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  1. Hi everybody, After recently completing my first ever scratch build I am jumping back into the deep end. The BE2c has long been a favourite of mine but has never been available as a 1/32 kit so the only option is to get stuck in and have a go at scratch building one. The version I want to model has a Royal Aircraft Factory 1a engine which is not available as an after market kit so that is where I shall start. The engine looks quite complicated so let's just see how far this goes, if nothing else the modelling Gods might take pity and give us a kit. Here is a picture from the front; Royal Aircraft Factory 1a V8 engine by Richard Williams, on Flickr Scary stuff! The crank case at least is just a box and the massive fly wheel is just a circle at the back. A few bits and bobs stuck together gives me this; RAF 1A V8 engine by Richard Williams, on Flickr The mounting beams are left long for ease of handling and will be cut down once the frame is together. RAF 1A V8 engine by Richard Williams, on Flickr Not he most impressive work for sure but it's a start! I don't know the name for the tear drop shaped housing that the prop shaft goes into, whatever it is called I made with laminated 2mm styrene sheet cut and filed into shape. Handily this gave me a centre line for adding the bolt fixing channels. The bolts (correct number of!) were added by using a similar method to my riveting method. 2mm lengths of 0.5mm brass tube were cut and using a paintbrush were applied with Future floor wax. Nice and easy because it can be rolled into position. 20210811_224652 by Richard Williams, on Flickr Once dried super thin super glue is applied to each one and zapped with Zip Kicker. Hopefully this gives the look of them being part of the casting rather than separate parts stuck on. A quick lick of paint to see how it looks reveals a few blobs of CA glue that need to go but I quite like the overall look. 20210811_231525 by Richard Williams, on Flickr Cooling fins were added to by cutting tiny pieces of styrene. Gel super glue was added to the engine part and using tweezers the fins were added. Great care needed to be taken to hole the fins so the tweezers didn't touch the glue, not 100% successful but at least nothing pinged across the room. 20210812_193956 by Richard Williams, on Flickr Again, super thin super glue was run down each fin in the hope of making them look like part of a 1 piece casting. The main parts are just tacked together with a tiny blob of glue for ease of handling but it is beginning to look like an engine! I won't have any time for a few days so here it will stay for now. Thanks for watching, all comments, criticisms and advice gratefully received. Have a great weekend. Richie
  2. So my first contribution to the GB will be the Scout F a development for the Scout but I’ve chosen it firstly because I like it’s looks and secondly because it looks much more like an interwar fighter than a WWI plane. First job is to scale these to 1/48.
  3. Came across this while surfing the interweb and thought I had to build one, I may even attempt the digital camouflage. Step 1 as the plan is slightly bigger than A4 I resorted to good old pen and paper drawings to scale it to 1/48. I’ll mold it as wings, tails, booms and fuselage/canopy so quite a bit of woodworking to follow.
  4. Some of you may remember me eventually turning out the Hansom Cab a couple of years ago, a long and protracted road but I am happy we got there in the end. This time I am turning my eye to the horse drawn buses which made Birmingham (not alone of course, but I am a Brummie and not even ashamed of it guys) the workshop to the world. As factories were opened they needed men and womens to get down and dirty making their products and as Brum got bigger a transport service was needed to feed the factory's desire for more, more, more employees. Birmingham's first horse buses first ran in May 1835 and by 1869 there were 20 horse buses in service on 15 routes. Trams drawn by horses came later, in 1873, hmm maybe later... Anyway a reminder if you dont mind me slowing the section down to hoof pace I shan't be making wheels with fellies and the like, in this scale I am going to stick with my own tried and tested method of protractoring away any plasticard that isn't a wheel rim. And using these as wheel hubs. So that is me, this will be my fourth piece of Brummie Victoriana and maybe this is a time to show what I have in mind. A B.C.T Co Ltd 'bus unloading, possibly at New Street near the station. Allegedly, so little of Birmingham's great Victorian buildings was left after a town planner got his bulldozers into them in the fifties and sixties that it is difficult to identify the place definitely (rant over, no promise that it won't recur as we get into the business) This style of 'bus with three windows is more commonly photographed than the four window style popular in "that London" and is intended to be what I build if progress happens If... These happy folks look as if they are in their Sunday best which gives me to think they must be boarding the Balsall Heath 'bus to ride to Cannon Hill Park. Anyway, this is the plan Co-incidentally these are the plans The Model Wheelwrights kindly supplied me copies of their plans of the London Omnibus by John Thompson which have given me immense amounts of useable data and sizing clues (the plans had some scale info but were reduced from the original before I got them and I have had to resize and scale them as I go along, this is going to slow me down. If you thought the Hansom's pace was glacial, this time consider continental drift as a pace maker. (I was a little scathing about town planners destroying the Victorian infrastructure in Birmingham, but Manzoni did not get it all) Here is a Victorian bus in Sparkbrook with the same road now courtesy of Google Maps And a shot of the planning underway Work has begun on the lower deck foot well. And the BCT Co Ltd markings are being adjusted to. Well this is me at the moment, if you are interested on riding the bus please kick in with any comments helpful or not. (I am used to being told I am a dumb dolt ) Glue and knife time now, ciao.
  5. Bloody Mary is a hillclimber, built in the UK by John and Richard Bolster in 1929, when they were both schoolboys. It has a wooden (ash) chassis and was originally powered by a single J.A.P. V-twin of 750cc. Through the years, pre-war, it was refitted with bigger engines and ended up with two 1000cc J.A.P. KTOR V-twins, mounted in tandem. It competed until 1959, when it was put on display at the Montagu Motor Museum - and it's still there. It appears these days at events like Goodwood - the picture below is a from recent visit.
