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Found 57 results

  1. Hello, I'm wanting to kitbash/scratch build a helicopter from the anime film "Ghost in the Shell". What would you recommend I do? It has the features of a Hind, but it has a bay where snipers are perched. Any scale will work. https://goo.gl/images/Yq9vxn Yours truly, Sam
  2. Hello All, I've had a set of plans and a hankering to build a Fairey Long Range Monoplane for a long time now (since 1997), and a testing group build on another forum gave me the excuse to get going. There are no injection or resin kits of this, and the only vac-form I know of was produced in 1985. So it's a scratchbuild job! I dug out my balsa stocks and had a look. I didn't want to carve a one-foot-something tapered wing out of half inch balsa, so I started messing around with a composite structure: The idea was to have a curved upper surface of soft 1/16 balsa wood. More support needed! Shaping was done by plane first and then sandpaper. There wasn't too much to take off - mostly shaping the tips, LE and TE. Dihedral was added with a saw cut. I painted the balsa with Ronseal wood hardener (designed for rotting window sills, which is where I know it from) and then sprayed with Halfords filler primer, which is a jaunty shade of orange. Fuselage was six slices of 1/8" balsa, with the beginnings of a cockpit cut out, stuck together into halves which in turn were tacked together (hopefully I will be able to get them apart again) and roughly shaped with a razor plane. When the black line round the middle gets smaller, that tells me I am sanding down near the profile. I made tail surfaces out of 1/8" balsa, and sealed them with superglue. I used a plastic bag over my finger to spread the glue around - it saves a lot of finger scrubbing later! After some sanding and filling, I could put a coat of regular grey primer on the wing. I still need to touch up a few dings before it's ready to detail. So next up is to finish the fuselage, and then the basic shapes are done. Then I can resume regular modelling! Thanks for looking, Adrian
  3. So, with the corrected QL chassis/cab done I left you at the end of the last log with this..... In the last few days I've started to put this together..... A J145 Radio body, and whilst at it I'm making the kit version of the same body for Ian at Wee Freinds.... I'm currently at the point of the challenging part... Shaping the 'Luton' box above the cab.... More to follow soon..... ATB Sean
  4. Hello, some airborne topic. I used the 1/72 ACE kit as a template. Tires are from Rocos Jeep. and in colour Happy Sunday Cheers Macki
  5. Something a bit different for you all, This might not look finished to you but to me this is complete and ready to be sent for manufacture.... For those not following the build log it is here..... http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235016713-airfix-172-corrected-bedford-ql-yes-this-is-172-plus-some-others/ Here is a picture of the full kit of parts, it will be supplied with 2 of the parts sprues to create a full kit, and I suspect a choice of canvas, but this will be down to Ian at Friendship Models to choose how he sells it...... ATB Sean
  6. At long last, and so long as the bucket place works, I can post pictures of my latest scratchbuild. The parts were accumulated over a long period. The main body, the big black thing in the picture, was a device for playing mp3 in the car, the tanks on the sides are, I recently discovered, No2 bottles, I just found them on the ground. The pilot is over 45 years old and was an Airfix Ford Escort driver, you may be able to see an Escort hubcap on the nose. The wheel for the top hatch was an Escort steering wheel. The 'arms' are from a minesweeper tank, the skids once held pencil lead. Nearly everything else is bits of tank models. Oh, the 'radar arm' over the top was a free pen that came in the post, various other kreiger space models have something similar. So, hopefully you'll enjoy Orbital tug 42. With British standard Humbrol tinlet to show the size! The thruster nozzle came off a toy space shuttle. The round bits above the cockpit are lights. I later added lenses. here you can see the Escort steering wheel. The side thrusters were from a pair of earbuds. The Sherman suspension parts are probably where a larger ship would clamp the tug for long distance travel. Yes, a pair of tank turret cupola's were used to mount the main thruster. The intrepid pilot. He and the cockpit details are rudimentary, I mostly wanted to concentrate on the exterior. The Escort hubcap is visible here, some sort of scanner, I imagine. As always, comments are welcome.
