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  1. Besides starting an Austrian Tunnan soon (no free building space yet), my dad starts now also an Austrian Bird Dog using the new Roden kit with Brent-Air-Decals. 22 A models and 7 E models were in service with the Austrian Airforce from 1958 to 1997. Austrian Bird Dogs http://gotech.at/l19.htm Brent-Air-Decals https://www.brent-air-decals.at/österreich-decals-militär/props/ DSC_0001 by Reinhard Spreitzhofer, auf Flickr
  2. Cessna L-19/O-1 Bird Dog (409) 1:48 Roden The Cessna Bird Dog was a military version of the Cessna 170, called the Model 305A by Cessna themselves. It was developed to a US Army requirement for a two seat observation and liaison aircraft, first flying at the end of 1949. The design featured a single engine high wing monoplane with a tail wheel configuration and long loiter time. This was the first all-metal fixed wing aircraft ordered by the US Army after aviation was split on the formation of the Air Force in 1947 under the orders of President Roosevelt. As well as the US Army, the aircraft would be operated by the US Marine Corps and the US Air Force, famously in the Forward Air Control (FAC) role in Vietnam. US Forces would lose almost 470 aircraft in the conflict in total, including some in special ops and some with native Vietnamese crew. The aircraft would also serve in many other militaries around the world including Australia, Canada, Japan, Spain, and South Vietnam to name a few. They were eventually replaced by the O-2 Skymaster, then the OV-10 Bronco, but over 3000 were built and some 300 are still on the US civil register today. The Kit This is a new tool from Roden, happily for the 1:48 modeller, and it's a long time since we've had a new tooling of the Bird Dog. It arrives in a smallish box, and inside are seven sprues of various sizes in grey styrene, plus a clear sprue, three lengths of wire, three decal sheets and the instruction booklet. First impressions are good, although the decal sheets are a little off, which we'll get into later. The details on the sprues is nice, there is a complete engine in the nose, cockpit, but no gear bay detail at all!!! You got it – there are no gear bays as the L-19 has fixed gear. Yes, I'm a bad man. The build begins with the Lycoming engine, which is constructed from a surprisingly large number of parts, and includes the piston banks, ancillary equipment, crank cases, intake box and manifold, plus the exhaust manifold, which links to a pair of mufflers and angled exit tubes. It is fitted to the firewall by four mounts, which has the instrument panel glued to the other side in anticipation of installation in the fuselage, work on which begins with the tubular-framed pilot's seat, the twin sticks, rudder pedals and aft bulkhead frame. The Bird Dog is a simple aircraft with not much inside, so once the side windows, door handles and a map bag are fitted, and the interior painted you're almost ready to glue the fuselage together after adding a decal to the instrument panel. A few holes will be needed in the fuselage beforehand, and Roden have you adding the elevators and landing gear at this stage before the fuselage is closed up. I can't think of a good reason not to, but it still feels weird. The elevators have a mounting point for two dipoles at the front, which accept the included lengths of wire, although I would check your references to assess the correct width before proceeding, and if thinner wire is more appropriate, use the kit wire as a template. As the fuselage is mated, a number of cross-braces and the rear bench seat are suspended across the cockpit, and the engine assembly is inserted against ledges on the interior, then the front and rear windscreens and the separate elevators and rudder are glued in place at an angle of your choosing. The wings are next, and the first task is to add the six small roof lights that help to make this a better observation aircraft. The panels are all individual, and there is a little sinking in the centre of some of the narrower ones, which may respond well to being sanded flat and polished back to transparency. The upper wing is full width, with two lower halves that trap the separate ailerons, with wingtip lights and a landing light recessed into the leading edge of the port wing. The flaps can be posed up or down by swapping out the actuators, after which the wing is offered up (down?) to the fuselage and glued in place along with the prominent bracing struts that fit into pits in the fuselage and wing surfaces. The cowling is provided in sections, and these fit to the front fairing, so that if you wish you can show off the work you did on the engine by leaving some panels open. The twin bladed prop fits into the hole in the front of the cowling, and then it's just a case of adding the four lifting lugs on the centre wing, a bunch of antennae and sensors on the spine, plus the last big aerial wire on the roof of the cockpit with a small styrene base that traps it in place. The Bird Dog sometimes did a little target marking using small diameter rockets that carried white phosphorous to create plumes of smoke for the attacking aircraft to home in on, a set of which are