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  1. Hello, colleagues! I'd like to present another model from the FROG/NOVO contest - the british naval fighter McDonnell Douglas Phantom FG.1. It is the repack of the old FROG model F262 by Industrial Group "Mir" (Minsk). As usual I built this model in "Out of the box" nomination, so no modifications to the original kit were allowed. The only modification allowed to me by the contest administration was the extension of the nose landing gear. This gives the model more "british" look. The model is of poor quality and was difficult to build. According to the rules of the contest I had to stay within the limits of the kit - rised panel lines, geometry inaccuracies and so on. So, the result is before you. It is the naval fighter XT872 005/R, Naval Air Squadron 892, Royal Navy, HMS Ark Royal, 1973. Thanks for looking!
  2. Here is my representation of HMS Courageous, a Churchill Class submarine of the Royal Navy using the recently released Mikro Mir kit of HMS Conqueror in 1/350. Built half OOB as I like the waterline look of my maritime. The only extra work done was adding the side vents and correcting the white draught marks to red, oh and adding an extra set of draught marks to the forward edge of the rudder. Depicting the boat as 'crossing the line' in 1981(ish). Short build log here: Stuart
  3. I seem to recall a few posts quite a while back asking about the difficulties of converting the Hasegawa 1/700 Mikasa to an RN pre dreadnought, and it seemed this project would be too difficult and involve too much work and surgery. I have also seen a post or two where some modellers have built the 1/350 or 1/700 Mikasa kit as an RN ship with varying, sometimes very minor or minimal degrees of modifications. I have the Hasegawa 1/700 Mikasa kit in my hands 'as I speak'! Looking through my reference library (specifically Burt's British Battleships 1889-1904 volume) and several websites,it seems that a Formidable or Duncan Class (and maybe even a Canopus Class?) could be made from the Mikasa with not too much work being involved? Or is this not a great assumption? How much surgery would be involved? Any thoughts guys? Jason
  4. Westland Lynx HMA8/MK.88A/Mk.90B (A10107A) 1:48 Airfix The Lynx began life as a European take on the almost ubiquitous American UH-1, and a replacement for the ageing Westland Wasp, but grew somewhat into a flexible and adaptable aircraft, utilising new technologies and having light weight honey comb structure in its rotor blades, cutting down on the rotating mass, which is a common goal in many spheres of engineering, not just aviation. Soon after its maiden flight it started showing its qualities, and broke the world speed record for a helicopter, hitting just short of the 200mph figure. French collaboration resulted in Aerospatiale gaining a 30% share of the workload, but French Army orders were cancelled even before the first prototype flew, although the UK still bought Gazelles and Pumas as their part of the agreement, and the French Navy were the first to receive theirs. Interestingly, a specially modified ex-demonstrator, G-LYNX set another speed record of 249mph in 1986, which still stands at time of writing. As with most aircraft in service, shortcomings were addressed, and the Naval version with the designation Lynx HMA.X progressed over the years up to HMA.8, with four additional sub-mods coming on-stream over the years, while The Mk.88 was the German specific variant, and the Mk.90 the Danish variant that was upgraded from A through B after improvement to Super Lynx standards. The oddly shaped but incredibly efficient BERP rotor blades, improved GEM engines and gearbox were introduced in the mid-80s, and after the withdrawal of the original Lynxes from service in the late 2010s, the Wildcat replaced it, based on the Super Lynx 300 and bearing a distinct family resemblance to its predecessor, although it is a substantial improvement on the original, with its angular tail boom being the quickest way to tell the difference at a glance. Only 28 were ordered for the Navy, but as they seem to offer much improved availability over its predecessor, that shouldn’t be too much of an issue. The Kit The kit arrives in a sturdy red Airfix box with a digital painting of the British variant on the front. Inside is a single bag containing five sprues of Airfix’s familiar pale grey styrene, with the clear parts bagged separately inside. A large decal sheet, a thick instruction booklet and three folded A3 painting and decaling diagrams finish off the package. The detail is just as good as when first released back in 2012, which doesn’t seem a full decade ago, but maths like that is pretty easy, even for me. Looking across the sprues, you can still see multiple layers of strengthening plates, very fine raised rivets, and recessed panel lines that should please most modellers. The detail extends to the interior, which has lots of really crisp quilted sound insulation provided. This was one of the reinvigorated Airfix’s early ‘special’ kits, and the care that has been lavished upon it shows almost everywhere you look. Construction begins with a choice of three mission profiles, the Counter Piracy and Air Sea Rescue options allowing you to use all three decal options, while the Anti-Surface Warfare option is only suitable for the British Naval decals. There is another choice available, which is the orientation of the passenger seats in the centre of the aft area. There is also the option of a winch that extends through the side door, plus two different seat layouts for the former option, equipment boxes for the British Naval option, and an additional seat in the passenger area for the two overseas decal options. Throughout the instructions you will be shown A, B or C in various combinations, depending on which option that particular step pertains to. Initially that simply relates to the 1mm holes you need to drill in the floor panel, but more on that later. The pilot and co-pilots seats give you another choice of whether you want armoured seats of the anti-surface warfare variant, or the more traditional type for the other two roles. For the standard type, they build up with separate seat cushions, mounting section, and moulded in belts. For the armoured “in-theatre” variety, a tub is built up from two interlocking parts, into which the seat cushions are placed, with the whole assembly fitted to the standard mounting frame. Separate collective and cyclic sticks are provided for the cockpit, and two instrument panels are supplied for the battle-ready decal choice and the other two choices, with different layouts and decals for each option. More decals are provided for the central console and other panels, to correspond with your choice of seats and decals. A C-shaped bulkhead separates the pilots from the rear crew, and the interior walls all