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Found 1,431 results

  1. Corsairfoxfouruncle

    RED DEVIL DEUCE

    Hello all this is my 1/48th Revellogram F-102 Deuce. When i came back to modeling in 2014 i searched high and low for one of these. It became my proverbial “unicorn” model. I was so happy when Revell repopped these last year. I had bought the decals two years prior in anticipation of finding a kit. The Decals represent a Deuce from the 431st Fighter Squadron SAC Zaragoza Spain in 1961. Without further talk i present to you my deuce. A photo with my N.A. F-100D an original Monogram release. That makes 3 of 6 Centuries that i need for my collection. I already have an F-104 in my collection. I just need a VooDoo, Thud, & Dart to finish of the series. Here’s a link to the build if you're curious. Please feel free to Question, comment, or joke ? Dennis
  2. RMP2

    1/48 Jaguar IM

    Hi guys. Seeing as my Hunter bits still arent here for the 60s NATO GB I may as well make a start with this and get my hand back in. Its Revells 1/48 Jaguar GR3, same as the Airfix et all offering but with decent decals. This one seems to be of the lesser warped variety which is nice, but I have plenty of filler on stand-by never the less.... Extras include a resin seat, the relevant decals (second sheet stashed to cover the serial number error), a Sea Eagle missile that was kindly donated for the build, resin nose and a resin Harpoon missile that might be a little Whifi for these camo colours/period, but think Ill be building it anyway for display next to the model for myself outside of the whole GB just to be sure Im good with rules etc. Pretty sure I had some weighted wheels too, they may or may not turn up. The evidence/victims: And the very, very familiar state of affairs: Apologies for the rough photos, my phone is pants and my camera has done a runner it seems. I will get that sorted for future posts. There. Committed! Good luck all! Rob
  3. Shar2

    Type VIIC/41 U-Boat. 1:350

    Type VIIC/41 U-Boat Revell 1:350 Type VIIC/41 was a slightly modified version of the successful VIIC and had basically the same engine layout and power. Armament was the same with 5 torpedo tubes (4 at the bow and one at the stern). The biggest difference was that these boats had a stronger pressure hull giving them more depth to evade attack under (operational 120m and crush depth at 250m against VIIC's 100/200). They also had lighter machinery to compensate for the added steel in the hull making them actually slightly lighter than the VIIC. All the type VIIC/41 boats from U-1271 onwards had the mine fittings deleted. The Model The model comes in the new, glossy, but otherwise standard Revell end opening box with a picture of a submarine at sea on the front. Inside there is one large sprue, one small sprue and the two hull halves and deck, all in a medium grey styrene. The moulding on all parts is nicely done, with the vent holes and other detail on the hulls looking really nice. Being a submarine, construction is pretty simple as can be seen by the number of sprues. The build starts with the two hull halves being joined together followed by the deck. The foreplanes are then attached, as are the prop shafts, with integrally moulded fairing and A frame supports, then the propellers themselves. The sternplanes are then fitted, along with the rudders and rudder frame. The tower is assembled from two halves, the command deck, 20mm gun deck and the 37mm gun deck. The foreward periscope is then fitted, followed by the two piece 37mm cannon, and the two twin 20mm cannon are fitted. The main attack periscope is the attached, along with the railings around the 20mm gun deck and the 37mm bandstand. The tower is then glued to the deck, as are the fore and aft mounted guard rails and the snorkel in the raised position. The model is then affixed to the display stand. Decals The single sheet of decals provides markings for U998 and U1004, which also includes the ensign, (without swastika). The decals are nicely produced win good register and slightly matt. The paint schemes though, shows them with the yellow stripe on the tower depicting that they were being used in the training squadron. Leave this off if you want to depict her as an operational boat. Conclusion This is a very nice model of an late U-Boat from a time when Germany was improving all their U-Boat forces. The diminutive size of the completed model means it won’t take up much space in the cabinet. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
