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  1. Hello! Here is my Revell/Momogram 1/32 Hurricane Mk.IIc. I have wanted a Hurricane in 1/32 for a long time but never came across one for a "good price". Eventually I saw this kit on an auction site and despite the vendor stating that a "few" parts had been glued together I thought I would bid a low price on it and see what happened..... What arrived on my workbench was as described, plus all the flying surfaces had been removed. Badly. After some bad language................. and a cup of tea I thought "Nothing ventured-nothing gained." So I played the cards I'd been dealt and set to work! This kit can easily be built OOB, but it screams for some more detail to be added! To this end, I re-scribed the airframe (not too well, but never mind!), modified the cannon barrels and the exhaust stubs. I purchased the Grey Matter resin cockpit which for me, was a real faff to put together as my right hand was not too well at the time. (its on the mend now!) It was very frustrating, but all of my red faced huffing and puffing gave way to a half decent office! With the cockpit out of the way, I made repairs to the moving surfaces and it was necessary to modify them slightly in order to get a good fit to the airframe. This is not museum quality work here, just good enough to please my own eye! Building was much easier after all that! Soon came the painting and I used Mr. Hobby RAF Dark Earth/RAF Middle Stone for the upper surface with my own mix of Tamiya Azure Blue on the lower surface. The kit decals despite their age, did appear to be usable but I did not want to risk it so I bought an aftermarket sheet made by Techmod. The scheme I chose was that of Hurricane BP588 from 33 Sqn. RAF, based in Libya during November 1942. It was the mount of Squadron Leader S.C Norris. Once all the markings were sealed, it was the fun bit-weathering! I used my own panel line wash and let it dry. Next step was to add some paint chipping with some Prismacolour pencils, first time I used this product, I need more practice but I like the results I ended up with. Last step was to spray my own mix of dust over the entire model to bring a uniform finish to the airframe. The display base was my usual home-made fare. And there we have it, a 1/32 Hurricane built on a budget! Hope you like this one!
  2. One of the things I'm missing from my practice builds is a boat or ship. - after several years with little building I allowed myself 10 before my self critique become self criticism and crying in a cupboard, I'm currently on #8 (i suppose #10 will have to be a choice between an AV or a car...) Don't fancy going back to tiny Sweeny 700 scale, nor even the less taxing 350s, so I make a shortlist of 72/48/35 kits that won't just the bank or be huuugggeee eg. Airfix MTB or Rescue launch (or Revell equivalents), Tamiya PBR, Revell PCF. Anyway today I spotted a nice online price for the PCF and am tempted. I know it's a old kit with basic internals and details but it's supposed to be a decent effort shapewise and easily upgraded even without using AM parts. WIPs and references are rather few and far apart though so I was hoping for pointers to decent articles and threads to shorten the search. ... Thx in Advance D.
  3. Tornado IDS Update Sets (for Revell) 1:48 Eduard Revell's new IDS variant of the Tornado is probably still flying off the shelves, and you can always rely on Eduard to produce a rash of sets to upgrade the detail further than the kit designers could go just by using styrene injection parts. The sets have been broken down so you can pick and choose, or go with the Big Ed set and save a couple of shekels in getting the lot. Each set comes in a flat plastic package protected by white card, with the instructions behind and the Photo-Etch (PE) or other contents on the outer face for easy viewing. Interior Set (49686) This set includes a pre-painted and self-adhesive fret in nickel plated brass, and another in bare brass, plus a small slip of acetate with HUD glazing shapes printed in black. After removing all of the raised instruments from the panels and side consoles, they are replaced with pre-painted laminations with a host of instrument detail. The rudder pedals are also removed and replaced with more accurate and detailed units, as well as the seat headbox tops, a small box on the rear bulkhead and the rear-seater's additional equipment boxes sat between the cockpits. These last ones get a new face, plus partial skins in brass, with more skins added to the cockpit sills, the insides of the canopy and the hoop of the windscreen. A throttle quadrant is built up for the pilot's left console, and both pilots get a set of rear-view mirrors each. Interior Zoom! Set (FE686) If all you want is a new set of instrument panels, the Zoom! set is for you, as it includes only the pre-painted sheet and the acetate. Simple if you're doing a closed canopy, don't really like PE, or are economising. Seatbelts Set (49688) The kit seats have moulded in belts, so the first task is to remove them times two, then replace them with the more accurate pre-painted parts included on the fret. To give you an idea of the amount of webbing the pilots have to get strapped down, there are twenty two parts replicating the belts and their fittings for one seat. They will look much improved once finished. Exterior Set (48812) Consisting of one large brass fret, the set includes details such as afterburner rigns for the two exhausts; retaining strip for the wing-gloves; interior framework for the thrust reversing buckets and actuators, wing spoiler interior detail, flap bay detail, air-brake bay skins and brake interior ribbing; replacement vortex generators on the fin base with disposable application template; APU grille; pylon sway braces and adaptor rail details; and finally BOZ (flare) pod exit and vortex generators. Quite a busy set with many fine details requiring a steady hand and some care. Undercarriage Set (49687) A small pre-painted nickel plated fret, plus another large brass fret with a high part count, it consists mainly of skin parts for the bay, as well as extra detail that goes above and beyond the basics included in the kit. Also included are replacement oleo-scissor links for the nose leg, plus additional parts and a set of hoses. The main gear legs get the same treatment, plus a number of data plates wrapped around the main strut that should set it off very well. The wiring loom for the main gear legs are