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  1. The last bits glued on and the last decals applied an hour before the end of 2023, so I'm calling the Revell 1:25 Foose Custom Cadillac Eldorado done. An interesting build (with several roof repairs!). My first real use of 2K clear gloss coat (which I'm still not convinced about, due to it looking like clear syrup covering the model due to it's thickness). But overall a good build, apart from Revel quality such as a slightly twisted chassis. But at least it's now done and dusted 🙂 IMG_6863-web by Brian Innes, on Flickr IMG_6872-web by Brian Innes, on Flickr IMG_6873-web by Brian Innes, on Flickr IMG_6875-web by Brian Innes, on Flickr IMG_6880-web by Brian Innes, on Flickr IMG_6883-web by Brian Innes, on Flickr IMG_6888-web by Brian Innes, on Flickr IMG_6889-web by Brian Innes, on Flickr IMG_6890-web by Brian Innes, on Flickr
  2. This is my last for 2023, finished last week. Originally started in 2013 (😮) and picked up (and put down) over the years, I finally got it done thanks to a Shelf-of-Doom group build run during the Christmas holidays. The kit is the pre-painted Revell 1/29 Easy Kit with a few mods - I drilled out and enlarged the cockpit clear parts as they're too narrow out-of-box. The right side airbrake was opened up and detailed while the Gunner got his head turned for some movement and both crew repainted. Added some bolt details here & there. The pre-painted kit was repainted and weathered with pastels, Maskol chipping and finished with a Satin cote. Revell_Snowspeeder_9 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_EasyKit_Snowspeeder_6 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_EasyKit_Snowspeeder_11 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_EasyKit_Snowspeeder_13 by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Thanks for looking and happy new year! Cheers, Dermot
  3. Airbus A400M Atlas RAF (03822) 1:72 Carrera Revell The A400M is a large, turboprop powered aircraft designed by Airbus Military to fulfil the future military transport requirements of the air forces of Belgium, France, Germany, Luxemburg, Malaysia, Spain, Turkey and the UK. Following the first flight of the A400M in December 2009, Airbus planning delivery of the first production aircraft in 2013, which they managed to achieve, to the French Air Force in August of that year. Further deliveries have been made to other customers since, and the RAF initially ordering 25, then reducing that to ‘at least’ 22, whatever that means. A further order later in the 2020s is expected, but with the fickleness of governments worldwide, who knows? In terms of capability, the A400M is designed to fill a gap between the tactical capabilities of the venerable C-130 and the strategic lift abilities of the C-17. When parked up next to a Herc, it dwarfs it, and you realise what a large aircraft it is, but equally it is dwarfed to a lesser degree by the Globemaster III. It will eventually replace the Herc when their airframes time-expire with many operators, and it offers a substantial upgrade to capacity over its predecessors. Powered by four huge and highly efficient Europrop International TP400 turbo-prop engines, each developing 11,000 shaft horsepower and delivering it to an 8-bladed prop, the A400M is capable of cruising at 37,000 feet at a speed of up to Mach 0.72, cruising at a shade under 500mph with a range of around 2,100 miles when fully loaded, or 5,400 miles unladen as a ferry flight. The A400M is capable of carrying up to 37 tonnes of cargo or 116 passengers, or up to 66 medical cases on stretchers plus their attendant medical staff. The Atlas has been in service now since the end of 2014, and although there have been some issues with the type, we often see them flying over Britmodeller Head Quarters at fairly low-level, which is quite an impressive sight to see and hear. The RAF airframes have been involved in a number of disaster relief efforts, and have also been deployed on combat missions, most recently evacuating refugees from Kabul during the hand-over of Afghanistan back to the Taliban in 2021. The Kit This monster of a kit was first released toward the end of 2011, and this reboxing represents an in-service machine in RAF and Spanish service, dedicated to taking up much of your display space in your cabinet at its earliest convenience. Once complete, it measures almost 65cm nose to tail, and 69cm from wingtip to wingtip, which gives an indication of its true size. The kit arrives in a large top opening box, and inside are fourteen sprues in grey styrene, and some of these are almost too large for my 60cm3 photo booth. There is also a (comparatively) small clear sprue, a large decal sheet, and the instruction booklet that has colour throughout and profiles at the rear to help with painting and decaling. Detail is good, but due to the size of the thing, it can seem a little spread out to some, but as you will see, there’s a lot to it. Construction begins with a choice whether to have the rear ramp deployed so viewers can see the inside that is provided by the designers. If you wish to open it up, you need to carefully cut the outer door and the cargo floor into two sections before you start on the cockpit, which is the first aspect to need glue. This process starts with adding the two bulkheads to the front of the floor, which include a set of steps that lead to and from the cockpit. The cockpit floor has the side and centre consoles moulded-in, plus the three bases for the crew seats, which are each a single part, joined by another one that is fitted on its own base in a nook at the level of the cargo floor. The instrument panel and its coaming are fixed into a groove across the centre console, and there are a total of six decals for the consoles and panel, all of which are on a clear background so there’s no paint matching needed. The rear of the cockpit floor has two more bulkheads laid on grooves in the floor, which creates the bedroom where two of the crew can sleep during longer journeys. Sadly, very little of this room will be seen unless you have sharp eyes and a torch. The completed interior is then encased in the inner skin, which has the expansive ribbing in the rear, and a set of folded-up seats moulded into each side. The outer fuselage halves have small side windows inserted into the apertures from within, and the nose area is painted, then the nose gear bay is made up from a C-shaped roof, and two side panels to get detail on all surfaces. It is placed into the starboard nose, and at the rear either the aft part of the cargo door, or the full uncut part is inserted for open or closed doors, respectively. With that done, you can close up the fuselage, placing 80g of nose weight in front of the nose gear bay before you commence the gluing. To avoid narrowing the cargo area within the fuselage, the landing gear is housed in large external sponsons that are made from separate parts once the upper sections of the landing gear legs have been emplaced, totalling three per side. Bulkheads are inserted after putting the top section of the sponson into position, with