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Completed Model Post. Here are some pictures of my model of HMS Phoebe, a Towed Array Leander class frigate as she was in 1989 when I served on board her for my Apprentice sea time. The model is a conversion of the 1:600 Airfix kit with White Ensign Photo Etch detailing and some scratch built enhancements. A detailed build log can be found here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234976345-hms-phoebe-f42/ Enjoy.

The 1/48th scale seaking released by Airfix is truly the best model kit I have ever built. I have been very pleased with the quality and the fitting. I was that pleased with the kit I have gone to purchase two more! The Seaking HAS 6 is a special aircraft to me as it was the first model I remember my dad building when I was a child. I remember seeing my dad complete the 1/72 Revell Seaking and even placing it on a tidy little base. I never told him but I always wanted it! But it was this model that got me involved in the hobby and with the latest release from Airfix, I knew I had to do the flying tiger scheme! I was also encouraged by content creators such as Mach models who posted their Seaking builds and gave me the push to build. Unfortunately I only started taking pictures once I sealed the cockpit , enjoy.

I'm calling a halt on this one for now, although I have thought up a lot of additional details I would like to add in due course. I haven't named her as any specific Astute as there do seem to be a lot of differences between them. Noting that the 6th boat, AGAMEMNON was commissioned by HM The King yesterday, perhaps she should be AGINCOURT / ACHILLES, or looking at previous A-Class names, ATLANTIS ! Taking pictures of such a large model has proven to be a challenge - so apologies for my back garden's appearance in these ones! This is my 1/72 scale Astute Class Submarine - 3D printed from PLA resin. For me, as someone who usually builds aircraft models, it's huge - 1.36 metres or 4ft 5in. I wanted 1/72 to match the aircraft (I envisage a diorama of a highline transfer from a Merlin at some point). It came in about 9 major parts that I assembled using CA Gel glue, then brush painted with (mostly) Revell enamels. The STL files were aimed at a much smaller scale, so some of the detail (e.g. on the casing) is a little oversize, although perhaps not as much as I originally thought. I've left the fin cap detachable for now as it is clearly the most vulnerable bit of the model and I do intend to transport it around a few model shows. This was a first attempt at printing something large where shape accuracy was important, all of which was done for me by my brother and his mate, so I'm afraid I can't answer any detailed questions on it. It's heavy, so we are not (yet) sure it would float, or indeed how the PLA would react to water (its quite porous). Something to find out in the future !!! ... and some scratch built TLAMS to arm her with:

This is my third Illustrious class model,Here is HMS Victorious work built from the Flyhawk FH710158.The Flyhawk kit feels soft as usual.With great details, but it requires extremely careful work,so I decided to keep only the basic parts,such as hull and birdge.Other AAs parts may come from Niko or Aoshima, all the aircrafts from Flyhawk FH1171, and electronic equipments on bridge from such like Lion Roar, but there is no 3D parts this case. This model is portrayed when her formed part of the TG 62,during OPERATION BANQUET.HMS Victorious carried strike group composed with 1834 1836 Squadron,(Corsair) ,822 Squadron(Barracuda). I've always preferred the Barracuda,they looks far more aggressive than the TBM.Compared to HMS Indomitable, the Corsairs of HMS Victorious almost become the iconic of the BPF/BEF,especially the Aces of 47th NFW,such like Ronald Hay, Leslie Durno, and Don Sheppard. This time also got Captain Michael Denny, and Kenneth More who later became actor. HMS Victorious is very lucky ship,Hope you enjoy~ and good luck.Thank you. Vic Formi Indo

Hi there. A post from Japan. Please have a look at my painstaking jobs to build a mighty Hood. I love this ship quite a lot. Thanks.