much more complex too. The ribbed bay roof is decked out with thin skin sections patterned to fit between the moulded in ribs, with more boxes, ribs and skins added along the way that should make a substantial difference to the finished article. ladder (48815) This is a re-release of an earlier set for the old (inaccurate) HobbyBoss kit that has been slightly altered to accommodate the Revell kit. I reviewed and built the original here many moons ago, and apart from the two platform parts swapping places and the Y-shaped brackets being a tad wider, there's nothing else changed. Masking Set (EX428) A sheet of yellow kabuki tape masking material with pre-cut parts patterned to fit the edges of the canopy perfectly. The compound curved areas will need filling with scrap tape from the sheet or masking fluid, and you also get hub masks for all the wheels into the bargain. Big Ed Sets (BIG49123 & BIG49111) If you simply must have it all and want to save substantial chunk of the purchase price (up to 30% according to Eduard), there's a Big Ed set in two flavours with and without the masks, and including a pre-painted PE set of Remove Before Flight Tags that you can see here. With Masks and Remove Before Flight Tags (BIG49123) Without Masks, with Remove Before Flight Tags (BIG49111) Review sample courtesy of
  4. I built this in the summer but have only just gotten a decent photo setup to be able to take pictures. This was built straight from the box and I used it as an experiment to try out a couple of techninques. The first was 'pre-shading' panels in different shades of grey before overspraying in Alcad pollished aluminium. This gives the effect of sublte differences in the panels without having the stress of masking metallic paint (it tends to peel off when I try!) The second technique I tried was the use of small dots of oil paint on the large areas of red to create a suble wethered look. A mix of yellow, red orage and brown was used and i'm prety happy with the result, though I will need a lot more practice. I've also made a short video (best watched in HD) Any comments or suggestions welcome John
  5. Mixing Cups (15 pieces) Revell Revell have moved more heavily into the accessories side for our hobby, and these pots arrive little plastic bags with a card header, with fifteen plastic mixing cups inside, which are sometimes referred to as Gallipots. They're incredibly lightweight, but remarkably strong considering. They've been formed around a mould with tablespoons (TBS), Fl.Oz, Drams, CC and ML scales on the side, and each will hold 2, 1, 8, 30 and 30 respectively, although that's pretty close to the top. The little recycling mark on the bottom tells us they're made of polypropylene, so they should be able to withstand any thinners you might throw in them, and I've run a test with the "hottest" one I possess, which it passed. Polypropylene does have a slight health concern however, as it tends to leach harmful chemicals into the content over time, but as you won't be drinking your paint or leaving it in the pots for a week, that probably won't affect you. It won't, will it? Please stop drinking paint Dan*. Conclusion They're pot-shaped, have measurements on the side, and they're readily available in model shops. Could you get cheaper online? Probably, but where would you store the other 999,999? Recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit * He'll know what I mean.
  6. GTK Boxer sgSankfz (Ambulance) Revell 1:35 The Boxer is a German-Dutch multirole Armoured Fighting Vehicle. It is being produced by the ARTEC GmbH Group (Armoured vehicle Technology). ARTEC is based in Munich and is owned by Krauss-Maffei Wegmann, and Rheinmetall in Germany and Rheinmetall Nederland in Holland. The name GTK stands for Geppanzertes Transport Kraftfahzeug which translates to Armoured transport vehicle. The Boxer is a modular concept AFV where the chassis stays the same and different modules are able to be loaded on the back. Different know configurations are Armoured Personnel Carrier, Infantry Fighting Vehicle, 120mm mortar carrier, Armoured Command Post, Armoured Ambulance, and Logistics Vehicle. It has also been proposed for development into a wheeled artillery system based on the PzH 2000 Gun System, and a anti aircraft system incorporating both missiles and a MANTIS gun system. The design is based on standardisation across all platforms, with the ability to be maintained easily and efficiently. It has also been designed from the outset to fit into the A400M aircraft. Protection for the crew is designed around traditional hard steel and modular armour (ceramic mix) which is bolted on. This will allow future developments in armour to be incorporated. The vehicle has been designed to offer top cover from those system designed to penetrate the traditional thinner armour on top of AFVS. Inside the crew sit on suspended seats which offer enhanced mine protection. The vehicle will be fitted with anti thermal, radar and acoustic technology. An additional feature of these APCs is that the driver has a rear mounted camera to enable fast withdrawal if needed. The German Army plan to acquire 600 units with the Netherlands 400. The only export order so far has been to Lithuania with 100 on order. The medical vehicles systems are provided by Krauss-Maffei Wegmannmedical. Medical personnel can reach their destination within the shortest possible time,and they can begin to take care of the wounded immediately. Within seconds, the interior of the vehicle can be rearranged to treat either 7 slightly injured or 3 severely injured casualties. Many other configurations are possible too, even a complete medical operation room if needed. The medical care on board is ensured through the most modern equipment, and intensive care of a critically injured patient can quickly. The additional roof height (headroom of 1.85m) gives a protected space of 17.5 cubic meters within which the medical teams can work. The Kit The kit represents the Ambulance version of the APC following the 2011 release of the Infantry carrier. The kit arrives on seven sprues of green plastic, and one clear sprue. Five of the sprues being used for the base vehicle and two for the Ambulance Vehicle body. Hopefully this means more variants to come from Revell. As this was a new tool last year and this boxing is a re-issue the parts are still crisp and no flash is evident. Unlike the smaller scale vehicles the 1:35 ones come with rubber tyres. Construction starts with the