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  1. Good evening everyone, I thought it might be worth shifting my attempt at the RAF Centenary Groupbuild to the WIP area, seeing as I never had chance of meeting the deadline! (The build can be found by clicking here) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So, To bring everyone up to speed: -I plan to build a representation of the Panavia Tornado ZA326 in its iconic raspberry ripple colours. I'll be using the 1:32 Tornado GR1 kit from Revell and an abundance of plasticard, to model her with a plethora of panels open (nose, side electronics bays, ground equipment connection points, the spine, and maybe even an open engine bay!) Here are a few select images which visually describe the process so far: (Note that the paintwork on bits and bobs has been tidied up since these images were taken) What's the plan of action going forward, then? -Nose electronics bay -Nose hinge and detailing -Cockpit wiring -Fuselage panels and internal gubbins -Fuselage rescribing (+rivets, should they be required) -Engine bay (there might be a bit of a surprise in that regard, stay tuned!) -Wings -Other (landing gear, etc) It will be a slow (I've got a summer placement in a research lab at my university) but hopefully steady project. As for references that I'll be using: The good General's own Tornado build The Tornado SIG The ZA326 group's Flickr Stay tuned for more! Best wishes, Sam
  2. Now that I have got my Defiant completed I'm trying to tackle a few models I've had on the go for a while and this Hawker Hunter has been crying for attention for a while now so I decided to crack on with it. Revell 1:32 Hawker Hunter by Marks CVS, on Flickr I purchased it one Christmas from Modelzone for about £10 in the sale and is one of the best bargains I ever had and is definitely one of Revell's best kits in my opinion. I ended up getting the True Details cockpit for this one. In all honesty I don't think the cockpit tub and instrument panel offer much difference over the kit parts. Especially as everything is black inside the cockpit. Where this set adds value to the model is in the ejection seat. It is a stunning piece of resin and to date is probably the best after market resin ejection seat I've ever used. The sidewall detail is also very nice. The photos below show the improvements I made to the sidewall detail. Although resin sidewall detail looks nice as a stand alone part if it is fairly thick and is stuck onto the inside of the fuselage it can make the fuselage even thicker and look like a detailed part that was stuck on as opposed to part of the fuselage. I decided to sand the part down and get it as thin as I could and in the end I was just left with the detail part of the sidewall and managed to sand away all the backing completely. A couple of smaller boxes and wires were lost but these were easily replaced or reattached to the side of the fuselage. I wished I had taken a pic before I sanded them down to show the difference. Revell 1:32 Hawker Hunter by Marks CVS, on Flickr Revell 1:32 Hawker Hunter by Marks CVS, on Flickr Here is the unpainted cockpit tub with the kit rudder pedals. Revell 1:32 Hawker Hunter by Marks CVS, on Flickr Here is the painted cockpit. First off I sprayed the Interior Alclad black primer. I then made a couple of mixes of HU33 Black and HU67 Grey to add some shading. I then painted all the switches in gloss black to make them stand out. The Instruments were also painted gloss black and had the dial detail dry brushed in white. Paint chipping was added using a silver pencil. The floor near the rudder pedals also had some zinc chromate primer painted round the silver but needs further black painting over and around it to blend it in. Revell 1:32 Hawker Hunter by Marks CVS, on Flickr Revell 1:32 Hawker Hunter by Marks CVS, on Flickr Revell 1:32 Hawker Hunter by Marks CVS, on Flickr Revell 1:32 Hawker Hunter by Marks CVS, on Flickr Revell 1:32 Hawker Hunter by Marks CVS, on Flickr The ejection seat was almost perfect from the box. The only detail required was the ejection handles and an arming pin made out of a plastic disk and a piece of wire. Revell 1:32 Hawker Hunter by Marks CVS, on Flickr The cockpit needs a few touch ups before I can close up the fuselage but overall I'm really pleased with how it turned out. Thanks for looking.
