. It’s still worth the effort though, and I can’t stop playing with the section I made up. There are 78 links per track run, and you are advised to make them up and fit them over the tracks, using the adjustment capability of the idler axle to get the correct tension, then glue little parts in place to wedge the tensioner in place. Those that are phobic of individual links will be pleased to find a set of flexible rubberband-style tracks in the box, although these aren’t documented in the instructions. Tensioning them in the same manner as the individual links will allow you to obtain a more accurate sag to them. The up-armoured upper hull is next, and begins with the drilling out of a few flashed-over holes depending on which decal option you have elected to portray. The main upper hull is fitted out with the additional armour panels to front and sides, which all have a crisp weld-line along the edges, then is prepped with hatch hinges, a movable bow machine gun, and engine deck comprising one main C-shaped part and a choice of two inserts depending on your decal choice. This is dropped onto the hull with the engine bay bulkhead supporting the centre section, then the front is detailed with lifting eyes, small fenders, hatches with detailed periscope. The rear cages are either made up from PE or plastic parts, so if the PE sounds daunting, rather than using the plastic parts, Meng have provided a multi-section jig that you can use to obtain the correct curve and shape, but it would be advisable to anneal them in a lighter flame for a few second first to soften them up. The remainder of the engine deck is made up from left and right pyramidal sections that drop into the space left on the deck with little grab-handles for mechanics to remove them for maintenance. At the rear the bulkhead is fitted out with two rows of three spare track links, rear lights with PE cages that are formed on the jig as already mentioned, barrel cleaning tools, pioneer tools, spare fuel cans and larger rear mudflaps. A rack is made and attached to the rear and is filled with additional fuel containers, probably to make up for the extra thirst of the engine that was coping with the weight of the additional armour. Along the edges of the tracks you have to apply (usually) winter-weather track grousers that give it extra traction in muddy conditions and to counter the extra weight, helping to decrease ground-pressure. There is one for each track link, and as they project further than the side skirts would, which weren’t fitted due to the side armour panels. The towing cable is also made up from the braided cable supplied with the length printed on the page, and two styrene eyes, one for each end. On the glacis plate a four-piece bow-wave board is attached between the fenders, with a large British-style ammo box resting on it for one option. Now for the turret, which begins with a pretty good rendition of the breech, with recoil mechanism, co-ax machine gun, breech guard and mounting gear attached to the back of the mantlet. A clear periscope is fitted to the roof, and the lower turret and turret ring are attached to the slab-sided top, along with pivot pins for the mantlet, which don’t need gluing. The blocky mantlet is fixed to the rear part, which has its lifting-eye “ears” removed from the top corners and moved to the sides using new parts, then being fitted to the pivoting part inside the turret. The commander’s cupola with clear vision blocks inserted from below, plus the gunner’s hatch with clam-shell doors are both made up with clear periscopes and inserted into the turret roof along with various lifting eyes, search lights, aerial bases (straight and tied back), vents and other detail parts. The turret’s casting texture is well depicted, and in addition Meng have supplied casting numbers in PE to apply to the turret depending on which decal option you have chosen. At the rear of the bustle, an M2 Anti-Aircraft .50cal with hollow muzzle is provided that can be pintle-mounted on the gunner’s hatch, or stowed across the back of the turret along with a spare barrel. The final task is to attach the barrel of the main gun, with the option of a longer, plastic barrel or a shorter turned aluminium one in the box, depending on which decal options you are making. The turret is then twisted into place on the hull, thereby completing the build. It doesn’t use a standard bayonet lug system, but has three sloped lugs that snap into place on the turret ring. How often you can remove and install it again without it fatiguing is a question I still can’t answer at this stage, so take care. Markings There are four decal options in the box, and all of them predictably are based on an olive green finish and they all have some camouflage added on top to give them some individuality, which should make for some fun-looking models. From the box you can build one of the following: 37th Tank Battalion 4th Armoured Division, US Army, Battle of the Bulge, Bastogne, Belgium, Dec 1944. 69th Tank Battalion, 6th Armoured Division, US Army, Mar 1945. 2nd Squadron, 2nd African Hunter Regiment, 5th Armoured Division, Free France, Summer-Autumn 1944, France. 15th Tank Battalion, 6th Armoured Division, US Army, Germany, Spring 1945 (OSF Turret, 76mm gun). Decals are printed in China and have good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion I’m still impressed with the springs, but when you add in all the detail and the subtle casting/rolling texture to the exterior of the hull, the extra-armour, the PE light cages, the turned barrel and those funky tracks, it makes for an impressive package. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  6. Hi All Started this while letting the Comet varnish harden, very impressive good mouldings no flash, Just one small part missing rear towing lug. did not take too long to get this far which surprised me, when assembling suspension don’t follow the instructions fully, after the first part you have to then prise the bottom open to get the wheels in, I struggle with CA on the Pe parts get it everywhere!, bit of work needed to get the bogies to fit to hull it’s very tight. missing lug on right, I made a handle for the rear doors as I broke it, and the lump with the pe was not very clear how it mounted. cheers Mark getting the bug big time lol 😂