  4. Good evening everyone, I thought it might be worth shifting my attempt at the RAF Centenary Groupbuild to the WIP area, seeing as I never had chance of meeting the deadline! (The build can be found by clicking here) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So, To bring everyone up to speed: -I plan to build a representation of the Panavia Tornado ZA326 in its iconic raspberry ripple colours. I'll be using the 1:32 Tornado GR1 kit from Revell and an abundance of plasticard, to model her with a plethora of panels open (nose, side electronics bays, ground equipment connection points, the spine, and maybe even an open engine bay!) Here are a few select images which visually describe the process so far: (Note that the paintwork on bits and bobs has been tidied up since these images were taken) What's the plan of action going forward, then? -Nose electronics bay -Nose hinge and detailing -Cockpit wiring -Fuselage panels and internal gubbins -Fuselage rescribing (+rivets, should they be required) -Engine bay (there might be a bit of a surprise in that regard, stay tuned!) -Wings -Other (landing gear, etc) It will be a slow (I've got a summer placement in a research lab at my university) but hopefully steady project. As for references that I'll be using: The good General's own Tornado build The Tornado SIG The ZA326 group's Flickr Stay tuned for more! Best wishes, Sam
  5. Hello All, Attached are some pictures of the start of my Revell Halifax build. I expect this one to go as long as the B-17, about 15 months. I usually build multiple kits at a time so that extends projects but 15 months is actual time...I'm kind of slow when it comes to larger projects. I am using Eduards Big Ed set. A first for me. I'm not much into photo-etch so we'll see how it goes. Also....the Revell boxes.....well how can I put this without being vulgar......are HORRIBLE. Well in any case the kit has been washed of mold release and I started on the cockpit area. Well here we go mates on with the pics. All the Best! Don The kit seat has been highly modified. The photo-etched for the seat was not what I thought would be a good representation so I went for this method. The floor board is photo-etched which looks fantastic. The cockpit bulkhead at the start of detailing. Rolling the metal was easy if you have a nice set of round end tweezers. There's suppose to be a metal shelving bracket around the two rectangular boxes...it did not fit. This is not uncommon with photo-etched parts in my experience. I'll make an alternative or of bits of plastic.
  6. dadofthree

    Revell 747 questions

    I am currently planning/collecting models/parts for building 3 Revell 747s. The first is a 747-400 in Thai Air livery, second a 747-600 conversion in Gulf Air Livery and thirdly a 747-8i in an as yet undecided scheme. Here's my first question, should I fill the panel lines as they are quite obviously too deep?
  7. Hi, Here are a few photos of my latest model, Revell's Lancaster B III in 1/72 scale dressed in the livery of a 50 Squadron machine which took part in such raids as Peenemunde, Hamburg and Berlin during mid 1943. It took a while to build, approx 5 months but went together beautifully and a thoroughly recommended model. I hope you like it, Russ
  8. Hi everyone this is my first post on here (I accidentally posted this on the wrong discussion earlier but haven't found a way to remove the post) and I thought I'd share my first build in years. Revells 1/48 Tornado Gr4. It's thankfully gone together with no issues, I was assuming it was going to be a headache but so far so good! Also if anyone has any tips on highlighting panel lines or weathering in general I'm all ears as I'm useless at it. Also can anyone recommend a good clear matt? Ive tried Humbrol and Mr Colour and they even after being stirred thoroughly were coming out gloss. Any info would be appreciated.