  7. I've got six Shermans inn my 1/48th scale collection, although one them, a Mk.Vc Firefly is in a rather dilapidated condition and requires rebuilding. The others are a mix of different marks from various sources. Kit wise, I only know of the three from Tamiya (Mk.1c, M4A1 and M4) and the ones from Hobbyboss which are based around M4A3's and early M4's. There are, or have been, a few after market offerings in resin to produce different marks. This first one was the first that I built in this scale, namely an early direct vision Sherman ll. This uses the lower hull from the Tamiya M4A1 and the upper hull from the German company MR Modelbau, who also supplied the early M3 VVSS. Decals are from Bison. The second one is a Sherman lla. To build this one I used the Hobbyboss M4A3 lower hull and turret coupled with an M1A1 barrel from RB Models. The upper hull came fro m a US company called Iron Division, which I think unfortunately, is no longer trading. Decals again are Bison. Next up is a Mk.V of the RMASG named "Fox". This came from the excellent resin kit from Fighting 48th, who once again are sadly, no longer available. The kit is actually meant for the Firefly, so the M4 turret from Tamiya was used instead along with an RB Models barrel. The decals were custom made for me by Ernst Peddinghaus. Once again, Iron Division supplied the upper hull for this one. The lower hull, VVSS units and the turret came from Tamiya's Firefly 1c and the 17pdr is R Models. Finally, I built this 10 years ago and just after I completed it, Black Dog announced that they were going to do one in resin, although I don't think that they ever did. The lower hull was completely scratch built and then I added the HVSS units from the Hobbyboss M4A3E8 kit. The upper hull was a combination of the front piece of the Tamiya M4 mated to the rear half of the Hobbyboss M4A3 with an extension piece each side. I used the Hobbyboss M4A3 turret and glued a load of plastic onto the rear and then blended it in with Milliput. The mantlet was made from a triangular piece of plastic to which a barrel made from a Panthers 75mm along with a scratch built muzzle brake was fixed. The engine deck was made from card and the decals again came from Peddinghaus. I will one day get around to building the others that I have in the pipeline, namely Sherman lll, M51 and (I know it's not a Sherman, but almost) an M3 Grant. Regards, John.
  8. As I was building the EVA resin kit of the 1940's Upholder - I wondered if I could make a companion model of the 1990's version. I did some research - and found a side profile drawing in a Russian submarine book I had - and Wiki informed me that the beam was 7.2 metres in diamter. I checked in my stash for a suitable donor kit - and discovered that the Hobby Boss kit of the German navy Type 212 had the approx diameter hull - even the bows looked the same - the only problem was the hull length - way too short - and of course the upper decking and bridge (sail, conning tower??) Luckily 7m converts to 20mm in 1/350 scale and I found some 20mm dia plastic knitting needles to use a plug to lengthen the hull. So, here goes........... Type 212 at top - compared to Upholder drawing. Type 212 hull sawn in half - with 20mm dia plastic knitting needle 'plug'. More to follow.... Ken
  9. Hi everyone! My name is Ernest and it’s my first post here. I’d like to show you my latest 1:72 model – Ilyushin IL-14 from White Eagle Museum (Skarzysko-Kamienna, Poland). This is a scratchbuild model, but fuselage was converted from Plasticart’s Mercure 1:100. More pics you can see here: http://www.pwm.org.pl/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=54241 It’s polish forum, but there is a lot of photos showing the construction progress from start to end.
  10. Here we have a 1/76 scale Airfix/scratch built Bedford QLC TEV Telex truck, marked up as HQ Signals, 2nd Corps ATB Sean
  11. Bandsaw Steve

    Hello from Western Australia

    1/48 aircraft enthusiast joining from Western Australia . Am currently scratch-building a Mig15. Might get keen and start a thread
  12. So. I have a new scratchbuild project. And its a big one. After much luft 46 building, I've decided to do something on the ground. This monster, armed with 2 280mm naval guns from KMS Gneisenau, would have weighed 1000 tons, and would have to have had 6 sets of tracks. So far I've done a little on the 'Ratten gruppe eins' (thanks Levin), and made a start on the turret, using plans made from a sketchup model. The group consists so far of an Airfix sd kfz 222, and an Ex-Matchbox Revell Jagdpanzer. The white objects in the photo are 3d printed items, (made out of PLA on an M3D Micro printer, not the best but certainly one of the cheapest ready built one) and are a Saukopfblende for the Pak44, which will be sourced from Modelltrans' conversion, a 280mm gun (looks better in real life), and 2 Wirbelwinds, in need of trimming and barrels. The Flak 38 wip is from Zvezda, and the Jagdpanzer crewman is Plastic Soldier Company.