another smaller one near the rear. The lower surface has a large rectangular hole for the gear, and another pair of tiny windows in each one at the rear, then they close in the bay and complete the sponsons, leaving the visible part of the gear until later in the build. For a change, the upper wing is full-span, and has the lower halves glued in place, adding two lights at each tip, then four flap fairings under each wing before it is joined to the fuselage and glued in place at the same time as the canopy, which also includes the are above it to make hiding the seam easier, and is overall a much better method than trying to fix individual panes in place. The tail of the beast is a peculiar shape, the fin appearing to be wider at the top, where you will find the elevators. Each of these three sub-assemblies are two parts each, and are joined to the fuselage on a long peg, taking care to get everything aligned tidily in order to keep your pedantic friends from having a dig. There are four engines to build up next, and each one has an identical internal representation of the turbo-prop motor, which includes front and rear surfaces of the engine with a long trunk, and a tapering intake added to the top. These are then installed in four unique pairs of external cowlings, that are given different numbers to assist you in putting them in the right slots on the wing. The front of each engine has an identical insert that contains the intake under the prop, and a bobbin onto which the prop will be added later, taking care not to inadvertently glue it in place. Three forward-raked gear legs are made from two halves for each side, with a two-part axle inserted perpendicularly at the lower end to receive a two-part tyre on each side, with a scrap diagram showing how they attach to the U-shaped uppers that were glued into the sponsons earlier. The nose gear strut is squat and also has two wheels, plus a separate scissor-link and retraction strut, a transparent diagram showing where they mount within the bay. Many wheels require many doors, beginning with the long set that close over the main gear bays. For in-flight, they are moulded into a single part per side with an engraved line down the centre, which you should use to cut them in half for the gear-down option. The same method is used for the nose gear bay, cutting them in half for the wheels-down option. There are a lot of blade and rail antennae dotted around the underside, and more around the hump over the wings, with a clear flasher and an exhaust for the APU included. The crew door on the side can be posed open by adding stairs and a handrail to the door and gluing it by the long hinges, or you can cut those off and close the door. For the cargo bay door, the closed version is already finished, but if you cut the floor and outer skin into two parts, you now join those together to complete the ramp, which is fixed into slots in the sides of the aperture, and is held in place by a pair of struts, plus another that drops down onto the ground to help keep her straight and level during loading. A few more small parts are added just in front of the gear sponsons, and two strakes are placed under the tip of the tail, plus a two-part refuelling probe over the cockpit. The last task is to make up the 8-bladed props, and again you need four, which is no surprise, but you also have a choice of feathered blades with their leading edge following the line of flight to minimise aerodynamic resistance. Both types of blade units are moulded as one part, and have small overflow nubbins and a tiny bit of flash to tidy up, then they are each trapped between the front and rear of the rounded spinner. The blades are handed, so take care to use the instructions to help you put them where they should be, and if you have been careful with the glue, they should be able to spin once glued to the bobbins in the front of the nacelles. Markings There are two decal options included on the sheet, plus a template for the walkway that runs along the majority of the top of the fuselage, making sure that the crew exiting one of the two top doors don’t wander over delicate parts of the airframe. You can either cut it from the sheet and use it carefully as is, or you can make another replica from tape. Whichever you feel will work best. From the box you can build one of the following: ZM406 ‘100 Year No.70 Squadron’, RAF Brize Norton, 2016 TK.23-02, Ala 31, Spanish Air Force, base Aérea de Zaragoza, 2022 Additional diagrams are provided for each of the engine nacelles from the sides and underneath, plus the props, each blade of which has the yellow tips and stencils front and back on each blade, although you will have to paint the grey de-icing boots in the leading edges yourself. I’d suggest grey decal strip from Fantasy Printshop if you don’t already have a candidate of your own. There are a lot of decals, as is common with many modern aircraft, so it won’t be a 5-minute job, so take your time and work methodically to get them all in the correct place. Decals are by Zanchetti, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion A welcome re-release of this huge aircraft now that suitable time has elapsed and the type has been out in the wild and had time to get used. It’s a nice kit, and if you’re interested, the only real question will be ‘do I have the space?’, but when has that ever stopped us? Highly recommended. Carrera Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  4. Seasoned green things Britmodellers 🌟 I recently finished this Revell bubbletop Thunderbolt, Hamilton prop and rocket tubes came from an Academy Razorback. Thanks for watching! Luka
  5. I just have to have a go at this blue camouflage! Sure, it has been done loads of times but it will certainly brighten up my display cabinet. Quite a bit of flash from what I am used to these days. The original mould is from 1999 and I managed to pick it up for £10 so I guess I can’t really complain. I also found this in the depths of the loft. I must have brought this in the early 80’s. Not sure I am brave enough to attempt it though. I am a bit behind on my GB’s so I might not be able to start this for a couple of weeks, time will tell. George
  6. Hi all. I've finished this last week and it's taken me a couple of months slow time. It's out of the box bar the data pod on the wing tip. There is no more to do to the kit, but I am going to put a pilot in it when I get one. I've chosen to model it engines running, hence the aux doors open and as intended from 1979. It's a simple kit enough and a design of its day. There's not much out there if you chose to detail it up. Kit decals were fine but I had a torrid time with the gloss varnish (W&N) I use. Perhaps it's going off. I glossed the model and putting the decals on, once dry it was obvious there was silvering. I've done the usual remedies which worked to a point. However we lost our 2nd dog within 12 weeks of the 1st, to cancer again so my heart wasn't really in it. This kit must be my nemesis as I've tried to build one twice before and it beaten me. Anyway it's done and never again. Thanks for looking Steve.