  9. my last kit , enjoy : voila voila
  10. DaveyGair

    Halifax B MkII/Ia nose side windows

    A few years ago when contemplating getting back into modelling, after being asked what I fancied for Christmas off my youngest daughter, I received the then newish tooling of the Revell 1/72nd merlin powered Halifax. I read about the shortcomings in the engine department but wasn't too bothered, but saw an AML upgrade set cheapish on a well known auction site so bought that. I'm going to do one of the decal options in the AML set, L9613. I noted having to open the large side windows and filling in some of the small round windows, but also there is a square side window behind the triangular one on the starboard side nose, a mirror of the port side. The kit does not have this option, but it's no great hardship to do the opening. However, I've trawled the internet and cannot find a single photo of an early Halifax with this other square window on the starboard side, just the port side, as per the kit. The only photo I came across of L9613 is of the port side. Is this an error in the AML drawings? The other decal option, BB340, has the same extra square window. Just out of interest I looked through the Xtradecal sheets and the only aircraft with this starboard side square nose window was a B Mk 1 special. Can anyone help? Was this a feature on some early Halifax's? Normally I would have probably built it as per the kit, but want to 'get it right', well, as much as possible. Sorry for the long post for a simple question. Davey.
  11. Here is my 4477th TES "Red Eagle" MiG-21 F-13. Around two dozen MiGs were operated in the USA at Tonopah to expose pilots to various MiGs. I replaced the kit seat and wheels and used aftermarket decals. Painted with MRP. Thanks for looking!
  12. Latest one done, Revells Thunderbolt, At last an American aircraft in American colours in my collection. Done in 56th Sqn colours based at Boxted in Essex. I've been a bit snobbish about doing a Revells kit since coming back to modelling but I picked this up for the princely sum of £7 and started it due to my Airfix Me262 not going so well and have been impressed with fit and detail. Made up OOB using Tamiya and Valleo acylics. The box art shows bombs and a centre line tank but these are not included, instead 10 HVR rockets and P38 drop tanks are supplied. Weathering done with oils and a silver pencil. IMG_8953 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMG_8955 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMG_8956 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMG_8958 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMG_8969 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMG_8968 by neil Connor, on Flickr IMG_8965 by neil Connor, on Flickr
  13. Star Wars: Solo – Han's Speeder (06769) 1:28 Revell Star Wars: Solo is the latest SW universe film tracing the younger years of smuggler Han Solo, and his hi-jinks before he hooked up with Ben Kenobi and Luke on Tatooine, which changed everyone's lives immensely. I've not seen this episode, but at some point Han gets chased by Imperial troops on Speeder bikes, who don't have the benefit of knowing how that turned out for them on Endor, but I can bet it doesn't end well for them. This is Han's personal ride, and I think I'm starting to spot a pattern. He doesn't maintain his gear well, or if he does he doesn't give a hoot about the cosmetic side of things, as this big blue speeder has panels missing, and bears an uncanny resemblance to a book, but with echoes of Luke's speeder from back on Tatooine, as well as the look of an American sedan car from the 70s. The Kit Revell have the license for Star Wars model kits in Europe and the West, and it's good to see them back in action after recent problems resulted in a new management as well as ownership of the company. Solo's raft of new ship and vehicle designs have been committed to plastic in the Build & Play range, which my Son is very fond of and he can still be found playing with the originals a couple of years later, with their original batteries still going strong. His eyes lit up when he saw these, so there's little doubt where they'll be going the minute I've finished with them. All three of the kits in the initial launch have standard-sized boxes, with plenty of card inserts packing out the parts to prevent scuffs from rattling around, and parts bagged in small numbers where appropriate. There are twenty nine parts in this kit, and it is surprisingly large, reminding me of the huge cars from 70s shows like Kojak and Starsky & Hutch that wallowed over bumps and round corners. Again, detail is quite good, and this one includes a Han figure, plus a trio of stickers for the asymmetric lining down the intact side of the vehicle. Construction begins with the lower hull, with two flaps installed to give it that "float" from the movie. The cockpit tub goes in next, and on top of that goes the silver lights & sound module, with F-16-style exhausts and clear inners that diffuse the blue glow of the LEDs. Open panels are added to the rear and right side, and the upper hull press-fits on top, with the instrument panel, steering yoke and