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  1. This is my 1/6 Battle Droid with STAP, wanted to give him a more dynamic pose than the standard kit so I cut his ankles off and reworked most of the limb joints in order to give him more of a motorbike type lean. I'm really pleased with how he came out and getting the pose sorted and gluing him in place turned out not to be quite as fiddly as I thought, and I think it looks much better than the very static looking original. Heres a link to the WIP Thanks to everyone who followed along and commented, that always makes a build more fun and interesting! Here are the final pics IMG_20211018_113911098~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113858410_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113842813_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113741993_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113721210_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113658776_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113649792_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113623128_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113612545_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113533847_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113517179_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113447675_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113424045_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113408745_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113345578_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113355128_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113224428_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113112061_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113049895_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113038317_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20211018_113003001_HDR~2 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Thanks for looking, all comments and questions welcome
  2. Hi folks, well I am calling this done, I ordered some replacement shield generator towers from Shapeways, as the kit resin items were a bit fragile and crude in details compared to 3D printed ones. I also ordered a Rebel Blockade Runner and some TIE fighters that were about the size of a grain of rice! The tiny Imperial Shuttle did come with the kit, I wasn't too sure how the final display would be presented, in the end I opted for the traditional captured Blockade Runner from the original movie opening scene. But I had a bit of fun photographing the various options. Happy modelling and may the Force be with you! Finally, if you want to see the work in progress of this build, click the link below. I've also created some videos to compliment the model.
  3. Time for another build, and I'm excited about this one as its a kit I've wanted for a while. I was lucky to find this actually as I had initially found a 1/20 flaptter on t'internet from abroad but that was a total no show so with the refund I managed to snap up this kit for south of £20 which I was really pumped about and THEN totally out of the blue the flaptter turned up!!! So that freebie kit will be the build after this one Kit arrived sealed in the box, opened it up and the droid and STAP are in seperate bags, I'know its 1/6 but the size still amazes me, love a big kit! IMG_20200709_180429 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20200709_180943 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20200709_181056 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20200709_181229 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Then I got it all on the bench, and I'm starting with the droid so made a start cutting bits and smoothing nubs and gluing. IMG_20200904_191658 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20200906_113859 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Some of the bits are a sod to get together, so it was out with the clamps. Some of the bits are a bit bowed, push one end together and the other wants to open up! IMG_20200906_115419 by Nick Frost, on Flickr IMG_20200909_192241 by Nick Frost, on Flickr Because I know there will be a lot of tidying up because of the fit I decided to just throw the torso together so I'm just dealing with one larger piece IMG_20200909_193757 by Nick Frost, on Flickr So torso is together with head on, I'll get the legs and arms together next before I start sanding and filling the whole lot where needed. I've heard that these guys are a swine to get on the STAP in a decent pose due mainly due to the fixed ankles, so at some point I'll probably break them and repin the joint at an angle that will allow a more realistic/dynamic pose. I think rather than having the STAP posed bolt upright on the stand I'd like to have it at a slight angle with the droid leaning slightly kind of like a motorcyclist going into a corner. But yeah for now, next up I'll get his limbs sorted. Thanks for looking, more soon
  4. A-Wing StarFighter (01210) 1:72 Carrera Revell/Bandai The A-Wing was a minor character in the original (and best) Star Wars trilogy, appearing in the background in some of the large space battles. It has since gained a little more prominence in the new films and the cartoon spin-offs, which are numerous. It’s a small one-seater twin-engined ship manufactured (in a galaxy far far away) by Kuat Systems Engineering, and somehow finds its way into Rebel hands. Its speed and pivoting main cannons make it a useful tool that is suited for rapid interdiction and lightning strikes. The Kit This is a licensed reboxing by Revell of the excellent Bandai kit that was released in 2016, which was available only by personal import or from a grey-import box-shifter until now. This is the most minimalistic reboxing from Revell, with a sticker placed over a portion of the box showing Revell’s logo and their product code along with a few European-style descriptions of what it is – a self-assembly model kit. If you’re a Star Wars model builder, you probably know what to expect inside, and I’m one myself so I’ve already got one of the Bandai kits in my stash. Bandai