  7. This is my M4A3E8 SHERMAN "Easy Eight" from Tamiya - is my second scale model and first tank I made. On it I tested different primers (as on previous model had some issue). Kit went nice even for a begginer like me. Those are general pictures - can add more detailed ones later if necesary
  8. Kit - Tamiya. Paint - Mig acrylics (OD Modulation set), Tamiya acrylics & enamels, Humbrol enamels. Decals - Star 35-C-1048 M4A3E8's, 6th Armoured Division Extras - Legend 'Fury' stowage, Verlinden M4 Stowage, various Tamiya, Historex & Italeri pieces. M4A3E8 Sherman 68th Tank Bt. 6th Armd Div. Near Leipzig, Germany. May 1945 Started in September 2018 after a good friend realised he just wouldn't be able to 'do it justice', he also included the Legend resin stowage set - which is vast, I put it to one side in early 2019 to start another project and then lost the enthusiasm. So after spending most of last year on the 'Shelf of Forgetfulness' I brought it back to the bench in November, and have grabbed a few sessions here and there since then. This was the first time I'd used Mig acrylics - the full OD modulation set, also included by my friend - not surprisingly I was VERY nervous about this entirely new (to me) way of painting an AFV, but by watching a number of excellent YT tutorials and having a new bottle of 'brave pills' to hand I simply tried it and... well I think I got lucky, first time out. After the decalling I simply weathered and faded the model in the usual way with a pin wash, overall washes, oil-dot filter and finally pigments (ughhhh). Used another 'new' product for the final matt coat - Migs' Ultra Matt 'Lucky' Varnish (A.Mig 2050). Really scary when I tested it on the underside, as it immediately went-on 'milky', but after ten mins it dried so matt, that light simply falls into it - nil reflectivity, bl**dy marvelous stuff but only apply in VERY light mist coats. One of Tamiya's very best and an utter joy to build. Won't be to everyones' taste and definitely will upset some Shermaholics I'm sure. No matter please feel free to ask any questions, make any comments or pass-along any criticisms. Best from NZ. Ian.
  9. Spotted this one on Fcebook this morning, for December release apparently:
  10. Can anyone tell me how many holes there are on the adapter used to fit the british all round vision cupola to the sherman turret? My best guess is 16, but it is difficult to tell from the single photograph that I can find!
  11. I've got a load of US Shermans to paint for the Flames of War game and just want to check what Olive Drab base colour to use. I remember building the Tamiya 1/35 M4 Sherman kit when it came out in the 90's (nice kit too!) and I'm sure it quoted AS06 (spray paint) Olive Drab. I've ran this through the Ultimate Paint Conversion Chart and the closest match in Vallejo (which is what I mostly use) is Brown Violet (RLM81 in the Model Air range). Now Brown Violet or RLM81, does look similar to Tamiya's AS06 if I remember right. What do other people think about US army olive Drab in WW2? thanks Mike
  12. With the varnish still drying, I'm calling this one done and photographing it. Aerials need to be fitted and, rather distressingly, I appear to have lost a small part that fits on the rear of the commander's hatch This is Dragon's Sherman Firefly 1c. I've had it in my stash for years, always meaning to build it , but put off by the individual track links. I haven't the patience to put them together, and bought AFV club's T62 Track for M4 VVSS. No idea if it correct for this Sherman, but I wasn't about to put those links together. Having bought the tracks, I put them somewhere 'safe', which meant I 'lost' them, then 'found' them, only to 'lose' them again as I didn't have time to build the tank. Roll of a few repeat iterations and years, and I finally manage to get both together, start the build, then stop the build for house improvements i.e. double glazing and replacement kitchen. I finally get up the gumption to restart the build, got to the point of painting it olive drab, only I discovered I had sprayed faded olive drab - a sort of sand. Back the tank went to the shelf of doom as I figured what to do. I normally do aircraft, and turn to tanks when I get fed up with the rigours of getting perfect finishes on planes. However, my tanks are usually completed as fresh out of the factory i.e. a simple paint job, with no weathering. I finally worked up the enthusiasm to get going on this tank again, and decided to spread some sort of dark green over it in a desperate attempt to make it look sun faded. Basically I sprayed a little, brush painted a little, dry brushed a little, splashed it all over a little, and relied heavily on transparent burnt sienna and burnt umber for the rusty bits. I don't really have a clue what I am doing, as I normally go for a pristine finish. After about a half a day elapsed time of faffing around like this, I'd had