  3. Here is my (soon to be launched), 'Black Watch' GY 23 Trawler out of Grimsby.
  4. Fresh from battle with the Revell B-17f "Memphis Belle" I'm getting ready to build Revell's 1/48 JU 88 A4 Some time ago I bought Eagle Editions' decal sheet which includes F1+BR winter camouflaged marking set One lesson I learned from the B-17 is an hour spent on the exterior is worth at least five on the interior, so I intend to work through the interior in a quality, but quick way, no scratch building and no AM Then focus on the exterior Obviously the winter camo is going to be interesting I note the instructions say to paint RLM70/71 splinter pattern first, then go over roughly in white, then add decals The picture they reference seems to support this: In this build @Kilroy1988 initially applies the white distemper over the green camo, then applies the decals, albeit he overspays some white over the decals afterward @Spitfire31 comments that the white would have been applied around the markings, leaving exposed green camo around the markings The Eagle Cals decal set has a drawing of how they see the plane, and the markings look clean, and there are no obvious gaps around them where the guys were avoiding overpainting them. There are gaps around the cockpit windows, they were obviously told to give the glass a wide berth So, what's it to be? Oh hang on, since writing that I've seen this: https://akinteractive.forumotion.com/t1694-winter-white-wash-ju-88 Wow, what a stunner! So looking carefully at Jamie's model we can see he believes they did paint round the lettering, but very carefully I think I'm going to: paint the green camo 2 x Klear Apply the decals 2 x Klear Mask the lettering crosses Spray very thin layer of thinned white, but try to avoid the markings Attack it from the front to back with a toothbrush or 240 grit sandpaper or both 1 x Klear Weathering, exhaust etc Last Klear Any thoughts?
  5. The work I produced this time is a T-80A Revell product and I finished it with a small Vignette. Any opinion is fine, so please give us a lot of opinions. Thank you.
  6. Whilst the Scottish National Scale Model Show we're just back from was bad use of our time in a business sense, I can find a positive slant on it if I consider that we paid £200 to find out that the public seemed to quite like my little motorised aeroplane and helicopter. The moving parts seemed to catch peoples' eyes from some distance and they'd come over to look and talk about it. Notwithstanding that I have no real idea where I may go that would allow anyone to see it, I have decided I'd like to pluck the Revell 1/48 Chinook that I bought in Devon with my then fiancee (we've been married 17 years now) out of the stash and build it as one of British Airways Helicopters' BV234s which I still have some childhood memories of. I did ask my dad @skyscooter if he had a favourite out of the fleet, and the response was that G-BISP and G-BISR were the best ones. From an engineering point of view, I interpret that to mean those two worked fairly well more than the rest of them did. I'm consciously avoiding G-BWFC which was a bad time for dad, although by way of showing it's a small world indeed, @Duncan B is friends with the captain who survived the fairly horrific crash's son. What the show at Perth did demonstrate was that the HH-3E and HC-130P models aren't actually very good. They were unreliable over the weekend and needed a fairly bit of impromtu repair. I told various people that I hadn't really thought them through properly and failed to make sufficient effort because I honestly wasn't confident it was all going to work. In the interests of not repeating avoidable mistakes, this time I'm trying to be a bit more methodical and plan out the whirly bits. I've started by attempting a scale drawing of the Chinook HC1 as kitted, from which I will adapt. I have a Cricut Maker which does cut plasticard well, so will cut new fuselage side inserts with the cabin windows using that in due course. Next I studied various photographs of the BV-234 and marked up the differences. There are more detail differences yet to capture, but for now I'm concentrating on big chunks of plastic in need of carving up. Which upon removing the original layer leaves me with something close to a BV 234 civil Chinook. I had some discussion with dad about the differences, and the relocated undercarriage was a new one, despite him knowing the civil machines literally inside out. It seems the MH-47E which first flew in 1991 is pretty much a BV 234 with military gadgets added and indeed it looks very similar in most respects except the cabin windows. The wheels are in a different place on the MH-47E compared to the CH-47A/D too, I discovered just today. As the Chinook has counter rotating and intermeshing rotors, just having two motors won't be good enough for this. They need to be properly geared together, so I've spent a bit of time on RS Components' website choosing mitre gears, spur gears and ball bearings to suit the required purpose. I've ordered a 300rpm geared motor from eBay, but can't confirm the precise dimensions until it arrives. It'll fit inside though - there's plenty space. The transmission will be 3mm diameter steel shafts. I will design a cradle structure to hold the ball bearings in place, and plan to insert the whole thing in through the floor. I won't use most of the Revell interior hence - the BV 234 was completely different inside anyhow and the small windows won't permit much viewing of the interior. I have two options for the drive layout, and will probably go for Option B as it's simpler and cheaper, needing 2 fewer spur gears and 2 fewer ball bearings. It took me until I saw Option A to realise I could just flip round one of the mitre gears and still achieve the correct rotational direction on each rotor mast. Option A Option B I'll sleep on this and will try to order the gears and bearings tomorrow Power will be external again. I have superimposed D cell batteries on the above layout and they're both too tight and will probably squash the undercarriage. Thanks for reading.