more greeblies added to the rear. The entire left side of the hull is open to the atmosphere, and a silver insert slots in with the front end of the engine added. The nose is black, with a silver insert, and this clips onto the front of the hull, with another insert in the bonnet/hood, that Lego-style windscreen and a pair of Millennium Falcon-esque seats in the cab. Han is supplied with separate arms, one hand falling to the control yoke, the other to the centre console and he bears a passing resemblance to the real character. The odd asymmetric spoiler slots into a pair of holes in the hull, needing some bending to fit, then you remove the battery isolator and press the button at the rear of the centre console to access the sounds, which automatically activates the blue exhausts at the same time. The two sounds are start-up and running (reminiscent of Luke's speeder), and a general movement with blaster fire accompaniment that's difficult to give a better name. Conclusion I'm still not keen on the design of the prop that this model is based upon although I have to admit that it does look pretty handsom in that top pic of the complete model, but as a toy it's cracking! The fold-out floaters are a good idea, but bit prone to closing when you're handling the model, and younger kids might have trouble getting those stickers nice & straight, but with a modeller nearby to help out (that's you!) they should look just fine. Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  14. I managed to pick this one up on ebay last month for the bargain price of £7 & have been itching to get started on it. It's actually the Eduard kit, just in a Revell box & with Revell instructions. No photo etch stuff, but I will be trying out Bob's Buckles for the first time. I received 30 eyelets & 20 turnbuckles this week - boy are they small ! After studying my pics of the Shuttleworth's F2B I can see that I'm going to need more. Paint will be mostly Vallejo model air, I don't have any colours that match the three main colours, so that's another order required before too long - lucky the kit cost next to nothing. I started putting the cockpit parts together using the revell instructions, but decided I didn't like their colour scheme, so the floor changed from Silver to wood. I should have done the grey & wood of the instrument panel the other way round, but I'm still pleased with the way it's come out. WP_20170611_17_00_07_Pro_LI by Andy Moore, on Flickr WP_20170611_16_11_02_Pro_LI by Andy Moore, on Flickr All the inside is now painted, well as far as I'm going to anyway - the bracing wires look a bit messy, if I was doing it again I think I'd paint some stretched sprue & stick it in place of the moulded wires. WP_20170611_17_23_01_Pro_LI by Andy Moore, on Flickr WP_20170611_18_03_01_Pro_LI by Andy Moore, on Flickr This is so much more fun than a grey jet fighter
  15. Sukhoi Su-33 Navy Flanker (03911) 1:72 Revell The SU-33 is a carrier based development of the SU-27 that has suffered from the dearth of finances following the break-up of the Soviet Union at the end of the last millennium. Soon after it was taken into service by the Soviet Navy, funding was reduced to the military as a whole, and as a result only 24 airframes were ever built. Overseas sales were attempted, but none came to fruition for various reasons, and further sales to the Russian Navy weren't an option, as in 2009 they decided on the navalised Mig-29K going forward. Beginning with the basic SU-27 airframe, the internal structure and landing gear were beefed up to cope with the additional stresses of hard carrier landings, the wings were enlarged to provide additional lift, and both the wings and stabs were fitted with folding mechanisms for storage below decks. The first aircraft embarked on the Admiral Kuznetsov in 1995 after substantial testing, but the cancellation of other carriers led to the projected buy of 72 airframes being cut back to the aforementioned 24. They are being drawn down in favour of the Mig-29K, and will be refurbished to replace their outdated avionics for future use elsewhere. The Kit For this kit Revell have brought us the excellent Zvesda plastic in their own box. Construction begins with the cockpit. The ejector seat is built up, if adding the pilot figure than the seat pad and belts part can be left off. If you dont want to add a pilot figure in the cockpit then a standing figure is also included to pose next to the model. The seat and control column are added to the tub and this is inserted into the top fuselage half along with the control panel (instruments provided as a decal). Construction then moves to the lower fuselage. The front gear bay is assembled and added in, along with the main gear bays. Once these are in the fuselage half's can be joined together. Next up the engines are made up and installed. The rear cone and burner ring are added at the back the the middle ring is added, followed by the afterburner section. Te inner sections of the tail planes are then added to the fuselage. Next up the large intake tunnels are built up, an engine fan front is provided for the rear, additionally FOD blanks are supplied as well. Fuselage and centre