included in the kit. These are built up in pairs on a small launch rail, with cross-braces supporting the two rockets, and two pairs mounted under each wing, totalling eight in all. Markings There are three markings options out of the box, one each for the US Army and Air Force, plus a nice colourful one from the Canadian Army. The painting and decaling instructions are all done in grey scale, and it appears that the Air Force option has had its main colour marked incorrectly. The main colour is shown as A on the page, which is "Natural Steel" on the table at the front of the booklet, but having checked my references and a bunch of online photos of that serial numbered aircraft, it should instead by a light grey, which makes me wonder whether someone got their As mixed up with their Ms when they were adding the legend. You know now anyway! L-19/O-1E Bird Dog (56-2661) US Army Air Service, Alaska 1966 L-19/O-1E Bird Dog (57-6273) Forward Air Controller (FAC) at Lai Khe supporting the 3rd BDE, 1st ID, 1966-67 L-19/O-1E Bird Dog (119732) of No.10 Tactical Air Group Mobile Command, Canadian Armed Forces, early 1970s The large decal sheet contains the majority of the US decals, with the smaller one holding the Canadian option. The third small sheet is an instrument panel decal, but is slightly out of register. Overall the decals have huge expanses of carrier film that extend over multiple decals, so you would be well advised to cut each one from the sheet close to the printed area. My review sample had received a few light scrapes in transit too, which caused the black printing to shell off the paper in numerous places, which has ruined a few of the larger decals. There are "spare" Canadian and USAF markings on the main sheet, which may have been reprinted due to the offset on the Canadian roundels, and the change in gap direction of the stencil of the A in USAF. My sheet had some issues with the carrier film, which I have brought to their attention along with the colour profiles, but do check your kit, just in case. Conclusion With the exception of the issues with the decals on my copy of the kit, it's a great improvement on the ancient kit that I had in the stash until recently, which I have since given away to a friend. The detail is good, and once the discounters have gotten hold of it, the price is reasonable. I'll be using aftermarket decals for mine when I eventually build it, as there are some really interesting options out there, with many nations flying the Bird Dog. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  3. Roden 2019 programme And in 1/48th just two svastikased lawnmowers... Source: http://www.roden.eu/HTML/framemodels.htm V.P.
  4. Cessna L-19/O-1 Bird Dog "Asian Service" 1:32 Roden The Cessna Bird Dog was a military version of the Cessna 170, called the Model 305A by them. It was developed to a US Army requirement for a two seat observation and liaison aircraft. The design featured a single engine high wing monoplane with a tail wheel configuration. This was the first all metal fixed wing aircraft ordered by the US Army after aviation was split on the formation of the Air Force in 1947. As well as the US Army the aircraft would be operated by the US Marine Corps, and the US Air Force famously in the Forward Air Control role in Vietnam. US Forces would lose 469 aircraft in the conflict in total. The aircraft would also serve in many other militaries around the world including Australia, Canada, Japan, Spain, and South Vietnam to name a few. Over 3000 were built and there are still some 300 on the US civil register today. The Kit The kit arrives on 7 sprues of plastic, a clear spure, a sheets of decals, and 3 lengths of wire for the aerials (not shown). The parts rattle around in a large box, and as the clear sprue was not individually bagged one part was off the sprue and others have been marked. The parts generally are well moulded, and the surface detail is very good, especially on the control surfaces. However there is some flash evident on the clear parts. This contains the same plastic as the initial USAF boxing so a USAF / US Army aircraft can be made if the modeller sources alternative decals. Construction starts with the engine which looks to be a detailed one. The main undercarriage units are then made up. Pilots seat is made up along with its bracing struts. and the rear seat is also built up at this time. The completed engine is mounted to the engine frame and then to the firewall. To the other side of the firewall the instrument panel is added. Care will need to be taken with the engine and mounts as the tolerances with Roden kits can be tight and if not assembled correctly then they maybe be a fit issue with the cowling. The completed seat can then be attached to the cockpit floor along with other flight controls. The rear seat should probably be put in at this time though is gone AWOL in the instructions! Next up the instructions have you build the tailplanes. These have antennas on the front held on by a front cap. Even though these are wire they are probably best left unto the end of the build. The final parts of the exhausts are now built up and attached to the engine. The clear parts and doors now need