get very nicely rendered quilted sound insulation panels. The optional equipment is inserted into the pre-drilled holes under the hoop if appropriate, then a trio of jump seats locate against the rear bulkhead, and the aforementioned passenger seats mount back-to-back in the centre of the rear cab in either orientation, again depending on your choice of decals. The seats have moulded in, but separated tubular legs, which is nice to see, although the seats look a little slab-like and uncomfortable for the passengers. By this stage of the build, and with the addition of the internal roof and side panels, the cockpit and crew area form a self-contained unit, which is then slipped inside the fuselage halves after some holes are drilled and the knee-height windows are installed in the cockpit, and the holes are drilled in the rear of both halves to accommodate the IR turret under the boom, along with another choice of other sensors and antennae. This is an intelligent method of constructing the cockpit, as it requires no alignment of sections inside the fuselage halves – it is simply installed and closed up, with the side-covers glued over the tops of the doors on both sides. The engine cowling is installed next, with a couple of holes drilled in the undulating cowling part before they are joined, allowing a couple of small parts to be inserted in the sides. The simple exhaust pipes make up from two parts each, and are inserted into the outlet panels from outside, deflecting the exhaust around 90o from the direction of flight. This area is then completed by the addition of the forward cowling and other fairings, which has the mounting hole for the main rotor moulded in. At this stage the fuselage has no underside to speak of, and this is supplied as a separate insert, due to the sheer quantity of detail that is moulded into the area, from tiny rivets to appliqué panels, all of which would have been impossible if moulded with the rest of the fuselage. Firstly, the twin winglets are made up from top and bottom half, and are slipped into position at an angle then flattened out before being glued into place, passing through the fuselage under the floor and covered by the fuselage lower surface. The underside part is well supported so should fit well, although as always, some test fitting and fettling of the join would be advisable before committing to glue. The nose is assembled from an optional cut-away top, underside with circular radome bulge, and two side panels to achieve a combination of shape and detail, with the upper nose receiving the electro-optical sensor turret that is made from four parts that if you are sparing with the glue, can be left to rotate in at least one direction, but if you’re a bit crafty, you could attach the turret before enclosing the nose with some scratch-built adaptations, allowing it to rotate in both axes. Another group of sensors is glued to the front of the nose, depending on which version you are making, then the whole nose is joined to the fuselage, secured on a stepped edge that should give some room for fettling to make a better fit. The large sliding doors are next, and depending on your option, you’ll use a different door with the same crystal-clear glazing part, and scrap diagrams show how the doors should look in both open and closed positions. Both doors have a small section of the corner removed to accommodate complete opening without baulking the winglets behind. The tail boom is another well-detailed assembly, so take care when aligning the seams to minimise sanding once cured – it would be a shame to lose all that lovely detail. If you are folding the tail, it has a small bulkhead in the rear, and a couple of small holes are needed if you plan to model your Lynx with the blades folded for storage, leaving the tail to be made later. For the aircraft ready for flight a separate tail with fin moulded-in is used, then the holes are still drilled if folding the blades, and a spine part is inserted into a keyed space, after which it is a straight fit to the stepped edge at the rear of the fuselage. The Naval Lynx has wheels rather than skids, and the main gear is made of a straight strut with moulded-in scissor-links, a separate hub and tyre, and these are trapped in the winglets by adding the tip fairings, positioning the wheels along the line of flight or at 45o to the direction of travel. Now comes the final fit and finish of the sensor suites and all the delicate parts that modellers so often knock off. You will need your wits about you to ensure that it all goes smoothly, and it might be an idea to make some notes on the instructions before you start, in order to reduce the likelihood of getting it wrong. As well as all the blade aerials, antennae and other sensors peculiar to each decal option, there is also the nose wheel, which is built on a shorter strut with twin hubs and tyres, the latter having a slight flat-spot at the bottom. The British option has four anti-submarine torpedoes made up from halves with separate tail fins and individual forward vanes, while the two depth charges have two-part cylindrical bodies, flat nose, tapered fins and a circular fin at the very rear. There are a pair of mounts made up for the torpedoes or depth charges against the fuselage, with another pair sitting outboard of those, meaning the crew have to dismount through the side door over the weapons. That should be fun if it’s wet. If you’re not using the weapons fit, there is the option for a door-mounted machine gun made up from a substantial number of parts, including a big ammo box and feed. It is attached to the side of the fuselage on a flat platform. The optional winch attaches to the other door in the hole you drilled at outset. The main glazing is shown added after all the fiddly bits, which might be unwise, and that has a few additional parts to detail the inside. The cockpit side doors are made entirely from clear styrene, and would benefit from painting inside before installation to prevent the exterior colour showing through the glazing, and to provide a matt interior finish. A small forest of blade antennae is fixed to the nose along with the windscreen wipers, then a representation of the mesh intake covers are added to each side of the forward cowling just aft of the main rotor, which is next on the list of things to build. The essential rotors are added last, and here you have the option to model them deployed for flight, or folded for storage. The main rotor-head is common, as are the blade cuffs, but the blades are assembled differently for each option. The blades are suitably thin, with nice attachment bolt detail, and that unusual looking BERP tip section with the slight downward kink at the very tip. There is no droop moulded into the blades, but the real things don’t droop because of their composite nature unless they’re tied down, so that is correct. A