  7. Hi folk's it's been a thing with me the last few years to start the year with a big scale build last year it was Trumpeter's Mig 3 but this year probably the kit I've been looking forward to for a couple of year's since it was first announced.I am an unashamed fan of the Hurricane and probably built more in various scales over the years than any other aircraft closely followed by the Bf109.so box art to set the scene. Now no doubt the die hard Hurricane enthusiast's will pick over the bones of this kit but so far no howler's have come to light on review's I've seen but time will tell.Now price,I'm tight as a drum with buying kits but if I wanted to build this I knew I'd have to shell out the £42 asking price at my LMS but with for example Airfix's 1/72 Buccaneer was sitting on the shelf at £36:99 That's not too bad and let me tell you the box is crammed with superb moldings very very ICM like in style and texture. Anyway that's about it for an introduction build begins soon.
  8. Hi all, recently completed the revell Mk.IX Spitfire in 1/48 as part of my Israeli project. Build can be found in here: Good kit, but then again it is a Hasegawa rebox so that's to be expected. My first real go at a natural metal finish, I'd only it tried once before during a blitzbuild and the finish was horrific. Also my first real go at a Spitfire and definitely won't be my last. All OOB apart from the decals which were from Techmod. The decals were a little thick and struggled to settle on the various lumps and bumps of a Spitfire wing, but we got there in the end. Painted with Vallejo Aluminium and weathered using AK Interactive Pencils. Looking forward to tackling a 1/32 Spit for the Go Large GB, thanks for looking in!
  9. Hello forum, I'm embarking on a modelling project and was looking at the Revell 1/96th scale Spanish Galleon (Revell H-367) and the current 1/96th scale Revell Man O'War (Revell 05429). However, they do not seem to be in scale with one another? Am I missing something here?
  10. Here is my next entry for the GB. A few more parts than the last one, so I hope I do not lose interest! It is a bit bigger than the British Sovereign as well, almost twice the size and lots more decals. I thought I might have had to paint all those blue lines but it is not the case. Not sure how long I make a start, I have a KUTA build to get finished next.
  11. I shall joint with this part started 1970s released kit. I had started it on whim a couple of years ago and only got as far as getting the hull together (very poorly I might add) There are another 40+ parts to go
  12. Hey All, This build more or less ended up being a 'mojo-restoring' build following most of my projects stalling for one reason or another then making it onto the shelf of doom. Then, this model itself ended up there as well, ironically... The model itself is Revell's typical mid-2000s type releases in having some questionably overdone details such as the weld-seams on the fighting compartment roof, and multiple sink marks. But nonetheless it still posesesses some nice details, went together reasonably well and was an enjoyable build of a unique subject. I painted the model with Mr. Colour paints, guestimating the closest colour to what looked right, again, this was a mojo-restoring build and wasn't designed to win any medals! The Model was then dry-brushed and had filters applied as well as a pin wash. Detail painting was all with humbrol enamels. I wanted to go for a vehicle that looked like it had been on exercise somewhere like Luneburg Heath, for example. Therefore, once I had plucked it off the infamous shelf and decided to finish it, I took to it with Vallejo mud effects, coloured with acrylic paints to create a muddy look that wasnt traditional dark earth. Following this, I made up a camo net out of surgical gauze and PVA tinted with acrylic paint, then nicked a few pieces out of Tamiya's Modern US Accessory Set to busy up the vehicle. For the sake of argument, the bergen and rolled up tent on the side glacis are secured to the grousers in a way which isn't visible! 😂 Other than that, I used stretched sprue for the antennae and painted masking tape for the mine tape markings to suggest some format of wargames going on. The track is the kits rubberband track, which the age-old method of heating up a flat-head screwdriver to bond them together came in handy as otherwise they weren't even bonding with CA Glue. They were painted again with the similar, if not slightly darker mud colour I stippled over the running gear, and then with a fine sanding stick, brought back to expose the rubber pads and roughen them up a bit. I also used an old pencil rubber, shaped similarly to a boot, to create boot marks on the vehicle. The only other additions were the warning beacon on the rear deck, using literally a piece of plastic rod and an accurate armour clear resin beacon, and a metal gun barrel as the kit part was questionable. I would also highly recommend Tankograd's book on this subject, offered a wealth of pictures and information on the subject as well as its not-so-distant cousin the Raketenjagdpanzer. Thanks for looking, Sam