to be placed into the fuselage halves along with the tail wheel. The tailplanes and landing gear are then attached to the fuselage halves. The fuselage can the be joined together placing the cockpit in and the engine. The move-able tail elevators are also added now. We then move to the main wing. The top side is one part with left and right lowers. The observation windows need to be placed into the wing at this stage. Flaps & ailerons are separate but only shown in the neural positions. The main wing is then added to the fuselage and the bracing struts are added. The engine front and cowlings can then be added. The model is finished with the main top whip antenna and a couple of blade antennas. Decals Markings are provided for 3 aircraft, they are printed in house and look to have no issues on the sheet. Japanese Self Defence Air Force, JG-1043, unknown base, 1950s South Vietnamese Air Force, April 1975, flown by MAJ Boung. Royal Thai Navy, s/n 22860 (51-16973), No 1302, 103 Sqn, RTNB U-Tapao, ca. 1982 Conclusion This looks to be a good kit in the box, however care will be needed as Roden kits do need it when putting them together. Even in 1.32 this is not a massive model and should build up to look good. Highly recomended for a Big Bird Dog. Review sample courtesy of
  5. M43 3/4 Ton 4x4 Ambulance 1:35 Roden The Dodge M43 Ambulance is the chassis from the Dodge M37 3/4 tuck which was a follow on from the WWII WC 3/4 ton trucks. The M43 had a rear patient compartments with a connecting door to the front cabin. The spare wheel carries was retained on the drivers door. There is space in the rear for 4 stretcher cases or upcto 6 seated wounded. The vehicles were phased out of US Service in the 1970s and 80s. The Kit This is a new kit from Roden in 2018 and follows on from their 2016 M37 Cargo truck. The kit arrives on 9 sprues, a clear sprue and 5 rubber tyres. Some of the parts on the sprues are for the M37 and not used. All parts are well molded with little or no flash and some nice detailing. Construction starts with the wheels. Two front, two back and the spare are built up and put to one side. The axles and gear box are then made up. The axles are then added to the main chassis along with the leaf spring suspension units, and shock absorbers. The engine is then built up and added to the chassis along with the radiator and exhaust. The front and rear bumpers are then added along with the fuel tank, running boards, gear box and transfer shafts. This complete the chassis. We then move to the cab and body. The seats, dash and driving controls are added in, and the doors are made up. The windscreen is then made up. The front mudguards are also assembled, To the rear body parts for the underside are added then the inside floor lockers are added. The cab unit is then attached to the chassis with the steering column being added. Switching back to the Ambulance body internal fixtures are added to the roof and the connecting door added to the partitioning wall. The body is then made up and the stretchers added in. The windscreen and front doors are added, followed by the main body. The bonnet (or hood) is then added as are the rear doors, All doors can be displayed open or closed. If the rear doors are open then there is a fold down step which can be used. To finish off the wheels are added along with a jerrycan & carrier Decals Markings are provided for 2 vehicles in use in Vietnam in the 1960s. One US Army in Olive Drab, and one USAF in Blue Grey. They are produced in house and have a strange texture, however this should not affect how they go on. The smaller red crosses are slightly misshapen and a couple of the circles are off centre. Conclusion This new kit from Roden should build up into a good looking model. Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  6. Is decals from Academy and Italeri as bad as often mentioned in build reviews and "in the works" or should those decals be handled in an different way than most decals? Is there something many builders miss when working with Academy, Italeri and Roden decals? What's behind those bad experiences? Cheers / André
  7. That was my 3-year-old's reaction when I showed him a picture of the Sopwith Triplane so it seemed an ideal thread title.. 🤔 I picked this up in JohnT's sale. So I thought I'd get on with it. Plenty builds of this already posted on here so I'll forgo the pics of the box and contents and all that. It's well documented that the Roden fuselage is too short for the production tripe but OK for the prototype. Ideally, John's sale came with the Novascale decals for Flt. Cmdr. R Dallas, who flew the prototype in service ("Brown Bread"). Tail plane's the wrong size and shape, I believe but I can live with that I also got these HGW belts, for a laugh, erm I mean to improve my PE/detailing skills... 😂 I've made a start whilst I was waiting for the Dove's paint to dry and all that. Here we go then... W-D