have an incredible team of engineers creating their kits, who achieve amazing detail, simplicity and cleverness of construction, and skill of tooling the most stunning injection moulded kits around. They regularly inject several colours and types of styrene into one sprue with their kits that Western companies could only aspire to, which cuts down the sprue-count and makes for a less messy desk during the build. They’re also snap-together kits in essence, with pre-coloured parts that don’t require painting if you’re either a beginner, a child without the facilities or just don’t want to get the paint out. If you aren’t familiar with Bandai’s style of snap-together kits, you probably think that this renders them simplistic and toy-like. Get that mindset right out of your mind right now, as these kits couldn’t be further from that type of product. The box is pure Bandai with a black glossy surface to the top-opening box, with five sprues in cream; dull red, cream, black and clear; grey; black and finally clear red. Because the A-Wing is a compact fighter, you get the ship itself, plus a base with a Turbo-Laser Turret on a section to one side, which gives that frissant of Death Star to accompany your model. The decals are duplicated as stickers for the younger or less skilled builder, and the package is rounded off by the inclusion of a concertina-fold instruction booklet in colour. Originally, the instruction booklets were written almost completely in Japanese, but as time went on they have included more English, which is helpful to augment the visual instructions and icons that appear throughout the booklet. Construction begins with the A-Wing, which first has its cockpit made up from six highly detailed parts plus a decal or sticker (whenever I say decal, also think sticker from hereon in). The lower hull is next, adding inserts into the weapons mounts and their rear, after which the hull topside is clipped into place, with the cockpit dropped in from above. The red section of the topside is separate due to the self-coloured parts, with a separate spin behind the cockpit and the tapered apron toward the front. The spine has a three-part cream insert at the rear, then it clicks in place along with the apron into the upper hull around the cockpit tub, locking it in place. A similar red insert is fitted to the underside, and clear side panels smooth out the joint between top and bottom halves. The nose cone is red, as are two panels in the underside wings, and another red insert fits behind the tapered section under the hull. Flipping the hull over, a roll-over hoop is added to the rear of the cockpit, and a pilot figure with two small decals is popped into the seat before the clear canopy and a snap-on curved frame part. The engine nacelles project from the rear of the arrow-head hull, and have fins at an angle top and bottom of the exhausts. These have clear engine inserts with stoppers behind them for painting a fiery colour or lighting, and a two-part trunk is clipped to each side of the fins with a tiny part with two angled pipes/hoses coming out of the sides. At the rear are a pair of oval fairings with four more exhaust cups inside, the shape of which is akin to a pair of F-16 intakes, which given their kit-bashed heritage they very well could be just that. Having a second look, I seriously think they are! The twin ovals are attached to an insert with the four exhausts and are fitted together with the main engines and their fins, then are offered up to the rear of the hull to be clipped into place. The pivoting guns at the wingtips are each made up from three parts with hollow muzzles, then the three gear bay doors are clipped into place if you are depicting your A-Wing in flight on the stand, or in the open position with three two-part gear legs if you are putting it on the ground. There are plenty of diagrams to show you where the various parts should fit, so don’t concern yourself about making a mistake. That’s the A-Wing finished and now it’s time for the base and turret extension. The base has a greebly-filled surface to its single part, with an angular diagonal riser that has a jointed tip to allow the modeller to adjust the pose of their model at any time. The bases are able to be linked together by the included clips, which leads us nicely to the bonus Turbo-Laser turret that can clip onto the base, as its footprint is the exact same size as the base itself, and it also has the cut-outs for the clips. The tapering base is a single part, which is extended upward by another dual taper section that is made from four parts inserted into its flat top, and is joined by the turret at the top, which is three parts and builds up around the gun assembly. This begins with two hollow-tipped barrels that have toothed quadrants fitted on their outer edges and in between them, after which the barrels are raised to the vertical and bracketed by a two-part assembly that holds them in situ. The barrels are then returned to the horizontal and surrounded at the sides and on top by the turret shell. The turret clips into place on the top of the base, and can be rotated and elevated as you see fit – just so long as you enjoy playing with it Oh, and no, I couldn’t resist building the turret. Markings The kit is self-coloured, so technically you don’t need to paint a thing, but the back page of the instructions give you a six-view look at the model as per the box art, with colour and decal/sticker call-outs along the way. The pilot figure is also shown painted with the two tiny decals on the helmet, and there is some weathering that has been applied around the cockpit and the rest of the hull to give you an idea of what to aim for. There’s a lot of pictorial evidence out there for any other markings and schemes that you might wish to portray though, and we often see some adventurous schemes here on Britmodeller.com. Conclusion It was a gorgeous kit in 2016 when it came out, and it’s just as good now. If you’re a Star Wars modeller and want a well-detailed model of an A-Wing, this is the kit to get. Very highly recommended. Currently, Revell are unable to ship to the UK from their online shop due to recent changes in import regulations, but there are many shops stocking their products where you can pick up the kits either in the flesh or online. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  5. Hello all, These are 2 of my older Star Wars builds, my Bandai 1/144 Slave 1 and 1/72 B-wing. Since we moved early this year both kits were in boxes and only last week we finally managed to clear up some space to display all of our older builds, including Slave 1 and the B-wing. Slave 1 was built over a year ago and was my first Star Wars build, it was also my first time using the hairspray technique for weathering. The kit was painted with Tamiya acrylics and, AK medium chipping fluid was used for the weathering. The base was painted to resemble the landing platform which Slave 1 lands in Cloud City, Bespin, in the film “The Empire Strikes Back”. The B-wing was completed a short time later and like Slave 1 was also painted with Tamiya acrylics. The round orange squadron markings were painted and the model was weathered with Abteilung 502 oils. Both kits were really fun to build and paint, and I was quite pleased with the results. Comments welcome!
  6. Well, it's been a few years since Donald came into being from the JPG resin Gonk kit, and that's far too long to go without any Gonk action, so I've spent the last couple of weeks designing a 3D model in fusion 360. I've also been waiting for some warmer weather so I can get printing again, and since summer seems to have finally arrived, I fired up the Mars at the weekend and started Gonking around. The design I've drawn up is loosely based on the Gonk you see in the Sandcrawler in ANH, which is also similar to the one that's guesting in Bad Batch at the moment. Actually, the main reference I've been using is the old Kenner 3¾ action figure, which can be seen below. I've taken the dimesions for the 3D model from that action figure, but scaled up 1.6 times, which seemed like it would give me something that would roughly equate to 1/12 to fit in with my Bandai droids. Although I'll be printing out the main components, some of the smaller details will be scratch built as I still want to get some traditional modelling into the project. I started off with the feet which are modelled pretty closely on those from the action figure, but I scaled them up sightly less that I did with the rest of the figure, because at 1.6 times they looked too big compared to the body. The print lines on these weren't too bad, but I gave them a good wet sanding to smooth them out. There are still a few tiny traces of texture around the corners of the raised squares on the top, but they should look fine once I've got some primer on. The holes for the legs go right through the foot, and I'll be scratch building the legs using some styrene tube for the main structure with some wire or something similar wrapped around to create the corrugated effect. The ends of the tubes will then slot into the holes in the feet. I may add some more detailing to the feet with styrene or spare photo etch depending on whether I find something suitable. The feet are modelled hollow, which can be seen from the underside. They're done with 1mm think walls, and I added the framework to give them some rigidity. I might back fill the cavities with some lead shot to give them some extra weight and make the model a bit more stable. I was fairly happy with the way the feet turned out, so I moved on to the lower body. This too printed out pretty well, although the inset channels down each side will need some additional sanding to better smooth them out. It's sitting upside down as you're looking at it here, and the square cutout in the middle is where the legs will attach, although I'm still figuring out exactly how I'm going to mount them. The four holes are there simply to reduce suction on the FEP film when the final layers were printing and also to slightly reduce the amount of resin used. They don't make much difference on that score, but every bit counts I suppose. There should be a panel line running around the lower edge of the body, and I did add one to the 3D model, but I saved two STL files, one with and one without the line, then accidentally printed the wrong one. Since the print took 8 hours, I couldn't be bother to do it again, so the panel line will have to wait for the next Gonk I do. Again, like the feet, I designed the body hollow with 1mm walls, and added an internal framework to keep it all square while printing. The top edge and the frames look a little messy here, but that's just where the print supports have been removed. All that will be hidden when the lower body is clipped into the waist band part. The remainder of the main parts have been printed now, but I'll leave those for the next update. And, as usual with my droid builds, I'm open to possible names. Anyone who's followed any of the old builds before will know the form those names tend to take (not that I condone such flagrant ridicule of political figures, of course) GONK
  7. Hi all, this kit has been in my stash since 2016 when I bought it from a guy in Texas USA. I have only now plucked up the courage to tackle this beast of a kit! My kit is good condition; however it will still have warp issues and fit problems, it has got sharp panel lines and crisp details, which leads me to think that this was one of the first examples to be pulled from the original moulds. Obviously, I plan to light it, but I am not after a film accurate replica, I plan to just build it as a nice looking model with modern lighting added. So, I will be using a few dozen 0.5mm drills to get the windows opened up, and then I will be adding 100 metres of 0.25 fibre optic strands. I think this should give a nice scale lighting effect. I fully expect to spend about a week just getting all of the parts to fit together, also I plan to have a pole mounted through the bottom reactor dome, this will involve some tubular structure in the hull of the ship to support the model and stop any possible future warpage and sag issues. Let's hope the modelling force is with me for this build, I look forward to receiving your comments as always.