line pylons are added at this stage followed by the two ventral strakes. The two vertical tails are then added. The outer tailplanes can be added in the down position, or folded. If the main wings are to be folded then the fold mechanism is added at this stage. Back at the front the canard wings are added along with the nose cone. The cannon muzzle is fitted along with the HUD, front screen and IR sensor. Construction then moves to the landing gear. At the front the two wheels are added to the leg along with the landing lights and a couple of struts. The front gear door has its hinged and retraction strut added. The mains have a hub and single part tyre added to the leg, retraction struts are added and the doors get their hinges and struts added. The outer wing panels are made up, there are conventional upper/lower parts with a separate flap section (different ones for lowered and raised) and the wingtip missile rail to add. Two weapons pylons are added to each wing, there is a choice of pylons but no mention of which ones to use, so check your references. The wing panels can now be added either in the folded or unfolded positions. Finishing up weapons can be added where needed, The main canopy is added, along with the nose cone and its pitot. The large upper airbrake can be added in the closed or open position. A boarding ladder is provided if the modeller wants to use it. Decals The decals for this kit are printed in Italy by Cartogrf so that assures you will have no problems with them. From the sheet one of two aircraft can be built; Red 78, 279th KIAP (1st Sqn) Admiral Kuznetsov 2017 Red 86, 279th KIAP (2nd Sqn) Admiral Kuznetsov 2017 The kit provides a comprehensive set of stencils and very good instruction for there placement. Conclusion Revell give us the great Zvesda plastic with new decals. Our very own Flankerman said this was in his opinion the Best moulded Su-33 in this scale and that's good enough for me. Very highly recommended. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  16. Hello, This is a plane which was only on technical drawings at the end of the WWII. Revell has changed this documentation into model. It is very good kit with nice and sharp panel lines. Great fit and easy to build. Colours and scheme are just my imagination how this "German secret" might looks if it will go into action. Airbrushed with Revell aqua.
  17. Hi folk's,and to celebrate I thought let's go small,Spadad tipped me off about these little Revell gem's so here's the Seahawk the Blackhawk is next on the list, what a superb little stress free build it was,even a passible front cockpit and at just over six quid good value for money especially if you're pushed for space. Anyway firstly the this is how small it is shot and thanks for looking in.
  18. I wasn’t originally intending to document this build, but following a brief exchange in the Maritime Discussion section of the forum I have decided that I should share my trials and tribulations with this kit. Unlike my other build posts I am starting this part way through my build so there are no photographs of the box, instructions or sprue. So for the pre- amble; I was given this kit of HMS Invincible as a birthday present and it has been in languishing in my stash for a good few years along with the White Ensign PE set which I bought to go with it. Revell no longer make this kit but it is still available through Dragon along with Illustrious and Ark Royal in later guises. I have elected to depict Invincible as she was prior to the Falklands war because I have a soft spot for the blue/white colour scheme of the Sea Harriers. It is my intention to keep to the original kit as much as possible but there will be one or two minor tweeks to the kit but nothing on the scale of Bootneck’s Victorious model so this should be quite a straight forward build. As I have already mentioned I have made a start by gluing the hull components together and converting the model to waterline in common with my other ship models. This was a relatively simple evolution as the kit has a moulded line for a guide. The fo’c’sle part needed a bit of filling to mould it into the shape of hull but on the whole the parts fitted together nicely. This is the point where the modifications to the kit start. There are openings in the “garden wall” that surrounds the fo’c’sle that need to be cut out. These are for the fairleads for the fo’c’stle mooring equipment. The fairleads themselves (which I have not fitted yet) are included on the PE fret. I am using a set of Jecobin plans for reference along with a number of books I had picked up along the way. Sticking with the hull (if you excuse the pun); I have removed the moulded on markings on the flightdeck. However it is important to remember the locations of the aircraft lifts, and so I scored the positions around a template. I was tempted at cutting out a lift and depict an aircraft being moved from the hangar to the flightdeck but thought better of it in the end as it didn’t fit with the minor tweek philosophy. Next steps for the hull will be to paint the flightdeck and start the fitting the photoetch grills and details for the cut outs. Thanks for looking.