enough and decided it was time to fit the AFV tracks. First a clean with soapy water. Then a coat of Halfords Flexible Vinyl spray. I find it is gives a good base for paints. However, when dry fitting the tracks I noticed they looked a little tight...too tight in fact to fit the tracks. Undaunted I simply stretched the tracks, and soon one began to fit better, and then the other one snapped in half! The air turned blue for several minutes. In the end, I worked out a plan. Stick the broken track together with the overlapping joint provided by AFV. I used superglue, rather than the technique of applying a hot screwdriver to melt the nibs on the joint. Then I offered the track up to the tank, ensuring the broken end met over a lower wheel. The track was then stuck to the road wheels with copious quantities of super glue. I wasn't really enamoured by the Dragon kit. Attachment points seemed vague to non-existent, while the front sprockets wouldn't fit; needing a bit of hacking. It also seemed over engineered. You can see part of the problem with the left front track. It looks splayed, much Wall-E when he got squished. You might also note a little raised bit in the middle of the right track. There were a few other areas which caused me much lip pursing. I like my old, simple Tamiya tank kits. I sort of painted the yellow triangle, but tried to make it look as is this was a tank that had gone through quite a bit, with the crew having to repair and paint bits. I didn't bother with unit markings. Quite a few photos I see of Fireflies show no unit markings; either deliberate or simply hidden under much grime. Also, it occurred to me that if you were in Panther or Tiger country, the last thing you need is a nice bright, colourful unit insignia to make it easier to spot you. Alternatively, I could have loaded up the tank with all sorts of equipment, and thus neatly hide any unit markings. I was too lazy to do so. I have another, exciting, tank to be getting on with. I photographed the tank in the garden in full sun. In many ways this was a mistake. The sun tended to remove contrast and sort of bleach out the colours. The faded tops and sides do not look as sandy as on the model, and the green I splashed about is simply not green enough. Sigh. Better efforts required next time. Just for the record. My camera/lens combo is a Canon 800D with a Sigma 150-600mm contemporary. I simply stood about 3m (10 feet) away from the tank, zoomed in, and photographed it. I had a minimal field of depth. It seems to work, and provides a nice hazy background. I was too lazy to switch lenses. The overhead shots were obtained by me leaning out of the first floor bedroom window. 🙂 🙂 🙂 Glad none of the neighbours were about. I shall now take my next, continued build, from the shelf of doom. A King Tiger (Late). I have the turret built, but that's about it. I will complete this one, before tackling a Tortoise and then Crocodile. Angus
  13. It`s an old Tamiya kit with Aber`s muzzle and Eduard`s PE set. Painted with Tamiya, Mr.Color, weathered with Mig`s stuff mostly. My first AFV model and I`m sure not the last - It`s been sooo much fun. I hope Sherman purists will spare me for all the mistakes I`ve made. The commander`s figure will be repainted - I`m not happy with the result. I`m also planning to make a base for it.
  14. Hi, This is a 1:35 model I finished 2 month ago, the Sherman M4A3E8. This is Tamiya KIT no. 35346. I made it as movable model and also all hatches are openable (the film about how can it ride is at the bottom). Additional parts are the Friulmodel tracks, small accessories and decals. Constructive criticism is encouraged. To dispel doubts - darker areas on the hull are the camo and not a failure of painting
  15. Hello all. Today i want to show my old project, this model build during 11 years (start 2003 end of 2014). In model i used add parts: Aber PE set & Bronco track link set. Best regards. Michael.
  16. Hi all, While I'm usually a wings and rotors man, I decided to try my hand at an armour kit for the M3 M4 Medium Tank GB here. So to ease myself into it, I went for one of the Meng Toon tanks - very small kit so here's a link to the very small build thread ! And if that wasn't enough modelling heresy, I finished it as an Oddball Sherman from Kelly's Heroes. (well, with my own surname being Moriarty, I guess I had to!) I suppose you could call it a What-the? kit of a What-if Sherman.. First time i've tried weathering a tank and mostly homemade bits for the stowage/loudspeaker/gun tube. The crewman is from Tamiya, donated by a fellow modeller. Meng M4A1 Toon Oddball_Sherman_Done by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Meng M4A1 Toon Oddball_Sherman_Done (7) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Meng M4A1 Toon Oddball_Sherman_Done (5) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Meng M4A1 Toon Oddball_Sherman_Done (4) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Meng M4A1 Toon Oddball_Sherman_Done (8) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Will finish a small base for it shortly too. Thanks for looking and comments welcomed. Woof woof! Dermot
  17. M4A1 SHERMAN 1/35 ITALERI Hi Pals, here is the Sherman for the occasion, finally finished, not exactly as I thought at first, but IMHO, it's not bad at all .... As I mentioned in the thread of the GB, I had problems with the choice of what the kit would look like, first, U.S. Army of choice of Italeri, then U.S. Winter Camo, and finally something with a British accent ... more or less with the resources that were available ... What to say about the tracks, the ones that the kit brought, when they were already fixed and painted, ended up collapsing ... damn ... fortunately, I had the others from the same kit that I did about 1 century ago (I really did them in the last century ... lol), and interestingly they had better quality than the most recent ... "Twilight Zone ....". Some shots in detail... Some shots closer... Thanks for watch and comment as always, cheers mates