  13. Dear forum members, I have seen the wonderful Turbolaser diorama from Tony Agustin from 2003. I was so fascinated from his work that I decided to build one as well. As I was not a model maker and have never tried to build something from scratch this project has been a big challenge for me. The X-Wings are from Bandai 1:72. In total it took me 200 hours +. I hope you like it!
  14. I have a few projects on the drawing board, all of which involve the Liberty Ships of WW2 fame. My intention is to build at least three different types/classes of ship using the Trumpeter 1:350 Liberty ship kit as a basis; (if I can find more kits in sales or at affordable bargain prices) and hopefully I will be able to produce some WIP's that will keep me occupied during the period from now and through the autumn and winter evenings. This thread is the first such project and I shall be using the Trumpeter 1:350 kit of the John W. Brown version to make a conversion build. The vessel to be built will be HMS Assistance [AR-17], a repair ship of the Xanthus sub-class of Liberty Ship types. Two were completed for the Royal Navy, one was an aircraft depot/repair ship and served in home waters whilst the other, HMS Diligence [AR-18], served in the Far East as a destroyer depot/repair ship. Their time in the Royal Navy was short-lived, due to the ending of hostilities, and they were returned to the U.S.A. in 1946. Although my intention is to build this kit as the aircraft depot/repair ship HMS Assistance, I may change my mind and build it as HMS Diligence; if I can find some research data on which destroyers might have been alongside her in late 1945 whilst in the Far East. This will be a waterline version and I hope to place the finished model in a sea setting diorama, but that is a long, long way in time to be concerned with at the moment. Starting with the base, I have glued a sturdy piece of brass rod in place. This is more to give the model some weight as I don't think these models suffer from any warping or bending up of the hull over time. Next element is to add some strengthening plates to the mid deck sections, before adding the bow and stern deck pieces. This area of the kit's deck is unsupported underneath and can bend and cause the joins to part when sanding and fitting parts etc. Virtually all of the deck fittings, especially the hatches, will need to be removed before any further work can be undertaken. The RN versions had much larger accommodation and working spaces than the standard cargo ships, plus they had additional armament and sponsons; most of which will need to be scratchbuilt for this conversion. The deck area has been cleaned down to the basic level and just needs all the holes and gaps filled before the actual build can start. I shall be using plans, which I found on-line, that I have resized to 1:350 so that they match the kit in size. This will help considerably in identifying each structure's required dimensions and their locations. Final thing for this post is to mask all the gaps and joins and then fill with thinned Green Putty. The thinner is cellulose thinners and is mixed with the Green Putty to act like a thick surfacer which I can paint on using a standard modelling paint brush. The holes in the deck have been plugged with white styrene rod and cut flush to the deck. When the putty has completely dried, I shall remove the tape and then get down to sanding everything smooth with wet and dry. Hopefully in the next session I will be able to start making up some of the structures. cheers Mike
  15. Hi all, I'm still pretty new to model making, so this might be an obvious question, but is there any easy way to build a replacement clear part for the cockpit glass? I stupidly cracked the kit part after the below picture was taken, and it really is beyond repair. I can't afford to get into vacuum forming either sadly. This is only my second model building project, an old MPC Millennium Falcon I got for a reasonable price - and being the novice I am, I was totally unaware (or rather didn't read up before making an impulse buy at a convention!) of the amount of inaccuracies with this kit. I've made some minor modifications, such as building a new engine grill, lighting it, as well as ordering some aftermarket parts (the inner cockpit detail and a smaller radar dish), but I wasn't brave enough to correct the scale of the cockpit section. My hope with this kit was to get some experience using oil washes/weathering techniques, rather than getting a screen accurate model, as my only previous experience was building the Voyager from Star Trek (so, pristine and very little weathering). It's still not finished yet, so i'm hoping it will get a little darker/dirtier with the later layers. Hope you can help, as I'd rather not leave the glass out if possible. (the top half isn't attached yet, hence all the light leaks)
