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Showing results for tags 'Recon'.
Better late than never! NATO forces are being bolstered by forward deployed recon birds in W. Germany, based out of Bremgarten Air Base near Freiburg. Due to the fairly limited time, this will be a largely OoB build. At this time I will likely be building RF-4E 35+23.
Hi all, I'm back again. This time, after a unanimous vote (from Christian, whom we all know is exiled to Africa!), my next attempt at self-flagellation will be the notorious Mach 2 B-45 Tornado jet bomber in 1/72. By and large, the Mach 2 offerings have gotten a pretty bad rap -- in most cases not deserved. This is one of those kits. While not exactly a snap-together, and certainly not up to the modern pour-from-the-box-self-assembling model standard, it really isn't THAT bad. (Perhaps because my kit was bought so long ago that it was maybe a first run from the molds and now qualifies for Social Security?) In any event, we'll begin by showing the worst it has to offer. I'll not do a sprue review per se, as that has been done by others. Not many have actually assembled the kit, however. It looks like this: We now come to the first of the problem areas, the mold release pins, which are in some cases, humongous. These are marked "A" in the following picture. The items marked "B" are the sink holes on the other side of said pins, and the sink marks are in direct proportion to the size of the pins! Moving along, we encounter a few areas of excess plastic, known to us modelers as "flash". There really isn't much flash on my kit, so no worries. However, the next photo shows the real PITA as far as I am concerned -- the red arrows point to the "short shots" or missing plastic, which happens to occur on BOTH of the left-hand pieces of the pilot AND the co-pilot's seats. However, Mach 2 was kind enough to give us excess plastic in the cockpit itself, where the entire left-hand side (shown with "X's") should not even exist. The cockpit should look more like an American B-47, with a walkway from the nose entry door, and requiring a short climb up to the aforementioned seating. Please forgive the out-of-focus picture, but in-focus, it's REALLY ugly! Next, we have some classic "sink" marks, where not enough plastic filled the mold completely, leaving small "divots" -- as opposed to the short-shots, where plastic is missing entirely. Here "A" denotes the sink mark filled with CA glue, as this will be the left engine intake fairing and it will have a landing light fabricated later on. The "B" marks denote the sink marks of the right side engine intake (which does NOT have a landing light) as well as both exhaust fairing, which are simply filled with red primer putty, as they will require no reworking other than sanding. Next we have the clear parts, which are somewhat thick and not real clear. It remains to be seen whether they can be cleaned and used, or must be replaced. That accounts for most of the issues; a couple others will be addressed down the road. For now, the drill will be fill, sand, fill, sand, polish, etc. I will try hard to use little filler other than CA, because this will be a mostly NMF finish. In the areas where I must use filler, I will probably give those areas a light smear of CA glue also, to harden them up for polishing. Since every seam on this build will require sanding and polishing and re-scribing of lines, this part will not go quickly. This will not be a two-week build! Without further ado, I will show the tools that will help to tame this part of the beastly build: First, some of the sanding devices, mostly available through beauty supply outlets. You could pilfer these from your significant other, but I would suggest this only to those extremely young or those desiring only restful sleep! My favorites in this photo are the 4-grit version at the top -- as you progress through each of the four stages, you can virtually arrive at a polished canopy type finish. I also love the standing twigs, which are simply the larger items cut into 3mm widths. You can buy these at hobbyist supply, or roll your own in you have really sharp blades and a steady hand. I like them because you can get into tight spots, do minimal surrounding damage, and as they wear, simply snip off the ends with your sprue snippers and keep on keepin' on. For really tough chores (like thinning wings and vacuform models) I like the black one, which is #80 grit on one side and #100 grit on the other. For this build, I probably won't need that much muscle. Next, we have the means for restoring all those nicely scribed kit panel lines (which while building this kit, many will be destroyed), the scribing tools: At the top, and going clockwise, we have a few of the perhaps 2 dozen scribing templates, available from many suppliers. While not really necessary, I find they save a lot of time restoring vents, small panel and the like. Next we have the Dymo tape, which used to be used as a medium for old-school labeling. They have been largely replaced by newer technology, but remain invaluable for this use. You peel the protective film from the back, leaving a sticky, thickish plastic tape, which when applied to the model, gives you a nice, fairly hard edge to run the scribing device against, particularly on vertical lines on a fuselage. Each piece of tape is good for only a few "stick-ons" however, before it becomes roughed up on the edge or the sticky gets too stuck up with sanding or scribing dust. In any event, get some if you want to do any scribing, because sooner-or-later, you'll need it. I found mine on Amazon for a pretty low price, which was good, because few office supply stores