  8. And the news for us Star Wars fans just keeps getting better and better! Now AMT is bringing out a 1/72nd scale Razor Quest from the Mandalorian TV show. No more word about it than this placard on display at WonderFest this weekend. So, Revell has already announced they're doing one in 1/72nd as well. And there's also the Bandai one - but that looks a very small kit from the imagery thus far. Is AMT's a reboxing of Revell's? Is Revell's just for the European market as was their Republic Gunship? In any event, a 1/72nd Razor Crest is hella cool! https://www.scalemates.com/kits/amt-razor-crest--1355671
  9. Remember the opening scenes of Red Dwarf? A spacesuited figure is painting, the camera pulls back & we see a huge spaceship. Well, that partly inspired this build. I built a Star Wars freighter and wanted a different way to display it. I had a redundant noticeboard and an idea. Plastic card, Polystyrene foam and glue came together to create this... Here's the Squadron badge. I thought some colour might brighten things up, and then this happened. I used a Japanese wing roundel and a pirate decal plus pen & pencil. Panel lines were enhanced with acrylic pastels. The Starships all seem to have maintenance trenches. This is only loosely based on them, I just used what I had for greeblies. More greeblies. We're going from left to right BTW. No prizes for guessing what these were originally supposed to be. The front end of the Vaurbian Freighter hoves into view. Above it is a repurposed 1/350th F-5. And in this shot is the Imperial shuttle. This picture was taken before I added the F-5. See, it's back again. The F-5 and various other bits were donated by @bootneck, so my thanks to him for his generosity. Hopefully it doesn't look too far out of place. I tried to add a nav droid behind the cockpit. There's room for more ships to be attached to this, so I'll start another in the near future. The WIP is in the usual place. Comments are always welcome, and thanks for looking. Pete
  10. Hello all, I finally finished my 1/72 Bandai x-wing painted in my interpretation of Luke Skywalker’s starfighter, Red 5. All the markings are painted, no decals were used except for a marking on the inner side of the left bottom wing which can’t be seen when the s-foils are closed. I decided to do Red 5 with landing gear down and canopy open last minute, I originally planned on doing landing gear up and then using the death star base that comes with the kit, but, after some thought I decided I’ rather do another diorama base, maybe the stone hangar on Yavin 4? But that’ll take some more time to do and, since I’m doing some other projects, I don’t know how long it will take; I will post more pictures when I get around doing the diorama. The kit was painted using Tamiya, AK real colors and gunze acrylics, then weathered with abteilung oils and Tamiya pigments. I’ve used the hairspray technique to do the chipping on certain parts of the model. I had a lot of fun building this model, and I hope you enjoy looking at it!