  7. Back in 2014, I did the Boultbee Spitfire Introduction course at Goodwood. The course involved 70 minutes in a Chipmunk, followed by 40 minutes in a Harvard and a Spitfire Tr.9. The Harvard was this one: I've managed to do two models of the aircraft I flew in so far and this is the second of them. WIP is here: 1/48 SNJ Texan - Work in Progress - Aircraft - Britmodeller.com One last one with the last aircraft in the training continuum: I probably should've picked out the unpainted screws in the panels but time's against me. I needed to finish this by the end of the week as everything's going into store for an extended period after Christmas while we move to the Netherlands for a year or so. This classic Revell/Monogram kit was added to with Eduard P-51D wheels (most warbird T-6s use the Mustang wheels as they have disc brakes and anti-shimmy tailwheel tyres), Metallic Details CW-22B propeller (they're both Hamilton-Standard 2D30 props), Barracuda Studios spade grip in the front cockpit, Eduard details set (for the Occidental kit) that I used bits and pieces from and Microscale decals. Each letter and number is separate, so took a bit of mucking about! The decals on the engine cowl are from a 1/72 USAF C-130 that I had in the decals stash. None of the decals are the correct size but all are close. I made the antenna on the spine from a piece of metal rod and drilled out the pitot tube, added the ADF antenna on the belly from a modified Mirage III part and cut the elevators to show them drooped as they lock in that position on the ground. Unfortunately, the lovely artists' chalk white exhaust weathering I did on the port side disappeared with the Future clear coats; a phenomenon I experienced with the Lancaster, too despite the matt coat over them. I might need to use a different technique in future where white is used (no pun intended!) I didn't pick up until I was decalling that this particular T-6 doesn't use the standard tail nav lights on the vertical stabiliser and instead has a single one on the rudder. I wasn't about to go back and do it again! Enjoy! The Chipmunk still to come is the Heritage Models version I hunted down about a year before Airfix release their excellent version. Oh, well.
  8. Sometimes I cheat on my Luftwaffe planes with USN a/c, although, an F4F was actually my first ever 1/48 scale kit. Last effort: the Revell Dauntless. Besides my fascination with carrier aviation, I also wanted to use this kit to try out weathering with oil paints. It came out, well, let's say allright - with much room for improvement. and it goes nicely with my collection so far, especially on the flight deck (and YES I am aware that the flight deck is Japanese, but I couldn't get my hands on the US version ) As always, thanks for looking Cheers here's my collection from the "dark" side https://photos.app.goo.gl/od4agvy1tebuSm7L8
  9. Consolidated B-24D Liberator (03831) 1:48 Carrera Revell Consolidated's Liberator always seems to have flown in the shadow of the more popular B-17 Fortress in the media's eye even thought there were more of them, and in some aspects it was inferior, with its Davis Wing design offering poor low-speed handling and a lower maximum ceiling, but it saw more than its fair share of action in almost every theatre of WWII, both in US use and in the hands of the RAF. It has a specification written around its main design traits, and had a long wingspan, twin bomb bays and four super-charged engines to provide motive power. It was unusual in having a high wing placement, tricycle undercarriage, and tamboured bomb-bay doors that retracted up the side of the fuselage, and was fitted with a fully glazed nose cone with .30cal machine guns for protection from head-on attacks, which proved unsuitable for the task of defence. This was later updated to a turret fitted with .50cal guns with a glazed lower for the bomb aimer's position that was the H variant, but many of the earlier D models were still in use concurrently, even with the later J models. Taking a leaf from the B-17's defensive armament book it could be fitted with up to 10 .50cal M2 Browning machine guns, with the layout changing during production changes, when various options were found to be unsatisfactory, such as the poorly defended nose, offsetting the waist guns to give the crew more room, and the underside guns, which were eventually replaced with a Sperry ball turret that could be retracted into the fuselage to reduce drag, and must have been a relief for the crew if they had to make a belly landing. The name "Liberator" was coined by the British, as they were early adopters of the type after the fall of France, serving with Coastal Command, and later with the RAF after the fuselage had been lengthened, the nickname soon spreading to other operators. In US Service the Liberator flew alongside the B-17, and later superseded it when the shorter range of the B-17 began to be an issue, with the Ploiesti raid being one of the most notable operations that featured the B-24, which suffered heavy losses due to the low-level nature of the attack on such a heavily defended installaion. After the J standardised the nose turret, the N was intended to be a major upgrade that incorporated a standard single tail fin to improve handling. Due to the end of the war this was cancelled, although the tail was still seen in the PB4Y-2 Privateer operated by the US Navy until long after WWII. After the huge success of the B-29 and the dawning of the jet age, the Liberator was drawn down with unseemly haste at the end of the war, with only the Privateer soldiering on. A civilian airliner was prototyped as a potential offshoot, but that didn't proceed due to the same issues. The Kit This is a reboxing of the original Monogram kit of the type that has been around since the 70s, at which time it was the pinnacle of injection moulding technology, and must have been quite an impressive kit at the time. To be fair, time has been incredibly kind to the moulds, particularly as some would have you believe they’ve been at the bottom of the sea at some point! The rumours we hear on the internet, eh? It has raised panel lines, includes a set of figures and a ground-handling tractor that would probably be considered gimmicks by today’s cynical modeller. Those aspects aside, the detail is still pretty good for the age, and is a firm basis on which to improve if you’re interested in going the extra mile. It’s a big model too, with the Davis wing making for a substantial wingspan of almost 70cm. Construction begins with the broad cockpit, which seats two pilots abreast on substantially framed seats, with steering yokes inserted into the wide instrument panel after applying the included decal for the instrument dials. The seats have belts moulded-in, and the bomb aimer’s stool and sight is added to the lower forward section, before the fuselage halves are prepared with paint and side windows that are applied from inside. There is plenty of ribbing moulded into the interior, plus some other details and oxygen hoses for good measure, but the prominent yellow oxygen tanks are absent from the kit. The fuselage