  8. Here is my Roden Camel finished in the markings of Captain D R MacLaren, the most successful Camel pilot with 54 confirmed victories all achieved on Camels. Kit went together fairly easily for a Roden kit. Brush painted with AK Interactive's WWI colours which brushed on well but required several coats for good colour coverage. I have attempted to replicate the worn and battered appearance of MacLaren's Camel F2137 photographed in October 1918, with mixed results. I am pleased with the battleship grey worn off the wooden cockpit side but less so with the worn PC10. Decals were very fragile and needed to be applied very carefully to avoid them breaking up. This is the first biplane model I have rigged, using fine smoke coloured invisible mending thread and fishing line. It proved to be much easier than I feared. The photos do show that I need to improve on the attachment points next time. AW
  9. Credited with 54 victories, Erich Lowenhardt wad the third highest scoring ace of the Great War behind only Manfred von Richthofen and Ernst Udet. After service as an officer with ski troops in the Carpathians, Lowenhardt joined the air service in 1916, initially as an observer before becoming a pilot. Lowenhardt joined Jasta 10 in March 1917 and by May of 1918 had a score in the high teens. With the arrival of the Fokker D.VII, Lowenhardt, now commanding Jasta 10 increased his score dramatically, reaching 53 by 9 August, only the second German pilot to pass the 50 mark. At that time Lowenhardt was the leading living German Ace. He had also on 8 August claimed JG1's 500th victory of the war. On 10th August 1918 suffering with a sprained ankle and ignoring advice not fly, Lowenhardt led a mixed patrol from Jastas 10 and 11. Shortly after shooting down an RAF machine for his 54th victory, Lowenhardt collided with the Fokker of Jasta 11's Ltn Alfred Wentz. Both pilots bailed out with their newly issued parachutes but tragically Lowenhardt's failed to open and he fell to his death. Oblt Erich Lowenhardt was just 21 years old. For my entry I will be building Roden's 1/72 Fokker D.VII as Lowenhardt's famous yellow fighter. The kit and some lozenge decals for the wings: Some reference material: Andrew
  10. This is my Roden AC-123K project "Black Spot" kit in 1/72. The AC-123K is often refereed to as a Gunship without a gun and was used to drop cluster bomb bomblets on traffic on the Ho Chi Min trail in Viet Name. I had great hopes for this kit, especially after the last several Italeri kits. But while I don't want to be pegged as a chronic complainer, I have to say this kit was a nightmare from start with the horrible fit and flawed instructions to end with the decals that would not stick and silvered terribly. The fit was so bad that I have to use some of my wood working clamps just to get joints to meet in close proximity. The instructions are flawed in several ways which indicates these are really for the cargo version of the C-123. There are 3 windows on each side of the nose under the canopy that are not visible on the Black Spot aircraft. While the box art does not show them the instructions have you installing them and I can not find any place the the instructions say to fill them in or cover them. There is a detailed cargo hold interior and the instructions say to pose the ramp open, but I can only find a single picture of a Black Spot aircraft with them open. There are detailed painting drawings but they are in black and white and different colors are shown with the same pixalation or just a dashed line around an area. Speaking of colors there are only reference to Vallejo paints and no FS numbers. All decals will silver to some extent, but this can usually be fixed with decal solvent and a sharp knife to make tiny holes in the silvered area for the solvent to seep into. Not these. They resisted all efforts to fix and I am somewhat embarrassed to show the pictures because of this. They must come from the same source as the early Academy decals. Luckily the silvering doesn't show up too much in the pictures. I can go on ranting, but I will probably bore you, if I haven't already, so I will just say that this kit is not for the faint of heart of the beginning builder and on to the pictures; I would love to do the AP-2H next, but I still haven't found a set of the Blackbird conversion. So for something completely different I will be working on the Muroc Models M2-F1 lifting body. Enjoy
  11. As part of my current WW1 kick I have acquired a number of Roden and Toko 1/72 kits (Camel 2F1, Albatros D.III s153, various Sopwith 1 1/2 Strutters). The marking choices are interesting but the transfers themselves look very thin. I have seen a number of recent threads that suggest that Roden transfers in particular are as good as unusable. Especially with my glacial rate of construction, I do not want to bring a kit to near-completion only to discover the transfers don't work. The problem is all the more acute given the surprising shortage of aftermarket transfers for mainstream British WW1 subjects. So: - Can Roden and Toko transfers ever be used successfully? - Are there any tips on how to improve the chances of success? (Overpaint with Superscale liquid transfer film? Particular softening/setting solutions to be used/avoided?) - How are they for colour density? (Some of mine will be applied to a scarlet airframe.) Or do I have to stick them back in the stash until hell freezes over and I can source some decent aftermarket transfers?