  6. Evening All, I have already written in the chat thread that I am keeping up the habit of a lifetime: I am late to the party. However I have only just started on this project, so under the 20% completion rule I honestly think that I am eligible to enter with what I have done so far. Before I reveal all however i will show you some images of my kit and instructions. First the kit: I know that these limited run kits are a bit basic these days, the more so as some parts may be missing - I will need some rod, hardwood for a propellor, and some wood for a plunge mould, but I am sure that you know what those parts look like. (I am aware that there is a vacuform of the SP 3 variant but as I do not like vacuforms I am building one of my own). So on to the instructions/plans: There are two small problems with the above image. First it does not show the plans - I am not doing so because I do not wish to infringe copyright, but there are good 1/72 scale plans in this monograph which I will be using. Second problem, the aircraft shown on the cover is an SP 3, a development of the SP 2 which had a two bay wing, (the SP 3 had a three bay wing), and the shape of the nacelle on the SP 2 was different. So here is a photo of an SP 2 so thet you have a better idea of what I am going to try to build: http://www.ww1-planes.com/Italy/Savoia.php Scroll down to the second photograph on the above link. Photographs of the SP 2 on the net are unfortunately in short supply because this is not a well known type - indeed I only found it via the WS DataFile catalogue. So far I have cut out the blanks for the flying surfaces, (wings and horizontal tail unit), from 30 thou card which has been bent in hot water in a plastic pipe: Also shown are the rudders, a plate for the engine base, (most of the engine was buried in the nacelle and will not be visible on the completed model so I am not making a sump which will never be seen), and some laminated card for the radiators. I have added 10 x 20 thou plastic strip to the wings which I am in the process of sanding down to represent the ribs: I have scribed the radiator blocks and added 10 x 20 thou strip to represent the metal straps and cemented the header and bottom units: So I am off to a flying start, well at least for the moment. Thanks for looking. P
  7. Hi guys, welcome to my proposed build for 2021, after I have finished my tug that is. As the title says, this will be a scratch build of the Japanese steam ship, Fushimi Maru. She was laid in 1913, launched in 1914 and her first voyage in 1915. Built primarily for the NYK’s European Routes with a typical routing in the 1920s were Yokohama, Kobe, Moji, Shanghai, Hong Kong, Singapore, Malacca, Penang, Colombo, Aden, Suez, Port Said, Naples, Marseilles, Gibraltar and London. Why may ask, why this ship? It’s a family history connection where sometime after WW1, a Spanish ancestor of my partner, travels from Gibraltar to London. I suggested ‘would you like me to build your Grandma’s ship and here I am, albeit a few years later? Anyways, the Fushimi Maru sailed her European routes until the outbreak of WW2, where upon she was pressed into military service as a troop ship. Unfortunately for her, she was sunk by the submarine USS Tarpon in 1943. Searches found little, most being postcards that show very little detail and images that tend to be from the 1930’s, neither showing the detail needed to reproduce a model of the 1919 era. I did come across this photo a couple of years ago: Once a museum exhibit at the Mariners Museum, Virginia, USA of all places. I approached the museum with the view of getting more details about the model and maker but at the time, my request fell on deaf ears and the project went on the back burner. I tried again a year later and must have contacted the right person at the right time, put my questions forward and to my surprise, the museum sent me a copy of a publication 'International Maritime Engineering' Vol. XX No. 7 and dated July 1915. Struck gold is all I can say, a very useful document indeed containg descriptions of things ranges from berths, holds, engines, boats, winches, etc and also had a Profile and deck plans. Brilliant! Further requests were made about the model or its maker but nothing could be found. I asked about the possibility of photos of the model exhibit and to my surprise, a member of staff was asked to liaise with myself about photos. In the end, I got about 20 images of the exhibit from stem to sten, both sides, with some nice close-ups…and they didn’t ask for a dime and declined a donation. Why can’t more places like this exist? I will be building a waterline model and I don’t think I’ll have any problems with the mid-section or the bow but the stern under section leading to the rudder is problematic to someone who doesn’t have a clue, unclear images or lack of profiles to get the curves. I’m thinking plastic but would wood be a better option for the hull? I chose the scale of 1/350, hoping to find generic offerings to make things easier but it doesn’t seem to be that easy as yet. Later on in the build, I'll be looking at possible cutom 3D options for the winches, custom PE for the davits and as for the boats... Until then. Stuart
  8. Connecto Brass Tubing Connectors (C-08) Albion Alloys Modelling has a root in our creative urges, and we’re always looking for new ways to make things better, quicker and easier. If you’ve ever tinkered with brass tubing, you’ll know that it can be tricky to form shapes from the material with any reproducible regularity in shape or angle, thanks to the vagaries of our human fallibility and judging angles, lengths etc. Connecto is a new(ish) system from Albion Alloys that makes it almost as easy as making things from Lego or its rival Kinex. It is a Photo-Etch (PE) sheet with many shapes etched out of it in the form of crosses, stars with different points, plus other angles my brain can’t convert into words right now. The arms of each piece is suitable to slot snugly inside brass tubing of the same type. For example, if you want to join Albion's 0.8mm tubing, choose C-08, as it is patterned to fit precisely. Continuing to use the 0.8mm as the example, the brass is 0.4mm gauge, and the individual arms are 0.55mm wide (approx.) to slide into the 0.6mm internal diameter of the 0.8mm tubing. Clever, eh? The product is available in sizes 0.4mm to 1.4mm, which gives plenty of range for your mind to come up with uses for the system. Albion kindly provided the correct lengths of tubing for our use, which is a good job as I’ve still not found my stash of brass tubing from the workshop refit earlier this year! This review focuses mainly on the Connecto system, but I’d certainly recommend their tubing, which arrives in a plastic cylinder with flexible cap and sealed bottom that can be used to store your brass safely as well as being good for damage-free shipping. The sticker has both the outer and inner dimensions, plus the product code (in this case MBT08) to ease re-ordering when you run out. The video below shows the best way to cut small diameter tubes, courtesy of Albion’s YouTube channel: The set arrives in a clear foil pack with a carousel display slot in the top, held closed by a sticker at the bottom, and covered with a card that includes simple pictorial instructions, but you can also watch the video on YouTube, as below. You will of course have to purchase (or have in stock) the correct tubing for the task in hand, and a sharp blade in your scalpel to both cut the tube and remove the Connecto parts from the fret at their thinned attachment point. Then you need to apply your imagination, cut your tubing carefully by rolling it under the blade, and apply Super Glue (CA) to the parts to lock them in place when you are satisfied with their positioning and length. When you are creating shapes that require some tweaking to get the last parts in place, it’s best to leave them loose until you are done, then apply a little CA on an old blade, allowing capillary action to draw the CA into the tube, removing the stresses on any existing CA that has begun to cure. If you cut the brass tube and damage or squash the ends a little, grab a push-pin (I have one that is like a short hat-pin), and push it carefully into the tube end to reopen it. You can also use a file on any particularly truculent arms, thinning or rounding them off a little. From one piece of tube and less than thirty of the Connecto pieces I made up four example pieces of different types, and found them fairly easy to use, with a small hammer useful to tap the arms home in certain circumstances. The only real warning is to make sure you don’t push too hard and skewer yourself on a tube or arm, but Albion have sensibly places a small warning on each pack because metal can be very sharp. Having accidentally stabbed myself with a pair of tweezers yesterday in an unrelated incident, I can’t recommend pain. To finish off an assembly, you can nip off any unwanted arms, and even bend them to create 3D shapes, such as tubular fuselage frames like in the Martin-Baker MB-5 or Tempest, tent frames, and so on. Their use is quite literally limited by your imagination. WARNING: Do not watch these videos while tired. They are really relaxing, and the music is too. Conclusion A scratch-builder’s dream that should be very useful. You won't be reaching for them every day of your modelling life, but when you need them, you’ll be so glad you know about Connecto. You should also check out Albion's other products on their site, because they contain so many cool tools and supplies that you might not otherwise know about. Extremely highly recommended. Available in the UK in most good model shops both online and bricks & mortar. Review sample courtesy of
  9. In a world of social media and texting, abbreviations and initials are common place, but unless you're a youngish girl, 'MLP' probably doesn't mean much to you! If you are a young girl, you probably know that 'MLP' is short for "My Little Pony"; popular toys for many years and an animated TV series. I can hear the murmurs of confusion echoing around the internet, so what does all this have to do with modelling? WELL!! If you're looking for aeroplanes, armour, warships etc, you've come to the wrong page. If you want to see something a bit different, with lots of scratch building and an unusual theme, then take a seat. My daughter ( now heading towards nine ), loves making things. She's built several plastic models, starting just before she was four years old. The Spitfire diorama below was one which she sold for a healthy profit! Around June 2016, I was looking for a project to help to fill in the six weeks of the Summer school holiday. My daughter was six at the time and for a while, we'd talked about making a small model railway. This would be a good holiday project involving lots of different skills. However, for a six year old girl, I didn't think a normal railway model was interesting enough to capture her imagination. My wife suggested a more fantasy railroad with fairy castles etc., but I wasn't sure. A few days after the initial conversation, my daughter and I were watching recorded episodes of "My Little Pony" on TV, and the particular episode featured the railroad that runs through 'Equestria', the land of "My Little Ponies". Hmmmm! the gears in my brain began to grind around and suddenly made a connection!! Kinder Surprise chocolate eggs had recently featured small toy "My Little Ponies" that were about an inch and a bit long. These would make ideal characters for a small "My Little Pony" themed railroad. My daughter was over the Moon with the idea; so that's what we did. The layout would be about three by two feet in size, which would fit in the top of her wardrobe when not being used. It would be a simple oval with one switch leading up a small track to a station. There would be a dividing backscene through the middle of the layout to create two different areas of interest. Here's the initial idea. I've been doing some more work on it recently, but really need to take you back to the beginning of the story first.