main body of the APC. The two inside plates are added to the outside underside part along with the front lower plate and the bulkhead contain the access door from the front to rear compartments. The inside floor to the main compartment is then added. The drivers compartment is then assembled and added to the front of the main hull. This compartment has a full interior including the seat, steering wheel and other vehicle controls. Construction then moves on to the suspension and wheels. Suspension parts are added to all 8 locations on the hull along with the axles to mount the wheels. As expected with a large wheeled APC the suspension is quite intricate and Revell have reproduced this very well. The kit contains suspension arms, the springs, and all linkages. Even though the front 4 wheels steer you can not move any of them in the kit. Once all of these components are in place the outside main body panels can be added. The front bumper with its lights can then be added. Next the top plating for the driver area is added. The drivers vision system can be mounted in the open or closed position with full glazing provided for either option. Various item such as mirrors are added at this time though I suspect most modellers will leave these until the end. To finish the main hull off two rear plates are added. Three part hubs are made up for each of the eight rubber wheels, these can then be added at this stage if wanted. Now that the main body is complete construction moves to the modular ambulance module. A lower moulded one piece part is the base to which the ends are added along with the double angles side plates. The roof is then added. No interior for this module is provided. Smoke dischargers are made up and added to the roof of the vehicle. The main roof features both rotating orange beacons for road use, and blue beacons for the Ambulance role. It should be noted that Revell supply a length of wire taped to the instruction booklet for use with the vehicle antenna mounts. Decals The decal sheet is very small with minimal national markings, striped warning panels, and Red Crosses. Everything is in register and there should be no problems with the decals. There are two different options supplied. A Germany based vehicle with a Green/Brown/Black camo. A vehicle deployed to Afghanistan with a dessert camo. Conclusion This looks a great model. Revell have put a lot of thought into how the kit will go together. It is good to see a mainstream manufacturer bringing us modern armoured vehicles of the ambulance variety. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  7. Hi Everyone, I have been meaning to start on this project since I got back from my holiday in August, but just haven't felt up to it, my mojo has been a complete non-starter for months now. Back story posted here : http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234988171-revell-1144-b-52h-stratofortress-whif-poll-added/?p=2102381 Now I have 2 options to consider for this build : Give the plane 4 CF-6 engines from a Revell 747 which I was sent or build it as standard with 8 engines. The reason I say this is because the 4 engines are a lot larger than the standard engines and I am worried that due to the low ground clearance of this model the CF-6 engines might not clear the ground when attached to the wings. I am going to build the fuselage up with landing gear and temporarily fit the wings in place so that I can test fit an engine onto the wing and check the clearance before I glue everything together just in case i need to use the standard engines. To make a permanent fit of the 4 engines without changing engine pylons around I will have to cut the pylons down so that the length of them don't interfere with where the flaps are on the wings. Anyway here are photo options showing the different engine configurations. 8 engines 4 engines Anyway as soon as I have some photos showing progress (whenever that will be), I will get them posted on here. Wish me luck. Cheers, Rick
  8. U-Boat Crew Revell 1:72 First included in the second release of the 1:72 Type VIIc “Wolfpack” this set of vinyl figures will make a nice addition to any 1:72 vessel, whether it be a U-Boat or S-Boat. The real problem lies in the fact that they are moulded in blue vinyl. This makes the detail on the figures quite soft and not as sharp as a resin or injection moulded figure would be. The other problem is that the vinyl really doesn’t take paint well. The modeller will need to give them a really good wash in warm soapy water to remove any mould release agent, and then give them a coat of acrylic primer before adding the top coat and detail paints. Although you get fifty crew figures in the pack, there are only fifteen different poses. This will limit the number you can add to your model to either those on patrol, or those returning from patrol. Admittedly if your are building a diorama, a lot more of the pack can be utilised. One very minor point is that one group of officers are moulded with their collars open, this was generally only a privilege given to senior staff officers, not their subordinates. Overall though a useful set, just a shame they used an awful material to paint easily. or
  9. German Type IXc/40 U-Boat 1:72 Revell History The Type IX U-boat was designed by Germany in 1935 and 1936 as a large ocean-going submarine for sustained operations far from the home support facilities. Type IX boats were briefly used for patrols off the eastern United States in an attempt to disrupt the stream of troops and supplies bound for Europe. The extended range came at the cost of longer dive times and decreased manoeuvrability, which is why the smaller Type VII was produced in greater numbers and used for the bulk of operations. To improve the dive times some Type IXc/40s had their foredeck cut down, whether this was actually successful is open to debate. Another innovation included on this sub-type, was the installation of a snorkel mast, allowing the boat to run its diesel engines to charge the batteries whilst the boat was at periscope depth. German Type IXc/40 submarines were slightly larger than the original Type IXc. U-190 had a displacement of 1,144 tonnes (1,126 long tons) when at the surface and 1,257 tonnes (1,237 long tons) while submerged. The U-boat had a total length of 76.76 m (251 ft 10 in), a pressure hull length of 58.75 m (192 ft 9 in), a beam of 6.86 m (22 ft 6 in), a height of 9.60 m (31 ft 6 in), and a draught of 4.67 m (15 ft 4 in). The submarine was