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  1. Hey all modellers, my name is Troy and this will be my first post on here following through this, imo, jank process of making a one-off 1/24 Hawker Tornado, specifically, P5224 This is being constructed by a 20 year old who is obsessed with kit building but only has the most basic of tools plus a 3d printer. I started this project late last year so this is a catchup of sorts. Props to @Troy Smith for putting the idea up to post it here. Enjoy! It must've started from this and the fact I have a handful of Typhoon kits in the stash ready for action From then I bought two 1/24 Merlin engines and, well, cut them down the crank line and smushed them together, along with other bits of plastic like a Citroen injector sleeve (the reduction gear housing) I did use diagrams and measurements to make sure it actually is scale accurate to a Vulture. A RR Vulture which is two RR Peregrines, being a RR Kestrel that is lengthend to take two sets of conrods. Trying to figure what pipe went where and how things should look isn't too easy when old scans and one drawing is all you have but I think it worked out out okay Now this is where the Tornado really started. I wanted to make the truck and Sabre engine diorama so naturally I did but now I've opened the Typhoon box so naturally I need to finish it now So now it has began, starting off wings spars and cockpit tubing which was already removed for the previous project as well as cutting the wings up where the 3inch (3mm to scale) drop should be The first bit of scratch building was the quite different cockpit up the front. Thank goodness for the Valiant series Typhoon book It wasn't really meant to be a super serious project but seeing as this is probably the only model of a Vulture and only 24 scale Tornado I thought, maybe I should do this good I found that after taking out the Sabre and it's relative supporting structure, that the kit sort of falls apart in that there aren't many places to glue. The instructions were vaguely being followed but the rest was just figuring out how to make it work. Lots of calculator and ruler work More recently, I was finally getting somewhere. The wings are 3mm lower from their mountings but also 5mm back from there mounting as I discovered after something wasn't lining up. Something I don't think is documented The pencil line on the belly shows the change in positions quite well. Visible also is the replacement forward wing spar and the gaps where new sheet will put to make the iconic flattish bottom of the Tornado Following the repeated removal and fitting of the engine to make it "right", I was on to the accessories which obviously needed modifying, this being the coolant trunks on the side of the radiator The exhausts needed cutting down as they protruded too far of the cowlings. The cowlings, canopy hood and propeller unit are all 3d printed. Some technology it is, brilliant piece of hardware if you can use it right which my younger brother Eddy is especially good with. This is where we are now. No photos show the mount bracket for the radiator so it's anyone's guess as to how they mounted it. Just one photo of the cowlings removed is found unless there are more *plezz* The Rotol propeller, which, from what I can see, is 100% spot on with size. This has a 14Ft diameter to the point when scaled up
  2. This was on deck right after my YF-16 and again using the vintage Monogram. The 1980 kit F-18 has the open LEX slots perfect for the first prototype but still needs some small changes, mainly adding dog tooth on the elevators and wings plus some changes in the cockpit instrument panel. I added seamless intakes and a vac canopy as the original was too small and not the more rounded omega shape. In both kits I used the original landing gear struts, they are of the day's molding capabilities but despite some chunky areas are well detailed and even have the brake lines included. Paint was a mix of Testors MM enamel blues and Testors gold, Caracal and Monogram decals. Caracal had matched their 'F-18 Hornet - The Early Years' with the original blue auto paint used in the rollout F-18 which saved me from repainting the Monogram decals the correct color.
  3. I'm a fan for the old Monogram 1/48 kits, they had so much more detail than other kits at the time. This kit I first built as a child, brush painted with some red paint that took ages to dry.... I've wanted to retry it and have had the kit in my stash for a while. After reading Robert Coram's book 'Boyd: The Fighter Pilot Who Changed the Art of War' did the trick and I was finally ready to dig out my 1979 Monogram F-16 kit and make what Boyd referred to as a pure fighter. The YF-16 at that point was more like his vision, not a multirole aircraft but light, fast and maneuverable. This project also got an F-18 prototype kit out too and was next on the bench, another Monogram kit from 1980. The F-16 kit is pretty close to the YF-16, it needs nose reshaping, cockpit/seat changes and some other little things but comparing my changes to profile photos it worked well. Vingtor decals were used. This shows how the nose got bigger with the radar on the production versions. And some minor differences from above And finally to my studio where the shelves are and I paint other things. If interested you can see my paintings here.