set of blade props are included with locating points on the fuselage for the folded option, which have the blades set at the appropriate angle to the shafts, and a set of diagrams showing how they fit into these yellow painted retainers. The rotor-head is based on a small circular part, and it looks like it’s possible to leave the rotors loose for transport, although a rotor that can actually turn will need a little modification to the kit parts. The tail head and stabilising fin on the tail are separate parts, and to this the composite tail rotor is fixed, which is made from the main part with moulded in blades, and a raised crown that glues into the open front of the hub. The folded tail is built from a pair of halves with a bulkhead at the front, then follows the same process as the deployed blades, including the wire bumper underneath, but fixes to the aircraft folded forward by a straight hinge piece. There is a slight glitch in the instructions mentioning that the fin can be attached to the boom in the flight configuration, but it could still apply if you’ve changed your mind since gluing the folded boom to the fuselage. Markings There are three decal options on the long sheet, and each one has its own instruction A3 sheet, with stencils that are appropriate to the aircraft’s operator on the opposite side of the sheet for simplicity. From the box you can build one of the following: No.815 Naval Air Sqn., HMS Portland, Royal Navy, RNAS Yeovilton, Somerset, England, 2017 Marinefliegergeschwader 3, ‘Graf Zeppelin’, Germany, 2018 Søværnets Helikoptertjeneste (Danish Naval Air Sqn.), 2013 Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. It includes a substantial number of instrument panel decals as well as many stencils to give your model that extra bit of detail. Conclusion The Lynx became a capable aircraft as time went by, and served in the British Navy and Army for many years before retiring relatively recently in favour of its offspring, the Wildcat. Lots of detail, a busy decal sheet and multiple operator options still makes for an impressive model. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  5. HMS Conn, Senior Officer's ship of the 21st Escort Group, in March/April 1945. Conn is flying a Jolly Roger, signifying the Group's success in sinking three U-Boats in a single cruise in March 1945. Conn is depicted in a modified Admiralty Scheme 'C', white and B55, with Carley Floats painted up in the red and yellow pattern used by some late war RN and RCN units. Conn shows most of the alterations made by the RN to the original US Buckley class Destroyer escort design. These changes included enlarged bilge keels and additional top weight in the form of 120 additional depth charges to help overcome excessive rolling in a seaway, shields to the 3 inch main armament, additional Oerlikons, a Director Tower to the bridge, and a weather shield right forward to protect a 2pdr 'pom pom' bowchaser when carried. A HF/DF aerial sits atop the mast. Other RN additions included extra Carley Floats, a 27 foot whaler carried under Quadrantal davits in the port waist, and a canvas shelter for depth charge crews just behind the after 3 inch bandstand. Snowflake Rockets are carried in the bridge wings, and 2 inch rocket flare rails are attached to 'B' gun shield. Foxer acoustic torpedo decoys sit each side of the after depth charge rails. For those who haven't followed the build, yes, it is an operating model, running two 380 Kv brushless outrunners with separate speed controllers. The basis is a fibreglass hull from Southern Cross Models based here in Australia. The entire superstructure lifts off to access the working bits and fit batteries etc. For a more detailed explanation of why I painted things the way I did and how the build came together please see the work in progress log. Thanks to everyone who followed along and answered questions or offered suggestions along the way and also for the inspiration I received from watching the completion of many other fine RN builds on the board in the last few months. cheers Steve
  6. Hello fellow britmodellers I’m new to this forum but in scale modeling I am since childhood. Of course, first models were assembled with tons of glue and were painted with brush, as a result layers was so thick that wings ended up being twice its original thickness he-he. After almost 8 years of pause I’ve decided to come back to my hobby and this time even bought an air compressor, although with Chinese airbrush (can’t have it all at once, huh?) and have made some models to practise. Most of them ended up in a trash can but some (two actually) survived and maybe I’ll show you them someday as my first steps after pause. Nevertheless, today I’m going to show you my first ‘professional’ (as I think) build. Eduard F6F-5N profipack in 1/72 scale. Build was OOB, only Eduard F6 stencils decal was bought additionally (to my surprise it wasn’t in the box, well, isn’t this a profipack?). Painted with mr.color and tamiya acrylic paints and with my new H&S ultra airbrush. Eduard’s decals with removable carrier film are thin and looking good after placing them, but stencils that I’ve bought additionally were from older series and film was quite visible on the surface of a model. So after three coats of tamiya gloss varnish there was a lot of polishing work to go. I’ve used 6000 to 8000 polishing clothe and was actually satisfied with the result. Final steps were white filter, panel wash by Humbroll, dust, sand and that was it. Hope you’ll enjoy the result of my work, Alex
  7. For some reason I don't quite understand I have been fascinated since my teenager years by helicopter cruisers. As you may recall many navies tried to build thee in the 1960's and 70's, but ultimately this class of ship became relegated to being considered a failed experiment. So, in the back of my mind I have this vague plan that I will try to build a series of these, including for example the Haruna, the Italian Vittorio Veneto, the Jeanne d'Arc. Anyway, this plan started to materialise when I got (for an eBay bargain) a Matchbox kit of the HMS Tiger, represented after its 1968 conversion to "helicopter and command cruiser". I did not really know much about this kit other than it was the only one available in 1/700. Opening the box was a rude shock. You know you are in trouble when the images of the built product in the instructions (which presumably represent the manufacturer's best hopes) look like one of those little plastic ships that we used to get in cereal boxes. The kit is ancient, and it does not lie about its origins (see first photo). This got me scrambling for anything that would help make the model look a bit more like a real ship. Fortunately I found that Atlantic models has created a photoetch set for this kit, which I will be using in this build. Well, one has to start somewhere, and here is step one.