powered by two MAN M 9 V 40/46 supercharged four-stroke, nine-cylinder diesel engines producing a total of 4,400 metric horsepower (3,240 kW; 4,340 shp) for use while surfaced, two Siemens-Schuckert 2 GU 345/34 double-acting electric motors producing a total of 1,000 shaft horsepower (1,010 PS; 750 kW) for use while submerged. She had two shafts and two 1.92 m (6 ft) propellers. The boat was capable of operating at depths of up to 230 metres (750 ft). The submarine had a maximum surface speed of 18.3 knots (33.9 km/h; 21.1 mph) and a maximum submerged speed of 7.3 knots (13.5 km/h; 8.4 mph). When submerged, it could operate for 63 nautical miles (117 km; 72 mi) at 4 knots (7.4 km/h; 4.6 mph); when surfaced, she could travel 13,850 nautical miles (25,650 km; 15,940 mi) at 10 knots (19 km/h; 12 mph). U-190 was fitted with six 53.3 cm (21 in) torpedo tubes (four fitted at the bow and two at the stern), 22 torpedoes, one 10.5 cm (4.13 in) SK C/32 naval gun, 180 rounds, and a 3.7 cm (1.5 in) as well as a 2 cm (0.79 in) anti-aircraft gun. The boat had a complement of forty-eight. The Model As with Revells earlier kit of the Type IXc/40 this kit comes in a large, sturdy top opening box with an artistic impression of U-190 under the surface being depth charged. Inside, under a cardboard shelf there are the four parts that make up the hull and a poly bag containing seven sprues of light grey styrene and 3 deck pieces. There is also a small decal sheet, and a reel of black cotton included. The new style instruction booklet is very nice and overdue change from Revell. Printed in colour on better stock than previous, seemingly recycled stuff, they are nice and clear, with the added benefit that the print doesn't come off onto your hands. The moulding of all parts is pretty clean, although there is evidence of flash around some parts, albeit minimal and only a few moulding pips. Detail looks to be very well done with the associated hull openings shown as quite deep indentations and plenty of rivets for even the most fastidious modeller to count. It is a shame that the flood vents and openings in the hull haven’t been moulded open and a representative pressure hull included, but this may be due to the fact that the kit isn’t aimed at just the “professional” modeller, but all levels, thus some shortcuts have been taken. That said I’m sure that the aftermarket companies will come up with something that will really enhance the finished model and for the more experienced to go to town on it. That said, the details on all the parts does look really good and with some careful painting and weathering it should be made into a great and certainly impressively large model. The only real difficulty to be seen is the attachment of the stern section to the main hull section as the break isn’t on a natural hull line, although the dry fitting does show that it shouldn’t require too much filler, just be careful not to remove the rivets and plate lines when sanding. Construction begins with the assembly of the foreward tubes out of the main bulkhead with the tube openings, three sub-decks and two longitudinal bulkheads. The aft tubes are constructed from the tube bulkhead, a two part internal bulkhead and the deckhead. The foreward tubes are then sandwiched between the main hull halves along with two strengthening bulkheads about one third and two thirds of the length and the snorkel mast trough. The aft tubes are then fitted between the two aft hull parts with a bulkhead near the hull joint position. The two hull sections are then joined together and the seam carefully filled and sanded. At this point the snorkel mast sub-assembly is also built up. This consists of two halves for the mast with the filter/float fitted to the top. There is a long stand which can be assembled at this point to help with the rest of the build. With the hull turned upside down the three piece sonar dome is attached to the front of the keel whilst the two piece foreplanes, bow doors, which can be posed either open or closed and the boats anchor are fitted. Moving aft, a pair of two part prop shaft fairings are fitted, one per side adjacent to the rear of the keel, followed by the prop shafts, A frame supports and props. The stern torpedo doors can then be attached, again either open or closed. The two piece stern planes are then attached, with the two rudders and their support frame being the last to be fitted. With the hull upright the three deck sections are fitted and the joins carefully filled and sanded to prevent any loss of detail, although they are fitted at natural joins this time so there shouldn’t be too much to do. The two 20mm cannon mounts are then assembled out of the base, two part pedestal and traversing hand wheel. The cannon themselves are then built up with the twin barrels, ammunition cartridges, gun mount, elevating mount, shoulder rests and pintle attached. Next in the sequence is the assembly of the twin 37mm mounting. This consists of the two barrels, two piece pedestal/base, splinter shield and associated mounting beams, two seat mounts, seats and two pairs of hand wheels, making up a nicely detailed unit. The build then moves onto the large tower. The upper tower halves are joined together and a panel fitted to the starboard side. The command deck and 37mm mounting deck are fitted to the two piece lower tower section. The upper tower can then be fitted to the lower and the upper and lower winter garden decks attached. There are a number of panels to be fitted to the inside of the forward upper tower, including the radar stowage and compass shelf. Further details such as the conning tower hatch, with locking wheel and the voice tubes and spray coaming are added forward whilst the rear deck supports are added aft. Staying aft of the tower there are five racks fitted each containing a life raft, along with two access ladders and the individual ladder rungs up the starboard side of the tower. Two sections of handrail are attached around the 20mm gun deck and three sections of guardrail are fitted around the 37mm gun deck, with the flag staff in the centre of the upper tower railing. The tower is completed with the fitting of the two piece periscope housing, into which the two periscopes are slotted and between which there is a two piece lookout rail. The radar, with individual di-poles is fitted to the housing on the port side, a number of smaller items and finally, the three gun mounts assembled earlier in the build. The whole assembly is then