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Found 24 results

  1. Hello and hope everyone is okay, here's one of my now very infrequent models! This is my attempt at Airfix's prehistoric A W Seahawk, which is poor even by the standards of 60 years ago. It is more inaccurate than accurate. My copy was from the early 90's, an indifferent product of the Heller factory and the instructions refer to parts such as the stand that weren't even in the kit. I built it mainly because of my interest in the old RNAS Ford, or HMS Peregrine, which is just down the road from me and saw practically all Naval types during the 1950's. Apart from a lot of Revell Plasto filler, I added parts including the vanes in the air intakes, a cockpit coaming and gunsight, an ejector seat, jet pipes, a pitot tube, main undercarriage doors from sheet, the landing light in the nose, various new undercarriage bits and the two "fins" under the fuselage - I think these are cartridge case deflectors for the cannon, not antenna, although I may be wrong. I removed the weapons pylons. I also carved cannon troughs, sanded the trailing edges of everything that had one, reshaped the tail "bullet" and filled the areas on either side of the front canopy to remove the odd "bulge" which Airfix's designer thought was there. The model was airbrushed with Humbrol matt 90 and 79. Decals went on okay over two coats of Klear and using Klear as a decal agent. Luckily there's not too many... final coat was the indispensable Xtracrylic matt varnish. I do note that brush painting Klear always results in "pimples" which are either air bubbles or flecks of dust - these can be carefully rubbed down with micro-mesh before spraying the Xtracrylic, but this only works here because there's not much surface detail! Final touches were wingtip lights (clear Tamiya acrylic - mine has nearly dried out and had to be revitalised with alcohol - must be Navy) and silver pen for the nose light. I admit it's not the best model I've ever done but it looks like a Seahawk (which itself looks like a flying penguin...), at least from a respectful distance. Hope you like it anyway. Please excuse overspray inside canopy... What RNAS Ford looks like now;
  2. SH-60B Seahawk (KH50009) 1:35 Kitty Hawk The Sikorsky UH-60 Black Hawk was the Military designation of the S-70 design which was the winner of the US Army's 1970's competition for a twin engine medium lift helicopter to replace the UH-1. Following tradition it was named "Black Hawk" after the Native American leader and warrior of the Sauk tribe. Following the original UH-60A there have been many improvements and variants of the original airframe. During the 1970s the US Navy began looking for a replacement for its Kamen SH-2 Seasprite which was used by the Navy as its platform for the Light Airborne Multi-Purpose System (LAMPS) MK.I system. The new avionics of the LAMPS Mk.II needed a bigger airframe. After looking at a variety of airframes the USN decided on a maritime version of the S-70. The biggest changes being the addition of a folding tail, and main rotor assembly for ship board operations. The S-70B would be designated the SH-60B. Also added to the helicopter for Naval operations would be a sonar buoy launcher, emergency floatation system (later removed), and the left hand door of the UH-60 was removed. The new helicopter would keep an 83% commonality of parts with the UH-60. The prototype fist flew in 1979 with production deliveries beginning in 1983. The Kit This is a new tool from Kitty Hawk, like other members of the family it shares sprues with the other kits, The kit arrives on 12 sprues of plastic, two clear spures, a sheet of PE, and two sheets of decals.. The large box is fairly stuffed with plastic! some parts are common sprues for other versions so there will be a lot of parts left over. Construction starts with the main cabin which is in effect a module which will fit inside the fuselage. We start with the floor and opening up of various holes for the internal fixings. The central well for the cargo hook is boxed in, then the centre console for the cockpit is added. Three main seats must now be built up for the pilots and the rear sensor operator; PE belts being provided for these. The cabinets and consoles for the rear position are then built up and installed on the left side, and a box which contains avionics fits to the right side with a gap down the middle to reach the pilots. At the front end the main control panel goes instruments being provided as decals). Behind the rear operator the sonar buoy launching rack goes in, and behind that the rear bulkhead. The pilots controls need to go in and the left & right sides go on. Two additional seats go in the rear these hang from the cabin roof. The cabin roof then needs to be fitted to the main module, at the front of this is the pilots overhead console where again instruments are provided as decals. The cabin module is then complete. Once the cabin is built up attention then moves to the engines. There is quite a lot of detail here as two complete engines are built up along with all the internal structure. These are all fitted into the roof of the engine house. Gearboxes to