  8. Good evening mates, to be honest, at the moment my Jaguars’ main wheel bays are a little too demanding in terms of …inspiration and I’ve ended up postponing and postponing them. Now there are a few things happening to other members that have let me understand that probably…it’s normal to loose a bit of motivation when a project is taking too long to be brought to an end. Fritag has a perseverance I admire, but we’ve just seen he just went through what first it looked like an experiment (with those PE) and it may turn out as a new job!!! Ex-FAAWAFU was a bit tired with his Sea King and is now going Through Supermarine’ production!!! Perdu is passing with nonchalance from a “Perduxbox” Buccaneer to a “Pernovo” Gannet, Martian’s putting everything else momentarily aside to start a Kamov 28. Forgetting for a moment he did momentarily put his Roc project aside to go on with what seems to have been another project momentarily put aside … the Karel Doorman’s last cruise. This last Thread , whose meaning I understood only on a second time (initially I thought Karel Doorman was a friend of Martian’s!!!) reminded me an old dream I had for a long time , but I never started for lack of …existing models in the right scale (for me 1/48). Back in 2011, on one of my many journeys to the UK, I had bought Aircraft magazine’s April issue, to have something to read in the night. ] In it there was a beautiful article about Ark Royal’s last cruise.I literally felt in love with the opening page picture ( here below ) and I started dreaming of a diorama depicting a Gannet, a Phantom and a Buccaner parked on the flight deck. All those coloured tails were wonderful and a Wessex as that depicted in the article’s third page would have been a nice addiction. At that time, I discussed the idea with my friends modellers and I must say the picture was a real success. But then, the idea only remained an idea for all these years. The “Royal Navy… air” I’ve been breathing since I joined BM and in particular Martian’s friend Karel’s thread brought the old dream back to my mind. The only thing I’d liketo avoid, is to bring the Jaguars to an end first and start working to the Ark project every now and then. About it I have a question for the well informed,: did these helicopters belong to a Squadron ? The aircraft on board the Ark during her last cruise I found what follows: 1. NAS 809 on Buccaneers. 2. NAS 892 on Phantoms. 3. NAS 849 on Fairey Gannets EAW3. 4. ??? on Westland Wessex. 5. NAS 824 on Westland Sea kings. 1. I had been waiting for years for a Decent Gannet AEW 3 in 1/48th , but finally went for the Sword model in 1/72nd, as I saw it and couldn’t resist! That was my first model in 1/72nd after more than 20 years!!! The model looks great and I thought to depict it while landing… …so I purchased the Eduard PE flaps ( I love that system and some times I’ll scratch build it for my Wyvern, which I…left momentarily aside a few years ago!!!). Of course, the fact this set is dedicated to the Revell EAW1 kit wouldn’t have been a problem…untill I heard on this version the wing was shorter!!! My wife, whom I call “Treasure” is always disappointed as she says I don’t listen to her and she’s got to tell me twhat I’ve got to do at least twice! Eduard Staff may have been listening , and that’s probably why I had a doupble copy of theinstruction sheet!!! Anyway this isn’t going to be important, as I’m not going to use most of the set!!! I also purchased the ALLEY CAT decaal sheet dedicated to thie version of the Gannet, as I heard the orignal stencils are so thin, the ay just …get lost in the decalling process. 2. The news that Airfix British Phantom’s will be released in the next few months, together with the high quality standard this glorious Manufacturer has reached in their last products, did the rest! I’ve got it on order. I also ordered Xtradecal dedicated sheet 72268, to have more choice. The Phantom doesn’t say much in the parking configuration, much better to show it ready to launch, maybe with the deck’s heat deflectors open. 3. Perdu’s Matchbox Buccaneer’s thread gave me strength and I bought aRevell reboxing of the thing. If I follow Perdu’s instruction , I can do it!!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNIrEYimmXs …sorry, but I couldn’t find the english version!!!! The only problem seems to be the decal sheet: I’ve got the Airfix sheet for 1/48th kit, but 4. Italery Wessex will be chosen to represent the SAR aircraft. About it I have a question for the well informed,: did these helicopters belong to a Squadron ? I can’t identify the crest on the top starboard (…correct…???) side, behind the cockpit. 