Another ship started. Yes I know I haven't finished Nubian, but I will... eventually This time I am working on HMS Ilex. I will try to make her in the outfit she was around Matapan. @dickrd teased me with awesome scheme she had in 1940 (so maybe at Cape Spada as well?) but as he can't post full photo online, 1941 will it be. After looking through photos, I noticed that I bought wrong box, or more precisely, I should have bought Glowworm box as well to mix&match necessary pieces. I am still considering that option, though most probably I will draw and print necessary parts. I will be working based on @dickrd suggestions posted HERE (Thanks!), some photos I managed to find, plans of HMS Icarus found HERE and WoWS model of HMS Icarus. Sorry for poor photos, I am not at home and lack proper lights. So far I put hull pieces and main superstructure together, filled the holes around superstructure and made early aft deck for forward superstructure. I also reworked the reinforcing ribs for forward part of superstructure deck. I removed paravanes, Will be replaced with better alternatives (If I have enough then Flyhawk if not I'll have to draw&print them too. Bridge area detailing: I used print of my DCT and compass platformplus some scratch building with paper and plasticard. Still to do side balconies for signal lamps and some other small details.

She is finished build thread, such as it was P

HMS Ark Royal 1/700th, on February 8th 1963 she was used for the first VSTOL trials when a Hawker P1127 made its first landing then take off from a carrier at sea flown by Hawkers chief test pilot B. Bedford, eleven days later 801 Squadron brought their 8 brand new Blackburn Buccaneer S1s aboard for two weeks of deck trials but as her crash barrier was not strong enough she had to stay close to airfields ashore, after this she resumed her normal carrier duties, this was her first commission with helicopter spots and the tiny letters were for her deck marshals who guided the new Westland Wessex helos down, deck tractors were the Tugmaster Mk Is

This is my build of HMS Belfast as she was at the sinking of the Scharnhorst in December 1943, she sits in my collection alongside my Sheffield and Jamaica at the same engagement, but more of that in a bit... I'm relauctant to give Trumpeter too much credit for this one, by the time I'd fixed all the issues and errors, I think I'd have been better off scratch building this one. As usual for me, I made great use of aftermarket - Northstar, L'Arsenal, White Ensign and 3D printed, along with a fair amount of scratch work. Paint is all Colourcoats. And with the rest of the fleet: Front to back - Jamaica/Belfast/Sheffield Left to Right - Jamaica/Belfast/Sheffield Andrew

I must admit this is an older build of mine, dating back 10 years. It was my contribution to an F-4 Phantom group build of the German modelling forum "Modellboard". Thoroughly enjoying this platform here, I thought I should pay tribute with a British jet – and I always enjoy jets with a special story: I've always been fascinated by the Royal Navy Phantoms of HMS Ark Royal. Therefore, I chose a British Phantom for my contest entry. During my research, I came across a story from the tradition of "zapped aircraft" – aircraft that were partially repainted by the ground crew as a prank. This involved, for example, planes that landed on the wrong aircraft carrier. In my case, I want to represent a Phantom of the Colonial Navy. For the representation of the "Colonial Navy" British Phantom in "my" 1:48 scale, I chose the Hasegawa "British Phantom" kit in 1:48. As extras, I bought the AIRES cockpit for this kit, Eduard masks for the canopies, AeroMaster decals for my desired aircraft, and turned pitot tubes from Air Masters. Here are some rather old pictures, taken in the basement. I thought about doing proper pictures again outside, but I guess what's done is done

