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Showing results for tags 'Primer'.
Found 23 results
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Hi, I have been having real issues using vallejo primer. It has been clogging my airbrush and getting bad results and find even though it is definitely thin enough I need to pump the airbrush. It is soooooo frustrating! I see bits flinging out of the airbrush (AB) and can't get a nice slow low pressure low coat of paint / fine slow mist and build up layers like I want too and constantly find the need to pump and have a sudden burst of paint. I clean my airbrush with a mix of 99% rubbing alchohol, glycerin and method glass cleaner and it's brilliant. I'm losing the will to paint / live using this primer. I will not ever use nasty fume filled solvent based primers as they are killer. It has to be acrylic and safe. What do I need to do to find a solution?? - Adding klear? - Use distilled water and not tap water to dilute? (I live in oxfordshire and the water is hard) - mix my own primer using what...? - mix something else with vallejo primer? I have searched using the ;britmodeller tag and see lots of talk, but most of it leaning towards solvent based which as I say is an absolute no no. I don't tend to have such an issue when using a new bottle of vallejo primer only when it has been ran down and I'm using the last quarter of he bottle??? Is this the answer? Is there a way of filtering the primer to get rid of the issue???? Please help!
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Hi folks! During my ED-209 Build i had to realize that Vallejos Acrylic Primers do not bond so well on Vinyl Surfaces (the kit was washed, rinsed and dried before application). Up to now i have not tried out laqued based primers on Vinyl because i have seen several comments that those should be avoided as the agressive solvent attacks the already soft Vinyl. Has anybody here found a primer that works well with Vinyl? Any type of feedback is welcome, positive as well as negative!
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I have recently attempted to use the Ammo One Shot primer on a T34 build. During some test sprays on spoons I had great success. Laying down light layers produced a nice, smooth, opaque finish that stood up to sanding after curing overnight... despite the primer seeming a little thick out of the bottle it seems to go through my H&S Ultra 0.4, at 20-25 PSI with no issues. However... Upon moving trying on the model I barely managed to put a light coat on a rear quarter before I started to get splattering and clogging. This was more than a little tip dry. The nozzle was becoming thoroughly clogged and a deep clean was required to clear it out, even needing to resort to the reamer and brushes in the H&S service kit. It too me 3 cycles of spraying/cleaning to get a coat on the model and unfortunately it has dried quite rough. My diagnosis is that the primer is too thick, and the high PSI is causing it to dry before hitting the model... so I have 2 questions... 1) Is my diagnosis reasonable? 2) What have people had success thinning One Shot primer with? I have been using Mr Surfacer as a primer in the past (with mask and booth), but I am keen to limit putting nasties into the air as much as possible for the sake of kids/pets lungs and Stynylrenz/UMP/One Shot seem to be considered the better end of acrylic primers. Ta in advance.
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Good morning everyone , I had a simple question that has probably been answered hundreds of times , i finally completed my tamiya tiger 1 , it was first sprayed with vallejo white primer , and then vallejo model airs dk panzer grey , ok so bearing in mind this white primer gave a slight rough finish (because its white) i then painted the panzer dark grey , then it was finished off with 3 coats of gloss , the other day when it was on the shelf i desided to test how durable it was , so i gave it a medium scratch so not too much force , and i noticed tiny speckles of the white primer showing , incredibly small , does that mean my varnish is doing its job?
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I am sure that somewhere in Britmodellers I saw something that suggested using a pink colour as a basecoat (undecoat/primer) for dayglo orange. Am I right, or was I dreaming? I'm shortly starting an Airfix J 29 Tunnan as an Austrian service aircraft, and it requires dayglo orange in various places. If I'm wrong, I might use yellow as a base coat because the photos I have of J 29's in Austrian servic shows the orange to have a distinct yellow tinge. ( I think faded/weathered rather than applied) Can anyone confirm what I saw, or more likely that I'm wrong?
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Have used Halfords primer for years,it is probably the best by far-recently have ruined several models using alclad,which I used to swear by too. Now,despite the half dozen + airbrushes I own,I think I'll stick to rattle cans for primer. It works,and doesn't fall off. Has anyone tried any of the alternatives out there? I saw some from Simoniz on ebay,atleast it is a name I know,and at around £5 for 500ml instead of Halfords £7.50. Has anyone tried it? Before anyone mentions the Poundland stuff,don't. It is **** and the smell is something else-I can stand most paint smells but this is the worst I have ever come across.It is very dark,almost black,and glossy.And it doesn't stick that well. All suggestions welcome,except standing in a bowl of custard while dressed as a nun. mtd
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Hi chaps, I'm working on my 1970's Kenner C3-P0 and planning to paint it using Alclad II Gold, however I'm struggling with what undercoat to use. Question: Has anyone used Halfords Gloss black as an undercoat for Alclad II ?? I've been looking and reading various tips and tricks but I thought I would ask to. The Gold needs a gloss black undercoat. I prime my models using Halfords standard car body grey primer - an acrylic that needs cellulose thinners to clean up and I can over paint this with Humbrol Enamels as I've been doing for years without issue. So I did some tests. Test one - was to paint over the grey with Humbrol gloss black. I've left that for about 12 hours and then tried the Alclad and it immediately reacted and crazed the surface. Odd this as I had heard good things about using Humbrol gloss black to undercoat for Alclad. Test two - was to use Alclad's own gloss undercoat (over the grey) and then gold - this seems to work well but I have read lots of people say that the Alclad black does not dry at all so I'm worried about using thins combination. Test three - was using Halfords satin bumper black over the grey (random choice as I had it on the bench) and this also worked very well. Any suggestions would be great;y received. Kind regards Karl
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Mr.Hobby's "Mr.Finishing Surfacer 1500 Gray", is a new primer to me... I sprayed the 1:48 F-15e with it, thinned down with cellulose thinner, and.. firstly it kept getting stuck in the airbrush at 15/20 psi or barely coming out, so i had to turn the pressure up to around... 30 psi! The result was horrible. the finish is like tarmac. when i touch it i keep getting dust on my fingers and it feels like sand paper! (see images) I'm not too sure what went wrong here... 1. Could it be i didn't thin it enough? if so what are the percentages? 50/50? 2. Too hot? still hot over here. around 30 degrees. but garage didnt feel too hot as august. 3. What psi am i supposed to spray this primer at? 4. Am i supposed to spray it on WET? or dust it on first? Funnily enough, on the small parts like air-brake, pods and missile racks went on beautifully. I sprayed these slow and in heavy wet lines.
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Good afternoon everybody, I would like to paint an A380 and a Boeing 737 with their respective manufacturer's primer paint. I tried to find tips or clues on the forum but I didn't find a proper answer to my question. Can someone know the equivalent with Tamiya for theses primers ? I suppose that for Airbus I can use a set of greens like XF-51, XF-76 and XF-62 but for Boeing I don't know. Thank you for your help. If you spot mistakes in my text, please advise me, english is not my mother tongue. Julien
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Up to recently I have been using Tamiya fine primer rattle cans for priming - sadly with asthma and a heavy cold this is proving problematic (plus all the over-spray and fine particulates that they leave behind!) I am trying to move over to acrylic primers such as the ultimate primers or the Vallejo primers. Sadly I was unable to pick up any ultimate primers at Cosford yesterday, but I do have in my possession some Vallejo primer. Now I have tried using these previously but didn't get on with them following the recommended instructions (clogging etc). Now would anyone recommend thinning these primers at all? At the moment all I have is some ultimate thinner, but there is a place locally I can get some Vallejo thinner (not much else from there but at least I can get the thinner and cleaner!) At what ratio would most people generally thin at? I have found when using my airbrush, and what acrylic paint I'm using (Tamiya, xtracrylic, humbrol) my starting point is a 50/50 mix, but have no idea with the primers so any help would be appreciated. Thanks john.
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Primers Ammo by Mig Jimenez There are a plethora of different manufacturers primers on the market these days and Mig Jimenez has release three more in the AMMO One Shot range. Each of the three primers, white, grey and black are self levelling and water based. They have been designed to preserve the detail and to dry with a hard, flat finish. Fortunately, unlike some products they have little or no smell. You should clean the kit parts of any residue from the moulding process, but this isn’t always necessary as these primers should adhere to the plastic, or any other material such as resin or PE without problem. To use you just shake the bottle well before decanting into the airbrush cup and spraying at around 20-30 PSI in thin coats until the model or parts are fully coated. Once complete clean the airbrush out with you preferred cleaner, or you can use AMMO’s own A.MIG.2001 cleaner. White Grey Black Conclusion These are really nice primers and although I’ve only done some test pieces with them they do indeed level nicely and dry to a hard enough finish to be able to sand if required. Review sample courtesy of
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Good Afternoon Everyone, I'd like to ask what you think of Badger's Stynylrez primer. I tried it on a scrap kit for the first time today, and was a bit disappointed. It's a bit thicker than I expected, but that's not the problem, it just does not appear to cover as well as my Vallejo polyurethane primers. I sprayed through my Badger 200 at 20 psi, I usually spray the Vallejo primer at 15 psi. Don't get me wrong, I don't think Stynyrez is bad, but if any of you have used it, I'd like to know what you think, particularly if it needs a little thinning. Best Wishes, Will.