  16. Felt like doing something different and as no-one else is likely to produce a kit of this, a scratchbuild is the only way to add it to my British Jets line-up. More info Luckily it's all simple shapes and very small so I don't think there will be too many headaches with this. Started off by printing out the basic shapes and cutting them out of plasticard. Quite quickly all glued together and left to harden off. To cut down the amount of work, I had a hunt through the spares box for donor parts for the wings, tailplane and fin. The orange wings are from a Polish glider kit that previously gave up it's fuselage for another scratchbuild so I've had my moneys worth out of it! The tailplane is from an F-86 and the fin from a Crusader (I think) tailplane. Each one is shown before and after being modified, with the sections that have been removed. I was very lucky with these parts as they were all a fairly close match. A bit more chopping and gluing later...... ....and a bit more. The fuselage has now been covered in filler and the rear section partly sanded back towards the correct shape. You can just start to see the plasticard showing through. Needs a lot more work but the basic shape is starting to come together. Thanks for looking. Steve
  17. Does anyone have, or know of, any decent plans of the Handley Page HPR.1 Marathon? I don't know if any such plans were issued with past aircraft magazines but I would like to get hold of a scan or photocopy in order to have a try at scratchbuilding one. Also, does anyone here know of any commonality of parts, between this aircraft and others, such as wings, tail, undercarriage etc., anything which might help by utilizing parts from other models. I work to 1:144 scale. cheers Mike
  18. I'd like to join with a diorama setting of a part of the U.S. Air Force base at Bien Hoa, South Vietnam in the late 1960's. I like to work in small scales and have a few aircraft that might look OK in a small diorama setting around 1966-68. The plan would be to, hopefully, scratchbuild some revetments, corrugated hangars and a tarmac/dispersal area for the aircraft. Incidently, in the colour image of the airbase, there is a fire truck in the top right and corner just approaching the revetments; plus a delivery type van at bottom centre. Does anyone have any details on these types of vehicles (or any other US vehicles typically found there), especially with plans, as I would like to add a few to the dio. cheers Mike
  19. Hello to everyone! This is my first attempt at this so forgive me of any mistakes. As a very keen modeller through the late 60’s all the 70’s the one kit I always lusted after but could never afford (or do justice to) was the 1/24th Harrier. An older friend bought one as soon as it was released. He kept getting the box out, looking at the massive sprues and it and put it away again, for years we all kept asking where the Harrier was. That friend unfortunately died a good while ago so in some way this build is to the happy memories of Dave Rodgers. After starting modelling seriously again 3 years ago, I decided that it was time to have a bash and tackle the monster - thanks to a sale on Amazon I picked up the newly boxed GR3 for £36. Even though I enjoy using resin and photo-etch we sometimes seem to be heading toward a world where you needn’t worry about painting skills when you can stick in self adhesive pre-painted details. I remember when building flying models in the 70’s ARTF (Almost Ready to Fly) appeared, buy Saturday - fly Sunday; I railed against that a little too, I’ve always been a builder. My concessions to the modern era are cyano glue and acrylics. I always use Mek as a plastic solvent which costs around £10 for a litre. I buy Isopropanol for around £12 per gallon from Amazon. A great Acrylic thinner is 50% Isopropanol and 50% winter car windscreen wash. Anyroad, the kit still is a cracker and is a superb representation of the early tin-wing Harriers. Anyone who looks closely at a preserved GR1 or GR3 will see Airfix got the surface textures and details spot on. In places the early harriers look almost ‘boilerplate’ in construction. The kits surface detail is one thing - interior detail is another, it’s virtually absent. The design and engineering is typical of the era - even having the novelty folding undercarriage and closing doors etc. I decided to avoid resin and etch and built the whole thing in a true 70’s scratch build style. I haven’t had this much fun in years. Please respect copyright of my photographs. Starting the build. I attacked the cockpit tub first (as tradition dictates) .5mm card was used for the raised riveted plates using the Trumpeter riveting tool to detail. I built some switch panels from plasticard with thin slivers bonded upright to represent toggle switches. I dug out as many reference images as I could but the bulk of the ejector seat obscured much of the view; therefore a little artistic licence was used to give the impression of a busy cockpit. Most of the detail is added from plasticard scraps and stretched sprue. Different thicknesses of solder are always good for detailing. After a few coats of paint, glossing and washing the cockpit tub looks suitably grimy! The decals supplied work very well on the instrument panel and are large enough to cut out individually to fit, I use a set of cheap hole punches. I painted the back of the clear moulded radar/moving map screen then the HUD frame was built from fine brass wire. Shadows were airbrushed in to increase the impression of depth when the cockpit was closed up. At the same time I added detail to the sidewalls using tube, solder, fuse wire and