halves are further detailed with bomb bay ladders that are hung from the two bays and have a stick of two-part bombs attached to the rungs. The waist gun windows can be posed open or closed by making them up with their central windows, and positioning them swung up into the roof for the open option. The two gunner positions are situated in a section of floor with lower sidewalls moulded-in, and have the mounts for the .50cals glued into position on each side, trapping the pintle-mounts in place so that the gun can be moved after completion. There is a moulded-in texture to the floor in this section too, and it is inserted into the starboard fuselage half, then the nose is detailed with equipment add-ons and the nose bay doors, which I’m sure were changed to open outward at some point, I just can’t remember when. The cockpit and a rear bulkhead are fitted into the front of the starboard fuselage, as is the nose wheel on its short strut, attached to a short bulkhead by a V-shaped brace. A small mudguard is applied over the top before it is glued under the cockpit floor, and another bulkhead is fixed at the back of the bomb bay to permit closure of the fuselage, which will need lots of tape, no doubt. The four Pratt & Whitney R-1830-35 Twin Wasp engines are each depicted by a single insert that fits inside the nacelles with a drive-shaft slipped through the centre, trapping them in position by closing up each wing and adding the cowling to the front. The gear bays are moulded into the lower wing halves, and do a decent job of depicting the interior, and shouldn’t need any additional work other than painting, unless you’re a detail hound. The completed wings are slotted through the fuselage to interlink in a strong bond, thanks to the long tabs at the roots that project through the fuselage and into corresponding holes in the opposite wing root. The three-bladed props are each a single part and glue straight onto the shafts at the centre of the engine inserts, but are probably best left off until later. The prominent H-tail with big rounded rudders is made up from upper and lower halves that accept a two-part rudder at each end, the flying surfaces having a fabric texture engraved into the surface, which although a little over-scale should reduce under a few coats of paint. It is glued to the rear of the fuselage over the rear turret, which is made from two clear halves that trap a twin Browning mount between them that rotates on a circular platform once installed. Moving forward, you have a choice of modelling the bomb bay doors in the closed position by using one set of parts, or rolled up the side of the fuselage using another set. Behind the bay is an insert that covers the location of the belly turret, which was often either absent or retracted on many Liberators. Behind that is a bumper to protect the tail against over-exuberant take-offs, and behind that is a crew access hatch that can be posed closed by inserting the door, or open with the access ladder and cutting off the tabs that hold the door flush with the rest of the fuselage. Going back to the wings, you have a choice of building your model gear up or down, each option starting by making up two sets of gear from four parts each, comprising the strut, captive bay door and two-part wheel with flat-spot moulded in. The instructions show the flat-spot uppermost for the retracted option, so that it will be hidden by the bay door, but fails to note that for the gear down option, the flat-spots should be inverted. Each leg is supported by a retraction jack, giving the leg three points of contact within the bay. The canopy is built from three parts, adding bulged side windows and gluing the finished assembly over the cockpit with a clear astrodome in front over the bomb-aimer’s position. Behind the cockpit is an upper turret that traps the twin guns between the top and bottom of the turret ring before putting the clear dome over it and snapping it into position. Either side of the nose is a whisker-like probe and four Browning machine guns are pushed, one through the side of the nose and three through the clear bomb-aimer’s window before it is glued in place, with each of the waist gunners also getting a Browning for their pintle-mounts. The last parts of the model are a pair of probes that sit on the wing behind the inner engine nacelles, a faired D/F loop and an aerial just behind it, which has two wires (from your own stock) fixed to it and the top of each of the rudders, as per the picture of the finished model on the cover of the instructions. As mentioned earlier, there is a tracked ground-handling tractor that is made from thirteen parts, including a pair of crew seats for two seated crew members, who are accompanied by a guy with a spanner, another wearing headphones and pointing up at something, and finally a gentleman in a parachute harness with headphones that could be a representative of the crew. If you are using the tractor, there is a towing bar included that fits into a recess in the yoke of the nose wheel and hooks over the towing hitch on the tractor. The colour call-outs for the tractor are shown during the build process, with more diagrams showing the correct colours for the included figures. Markings There are two decal options on the large sheet that are substantially different from each other, and have a good range of decals to add some detail and realism to the paintjob. From the box you can build one of the following: B-24D-25-CO ‘Flak Alley’, 44th Bomber Group, 68th Bomber Sqn., Shipdham, England, October 1943 B-24D-20-CO 98th Bomber Group, 343rd Bomber Sqn., Brindisi, Italy and ‘Bond Tour’ in USA, Winter 1943 Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. The instrument panel decal is a realistic-looking depiction of the real thing, with two cut-outs for the yokes. Conclusion The Liberator was an important, if slightly overlooked part of the US bombing offensive during WWII, and until someone releases a new tooling with engraved panel lines, this is the only game in town in 1:48 scale, and because of the size of it, shouldn’t be too hard to re-scribe if you prefer recessed panel lines. Highly recommended. Carrera Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  10. Well it's all a bit late but I'd like to enter these two: and: they are both relatively modern, state of the art kits. The Revell mould seems tired and has a lot of flash, particularly round the open cowling flaps: Revell correctly gets the gun alignment parallel to the ground, Academy doesn't. But the elephant in the room is the huge difference in fuselage depth: The Revell one (lighter plastic) has a huge belly. Now I don't know for sure (Academy is a -D, Revell is an -M) but I (and the Internet) think that may be a mistake on Revell's part. More digging required... Regards, Adrian
  11. Next off the bench is the Revell-Monogram 1/48 T-6G, being built as the SNJ I flew at Goodwood a few years ago. I actually made astart on this in 2020 but lack of bench space and COVID-19 put it on hold. Just starting on the Eduard detail stuff (meant for the Occidental kit but most of it is useable on this kit).
  12. Hi all and latest finish for me, built for the 'Above the Karman Line" GB here on the forum. The short build thread is here but to recap: Kit: Revell Millennium Falcon 'Solo' version Scale: 1/164 Build: Out of box Paints: Tamiya, Mr Hobby, Flory Models Wash, W&N Satin Varnish Decals: Draw Decals for Fed Ex 757 Cargo Extras: A good friend 3D printed some cargo containers but haven't finished them yet. Revell_YT_1300_Freighter_Falcon)FedEx_Done_1 (6) by dermot.moriarty, on Flickr Revell_YT_1300_Freighter_Falcon)FedEx_Done_1 (5) by dermot.moriarty, on Flickr Revell_YT_1300_Freighter_Falcon)FedEx_Done_1 (9) by dermot.moriarty, on Flickr Revell_YT_1300_Freighter_Falcon)FedEx_Done_1 (8) by dermot.moriarty, on Flickr Revell_YT_1300_Freighter_Falcon)FedEx_Done_1 (7) by dermot.moriarty, on Flickr Revell_YT_1300_Freighter_Falcon)FedEx_Done_1 (10) by dermot.moriarty, on Flickr Thanks for looking, take care and happy Christmas! Cheers, Dermot
  13. Volkswagen Corrado 35 Years Giftset (05666) 1:24 Carrera Revell The VW Corrado was a child of the late 80s, arriving in 1988 and based on the then-current Volkswagen A2 platform that could also be found under the Mk.2 Golf amongst others. It was a replacement for the Scirocco, but ran alongside it for around three years, with almost 100,000 made, half of which were sold in the US. It was designed as a 2 plus 2 sports hatchback, and for its time had classic lines that don’t look too out of date, even now. The bodyshell was partially zinc-plated, which kept the panels from rotting out as the years went by, although because of the nature of the car, many saw the wrong side of the hedge at some point in their lives, meaning that there is a dwindling stock available on the second-hand market today, with the price increasing as a result of that fact, and the nostalgia of those that would have liked one when they were in-production from 1988-95, of which I was one. The top-of-the-line VR6 had some components from the A3 platform, adding a new wider front-end to cater for the suspension and the additional bulk of the V6 that was either 2.8 or 2.9 litres if your budget would stretch to it, or you could have the G60, which was equipped with a supercharger mounted on a 1.8 engine, which wasn’t quite as fast as the VR6, which could get to 60mph either side of 7 seconds depending on the engine type. The base model 1.8L 16V wasn’t slow however, getting to 60mph in a respectable 9 seconds, but those two seconds make a lot of difference on the ground. Initial sales were slower than VW would have liked, partly due to the higher price when compared to the ageing Scirocco, which sold alongside the Corrado for three years, but anyone that had a hankering for some hi-tech gadgetry would have been enamoured with the spoiler on the rear of the sloped hatchback boot, which automatically deployed at 100kmh and drew admiring glances from those that were left in its wake, although whether it helped with handling is debatable, as all Corrados were front-wheel drive, so technically the airflow was putting more weight on the rear, thereby lifting the front wheels and reducing their traction. Still cool though. There was talk of the police being able to tell how fast you were going by whether the spoiler was deployed, and I have a feeling that its function was made selectable at some point, but as they have radar guns anyway, it didn’t deter many people. The last model in the US was in 1994, with Europe following on the next year, with no upgrade or replacement available in its place, which is a shame, as the Corrado had a good reputation and a stylish name that was gleaned from Spanish and roughly translated means sprinter. I’d still like one. The Kit This is a reboxing of the kit that was originally tooled in 1990 as a G60, complete with supercharger assembly under the bonnet, although it has been reboxed in the past as other variants, one the extremely rare Zender cabriolet that was released in 1991, just a year later. The kit is a celebration of 35 years since its launch, and arrives in an end-opening box with three sprues and the bodyshell in grey styrene, a clear sprue, a bag of four flexible black tyres, decal sheet and the instruction booklet, which is printed in colour and has the painting and decaling guide on the rear page. The package is completed by another bag containing six thumb pots of acrylic paint, a 12.5g bottle of Contacta Professional cement with a precision applicator, and a #2 brush without protector that had got a little bent out of shape. Detail is as you would expect for a kit that is almost as old as the 35-year anniversary that the giftset is intended to celebrate, and although some aspects of the model are slightly simplified, there is a full engine on the sprues, and with a little surgery you can ‘pop the hood’ to show off your work under the bonnet. Construction begins with the engine, starting with the cylinder head with integrated supercharger unit, applying a choice of two decals on the head after painting. This is then added to the top of the two-part block and transmission, and has the sump fitted underneath, installing the exhaust manifold under the supercharger at the rear of the transversely mounted engine, and fixing the distributor on the front, which you’ll need to wire up if you are planning on opening the bonnet. At the front of the engine, the air-intake path is connected to the supercharger on the left side, and at the other end of the block depicting the alternator, which is later supported by the front axle. The front of the floor pan is painted in preparation for engine installation, painting the inner arches in body colour, and the ancillaries in various other shades, plus black for the cover panels, and applying a decal to the top of the battery that is moulded into the left inner wing. The completed engine and front axle are then inserted from below into the space at the front, supporting the axle with a pair of coil-over shocks that are painted yellow in the centre. A scrap diagram shows that from the side the engine should be tilted back 5° from vertical, using the floor pan as datum. Underneath the pan, the exhaust with catalytic converter is inserted into a recess down the centreline, starting at the downpipe and ending at the forward muffler box, which is made from two halves, the visible portion having stiffening ribs moulded into its surface. The rear box has the entry pipe moulded into it, as well as the exhaust pipe, adding the stainless-steel tip, which is over-thick and will need thinning or replacing with a length of tube to improve realism, remembering that the tip is angled. The rear axle is mounted behind the front box, and fits snugly around the rear box, mounting on another pair of yellow coil-over shocks. The wheels are each made from three parts, consisting of a bland inner rim that you paint black inside to hide its presence, then gluing the visible alloy wheel design to the front and slipping the flexible black tyre over the assembly, the latter having a nice tread pattern moulded-in. There are some slight sink-marks in the surface of the alloy portion of the hub, which can be filled and sanded flush with a little care to protect the moulded-in details around the stud locations and logo. The finished wheels snap into position, then the radiator assembly is made up from the core moulded on a cross-member, with the fan trapped between it and the tin-work behind, lowering it into position at the front of the engine bay, and connecting a hose to the supercharger, then linking the air box to the intake trunking via a ribbed cylindrical structure. The front seats are both made from front and rear parts, and have two decals applied to the centre cushions to depict the pattern of the material on those portions. They are set aside while the interior tub is prepared, first painting the moulded-in scuttle at the front, the carpet, centre console, pedals and the integrated carpet mat under the driver’s feet, which are on the left side, sadly for the right-hand-drive fraternity. There is a choice of white or red Corrado logos to apply to the front carpets if you wish, depending on which colour you paint the carpets. The rear seats are painted and decaled, the gear shifter with gaiter and decal plus manual handbrake (remember those?) in the centre, and speaking of the centre console, there is a large sink mark at the front of this, but as it is covered by the dash panel later, who cares? The seats are installed on a pair of raised guides, fitting the door cards after painting them and detail painting the accents and latches for added realism. The dash is made from two parts, most of the detail is moulded into the vertical section, which has two decals applied for dials and heater details, then is topped off by the coaming, which has a pair of vents in the forward corners. The short steering column with stalks is inserted under the instrument binnacle, fitting the steering wheel to the top with a grey accent panel in the square centre boss, which is perhaps the most dated part of the car. The completed dash is inserted into the front of the cab, and here the diagrams initially seem to imply that there is a separate lower structure that is undocumented, but it is simply the shelf under the dash, which has had its connecting ends mostly obscured by the red location arrows. The completed interior can then be joined to the floor pan, mounting on rails and locating via the exhaust tunnel. The bodyshell has its upper interior painted black, except for the roof, which is painted a dark grey to match the accent material, and the bonnet is also painted black if you plan to open it up for viewing, which is shown in the next step, although only after the deed has been done, and you have taped it back into place, presumably to keep the bodyshell from deforming during handling. The rear of the shell has a pair of inserts fitted into the light cluster cut-outs, and these may need trimming of flash, then painting with your shiniest silver or chrome colour to reflect some light back through the clear lenses installed later, which are painted red, amber and left transparent where the reversing lights are. The trim around the doors, windows and screens are all painted black, assuming you have painted the shell red (other colours are available), adding more black paint to the clear part to depict the trim at the bottom of the windscreen and on the B-pillars. The clear part is inserted from within the shell, and the body is then fixed to the floor pan, leaving the front side windows without glass, as is common with many car models. The rear bumper is added under the boot at the same time as the rear light cluster mentioned earlier, then the front bumper with black valance is fitted with clear lenses under the main lights, fixing it in place, then adding the grill and integrated light backing strip under the bonnet. These lens backings are flat, and should be painted chrome to reflect the light before you fit the headlamp lenses. If you have cut the bonnet loose from the bodyshell, the tape can be undone and the bonnet removed so that you can install the slam panel, and a dash pot on the rear bulkhead, then the bonnet is glued in place at an angle, but a stay isn’t provided, so check your references and make one up from wire or rod that fits the bill. The two windscreen wipers are fitted to the clear windscreen, so take care with your choice of glue so that it doesn’t fog the screen around it. Another wiper is fitted to the rear screen too, and the wing mirrors are built from the shell plus clear mirror, which you should paint chrome on the back side to maximise reflectivity of the part in the same manner as a real mirror. The final task is to stretch a length of sprue to create the radio antenna that fixes to a base glued to the rear of the roof at an angle, which helps the car look fast even when standing still. Markings There is only one set of marking for this model, but the main differences between individual cars is the body colour and the number plate, of which there is a wide choice from various countries. From the box you can build the following: Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt and gloss carrier film, which varies between individual decals, and is cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion I was a big fan of the Corrado when it launched, and still have a soft-spot for it, even today. The model is a little on the old side, but it’s also the only game in town, so I’m planning on building it. If you’re looking for an upgrade to the detail, you could consider the transkit from Whitechocolate124. Highly recommended, despite its age. Carrera Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  14. Hi all, Here's my Phantom FGR.2 that I finished this weekend. It's the Revell rebox of the Hasegawa kit (the original one, not the recent one), which we are all pretty familiar with. Not a bad kit, but I did replace some bits of it with aftermarket. The wheels are Aires, the seats are Quickboost, the pylons are from Aerobonus. I was planning to just use the old Airdoc RAF Germany Phantom decals, but they turned out to be not so good. Not in register, undersized, and some colours were a bit off to me. So I also got some from a Model Alliance set, stencils from Xtradecal, and a few from the kit sheet. Painted with Mr. Color. I went for 31 Squadron markings, mainly because you don't see those often. Thanks for looking, Pete
  15. Having already edited Rafale B and M kits in 1/48th Revell has surprisingly not yet in its range the most produced variant I mean the single-seat Rafale C. This will be done in 2018. Don't forget the Korean mix (B+M=C !) edited once upon a time by the Revell plastic injection contractor: ACE (Link) - ref. 3901 - Dassault Rafale C Source: https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/RV3901 V.P.