  10. Evening All, “It is a truth universally acknowledged, that every serious aircraft modeller makes pusher biplanes, either from kits, vacuforms, conversions or scratch builds: they are landplanes, floatplanes or flying boats, and can have a combination of tractor and pusher engines. Ideally they should be in God’s Own Scale, but other scales are permitted. When the modeller has built up a suitable collection in the Proper Scale, it is quite appropriate for them to turn to a larger scale and build them in strip-down form.” Making Real Model Aeroplanes by Pheonix, Idontgoto University Press, (in prep). In keeping with the above, I will attempt to build another large scale (1/32) strip-down pusher, this time the Airco de Haviland D. H. 1A. When I built the Vickers FB 5 Gunbus I wrote that this was an alternative possibility but because of a lack of information about some parts of the machine, especially the internals of the nacelle, I chose to attempt the Vickers. I am still lacking some information but have come to the conclusion that it probably does not exist. Consequently I intend to use modeller's license and the fact that G. de Haviland helped to design the Royal Aircraft Factory FE 2a: the two machines were remarkably similar in many ways. Given this I intend to construct what I think is a plausible representation - if anyone has contradictory evidence I would be very pleased to have it. I have already converted one of these from the Airfix 1/72 D.H. 4, the build log of which is at https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=3261.0 It looks like this: So I have put together my kit which consists of the usual plastic strip, card, rod, brass rod and bar, wood, thread, etc and some odds and ends from specialist suppliers: As the engine in the above image is a bit small and the wrong type, I have selected this lovely specimen from WingnutWings: I had toyed with the idea of making one of these from scratch but decided that I might want to build another model before senility prevents me from doing so. I also used these wheels on the Gunbus and recommend them to anyone building early aircraft in this scale: I used these instrument bezels on the Gunbus and although they are barely visible on the model at least I know that they are there together with Airscale transfers for the instrument faces (not illustrated here): Another small detail will be provided by resin representations of the pulsometers: That is enough pre-manufactured material, now to start the real modelling. The Gunbus was a half-strip down model but that presented unforseen problems because the weight is concentrated on one side, making the model inherently unstable and in need of permanent support to stop it leaning. The undercarriage is also not as strong as I would like it to be, so I have decided to build this model as a complete strip down. This means that all of the interior detail in the fuselage nacelle and the engine will be fully exposed, together with the structure of the flying surfaces. I know that there are kits that represent different aircraft in varying degrees of strip down, but as far as I am aware, none of the Airco D.H. 1A. I have been experimenting with some parts as I was finishing the FE 2d, the first being how to make the wing ribs. There are rather a lot of them and they have to be the same size in two patterns: some with holes and some with slots and holes. To ensure that they are all the same size I am using the following procedure: a. cut a length of 60 x 180 thou Evergreen strip (top) b. shape the strip to the shape of the rib. This will be the master strip for all subsequent ribs of this size. (second from top) c. using the master as a template, cut and shape another piece of plastic strip and mark on with a sharp pencil where the spars pass through (4th from top) d. drill holes between the lines which mark the spars (bottom) e. cut out square holes for the brass bar spars (middle): Complete the rib by drilling holes and cutting the slots as necessary. There are 40 full chord and 29 narrower chord ribs to make for both sets of wings, so I will make some and then work on another part of the model, go back and make some more, repeat etc until they are all made.... I also want to try out another idea which is to use wood laminate for the propellor. I have already commented on DMC's Revell Big Camel build that British propellors were made from laminated mahogony or similar wood and so should be uniformly dark, as on my Gunbus, but I decided to be a little inaccurate on this model and have used two types of wood instead. Strips of laminate were cut to length: These were glued with Evostick wood glue which dries clear, and the piece put under a press overnight: Not much chance of that delaminating when it is shaped! First mark out the plan of the propellor and file the wood so that the basic outline of the propellor is made: I marked on both surfaces where the bosses would be and the curved flat faces between the bosses and the edges of the blades. By carefully filing one face at a time the propellor can be shaped: As stated this is not strictly accurate as the laminations should be much thinner and darker but most people who look at the model will not be aware of this and I want something a little different. It may be a little while before the next post because although like others I am currently confined to my home, I have rather a lot of ribs to make and I need to work out the internal structure of the nacelle, and then how to start making that and the internal fittings. If you have been, thanks for looking. P
  11. After almost a year, FPV Jura is finally ready for inspection. Unfortunately I can't give her to my friend David due to Covid-19. She was his first command as a sea Captain. Build thread is here: Night shot, the LEDs and Fibre Optics worked well: Hope you like her.
  12. Hi all, some pics of my recent project, nearly finished - a few ammo boxes missing Cheers Macki
  13. MAYBACH HL210 P45 ENGINE FOR TAMIYA 1/35th TIGER I EARLY (Frühe) MM Series Kit no. 216 SCRATCH BUILD HAND TOOLS ONLY Sorry, but I just can't resist the temptation! Besides, this may fail disastrously and it's better to fail HERE and now than during the Pz VI (Tiger) STGB itself. So, I bought this Tiger a while back now, specifically for the forthcoming Pz VI Tiger STGB, which just won't come quickly enough! It's a very old, but good kit, and in my opinion it depicts the best looking Tiger I of all. The S-mine dischargers, high commander's cupola, the bulky air filtration system at the rear and the absence of Zimmerit are all 'added extras' that later Tigers lacked (making the later Tigers less appealing, to my eye anyway) And, having recently completed a whitewashed Nashorn,and previous to that a whitewashed Sherman, I thought I'd continue with that theme for this Tiger I. (BTW, IF you haven't been down there, get yourselves to the Group Builds section and vote for your THREE favourites in the Pz IV STGB!) But, having settled on that, I realised this wasn't going to be much of a challenge - and famous last words here - because I THINK I've sussed out my whitewashing technique, and a 'Snow Tiger' would be a relatively quick and easy build, and only a slightly harder 'paint'. So, I thought about depicting the Tiger abandoned and looking rather worse for wear. And then I thought 'why not fire a round or two into it and blow some covers open?' Yes! That's the answer! Blow some grills/covers off the rear and expose the interior. I just happened to have a rather bad, but completed, Tiger I mid. It was my first 'entry' when joining BM and it sat in a street diorama called 'Somewhere near Villers Bocage' or maybe just 'Villers Bocage'. Well, that dio doesn't exist any more and the tank itself has been sitting on a shelf for a few years, gradually 'falling' to pieces. For 'falling to pieces' read 'having bits and pieces broken off, either deliberately, or accidentally.' To see if my idea was feasible, I set about removing the cover over the cooling fans RHS, and one of the front fenders LHS. Yep, it was do-able, although the grills over the fans have a different er.... grill pattern.... than the early type. Having removed them successfully, and having limited damage to the remaining structure to a bare minimum, I set about removing the fan cover from the 'new' Tiger. I now have a Tiger's upper hull with an 'amputated' fan cover RHS, and a hole where I've not fixed the engine cover, and a lower hull with nothing in it. So I can dry-fit the two parts together and stare down into a big cavernous hole. What it needs then, are smashed-up cooling fans (there are two per side) and a dirty great big Maybach engine and its accessories. But I'm not forking out money on them straight off. I will attempt to build it all in plastic and wire and spare PE, using hand tools alone. IF I succeed, it will be popped into my Tiger I when the STGB commences and the construction reaches that stage. Otherwise, I will give up on the scratch-build idea and explore the dearer options. BTW, there is a '25' percent rule which states that a model may enter the STGB so long as it has not been constructed past the 25 percent stage. An engine and some additional pieces shouldn't break this rule. Wish me luck! Badder ps, IF THIS IS THE 'WRONG' THING TO DO WITH REGARDS TO AN STGB, PLEASE INFORM ME AND I WILL CEASE THIS THREAD AND HANG FIRE.