plasticard, I cheated a little and got some ideas for the detail from resin examples I saw for sale at the Huddersfield show… The Seat The kit seat is virtually blank and needs a complete replacement/rebuild especially when everyone peers into the huge cockpit of a 1/24th scale model. To ensure a clean fit in the tub I used the measurements of the kit seat to build one from scratch - only the kit headrest was used. Canopy cutters were added to this and the parachute with its straps and cables were added to form the headbox. The parachute and straps are lead foil. The seat itself was a simple construct of 1mm card with details added from scrap plastic and .5mm brass wire and seat cushions carved polystyrene foam, dipped in PVA to seal the surface before painting. The seat straps and canvas cover are lead foil again. All the separate elements were built, painted and weathered before final assembly. You know, those headbox height adjust bars (red at the moment) are scraps left over from an Aurora biplane model from the late 60's... The straps and canvas cover are all made from lead foil, I found scraps of Eduard etch left over from a Chieftain MK5 build that worked very well for buckles etc. The supplied Airfix decals finish it off very nicely. A quick dry brushing with grey and a coat of matt varnish and it's ready for the straps fitting. My first plan was to build as originally intended and have the whole wing removable to view the engine; however as the build progressed it became obvious that I wouldn’t be able to get a clean fit without large gaps. I did away with this original feature enabling a much more solid build and elimination all those awkward wing joints. a pity though as I'd spent over a week detailing and painting the Pegasus, based on one displayed at Cosford. The Airfix Harrier is big, very big so to avoid damage during construction I replaced all the blade aerials with .5mm brass sheet glued firmly into slots cut deep into the plastic. The slots were filled with thick cyano and sanded, I'm determined to use this method for future builds (of all scales). Bits & Bobs The undercarriage wells on Harriers are quite large voids within the fuselage. In 1974 it was more important for Airfix to compete with other manufacturers and add moving components. Of course moulding technology has moved on in huge leaps since then but the 1/24th Harrier was seen as a wonder in it's day. The wells are nothing more than empty plastic boxes in the kit; I couldn't source any clear images of the inside of these areas so I used my 'Artistic Licence' (mine came from Woolworths for 2/6d) to detail the voids. Only the nosewheel bay is clear on a few internet images I found. It wasn't too difficult to drill plasticard and cut into strips after marking the plastic with a riveting tool and then drilling every second hole with a drill made from a 1mm Hypo Needle. A drill made from a hollow needle gives a very clean cut, I grind the end down to a 30 degree (ish) angle on wet and dry paper. The pressure vessels are 1/72 torpedo bodies from a Nimrod. These areas are well weathered to depict a harrier flown from rough ground. The kit mainwheel well has detail on the backside (in the engine bay) so I invented appropriate looking ribbing, boxes and tubing (I only bought the cheap Artistic License) this was then painted and weathered. It was at this point, when the fuselage was starting to fill up that I could test fit the wing assembly and decided to fix the wing in place. I cut out one access panel to show some engine detail as can be seen on the finished model. All the various vents and intakes on the fuselage were cut out and backed with foil from an old electric razor - the fine mesh was ideal. The nose camera had a similar treatment, a lens was made from scrap sprue, mounted on a bracket in the hole and then blocked with foam until painting was finished. The window was afterwards formed from ‘Clearfix’. The kit vinyl tyres look very realistic after a rub down with wet 800 grade paper, turning them a very accurate dark grey. The undercarriage legs are fairly well detailed, the nose wheel benefits from a small bracket for the lamp, some electrical cabling and hydraulic tubes. These were well weathered to represent the dirt kicked up from rough ground and oil leakage. The fit of the huge fuselage halves proved to be excellent, the little filling necessary required my favourite slurry of cyano and talc. I found that a 1mm hypodermic needle was the same diameter as the Airfix rivets and was used to recreate those lost. I cut square and sharpened a short length of hypo tube and glued it into a paintbrush handle. After drawing lines for the missing rivets this improvised tool was ideal for re-cutting the missing detail, initially easy to do, after completing a few hundred the novelty wears a bit thin. The wingtip ‘puffers’ are not really represented and need cutting out and boxing in before detailing, The same applies to the auxiliaries surrounding the main intakes, these are lightly sprung and drop under gravity on harriers at rest. I cut out the engraved panel lines and constructed a long square tube from 1mm card, cut unto short lengths and bonded in they could easily be sanded flush and filled to neaten the finish. The .5mm plasticard flaps themselves were cut to fit and glued in at appropriate angles. Onto the canopy, this is a very thin and crystal clear moulding, the windshield only lacks the wiper which is easily build from brass wire and a sliver of card for the blade. I traced the outline of the detonation cord on a scrap of balsa and pushed pins where the cord bends, it was relatively easy to wind solder around this and then rest it inside the canopy. Using Pledge floor wax I glued the solder in place. I cut 1mm strips of white decal paper to lay on the inside to form the sealant band and dipped the whole thing in Pledge and covered it to dry for a few days. The canopy was them masked, painted and put away for a few months until needed. The fit of the sealant looks uneven because it's on the inside of the canopy! after masking and painting the camouflage it looks very real. The windshield was masked the wiper added and the whole assembly glued in place with pva, it fits perfectly and needed no other work. The most awkward job proved to be the hot and cold nozzles, the kit ones have a joint in the worst place possible and are smooth all over. The real ones have riveted vanes inside and ribbed plates on the outside (strengthening I assume) these were made from .5mm card, bonded with Mek and then wet sanded to blend them in. These took A LOT of filling, smoothing and fiddling to get them looking something like. I painted them with Tamiya Aluminium, fading into Titanium at the hot end and then thin coats of Tamiya Clear Orange for heat staining. The saving grace is that the moulded exhaust halves are very thin and very nicely contoured. The underwing stores needed some extra detailing, mostly small plates and panels, the pylons however are blank, I made beer can tin templates for the panel lines needing scribing, as eight sides needed detailing this was the best method to achieve consistency. The cut-outs for sway braces were there but I needed to add the braces themselves from 2mm square pieces of plasticard drilled to accept short lengths of .5mm brass wire. As with all the other bits, the pylons, rocket launches, fuel tanks and Aden gun packs were painted, decaled, weathered and put away for use. By now I had a box crammed full of sub assemblies, moving to major works on the airframe was a relief! The overall shape is very good and considering the Harrier is one of those aircraft without a straight line anywhere the Airfix surveyors & drawing office did an amazing job in 73/74. The contours are very well captured and the fit of the fin is so good only a line of thin cyano is needed to hide the joint. The final hurdle, painting the beast. I used a cheap black aerosol car undercoat for the fuselage (it looked great all black!) all the seams were checked and luckily only a few needed filling. On a large scale model I prefer a dark undercoat as I paint the topcoats using a very thin mix and spray at low pressure. In this way I can work closely painting each panel from the centre outward. I find this gives me much better control over a weathered finish and avoids the toy like look of weathering that is even and precise all over. The mixture (mostly Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics) were thinned 50/50. Tamiya thins well with my invented mix mentioned earlier. Vallejo needs water to thin it (or their own thinner). I think Vallejo paint has Polyurethane in the mix and Isopropanol thinners create an instant jelly monster in your airbrush that needs Professor Quatermas to remove it successfully. The paint applied in this manner on a dark ground will look alarmingly patchy, it is also quite fragile. The magic happens with a coat of Pledge floor wax (known as 'Klear' in the colonies). One coat immediately blends the colours and darkens the paint to look like the colours on the tin. It also toughens the finish. Another 3 coats and a polish with a clean dry j-cloth and the monster was ready for decaling! Incidentally, most of the painting on this model was completed with a cheap £25 Chinese airbrush (cheap but beautifully made, sprays anything and is easy to clean). My Badger Renegade Velocity has never lived up to it's macho name and has been completely rebuilt twice in twelve months and was out of action for the third time during this build. I'm afraid the airbrush body is made from a hard anodised but VERY soft brass and the needle mechanism was so badly made Badger themselves described it as 'pants' and sent a replacement. The engineering and build quality is worse than the Chinese £25 special; I'll never buy Badger again... The Airfix Cartograph printed decals are superb, dense, thin and in perfect register. They settled onto every contour and panel line to perfection. Two more coats of Pledge on top and the whole was put away for a week to harden. I weathered and highlighted the panel lines and rivets with Flory Models 'Dark Dirt' wash, this is an absolute pleasure to use and is one of the very few recent products that are genuinely innovative and make finishing simpler. After drying, excess wash was wiped away with a new damped J-Cloth & cotton buds dealt with the tight corners. All those sub assemblies were now added with 5 minute epoxy, cyano and PVA for the canopy before a final