affixed into position on the main deck. Construction of the sub is completed with the fitting of the hand rails around the tower on the main deck, the fore and aft deck hatches, access panels, bollards, engine exhausts and rear aerial supports. The aerials are to be made out of the cotton provided, but it may be better to use something that doesn’t look quite so furry. Fortunately in this kit Revell have provided the isolation fixings for the aerials foreward where it splits from one to three. Decals The single smallish decal sheet has markings for U-190 from before she was captured with the Kriegsmarine ensign and after, with the Canadian Ensign. There are also identification decals for the stand which fit into their respective indentations. The decals look like they have been printed by Cartograph, if my knowledge of serial letter is anything to go by. They are very nicely printed and quite thin, especially when compared with previous Revell printed sheets. Whilst there is a fair amount of carrier film between the letters it is thin enough that should allow them to sit well once your favourite softening and setting solutions have been used. Conclusion Revell have quite a collection of large scale submarines and this version of the Type IX fits in perfectly. It is a well designed and fairly easy kit to put together, with the only problem being its sheer size. Whilst not perfect, it will make a good base for those that wish to super detail their kits and the likes of Master Barrels, Eduard and even Pontos will soon have update sets for it. Now Revell, how about some British boats in this scale? Very highly recommended. or
  10. Right ok so as some of you may know I posted a topic in the discussion area about removing old decals as I wanted to update an old build. Well this is said build. Built a number of years ago and I've never been happy with the result. For a start this is the Revell boxing of the Hasegawa kit. Now whilst this rebox is better that the other Revell reboxes because it includes the metal antenna and the mudflap material, it is also majorly flawed in that the scheme depicted by the decals is for the 1983 Acropolis rally. 1. is doesn't include the Rothmans rally sponser on the plates and 2. the kit is tarmac spec not gravel. I was also not happy with my finish on the kit as the decals needed a bit of fettling on the front curves and inevitably tore and I ended up with areas were the white of the body showed through. In an attempt to incorporate this into the model I proceeded to chip away other areas of the decals to suggest stone chips. But I neglected to weather the kit so the effect wasn't great. Plus still it was in tarmac spec with slick tyres and that just wasn't right. So I've always known I was to eventually strip this kit but I didn't have any interesting decals to update it with. Until recently when I got these: It's a Jolly Club car for the 1983 Tour de Corse but is interesting for not having the typical Jolly Club green and orange striping. So I've proceeded to strip down the kit. I used watered down brake fluid to remove the decals and it also peeled the black enamel paint on the window frames. However is didn't touch the Humbrol spray I used on the body lol. There are a couple of chips in the paint around the front grill but as the plastic is white underneath it isn't noticeable. I'll also be adding the Hasegawa etch set to the kit seeing as Hannants was selling them at £3.20 and I needed 7 sets pmsl. I'll also need to convert the kit to Evo1 spec as Hasegawa only tooled the evo2 engine TTFN Ashley.
  11. Last year I built a set of RAF F-16's, and Paul J suggested that a USAF Typhoon might be a good companion project. I agreed and here it is. In the mid-2010's with the USAF's F-15C fleet aging, and the F-22 only purchased in small numbers, an airframe shortage loomed in the air superiority and air defense roles. It was decided to consolidate the remaining 'Golden Eagles' into the two forward deployed Fighter Wings at Lakenheath and Okinawa. That would leave the six continental air defense wings without aircraft. The Eurofighter consortium offered an appealing solution: partner nations (mainly Britain and Germany) could deliver used Tranche 1 jets immediately (thus providing funds for their own Tranche 3 purchases) with an option to purchase new build Tranche 3 jets in a second batch. The the ORANG's 142nd FW was the first to become operational with the 'second hand' Typhoons, designated F-25A's. Later, Tranche 3+ Typhoons with the CAPTOR-E radar and aerodynamic enhancements would be delivered as the F-25C. I'm planning on using the 1/72 Revell kit. Like many, I'm currently working on builds for the Battle of Britain GB, and this guy will have to remain on the back burner for a bit.
  12. This model was started a while ago by my husband before we both went through a big model making dry spell. Now we're both back on track we thought we might as well start a build log. The first and oddest thing you notice about this model is that they give you this lovely framed interior, then if you buy the Eduard photo etch like he did, you find you need to cover it up with a big blank panel. Much research says that yes this is the right thing to do. So despite my disappointment, accuracy won out. He found that the cockpit actually goes together very well when carefully fitted, although i'd say plenty of test fitting was certainly key to his success. He mixed up his own cockpit interior colour, he went for a fairly muted colour as he didn't want it too appear too over bright and toy like. The next job was masking off the instrument panel, after much deliberation he decided it was best to mask the background off and spray the panels black rather than the other way around. Here's the instrument panels mostly complete. David likes to use a palette of quite a range of colours to try and achieve the best effect. Along with the eduard etch set he also bought the HGW resin seat set with textile seat belts. Neither of us had ever used these before but they were really good and actually surprisingly easy to use. Plus they were far better than the kit part. However when the HGW set arrived the rear resin seat was broken, as the plastic one wasn't all that bad he just used the kit part instead. At the most recent Cosford model show we also bought a load of weathering powder from Pinnacle modelling supplies so he tried these out on his interior. The model needed a modest amount of filler but it wasn't all that bad.