  13. Well, here she is! Revell's 1:48 SR-71 Blackbird in all her glory. This was a project asked of me around August last year, in order to be done for SMW'22 at Telford. It was a big project and down to the wire as I was still working on her at 2am on the Friday I was meant to be leaving for Telford! Anyway... Built for Revell UK, she shall be seen at various shows, both model related and not, advertising the Revell brand and what they are capable of producing, around the UK this year. She's now in their capable hands for the foreseeable future, so it was a good thing I was taking photographs of her at 2am, almost reminiscent of the night before Telford. Safe to say, I probably won't build anything this big again, especially to photograph as it was a nightmare to even get these half decent shots! Not a bad build and if you take your time, everything fits fine. a Few sink marks needed filling here and there but nothing major or to worry about. See you round! https://www.facebook.com/jamescommissionbuilds
  14. Hello guys, This is my entry for the grouptbuild. A bit of nostalgia from my younger years, having built at least three versions of the earlier boxings of this kit. This one os the 2018 reboxing of the 1996 kit. As such, it has quite a bit of flash on the parts, but nothing a sharp blade can't solve. The cooling fan will be complicated to remove without damaging, because the three contact points are connected to the blades themselves. I'm picturing myself breaking them so I don't end up disappointed 🙃 Here's the box. And here's today's progress, some painted parts on the sprues. Not pictured are the clear parts, which are on the box.
  15. le.gl.Einheits-PKW 4 (03339) 1:35 Carrera Revell After 1933, Germany began to build a modern army, initially in secret, but eventually they broke cover and threw off the shackles of the hated Versailles Treaty. This light off-road passenger car was built by the BMW-Werk Eisenach under the designation BMW 325, as well as Hanomag Type 20 and Stoewer. The vehicles were used as troop carriers (Kfz. 1), by repair-and-maintenance squads (Kfz. 2/40), by artillery reconnaissance sonic measurement squads (Kfz. 3) and by troop-level aerial defence (Kfz. 4). Almost 13,000 units were built in total until cessation. Between 1940 and 1943, only Stoewer continued to build the R 200 Spezial without the four-wheel steering (Typ 40). The cars weighed 1,775 kg empty (1,700 kg without the four-wheel steering). 90% of all military branches rejected the vehicle as "unfit for wartime service" in a 1942 enquiry, while the much simpler, lighter and cheaper Volkswagen Kübelwagen proved to be far superior in every respect. The Kit This is a reboxing of an ICM kit from 2021 with new decals by Cartograf, which is no bad thing. The kit arrives in an end-opening box, and contains seven sprues in grey styrene plus a single clear sprue and decal sheet, with instructions with integral painting guide at the rear in colour. Detail is good throughout, and the anti-aircraft fitment for the twin MG34 machine guns adds an extra interest. The chassis is first to be built up with dual springs supporting independent suspension and a driveshaft linking the two transfer boxes, plus the steering linkage front and rear. Fuel tank and stowage are placed to either side of the chassis rails and an exhaust pipe is threaded through to the engine compartment, which is filled with a full rendering of its 4-cylinder 2 litre Stoewer power plant over the front axle. The floor of the cab is built up and added to the chassis, then the three-part styrene wheels with moulded-in tread are fitted to each corner along with the radiator at the front. The firewall and a new rear passenger bulkhead are installed next with the former having instruments and transmission tunnel moulded in and pedals attached to the floor, adding five decals to the dash plus another stencil on a raised section of the floor. The cab sides, boot/trunk cover, engine cowling and gear shifter are all put in place before the seats are built up from base, cushion and curved back in the front, with a large tread-plated area for the gunners that has just enough room down the sides for spare ammo cans in racks lining the lip. Two rifle points are attached to the front bulkhead, bumpers/fenders and doors are all added with steering wheel, and windscreen also made up between the front and rear compartments with tripods racked on the rear deck of the vehicle. The rear light cluster is fitted to the rear quarters with a spare wheel in between them, and the folded canvas roof above the divide between compartments. Front lights and pioneer tools are attached to the fenders, and windscreen wipers are fitted into the depressions on the frame, with wiper-motor boxes moulded into the frame