  4. Well, I had a sort of schedule in mind for what I was going to build next, but something has occurred that blew all that out of the water! A couple of weeks ago, I saw a preview or review of this kit, and sat down immediately to order one from Ukraine, as I could hardly wait. It was scheduled to arrive around July 4th, but showed up unexpectedly yesterday. Wow! Talk about fast shipment, from a war-torn country -- words can not express how amazed I was. Sometimes, it takes longer for me to get a package from Canada to Atlanta, Georgia USA. (NOT THE FAULT OF CANADA POST!). The US postal system seems to like sending parcels back and forth between New Jersey and New York, before banishing them to south Georgia, before they can figure it all out. I say this as a US postal service retiree, so i feel justified in saying that "the old grey mare ain't what she used to be"... but then, what is? Anyway, here's what they sent me in a nice sturdy mailing box. The kit box was un-assembled and included: The kit includes 16 pages of illustrated instructions, plus a paint/decal guide for the two aircraft built: and a BUNCH of parts, including a PE fret, and actual nose glazing: For references, I shall be using one book, one magazine article, some photos grabbed decades ago from a great old movie, I think called "Towards The Unknown", as well as some pictures grabbed here and there on-line: By the way, and sadly for those desiring such, the decal sheet in the kit does NOT include the markings for the fictional Gilbert XF-120, which would have been a heck of a huge fighter -- image the Thundbirds markings for these! Now, it's not like I haven't tried building a model of the XB-51 before. Decades ago, (before being burned out on modeling), I began an old Execuform "Nostalgia On Wings" 1/72 scale scale vacuform offering, and then a while later, the Anigrand version, both of which ended up on the Shelf of Doom. While they both had their problems, the major problem was me.,.. Below, a comparison of the fuselages from each kit. Top to bottom, the Execuform kit, with a few embellishments, the the Anigrand, followed by both halves of the Mir kit: As you can see, they are all pretty close. A while back there was a build claiming that the Anigrand kit was way to short, and had to be lengthened and fattened to shape up. I decided to measure this kit, to the best of my capability, and I think that I have found out what the problem was. Below is is a picture of this process: When determining the length of an aircraft, it is important to know whether it will fit, whether it be into a hangar, onto a hangar deck or elevator, or what have you. Sometimes, you have to contend with a nose boom or the like. In this case it will be from the tip of the nose cap or glazing, to the rear tips of the horizontal stabilizer, NOT the rear of the fuselage! In my process above, the parts are just taped together, and the Horizontal tips rest against a box, and the forward position is marked just ahead of the fuselage tip, as I did not attach the nose cap/glazing to the fuselage. The standard length given for the XB-51 is 85 feet and 1 inch (85'-1"). My crude assembly measures out to be 84'-6", or about 7 scale inches short, call it a slightly fat 2mm in real life. There may be that much slack in my tape job or whatever! Anyway, I don't think that I have another 20 years or so to wait for another "more accurate" kit to show up, so by golly, I'm gonna finish this one! Stay tuned, Ed PS: If anyone would like to make an offer on either the Anigrand or Execuform kit, started but complete, PM me, or they'll end up on E-Bay.
  5. The latest AMW arrived today with next year’s Airfix catalogue. November 2019 is the classic box art of the BOAC Concorde. Does this mean a re-release of their early short-tail and heat-shield cockpit visor is on the cards? I assumed that the original moulds would have been doctored for the production type... Cheers Will
  6. 17 years ago I emailed Flankerman and asked if he had any pictures of the 1988 Su-27M/Su-35 prototype that was later left at Monino. He very kindly got back to me with a goldmine. The reference photos he sent me were a game changer as he had discovered the disruptive scheme was mirrored underneath and had a bundle of photos to illustrate it. I loved the Ferris like camouflage but also the new Su-27M nose profile with the traditional cropped fins as later Su-27Ms had the squared tips. I did all the hard work expected of an Academy and Sol conversion way back then and put it away; it sat in the box (with the occasional peeks) until this year. I've made a real effort to finish unfinished projects and clear the stash a bit. I'm pleased to say it's the last 1/48 Academy for me (7 built)! I'm now looking forward to all the newer companies much improved kits. Colors were mostly AKAN mixes, Neomega cockpit, Eduard etched details, DANmodels intake covers, Armory wheels and one of Haneto's (Fairy-Hobby) beautiful corrected canopies. The decals were from Begemot except for the stars which were hand made. I s I spent the last few days repairing my Su-37 Terminator so I could take a photo similar to this one of 711 and 701 together. i And finish with a hat trick.
  7. Hi all and looking forward to this one! I'm in with the first F-14A Tomcat in 1/72...specifically this one. Kit will be modified as necessary to backdate it to a prototype, with decals from the good people at Caracal Models CD72106 - F-14 "Tomcat" - The Early YearsCaracal. Photos to follow soon, good luck with your builds and happy modelling. All the best, Dermot
  8. Hi all and here's my first for this year, Grumman's model 303E which would become the F-14 Tomcat. Built for the Prototypes, Racers, Research, Record breakers, Special schemes megaGB here on the forum. The short build thread is here but to recap: Kit: Revell 1/72 F-14D converted Paints: Tamiya and Mr Hobby Acrylics Decals: Caracal for 'F-14 Tomcat, the Early Years' Mods: Earlier seats; modified wing gloves and fences with plasticard; earlier TF-30 engine nozzles; extended 'boat' tail; nose pitot from stretched sprue; removed lumps and bumps The #1 prototype made its short maiden flight on December 21st 1970 with Grumman chief test pilot Robert Smythe in the front and project test pilot William Miller in the back. On 30 December, on the aircraft's second flight, the aircraft was lost due to failure of a hydraulic pump which caused a total loss of flight controls. The crew ejected safely and the aircraft crashed short of the runway at Grumman's Calverton plant, New York. Revell_1_72_Grumman_F-14_prototype_build (10) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_1_72_Grumman_F-14_prototype_build (15) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_1_72_Grumman_F-14_prototype_build (16) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_1_72_Grumman_F-14_prototype_build (5) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_1_72_Grumman_F-14_prototype_build (19) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Revell_1_72_Grumman_F-14_prototype_build (6) by Dermot Moriarty, on Flickr Thanks for looking, take care and happy modelling. Cheers, Dermot
  9. My next effort will be the RS Models XP-79B, mostly because I don't yet have it in the collection, but also, until now, I wasn't certain how to build it with a few added things I wanted to do. I was also happy to find a kit review of the model over on Modeling Madness, by Scott Van Aken HERE This helped alert me to some possible problems, but didn't supply all the answers. So, here I go again, with something that I HOPE I know how to do! Of course, the nickname "Flying Ram" is totally inaccurate. Despite the legend that it was re-enforced to ram through enemy bomber formations, it was actually designed to carry 4 .50-caliber machine guns to do the dirty work. Besides, being made almost entirely of magnesium, only a scratch or two wrong and the aircraft would have become a flying bonfire. That was actually it's fate, the single prototype having crashed just 14 minutes into it's initial flight, when the aircraft began uncontrollably rolling to it's right, and the pilot bailed out. Unfortunately, the aircraft struck the pilot and he was unable to open his parachute. He died and the aircraft burned to a very small pile of ash on the desert floor. For some odd reason, the U.S. Army lost interest in the aircraft, and the project was cancelled... The kit: The kit consists of 31 fairly small parts, and a decal sheet, apparently including some "what-if" markings for a British aircraft. The drawing instructions, for me at least, were not crystal clear: Above left, right out of the box, I thought that part #30 (the cockpit rear bulkhead was supposed to go where part #12, actually goes, behind the canopy opening on the upper fuselage half, which has two small padded lumps that eventually will be painted leather-colored. (To digress for a moment, I have thought long and hard, wondering about how the pilot was strapped to the airplane, and I could not imagine any harness that would allow him to lay prone, and still get out of the rig to bail out. Guess it's amazing that he at least got out of the aircraft.) Anyway, due to the usual fact that RS does not provide locating pins on it's models, the cockpit "tub" has to be assembled on it's bottom edge, free-standing. Part #31 (the instrument panel) will be glued across the front, as seen above right, after the tub has been glued into place, which is largely a matter of achieving the best fit you can. Next, I glued the connecting shaft for the control yoke to the yoke while it was attached to the sprue. This allowed me to get it pretty much perpendicular to the yoke: Above right, the shaft and yoke are glued into place, with the yoke just proud of the bottom canopy opening, after gluing the little "V"-shaped part to the floor. The two "X" 's show ejection pins that must be removed. It was after test fitting everything to this point, that I discovered that the instrument panel, part #31 set too far back to clear the yoke, so I sawed it off the model, glued on two small bits of scrap card. When the glue is dry, these will be sanded to shape, and serve to simply extend the length of the IP so that it fits further forward: Above right, I used fly-tying hackle pliers to hold one half of the two clear canopy parts, while they were glued together with G-S Hypo (watch) cement. The pliers don't hold the halves together, they just give me something to hold the tiny parts while applying the glue! They are very tiny, awkward parts! Next, the intakes were temporarily glued into place, to allow proper spacing for some tiny split shot that I glued in with white glue, to get as much weight forward of the main gear as possible, a tip provided by Scott in his review -- thanks: Next, the "belly pad" was added, along with two forearm pads, made up from scrap card, which RS did NOT provide. Then, everything was painted interior green, leather and black. The kit plans call for the yoke to be painted aluminum; it was not. And with that, I'll close for now. See you next time, Ed
  10. Hello again. Back this time with some finished pictures of a project I've been dragging along on for some time. Years ago, I bought this Anigrand XP-49 kit on-line, as a used kit. It had some problems. The boom halves were badly warped, the landing gear doors and nose gear leg were missing, as were the mass balancers for the elevator. So, I started slowly sawing, slicing, bending and scrounging replacements parts,in this case from the same old MPC P-38F kit that I scrounged other parts from for my XP-38 prototype build. Only the nose gear door had to be fashioned from an old fuel tank of the right diameter, as the one on the XP-49 was longer than on the P-38. This became one of those kits that were only worked on while paint or glue on other models in progress were being built, so I never shot pictures for a build thread. Other than the above-mentioned problems, this was just another simple resin kit, albeit, one of the older Anigrand offerings. Like most other resin vendors, Arnold has improved his techniques in later years, and are these days, his kits usually quite build-able. The Lockheed XP-49 was a later proposed variant of the P-38, with larger, more powerful engines and weapons, as well as a pressurized cockpit for higher altitude flight. The newer engines didn't pan out, and while the XP-49 was said to have "run circles" around the P-38's, the advent of the long-range P-51's made it not worth the effort, First flown in 1942, it was tested to destruction at Wright Field in 1946. In any event here are a few pics of the finished beast: And, for those interested, here is a shot of the Lockheed twin-boom brethren, from left to right, the XP-38, the XP-49, and the XP-58 "Chain Lightning", for comparison purposes. As always, I'm glad to add it to the collection. Thanks for looking, comments or questions always welcomed. Ed
  11. Another oddity from warplanes of the First World War. Designed as a fighter pre synchronising gear the idea was that the observer could stand up to wield the single Lewis gun. I think it looks wonderfully quirky so fits the collection perfectly. The Sage. First order of business some working 1/48 scale drawings. As I’m committed to getting my KUTA builds and 109s done ( hopefully) this side of Christmas I think this will be a comparatively slow build, but as 2022 is looking like I’ll be building a lot of kits for GBs I thought I’d get at least one scratch build in to the bench.
  12. Focke Wulf Fw 189C/V6 "German Attack Plane" (SH72432) 1:72 Special Hobby The Fw 189 won the competition in to replace older reconnaissance type with the Luftwaffe beating the Ar 189 and Bv 141. The type went on to become the Luftwaffe's standard tactical recon platform. The aircraft features a central fuselage pod heavily glazed, with twin booms leading back to the tail, the front of which housed the engines. The Luftwaffe looked at expanding 189 production and called for a training version, attack version and a maritime version with floats. Only 2 prototype attack versions were built, and the single float version was never finished. Along with the prototype Fw 189B trainer two more B-0 aircraft were built, followed by 10 B-1 aircraft. As well as for training the aircraft were used in the Liaison role, though little is really known on this. The attack version featured a much smaller central pod which was armoured to protect the crew. Testing proved the view for the pilots was very bad, and the aircraft was underpowered. The Kit This is a rebox of the MPM kit with parts for the attack version and new decals. Construction starts with the small central pod. The basic seats for the pilot and gunner are added t the floor along withe control column and instrument panel. The floor is fitted into the rightside pod and the rear defensive machine gun added. The pod can then be closed up and the small cockpit glazing can now be added. Each of the twin booms can now be built up. There are front and rear bulkheads for the gear wells which support the gear well roof. At the front the engine face goes on, and to the left side resin intakes are added. Its now time to add the fuselage pod and the wings together. The lower wing is in three parts; a centre section and the two left/right wings. The upper wings are in left/right and attach to the fuselage pod, a hole will need cutting to accommodate the attack pod. A small clear resin gunsight is included which goes in front of the kit windscreen. The twin booms fit on to the underside with the centre section joining on one side and left/right sections on the other. The tail will also need putting in between the booms at the same time! This does look like it will need some time and patience to get everything aligned correctly. Once all of the main structure is assembled the landing gear needs making up and installing in each boom. The last things to do are to install the props and the tail wheel and s couple of small PE parts including an aerial. Markings The glossy decal sheet is printed in house and looks sharp and in register. There is only one decal option NA+WB. Conclusion It is good to see this released. The kit will take some fettling im pretty sure off, but once assembled it should look the part. Recommended. Review samples courtesy of
  13. My build of the Airfix 1/144 BAC Aerospatiale Concorde (Air France) (SK700) This was an Airfix 1970s Air France boxing with decals that were shot so I printed my own. The white plastic of the old kit was a joy to work with. Three down now, only one more Concorde to come! Dave
  14. Following hot on the heels of my other three Concordes, here is my build of the Airfix 1/144 BAC Aerospatiale Concorde (A05170V) as the BAC Prototype G-BSST. Decals came from F-DCAL. Here it is along the other three I built for the same ATF Group Build. There won't be any more Concordes for a long while! Dave
  15. My build of the Airfix 1/144 BAC Aerospatiale Concorde (BOAC) (05170-3) This was a 1970s boxing with decals that were shot so I used a set from a 2021 Vintage Classic release. The white plastic of the old kit was a joy to work with. BTW, here it is alongside two more Concordes well on the road to completion. There is a 70s Air France boxing using home-made decals. The BAC prototype is the grey plastic Vintage Classics release with F-DCAL decals: Dave
  16. Here is a very strange type, an aircraft I hadn’t even heard of before, until I was asked to build it as my second pro build for a client. In fact I hadn’t even heard of Planet Models either. It’s 1/48 but still tiny, with vac-form canopies and some metal parts. A very strange looking contraption indeed! But it should be an interesting build, very different from my recent Tornado and Jaguar! Has anyone else built this kit before?
  17. OK, @stevej60, this one's for you! Don't worry, I had it in mind long before I saw your comment in chat, so no guilt necessary- in fact I took these photos about the time the Group Build started, and then got distracted. This morning I printed side and top views from @Tailspin Turtle just to see if this pathetic kit actually does "look like a Skyhawk" (film at eleven...) My desire is to represent the prototype, though that may be subject to revision. I'm envisioning this as "low impact" modeling- relatively little AMS and worry about perfection, and I figure this is the right sort of canvas! Oh yes, and low impact among the audience, too... Of course, I'll indulge at least a teensy bit of tweaking (no, not twerking- trust me, you don't want to see that) just for the fun of it. And I'm already thinking of ransacking my 1/72 USN modeller-chum's boneyard, though no guarantees. bob
  18. Hi Chaps, As some of you know I have just moved from Thailand back to the UK and have about half my stuff with me. This half includes clothes, most of the stash, paint, children etc . What I don't have is my modelling bench and tools which I kept in Thailand during Covid 19 lock down. While emptying some box's today I rediscovered my Revell 1/48 Tornado as in the picture below. This was posted in July last year when the GB was approved and we were discussing kits choices. The overly huge original box was ditched the when I got the kit so had put it into an old T-33 box and then forgot where it was. I was very happy to find it today. While I wont be able to actually start for a few weeks until my tools arrive I might be able to tinker a bit. The plan is to build the first British Prototype in the red and white scheme not in wrap around as she is now at Cosford. This will complement my NA39 in the Buccaneer Group Build earlier in the year. If I can find enoght bombs I might go with the famous publicity shot of 8 x 1000lb bombs under the fuselage. This looked great but never appeared over Kuwait! Planned changes should be limited to the tailerons and base of the fin. The Red and white scheme should be OK to paint and I will have to print the markings. The problem area will be those Tri-National Roundals. Colin W
  19. The Northrop McDonnell-Douglas YF-23 was the losing contender to the Lockheed Martin YF-22 in the 1990s Advanced Tactical Fighter competition. These are two very different kits, one nearly 20yrs old and one a recent offering, both requiring a lot of work. The 2002 Collect-Aire is the more accurate and much of the dual build was to get the HB model to look more like the C-A. Some photos of the build can be seen here. F-15, F-18 parts where used for the landing gear just like the real aircraft, lots of modifications to both aircraft's cockpit although the C-A was the more accurate but lacking details, both canopies needed scratchbuilding interiors. The C-A had the dropped flaps and the weapons bay. There's no photos I've seen of it ever carrying weapons but the PAV 1 (gunship gray) aircraft had operating doors. It had some decent details and I only added riveting in the bay but left the Collect-Aire's offering of a weapons mount intact, I may add the door mounted sidewinders later but for now I wanted to show the essence of the company's endeavors on putting out such a remarkable kit especially considering the resources and published photos at the time. Probably not a dogfighter but they still haven't published it's top speed.
  20. Hooray - I can open the kit at last! I bought the kit in 2006 when it came out. It looks really nice. Good panel lines, lovely gull wing profile and the wings look great with very good detail in the wheel wells. But as you may be able to see, the canopy hasn't aged very well - bright yellow! So I invested in the Falcon Spitfire canopy set (No. 41) which has a prototype canopy - but only one, so I'd better be careful cutting it out! The kit decals weren't quite in register, so I got the Xtradecal set 075 which covers the prototype... which also aren't in perfect register . OK, better get started!
  21. Well, I was going to wait to the eleventh, but as so many of you have put up what you are doing, I might as well jump in. My contribution to this group build is the 1/72nd resin Spitfire prototype from CMR and a conversion using the Airfix Spitfire Ia and a conversion kit for the PRIF from Airkit. This is a resin conversion kit designed for the 1979 Airfix MKIa, but they look as if they will fit with some fettling The CMR kit represents the Spitfire prototype after it had been painted and the first set of changes made to the rudder and possibly the wings. It comes in a sturdy cardboard with the contents well packed and padded against breakage and loss. The resin parts appear to be well cast with only the odd air bubble. The parts, as can be seen from the photo are on moulding blocks that look to be straightforward to remove with care. Decals for the first prototype are printed on two sheets to give enough serials and are in register, I suspect they will be very thin and require careful handling. There is good detail on the resin parts with very neat surface detailing and a good interior that is enhanced by the inclusion of some coloured PE by Eduard for the seat belts, instrument panel and a couple of other parts. A choice of vacformed canopies is given with the later still of canopy seen on early MKIs fitted with the flat top canopy. Spares are given and the canopies look very clear. Separate rudder and elevators are provided. The kit looks like a good package and I look forward to starting on it, the one piece wing might make life a bit easier. I have a an old bottle of Compucolour Supermarine Grey that will form the basis of a match in acrylics for the airframe colour as there is still debate as to the actual colour, it does have a nice 30’s look to it. The Airkit conversion dates to the 1990’s and produced by a P Lucas. I wonder if that is the same Paul Lucas who writes in SAM? It consists of resin parts for the new deeper oil tank in the nose, a fuel tank behind the pilots seat, a pair of large underwing blisters and smaller ones for the top and a new part for the under fuselage where the cameras are. Not sure I will use that piece as cutting the bit of the undersides on the wing-rear fuselage fairing looks more trouble than it is worth. A quite thin vacformed canopy with side blisters is also supplied and will need careful handling. One of the big differences between the earlier and latest Airfix Ia’s is the way the canopies fit on to the fuselage. No decals are provided but I have an old Almarks and a Model Alliance sheet that have suitable markings. Clear instructions are given on a type written photocopied A4 sheet in the manner of pre home computer cottage industry days. Provided the replacement oil tank and canopy fit, should be an interesting build.
  22. The Snark am experimental triplane using the ill fated ABC Dragonfly engine. Three machines were built this is the third prototype. Side by side with my scratch built Pfalz Dr1, imagine if these two had seen service. With my scratchbuilt Pup, surprisingly big for a triplane. The WIP thread.
  23. Here are is Anigrand Craftwork's 1:144 Focke-Wulf Fw 191 V1 which I built back in 2013. This came in a set of four resin kits covering the four proposals for the ill-fated Bomber-B programme and represents the first prototype in early 1942. Apart from adding some details in the cockpit I thinned the gun barrels and added missing ones for the nose from stretched sprue as well as the wing pitot tube and the radio mast, also from stretched sprue. The rear end of the underside gondola was moulded solid and is clear so I cut away the section and added a part made from a clear piece in my spares box (Airfix Do 17 I believe!). The u/c doors were thinned as usual. Internet references were needed to place them properly. The kit was fully painted with brush except for the final coats of satin varnish which were airbrushed. I ignored the colour call outs of the (minimal) instructions and painted the kit RLM02 overall with the propellers in RLM70 Schwarzgrün and placed the wing crosses in a more correct position. Due to the little use of the prototype I didn't apply any weathering and only highlighted the panel lines of moving surfaces. Thank you for looking and, as usual, all comments are welcome. Miguel
  24. I've been hammering along on my Tamiya Meteor build and took a few progress pics yesterday. My first attempt at scratch-building a seat belt/harness was awful. I recalled a tutorial on Philip Flory's website that showed his technique for simple belts and buckles but alas, it's now in the paid subscriber section, which I am not unfortunately. But I did find a YouTube video in which a gentleman uses the exact same method and that really refreshed my memory about the technique. Well, I still have a long way to go in getting them to look just like I want. They are too much out of scale. But, they are an improvement and they were cheap. Made from masking tape and fuse wire, I'm hoping they'll be passable under a closed canopy. I still need to do a bit of tweaking on the buckles and adjusters, trimming, shaping and squeezing a little more. The two lap belts: Shoulder harness: The seat is merely sitting in place in these pics. Once the lap belts are on, it will be glued into the cockpit tub and the shoulder straps glued to the seat back. The rear of the bulkhead will get a small cover plate to conceal the back of the shoulder harness. I cut a slot through said bulkhead and glued a tiny bit of fuse wire across it. My plan was the thread the shoulder belts over and through that wire, draping them down the seat front. That proved too ambitious; the wire broke away as I fiddled with the ends of the straps and finally they were pulled down and taped in place against the rear of the bulkhead. Speaking of "fiddly"; dicking around with those tiny wire buckles and strips of tape was damned fiddly even working beneath the magnifier light! I know they're "out of scale" but they are just about at the limit of my eyesight and hand dexterity. The landing gear is finished and ready. Gear doors are done as well: One wheel is separate from each tire and the other side requires careful painting. I used masks from a Maketar wheel masking set for the first time and they seemed to work well. I have used a circle template when the rim was raised enough from the tire and I've also used very thin paint to fill the edge between wheel and tire, running the paint around the wheel and then filling in with multiple coats, with thicker paint. But this time I tried something new and it actually worked. The wheels are painted Testor's flat steel (little 1/4 oz. square bottle) mixed with silver and the tires are Humbrol dark grey 32. It's the closest "out of the bottle" color for tires that I've found. Tamiya provides a ballast weight for the Meteor that neatly fits into a space on the fuselage belly. I've read that that was barely enough weight to prevent tail sitting so I looked for space for additional weight. I found it beneath the cockpit "cowling". I mixed lead shotgun pellets into two-part epoxy and spread that paste under the cowl part. In the pic, there's a gap between that cowl and the fuselage. Well, with just a tiny press, that cowl almost snaps in place flush as can be. An impressive bit of Tamya engineering: The fuselage, together and awaiting priming and final seam filling: I'm hoping I'll have time to finish the cockpit today and get it installed. Then, I'll be ready to assemble the wings and get them attached. At this point, there's still a lot of work left to do but progress has been made at last! Thanks for looking in, having a peek, and yes, comments are welcomed!
  25. Hi gents! While waiting for the primer to try on the endless sanding repetitions on my YF-105A Thunderchief conversion, I a going to do something I rarely do, start a second project at the same time. Well actually, I do it all the time, but I just never publish it at the same time! Nevertheless, I'll begin first with the backstory. Several years ago, I ran across an interesting conversion by a modeler named Bill Dye. I never met Bill, but I he apparently loved to kitbash and convert, like I do. What I first found was his YF-96A conversion YF-96A Build I decided I'd have to build one of those, one day, but as is my norm, other things intervened. Sometime later, I ran across this pic: : The bottom aircraft is actually the second YF-84F, modified with a solid nose and wing intakes. I decided I'd like to build on of those, because I had never even seen a picture of one before. While researching THIS aircraft, I ran across another build started by Bill Dye of the same aircraft. Sadly, he never posted finished photos of the build, and I do not know where he is, or how he is doing. In any event, he (unknowingly) encouraged me to do this project. Here is a link to his version: Bill Dye's YF-84F While my research pointed me in a slightly different manner of conversion than Bill's, I will still use his technique of chopping out the needed cockpit cutout as a whole panel, and transferring it from the Heller F-84G kit to the Testors/Italieri RF-84F kit. Which is exactly how I'll begin, sawing two cuts 58mm apart across the Heller fuselage, and then laying out tape the long way to mark those cuts. The front saw cuts were 12mm wide, centered on the fuse join line, and the rear saw cut was 14mm wide, also centered on the fuse join. Almost all my panel line cuts are made the same way. First a tape line is laid out if needed. Then, a sharp #11 X-Acto blade is run along the guide, followed by a couple of passes with my Trumpeter scriber, and then finally, the saw: This usually leaves me a nice, clean cut-out, reducing sanding later. Next, the same procedure is repeated on the T/I RF-84F fuse, using the same measurements: Of special satisfaction to me is the fact that this is the same RF-84F kit that I had previously swiped the turtledeck from to build the YF-105A, the other work still in progress, which is why the little triangle of plastic is missing from above. Saves a kit! There are a couple of reasons why I decided to modify the RF-84F vs the Heller kit as Bill did, and I'll explain these later. Also at this time, I glued all the camera windows in place of the RF-84F for added strength. (Turns out only the single window further back really mattered!). Then, I sawed off the camera nose, just a hair ahead of the nose gear well: Next all the protrusions on the RF-84F kit had to be removed from both fuselage halves, in the area between the lines marked. This included the front wing supports only: For the cockpit I'll use a resin copy of, IIRC the CMK Academy F-84G cockpit set. I made several resin copies of the tub years ago, against future need. They are not all exactly the same as the "G" model, but they provide a good jumping off point, faster than scratch-building a cockpit. I also used a cut down and modified version of the Monogram F-105D as the instrument panel, also as a starting point: When the bare cockpit tun and IP are painted, they are glued into the cutout cockpit section from the Heller F-84G kit, after a little knife work to fit the rear tray of the cockpit into the fuse section. The rear was reinforced underneath with a bit of scrap plastic card, and everything was glued together with clear Loctite Go2 glue, which is sort of a thick, flexible CA glue with no bad fumes. While no good for areas requiring sanding, it's the bee's knees for nose weights and stuff like this, as it sticks to most everything and is water resistant (future sanding). Well, that's it for this time. Hopefully, I'll be back soon with either this or the YF-105A or something... Ed
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