  12. When I think about Great War, my second thought is "artillery". Indeed Great War saw a birth of tanks, combat aircraft or submarines, or last days of cavalry, to name a few, but artillery reached a peak of importance exactly that time. So I have already hands full of projects in "Brits abroad", but I couldn't miss a opportunity here. I have pick up a Roden kit in 1/72. With closer look it have a typical Roden quality - some flashes here and there, some sink holes, and brittle plastic, which isn't a easiest to work with. I think quality even dropped a little in comparison to older kits like Nieuport's. Still, company found a nice niche, maybe they had stopped making a new WWI aircraft in 1/72 scale, but instead went after land vehicles, and contribute something more than just a some famous tanks. I have already started working on limber.
  13. Holt 75 Artillery Tractor Roden 1:35 With the onset of large-scale hostilities in early 1915, the leadership of the British Army understood very well that the transportation of heavy weapons such as heavy artillery, by horses wearing harnesses, was no longer an efficient method, especially in the off-road conditions of autumn and winter. In view of this, it was decided to limit horse drawn transportation only for light artillery, and to procure tractors, already in use for agricultural purposes before the start of the war, for the movement of heavy weapons. Soon after the turn of the century, American inventor Benjamin Holt built an agricultural machine with a gasoline internal combustion engine and a chassis running on crawler tracks, which proved to be very successful in design, and was copied not only in the United States, but also in England and France, as well as in some other countries. The vehicle was classified as a "tractor" and was named the Holt 75. Even before the start of the First World, these machines were already being used extensively in agriculture, however, not as yet for any military purposes. After successful tests in quarry sites, where in contrast to the horses the Holt 75 easily towed not only the 6-inch but also the super-heavy 9-inch guns, it was decided to acquire them for the needs of the Royal Artillery Corps immediately. Of course, the speed of the tractor was very low - it could tow a gun at only 2 miles per hour, but even this performance figure outweighed the significant losses of military animals due to their exhaustion in delivery of the guns, especially in off-road conditions. Simultaneously with the UK, France also became interested in the military use of tractors, suffering likewise from the near-impossibility of pulling heavy weapons solely with horses. In late 1916, about 800 tractors were ordered for the transportation of heavy guns. After the United States' entry into the First World War in 1918, the American Expeditionary Force in Europe also used tractors of this type extensively. In total these machines as used by the allies, amounted to almost 2,000 units by the end of the war, of which 445 were built under license in the UK. Their work was not glamorous, in contrast to the tanks for instance, used for the first time during the war; but their role as a new component in the military machine, namely, the artillery tractor, was also very important, and in the following years this type of military equipment became ubiquitous, widespread even today. The Model The kit comes in a very attractive, full colour box with a representation of the vehicle in use. The kit is contained on 12 sprues of light grey styrene; there is also a small decal sheet. Although still very much having the look of a short run kit all the parts are very nicely moulded, with some small areas of flash but no other imperfections and only a few moulding pips. The parts breakdown is pretty standard, and the instruction sheet nice and clear to read. This is the first Roden armour kit I’ve actually had a close look at, and for me the detail is perhaps a little soft, again, looking like a short run kit. That said the detail is there, but may need picking out better with a wash or careful painting. Construction begins with what are effectively the six return rollers and their axle frames, three per side, on a common transverse frame. Then there is what I can only describe as a coal bunker, a circular storage bin with a small hatch, perhaps harking back to the steam age. The ten