Wow, my second roll-out this year! I started the Sea Harrier during my last "basement episode" and then turned away in horror. Two years later, the kit - about 20% finished and an absurd collection of gaps and inaccuracies by design - ended up back on the bench after my Starfighter comeback. About the original: I clearly remember the HMS Invincible visiting our Hamburg harbour in 1985. I was 12 years old, and together with my older brother, I went down to the Überseebrücke (where visiting ships lay) for the open ship event to check out the carrier and its aircraft. I bought posters of a Sea Harrier and a Sea King on board—those hung in my teenage room for quite a while. I no longer have the posters, but this model is meant to represent that Sea Harrier. About the build: Well... It's Kinetic. It's done now, but it was quite a rollercoaster. The manufacturer doesn't make things easy. The instructions are vague, especially when it comes to placing small parts. The small parts themselves are vague in their idea of what "fit" is supposed to mean. I used some Eduard help to add detail, like the Sidewinders, an interior set and canopy masks. About the screw-up: The Sidewinders. WRONG SIDE. Grrr... The twin launcher from the port side belongs on the starboard side, and vice versa. But everything was so well glued that I didn’t want to risk tearing it apart. Well, I did try, but that just invited further disaster. So now it stays as is—looks like the weapons tech messed up. Oh well, I’m sure the folks in Hamburg won’t notice during open ship. Other mistakes: Yeah, there are more—and the error rate seemed to rise the closer I got to the finish line. But now the aircraft goes into the display case and makes room for an old Revell Do-28.

Hey all, back in 1999-2000 I served onboard HMS Westminster. As like many others, I was ecstatic when Trumpeter finally released a kit of the ship which I promptly purchased over a decade ago and spent a few years on and off making. It took so long to finish the model that she'd been in refit during the time and was fitted with Sea Cepter and Artisan! Sadly, when I moved a few months ago her display case was dropped and she sustained catastrophic damage (much of the PE was bent out of shape, making repairs very challenging). So I decided to get a new kit and remake her with her the final fitting she had before sadly being removed from service. I've purchased the Atlantic Models Sea Ceptor upgrade kit as well as the WEM PE kit. I've not really seen any builds with Sea Ceptor yet, so this will be quite fun to make. In the time since I made the model below, I also began to use an Air Brush with acrylics (I used to use brushes with enamels), so it will be interesting to see how the model comes out. Below is the original model I made before it was damaged. I'll be using it as a donor kit for some parts, such as the DLF and additional life raft canisters, I then plan to strip it down and heavily weather it to look like the ship in mothballs, which will be a nice way to test some weathering techniques.

Hi! I am planining to build model of one of those cruisers in 1941 outfit starting from Flyhawk Ajax. I think Ajax would be preferable as I have more and better photos of her camo scheme, She seems to be the more difficult of the pair as she was rebuilt following the damage sustained from Graf Spee, receiving tripod masts. I also seen suggestions there were some changes to the deck housing 4in turrets. Orion was rebuilt only after the damage she suffered on 29 May 41 so it seems she should be easier of the pair to convert to 1941 outfit though I have only one photo of her in 1941 camo.

Somewhere in the South Atlantic May 1982... This is my 1/350 build of three of the ships in the RNs Falklands task force, there are two scratch builds, and one minor conversion, plus huge amounts of detail on all three. I don't want to think about the amount of time I've spent over the past 5 1/2 years... Starting with the complete scene: From left to right: HMS Broadsword, HMS Hermes and HMS Yarmouth HMS Hermes and Yarmouth are both scratch built from plans Weathering on both was closely based on photos from the time to get the weather worn look of two of the oldest ships in the fleet. Many of the details are from WEM and Atlantic Models etched brass sets, but I also learnt to etch at home for unique pieces including H's mast, crane, davits and some antenna. Around 230 figures are spre​ad across the 3 ships, mostly on the flight deck HMS Broadsword was a conversion of the OOP WEM HMS Brilliant kit, the main change being the funnel, plus a wealth of detailing. the seascape is modelling clay plus acrylic medium and teased out cotton wool for the foam and spray. The base was lined with plasticard to get a mid-ocean swell adding a bit more interest and action Finally for this post a couple of overhead shots, Broadsword is approaching to start taking on fuel from Hermes' starboard quarter, Yarmouth steaming past on the port-side. Both escorts are really a bit close, but the base is the largest I could fit in my cabinets (to the millimetre) and the navy have been known to bend ships every so often so it's not impossible. Next up some detail shots. If anyone has missed the WiP and would like to see the history on this one, here's the thread: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234927178-operation-corporate-carrier-battlegroup-1350 Andrew