for completeness. The lights and windscreen all have clear parts so the passengers don't get bugs in their teeth. To build the anti-aircraft mount, the ammo cans are made up first, joined to the twin frame, which then has the gun mounts fitted on top. The guns are still fitted with their bipods, which along with the breech cover are moulded separately to the rest of the guns. If you’re a detailer, you may want to drill out the muzzles very carefully with a tiny bit in a pin vice. With the guns on their frame, the outer frame is fitted around it in two halves, slotting into the pivot points moulded into the frame, and supported by a cross-brace lower in the frame. Another bracing strut fits across the front and has a canvas brass catcher curtain suspended beneath it that is attached to the tube by a series of rings moulded into the part. The conical base is built from two parts and inserts into a socket in the underside of the outer frame, then it’s a case of making up the seat that fits at the very rear of the outer frame, and choosing the correct sighting part for your chosen pose, pivoting the guns to an appropriate elevation during the process. Markings There are three decal options on the sheet, all with varying paint schemes to give you a wide choice of look for your finished model. From the box you can build one of the following: Sturmgeschütz-batterie 666, Germany, 1940 Fallschirmjäger-Luftflotte 2, Libya-Tunisia, North Africa, 1942 Unknown Unit, Heeresgruppe B, 6 Armée, Ukraine, Summer 1942 <ul style="list-style-type:upper-alpha"> Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion A welcome re-release that will see a wider audience thanks to Carrera Revell’s excellent distribution network. Highly recommended. Carrera Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  16. Here is my latest completed project, I say project but in truth these subs are so small they could be knocked out pretty quickly. This is the Revell version, overall pretty easy to build and quite detailed really, even if the edges are a bit soft. I've taken an age with it as its essentially a keep your sanity project whilst working on my two carriers which have been slowly stalling. So finishing this off has also been a mojo restarter thankfully. I added eduard etch set for it which is basically railing and a couple of small details and a little bit of rigging aside that its out the box. She's pained by brush with humbrol and colour coats, then tried a pin wash on top of windsor and newton galleria gloss coat - didn't go well so it because a general all over wash, maybe it needed more gloss to work better. I matt coated it using W+N galleria again, I find it doesn't brush on well so I'll airbrush it next time. Overall its come out okay I guess, might do another one at some point, Thanks for looking Sam
  17. Marder I – 7.5cm Pa.K 40(Sf) auf Geschutzwagen FCM 36(f) (03292) 1:35 Carrera Revell The Marder series of Tank Destroyers were originally created to fill a need for mobile artillery that could be self-sufficient and yet work in unison with troops and tanks at the high speed of Blitzkrieg. The concept was to mount a PaK40 or captured Soviet 76 mm F-22 Model 1936 divisional field gun on a captured tank chassis that had been stripped of its superstructure and given an extended splinter shield around the gun and its crew, whilst leaving the roof open to the elements. Many of the initial Marder Is were built on French Lorraine or Czech 38(t) chassis, but a small number were constructed on the obsolete FCM 36, with a large shield that extended almost the whole length of the vehicle. FCM stands for Forges et Chantiers de la Méditerranée, who were based at Toulon in the French Riviera. They saw use on the Eastern Front initially, then also in the West after D-Day. Although they were intended to be mobile artillery that could destroy most tanks at a respectable range, they were only lightly armoured to protect their crews from shrapnel, shell splinters or light arms fire from all-round, which is somewhat better than a standard artillery piece would afford its crew, although the open roof would make a tempting target for grenades or demolition packs in close combat. It would have been uncomfortable for the crew in bad weather too, necessitating a temporary tarpaulin roof to keep the precipitation out, but very little of the cold. The Kit This is a reboxing by Revell of a substantial re-tool of ICM’s previous FCM 36 kits, adding the specialised parts for the conversion undertaken by Baustokommando Becker at the time. It arrives in a standard Revell end-opening box with seven sprues in grey styrene, two flexible black sprues of track links, a decal sheet and colour instruction booklet with profiles in the back pages for painting and markings. The original FCM 36 kit was only released in 2020, so it’s a modern tooling with plenty of detail and this boxing includes the majority of the interior due to the open roof. Construction begins with the lower hull, which is made up initially of the floor and two sides, with bulkheads added to the sides to support the lower sponson panels that give the vehicle more ground clearance. The running gear is made up from a three-part drive sprocket, eighteen sets of twin wheels that are fitted to eight double bogies and two singles, then the big idler wheels at the rear of the hull on sliding tensioning axles. The sloped armoured upper sponsons are installed along the way, with the mud-shedding apertures on each side. Two pairs of return rollers on the top run are glued inside the sponson, then the flexible black “rubberband” tracks are glued together, the instructions neglecting to mention that styrene glues won’t join them, so you should use super glue or epoxy instead. Each run has two sections, with the joints best placed in the centre of each run so they stand less chance of being seen on the finished model. Detail on the tracks is very nice, with twin guide horns and perforated centres like the real thing, but of course the links will curve round the ends, rather than give the correct faceted look that individual links provide. The upper hull is a new part, and has an opening at the front where the turret would have been, and has the two fender sides fitted to the rear before it is joined to the lower hull, hiding most of the upper track run. At the rear a large louvred panel and fixtures on the final-drive access hatches are glued on first, with the two exhausts and their mufflers slotted into grooves to their side, and a C-shaped manifold joining them at the top. Pioneer tools and towing eyes are the final parts for now, because the gun must be made up first. The PaK40 is begun by making up the cradle and inserting the breech, then the one-piece gun tube and part of the elevation mechanism. The cradle trunnions are held in place by the side frames, which are fixed to the arrow-shaped floor. More of the elevation mechanism is added, then the floor is mated to the hull, covering up the turret aperture, then having armoured supports slipped under the overhang. The gun’s double-layer splinter shield is slid over the barrel and glued to the gun, then the two faceted side panels are fitted out with shell racks, then attached to the side of the vehicle, to be joined by the rear wall after adding some stowage boxes inside and a pair of louvred panels to the sides. Twenty-eight shells are supplied on the sprues to be slotted into the holes in the racks nose down, then some spare tracks are fixed to the sides, and the self-defence MG34 machine gun is fitted to the front shield on a short pintle-mount. An outer splinter shield slides over the gun, and then you can put on the two-part muzzle brake, which gives the impression of a hollow barrel. Markings There are eight markings options on the decal sheet, with a nice variation between them, all of which saw action (or training exercises) in 1943 and 1944, two of them having alternative schemes worn at different times during those periods, and one is from the same unit with a variant of scheme. From the box you can build one of the following: Special event of new vehicles at Matford Werke Plant in Poissy, France, May 1943 First Marder during assembly line at Matford Werke Plant in Poissy, France, Early 1943 Sturmgeschutz-Abteilung 200, Normandy France, Spring 1944 Roll-out of first production vehicle Matford Werke Plant, France, early 1943 Sturmgeschutz-Abteilung 200, Art.Rgt.Stab z.b.V-931, Normandy France, June 1944 Sturmgeschutz-Abteilung 200, Art.Rgt.Stab z.b.V-931, Normandy France, June 1944 Schnelle Brigade West, Art.Rgt.Stab z.b.V-931, mobility and firing trials, France, 1943 Schnelle Brigade West, Art.Rgt.Stab z.b.V-931, mobility and firing trials, France, 1943 Decals are by Italian company Zanchetti, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness, and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion Another peculiar-looking, esoteric and interesting example of German re-use of captured vehicles, and a nicely detailed one with a wide choice of decal and camouflage scheme options. Highly recommended. Carrera Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  18. This is the older Revell kit, the PAH.2, which came out in the very early 90's, not to be confused with the new mold Revell kit, which has very nice Tiger Meet decals in it and has a lot more surface and cockpit detail. However I decided as I got this for free, I might as well build it for what it is. Fit is generally pretty good, as mentioned detail is lacking somewhat, you do get decals for the instrument panel and seat belts but the decals in my kit were wrecked. Thus I sourced some from another helo kit so they are not 100% accurate. It makes into a decent shelf sitter, although I'll probably take it to a model show or two as a table filler. If you do want to build a very early Tiger then this is your kit. It's not a bad model, just basic. Thanks for looking.