  16. Dassault Mirage 2000C (03813) 1:48 Carrera Revell The Mirage family of fighter aircraft began in the late 1950s as a brainchild of Marcel Dassault, using the delta wing format and having no horizontal tail surfaces. The Mirage 2000 is the final mainstream (ignoring the Mirage 4000, which did not see service) 4th generation development of the general concept before adoption of the Rafale by the French Air Force in 2000. The C in the title for the fighter stands for Chasseur or Hunter. As well as two internal 30mm DEFA cannon the aircraft is armed in the air-to-air role with Matra R550 Magic, Matra Super 530D, and MBDA MICRA Missiles. In addition to the Mirage C there is a two-seat B model trainer, N model that has Nuclear Strike capability, and D model Ground attack version, all of which saw service with the French Air Force. Mirage 2000 aircraft have also been sold to Egypt, India, Peru, The UEA, Greece, Tiawan, Brazil, and Qatar, many of which are still in use, although at time of writing, Greece retired theirs a couple of years ago. The Kit This is a reboxing by Carrera Revell of a Monogram kit that was first issued in 1982, and was later upgraded with some weapons, most notably the Exocet missiles, and a one-piece lower wing. The kit arrives in a shallow end-opening box with a painting of the subject on the front, and inside there are four sprues in grey styrene that don’t have the modern runners around the edges to protect the parts from damage or accidental removal during handling. There is also a small clear sprue, a wide decal sheet and the instruction booklet that is printed in colour on matt paper, with painting and decaling instructions on the rear pages. Detail is reasonable for the era, although the panel lines on the underside of the wings are engraved because of their later tooling date, while the rest are raised, which might make a little extra work for the modeller if the urge takes them it rescribe the rest. There is a little flash here and there, but much of it is on the sprues, although a little is also present on the parts, but flash is easily removed, and is preferable to short-shot parts on any day of the week. The clear parts are in good shape, although my sample had a little light scuffing on the canopy that could be sanded and polished away with little effort. Construction begins with the cockpit tub, adding the instrument panel in the front, building the Martin-Baker Mk.10 seat from three parts, and adding decal seatbelts before installing it in the sloped rear of the cockpit along with the control column. There is also a crew figure that is moulded mostly in one part, with a separate right arm for the control column that should allow it to be positioned accurately on the control column. The pilot’s back is hollow to help reduce the likelihood of sink-marks on the figure, and to assist in a close fit to the seat or waving to someone if you prefer. The fuselage halves have sidewall detail moulded into their inner surfaces, and these should be painted before the cockpit tub is glued to the starboard side, and the walls of the nose gear bay beneath are inserted underneath and into the port side, so that the fuselage can be closed and the seamlines dealt with in your preferred manner. The clear windscreen and HUD glass parts are fitted to the front of the cockpit opening, then the assembly is put to one side while the wings are built. The lower wing is moulded as a single full-span part that also has portions of the lower fuselage moulded-in, gluing the upper wings over the top, and then unusually moving on to the making of the main landing gear before it is joined to the fuselage. Each gear leg comprises a single strut with retraction jack added, and two-part wheels glued to the stub axle at the lower end, fitting the captive bay doors next to the strut on the outer edge of the bay. It’s probably wise to skip ahead and join the fuselage to the wings before doing this, but the instructions blunder on with the weaponry next, making a large three-part finned fuel tank for under the centreline, a couple of Exocet missiles on custom pylons, and a pair of Magic A2A missile on their own pylons on the outer stations. This is where the two assemblies are joined in the instructions, and good luck dealing with any seamlines without knocking any of the weapons or gear legs off if you followed the instructions! The single SNECMA M53-P2 engine is not depicted, but the afterburner ring is trapped between a tapering length of trunking and exhaust petals, which slides into the rear of the fuselage under the tail once completed, and to avoid any possibility of see-through effect, the four holes in the trunking ‘plant pot’ would be best filled with styrene sheet or something similar. At the intake end, the blanked off fronts of the nacelles either side of the cockpit have a two-part intake with shock-cone on the inner face, and a strake added at an angle to the horizontal on the outer surface, with a scrap diagram helping you get the angle right. If you followed the instructions, your Mirage is lying nose down on the table at this stage, which is about to be rectified by the addition of nose gear, which is moulded as a single strut and retraction jack, which has a pair of trapezoidal landing lights added, one on each side of the strut, and two single part wheels, one on each side of the short cross-axle. This plugs into sockets in the shallow bay, then it’s a case of adding the various probes and sensors around the model, one on each side of the fin, two at an angle in front of the windscreen, plus another in the centre, and the pitot probe at the very tip of the nose cone. The final act is to decide whether you want to pose the canopy open or closed by gluing the tab at the rear of the part into a slot behind the cockpit at an angle or otherwise. Markings There are two decal options on the wide sheet, both wearing the same basic scheme, but one with special markings to set it apart from its in-service colleague. From the box you can build one of the following: Mirage 2000C/RDM EC 1/2 ‘Cigognes’ Dijon, France, 1994 Mirage 2000C/RD EC 5/330 ‘Côte D’Argent’, Centre D’Experimentations Aeriennes Militaires EM AA Monte-de-Marsan, Tigermeet 1996, Beja, Portugal Decals are by Cartograf, which is a guarantee of good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. Conclusion It’s not the newest kit in the world, and you might want to consider rescribing the raised panel lines if you’re so inclined, but there are some good decal options to make this old kit more appealing. Recommended. Carrera Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit or
  17. This is the Eurofighter from Revell's '60 Jahre Luftwaffe' set, but in its regular uniform without the festive decals. Thanks for looking! Luka
  18. I am in the process of scratchbuilding the fire-fighting section for a Land Rover TACR1, using the Revell 1:35 kit as a basis. I have the main details for the side and rear, with the help from Mick Bell plans, but I am having difficulty working out how the top looks. I've done searches on dozens of images but they are mainly quarter-angled side views. Does anyone have top down photos and details of how the roof area looks please? cheers, Mike
  19. Another older work of mine, but I think FGN (Federal German Navy) ships are a bit underrepresented. Hence ... As always: thanks for looking Cheers
  20. A little project to extend my pretty meager "rockets in 1/72" collection. The Revell Germany A4 plus a scratchbuild WAC As always: thanks for looking Cheers
  21. Here is my latest build of a 1980s General Dynamics F-16 A Fighting Falcon of the Royal Netherlands Air Force. It is the J-257 of the 322 squadron based at Leeuwarden. Cheers!!!
  22. Another kit that I finished last year... I tried to change the shape of the cover over the helmet, but not really too succesful. Some little details added. I think the impression/atmosphere of the kit is quite good, accuracy is another issue As always, thanks for looking. Cheers P.S., yes I know Neil would have a hard time reading the checklist on his left arm. The watch is way too low - maybe I will change it - one day ....