My first surface ship and first go at an ocean. I'll be doing more, a nice break from a lifetime of aircraft. White Ensign PE set. Inspiration for ocean and technique credit to "Studio Blue Ocean" of Youtube Things I have leaned from this project 1) rigging is hard 2) I still hate photoetch 3) creating the sea was as satisfying as the ship, but I unsealed her, ripped her out and repainted the hull and the entire sea 3 times before I was happy. I know she is supposed to fly a black flag from the rear mast but I forgot. I will get around to it! Shot against white card outside with sun dipping in & out of cloud, the white balance was doing odd things but you get the gist. Thanks for looking!

Hello Everyone, This one is going to be my main project. I was recently sent this kit by a very good friend of mine, who knew that I wanted to build another one especially after I saw the last James Bond movie, No Time To Die. I have previously built an Airfix 1:350 Type 45 destroyer kit as HMS Daring when the kit was first released and had always meant to build another one to go with my few other Royal Navy warships models (HMS Illustrious, HMS Turbulent, HMS Astute). This build has not been started yet (except for washing and priming the sprues), so I will post some photos of the untouched sprues and then include photos of the various build steps as I go along. I will most likely start the painting and building process tomorrow. All the best, Rick

Final completion for 2023, just beat the clock. Kinetic 1/48 Sea Harrier FRS1, 899 NAS Royal Navy 1988. Completed with the addition of a resin Mk10 seat from Pavla, resin wheels from Reskit, exhaust nozzles from Eduard and pitot from Master. Kit decals and SMS lacquer for the Extra Dk Sea Grey. Scratchbuilt FOD covers to finish her off. I took some liberties with the the markings. XZ455 was credited with two Dagger kills in the Falklands, the first by Flt Lt Penfold. It is unlikely that the aircraft would be carrying these markings in 1988 but I wanted them on so they're on. Here's some pics of the finished product. My #7 for the year. Cheers and Happy New Year.

I am a British royal navy enthusiast from China, after seeing the airfix 1 / 72 FG.1 kit and Buccaneer s2c kit, I decided to make a 1 / 72 ark royal IV hangar and lift scene platform, I am ready to use 3d printing technology to complete it, so I need data and image modeling, but I can hardly find the ark royal IV blueprint, and more detailed hangar and elevator photos, I hope someone in the BBS can provide some information, help me complete this project.(My English is not very good, many forgive me)🫡

Hello all, I finished this yesterday after a couple of months working on it: Hasegawa's 1/48 Phantom FG.1. I actually used the 111 Sqn/Black Mike boxing, but wanted an early RN airframe, so managed to get hold of some Hasegawa decals from the 2008 Ark Royal edition. They weren't great, so most of the larger markings have been masked and airbrushed, including me replicating the incorrect letter spacing in the ROYAL NAVY legend from the decals. The roundels are from Aeromaster. I chopped the serial up so I could model 010/XV588, which was not provided. There are a few modifications - Quickboost seats, Aires wheels (painted the wrong colour!), rebuilt fuel vent mast into a 'v' shape, anti-collision light cut out and made from clear UV resin, and braces between the splitter plates and the fuselage sides added from strip styrene. I don't like pylons, and since RN Phantoms often flew at air shows with them removed, decided I could leave them off. Because Hasegawa moulded the recessed detail incorrectly on the underside of the wing leading edge, I also painted this incorrectly. I enjoyed this build, especially the challenge of the multi-piece canopy and filling the shutlines with CA before rescribing them all. This is the tenth Hasegawa 1/48 Phantom I've made, and hopefully the last. I hope a full build article will be published in due course. More photos at https://jonbryon.com/hasegawa-1-48-mcdonnell-douglas-phantom-fg-1-2/ Comments welcome and thanks for looking. Jon