  11. And once again, we're back in the Lincolnshire shipyards for the latest in the series of raids on the bits boxes. I had this picture board, doing not a lot on the mancave wall. What to do? Well, I seem to be in a Star Wars groove at the moment. Following on from my Vaurbian Freighter build, I wanted a different way to mount it (Ooer!) and this popped into my head. I also was partially inspired by the opening scenes from Red Dwarf, where we see a spacesuited figure painting a huge bit of spaceship. In 1/350th scale the maintenance trench is between 100mm & 28mm deep. I am Indebted to @Madmonk for these figures. Yesterday I measured up and cut some wood to make the basis of the trench. Some drilling and screwing (now then!) and we have what you can see in the pictures below... (Which I tried to post earlier but either BM or Imgur was messing about). So, Board on wall, bottle of TET and rulers to show the size. Two pieces of wood to form top and bottom of the trench. And, a section of plastic card to partially represent the skin of the ship for these pictures. I need to obtain some appropriate card (plastic or otherwise) to become the skin. Suggestions are welcome. I will probably need to scribe it and will certainly need to paint it. And a close up shot. The trench, as seen above, is 100mm in depth and height. I will use various false walls to vary the depth, and fill the result with lots of greeblies. This will not be a direct copy of a Star Wars ship, detailed reference shots seem to be few and far between. So I'm going for a 'in the spirit of' build. Something that could be. I'm not going to attempt the hangar bay, I don't know the dimensions for a start. I did think to build the entrance and use a photo behind it, but maybe not. I've made a start today by making up some sections of walls etc, The wood will be covered in 1mm plastic card, BTW. Thanks for looking, comments, as always, are very welcome. Pete
  12. Hello all, Well, this is my second post, it’s Bandai’s 1/48 AT-ST (manufactured by Kuat Drive Yards) aka Chicken Walker, I finished this one today after about 2 months of work, the whole thing was painted with Tamiya’s XF-19 (sky grey) and then weathered with Abteilung 502 oils and some pigments, the base was painted with lifecolor’s german tank brown and then I added shrub tufts from Green Stuff. I’m 14 years old and I’m still learning a lot, so any comments welcome. Hope you enjoy it!
  13. Hi all, well here is the finished build of both these great Bandai kits. I wanted the ship to appear suspended in space, so to achieve this I exited the wiring through the bow (front) section by means of a 2.5mm tube that also had a section of wire rod protruding into the hull. This tube was super glued into a 1 inch block of neoprene foam block that was glued to the back of the wall print. To create the space background, I used black corex sheet which was covered in black felt. The horizon was lit up by gluing some blue LED strip lighting to the back of the corex sheet. The Star Destroyer was tricky to add lighting that looked in scale, but I am happy with how it came out in the end. As I did with the Death Star, I scraped away the internal plastic to allow light to show through. The side trenches came in solid plastic with only minimum detailing, so I replaced them with fibre optic strand, then cut up small sections of the strands and epoxy glued them to add side detailing and still allow light to shine through. The side trenches each had some narrow-LED strip glued down each side of the lower hull sections. 2mm warm white LED's were then added to the hangar bay's areas and the upper decks, there was enough light inside to also light up the ion engines. Once the ship was completed, I sprayed it all over with black primer to light block, then a few coats of white primer. I then sealed the ship with Tamiya flat clear LP-23, finally I used Abteilung 502 light grey and Starship filth oils, mixed together to give a light wash over the whole model, followed by a final coat of flat clear. The last picture gives you a clue to my next Star Wars project which will include this picture diorama build as a backdrop.
  14. Hello, This is my first post, my dad and I are a modelling team and we enjoy the hobby together, he has been modelling since he was a boy while I just started 2 years ago, I do more sci-fi kits whilst he does aircraft kits; I completed it a few weeks ago, it’s Bandai’s 1/72 RZ-1 A-wing starfighter (interceptor, which is manufactured by Kuat Systems Engineering) from the movie “Return of the Jedi” flown by green leader also known as Arvel Crynyd, who dies by flying it into the bridge of the super star destroyer known as the “Executor”. My model was painted using mainly Tamiya acrylics and AK Real Colors acrylics. This was a really fun and easy build, like all Bandai kits it just snapped together. I really like the result and I hope you like it too. Questions and comments welcome!
  15. Just a quick build of Bandais 1:144 Tie Fighter crashed on a desert planet, undamaged solar panels scavenged for scrap.