  19. Kit manufacture: Revell Scale: 1/72 Type:Lancaster B.III Special "Dambusters" Extras used: Eduard Photoetch interior and Masking set, brass guns, resin wheels, Xtradecals. Paints and colours used: Tamiya Rubber Black, Nato Black and Sea Blue (interior, underside, wheels) Gloss Black (props, undercarriage), Mr Color Dark Earth and Dark Green (RAF WWII). Gloss coat Alclad Aqua Gloss, matt cost Vallejo polyurethane Matt Varnish. Weathering wash Flory's Dark Dirt (top) and a mix of Light Wash and Black for underside. Hi all! So, I've got the Lanc finished, and roughly in time for the Dambusters anniversary! I would love to say that was mu intention, but in truth it was just coincidence. Still, it's nice to be able to commemorate the event with this build. The build thread got hit with Photobucket, and as such got semi-abandoned. The kit is Revell! It's good value for money (especially as I got it second hand) and the external detail is beautiful. However, the fit in places isn't great. It's not a bad kit by any stretch but does require quite a bit of work in places. The engines to wing join was the worst, but some of the glasswork was the most annoying. The kit decals are poor, out of register and not very receptive of decal solutions. I used Xtradecals decal sheet which were absolutely stunning. I didn't seal one side of the code numbers very well so they tore a bit with weathering, but decided to leave it a bit weathered! I used a few AM bits. Eduard interior set (waste of time, you can see nothing!), Resin wheels (forgot the make, a bit of work needed but worth it) and brass guns which are exquisite, ruined only by the chump fitting them! Also worth nothing I stuck all the small bits like activators on early doors to get a better hold. That was a silly idea, they've all gone! So here we go: That's about that! Thank you for checking in Val
  20. So guys and girls, Here she is. After almost seeing the darkness of the round archive (aka dustbin), she made it. The whole adventure can be followed in this WIP So I learned some stuff here. First how to prime with a spray can, secondly I will cut the decals following recesses next time and gloss coat them. Third I use an accryllic gloss and it is possible gluing parts after that coat with standard glue.I feel my painting skills have improved a bit and I like the highlighted effects like on the machinegun cover. The Revell kit is nice with good detail and looks good to me. I leave the accurency issues to those interested. It just has the gap at the wingroots as fault. The rest what is wrong is what I have done. The model only comes in a closed canopy variant and I took a spare from an Airfix kit. When I see what detail of the cockpit still is visible I will not do that again in this scale. Also I havent attached the extra machine guns. Though I needed to drill quite some holes, the holes for those guns arent specified. Carefull reading of the instructions could have saved me but when I noticed it was too late. Also I didnt attach the antenna wire because I couldnt find an attacment point on the copula. Experimenting on the spare copula made conclude that I will mess up the copula so I didnt try. It seems I have trouble with installing the legs of the plane also this time it was troublesome at least, dont look into the wheel wells! For the rest enjoy and feel free to comment. Greetings TC Sorry for double posting the link cant remove it
  21. Hello all, here is a Revell 1/32 Spitfire I have been building to break the slow going Ju-87 build I am on. It is painted with Humbrol colours and with only seat belts added to the standard kit. It builds ok with a few fit and mould issues, but nothing to serious to worry about. Hope you all like it, all comments are welcome :-)
  22. Hey everyone, have been working on this for a month or so now, you can find the WIP here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235031236-revell-platinum-1144-uss-fletcher/&tab=comments Thank you all for stopping by, think I will be taking on Takom's Chieftain next!