  14. Evening All, I have been through a complete loss of mojo recently: after completing the Dornier Rs II and base I was looking for a similar challenge and I had tried to continue with a 1/72 scratch build of an FE 2d, (an FE 2 with a Rolls Royce Eagle engine instead of a Beardmore), which I have been working on for about a year, but when I found that I will probably have to make a new nacelle I simply baulked at the idea: no particular reason why, just the thought was enough to put me off. I then floundered around with several different ideas and decided that perhaps a change in scale might offer a new challenge. This would mean that I would be abandoning the Sacred Scale, but I am determined that I will return to it in future as I have many interesting subjects on my “to scratch-build” list that I wish to make. I was looking for a subject to scratch build of course, and rapidly came to the (for me), obvious conclusion that it would have to be a pusher of some kind. I looked up several types but kept finding that I lacked enough information concerning the details of engines or interiors as I was thinking of 1/32 scale where details matter. In 1/72 scale I can make parts from drawings that look right, but in this larger scale I would need accurate 3D drawings and other information, and for many of the types that I considered such information could not be found. I also had the feeling of “done that” for some of the subjects I was researching. I do not usually like to make the same subject twice which may have been why I was put off the FE 2d - it is too much like the F E 2b, which I have already made. Then I happened to find a cut-away drawing of the Vickers FB 5 Gunbus. A couple of years ago it had been suggested to me that I try a cut-away model but to do this in plastic in 1/72 scale would be very difficult and probably leave a weak model. There are several cut-away model kits in PE in 1/72 scale but I do not like PE and I am not a kit builder any more, so that idea was a non-starter. But what about a cut-away in 1/32 scale? Problem: the engine. I can scratch build or convert engines in 1/72 scale and just get away with it, but that would not be possible in this scale, so I looked around to see what engines were available as aftermarket items. I went back to some earlier ideas and thought about either a DH 1A or the FB 5 Gunbus as engine kits are available for both. In the end I decided that I could not find enough information on the interior of the DH 1A so I settled for the Gunbus. I have built a Gunbus in 1/72 scale already - it was a conversion from an Airfix DH 4 but it was one which I started in 1981 and finished 31 years later! I am not planning to take quite so long this time…. This will be a CBSB (Classic British Scratch Build), - a basic, limited run kit with some aftermarket parts. As it will be a partial strip down the parts count will probably be quite high. I frequently leave my models unarmed but on this occasion I decided that I would model an early variant with the Vickers mg so I bought one of these from Gaspatch: it is resin. I also needed an engine - a 100hp Gnome rotary to be precise, and Wingnut Wings make a beautiful aftermarket specimen for an affordable price. ( Another difficult item to model is the wicker seat for the pilot but I found that Baracuda make one of these in resin. These three items are all little gems in their own right. Finally I have bought some PE instrument bezels, (I only have to cut and fit these so I can just about manage), and transfers from Airscale for the instrument faces. The remainder of the kit will be made from the usual plastic sheet, rod, strip, wood, brass bar for the wing spars and rod for the fuselage frame and booms. The fuselage nacelle of the Gunbus was made from steel tube, as were the booms, so I am going to have to learn how to solder brass rod and bar as CA will not be strong enough. My intention is to make a model that looks similar to the drawing I found on the net, with half of it cut-away showing the underlying structure, and the other half covered. I scaled up the plans from the DataFile number 56 and ordered some plastic strip from my LMS so that I could make the wing ribs. That was a mistake: after a month the shop had still not been able to get the strip, so I cancelled the order and got some in three days by post. I will not be using my LMS in future unless they have the items I need In stock, which is annoying because I like to support local traders: unfortunately that one will not be getting much of my custom in future. While waiting I had tried to make wing ribs from bass wood but these were not particularly good - I could not make the triangular hole at the front end and the very narrow slot at the rear, and cutting square holes for the spar to go through also proved to be almost impossible, so I intend to use 180 x 40 thou plastic strip instead. In all I have had a frustrating month ordering parts and supplies but getting almost nowhere in terms of actually making anything, except that I did manage to carve a propellor. This was made from 2 pieces of hardwood, (I know not of what type), which I regularly use for propellors. Gunbus propellors seem to have been coated in a dark varnish and this wood is just the right colour. The kit propellor (grey) is an example from a Wingnut Wings kit which was Kindly lent to me by fellow modeller Epeeman. The first shot simply shows the wood: This shows the wood being carved - the blade on the left has been shaped, the one on the right has not - taken from the side of the propellor. The extra thickness for the boss was unnecessary and was removed: The completed propellor - still to be varnished and a boss added: So after all the frustrations and stop-starts of the past couple of months I have at last begun a project which I hope will bring some results in the not too distant future…… Thanks for looking. P
  15. Show us an image, or just describe in words, a diorama you would like to see built. Please do NOT post pictures of dioramas already built. This is just a thread for inspiration for those who like to build dioramas. Here is one I would like to build: The painting scene is quite dramatic, especially with all the lights.