the main rotor are added along with the exhausts. The intake assemblies are also built up and added. If wanted the external covers can be added, or they can be left off for maintenance dioramas etc. To the top of the housing antennas are added. The main rotor head is then built and the blades added. Now here is where Kitty Hawk and their instructions let us down. The parts are in the kit to support the rotors when folded, however there is nothing in the instructions to show how the rotor head needs to be configured for folding blades. The main cabin module can then be places inside the fuselage halves. There are a large number of holes to be opened up before fitting this and rear wheel assembly (much further forward on the Naval helos) must be installed at this time. The main glazing now needs adding along with all the doors and external pylons and fittings. There are optional structures such as a FLI turret for the front, but nothing is mentioned in the instructions about which option is for which decal option. The MAD and its pylon go on as well as the main landing gear and its mounts. For this version the tail is separate and can be attached in the normal or folded positions. The large rear stabiliser is then made up and added along with the tail rotor The complete top section and rotor can then be added to the main fuselage and the underside radome is added. Again here the instructions do not really explain how to attach the folded tail section very well. If making an armed version the kit contains torpedoes and external fuel tanks. If you are looking for how to attach these in the instructions then dont bother nothing is mentioned at all for this. Decals The decal sheets are in house and should pose no issues. The main sheet (which is rather large) provides the colourful main markings. These have been developed by Kitty Hawk in collaboration with Shayne Meder who did the real artwork on these aircraft, so there should be no issues there. A smaller sheet provides cockpit and other details. From the box you can build one of six helos YSH-60B LAMPS - Prototype Helicopter USN HSL-41 "Seahawks" - USN HSL-43 "Battle Cats" - USN HSL-45 "Wolfpack" - USN HSL51 "Warlords" - USN SH-60B From the Spanish Navy Conclusion The plastic looks great, and it should build up into an impressive looking helicopter. There is much to recommend this kit in terms of the quality of the parts and the available options, however it is let down again by the instructions. Overall though recommended to those who want a modern tooling of this Helo and are prepared to put the work into the research and building of the kit. Not for the faint hearted or those who want a quick / easy build. Review sample courtesy of Available soon from major hobby shops
  3. HH-60H “Rescue Hawk” is a derivative that specialises in combat search and rescue (CSAR) and naval special warfare (NSW). It operates side by side with the SH-60F from aircraft carriers, and incorporates a nose-mounted FLIR turret. I have seen several Sea hawks almost always in standard grey while researching the aircraft i stumbled upon this unique one time one aircraft blue and gray camouflage scheme. Kit and supplies used Italeri 1/48 HH-60 Seahawk Eduards- HH-60 Exterior detail set 48658 Eduards- HH-60 Interior detail set 48496 Authentic decals-HH-60 Ocean hawk, Rescue hawk #48-21 Wolfpack-HH-60 folding tail set #48125 Blackdog HH-60 Cabin detail set A48010 Skunkmodels HH-60H upgrade set Archer-resin rivet heads .043-.098 Paint and supplis Vallejo-73.645 Primer black Vallejo-71.276 USAF Light Gray FS36495-underside/belly Vallejo-73.276 USN Light Ghost Gray FS36375 Vallejo-71.332 Underside blue Faded FS35450-camouflage Vallejo-76.515 Light Gray wash Vallejo-76.518 Black wash Vallejo-77.724 Metal color-silver Vallejo-77.725 Metal color-gold XF-85 Rubber Black AK Interactive Utra Matt varnish I originally was going to use the Skunkworks kit however quickly discovered it was sold out everywhere it would have eliminated most of the expansion packs I needed to convert the Italeri kit to a true HH-60H. CONSTRUCTION Black dog interior set was assembled and painted the interior kit although detailed suffers from mould creep and is in need of retooling the fit was very warped and I had to bash it to get it to fit properly into the model shell so much fitting cutting, fitting cutting. Anti slip protection strips were custom added to the floor pan. Interior upgrade set assembled prior to inserting into model shell. lastly for the interior was the door details I added some build up that was missing from the kit door to photo references I tried to find an upgrade set for the rotor head but so far does not exist in 1:48 so it was onto doing some scratch building from the best photos I could find. I used jewellery plastic cord which is very loose and flexible .5mm . There were a few PE parts for the rotor head in the Eduards exterior kit what was lacking is the detail for the coupling and shackles when the blades are in the folded back position. I spent two weeks applying the extensive Eduards exterior detail set in conjunction with the skunkmodels upgrade set and the Wolfpack folding tail. These are the best rivets