  16. So, my second build of Finemold's 1/72 Slave 1 is now finished. This kit is actually the Jango Fett version but I've painted it here in the original Boba Fett colours. The two kits are essentialy the same anyway, with just a few detail differences between the two. I made a few modifications to the kit to bring this one closer to Boba's ship, and also incorporated some of the details that have shown up in the ship's appearence in the Mandalorian. This build turned out a little more accurate than my old one, mainly because I paid closer attention to matching more of the subtle but distinctive paint and weathering aspects of the studio model. I can't imagine that I'll be doing one of these again any time soon, unless someone sees fit to re-release the kit, so it's been fun to get the chance to revisit the kit which I originally built back in 2014. The full build can be found here And finally, the old and new ones parked side by side. 2021 on the left, 2014 on the right Thanks for looking Andy
  17. Hi all This is the 1996 re-box of the original tooling released by MPC in 1983. Kit is built straight out-the-box. Base colour Halfords white primer (spray can). Display stand Halfords satin black (spray can). All other colours and weathering hand/brush painted with Humbrol enamels with some scuffing using a worn out piece of 3M super-fine sanding sponge. Model originally started in mid 1990's but not completed before the hobby was put to one side due to work and family commitments. At the time, the bulk of the paintwork was completed using a paused VHS copy of RoTJ for referencing. Finished (finally!) late 2020 by completing the cockpit, pilot and canopy, with some minor touching in due to 20+ years storage damage. Comments always welcome Cheers!
  18. Here's another bits box product from the Lincolnshire Starship Yards. I've swapped over to the Star wars universe for this one. The Empire covers a large area. There are numerous worlds and moons, all of which require supplies in order that the people can exist and perhaps produce items or basic materials that can be used in payment for those supplies. They need an intergalactic Amazon Van. And here it is. The Vaurbians seem to have died out/vanished years ago. Mostly, just these ships remain. They are controlled by an A.I. which is in a sealed compartment in the ship. (I admit I borrowed this idea from Anne McCaffreys' 'Ship that sang' books. But, It may be a Vaurbian in there. No one knows. The main thing is, the ships are ancient but keep working. There is usually a small crew of droids or humans for basic maintenance and internal cargo movement. I like the idea that the humans are rather like old time Canal boat people and may be family units, with their children perhaps joining other ships as they mature. Though with FTL drive and associated time lapse they may never meet again! The ship is atmosphere capable and around 400 feet in length. The basic shape was a 1/48th F-18. I simply added bits and pieces here and there and faired them in with filler where necessary. The forward end of the ship is to your left. The green drive unit at the other end. The drive unit is obviously FTL capable and has been known to pull in any attacking ships. Only to abandon them in another time and place, never to be seen again. Hence the lack of armament. A view down the spine towards the nose. The odd shaped 'shields' were Airfix Railway Cement wagon parts. They reminded me of the panels on a Tie Fighter though. The round (main) sensors on the nose. There is no 'bridge' as such as the A.I. can see all, and it always knows where and when (FTL time lapse seems to be mostly ignored in the films) it is. On the belly the main landing gear doors (with lousy scribing!) can be seen. The brown round thing is the cargo bay access. It extends down to ground level. It would be about 7 meters in Diameter The cargo bay is in the middle of the ship and would be about 80 meters long. A useful amount of space. Under the nose, And so, under the tail too. Rear side view. Here we see a 1/76th truck wheel in a Gazelle Tail Rotor housing. Also a TSR2 bit and ships crane & lifeboat. And that is your lot until the next build. Any questions or offers to develop the idea for Disney are always welcome. I know the paint finish and some of the scribing is a bit'iffy', but it was a fun build and will live in the mancave forever. Thanks for dropping by, Pete
  19. Hi all, I am calling this done, not quite got it across the line for the May 4th Star Wars day, mainly due to shipping delays getting the last of my 1/144 Stormtroopers from Shapeways. I have 76 Stormtroopers in total in this hanger bay, 40 of them together with Darth Vader came last Saturday morning, thanks to Keith at Cozmic Scale models. The other 36 had a different pose and Shapeways had those. Anyway I got them on Tuesday afternoon. Darth Vader seems to have almost disappeared amongst the black flooring and lighting, but I have tried to show him best I can. I have continued the tradition of ILM by placing characters from other movies that they had worked on into the build. In the mother ship from Close Encounters they added an R2D2 on the edge of the ship just for fun. So, can you spot the Star Wars character from a later movie? I have placed it in the unlit photos to make it easier. I intend to display both this hanger bay and my recently completed Imperial Shuttle Bay together in a bookcase unit. Thanks for all the great comments and may the Force be with you always! Mystery Character Update Hi all, first of all thank you so much for all the wonderful comments on this build, it's very much appreciated. Just goes to show what you can do with a few old kits and a bit of imagination. Congrats to those of you that found BB8, yes it was staring at you in the face all the time! BB8 was in the Bandai Force Awakens Millennium Falcon kit and it sparked my memory for what ILM had done with the Close Encounters mothership. Let's see if I can hide another character in the next build. Bye for now, and may the Force be with you!