Hello everyone, Im thinking of building a ship in the “Golden age of Transport” group build. I normally build wingy things but feel like doing a ship for this era. Im looking for answers to which 1:700 kits most likely. Though the old revell 1:426 Arizona may be a possibility as it’s cheap and can be found relatively easily. I want to build either the USS Texas, USS Arizona, or HMS Hood, Iron Duke, or Royal Oak in 1932. So question #1 would be what are the best kits ? Question #2 best paint colors for these ships? I know there is some contention to Arizona’s colors in 1941 but will not be worried about this as this is long after I wish to model. I will build a 2nd Arizona someday in 1941 colors to reflect her last days. Thank you in advance and I will leave a link in case anyone is curious. Dennis

I've got the chance to pick up this Tamiya kit pretty cheap but want to know how well it builds and if it's worthwhile adding it to my stash? As a much younger model maker I was bought an Airfix 1:24 scale Harrier GR1 kit that was more complex than my skill level at the time and I didn't do the model justice and never completed the kit before losing interest in modelling for 30 odd years. A loft clearout resulted in that half botched kit being dumped. However, since getting back into the hobby, I've always wanted to build a Harrier once again and finish what I started as a kid. Is this a good one to try? TIA all, Morfman

Hello everyone, A few years ago I built HMS Illustrious escorted by HMS Kent; I thought I'd try a 'then and now' and build HMS Ark Royal escorted by HMS Zulu. They'll be in the med shortly before Ark Royal was lost, I think that's plausible as they were both stationed there. I've been gathering bits for the last year or so and am finally ready to start putting them together; Got some bits from Micromaster, which are absolutely beautiful, along with the detail up set from Tetra Model Works for Ark Royal and the WEM set for Zulu along with a quad 2pdr from North Star. Also the Ark Royal boats set from Atlantic models and some replacement 4.7 inch turrets from Shapeways along with a few 3D printed bits and bobs of my own design. When I built HMS Hood I made a spare 4 in gun mount for the X position on Zulu. One thing I'm struggling to find is individual PE ladder rungs in 1/350 - I've seen them before but can't find any at the moment does anyone know where I can source some? Going to be a long build, but hopefully I'll be able to make a start next weekend, probably on Zulu first. Cheers Nick

Hawker Hunter FGA.9/FR.10/GA.11 (A09192) 1:48 Airfix Arising from a post war specification during a period where the prevailing government thought there wouldn’t be another conflict for a decade or more, the Hunter took some time to develop into the aircraft we know and love due to the rapid development of aviation at the time, and a constant search for better performance. Eventually, the Hunter F.1 reached prototype during the scramble for capable jet aircraft at the time of the Korean war. The F.1 morphed into a single F.3 whilst still developing rapidly until the F.4 came along with additional fuel tanks in the wings and a more powerful variant of the Sapphire engine. Development continued apace with the F.5 following on with another variant of the engine, and so it went on into the F.6, some of which were later converted into the new FGA.9 ground attack Hunters for service with the RAF. They were given heavier controls to make them easier to fly near the ground, fuel tanks under the wings, and more powerful engines. The FR.10s were reconnaissance airframes that were again converted from F.6s, adding cameras and the majority of the same upgrades as the FGA.9s apart from the control optimisation because it wasn’t required. The Royal Navy took on a quantity of converted F.4s as Weapons Training GA.11s, but seemingly contrary to their intended use, the guns were removed along with their troughs, however an arrestor hook was added, with forty taken on charge for this role. The Hunter was a much beloved aircraft by ground crew, pilots and airshow visitors, remaining in service as a trainer after it was replaced by the Lightning, Phantom and Harrier, which its adherents would cite as a sign of a great aircraft that took three types to take over its role. Whilst it’s an over-simplified argument, at the time it probably had some legs. Most of the remaining airframes were retired from the training role once the Hawk T.1s came into service, with a few remaining in specialist roles as development aircraft, the two-seat T.8Ms in Royal Navy service being amongst the last to retire. We’re lucky enough to still have a few flying examples in the UK, so we can enjoy the distinctive “blue note” of its engine at airshows. The Kit This is an additive re-tooling of the F.4 kit and arrives in Airfix’s red themed box with five sprues in grey styrene, one in clear, a large decal sheet, instruction booklet in spot colour, with painting and decaling guides at the rear in colour. If you’ve seen or already own the earlier kits you’ll know what to expect in terms of detail, which is good, and extends to all the usual places of interest around the airframe. The three main sprues are unchanged, but two additional small sprues have been added to this boxing with a pair of new exhaust fairings that we’ve seen before, as well as two extra nose cones, exhausts, air-brake, drop-tanks and other sundry parts. Detail is just as good as previous editions, but they look crisp in the darker grey styrene that Airfix are using now. Construction begins with the two-part seat chassis, which has a choice of cushion with moulded-in belts or without for those wanting to provide their own. A headbox top is fitted with yellow and black striped pull-handles, then the cockpit tub is made up from a rear bulkhead plus added cross-member, seat-rail, cockpit tub, control column, diagonal lever, instrument panel with decal and a gunsight. The coaming is moulded into the fuselage, but the beginnings of the nose gear bay is attached to the underside of the cockpit tub beforehand. To prepare the fuselage for closure you need to add a small insert in the rear along with sanding a pit behind it, add a couple of outlets under the wing root, and drill a 1mm hole nearby. The remainder of the nose gear bay is fitted after the cockpit is inserted, consisting of two parts within the ribbed nose. A bulkhead with a representation of the first compressor blade of the engine is fitted after being painted a silvery colour aft of the wing root cut-out, and then it’s a case of making up the two trunking halves that form a Y-shape inside, and direct the air from the wing root intakes to the engine for compressing, mixing with fuel and igniting. The auxiliary outlets and drilling of holes are repeated on the starboard fuselage half, and a pair of cylinders on a rack are attached to the nose gear sidewall after which you can close the fuselage. If you’re going for an in-flight model, there are two small holes on the underside that should be opened for the Airfix stand (sold separately) before you apply the glue. You’re advised to place 20g/1oz of nose weight behind the cockpit before you close the fuselage, so don’t forget, and maybe add a few extra grams for good luck. For decal option C, the gun troughs should be filled and sanded to the shape of the surrounding skin, as the Navy airframes didn’t carry guns. Two choices of exhaust trunking and rear engine face are supplied for the variants, with appropriate rear fuselage insert halves, which is to cater for the differing exhaust and cowling sizes between the marks. The insert is glued in place under the tail, laying the full-span upper wing halves over the depression in the fuselage top, drilling a pair of 1mm holes in the outer panel either side of the dog-tooth panel’s cut-line that’s for earlier marks. The lower wing halves are separate, and you have a choice of holes to drill, depending on what you plan on installing under the wings, adding closed gear bay doors if you are making an in-flight model. Another bay door is fixed over the nose gear bay, and slim splitters are added to the outer section of each intake. For the wheels-down model, the three main bay walls are arranged round the moulded-in detail, and a small vane is inserted into