in my area still carry any. Next, the scribing devices themselves. First up, a plain old embroidery needle stuck in a pin vise -- my oldest, and surely the cheapest devise. Next another scribing tip, stuck in another pin vise. This hardened tip from Mission Models, may no longer be available. (Mission Models also made the best scribing device that I ever used, a little two-sided little hatchet-shaped deal, about .005" wide, that cut a perfect square-edged slot into the plastic, that required virtually no sanding afterward. If you have one you'd like to be rid of -- I'm your man!). Lastly, a regular carbon steel tool scriber, useful if you encounter really hard plastic (which is why I no longer have the MM one described above). I also have another type, from Squadron Shop, (not pictured here) with two curvy end that are triangular in section. It is great for longer, straight lines, not so much so on curves. Also, there is a new series of scribing chisels out of Japan, but at $30 US to $60 US, I'm not certain that I'm that sincere. Next we have just simple brass shim stock, whose main advantage is that it can be trimmed to get into tight spots (also great for making cowl fins on P2V-3 Neptune models!), as is the regular old credit card, which plastic gets cut up from time to time for the cause. And lastly a plain old 6-inch steel ruler, which usually I either tape into place, or glue a piece of fine sandpaper to the back with rubber cement, so that it doesn't slide around so much. Well, enough for now. Next tie, we'll get into actually molesting plastic... Later, Ed
G’day folks. Latest off the bench for me is Tamiya’s 1/48 F-84G converted to a Royal Danish Air Force RF-84G using the MADS resin set. I wanted to build something other than a NMF Thunderjet as they are not often seen. Some brief research and I found that the Danes flew them in their regular guise as well as a reconnaissance platform. A bit more research revealed that Hi-Decal did the markings and MADS did the tank. I think the RAF temperate grey/green over PRU blue got it over the line. The MADS resin set consists of a replacement port tank in the way of a T-33 Fletcher photo recon tank and a vertical camera housing. I believe it was the French that came up with the idea of loading an oblique camera into the T-33 tank of which a few nations followed with the same idea. Located behind the nose gear bay, the vertical camera resulted in the battery being relocated to a different part of the fuselage. Photos of these aircraft have been hard to come by and for that reason some educated assumptions have been made regarding stencils and the finish of the aircraft. The colour of the emerald green is probably the most dubious part as that can be interpreted many different ways. I had a few issues with the Hi-Decal markings namely the tip tank lightning bolts which ended up being masked and painted after the fragile decal fell apart into several pieces. In summary… RF-84G Thunderjet, Reconnaissance Flight, 729th Squadron, Royal Danish Air Force; Karup AFB, spring 1957. Tamiya 1/48 F-84G - Item 61060 MADS 1/48 F-84G Thunderjet Recce Pod - Item M.Access 004 Quickboost 1/48 F-84G Ejection Seat with safety belts - Item QB 48-493 Hi-Decal 1/48 F-84G Decals - Item HDL 48017 Cutting Edge and Tamiya kit stencils Gunze acrylic and lacquer paints - (Custom PRU blue) To the pics… Cheers, Mick
Hi guys, I had a discussion with a mate at lunch today about the last time I built a Tamiya kit and I'm sad to say that it's been more than 10 years. Shock horror!!! I know.....don't worry, I've made amends by cracking out the fantabulosoriffic snap-tite (well it seems that way)1/48 Tamiya F-84G AND in non USAF markings.....not that that's a bad thing This one will be an RDAF RF-84G...you know, the ones with the Fletcher tip tanks housing the camera installation on the port wing...yeah...me neither. It took a bit of hunting around to find out information on these machines however luck has favoured the fortunate and I've got the goods I need. M.A.D.S (Model Art Decal System) has been the Fletcher camera tank; Quickboost have provided a resin seat; the Hobbycraft 1/48 T-33 kit has kindly donated the starboard tank just to make it look evenish and HiDecal have come to the rescue with decals. The scheme will be the Dark Green/dark grey over PRU blue with some flashy emerald green tip tanks. Enough waffle...we want pics. Well, here you go. Detail painting of the cockpit has started. Still a bit more work to do but you get the general idea. Decent cockpit photos of the F-84G are hard to come by. Pardon the blurry pics too...a tweak on the camera next time will fix that. The MADS tank is really well cast. Just a copy of the Hobyycraft tank with the camera face shaped on the underside of the nose. I'll cut out the recess and build a camera lens to give it some interest and then cut some acetate sheet for the housing window. Here it is installed on the port wing tip. The fit is great as it appears they've used the Tamiya wingtip in the grafting exercise similar to my attempt in the following photo. The Hobbycraft tank grafted onto the wingtip and smoothed in with some of Milliputt finest two part filler. A wee bit of clean up needed but close enough for this bloke. Speed brake bay all prettied up. I think we'll leave these two to their own devices shall we? The great thing about these Tamiya kits is with some creative painting the parts can really pop. No aftermarket needed here. Colours are Mr Color Chromate Yellow with Vallejo details and Games Workshop oil wash. And the bits that hold it all up. Thanks for stopping by and as always comments, critique and beer are welcome. Cheers Mick