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As promised on my WIP thread, here are pictures of my summer Draken double build: First F-35 from Royal Danish Air Force using Maestro Models WDNS nose and pylons: I used Johnsons Pledge not only before wash and decals, but also for the final coat. Danish Drakens were extremely glossy since they were parked outside. And over to Austria. Here i used Aires cockpit and Maestro Models pitot tube, plus some scratch-building: Both are painted with Gunze and a little Tamiya acrylics. And to quoute myself below: What could be better than a Draken? Two Drakens!

In fact, this build is already finished, I will post pictures on the RFI section soon. But since this is a rather popular subject, I thougt that it might be of interest to post some pictures about how to adjust the small issues with this great model. Having built seven of these, I am pretty familiar with it by now... I started the project in July and my aim was to build two of the export versions, a modified Danish F-35 and an Austrian J 35Ö Mk II using these two kits ans aftermarket parts: The first thing is to cut off the elevons, they were always drooped on Drakens on ground. There are aftermarket sets, but using a fresh scalpel blade you can save lots of money: Another thing that bothers many builders is the tail cone. The fit is not perfect, but what also confuses is that the tail cone is not exactly shaped the same as the body, it is more bully, which can be seen here: But fitting the tail cone can be done without sanding. Simply glue it to the upper half of the body before joining it to the lower part. If you have cut off the elevons, you just simply can adjust the lower body half to achieve a perfect fit. The small fin air intake is missing, Just drill a hole and glue some PC strips here. When the glue has dried, just cut them off: The insert parts with the guns is another problem. They are separate parts since different versions had one, two or no guns. The upper half without them: These parts are too shallow, but using hot water, they can be bent to achieve a perfect fit: Fitting after this treatment. No sanding or putty neccessary at all! Another issue is the air intake parts. These can be adjusted simply by making the hole in the body parts a little larger (not shown) and by cutting the air intake locating pin. The outer wings does not fit perfectly, but this is also easy adjusted by making the hole larger: And finally some in-progress pictures. Aires Austrian cockpit: ...and the Hasegawa Danish cockpit (it will do since I chose closed canopy on this one) with seatbelts made from Tamiya tape. And yes, the cockpits had different colours: The Austrian HUD in Aires set is wrong, it is of J 35F/J style. So it had to be completed. The two "bars" are also missing in the kit, but are easy to add. After painting; And with decals. I used the kit decals for the Austrian one, but added the missing fin badges (one is still missing on this picture, but was added later). The Danish one has a mix of decals from the kit and from Maestro Models Danish Draken sheet. And finally the landing gears with plenty of extra details. And yes, they also sported different colours, but this time green is for the Austrian one: And as I mentioned above, RFI pictures will follow soon.

This little experimental aircraft was built to test the idea of the double delta wing that was planned for Saab Draken. The wing was in 1/2 scale, which meant that this was a really small aircraft. The model is a resin kit from Czech company Planet models. Here are the parts: Few parts should mean an easy build. And it is. But fit of the nose and air intakes are poor, which meant lots of sanding and puttying. But still, there are few parts, so although fit is poor, the build is pretty quick. One hour later, most of the model was finished: