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  1. Hi everybody, For starters, i conflated the H.P. Victor with the VC10. It was the Victor that was called the "Iron Duck" , and not the VC10. I have flagellated myself appropriately, and made the corrections where needed. Most of you know that i recently finished my first airliner- the Roden 1/144th scale Super VC10. For those of you who want to go directly to the end result, go here: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235113603-iron-duck-final-report/#comment-4467887 And for those who wonder about how i go about building an airliner model (badly 🤣), go here: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235103625-iron-duck/#comment-4279708 So Anyway....as G-ASGH was approaching completion, i went and did a thing. Yes, i went and started another Roden Super VC10. Some of you might be asking, "David in the name of God, WHY??" Well the reason is because over the course of the build, new information came to light on the VC10 that was received too late to implement on -ASGH, and there were some techniques/aspects to the build that i was either not satisfied with, or not documented appropriately at the time. So, this thread won't go into the mind-numbing detail of IRON DUCK. Rather it's intended to expand on just the places where i (think) i can do things a little bit better and cleaner. It won't have quite as many photos or quite as many updates, but i think the information will still be useful. The first thing that i decided to tackle were the fuselage windows. As some of you know, they were something of a disaster on the first model, using the kit windows and then puttying over them with Tamiya putty (which then pulled out during the masking and painting phases). On this second model, i attempted to fill the windows from the inside using epoxy with tape on the outside to hold it in place. Sounded like a great idea in theory, but in practice i was left with numerous air bubbles which needed to be filled with CA after the tape was removed. The windows are now all filled and they are all flush... but i am still searching for the best, most perfect, most-can't-fail-sure-fire-way method to fill the windows. Next up was the vertical fin. As with -ASGH, the halves were flat sanded on a piece of wet 320, but i was still left with gaps at the trailing edge of the rudder which were filled in by ramming strips of .005 sheet into the gaps with CA, and then block-sanding everything straight, thin, and flush. I'm still looking for a method to "nail" the alignment of the stabilizers. This time i glued just the lower halves to the fin, turned the whole thing upside down and taped the stabs down onto two pieces of wood of equal thickness, assuring that the surfaces were at least on the same 3-dimensional plane. Once dry, i added the upper halves. Next up came the engine nacelles. I learned too late in the game that the inner engine inlets were staggered slightly forward of the outboard ones. Not a huge amount, but enough to notice on close inspection. At the time, i felt the engine pylons were a little too thin in cross section, so i tried to thicken those up with a piece of .015 styrene. The end result of that wasn't very noticeable and it required slicing partway between the lower engine/pylon piece to fix some fit issues. I would not do *that* again. However, extending the inboard intakes was worth the effort... There's still quite a bit to be done with respect to panel lines and vents, drains, etc., but the major re engineering is all done. Next up came the wings. Again, i cut off all of the locator pins and flat sanded the surfaces on wet 320. The leading edges come together just fine, but we still were left with the gap issues on the wing trailing edges... However, with time, patience and the right tools, the trailing edge can be successfully rehabilitated and made presentable. Fabricating the wing fences came next. This time, i made the saw cuts in the wings before gluing the halves together... The fences are removable and can be left off the model until the painting stage. No longer in the way, where my fat fingers will blunder into them. I used the same method of re-doing the wing attachment as on -ASGH, though i went with somewhat beefier rods in the rear spar area. One of the things i learned late in my first build, (and i was not happy with either) were the gaps at the trailing edges of the wings at the fillet fairing. When the flaps are down, the innermost flap segment actually incorporates a small portion of the wing fillet, and there should not be any gaps there. Since my last major forays into gap filling with CA, i've expanded the technique somewhat to incorporate dental resin acrylic powder mixed into the CA. Trust me when i say that the resin/CA composite sanded away quickly and easily. That's all for the first installment. I'll report back when i'm finished installing and blending in the windscreen. I'm about halfway though that evolution right now. Maybe i'll work on that Phantom for a little bit.....
  2. Roden's O-1 Bird Dog in 1/48 scale is not the most straightforward kit. But with the right attitude (not all kits are Tamiya kits!) the experience was pleasant in the end. Big parts went on well mostly and it was the small parts that required some extra attention. Biggest flaw with the kit is probably the clear parts which are quite foggy. And my careless glue handling skills didn't make them any better. But given the subjects down-to-earth attitude, I didn't go the extra mile trying to make them clearer. Only thing that I spent quite a lot of time improving the cockpit with some greenstuff, lead wire, plasticard and brass rods that majority of them is not visible. But atleast I know they are there! And I did leave the door open. Other than the cockpit, I only added the 'Remove Before Flight' labels on the rockets. Kit was painted with Vallejo acrylic paints. Decals required some extra attention with some varnish, sanding & polishing & painting. Not all came out perfect but atleast majority of the big ones came out OK. Weathering was done with enamel products mostly. First, dark gray panel line wash, followed by Vallejo Premium satin varnish. Then some more localized weathering like muddy wheels, exhaust stains and engine grime. O-1 Bird Dog presented here is a forward air controller plane in Lai Keh, South Vietnam in 1966. They were called in by ground forces to scout out the enemy forces and mark them out with white phosphorus rockets for the fast movers like F-100 Super Sabres. This required some slow & low flying which suited the plane well and it had excellent visibility. Only thing that it didn't have much in the way of defense, just the flak vest that was not worn, but instead laid flat on the seat and sat on! Oh, and you could use your CAR-15 rifle by reaching out the side window, far enough that the hot shell casings didn't fly into the cockpit, While flying the plane _below_ treeline. Crazy stuff! WIP here:
  3. First I was gonna do Fujimi F7U-3P Cutlass as suggested by @gingerbob but then I saw @robw_uk is already working on the kit (build which I'll be following closely!). Now while it really isn't an issue multiple people doing the same kit, then I found this great article with brilliant photos on the O-1: http://modeltalking.hobbyart.sk/?p=5575#more-5575 http://modeltalking.hobbyart.sk/?p=5639 And that got my inspiration through the roof so I will be going to tackle Bird Dog first as proposed by @Col. Here is the kit: No aftermarket stuff, sorry. But this is a multimedia kit after all, kit comes with metal antenna Those brilliant photos on the website really make me want to do some interior scratchbuilding. I will see how far the kit parts will suffice and if there's something that I can or be able to add. I rarely work on 1/48 kits so this extra level of detail is quite new to me. Let's go!
  4. Roden is likely to release mid 2022 a 1/32nd Sopwith One and a Half Strutter kit - ref. 635 Source: https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=11367.0 V.P.
  5. Boeing 720-048 Aer Lingus early 1960s Roden 1/144 kit with Welsh Models resin engines (kit engines are far too big - a shame because they are nicely moulde Twosix decals Paint finish - Halford's Appliance White + AK Polished Aluminium with Xtracrylic grey panels
  6. I model aircraft, but I've been thinking a truck of some sort to complement some of my 1/72 Gustavs could be nice (see my Minor Gustavs project) . This GB seems like the opportunity! I have this kit to use with both a fuel truck and a Schwimmwagen (not sure how that translates...)... and what's that little cart thing next to them? Probably a loader of some sort, I would think... Maybe I have a transport, a loader, and a carrier all in one box here!
  7. Here are some photos of my recently completed B-36, representing a plane (01086, “Miss Featherweight”) based at Carswell during the early 1950's. This model was built using the Roden 1/144 kit, with a few scratch built details. I used an aftermarket decal set from Caracal, because those that came in the kit looked very blurry. I also purchased a wide-base display stand from Academy in order to represent the plane in flight. My additions were the gun barrels (tungsten rod, in place of the kit plastic), rigging (using UNI-Caenis thread) and a very basic set of crew figures (created from Milliput). The kit comes with no interior whatsoever, and I felt that it would look silly to have plane flying with no one inside. There was also no provision for representing the plane with the undercarriage retracted, so some of the wheel bay doors had to be created with Evergreen sheet. This was not an easy build. Cutting a very long story short, basically every single step was accompanied by a lot of filling and sanding to avoid unnatural-looking seam lines and mould sinks. If you are interested I have shared pictures of some of the worst offenders in my web site (https://www.marcellorosa.com/1-144-b-36d-peacemaker), but here today I am celebrating the end of this saga, so I will concentrate on positives! This was my first experience with attempting a natural metal finish. It was a steep learning curve, not helped by the fact that I chose a complicated scheme that combined the metallic surfaces in most places, with anti-flash white in some parts of the bottom surfaces. This meant a lot of masking, particularly keeping in mind that even at 1/144 this B-36 model still manages to be longer, and to have a wider wingspan than my 1/72 Privateer (Itself an elongated version of the B-24 Liberator). Just shows how insanely large the B-36 was, for its time. An entire roll of Tamiya tape was used in this "mini-scale" model... The anti-flash white bottom surfaces were painted with SMS white followed by a bit of insignia white. Panel lines were suggested by running a fine pacer along them, before the last coat of white paint was applied. Pictures of the B-36 suggest two main characteristics of the metallic finish. 1) The crew compartments (aluminium, front and back) look more reflective than the middle parts (magnesium), and 2) there is some variation in shade and reflectiveness between panels. I tried to evoke similar impressions by using different Alclad paints, and by using different final coats after the decals (Vallejo semi-gloss for most of the wing and fuselage, very glossy floor polish for the front and back crew compartments). Weathering was kept to a minimum, with most of it happening "organically" by not becoming too fanatic about cleaning and fixing every little speck of imperfection in the paint. I found trying to weather a 1/144 model surprisingly hard, since everything I did looked like a huge smudge in the plane. Surely, the crew chiefs would not allow that much to stay. Little bits of oil stain were added where I saw in them watching the movie "Strategic Air Command" multiple times. I really wanted a B-36 in my collection, and the Roden kit did provide the materials to build a correctly shaped one - albeit almost driving me crazy, in the process. Unless you have the real estate required to accommodate one of the increasingly rare 1/72 Monogram kits, and the willingness to splash money in the litres of metallic paint required by that kit, the Roden is the best option available. Just don't think it will be a quick and relaxing build. If you are planning to build this kit, feel free to enter in contact using the email in my signature panel, I will be happy to give more details.
  8. Fokker DVI Jasta 80b Bavarian Home Defence 1918 1/72 Roden I brought this off eBay on a whim for a fiver as it was part started. The build it’s self wasn’t too bad but the markings turned into a nightmare. Typical Roden decals which despite coating with decal film still insisted on breaking up (but not disintegrating completely thankfully) - in the end I’ve had to effectively touch in every lozenge; hours of fun 🤪 As a plus though not much rigging on this one just a few control cables 😊 happy with the final result though
  9. Hi all, is there any aftermarket stuff out yet to pimp up this kit a bit?
  10. Hi, About time that I start a thread for my RB-36H. I'm using the Hobbycraft B-36D because it has the neccesary blisters for a recce B-36. As far as I know Roden have not done a recce version of their B-36 yet. I will use option 1 from the Caracal sheet: RB-36H 51-5754 of the 72 nd BW at Ramey AFB. There is also a second option for an RB-36E of the 72 nd BW, but that's a bit more bland without the SAC and wing badge that my RB-36H will have. Today, I glued the wing together and airbrushed the props black. Cheers, Stefan.
  11. Due early May https://modelsua.com/boeing-rc-135v-w-rivet-joint-c-135-1-144-roden-349
  12. Roden is likely to release a 1/32nd Avro 504K in late 2022 Source: https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=11367.0 V.P.
  13. Hi, this is my first time posting in the non-military vehicles RFI forum as I am, characteristically, an aircraft modeller. But I simply could not pass up the opportunity to make this spectacular bus kit by the Ukrainian company Roden. The "Straßenzepp Essen" was a small series of luxury truck bodies (about 10 vehicles) produced by the workshop of the Ludewig Brothers in Essen. It was used for inter-city travel, day trips, and for transporting athletes and guests at the Berlin Olympics in 1936. The propaganda value of such elegant art deco styled buses with streamlined hoods and aerodynamic fins helped to announce the rapidly developing German auto industry to the rest of the world. Interestingly, not even these artfully designed buses were able to escape service in WWII. At least one was provided to the Luftwaffe for personnel transport duties. Of note, these buses had seats placed at 45 degrees to the window. So you didn't need to twist your neck to look out those big panoramic windows. A feature we've lost in the name of economy... As for the kit, it was difficult to assemble due to the body being moulded in separate roof, sides, and rear panel sections. It took quite a bit of filler and sanding to get some semblance of smoothness, and I think I did a decent job with this for such a small model. The diorama base is the Flyhawk French Streetscape kit. The tree and hanging sign are scratchbuilt. So without further ado, please enjoy the pictures! I should stop by this corner of the forum more often.