  23. Basically built this Starfighter for its striking experimental blue scheme. Thanks for watching Luka
  24. Now I have finished my builds for another Gb I should have time for two or maybe 3 tanks in this one. First up is this. It is the simplified export version and comes with optional Iraqi markings. Pete
  25. Hi all, I've been here a few weeks now and though it was about time I showed you what I'm up to. I've very fond memories of watching Star Trek (TOS) as a kid in the 80's with my dad and my brother and it's one of the few things that has really stuck with me through changing times. The Enterprise itself I find mesmerising, it's graceful and each part of the ship has a clear purpose, a design classic and I love it. My favourite itteration has to be the refit, which I hope to build at some point in the future So, I got in to modelling because I wanted a decent model Enterprise, I've had a few very small die-cast models but they are always lacking something. I found the Revell kit online and decided that I'd build my own, LED lights and all. Now I've well and truly got the modelling bug, I've bought the Star Trek Starship Voyager for my next model, I've built a small Star Destroyer and plan to build models from Battlestar and other Star Trek models Here's some photos that I took while building my Enterprise, I wasnt originally planning on posting them online but then I found this place, so here it goes! 1. What a great start, I ruined my first model! I wanted to light my model with LEDs, so it had to be light-proofed. So the insides of the model had a coat of adhesion promoter, followed by black, then a silver or while coat would be painted to make it reflective. I was watching lots of Boyd's Trekworks Youtube videos for info and he used a heat gun on a gentle heat to aid the drying process.... I'll never do that again, my model melted You can see the plastic deformation from the heat in this image. It also shows my initial plan for lighting, which was to cover all windows with grease-proof paper, which diffuses the light, then placing LED's around the ship to light them up. 2. Saucer section interior is about ready So after buys a replacement model I started again, with a few important lessons learned This image shows the insides of the saucer section, painted and with the windows covered. I used 'Revell Contacta Liquid Special' to glue the clear windows in place, and to glue the greese-proof paper in place. The secondary hull, again with the inside prepared for lighting, it's had a black coat followed by a light coat to refelct the light. By this time I'd also started experimenting with LEDs, the breadboard in this photo had a 555 Timer chip and a 4017 Decade counter, they'll be used for the rotating lights of the Warp Nacells and the blinking navigation lights. 4.Let there be light! Not sure of the best positioning and arrangement of LEDs I just dove in with something that looked like it would give good coverage. I know some people use fewer but brighter LEDs, and some use LED tape/strips, which I might look at using in the future. Each LED has a resistor attached, and they're all in parallel, so if one should fail the others will continue to work. 5. Glue. After lighting the secondary hull in a similar way I was ready to glue a few parts together. Which I was pretty worried about as I considered it opportunity to ruin yet another model. I used Revel Contacta Professional glue and found my fears were unfounded, thankfully 6. Circuits To light this model I would need to build some circuits to handle the navigation lights and the rotating buzzard collector effects. So I bought the relevant gear from Maplin (I now use RS instead) and designed a few circuits in Pad2Pad, which is excellent free circuit design software. The first completed circuit was for the navigation lights, I was initially planning to put it inside the model but then decided I would fit it in the stand instead. 7. Warp Nacell Test #1 You saw my breadboard with a few components in an earlier photo. This is basically how the Buzzard Collector effect works on my model, The red, orange and green LEDs are aranged in a circle and give the impression of rotation. 8.Warp Nacell Circuit fitting After designing my Warp Nacell circuit in Pad2Pad, I printed it off, cut it out and placed it in it's intended final position to make sure it would fit. The circular plastic piece has holes drilled in it to receive the LEDs, 12 of them (for a single Nacell). 9. Assembled Warp Nacell Board After building the warp nacell board I fit it in place. Now you can also see how the LEDs sit. It's a pretty tight space so I was pleased that everything went in with no problems In the video below, the middle light isnt connected to any power, it will eventually be 'always-on' to provide a steady red glow. The camera doesnt really do the below any justice. 10. Closed up my first Warp Necell - and made my second big mistake It's amazing isnt it that you can do something, then the instant you finish you realise you've done it wrong. I guess it's not really that big a deal, the model isn't completely accurate anyway and I'd already decided that I would'nt worry about that this time. But this mistake was easily avoidably, yet at the crutial point I... put the wrong circuit in the wrong nacell, so the buzzard collectors now spin in the wrong direction. Only a Trek fan would notice, but it's annoying all the same. Still, after much grumpiness I think I can live with it. 11. Connecting the Pylons and the Seconday Hull. I'd already glued the warp nacells to the support pylons and let those set, I'd also done some work on removing the seams on all the parts glued so far. Now it was time to connect the wiring up and glue them to the secondary hull. With the wiring connected and the pylons glued on to the secondary hull, it looked like the area would be under a fair bit of stress, so I stuck a clamp in place to hold things together while they set. 12. Windows, I hate Windows I bought some masking fluid so that I could mask the windows, but found it to be far to imprecise and the results (of tests I did on my melted saucer section) were pretty messy. So after getting some advice right here on Britmodeller (thanks guys, you know who you are) I settled on masking the windows with masking tape. I used a scalpal to cut small rectangles working on one at a time. It took ages. I have used the masking fluid on a few of the larger clear pieces, but I'm still not impressed with the result, maybe I just need more practice with it! 13. All Masked, Time for the Primer With all the clear parts masked I bought myself a 'lazy suzan' and gave the entire ship a coat of Hycote Adhesion Promoter and then a nice coat of Hycote grey primer. No way was I going anywhere near this thing with a heat gun The wires you see here will eventually be fed through the stand in to the base. I found the Hycote cans give excellent fast coverage, pretty cheep too. 14. Base Color With the primer dry it was time to start mixing colours (as per the model instructions) and giving it some proper color. I used a 'Sparmax Arism Mini' Airbrush to spray the model, with Revel Aqua Color paints. I found that thinning the paint 2-parts paint to 1-part thinner worked pretty well. I'd aslo sprayed the deflector dish, I love that copper colour and started giving the warp nacell and impulse engines some colour. I was having trouble cutting the masking tape perfectly to cover the inside of the impulse engines, so decided to try the masking fluid. The result was not great but I think It'll look fine if I touch it up with a brush. So, that's my model so far. It's the first model I've ever build and while I've found it quite challenging I've really enjoyed it and plan to do many more in the future. I'll post more photos and videos as I make more progress. And thanks to everyone here for accepting me in to the site and giving me some great tips! Cheers
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