road wheels are then assembled, each from two halves. The road wheels are then sandwiched between to skid like frames which are then fitted with a top plate and four springs. The return roller frame is then glued on top with two cross beams fitted underneath. The front mounted wheel is then assembled from thirteen parts and put to one side to dry. The main chassis consists of two longitudinal rails four cross-members and the tow piece circular mounting ring for the front wheel. The wheel assembly is the fitted into place, as is the road wheel/return roller assembly. The rear sprocket axles are glued into place along with the separate mid axle which is fitted into a large semi-circular cover on the underside of the rear chassis. The towing plates are fitted to the rear chassis cross-member, while the sprockets, with track tensioners are also glued into place. The road wheel assemblies are fitted with adjustable bottle jacks and the front wheel gear is fitted with a corresponding steering gear unit. The “coal bunker” is fitted with a number of longitudinal, vertical and lateral panels, to create the rear crew section of the vehicle. Before moving on further with the upper works, the engine needs to be built, this is a delightful little model in itself, with the main block and barrels in two halves, separate cylinder heads, oil pipes, starter motor, auxiliary fan belts and fans, ignition rails and valve stems, a battery, flywheel and throttle. The oil tank is then assembled from five parts and then glued onto the left hand side of the of the engine mounting plate, which is another six parts. The track guards are next to assembled, each from five parts, the engine is then fitted onto its mounting. The five piece idler wheels, which include the axles and tensioners are fitted and the tracks fitted. The track link, although of individual type are nice and easy to build. They are held on to the sprue by two gates each, but these are easy to clean up, there is also a bit of flash on each link, but nothing to trouble even the most novice modeller. The links themselves just clip together, a bit like the Takom WWI tank kits, but these look a little more fragile. If you have any spare links from the Takom kits you may want to use them instead as they are virtually the same type. The main sub-assemblies are now brought together; these include the main chassis, engine, “coal bunker”, and track guards. The flywheel cover/footplate is then glued into position, as is the gearbox cover. On the underside the main control linkages and a large lateral plate, just aft of the front wheel are fitted, whilst topside, the four piece fuel tank, gear stick and linkage are glued into place. The roof assembly is then constructed with inner and outer roof sections, five piece front supports and three piece rear support beams are added and the assembly put to one side. The long steering column is attached to the front wheel gear via two separate gears, then the steering wheel attached, followed but the rear steering column support, drivers seat support, seat and a myriad of other links and levers. The engine exhaust manifold and stack is attached and the roof assembly slid over it and glued into place. Finally the two piece radiator is fitted, along with its two support brackets pkus upper and lower hoses. Decals The small decal sheet provides decals for two different tractors, with various markings for around the vehicle. The decals have been printed by Roden themselves and appear to be very well printed, with good opacity, which is nice as there are all white and will need it when used on the two colour schemes on the paint guide. Holt 75 Tractor of an unknown artillery unit, US Expeditionary Forces in Europe 1918, in overall Olive Brown. Hot 75 Tractor of an unknown artillery unit of the British Army Western Front 1917, in overall Royal Hussars Green(?) Conclusion It’s great to see a rather unusual bit of kit from WWI and very welcome it is too. Whilst it is certainly not for the absolute beginner, it should certainly be a fairly relaxing build for the average modeller. While it it looks like a short run kit, with some of the challenges this may bring, it will look great next to other WWI releases and with the forthcoming BL 8-inch Howitzer Mk VI from Roden, it will make a nice vignette or diorama piece too. Review sample courtesy of UK Distributors for