  20. A question for the number crunchers out there.... I plan to build a section of the maintenance trench that runs down the side of Star Destroyers. A sort of vertical diorama. It will be mounted on a redundant 22" x 34" magnetic notice board so it may take a while. It won't be an exact copy, but very much in the spirit of, with lots of greeblies using whatever the spares boxes yield up. But I do want to get the size about right in 1/350th scale. So, The question is, How deep/tall should it be? Does anyone out there have a Star Destroyer in whatever scale that they can measure and then convert the numbers to suit? Thanks, Pete
  21. Due to illness (and the cold in the manshed) I've been quiet on the build front for a while. However, today, plastic seems to have been manhandled (ooer) and the smell of Tamiya extra thin has wafted about. This one has been nagging away in my brain for a couple of months now, and today I had an opportunity to do something about it. I'd gotten a couple of 'spares or repair' F-18's from the bay for less than a tenner. One Esci, the other a Chinese cheapo. 1/48th scale. One of them will form the basis of the Freighter. And, you may be wondering what a Vaurbian is? Sci Fi Wikki (probably) says... VAURBIAN FREIGHTER The type K-20 Vaurbian Freighter is a rare item in the Star Wars universe. No one seems to know who the Vaurbians were, Or the location Of their home system. All that seems to remain are these ships. Which seem to be at least hundreds of years old. The Freighters are controlled by what may be an A. I. (Artificial Intelligence) built into a sealed compartment in the hull. Although it may equallly be an Alien life form or even a Vaurbian. For the sake of convenience I’ll use the term A.I. The A.I navigates and controls the ship so there is no need for a bridge. Commerce etc is handled via comms by the AI. In some ships Humans are employed by the AI for cleaning and light maintenance, as well as cargo handling. They may even be a family unit. Others use robots. The FTL drive is totally unlike anything else seen in this universe. Empire ships etc just seem to turn up the gas to number 11 and vanish. Vaurbian FTL seems to operate in a very strange way, but the AI always knows where and when it is. The drive can also be used as a weapon. It seems that no one who tried to attack one of these freighters in the past has ever been heard of again. Hence the lack of external weapons. The ships are fully atmosphere capable, so can deliver their cargo virtually anywhere. Given the size of the Empire, Freighters are always in demand. And so, some pictures of progress so far... Some boxes of bits. some of which have been donated by fellow Britmodellers. My thanks to all. More bits being kept close to hand. These will be used to disguise the basic Aeroplane (hopefully). The basic Aeroplane. The ship will be this way up, but the back becomes the front. I've made a start already, The green Gazelle bits seen here at the back have been glued on. It felt good to get something done, though I don't know when the next episode will go to press. Thanks for looking in. I hope to be back soon. Pete.
  22. Hi all, I am going to try and add lighting to both these kits, as they are both destined for another diorama project.
  23. Hi all With this model I think I am going close a 12-month period in which I am going to finish 6. Something that I have never done. Although I have some models in process, I did not feel like continuing with them, so I looked at the Bandai boxes related to STAR WARS that I have in hiding and decided on this kit. What can I say about him that hasn't already been said? Gorgeous detail, gorgeous and finely detailed pieces and a perfect fit. A candy. The construction is already quite advanced and I decided to start this post because I think I will not stop its assembly. Of its assembly I can say that it has been a suffering due to the fact that the arrangement of the different pieces has been chaotic in sprues. If you had to build a leg you had to take a piece from sprue C1, another from sprue C2, another from sprue A and two other pieces from sprue B (it is an example, it has not literally been like this). Something that has been very heavy. Well, the cockpit. I have painted it entirely using Vallejo MC paints. Andrés S. Hi everyone.
  24. Well, after searching and searching for a suitable base I have chosen to use the support of a photo frame. If someone wants to see the process that I have followed in this model, they can do so at the following link. Andrés S.
  25. Hello all, I’m about 4 months in on my Lambda now and here is the progress so far… https://www.flickr.com/photos/191884247@N07/shares/s67s79
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