  23. Hello! This is Revell's re-issue of their Heinkel HE219, with new parts to make it as the earlier A-0. Built virtually out of the box, except for some Eduard etched seat belts. I used Xtracolor enamels for the camouflage. Straight forward kit, no real pitfalls, but it needs a lot of nose weight to keep it off it's tail! Thanks for looking, Angelo
  24. Having already edited Rafale B and M kits in 1/48th Revell has surprisingly not yet in its range the most produced variant I mean the single-seat Rafale C. This will be done in 2018. Don't forget the Korean mix (B+M=C !) edited once upon a time by the Revell plastic injection contractor: ACE (Link) - ref. 3901 - Dassault Rafale C Source: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/RV3901 V.P.
  25. Shar2

    MTB PT-109. 1:72

    MTB PT-109 Revell 1:72 PT-109 belonged to the PT 103 class of MTB’s, hundreds of which were completed between 1942 and 1945 by Elco. PT-109's keel was laid 4 March 1942 as the seventh Motor Torpedo Boat (MTB) of the 80-foot-long (24 m) 56 ton class, built by Elco and was launched on 20 June. She was delivered to the Navy on 10 July 1942, and fitted out in the New York Naval Shipyard in Brooklyn. The boats were manned by 3 officers and up to 12 crewmen. The Elco boats were the largest PT boats operated by the U.S. Navy during World War II, built with strong wooden hulls of two layers of 1-inch (2.5 cm) mahogany planking. Powered by three 12-cylinder 1,500 horsepower (1,100 kW) Packard petrol engines (one per propeller shaft), their designed top speed was 41 knots (76 km/h). For space and weight-distribution reasons, the center engine was mounted with the output end facing aft, with power directly transmitted to the propeller shaft. Because the center propeller was deeper, it left less of a wake, and was preferred by skippers for low-wake loitering. Both wing engines were mounted with the output flange facing forward, and power was transmitted through a Vee-drive gearbox to the propeller shafts. The engines were fitted with mufflers on the transom to direct the exhaust under water, which had to be bypassed for anything other than idle speed. These mufflers were used not only to mask their own noise from the enemy, but to be able to hear enemy aircraft, which were rarely detected overhead before firing their cannons or machine guns or dropping their bombs. The principal offensive weapon was her torpedoes. She was fitted with four 21-inch (53 cm) torpedo tubes containing Mark VIII torpedoes. They weighed 3,150 lb (1,429 kg) each, with 386-pound (175 kg) warheads and gave the tiny boats a punch at least theoretically effective even against armoured ships. Their typical speed of 36 knots (67 km/h) was effective against shipping, but because of rapid marine growth build-up on their hulls in the South Pacific and austere maintenance facilities in forward areas, American PT boats ended up being slower than the top speed of the Japanese destroyers and cruisers they were tasked with targeting in the Solomons. Torpedoes were also useless against shallow-draft barges, which were their most common targets. With their machine guns and 20 mm cannon, the PT boats could not return the large-calibre gunfire carried by destroyers, which had a much longer effective range, though they were effective against aircraft and ground targets. Because they were fueled with aviation gasoline, a direct hit to a PT boat's engine compartment sometimes resulted in a total loss of boat and crew. In order to have a chance of hitting their target, PT boats had to close to within 2 miles (3.2 km) for a shot, well within the gun range of destroyers; at this distance, a target could easily maneuver to avoid being hit. The boats approached in darkness, fired their torpedoes, which sometimes gave away their positions, and then fled behind smoke screens. Sometimes retreat was hampered by seaplanes dropping flares and bombs on the boats. The Elco torpedo-launching tubes were powered by a 3-inch (76 mm) black powder charge to expel the torpedo from the tube. Additionally, the torpedo was well greased so it would slide out of the tube. Sometimes, the powder charge caused the grease to ignite upon firing, and the resulting flash could give away the position of the PT boat. Crews of PT boats relied on their smaller size, speed and maneuverability, and darkness, to survive. Ahead of the torpedoes on PT-109 were two depth charges, omitted on most PTs, one on each side, about the same diameter as the torpedoes. These were designed to be used against submarines, but were sometimes used by PT commanders to confuse and discourage pursuing destroyers. PT-109 