  14. Taken from http://www.roden.eu/HTML/models1.htm This is a must for me!
  15. The RAF Armoured Car Companies were part of Britain's Royal Air Force (RAF) based in Iraq, Palestine and Transjordan. They were formed to operate with aircraft squadrons to suppress insurrection and maintain peace in the area in the aftermath of World War I. A large and expensive army was required to maintain peace in Mesopotamia after the defeat of the Ottoman Empire by the British in the Mesopotamian campaign of World War I. At the Cairo Conference (1921) it was agreed by Chief of the Air Staff Lord Trenchard and Secretary of State for the Colonies Winston Churchill that the Royal Air Force would take over control from the British Army. It was considered the security of the newly created country of Iraq could be achieved by aircraft squadrons supported by RAF armoured cars and a small number of ground forces. In the winter of 1921/1922 airmen and officers of the RAF were assembled at RAF Heliopolis on the outskirts of Cairo in Egypt to train and form the nucleus of the RAF Armoured Car Companies. On 19 December 1921, No.1 Armoured Car Company RAF (1 ACC) was formally established at Heliopolis and then, having become operational, moved to Palestine in May 1922. They were disbanded there on 1 December 1923 with elements being absorbed into No.2 Armoured Car Company RAF (2 ACC).[1] On 7 April 1922 the remaining airmen under training at RAF Heliopolis were formed into 2 ACC and a month later proceeded to Palestine & Transjordan.[2] In May 1922 airmen and officers assembled at RAF Manston in Kent, England, to train as armoured car crew for service in Mesopotamia (Iraq).[3] On 14 September 1922 they set sail on the first Royal Air Force troopship from Southampton with other RAF personnel bound for Iraq.[4] In Iraq, No.3 Armoured Car Company RAF (3 ACC) was based at Basrah operating in Southern Iraq, No.5 Armoured Car Company RAF (5 ACC) at Mosul with No.4 Armoured Car Company RAF (4 ACC), No.6 Armoured Car Company RAF (6 ACC) and a headquarters in Baghdad. Armoured car lines were created at RAF Hinaidi Cantonment. In 1924 Numbers 3 and 4 Companies were combined. In April 1927 Numbers 4, 5 & 6 Companies were disbanded with the formation of the armoured car wing at RAF Hinaidi Cantonment composed of 8 sections of armoured cars. Four sections were based at Hinaidi, one at Basrah, two at Kirkuk and one at Mosul. In April 1930 the Armoured Car Wing was disbanded and reconstituted as Number 1 Armoured Car Company RAF with headquarters, workshops and two sections based at RAF Hinaidi Cantonment, one section based at RAF Basrahand one at RAF Mosul.[1][5] In 1937 1 ACC moved from the RAF Hinaidi Cantonment to a new base at RAF Dhibban (renamed RAF Habbaniya on 1 May 1938), where it remained based until disbandment and incorporation into the RAF Regiment, on 3 October 1946. In Palestine and Transjordan, 2 ACC remained active until disbandment and incorporation into the RAF Regiment, on 3 October 1946. Above taken from Wikipedia. My my own personal link to this build is slightly tenuous, but stick with me. Every year I had my annual visit to the Rockapes for CCS training, basically first aid, shooting, NBC and the gas chamber sorry respirator test facility. And I spent a delightful time in Iraq at Basra airfield. Oh and on each Rock Squadron there will be at least one MTD to provide driver fams/ training on the vehicles. That should cover it This is the kit I will build
  16. Afternoon folk's,I did say in Chat that I wanted a bi-plane to make up the trio to give me three main stages of the RAF's development so looked out for a WW1 subject then remembered that I'd often eyed up Roden's Gladiator when I discovered it includes marking's for a 607 (County of Durham) Sqn aircraft so it fit's in nicely with that short period between the service of the Gladiator/Spitfire and Meteor really short of ten year's that transformed the RAF in term's of capability,just laying a marker for now as Iwon't start till the other's are progressed enough,for now here's a review. https://modelingmadness.com/review/allies/gb/cleaverglad.htm
  17. The Gloster Gauntlet was the RAF's last open cockpit figter. This is Aeroclub's 1/48th Gloster Gauntlet offering, I believe that they had a 1/72nd version too. The box Parts I haven't tested them, but the decals look to be in good shape. The decals are for aircraft from 46 Sqn or from 74 Sqn. I haven't made a final decision on which I'll build yet: the 46 Sqn aircraft had squadron markings on the top wing, while the option is present in the kit for 74 Sqn wing markings, there is a question whether they got around to painting them. AM stuff The seat belts and instruments are left over from earlier projects, while the Vector engine was bought to replace the kit's white metal parts.