  13. Spitfire Mk.XVI Revell 1:48 The Spitfire Mk.IX was a major step forwards in the spitfire story, yet was initially conceived as a stop gap to the Mk.VIII that was being developed to counteract the threat imposed by the FW190A. The aim of the Mk.IX was to fit the more powerful Merlin 61 to the Mk.V airframe with as few modifications as possible and history shows that this concept was a damn fine idea. Compared to the Mk.V, it was 40mph faster at 28,000ft and service ceiling was increased by over 5000ft. The improved performance came from the engines two stage supercharger which necessitated a longer nose to fit it all in. In the end, the Mk.IX was one of the most numerous marks, seconded only by the Mk.V. Due to the demand for Merlin engines, Packard started to supply US built engines to maintain the demand for the war in Europe. The Mk.XVI was essentially a Mk.IX, but all being produced with the Packard two stage supercharged powerplant. Such was the constant evolution in aircraft design during this period, many modifications and variations on the Mk.IX/XVI flew. Initially, the 'C' wing was used housing 20mm cannon and .303 machine guns, but later variants used the 'E' wing with the noticeable difference of using the larger calibre 0.5in gun. All 1053 of this variant produced were built at the Castle Bromwich plant where the mating took place. Whilst the engine was based on the Merlin, one key noticeable difference was that the Packard was built to metric specs unlike the imperial spec Merlin. Further variations included clipped wing tips to improve roll rate at low level and some aircraft having low blown superchargers to give their best performance in the low level window of combat. As is represented here by Revell, the biggest visual difference on most later variants was the bubble canopy significantly improving all round visibility. The kit So here we have the kit formerly produced by ICM. In its new form, it comes packed in the familiar Revell format; end opening blue framed box with all the parts wrapped in a single bag except for the clear parts. The instructions are quite a busy affair due to the amount of detail that's provided in the kit. Having read previous reviews on the ICM kit, the summary I was expecting was a kit with quite accurate shape but suffers from sink marks and flash in areas. The plastic is moulded in a medium grey colour with a matt finish to the surface. I'm pleased to say that in this kit, the flash is very minimal, certainly better than I was expecting so quality control at Revell is clearly having a positive effect. There are indeed some sink marks worth noting. Key places where I can see them are the top wings around the ailerons and wing tips, lower wings where the interior gun bays are moulded, the cockpit sides on the fuselage and strangely on the tail planes near the roots. Are these going to be a problem ? Well I'd rather they weren't there obviously, but with a few dabs of filler and some experience of handling sink marks, they shouldn't be beyond most people to remove. Surface detailing in the kit is very nice. Recessed panel lines are controlled, deep enough to get a good panel wash into, but shallow enough not to look out of place. One of the things that hits you about the kit when you open it is the shear amount of detail that is crammed onto the sprues. Clipped wing tips, normal tips, HF wing tips, different chins, bombs, rockets, different cannon arrangements, two types of tailplane and a huge slipper tank are included, so the possibilities are quite spectacular. And then there's the engine. I've counted 33 parts that make the engine assembly up excluding the engine mounts ! If you do decide to fit the engine, I recommend plenty of dry fitting to ensure that alignment between the engine, engine mounts and fuselage works out well as there is some intricate parts here. If having the engine on show isn't your thing, then you probably won't be surprised that you can choose to have the covers assembled. Looking at built images of the kit, it appears to capture the quite complex shape of the Mk.IX/XVI nose well. Just as with the open option, I suspect care will be needed to align the covers if you have them closed. Moving into the office, the detail in there has received the same attention as the engine and is probably one of the best detailed Spitfire cockpits on the market that aren't made of resin or etch. All the key parts are nicely produced with sharp detail. The only thing missing is some seatbelts. The prop has individually moulded blades that sandwich between a hub and cone with a bush to secure it in place whilst allowing it to turn. Another option is the choice of having the cannon bays open or closed. The guns and ammo feeds are finely reproduced, although if you choose to have the bays open, only one configuration with four cannons appears to be available. If you close them, two cannon fairing options are up for grabs for either the two or four cannon variants. The bomb racks in the kit are a miniature work of art. Very fine parts will need some careful handling, but the results should be quite gratifying. The bombs themselves get this same treatment too. There are lots of extra parts in the kit that aren't included in the instructions, some being obvious such as the slipper tank, other small parts not so obvious, however I'm still impressed with the detailing on them ! You'll end up with plenty of parts for the spares box whatever variant you make, that's for sure. The clear parts can often make or break a kit as the cockpit usually gets a lot of extra detailing attention. To then lose it all under a distorted over thick canopy can be frustrating. Fortunately, the canopy in the kit is quite good. There is a slight distortion on the canopy due to the curved profile, but certainly nothing to dissappoint and the windscreen is very well produced. Two decal options are included: No.421 Royal Canadian Airforce Germany 1945 - using the yellow ringed roundels No. 612 Squadron, Royal Auxiliary Airforce, Dyce, 1949 - using the later style roundels As per Revell's recent offerings, the decals look excellent, vivid colours and well registered. There is enough stencils to add interest, but not enough to bore you to death applying them ! If painting the cockpit panel isn't your preferred choice, you can sand the detail off and apply the decal. With so many options available in the kit plastic, you may want to investigate the after market decal options too. Conclusion Revell have taken a kit that whilst isn't without flaws, is quite a versatile option in the Spitfire range and probably the best Mk.XVI in 1/48. Yes, it suffers from some sink marks that will need attention, but the options and detail combined with revell pricing make this a great choice for anyone who likes spitfires (that probably covers 80% of modellers !!). I've always had a soft spot for the bubble top spits since my father made one when I was a wee nipper using what ever blue paint we had at the time, so I'm really looking forwards to building this one. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  14. Fw 200C-5/FK, F8+KR, III./Kg40, Norway July – October 1944.
  15. Heinkel He 177A-5 (W Nr 550062) was captured by the French Resistance at Toulouse-Blagnac in September 1944. It had previously served with Kg 40, coded F8+AP. It was flown to Farnborough on 10th September 1944 and was numbered TS439 by the Royal Aircraft Establishment. Its last flight was on 20th February 1945 when it landed at Boscombe Down with engine trouble. Later it was shipped to the U.S.A. without its engines and was allotted the number FE-2100, but was never restored to flying condition, despite the USAAF having suitable engines. The USAAF had a second He 177 (W Nr 550256) captured at Toulouse, but this had crashed at Paris-Orly at the start of its intended ferry flight to the U.S.A. on 28th February 1945.