  16. I've been struggling with motivation lately so I thought I'd try something different......... I've long been inspired by the work Bob Wilson aka ShipbuilderMN Latest post http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235016920-berwick-law-steel-barque/ Plus Ray S & now Murdo entering the arena I have long had it in my mind to build a series of British Coastal Trading/Fishing craft. Being realistic I'm not going to live long enough to build in what I would normally call a reasonable scale. At this stage I've also got it in my head that I want to build showing the full hull to demonstrate the many varied hull shapes. So the chosen starting point is the 'Clyde Puffer' a more basic shape I can't imagine.... but good to learn the ropes in this scale. I photocopied the plan and stuck it on plastic card 'bread & butter' style Brass sheet was cut out and let in for keel Bulwarks planted on outside, to be faired in, supports added on inside and the signature picture of the Parker pen That's it for now Kev
  17. I was very impressed with the very classy wee scratch built "SS Ophir Steam Coaster" built by Ray S. Then of course, there's the shockingly brilliant scratch built models that Bob aka ShipbuilderMN produces (hate him... ) Sooooooo... Taking my daft ego in my hands I decided to see what ship I could scratch build. My uncle had a trawler back in the 1960's & 70's and I've always been rather fascinated by the Armed Trawlers used in WW1 & 2. I really wanted to build one of these wee boats so found some "plans" on Tinterweb and using some of the ideas learned here I set to work. I thought I'd taken a lot more photos than I can find but obviously not. I scaled the plans several times till I got it right (cos I'm too stupid to count and measure correctly). The Tinterweb plan: I printed the bits I wanted and stuck them on plastic sheet to get the shapes I wanted. That worked okay until I tried to un-stick the paper from the plastic. Tried several glues and finally settled on Copydex, the carpet glue. I have lots of this as I use it for masking paint. Here's the start of the hull: Also in the pic are the start of the super structure (two bits of square tube cut to size) and the funnel made from round tube. The deck has been cut to size then scored with a scriber to simulate planking and the top of the wheelhouse and walkway round the wheelhouse has been similarly scribed. They were then painted with Tamiya Buff and given a wash of Cital Seraphim Sepia. I would have preferred to use the lighter Tamiya wood paint, "Light Deck Tan" (or something) but naturally I couldn't find either bottle I own. Patience is not one of my best qualities so they got a coating of Buff instead. Then they were masked for the grey stuff. I needed a lathe so the electric drill and a twist drill had to suffice: And that's it for now. I'll post more pics soon.
  18. I am posting these pictures following a request for them and information on the build in the WW1 aircraft section of this site. I am also including pictures of the scratch built Beardmore engine as this has featured as part of the discussion. There is a full build log for this model on Airfix Tribute Forum under conversion corner, and ww1aircraftmodels.com in the under construction section if anyone is interested. I have also included some notes on the type for those modellers who are not familiar with this aircraft. In the build logs referred to I used wings from the old Veeday BE 2c. This kit is a rare bird these days and anyway Airfix have now produced a first class model of this type and I would recommend it as the starting point for this conversion as the outer wing panels of the FE 2b and the BE 2c were the same. However the FE 2b had a greater span so I would either make new centre panels from card (as on my original conversion), or use pieces cut from a second Airfix BE 2c kit. The Lewis machine gun, wheels, struts and propellor could all be taken from the Aifix kit. The remaining parts would have to be scratch built as per the build log, unless that is you can find an Aeroclub Beardmore engine - another rare item these days. The FE 2b was designed and built at the Royal Aircraft Factory in 1915 in response to a request from the War Office for a "gun carrier" for armed reconniassance, escort and pursuit. The prototype flew in March 1915 buty problems in supplying engines meant that the first order for 12 machines was not completed until the autumn of that year. Later the type was only supplied slowly because of the shortage of engines. However it quickly proved to be superior to the Fokker monoplanes that were causing heavy casualties among the BE 2c reconnaissance squadrons, and the type helped to achieve air superiority (with the DH 2 and Nieuport 11) for the Allies during the summer of 1916. Even after the introduction of the early Albatros fighters in September 1916 the type could hold its own in the hands of a good crew: von Richtofen was famously hit by a bullet from his own side when he was involved in a dogfight with these machines, and German pilots Schaefer and Ulmer were shot down by gunners in this type. The problem for the RFC was that by 1917 the type was obsolete but was kept in service as an escort because there were no suitable replacements. After it had been withdrawn from daylight sorties it continued to be used as a night bomber until the end of the war. Early FE 2b's had a complicated oleo tricycle undercarriage: this was modified in the filed to a simpler V and later replaced on production machines