post shading with Tamiya smoke thinned with 75% pure Isopropanol. After everything set the whole monster had a couple of coats Windsor and Newton matt varnish, this needs a few days to cure properly but is very matt and very tough. The post shading, dirtying process, paint chips were all completed after decaling. Some of the decals were weathered slightly around the edges to depict paint wear. The dark aircraft grey is a self mix and has a little blue added, if you look at period Harrier images, you will find mixtures of both hard and soft edge camouflage schemes, I like the look of soft demarcation and went for that. I have an old publication from 1982 'The RAF in Colour', there are hard and soft edged camo aircraft from the same squadron in the book! The decals needed only a little softening with dilute acetic acid to settle them onto the Pledge glossed paintwork. And there it is, after 39 years and 7 months I finally built and finished the big harrier. I've always been fascinated by the Harrier it was one of the first aircraft I can remember seeing that seemed to have an 'organic' look to it, no straight lines. Those huge intakes and the pilot seemingly sat in a 'pod' in front of the aircraft had a real 'science fiction' appeal to a youngster brought up on Gerry Anderson programmes. Airfix caught the 'hunkered down' look of the early Harrier to perfection. Oh yes, and all the wheels stood on the ground together when finished. The build was aided by, Radio 3, 4, 4 extra, BBC6 Music, Stuart Maconie's Freak Zone, Amon Duul II, Hawkwind, Faust, Can, Black Sabbath, Falkenbach, Van der Graaf Generator and far too many other unremarkable heroes to mention. The whole experience was an absolute joy and will always rank as a favourite build, it’s also the first model of mine in 40 years to be on a stand!
  20. This project started many years ago. I had many set back with ( mainly of my own making) Having a look back at older pictures of this build I was surprised to find out I started it in July 2004! The base kit was a 1/48 Hasegawa Falcon 10, I was able to use most of the fuselage and wings which scaled out perfectly in 1/72 for this build. The engines are resin made by Fred Harris in Oz, He had already scratch built his own kit. Having worked on these during my time in the RAAF I had to have a model of one. Since starting this build 2 kits of the Falcon 900 have been released, a vacform form Broplan and a resin kit form VAMI. Anyway it is great to finally have this finished.
  21. Romeo Alpha Yankee

    Dassault Falcon 900

    Some years ago I decided to build a model of all the aircraft I had worked on or flown in in the RAAF. At the time there was no kit available of the Falcon 900 in any scale. I had heard of someone using the Hasegawa 1/48 Falcon 10 as a base for the build in 1/72. So I had a crack at it. After a lot of cutting of plastic and filler I got it to this state Over the years it has got renewed attention as I realaised shape issues or figures out how to tackle a problem I had been having with it. So here we are again with renewed interest. I have again pulled it down from the shelf of doom and paid some attention to it. This time around I am refining the stub wings for the engines an starting to add some detail. So what is left? Scribing some detail into the wings, entry and baggage doors and the engine servicing panels. So ihave started to pencil in some of the lines I have to add. How far will I get this time, who knows I might even finish it this time around
  22. Ace From Outer Space

    1/144 F117 Stealth Fighter Intakes help

    Good morning Ladies and Gentlemen, I've been pottering about with the Revell F117 Stealth Fighter kit in 1/144 and am about to start the build. The kit is OK, nothing special and to my not very discerning eyes seems accurate enough for me. The only really nasty innacuracy I can see, apart from the sensor or whatever it is below the cockpit glass are the intakes. Revell, bless them, have provided two perfectly formed plastic waffles to cover the intakes with. While they may keep the aircrew fed and happy, they do nothing for the kit. On the real aircraft the intakes seem to be some sort of mesh. Has anyone got any quick and easy ideas to replicate these in the completely mahoosive scale of 1/144... I can scratchbuild, or even try some PE.... Open to any suggestions! Cheers everyone, Viv
  23. I haven't looked around this topic much yet, so maybe my question is already answered. I want to build an east coast maritime Canadaian lobster boat. They range in lengths up to about 40". I want to de the more simpler ones, not the big ones since I don't have access to them except on vacation one week of the year and I'm land locked in Winnipeg. My main question is making the hull. More recent ones are fibreglass and some even gelcoat, older ones were traditional wood. I gaven't done any ship scratchbuilding yet and I'm not perfect with vac forming and wood carving. I do have a decent belt sander and a friend who does home renovations with a good amount of wood tools.Just looking for suggestions. If you do a search for maritime Canada, east coast lobster boats, Nova Scotia, PEI, etc, you'll see them. Each region of each province has it's own little variation.