  16. Hi all, Apologies if this is photo heavy... I finished this earlier this summer. Pretty straight forward OOB build. Literally glued the whole thing together, sprayed it silver, then hand painted the suspension arms and any other small details. The decals were nice and thick and went on a treat. Not 100% happy with the colour as the real thing looks more like a mirror finish than silver but short of MF'ing it I'm not sure how i'd be able to recreate that finish. Not much else to say about it, any questions just ask! (I know I messed up on the tyre logo's...) Here's some shots of it with the Merc from the same year:
  17. Its been April since I put anything on Britmodeller,I have been building, just very slowly.However with Peter Halls new P.E. for HMS Tiger Revell (yes it is the old Matchbox kit)I have been busy with Tiger,with 3D parts by Bogey at Shapeways and new gun parts it was time to start this kit. Parts Revell 1/700 HMS Tiger P.E. Atlantic Models HMS Tiger for both Gun and Helicopter version. 3D parts by Bogey at Shapeways Gun Barrels by Master Display case by Trumpeter Name plate by laserlayers Junks by Rainbow
  18. Star Wars The Force Awakens Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Level 2 - Revell Although we don't yet know the full story behind the new J.J.Abrams take on the Star Wars universe after the Emperor's demise, we know that Kylo Ren is the lead baddie (or is he?), and he's the one running the show over at the First Order, which is the re-branded and re-structured remnants of the old Evil Empire. He gets around in this black monster, which bears a family resemblance to an Imperial Shuttle of old in the folded configuration, and with the central fin missing. He's also bound to have a behemoth space station salted away somewhere, but we'll have to wait & see on that score. The Kits This is another of the snap-together styrene kits in the Level 2 range, and as such it is more detailed and larger than the lights & sound Level 1 kits (toys) I reviewed recently. It arrives in a bigger box, and has six sprues in grey black styrene, plus one containing a red painted clear part. The details are painted at the factory, although most of it is simply a different shade of almost-black with a slight greenish tint. Only the exhaust nozzles have been hit with a shade of silver and the canopy with red to give them a bit of a glow. The first thing of note is how big these wings really are. They're over 30cm long, so when it's built, you're going to need some headroom wherever you want to store/display it. There are contrasting inserts in the wing edges, and the cannons in the leading wing-root edge are carried over from the old shuttles. The lower hull has a crew compartment and bulkhead added along with an articulated access-ramp, which is covered by a blank bay to block your view of the interior. The canopy and wing root bulkheads are slotted in place along with a few other smaller parts, and the hull is closed up, with a pair of exhaust nozzles added to the rear. The wings slot into the hull's bulkheads on long pins for strength, and you then install the landing gear skids in retracted positions by leaving the gear legs off, or in landing pose by adding the legs beforehand. Conclusion This is a construction toy, and a pretty good one at that, with plenty of external detail to entertain the eye. It's a big kit, so if you're supervising the build you'll need to look out for joints that would benefit from gluing, but if my son gets as much fun out of these bigger kits as he has done with the Level 1 kits, they'll be a great buy for any kids you know of any age. Highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  19. Hi everyone ! After a long time this project is finished ! With the help of Shawn M ( he sent me the canopy because i ruined mine . Thank you very much Shawn ) i managed to finish the model . I hope you like it P8060283 by Dionyssis Vacalas, on Flickr P8060278 by Dionyssis Vacalas, on Flickr P8060279 by Dionyssis Vacalas, on Flickr P8060280 by Dionyssis Vacalas, on Flickr P8060281 by Dionyssis Vacalas, on Flickr P8060284 by Dionyssis Vacalas, on Flickr
  20. Hi all,just fancied a quickish (maybe a couple of weeks anyway) build just to keep in touch with my 1/72 side so swapped my eldest a kit for this as I only have a couple of 1/72 small kit,s in the meager stash,It,s the old Matchbox kit which accuracy issues aside was one of their better mold's.the cockpit is none existent so a bit of scratchbuilding will be needed just to "busy" it up and It's been a while since I did a biplane.Finish will be for an aircraft that attacked the Bismark flown of Ark royal. the box: The spru'es: and a shot of the fuselage: and my only other bi-plane to date,Revell's old Nieport with streched sprue rigging which I will be doing on the Swordfish.
  21. Hi everyone and as promised here are some pics from this finished build. I've included a link to the WIP thread if you hadn't seen it before and to recap, this all started with me asking fellow modeller and all-round good bloke Chief Wiggum if he considered building his Trumpeter TU-95 Bear as an in-flight intercept diorama. After almost 10 months and a lot of modelling heartache later (99% for Chief), here it is. We were absolutely thrilled and stunned to win Silver in the Diorama class at the IPMS Ireland Nationals with it as well as the 'People's Choice' Award as voted for by the public at the show... Honestly, we were deligthed! (I'm the one not smiling) While neither of us can make Telford this year, we're hoping to get the diorama there somehow for the IPMS Ireland Club table.....gonna need a big roof box Thanks for looking and any questions, will try to answer them! Cheers, Dermot and Barry (aka Chief Wiggum)
  22. Hi folk,s with my Battle of Britain build's almost complete and as a calming bit of R'nR from the steamy jungles of the Vietnam GB I need a bit of colour in my life so totally inspired by Beefy's superb build of Revell's tug boat I saw this for a tenner in my LMS a few week's back and thought I would give it a go.I am going for a "what if! scheme and here;s the tale:Many years ago my Dad took me to the science museum then in exhibition park,in this museum were a mass of beautiful huge shipwright's models from tyne side's rich shipbuilding past,among them a beautiful 1950,s cargo ship in a duck egg green and white scheme and for some strange reason it scared the life out of me. Fast forward forty odd year,s to last year and I took my son,s to the discovery museum in Newcastle and in the shipbuilding room were many of those same models and perched up in the display case was the very same ship and believe me the Hair,s on my neck stood up,how can a colour scheme scare you? so to lay the demon's to rest that,s the colour she will be painted. Box artwork.