in a decal sheet just cut and apply like any decal they are raised so when painted over get that ultra realistic look. Painting and weathering Here is the homework on the proper colors and camouflage pattern I found on the web. I did up some swatches to check the accuracy. The blue is FS 15044 MR hobby colour originally listed that I found on a 1/144 scale HH-60 kit instructions is cross referenced to Vallejo FS 35450 faded blue. First coat over pre shaded primer black. I decided to forgo the AK masking putty that I used on my previous F-18D project I was not happy with the performance. I moved onto Royal Le-page Blue Tack its cheap easy to cut doesn't move over time and provides a smooth curved line with no residue. Once removed I wash it in a bath of 50/50 water and Windex then let it dry remould and reuse its awsome. The next hurdle in this project was the custom tail markings as no decals exist for the matching color markings so I photo copied the decal sheet to get the right scale then used masking film to hand cut a mask. I could have made a custom decal but matching the colour would have been a nightmare I did this in about an hour and I think it turned out for the best. Applying the folding tail Should be finished in a about a week final paint touch ups, weathering, decals and matt varnish. The decals by Authentic from the few I used were a nightmare they disintegrated when wet so I had to put a coat of Microsol decal film to rescue the rest. I had to reorder the set to get the ones that got destroyed back that are key like the " danger air intake". Worked on the folding blade restraints today from some good ref photos another item that is not out on the market. It takes many tries and patients to dry fit the parts to get the right lengths but the work is worth the effort. After fit is done I tacked everything together with glue let set then removed, airbrushed and reset into place.
  4. This is my build of the 1/72 Hobby Boss's Sikorsky SH-60F Oceanhawk. The kit was a fairly easy build although I could argue with some of their decisions and the lack of some interior and engine exhaust detail. The kit came with decals for this and an HS-8 aircraft and while they went on fairly well there was more silvering that needed attention then I am used to. I used both the Eduard 72-378 and SS344 interiors and their CX244 mask. Even though the 72-378 is really for the Hasegawa kit, it worked well here. So, on to the picturtes Next up is the Hasegawa SH-60B Enjoy
  5. Hi folk's,and to celebrate I thought let's go small,Spadad tipped me off about these little Revell gem's so here's the Seahawk the Blackhawk is next on the list, what a superb little stress free build it was,even a passible front cockpit and at just over six quid good value for money especially if you're pushed for space. Anyway firstly the this is how small it is shot and thanks for looking in.
  6. I know I'm joining this late and the model has been started but in my defence I only joined the site a couple of weeks ago and only came across this particular thread on Tuesday. So I'm going to be putting together the Trumpeter 1/48 Seahawk. I actually started it on 7th April while we were on holiday in Wales - I though it might be a little easier to transport than a 1/48 Wasp, a 1/600 LONDONDERRY (from the Airfix LEANDER) or a 1/600 ALACRITY in a South Atlantic Sea State 10 which are the others on the bench at the moment. Unfortunately I didn't take too many photos of the early build because the lighting in the holiday cottage wasn't great and in any case I didn't think I'd need them. The only one taken during that first week was of the bang seat. I'm basically building this out of the box so yes, I could have bought the Aires resin cockpit but this was going to a relatively fun quick build and so let's keep it simple. Unfortunately, I couldn't do that so armed with photos of a MB Mk 2, I set about thinning the sides, adding the bar across the back where the curtain is attached which tips the pilot out of the seat after ejection and adding a bit of texture to the very plain seat back. You can see the initial work below: . That was day 1 or 2. I then went on to complete the rest of the cockpit, again largely out of the box but with some light embellishment such as the addition of throttles, sea belts (from wine bottle top foil) and paint the interior of the UC bays (and hence my interest in the other thread on that subject before it was too late to repaint if I'd got it wrong). I got back from leave 2 weeks ago and set the Seahawk to one side in order to concentrate on the Wasp (based on the very aged and fairly crude Fujima kit being built as XT420, HECLA Flight in June 1982 in which I was serving as a fresh-faced Midshipman, straight out of Dartmouth). But I'll swap over this weekend and see where the Seahawk takes me. Haven't decided which aircraft to go for yet. I'd like to look at doing WV908 in RNHF colours of 806 NAS but I haven't found any decals for that variant in 1/48 and I don't relish printing the white serials or ROYAL NAVY logo without access to a white printer, so I'll probably do one of the two Op Musketeer aircraft for which kit decals are provided.