  18. I bought one of these recently. It's a nice little kit: Vaux2 by John Walker, on Flickr Vaux1 by John Walker, on Flickr Vaux3 by John Walker, on Flickr Vaux4 by John Walker, on Flickr Vaux6 by John Walker, on Flickr Vaux5 by John Walker, on Flickr Very neat indeed. I do wonder if Battleship Grey might be a more common colour for WW1 ambulances than khaki? I'll also have to think about how to display the interior, as the kit is designed to be built buttoned up. John
  19. My contribution is hopefully going to be the Roden Britannia in the livery of Donaldson International, an Anglo-Scottish charter airline which operated a clutch of second-hand Britannias between 1967 and 1972. Although I’ve never built the kit before, several Britmodellers have posted beautiful Roden Britannias in RFI giving me a lot to live up to. The Boscombe Down machine also featured in the Made in Britain GB although I’m not sure if that model was ever finished. Here’s the raw material …. http://SAM_2014 by David Griffiths, on Flickr http://SAM_2015 by David Griffiths, on Flickr http://SAM_2016 by David Griffiths, on Flickr For reference I’ll mainly be using “The Whispering Giant” by Frank McKim, “Classic British Propliners” in the Aviation Archive series and “Bristol Britannia” Issue No.4 in the Airlines and Airliners series. For older aircraft books are sometimes better than the internet although the Britannia is pretty well documented on the net and Britmodeller has an excellent walkaround featuring G-AOVT and “XM497” which I believe is really G-AOVF, not that it matters. I won’t actually start the build until the middle of next week since I’m heading off to Aberdeen for a few days and I won’t be home until Tuesday. See you then. Dave G
  20. I have just finished this one, build of box, rigging done by strech sprue. Cheers Jes
  21. Roden's 1/144 C-119 'Flying Boxcar'. I struggled a bit with this one, the plastic was pebbly and grainy on many parts and the overall fit wasn't great (though that could be down to user error). I added some detail to the flight deck but it's not visible at all through the tiny nose windows. The final finish was Alclad – the Humbrol tinlet is just there for scale.
  22. Hello all! A recent post in 72nd reminded me that I had committed the very same plane but in 1/48th! here are the pictures and yes I have used the shadow shading type of paint! Cheers. DSC_0001 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0002 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0003 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0004 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0005 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0006 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0007 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0008 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0009 by jean Barby, sur Flickr DSC_0010 by jean Barby, sur Flickr
  23. Source: https://www.facebook.com/freightdogmodels/photos/a.238637406163951.82458.119466081414418/1877432185617790/?type=3&theater V.P.
  24. Hello everyone This is my new 1/32 WWI project : a Siemens Schuckert DIII. I've been waiting for a Wingnut wonder but since they probably won’t make it, I’ll deal with the Roden one.
  25. Many are started, few are finished. Here is one of the lucky ones. The Roden Rolls Royce Armored Car The fit was challenging to say the least. The front fenders were shortened so the ramps under the running boards would fit. 4 pieces of plastic were stacked, drilled and cut to make the plates on the radiator doors. The drivers window was opened. Transmission sump, starter, and generator were made of styrene rod and strip. The bonnet was opened,the side panels were scored at the seam and snapped cleanly. Braces for the front and the operating lever for the radiator doors were styrene angle strip, rod, and sheet. More styrene, battery box, rivet strips, and pistol port levers Added operating rod for front visor,the instrument panel was drilled and a styrene sheet painted black and scratched with a blade to simulate gauges was glued behind. Lewis Mg was drilled out. A pair of handles were added to the Vickers Mg. Every part needed to be cut,filed,sanded,filled or shimmed to fit, not an easy build but a satisfying one. The fact that I finished one is icing on the cake. Recommended for masochists. Garry c
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