  18. HI Pals, Now I have an interval of time and I'm going to start with the Sherman kit I have for Britmodeller's GB. It's all about an oldie, the M4A1 at 1/35 of Italeri. I had it stored in a closet about 15 years ago, and I did not buy it at the time, it came as a gift for deliveries in a collection of Osprey house books on armored vehicles. It's not my favorite Sherman, because it combines cast iron hull with 76mm long cannon, for my taste, hull with straight sides and short barrel, it attracts me more, but at the moment it is what I have available (I should not buy more kits until I do site ... lol). For the time that this kit has, it is not so bad, it includes a lot of detail, although the tracks will surely give me problems, because I have already finished other kits "brothers", and have almost always ended up breaking, because the plastic must be bad for the passage of time. I think I can get a decent result at least, although from what I've seen a little, there are already many models started (some finished), and the average level is very high. I hope to hurry, because there is less time ... Cheers mates
  19. So after getting the ok from the Sarge (thank you), I'm in with this one.. Meng M4A1 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Just three sprues, two vinyl tracks and some decals Meng M4A1 contents by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Going to add a couple of Tamiya figures, kindly donated by club colleague and Sherman guru Pat. He also sold me the kit (cheers Pat). Tamiya crewmen by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr I know it doesn't have a scale and looks a bit odd in this company.....but thought it might be something to have a bit of fun with! Cheers, Dermot
  20. Hello all, Here is my recently completed Sherman diorama I entered for the M3/4 group build - M4 Sherman meeting up with an advance party of the 2nd SAS Regiment, Normandy 1944. The build thread is here The Sherman is Tamiya's great M4 'Early' kit with Legend stowage set and some other odds and sods. The SAS jeep is Italeri's Commando Car, with Dragon figures and some extra kit from the spares thrown on. The base was pre-made and bought of a famous auction site. Thanks for looking, Dave
  21. Dear fellow Britmodellers, just finished this one over the holidays - Dragons 1/72 M4A4 Sherman in British service, Normandy 1944, built from the box with the addition of CMK stowage. Painted with Gunze/Mr.Hobby acrylics (H304), weathered with artists' oils and pastel chalks, photographs by Wolfgang Rabel. Greetings from Vienna.
  22. Hi everyone, really looking to getting this one going! This is the kit, The contents of said box, The extra bits dragon have included in the kit the side fenders are photoetch which is nice and looking at the instructions the road wheels rubber bits can be slipped on later which will mean no masking!! The suspension seems workable and there's a barrel for the 105mm gun which is nice. The only problem is that the way the rubber/vinyl tracks have been stored is that they are stuck on this position. The plan is maybe to do the USMC machine as I like the yellow on green but Ill have a look for decals if not I'll just go for kit ones. Joss
  23. Dear fellow Britmodellers, this is my 1/72 Heller Sherman M4A2 built from the box with addition of CMK tarpaulin. A very nicely detailled kit, almost as good as Dragons' offerings. The kit decals did not work so well and still show their carrier film despite gloss background. They did not respond to setting solutions either. Model painted with Gunze/Mr.Hobby acrylics (H304), dusted with pigments and weathered with artists' olis. Photograph by Wolfgang Rabel. Thank you very much for your interest in this topic. Best greetings from Vienna.
  24. Greetings Sherman Fans. My entry for this GB will be this Photo for discussion only from the excellent walk round HERE. I may also make an instructor figure as this is a driver instructor in the Israeli Army.... After that I assure you things will go downhill.... This is what I'll be starting with My big box of unloved Sherman bits left from several stalled and abandoned builds. Fortunately there are enough bits to build this vehicle but I will be replacing the horrible HB tracks with THESE from OKB Grigorov and using his drive sprockets HERE. The HB tracks are a little narrow due to overthick drive sprockets. But they seem right for the slightly narrower items fitted to the T29...... The M4A1 upper hull has had an engine bulkhead added to keep the lower hull aligned and it's engine deck removed for another project which, as you may guess, never got finished. Roll on the 30th!
  25. Hi there, I've setup my workbench and found my kit, so if glue and paints are not dry, I should survive my umpteenth comeback to modelling, this time after four years. For this Sherman GB, here's my choice. Dragon M4A3E8 "Thunderbolt VII", which will... not be build as "Thunderbolt VII", but I won't tell you more, at least for the moment. I used to review each kit I build, but not this time, as Terry Ashley does it very well. I've got a few books to help me during thid build. Well, it's about time.
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