  7. Hawker Seahawk FGA.6 800 Naval Air Squadron, HMS Ark Royal and Farnborough SBAC Show, 1958 MPM Kit finished with Xtracrylic paint and Xtradecals. The serial and code from the Xtradecal sheet was changed to represent XE342 coded R/100 which was flown as part of the 800 NAS display team at Farnborough 1958. The kit’s nosewheel was too small so I substituted a nosewheel from an old Airfix Seahawk. The MPM kit was OK but I think I would use the more modern Hobbyboss kit next time around. The model is part of an 800 NAS jets collection, which starts with the Attacker – see photo. The Scimitar is also done, as are 2 Buccaneers and numerous Sea Harriers, most of which have been posted to Britmodeller at various times. Still to do are two more Buccaneer S.2s, a couple more Sea Harrier FRS.1s, one more FA.2 and a Harrier GR.9. I may well add the Harrier T.8 now Sword have produced one, and a Hunter T.8. Looking forward to it all! Chris
  8. Hello Chaps, Until my man-cave is setup in my new home, I cannot do any airbrushing and so my last 6 builds have been "old school" brushing with the "hairy sticks". I've decided to stick with 1/72 scale while using brushes because there is less surface area to cover compared to the 1/32 scale I prefer to build. This was my first adventure with the bristled wands that I completed in November, 2016- the HobbyBoss 1/72 Seahawk Mk.100/101. Not a bad little kit with decent tub details for this scale; I added seat belts made out of foil from the top of a wine bottle and the rest was OOB... If you'd like to see my YouTube build video, then here is the link to that: Thanks in advance for taking a look and commenting, much appreciated. In the meantime, happy modeling! Cheers, Martin
  9. Yesterday I did some portraits of a friend and his family. He had a woman living with him who had 2 young children and 2 Bull Arab dogs. She had barely enough money to feed her kids let alone 2 grown big dogs. She left and left the dogs behind, my friend is not overly rich and has 3 kids, a wife and 2 dogs of his own. I am a little distressed over the state of the dogs. I am starting this kit to get my mind off the dogs. This is a female 1yr old, notice the wound on her leg. 2 yr old male The Wife and I are thinking of joining ARRG (Animal Rights and Rescue Group) to help these poor animals. We have a Bull Arab called 'Billy'. Billy is another ARRG dog we have had for 2 months. He is not spoilt , much, we took him to Pet Barn to choose some toys new on Saturday. He is scared of being in the car. We are trying to show him good things happen when you get in the car. Billy I am starting this kit to get my mind off the dogs. I have already said that ---- not working. Box art Thanks for looking. Stephen
  10. Hi all. This is the 1/48th Trumpeter FGA.6 Seahawk. I started this about a year ago and I’ve just finished it today (16/10/16). It’s been around a while so and information about the kit is readily available online so I won’t cover that here but I will cover some of the issues that I had when building it. Firstly, it’s built with kit decals. From the boxy get WV824/122-C. An FGA Mk.6 apparently from HMS Bulwark in 1959, that’s what Trumpeter tells me so I’ll go with that. Main paints are Gunze Acrylic, Mr Color Lacquer and Tamiya Acrylic all thinned with various amount of Mr Color Levelling Thinner so it goes through the H&S gun. The seat has been replaced with a Pavla item though I don’t think it’s correct for the variant. So sad too bad right? The kit decals performed quite well with the Microset/sol products. The white is transparent so you can see the demarkation line between the grey and white on the rear fuselage, be sure to squint your eyes. Building the model was pretty straight forward with the two most noticeable problems being cleaning the seams of the intake guide vanes and cleaning up the horizontal seam that separates the upper and lower fuselage halves. Two or three applications of sprue glue helped eliminate the seam along here with some judicial sanding and polishing of the plastic for final finishing. Nose weight was installed behind the rear wall of the cockpit as I was suspicious of tail sitting with the wings folded. I installed a number two sinker with some two part epoxy to secure it in place to ensure this wouldn’t happen. I still had suspicions when I test fitted the wings and gear so I had to hack the noses of the wing tanks to install a number 0 and number 1 sinker in each of those. This put weight forward of the main wheels which ensured it sat on its nose wheel. The main tanks needed