5. Hannants seems to have only the Airfix kit on stock, which should be a new tooling. Any ideas if there’s some PE or decal suggested for the version belonging to NAS 824 on board Ark Royal in her last cruise? On second thoughts, I’m getting interested in depicting the Ark herself. The model which seems to be the closest one to this configuration of the famous ship seems to be Fujimi 1/700th scale kit. The main question mark for a project like this is: how to develop it? I mean, the first idea started from was a diorama with a Gannet, a Phantom and a Bucc as shown in the picture. This could do, with all aircraft in parking configuration with wings folded. On the other hand, these aircraft could be depicted in a quite effective “ready to take off” pose . • The Buccaneer is quite singular in both cases, ( wings and airbrake folded or nose up , ready for launch).Even showing it on the lift notfully up wouldn’t be bad!!! • The Phantom’s best configuration is with th nose gear extended , ready for launch. • The Gannet is quite singular with folded wings , hook down, open canopy and ladder out, but it’s not bad even with those curious flaps extended. Even a pre-flight configuration could be interesting , with a couple of crews and what seems to be a starter, as seen for Buccaneers too. At the moment I’ve already started cutting the Gannet’s flaps, just to discover the Eduard PEset is wrong for this model. I could still use the folding mechanism struts( if this is the right name for them!!!) and modify the flaps cut off the wings. • The Wessex could be depicted parked with folded rotor or even i 1/144 scale in the background of a Buccaneer or the Phantom ready for launch, as shown in one of the article’s pictures. • The Sea king is the less colorful of the party and is still a question mark. Suggestions are welcomed. I could : 1. build a big base depicting the flight deck for the three aircraft as in the article’s picture; 2. Build a separate base for each model; 3. Build a big base with some sort of …”islands “for each model, something like my F-15, as in the picture below.I like this idea, but room might be a problem. That’s all for now… enough written modelling , for this weekend!!! Hope I’ll soon share some real modelling. In the meantime, any answers to my questions or suggestions are welcomed. Thanks for your patience!!! Ciao Massimo
  9. No luck with any of my references or internet search in trying to find out the actual size (height) of the ROYAL NAVY titles, code number and serial number on the Lynx HAS2/3. Can anyone provide these dimensions please? Looking for the white markings on MSG finish (1990s on) and the black markings on the DSG finish in the 1983/4 timescale. Thanks Peter
  10. Finally got my hands on a 1/350 HMS Brave which I've been wanting since I got back in to modelling. This project is another of personal significance as my Dad was posted to Brave when I was born and I was the first person christened on the ship. Life at the minute means this one is probably going to sit on the shelf for a little while longer, but I'm so excited to have my return to modelling lined up after a bit of a hiatus starting a business.
  11. G'day all. It's been a while since a completion. It just so happens I reduced the stash by one this afternoon. This is the lovely 1/72 Airfix S2C Buccaneer. It's a great kit to build with only two real gripes. I found that the inserts for the exhausts at the rear fuselage required some material removal as did a small amount at the nose to fuselage join. Other than that she's in the display cabinet safely. Kit decals used as XV336 while with 800 NAS on HMS Eagle in June 1971. I opted for the folded wings and deployed airbrake not so much as a space saver, but because I think its an airframe that doesn't look too bad like this. Keen to hear you thoughts. Cheers, Mick
  12. Can anyone help with the minefield that is Royal Navy colours in 1944-45 please? My father served on board the Captain Class Frigate HMS Inman in the North Atlantic and I'd love to take a break away from aircraft and make models of his ships. Now Inman was an Evarts class versions so I've found that I'll need a USS Evarts from Ironshipwrights.com with various resin mods and etch etc. I then need to work out what colour scheme and camouflage they wore and this is where it gets tricky. I could model them straight from delivery wearing their shiny US colours but I'd ideally prefer a war weary, just completed 6 weeks at sea version from late '44. There are very few images of Inman available and some people online have said that it was an overall grey, however on the photos available you can just about make out a line / hump of colour that matches where Sovereign Hobbies publication of C.B. 3098 THE CAMOUFLAGE OF SHIPS AT SEA 1943 shows for a Captain Class (Plate 20). These photos were probably so edited / filtered during the war that it's so difficult to actually work out what they were. So I'm lost and need help – Am I looking at overall grey (507C) or White with the simplified Western Approaches pattern in B55 or is it just a poorly overpainted combination of the two carried out hurriedly in dock? The pendant number also looks very dark as I thought they were meant to not be too much of a contrast? These are the two pictures readily available - Thanks for any help you can give. Bob.