lost one of her two Mark 6 depth charges a month before Kennedy showed up when the starboard torpedo was inadvertently launched during a storm without first deploying the tube into firing position. The launching torpedo sheared away the depth charge mount and some of the foot rail. PT-109 had a single, 20 mm Oerlikon anti-aircraft mount at the rear with "109" painted on the mounting base, two open rotating turrets (designed by the same firm that produced the Tucker automobile), each with twin, .50-caliber (12.7 mm) anti-aircraft machine guns, at opposite corners of the open cockpit, and a smoke generator on her transom. These guns were effective against attacking aircraft. The day before her most famous mission, PT-109 crew lashed a U.S. Army 37 mm antitank gun to the foredeck, replacing a small, 2-man life raft. Timbers used to secure the weapon to the deck later helped save their lives when used as a float. The Model Although based on the old 1963 release, I believe that this kit is from new moulds, and this certainly look the case when looking at the sprues as they are the more modern enclosed style and the dated on the inner hull sections has definitely been changed. The mouldings are nicely done, although the detail does seem to be a little soft and the plastic is quite glossy. There are no major imperfections, but there are quite a few flow marks in the deck section and only a few moulding pips. There are eleven sprues and three hull sections in a medium grey styrene, three sprues in clear styrene and a small decal sheet. The build begins with the gluing together of the two hull halves and the midships bulkhead. The small insert on the lower bow is then added, as is the stern section which includes the propeller shaft and rudder holes, plus the transom which is moulded integrally. The crew rest area is made up from six parts and glued to the underside of the deck section, along with the interior steering position. Depending on whether you want to build PT 109 with the bow mounted 37mm howitzer or not will determine which holes you will need to drill out before add the deck tot eh hull. Three cleats ate then attached to the deck and the model turn over to fit the three propeller shafts, propellers and rudders. The six mufflers and their control rods are then attached to the transom. The superstructure is then built up using individual sides and bulkheads, most of which will need the clear window parts to be added before gluing into position. The roof sections will also need holes drilling out before being glued into position. The deck above the engine compartment is then fitted with a three piece skylight, 20mm cannon guide rails and four ventilators, this assembly is then glued in place, as is the gun deck immediately aft. The upper steering position is then assembled from the sides and bulkheads to which internal detail is added such as the boats wheel, internal bulkheads, searchlight and console. The forward roof section is then added as is the steering positions windscreen and aerial mast Each torpedo tube consists of four parts and once all four tubes are assembled the can be fitted to their respective positions on the deck, either stowed, or in firing positions. Each of the twin 50 cal machine gun turrets are assembled from four parts, with additional two parts of the guide cage around the top of the each turret. The 37mm consists of seven parts and is fitted to the foredeck, while the 20mm Oerlikon is an eight piece assembly fitted to the quarterdeck. There are two three piece depth charges fitted one per side on the foredeck. While on the quarterdeck the smoke discharger and ensign staff are glued into position. Lastly, the folding mast is fitted to the main cabin roof and can be posed raised or stowed. Decals Since there is only one option with this kit, naturally there aren’t too many decals. Other than those for the compass binnacles and instrument panel, there are also the hull depth markings, ensign and PT-109s codes for either side of the bow, bridge front and the 20mm cannon pedestal aft. There are also two large decals for the stands nameplates. Conclusion It’s nice to see this kit being updated, and for the most part it looks like a nice kit that can easily be detailed to the modellers own wishes and there are already etched detail sets from Eduard to help with this. Seeing as the plastic is quite glossy i would definitely prime before painting. It would make a nice introductory maritime model for those modellers new to the genre of narrow seas boats. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit
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