a slot in the upper intake lip. For both options, there are a couple of pre-marked holes to drill out if you are fitting the drop-tanks before you close up the lower wings. The separate rudder can be deflected 20° to port and starboard, while the elevators are each single parts that slot into the tail fin with no options for deflection. You can however deflect the ailerons and drop the flaps by 13° either way and 80° down respectively, and add the triangular insert between them, repeated on each side. Decal option C’s parts are slightly different from the other two options, and those are covered in the steps after options B and C. Providing you’ve not elected to close the gear bays, it’s now time to install the landing gear struts, beginning with the main legs that fit into a recess in the outboard wall of the bay, adding a retraction jack and a prominent rib at the same time in each bay. There is an additional scrap diagram showing where the retraction jack and rib sit within the bay to assist you in getting it right. The lower bay door is captive to the leg, and the two additional doors fit into the bay edge at angles, referring to in the scrap diagram below for alignment and angles, while the inner bay door is slotted into the inner side on two sturdy hinges. The tyres are separate from the hubs and have slight flat-spots moulded in that will automatically fall into the correct location on the ground due to the keyed axle on the leg – a nice way to simplify your task. At the front the yoke is formed from two parts trapping the single-part wheel in place, with bay doors and a retraction jack fitted to the front and rear of the bay, attaching the rear bay door to the leg by two links. While we’re in the vicinity of the nose, the two “Sabrinas” that collect the spent cannon casings to avoid them being ingested by the engines are clipped into position on their two holes for options A & B, one each side behind the gun troughs. Moving further back, the semi-conformal air-brake has its hinge fairing added first, then you can either lay it flat for retracted, or add the jack and deploy it for extra visual interest, having a choice of two – C being the odd one out as you might expect. Option C also gets the arrestor hook behind the air-brake to reflect its RN ownership. There are two types of drop tanks, both made up from two halves plus a separate pylon each, the one with fins being suitable for all decal options, while the others are only for A & B. They fit into the holes you drilled in the lower wing earlier, the finless tanks having an anti-sway brace to keep them stable. One option for completion depicts the aircraft with four tanks , two of each type under the wings, while the other has finned tanks on the inner pylons and three-part rocket pods on the outer, which is correct for option C. The wings are finished off by adding the tip lights, with the port one having the pitot probe inserted between it and the wing, so be sure to fit that first. A blade antenna is fitted behind the cockpit on the spine, and for the first two decal options there are a pair of blisters applied to the upper wings in the dog-tooth section where you drilled the holes earlier. You then have a choice of a single-piece closed canopy, or a two-part open canopy, which slides back as far as the antenna location, and remember – there’s no frame at the rear of the Hunter’s canopy, so don't paint one or the purists will lynch you. Markings There are three decal options on the sheet, one for each of the three variants, with each one allocated a full page in colour to assist you with painting and decaling, while the stencils that are common to A & B variants are dealt with on one page, and C on another, both in black and white and without other markings to reduce distractions. From the box you can build one of the following: Hawker Hunter FGA.9 flown under Tower Bridge by Flight Lieutenant Alan Pollock, No.1 Sqn., RAF West Raynham, Norfolk, England, April 5th 1968 Hawker Hunter FR.10 No.4 Sqn., RAF Gütersloh, West Germany, 1961 Hawker Hunter GA.11 Fleet Requirements and Aircraft Direction Unit, RNAS Yeovilton, Somerset, England, 1976 Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin gloss carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion A modern Hunter FGA.9, FR.10 or GA.11, that’s just as good as the other two variants we’ve had from Airfix over the last few years, consigning more old Academy kits to the back of the stash or the nearest second-hand kit dealer. Incidentally, there is a special edition with commemorative coin included that should look nice near your model or on the base once it is finished. It’s a free option, but in case you don’t want one, we’ve included links to both it and the kit on its own. Very highly recommended. With Limited Edition Collector’s Coin Just the Kit Review sample courtesy of

Fellow Modellers.. Here's my Revell 1:72 Royal Navy Gannet T5 circa Culdrose 1964... This kit i got from a friend of mine. Some bits on the sprues were missing .I decided to do it 'Wheels Up' as a different pose to my usual wheels down. The kit plastic was a bit soft and not willing to take a decent sand and polish .. it's not to my usual standard but hey .. you can't make a winner every time.. " A man's gotta know his limitations" The Flouro orange was the thing most daunting. I elected to use an old Humbrol Gloss Orange No 209. My Dad used this to paint his fishing floats..it' looks ok i guess.. I did a De Haviland Airfix Vampire in RAF Training colours recently also.. This had rather thin and fragile Orange panel decals.. I brush painted it all.. Anyway mistakes and missing parts besides.. i hope you like it! Here's a pic for comparison with the Aifix Vampire i did previously where the Orange Dayglo is decals.. Regards, Andy