  13. The Build log is here https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235070426-1350-hms-kent-county-class-cruiser-1941/ Thanks are due to Richard Dennis @dickrd and Jamie Duff @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies for their considerable input into the Colour scheme, which differs substantially from previous interpretations. I've made extensive use of 3 D printed items from https://micromaster.co.nz/ which IMHO have set new standards in small scale detailed realism HMS Berwick, a sister vessel to HMS Kent along soon Thanks for looking Rob
  14. This is the old Revell kit build from the box, just with the addition of spares folder decals as I bough her second hand. A simple kit with minimal interior detail, but I did like the surface detail and it looks quite nice built up. I went hard with the weathering as these aircraft tended to get pretty filthy. Not a modern "uberkit" but still a nice build.
  15. Micro-Mir's 1/350 K class submarine (early), built as the unfortunate K4. The K class are often cited as technological horror stories, but the Royal Navy did eventually solve the many issues with this incredibly ambitious concept, if you count 'not suddenly sinking' as successful resolution. But it was a time when anything seemed possible and it was thought that a high speed "submarine cruiser" could make everything else obsolete. Turns out this theory was correct, but it required the power of the atom. Doctrine was the real problem - the idea was the Ks would essentially be destroyers that could submerge to lie in ambush, but were expected to fight just as much on the surface, thus the guns and deck torpedo tubes. The result was a vessel that "had the speed of a destroyer, the turning circle of a battlecruiser and the bridge of a picket-boat", and led to several tragic collisions that cost many lives. Micro Mir's K Class kit is available for rebuilt 'swan bow' boats or this version, as built. Its a nice kit with good fit but suffers from a lack of sources. The Maritime Museum plans are available online, but they don't show good external side views and depict the K's as built - modifications immediately started! There are few good photos available, by far the best being the famous photo of K4 beached showing the starboard side: The kit has the port side exactly the same, which isn't possible as the hull beam torpedo tunes are staggered. I fixed the tubes and repositioned the ballast tank openings to match other photos. The kit comes with photo-etch but its designed for a K after rebuilds that moved the 4" guns onto the superstructure deck. As built the Ks didn't have a hand rail or ladders, instead there were hand and foot holds which I drilled out. So all I ended up using was the propellers which look very nice. I also: Added flood and drain holes as required Added railings made from brass rod and EZ Line Scribed various deck details Filed out the funnels Cut out and faced the funnel wells Built the main deck hatch on the starboard side of the superstructure Added life rings per photos from rolled up brass rod. The kit's main sprue comes with guns, propeller shafts and masts, and then there is an extra sprue with the guns, propeller shafts and masts again, but better cast. All the guns are identical, so I improved two of the 4" with some small details and rebuilt the other as the superstructure's 3". The masts and shafts are nicely done but I replaced them with brass rod, using Albion alloys 0.4/0.6/0.8/1mm tube for the masts. Until rigged and painted they worked, retracting into 1mm tubes set into the hull. I painted them duraluminum to look like greased metal, but they may have been simply grey. The spread aerial was worn by on fitting out trials, I can't tell from photos if it was used in service but I thought it would be good practice. The triangle is nickel silver wire and the aerial itself 0.08 fishing line. The kit provides the bridge windows as decals, but I drilled out the round ones and built the square ones out of photoetch ladder with Krystal Klear glazing. The bridge has an interior with pelorus and hatches, but its invisible. Oddly the decal sheet has nothing that fits the name plate on the kit stand, so I used 1/72 8" RAF letters which fit nicely. Paints are Humbrol satin 123, 164 and 165 with each used to weather the others. I ignored the kit paint scheme and followed photos - K's had black decks. Flory was used for washes on the details. Note the kit depicts the submarine in an unlikely configuration - funnels up but the boiler air intake doors (between the funnels) closed. So she can't be under way. I chose to build K4 not for the famous photo, but because she lies with K17 and her entire crew just over the horizon from my house. Brave men.
  16. Modern Royal Navy Ship Decals Atlantic Models 1:600 (ATDec13) Modern / Cold War RN ships dont carry that many markings but they are there in form of Pennant numbers and other markings. Upgrade Set This small sheets provides markings for Royal Navy Pennant Numbers and Deck Markings in 1/600 scale. These are Modern style Pennant Numbers, Flight Deck Markings and Warning circles in Red and Yellow for the Airfix 1/600 scale range of ship kits, including HMS Amazon, HMS Leander, HMS Daring, HMS Devonshire, HMS Tiger and HMS Fearless etc. Conclusion Its good to see set being produced for replacement, or additional decal needs for the older 1:600 scale kits. Review sample courtesy of Peter Hall of
  17. Hi Team The Royal Navy took delivery of many LCI (L)s under lend lease LCI L 98 ws delivered in Nov 1942. There are good quality photos from IWM collections that are undated. From 1943, most RN Landing craft were painted White background with B30 or G10 camouflage etc The scheme is clearly very worn and it seems that LCI 98 was converted to a landing Craft headquarters in early 1944 It seems unlikely that the RN would have repainted the delivery scheme from Nov 1942, meaning that she likely retains US "delivery" colours. Does anyone have any idea as to what the most likely candidates are ? Superstructure ?Light Grey Hull - ?Ocean Grey Black Cat Models look likely to be doing this - so this research is prior to a likely build I'm grateful for any thoughts or insights. The system of wartime USN paint colours seem even more bewildering than the RN schemes Thanks in anticipation Rob
  18. On 20.11.1941 Lt P N Charlton flying Hawker Hurricane I (Trop.) W9327 OL*W of the Royal Navy Desert Fighter Flight intercepted and destroyed three Ju87s. Later in the same flight Charlton was hot down by a 'friendly' Tomahawk, later awarded DFC by RAF. This is my representation of Charlton Hurricane. I must thank and both @Beard and @tonyot for their help with the general appearance of this aircraft. Kit is the Airfix 1/48 Hurricane MkI(Trop.) boxing, paint is Xtracrylics, decals came from the kit or from Xtradecal generic set, the Squadron codes were sprayed using templates I made. I hope you like these rather cruel photographs.. On the shelf with Sea Hurricanes and a Martlet MkII Thanks for looking in..