  23. Oops I missed the thread: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234973611-172-halifax-bmkiii-from-revell-in-2015/ After the 1/72nd Halifax B.Mk.I/II GR.II - ref.04670 -, Revell is to release in 2015 a new variant from this kit: the Handley-Page Halifax B.Mk.III - ref.04936 Source: http://www.primeportal.net/models/thomas_voigt9/revell/index.php?Page=3 Test shot V.P.
  24. Star Wars - The Force Awakens Millennium Falcon Revell Well, if you've had your head jammed behind a wardrobe for the last six months it might be news to you that we're being treated to a new Star Wars film under the Disney auspices, with J.J.Abrams at the helm. A raft of new characters, the return of some of the old favourites, and a host of new hardware will be gracing our screens as of December 2015, and quite frankly I can't wait! The new Millennium Falcon is as recognisable of the other kits in this series, having only some minor modifications applied over the years since the original trilogy, the most noticeable being the new "radar" dish that replaces the large circular one of old. The Kit The first thing to get straight is that this is a kit, but it is firmly aimed at the younger audience, and has been simplified with them in mind, as well as being provided with a small sound-module that also has some lighting effects built in. inside the box the parts are held firmly by two vacuum formed clear end caps, with the smaller parts in a small polythene bag. There are 19 parts for you to put together, and if I'm honest I'm quite impressed with the quality of the detail, although it's probably not up to a serious modeller's standards without some upgrades, due to the simplification necessary on the very busy surfaces. That said though, it builds up in just a couple of minutes in the hands of an adult of limited intelligence such as this reviewer, and when it's done it looks really nice. Seriously! It is moulded in ABS rather than normal styrene, as it gives a lot more strength to the finished model. It has some fun features like retractable landing gear, although these have been massively altered to make them strong enough for play, with little curved finger cut-outs to let you move them. The electronics are hidden within the rear fuselage and provide light and sounds when you press the central exhaust nearest the rear of the ship. The sounds cycle as before, and two blue LEDs light up the engine exhaust grille at the rear, which looks pretty good under the circumstances. If you've watched the videos I posted up the other day, you'll be pleased to know that they're a lot better than the audio would suggest, and they are as follows: Fly-by A slow and unrealistic shooting noise Rapid fire that sounds like the self-defence cannons that pop out from the underside The 1st and 3rd samples are a lifts from the film at a guess, while the 2nd is a poor fabrication of unknown provenance. The radar is mobile and can spin on its base, as can the central gun turrets we grew to love in the first film. As already mentioned, the landing gear clicks in & out for flight and landing poses, but the canopy on this kit is just painted on with no clear panels or interior, which is a shame, but hardly surprising at this scale, which must be near to 1:144. Conclusion If you buy it expecting a highly detailed model of a new Millennium Falcon, you might be a tad disappointed, although I think that it has potential if you're willing to put the effort in to turn it into a "proper" model. Like the real thing, it is robust enough for extended play, and only a few bits may get dislodged or lost. If you're a kid with a liking for Star Wars however, the fastest hunk of junk in the galaxy will seem absolutely awesome to you, and I can't wait for my five year-old to see them when he comes home from school. Highly recommended if you understand what you're getting in the box. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  25. Star Wars - The Force Awakens First Order Special Forces TIE Fighter Revell Well, if you've had your head jammed behind a wardrobe for the last six months it might be news to you that we're being treated to a new Star Wars film under the Disney auspices, with J.J.Abrams at the helm. A raft of new characters, the return of some of the old favourites, and a host of new hardware will be gracing our screens as of December 2015, and quite frankly I can't wait! The new TIE fighter is operated by the First Order, which is the new name for the Evil Empire, who despite our fervent desires weren't polished off with the demise of the 2nd Death Star, but managed to re-establish their grip on the Empire, but to what degree we don't yet know. It is upgraded from the original, and squeezes a two-man crew into the same cabin space – even Sci-Fi technology is advancing in terms of miniaturisation! They're black now, and this one has a red accented panel, which I'm going to guess represents their unit badge? The Kit The first thing to get straight is that this is a kit, but it is firmly aimed at the younger audience, and has been simplified with them in mind, as well as being provided with a small sound-module that also has some lighting effects built in. inside the box the parts are held firmly by two vacuum formed clear end caps, with the smaller parts in a small polythene bag. There are 15 parts for you to put together, and if I'm honest I'm quite impressed with the quality of the detail, although it's probably not up to a serious modeller's standards without some upgrades. That said though, it builds up in just a couple of minutes in the hands of an adult of limited intelligence such as this reviewer, and when it's done it looks really nice. Seriously! It is moulded in ABS rather than normal styrene, as it gives a lot more strength to the finished model. It has some fun features like an opening cockpit hatch in painted clear, and of course a little button on the bottom that activates a red light in the cockpit and plays one of three sounds, once you've removed the little tab that breaks the contact with the two LR44 batteries that are pre-installed. If you've watched the videos I posted up the other day, you'll be pleased to know that they're a lot better than the audio would suggest, and they are as follows: The TIE fighter screaming fly-past Firing cannons A muddled sounding explosion They're lifts from the previous films (I think) and you can hear other weapons firing in the 2nd sample, while the 3rd sample is a bit poor compared to the other two. The red light illuminates the coaming of the cockpit quite nicely, which can be seen through the faceted windscreen. I did make a short video demonstrating the sounds, but my heavy breathing ruined it a little, so I deleted it Conclusion If you buy it expecting a highly detailed model of a new TIE fighter, you might be a tad disappointed, although I think that it has potential if you're willing to put the effort in to turn it into a "proper" model. If you're a kid with a liking for Star Wars however, it will seem absolutely awesome to you, and I can't wait for my five year-old to see them when he comes home from school. Highly recommended if you understand what you're getting in the box. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
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