by an even simpler V. The type was deployed against Zeppelins in the UK but its slow rate of climb and poor ceiling made it unsuitable in this role. In all over 2000 of the type were built and it served in a wide variety of roles. It has had a bad press in the past from those who looked at it from the comfort of armchairs and noted the high losses suffered in 1917 when the type should have been withdrawn. In reality it was a good design for its time being strong, relatively easy to fly, and able to compete well against contemporary types: its rapid obsolescence reflected the pressures of war, not the deficiencies of the design itself or the crews who operated it. I built the engine using card, rod and stretched sprue and based it on drawings in DataFile No 147 and photographs of the engine from Viling's WNW build on this site and the WNW website. I apologise for the small images but hopefully they will be useful to others. This is the engine from the right side: This is the engine from the left side: These photos show the engine installed in the nacelle before I put the top wing on to the model. All markings except the serial were hand painted and the model is rigged with 40 SWG rolled copper wire. It represents an early machine operated by 11 Squadron RFC at Isel-le-Hameau in September 1916. P
  19. Hello all! I have just finished a scratch build of a steam coaster which I did for the Made In Britain Group Build here on BM, and thought you might like a look. This was my first 'proper' scratch build of a ship, I had done one some time ago but it was a plastic version of a paper model. This one I had to work out myself, and largely succeeded, but I am aware of a number of mistakes, misinterpretations and areas I could improve. I still need to give her the name plates, and pop her on a sea base. There is a build thread: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234994334-ss-ophir-steam-coaster-finished/ I make no bones about who inspired this project, and that was fellow BM'er ShipbuilderMN whose Merchant Marine models were such a factor in me choosing this ship to do. I also had tons of help during the project, (Longshanks, Murdo, Lashenden amongst them) and plenty of encouragement. Thanks to everyone who chipped in! This was one of my most pleasurable builds I have ever had. Thanks for looking, Ray
  20. I decided to have go at doing one of these using some spare bits I have now accumulated from my other QLs Its will be a Bedford QLC 'Cockatrice' Flame Thrower truck, This is being built on a left over chassis from an old Airfix Tanker, spare wheels. litteraly, from my other QLs and all the body work will have to be scratch built.... Already done is adapting the the wheels to fit the old kit axles, including brake drums, also I made the axle dampers as these will be totally visable on at least 3 of the wheels.... To the pics of it so far..... ATB Sean
  21. Hello all, This is my first WIP thread but is my second 1/48 model to hit my workbench. I have been really looking forward to getting into this bad boy. I will be using the Eduard "Danger Zone" Hobby Boss F-14 reboxing. The kit is absolutely beautiful and even with some dry fitting everything just clicks together and even has a lack of release pin markers that plagued their F/a-18d. For this built I will be pulling out all the stops as well as all the ports that the kit comes with...and some! Still undecided as to weather I will fix the wings extended with all the flaps and slates showing their red underbellies or if I will keep it simple and leave the wings swept back. One point I think is important to mention as I know some people may point it out if I don't mention, although I will be trying to create the model as close to the real thing as possible there will be an element of "Poetic Licence" regarding some parts/features/processes. I have so far been unable to find more than one picture of this particular jet, NL 212 on the USS Carl Vinson, so I am going to "assume" a few things. This mainly relates to weathering and any scratch building. With that in mind I plan to "Imitate NOT Replicate" Right enough waffling, let the games begin!! I started with an unusual point, rather than the cockpit and seats I went straight to the P&W TF-30 engine. I plan to open up some of the larger access panels around the back to show off this bad boy as well as all the other panels that kit gives you. First I need to get some strips: Followed by some dry fitting, measuring and measuring again and then a bit of cutting. Once the cutting and fitting was sorted I dove straight into the detailing. Phase one: Phase two to...well I lost count of the phases from this point but here is the result so far And then I had a final dry fit with all the extra details added: I plan to open up the largest panel on the underside of the engine to show it off a light similar to the image in the link below. http://www.aviation-militaire.com/Galerie/NAS_Oceana_98/015_07P.jpg From my research I have only ever found that when this panel is opened/removed the opposing panel also has to hang down. Can anybody clarify this for me? I would probably prefer to not have to open up the second panel. Mainly just to remove the chance of making any mistakes. if I can get away with one panel it would be fantastic! If anybody has looked at this before or has some references they can check that I don't have available to be can you please let me know? It would be a great help! Anyway, thanks for dropping by, all comments are welcome and encouraged!! Enjoy!