  14. I’ll be joining in with this classic armoured car. I’ve already built one earlier this year so know the pitfalls.
  15. Dear all, As requested by Jerzy (JWM), I herewith post some images of the Roden Heinkel He 111B I built a few years ago. Markings are mostly from the kit, although I swapped the white fuselage numbers for black ones, as they should have been. The trick I used to get the fuselage to close, was to add a shim (1.5 mm behind the cockpit, 0 mm at the tail), which allows the clear parts and the bomb rack to fit). I kept weathering rather light, just adding a pin wash to the control surfaces, the tank filler caps and the bomb bay. Certainly not my best result, but in the end I was just glad to have finished it. I do like the elegant look though of the 'classic' bomber nose, rather than the later 'all glass' nose from the P and H versions. Peter
  16. Hi all Here I present Roden’s 1:144 RC-135V/W Rivet Joint in Royal Air Force markings I brought this kit not long after it’s release and started it back in October 2022 it was intended to be a quick build before starting my next project but as it was it didn’t go as quickly as I’d hoped but hay-ho anyways I wanted to do it in RAF markings but the the kit only comes with USAF decals so a quick search on the web and I see Welsh model do a kit so an email was sent and a few days later I purchased the decals 👍 I chose to do ZZ664 Paints used were from Vallejo (a first for me in using these paint’s) I thoroughly enjoyed this build despite it taking a little longer than I anticipated Thanks for looking and happy modelling 👍
  17. Hi, finished today after a much longer period in WIP (and the shed) than I normally allow. The build was enjoyable with no great fit issues, a very nice kit. However the decals would not settle down so I replaced as many as I could with items from my decal bank. The WIP is here if you would like a peek. Here are a few pics looking through the rear ramp door to show the scratch built 3rd seat and work table. Thanks for looking Pete
  18. Junkers DI (short fuselage) 1/72 Roden western front 1918 This was a £5 eBay purchase - interesting build that needed more effort than I’d anticipated for such a small kit - decals were on the whole unusable or disintegrated when soaked in micro sol so most of the markings are hand painted over the remains. I’m happy with the finished result though
  19. Roden is to release a 1/32nd Spad XIII kit - ref. 634 Source: https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=11367.0 V.P.
  20. As my first 4 "easy" builds are either finished or getting close it is time to start on my final, slightly more complicated build. I have already built one of the Roden 232 (8 Rad) kits as a normal armoured car but this will be the version equipped with a longer range radio. As you will note there are 2 upper hulls on the sprue, the one on the right being for the one equipped with a short 75mm gun, but that is for another kit in their range and this will be with a turret. Markings are provided for one in Russia and another in Italy in the late war "gelb" finish together with a Romanian one, but I may just build this in desert colours as my gelb has run out! It is not a difficult kit, but there are a lot of small fiddly parts with not very clear locations and the "undercarriage" on my last one was hard work and was not too well aligned so I will have to take more care this time round. Pete
  21. Roden is to release a 1/72nd North American AJ-1 Savage kit - ref. 063 Sources: http://www.roden.eu/HTML/063.html https://1999.co.jp/eng/10908285 https://www.greenmats.club/forums/topic/9511-roden-172-aj-1-savage-—-в-разработке/ I wish the same but in 1/48th V.P.
  22. Started last year for the Bristol GB entered into KUTA and having been reminded that this is the Centenary of the founding of the Air Corp finished today.
  23. Roden is to release a 1/144th Heinkel He.111H-6 kit - ref. 341 Source: http://www.roden.eu/HTML/framemodels.htm V.P.
  24. This is the kit, it’ll be oob as much as possible. Sprues. There’s a nice decal sheet but that’s gone straight to the decal box as I won’t be using it. This is the scheme. Although I think it should be khaki not PC10.
  25. BOAC Super VC10 Mid 1960s This is the Roden 1/144 kit with Two Six decals built from the box except for a bit of sanding around the nose to reduce the sharpness of the change in profile from parallel to tapered in plan view, and addition of the two small fences on each wing leading edge. I also emphasised the flaps, slats and spoilers slightly by some light scribing before highlighting with mid grey paint to get them to stand out a little more than the panel line engraving, which is nice but just a little heavy for this scale.
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