  19. Morning All, I didn't mean to start this kit, its been in the stash for a while now waiting for me to build up some skills, and nerves. I was waiting for the canopy to dry before masking on a 1/48 Spitfire and had the glue and airbrush out, and I thought "let's have a look" The next thing I know the hulls been glued together... How'd that happen? I blame SWMBO, saying I need to reduce the stash, as if that's going to happen! I cannot say enough good thinks about Flyhawks kits. I've got the Aurora, Niad and Legion in the stash. They're superb examples of modern manufacturing. The go together easily, smart box layout to avoid breakage and can fit all budgets with the basic or the kits with extras. So on with what I've done. This is the upgrade kit, with photo etch included, I'll be leaving that lot till a bit later. Aurora can be either full hull or waterline. If normally go with waterline but I thought I'd have a look at what she was like with her bottom attached. 5 pieces, a bit of glue and you have a full hull and decks! Primed with Tamiya extra fine primer and then a blast of Lifecolour 507c all over. I masked off the boot topping, Vallejo model air black I think, then tried to get a good B20 substitute. I have the Lifecolour B20 but it looks far to grey. So I mixed up some Model air PRU faded blue and EDSG. After this flurry of activity I got fully carried away and started applying the AK interactive enamel weathering range to her. This is where I got to before I actually stopped and looked critically at her I really wasn't happy with the fake B20, and the Lifecolour grey kept flaking off every time I masked over it. I quite like most of my weathering, but I think I went a bit too heavy. So... Off it all came and start again. I used Vallejo model air sky grey and Tamiya XF-18. Vallejo hull red and model air black for the boot top. Gloss coats addedd in between everything. I think the sky is too light, but that can be corrected with weathering, and I think the xf-18 needs lightening up, again a bit of weathering should do this. Weathering to come on the hull. Whilst I was waiting for some of the layers to dry I made a start on the wooden decks, something I've never done before. Tamiya deck tan and wooden deck tan with a wash of AK interactive deck wash. I think I did about 5 coats of each colour, done in streaks, then gave it a wash with the AK. Think it needs lightening up, and a light spray to bring it all together. Very happy with it so far tho! We, that's a lot of waffle from me with only a few pics, double painting, and only 5 of the 200+bits glued together! This could take a while! Oh, and while I was taking a couple of these pics this morning, I couldn't help put some of the larger parts on, just to see... She enjoyed her little tour round the house, firing off broadsides as she went. We're all 6 years old at heart aren't we? That'll do me for now, up next, finishing off the deck, weathering the hull, working out if I'm going to put her in a seascape or on a pedestal(really should have done this earlier) and onto the really small fiddly bits, oh and pe..... Thanks for looking in. Geoff
  20. Somewhere in the South Atlantic May 1982... This is my 1/350 build of three of the ships in the RNs Falklands task force, there are two scratch builds, and one minor conversion, plus huge amounts of detail on all three. I don't want to think about the amount of time I've spent over the past 5 1/2 years... Starting with the complete scene: From left to right: HMS Broadsword, HMS Hermes and HMS Yarmouth HMS Hermes and Yarmouth are both scratch built from plans Weathering on both was closely based on photos from the time to get the weather worn look of two of the oldest ships in the fleet. Many of the details are from WEM and Atlantic Models etched brass sets, but I also learnt to etch at home for unique pieces including H's mast, crane, davits and some antenna. Around 230 figures are spre​ad across the 3 ships, mostly on the flight deck HMS Broadsword was a conversion of the OOP WEM HMS Brilliant kit, the main change being the funnel, plus a wealth of detailing. the seascape is modelling clay plus acrylic medium and teased out cotton wool for the foam and spray. The base was lined with plasticard to get a mid-ocean swell adding a bit more interest and action Finally for this post a couple of overhead shots, Broadsword is approaching to start taking on fuel from Hermes' starboard quarter, Yarmouth steaming past on the port-side. Both escorts are really a bit close, but the base is the largest I could fit in my cabinets (to the millimetre) and the navy have been known to bend ships every so often so it's not impossible. Next up some detail shots. If anyone has missed the WiP and would like to see the history on this one, here's the thread: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234927178-operation-corporate-carrier-battlegroup-1350 Andrew