some work after having their noses cut off. Iy was once again out with the sprue glue to tidy up my handy work. Another fiddly area to tidy up and look respectable is the forward rear join that runs straight through the middle of the exhaust panel. More sprue glue fixed this panel up. The corollary to this panel line is that time needs too be taken when aligning the fore and aft fuselage sections. The Mk 1 eyeball helped here and I’m pretty happy that all is square. The other subassemblies are certainly not Tamiya like in detail but they suffice for this model. The undercarriage and associated doors are suitable for the kit as long as you don’t pick it up and the flap wells are there but…meh. Of course the most noticeable feature is the folded wings of the model. I replaced the kit attachment points with something a bit more substantial from card stock and some superglue. The kit would have you mount the wings perpendicular to the horizon line but reference pics suggest that they are almost touching. Due to the precarious fold I opted for a middle ground and angled them in but not to far so that the glue wouldn’t be to stressed. The benefit is that it saves display space in the cabinet and is something different to look at. There’s a bunch of other stuff I could go on about but this is enough…tl;dr right? Pardon the moody pictures too. The black cardboard was at hand so that’s what I used. Feedback and suggestions are more than welcome but I certainly won’t be building another one of these soon! Thanks, Michael
  11. I started this about the same time as the MiG-21 but has languished on the ‘wait’ until the MiG was done. Now the MiG is out of the away I’ve been tinkering on it for the last week and it’s starting to look like a Seahawk. The kit is the 1/48 Trumpeter FGA.6 The fit of the cockpit tub leaves a bit to be desired but I’ve managed to get it in there. There’s not a lot of internal bracing in the forward fuselage so the top/bottom seam wasn’t exactly a perfect join. Since gluing the joint I’ve gone back over the joint with some home made sprue glue (cheers Pappy) to fill in the gap. This allows the gap to filled and strengthened at the same time. Sanding it back to a smooth joint doesn’t take much effort as you’re sanding plastic all the way without the worry of sanding away filling material at different rates. The seam through the middle of the exhaust panel has had the sprue glue treatment as has the rather large ejector pin marks in the main gear doors and the inside of the flap slots on. Some nice detail on the wing fold. This is the Quickboost seat; can’t say that I’m fussed with it. I think I might shell out for the Pavla variety as it has the seat cushions molded in place and a more realistic drape to the belts. The 60lb rockets need a bit of work as they are integrally molded onto the launch rail. In their infinite wisdom Trumpeter decided to make them into a two piece affair thus adding a fiddly seam to be tidied up. Again sprue glue to the rescue here. There’s eight of them to do and they're a bit fiddle, particularly ensuring that the fins are correctly orientated and the fore and aft body parts are aligned. The main wheel well was base coated black over which I sprayed an Alclad shade (sorry, can’t remember which one it was) over which some Games Workshop Nuln Oil was applied. I was unsure about the top panel line on the rear of the fuselage as it did not meet with its forward counterpart. I decided to hit it with sprue glue too. I’ll rescribe it to so it meets with the forward panel line at the mid fuselage join. There's a slim chance I'll have paint on it over the weekend but there's a 40th birthday in need to attend to for a lady I know. Cheers, Mick
  12. Earlier this year we (723 Sqn, RDAF) took delivery of the first three MH-60R Seahawks. The remaining six airframes are scheduled to be delivered during the next 1½ years or so. The MH-60R will replace our Lynx Mk. 90Bs, and retirement of the latter has already begun. More pictures can be found here: http://www.amarc.dk/index.php/gallery-mainmenu-31/26-helicopter-pictures Jens
  13. Hello! Here's one of my model, which was done simultaneously with the Delta Dagger. Everything was connected quite well. It was only one problem- the front part of the fuselage, where the top and bottom were combined bad. After gluing the halves repeatedly formed between them crack. even after painting. In building I used a photo-etching set and resin ejection seat. The model was painted Tamiya and MR Hobby paints. Weathering- oil dots, pigments and salt dots.