  24. I'm rather pleased with this one: Diamond T 968/ William Bros 'SnoFlyr' rotary snowplough. Used by the RAF from about 1943, originally developed for the US Navy, these were versions of a civilian highway model, themselves versions of a railway design. The chassis was cut a little shorter at the front, and obviously the winch & front bumper assembly left off. The support frame assembly was scratch-built. The Rotary Snowplough was scratch-built using plasticard and microstrip and rod. There are some pictures on the web of this unit attached to a FWD HAR-1, and I used these pics and a copy of January 1946 edition of Popular Mechanics (bought on the web) to produce a scale(-ish) drawing. The engine cover on the rear was again scratch-built using plasticard. Most of the RAF examples had a Coventry Climax R6 engine to power the snowplough, through a transfer case, and provide hydraulic power for the controls and lifting gear. The chap was from one of the many Airfix RAF vehicle sets. I reshaped head and hands to represent a woolly hat and gloves, and added a tissue paper(+PVA glue) leather jerkin (the famous 'Don R'), on which I tried to represent the wind. The colour scheme is basically US Olive Drab, mixed to Mike Starmer's spec. At this stage of the war the RAF didn't re-paint vehicles until they needed it- so most RAF vehicles would've been in the colours they were supplied in. I sprayed Humbrol Glosscote over it, applied the decals and a light blackwash, and finished with a coating of Humbrol Mattcote. I did a quick dusting of artists pastels to get the snow effect. The base was a spare piece of cotton glued onto the base and covered in a filler called 'OneTime' this is a lightweight decorators filler (uses micro balloons) designed to fill deep holes and dry quickly. AS you can see it dries really white, and rock hard.
  25. Hi all, Well this only took me four months due to uni and holiday etc, but it's finished at last! A bit about the build, I wanted to build a hack aircraft that was a bit different; being a Spitfire enthusiast, any aircraft related to a Spitfire squadron was of particular interest, moreover late war (1944-1945) is mostly where my interest lies. I had previously come across this Bf-108 that was impressed into RAF/RCAF service sometime in 1945, the airframe is presumed to be ex-civilian (white tyre walls), maybe used by the Luftwaffe, very little is known about the aircraft's true history over than it ended up as an RAF/RCAF hack. With such a nice colour scheme and fitting the time period in which I'm most interested, I couldn't resist. The kit is Heller's old and basic Bf-108, I attempted to remedy some issues such as the raised panel lines by doing a full rescribe and squaring off the horizontal stabilisers, I also decided to scratch build an Argus AS-10 engine to sit upfront - this required a bit of body work, including plunge moulding an engine cowl. A new fixed pitch prop was sought and extra attention was paid to the navigation lights (made out of clear sprue). WIP Overall I am pleased with the result IMG_1343_zps2dtnd149 by Ben Standen, on Flickr IMG_1344_zpsxksszj4r by Ben Standen, on Flickr IMG_1346_zpshsv5xwcm by Ben Standen, on Flickr IMG_1347_zpslau3zvvp by Ben Standen, on Flickr IMG_1348_zpsw3lasvbt by Ben Standen, on Flickr IMG_1349_zps0ek5eh9s by Ben Standen, on Flickr IMG_1351_zpssymlgdo6 by Ben Standen, on Flickr IMG_1353_zps7acxetd7 by Ben Standen, on Flickr IMG_1354_zpsnd7hpdro by Ben Standen, on Flickr IMG_1355_zps3cm2shsg by Ben Standen, on Flickr IMG_1356_zpsilfbbppq by Ben Standen, on Flickr Thanks for looking, here's my next project Ben
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