  21. Hello everybody... Im in with an extreme rarity and oddity this time. This is my first attempt at a ship build since 1993. I will be building IBG’s excellent 1/700 scale kit. This ship has a personal connection to me as an Uncle of mine served on her during the war. Edwin Wojtas was 16 years old in 1940 when he crossed into Canada illegally and joined the Polish Navy in Exile. The Polish navy operated as part of the Royal Navy during the war. After his training he was assigned as a Fire control-man on board the Kujawiak. He sailed on multiple convoys as escort, he went to the USSR many times, Egypt, across the Atlantic, and on his final escort to Malta in June 1942. The Kujawiak was sunk in June of 1942 on her way to Malta. He survived and was transferred to the U.S.Navy in 1943. I will add more as I go through his photo’s but here are two. I will also try yo add some of his orders that I still have. Does anyone know how to add a watermark to photo’s so they cant be copied and used by others ? Id like to share but some of them may be one off’s and Id like to retain ownership. Dennis
  22. Hi all I’m almost done with my first ship build, the Tamiya 1:350 HMS King George V. It’s been a brilliant build so far, but due to my relative inexperience In the World of ship modelling I’m not really sure how to go on from here in terms of weathering and finishing the model. Could anyone give me any tips as to how to continue from here? Cheers Luke Rutter
  23. Hi everyone This is my Revell 1/72 EH-101 Merlin HM.1 representing the aircraft ZH860. The Kit had incredibly good detail, it had raised rivets along the sides of the aircraft but not the top or bottom. The fit was very good and required minimal filling and sanding. I drilled small holes into the stairs (if that is what they are called) at the side to try copy how it looked in pictures. The decals where good and conformed well to the surface detail. For weathering, I used panel liner to make the rivets more visible and oil paint to add small oil leaks and exhaust stains. I also used it look like it had been at sea for a while. Thanks for looking
  24. This project started last winter as FGR.2 XV436 of No. 6 Squadron. Then I read Aircraft Artificer Lionel A. Smith's "Phantom at sea" from the book "Phantom from the cockpit". It was "hook-up" for the FG.1 and "bolter" for the FGR.2. Lionel Smith was sent ashore to NAS Roosevelt Roads (Puerto Rico) on June 1971 when XT861 was diverted to the island to make some repairs on the "Cab". His style impressed me at once and I started to build my first ever RN aircraft. I built the model using Aires seats, jet pipes, wheels and air scoops. A lot of scratch building was required because I made the keel box and engine air intakes myself. A lot of re-scribing and rivetting was also required. Finally I painted the model with a brush using Humbrol enamels 27 and 34 and when the decals were on (343 of them to be precise) two final coats of Hu 135 was applied with a "Leonard's" brush. Weathering was made with "Caran D'ache" oil baesd crayons. As this was FGR.2 boxing the decals came from Alley Cat, Extra Decal, Hasegawa, Icarus, Impact Models and Model Alliance. It's a shame that no one provides good quality stencils for the British Phantom. Let's see some photos. I hope you like them I add a couple of WIP photos also if they are allowed to show you some details I mentioned about... Here is the home made Keel Box and engines. Intakes made from styrene sheet, Milliput, a pair of surplus tanks and Compressor wheels. The air brakes were closed in parked aircraft but this was too good a detail to miss... Note also the scratch built Auxiliary Air Door. Best Regards, Antti
  25. I started building this Seafire as part of the Spitfire and Seafire Group Build but unfortunately ran out of time. At last I have managed to finish it. Supermarine Seafire NN341/3A 886 NAS 3rd NFW Lee on Solent June ‘44 Lt RM Crosley ‘D’ Plus 1, Wednesday 7th June ’44. “Lo and behold I saw another one like the first (Crosley had tried to stalk an aircraft a few minutes before), heading in a straight line for Deauville. This time I determined to take a good overtaking speed to make sure what he was, quickly. The top of the cloud was about 2000 feet below me and with 18 pounds of boost, everything shaking and clattering at about 360 knots on the way down, I was catching up fast. I still wasn’t sure whether he was one of ours. I got in behind him, very close indeed before I saw the black crosses on the side of his fuselage. I skidded behind him again as best I could without wasting time. He still had not seen me, but there was not much time left as I was going too fast for comfort and was overtaking him. I pressed the gun button at about 150 yards range for about two seconds, seeing many hits with the cannon on his wing and port fuselage. I pulled up to the left to avoid hitting him. I also felt as if he might have a number 2 up-sun of me, ready to pounce. I still could not understand how anyone could be so stupid to fly alone in full view of everyone above him and towards a beach-head crowded with our own fighters, unless he was a decoy”. “I reversed the pull up and had a look for him. I just caught sight of him, end on, before he hit the ground at the edge of the cloud cover, 3000 or 4000 feet below”. “I flew back weaving all the way expecting a furious German to come at me at any moment”. “On landing I found that I had only used 20 cannon rounds per gun”. RM Crosley ‘They Gave me a Seafire’. Kit:- Special Hobby 1/48 ‘Eyes of the Fleet’ boxing. Paint:- Xtracrylics, Tamiya. Decals:- Kit & generic Xtradecals set. Thanks for looking in..
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