  22. Welcome to my latest posting- I'm going to win no prizes for speed modelling but I'm having fun so who cares! I'm working on a big long term airfield diorama project but it'll take me months/years to get all the components done so I'll post 'em as I do 'em. Here's the finished article (read down for WIP & more finished pics). I was inspired by an article by Richard Langford in Airfix Model World magazine, Jan 14 issue. The moulding is pretty ancient (I built one as a kid, it hasn't changed and I'm pretty ancient as well!) so I thought I'd have some fun super detailing it. As you can see, I got a bit carried away (considering most of it was inside and won't be seen when assembled) but it was a learning piece as much as anything, more scratch building experience and my first use of PE, which went pretty well in the end. I make no claims to historical accuracy with this model and some elements were made up as I went along, but I've enjoyed myself. DJ Parkins (www.djparkins.co.uk) supplied the PE set for the windows, doors, hand rails and watch hut and the maps/posters/blackboards etc were a custom set from Sankey Scenics. I found him on-line & asked if he had anything suitable. He does mostly model railway stuff (as well as being a professional model maker) but researched it for me and came up with a great little sheet of scale images that I've used all over the model. Check him out at www.sankeyscenics.co.uk. The sheet costs £5.00, which seemed pretty reasonable to me as he put it together from scratch. You can order by accessing the bespoke page of his website and by clicking the £5.00 button (towards the bottom). This will take you through the steps for the order. You can quickly access this by clicking the link below: http://www.sankeyscenics.co.uk/#/bespoke-items/4551163731. Based on Richard Langford's article, I fabricated a first floor out of styrene sheet, supported by styrene corner pieces. I then decided to put a dividing wall in made from more styrene and utilising a door & window from the Airfix set (redundant because of the PE set). I glazed it with clear acetate and used thin slices of Tamiya tape to represent diagonal blast taping. An assortment of notice boards, maps, pictures, chalk boards, clocks & signs were carefully scalpeled out of the Sankey Scenics sheet & glued in place. Very late in the day I decided to also build a desk/counter upstairs and some of Sankey's maps and documents decorated the surface. I decided to call it a day, furniture wise, as I had a life I had to get on with! Incredible detail on the maps & chalk boards! Having enjoyed that, I decided to build a room for the ground floor so built a floor and walls from styrene sheet and used the Airfix windows again. More posters/signs added a bit of interest downstairs. Those observant amongst you may have noticed that my super detailing may possibly have forgotten to build a staircase to get from the ground floor to the first, and then to the terrace and roof. Oops! I decided to let this one slip! I also decided to have fun with the watch tower on top. The phone was made from a bit of styrene sheet, the radio from a piece of sprue. The phone cord is a piece of thin fuse wire and the microphone boom from a slightly thicker piece of wire. More Sankey docs spread around the desks. I got a Master Tools PE bender thingy for Christmas and really couldn't figure out how it was meant to work, but a few goes with the thingy & a pair of flat jaw pliers & I sussed it! The watch tower was a bit fiddly with folds going in different directions but got there in the end with a bit of squeezing and swearing. I had to fabricate a pillar to join the edges and locate the walls as the Airfix location points were in the wrong place. The acetate proved tricky - it was hard to keep it free from scratches and glue. The handrails were an absolute bugger - microscopic folding, aligning, gluing, drilling and feeding through 0.31mm brass wire. Lots of patience required. They're not perfect but for a first go, I'm quite pleased. The stairs were also tricky, being made from folded side pieces and individual folded treads. Richard Langford suggested building a little jig, which I did and it worked well. The last thing was to slosh a load of Flory Models 'Grime' wash around the model in places where the day to day muck from a busy airfield would accumulate; on the flat surfaces, window sills, stair treads etc. Flat roofs are notorious for puddling so the Flory grime is spot on for this, although I kept it light on the higher traffic areas. The RAF figures came from a 1970s vintage Airfix set I had as a kid. They'd been painted in gloss enamels (I was young!) so I had lots of fun soaking them in white spirit and picking off the paint! Only later did I discover that Airfix still sell that set so I could have saved a lot of bother, but there's something nice about recycling a 40 year old toy! I think some of them might have come from a Bloodhound missile set - wrong decade but I think I got away with it! I chopped the bases off so they're secured with Deluxe Materials Tacky Wax - it's good stuff. Here are some other shots of the finished building: I broke the aerial thingy in the corner so had to botch up a new one from the spares box. I had to fabricate a new door for the emergency exit as the PE set didn't include one and I'd mistakenly used the Airfix door for my Amera Nissan hut! Always read the instructions! The bionic dog! One of his legs got broken off somewhere between the 1970s and today so I had to make a new one out of a piece of fuse wire! Thanks for looking and any feedback/tips would of course be appreciated. Andrew
  23. Hello and welcome to my build of a 1/48 Munitions Handling Trailer. I'll be using the Skunkmodels Workshop Missile Cart for USAF/NATO as the base for this build. That's all for now. After I have observed the ritual tradition of the sprue bath, I'll be back with some sprue shots.
  24. Hi all! I just want to share with you the things I have been doing to a 1/72 Heller F-16 A/B old issue, I got this kit to tinker with it and learn well... everything! I haven't done any aircraft modelling in a really long time and last time it was just a gluey mess with pieces of plastic attached to it. So I decided to go for a cheap kit and learn all the basic and try some advance stuff as well. This kit has raised panel lines which I decided to sand down and scribe them with a tamiya pea cutter I am also doing the riveting bit by bit using a small 0.3mm drill bit. I will get some pics when I have some more done. I also got inspired by the fantastic work of Diego Quijano detailing a F-18 also on a 1/72 scale. The more I work on my F-16 the more respect I got for the level of complexity and the attention he put on his model! I have been working during the past week in detailing the landing gear bay and getting it to a more interesting level and the original kit had absolutely no detail whatsoever. Here are some pictures of it: Still want to do some more cable work and also start working on the landing gear per se to detail it a bit more. I am also thinking in cutting some part of the fuselage to scratch build some of the internal bays. Any comments/suggestions are more than welcome. Thanks! and all the best
  25. Wanted to build the Boxer IFV, with the 30mm Lance turret in 1/35. The base kit is the Revell Boxer which will be OOB, less the wheels. So, having being pointed in the direction of the Y-Modelle 1/87 kit (thanks H-.H), I used the turret to scratch build a turret in 1/35. The base of the 30mm cannon is heavily modified from the Revell Puma kit. Still got a ways to go, but the basic shell is complete.
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