  14. Lukgraph is to release a 1/32nd Curtiss F7C-1 Seahawk resin kit - ref.32-03 Release is expected late September 2015. Source: http://www.lukgraph.pl/products.html V.P.
  15. Has anybody on BM made these kits, and are they worth spending money on.
  16. As a follow on to my thread on the RH-53D and the great information it uncovered for me I need some guidance on the smaller ship borne helo's operated by the US Navy. I've already got an Airfix Kaman Seasprite in the stash (and a lovely kit it is too - one of Airfix's best) but I want to portray its successor the SH-60B Seahawk in my line-up. So the question is fairly simple - Who makes the most accurate Seahawk in 1/72? Hasegawa, Hobbyboss or Italeri/Tamiya? (plus anyone else I've forgotten about) Over to you gents, please enlighten me Regards Tom
  17. Hi All, It is done! Skunkmodels 1/48 HH-60H Rescue Hawk HS-6 "Screamin Indians" Wolf Pack tail fold Cobra Co Naval main rotor head Eduard interior & exterior PE sets Armycast mini gun set Fireball ALQ-144 Authentic decals Gunze & Tamiya Acrylics. Thanks to those who followed the ups & downs of my first WIP. Thanks for stopping by Cheers, J
  18. Hi, anyone know what colour of flying suit would have been worn by a Seahawk pilot in the Fleet Air Arm circa 1950s ?
  19. I built this straight from the box using the Indian Navy markings. I love the Extra Dark Sea Gray/Sky combination and colors presented in the Indian Navy markings. The kit went together with the usual angst regarding these kits. There are several builds on BM that talk about how to approach attaching the tail and the bottom line is the kit instructions are not the preferred method. I found it better to put the main fuselage together then add the tail section one side at a time and shim along the main seam. That way the panel lines will line up. Kit needs a lot of nose weight. I used about 10 grams pushed in around the nose gear bay. More is better in this case. The rest of the kit was fine.
  20. I'm looking for the older kit 2620, however I have a newer version(SH - 60H) which looking at scalemates seems to be the same kit but updated. I have the Cobra detail set for the 60B. Any of the buffs out there advise me if the new kit is suitable? The 2620 kit doesn't seem all that readily available. Thanks.
  21. Hi everyone and this is my latest, the SH-60B Seahawk by Hobby Boss in 1/72. The full build thread is here but to recap: Kit: Hobby Boss 87231 SH-60B Seahawk Decals: 'Family of Hawks' by Printscale - unit markings are HSL-51 based in Japan. Build: OOB except for scratchbuilt centre pilots' console (which you can't see!) Paint: Brush painted with Revell Aqua Colour acrylics; Games Workshop Nuln Oil; Flory Models Wash; W&N Matt Varnish. Thanks for looking! Dermot
  22. Hi everybody as I'm new here I thought I'd show some of the models I am particularlly pleased with from my 100+ collection. The Jaguar I just finished tho still cant get a straight yellow band around the bombs! And the A319 before the Jag (lesson learned with the A319 dont use aircraft paint on plastic it peels off) Anyway please look and comment, my next Build is the Airfix 1/48 Lynx HMA8 Roundals and fin flash on the Mustang had to be painted by hand due to decal disintigrating. And now my personal favourite
  23. Hi all, Have been really looking forward to this GB for a while now and have pulled this one from the stash. Kit contents/sprue shots.. Clear parts, decals and colour paint guide. This is going to be OOB but instead of the kit decals, I'm hoping to go with an aftermarket set for HSL-51 Warlords - really like that tail scheme! Thanks for looking and good luck with your builds! Dermot
  24. Sikorsky SH-60 Seahawk, pics thanks to bootneck.
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