  19. My apologies for being late on parade chaps, I have been wrapping up a build for the Century Fighters GB (finished yesterday). My first entry for the GB is this Revell Airbus A319 which will be finished in British Airways centenary markings when sporting BEA's Red Square retro scheme. Here are the box and contents photos along with the 26Decals sheet. by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr by John L, on Flickr Time to get on with it now. Cheers. John
  20. Salutations! I am pleased to present my freshly completed He-177 A-5 as flown by Kampfgeschwader 40 on anti-shipping missions over the Atlantic. It carries the Ruhrstahl FX 1400 "Fritz X" radio guided bomb. I think it's a handsome design with gangly landing gear that makes it resemble more of a wasp than a gryphon, as its nickname implies! This was a kit that I wanted to build for a few years, but I didn't feel that my skills were up to the task until recently. As expected, the build wasn't all smooth sailing - not a single clear part fit correctly, leading to some creative work with my hobby knife around the cockpit glazing, and very careful gluing. It is entirely brush painted. The decals were thick and this led to some silvering, but I'm not too bothered by that. I did the best that I could. I was inspired to continue working on my kit by the excellent result that @Roman Schilhart achieved with his model a couple months ago, so thank you!
  21. One of my latest models from 2019/2020. was a lot of fun to build, because there is nothing complicated. The only thing I did that I riveted the model. weathering and painting in the most usual methods we mostly know. sometimes it’s good to pick a model from the stash that you want to build 20 years ago !!! have fun….. Cheers Andy
  22. Hi all and here's my first for this year, Grumman's model 303E which would become the F-14 Tomcat. Built for the Prototypes, Racers, Research, Record breakers, Special schemes megaGB here on the forum. The short build thread is here but to recap: Kit: Revell 1/72 F-14D converted Paints: Tamiya and Mr Hobby Acrylics Decals: Caracal for 'F-14 Tomcat, the Early Years' Mods: Earlier seats; modified wing gloves and fences with plasticard; earlier TF-30 engine nozzles; extended 'boat' tail; nose pitot from stretched sprue; removed lumps and bumps The #1 prototype made its short maiden flight on December 21st 1970 with Grumman chief test pilot Robert Smythe in the front and project test pilot William Miller in the back. On 30 December, on the aircraft's second flight, the aircraft was lost due to failure of a hydraulic pump which caused a total loss of flight controls. The crew ejected safely and the aircraft crashed short of the runway at Grumman's Calverton plant, New York. Revell_1_72_Grumman_F-14_prototype_build (10) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_1_72_Grumman_F-14_prototype_build (15) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_1_72_Grumman_F-14_prototype_build (16) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_1_72_Grumman_F-14_prototype_build (5) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_1_72_Grumman_F-14_prototype_build (19) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_1_72_Grumman_F-14_prototype_build (6) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Thanks for looking, take care and happy modelling. Cheers, Dermot
  23. With one Luft ’46 project out of the way, I fancied digging another one out of my extensive pile of them on Tuesday night. My chosen victim was this: Not a massive amount on the sprues, but nicely moulded. The clear parts are also nice & clear, but I may give them a dip before they make it onto the model even so: Decals aren’t looking bad considering they’re 25 years old: I managed to get a lot of parts off the sprues quite quickly. And even glued the halves of the wing sections (all three of them!) together: And a load of parts mounted ready for painintg: And the rudder pedals glued on. I’ve actually installed these upside down to the instructions, because they just looked wrong the “correct” way up: As that was the end of Tuesday’s work, I’m going to break the post here and do another for yesterday’s work. James
  24. my latest finished model of the ship "Batavia" from Revell, I used pulleys from Shipmodel - 340 pcs in total, I made the sails, sewed them at home, the rest is classic, oil paints, Tamiya paints, Tamiya pigments and figures. The model represents her last voyage, the ship did not reach its destination and crashed on the "Horning reef".
  25. Hi folks, I have been lurking around these forums for quite some time now and very much enjoyed it, especially the work in progress and ready for inspection sections. I finally summoned my courage to present some of my own models to the community hoping to receive some honest feedback which will ideally permit me to improve my skills or to question my techniques. This is the recently released Fw190F-8 by Revell, built OOB. Just some minor adaptations like drilled out guns, braking wires and antenna cable (stretched sprue). I use a mixture of Mr Hobby and AK acrylic colours. Although the FW190 is a very popular model, I hope that this will be of some interest to you. The built was hassle free and quite some fun. As mentioned - any constructive criticism most appreciated. Thanks for watching!
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