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Hey Folks, just a quick question, which one of these Primer is in your opinion the best one? Alclad: http://www.ebay.de/itm/GP-7-46-100ml-Alclad-2-Grundierung-schwarz-grau-weis-zur-Auswahl-/351115725361?var=&hash=item51c020ca31:m:mR_gNQS_JC7RmagWcugvbsw or Ultimate: http://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xultimate+primer.TRS0&_nkw=ultimate+primer&_sacat=0 Is this stuff good for applying decals: http://www.ebay.de/itm/Microscale-Micro-Set-Micro-Sol-setting-solution-for-decals-transfers-Free-Post/281710351170?_trksid=p2045573.c100034.m2102&_trkparms=aid%3D555012%26algo%3DPW.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20140107091039%26meid%3D370b657083c14fbf9a77fb1010b5974f%26pid%3D100034%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D172274173241
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Having just started using PE on some builds, I would like to know what is the best primer for priming the said PE. I use enamel paints for normal painting.
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Hey, I am searching for a good primer and tips how to do this in the best looking way. I heared from some people, that using the primer wasn´t that efficient, is that true? I would be very glad, if you visit my other topic. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235003411-xtracolor-alternatives/ It is very urgently . For the glossy top coat, I have no idea, because of the many other opinions in forums. I searched a lot on the internet today and saw the Alcad II Primer and Microfiler. http://www.ebay.de/itm/GP-7-46-100ml-Alclad-2-Grundierung-schwarz-grau-weis-zur-Auswahl-/351115725361?var=&hash=item51c020ca31:m:mR_gNQS_JC7RmagWcugvbsw Is this a good choice? Is it airbrush ready? - L.B. I apologize for beeing so dumb. I started this topic in the wrong section. Thank you for moving my topic
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Hi guys i bave recently got into airbrushing so i am getting to grips with priming my models i was just wondering do i need to thin the vallejo primer or should i spray from the bottle ? and if so what PSI should i be spraying ? thanks brandon
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Hello chaps, I'm looking for some tips on achieving the best results with Zero Paints primers - black in this instance. My first attempt has resulted in a rather rough (almost sandpaper) finish, so presumably it's drying before it hits the surface - should I thin it with some lacquer thinner? Any thoughts or experiences that might help me? Thanks in advance. Andrew
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I have a build to do which has a mix of NMF and white finishes. Unfortunately there is no cheatline, to demark the separations between the white and NMF finishes, so thought I would ask in what order others do their painting. Normally, I would use Tamiya's grey primer base for the whole model; however, the NMF will be in Alclad and using their black as a primer. I think the white would still have the grey primer but not certain on this. My queries are: - is there an order of priming and painting mixes of media? i.e. alclad primer and NMF first, then standard primer and white followed - or vice-versa? - what is the best method for masking/demarking the NMF and white? I'm concerned about bleed/overrun of the two mediums - is there a 'special' way to paint NMF and white mixed liveries on models? I would be very grateful for any helpful advice on this; I've been building and painting models for over 50 years but NMF is a newbie for me. Mike
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I am currently building, in 1/72, the Airfix Chipmunk and Airfix FW 190. I have dealt with the seams and joins and have sprayed on a few coats of Vallejo primer, (thinned 80/20). It has gone on lovely, nice and smooth with good coverage etc. However, my problems have now begun! I have found a few visible seams and the odd area where extra filler was needed etc. Having applied more filler and sanding back to smooth the primer has peeled/flaked off in small areas. This is the first time that I have used Vallejo primer. I wanted a suitable primer that can be put through my airbrush with a simple clean up and not too smelly, as that bothers Mrs L! I had read various reviews and was aware that some have found that Vallejo can peel away so I lightly sanded the surface before application to give the paint a key etc. I’m looking for some advice on a few issues, firstly the cause. Have I thinned it too much/not enough? Or when sanding back the primer have I used a too course grade and simple scratched it off? Secondly what to do now, sand it all off of try or feather the edges? When I try to feather the edges it just seems to get bigger would it be easier to get a fine sander and take it all back to the plastic and start again. Thanks in advance. Leon
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What airbrush cleaner should I use for Alclad Grey Primer and Micro Filler, the Alclad airbrush cleaner stuff is crazy expensine for such a small bottle. Can I use Isopropyl Alcohol/Isopropanol (99%)? What do you guys use?
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"Apply 3 or 4 thin coats of paint" is something I often see and it is always something that....well call me thick.....I just can't get my head around. To do a 'Wash' 4 parts thinner to 1 part paint add let dry wipe off, OK get that. To do a 'Glaze' 5 parts thinner to 1 part paint, apply over small areas to change the tone of the colour, OK get that. I gather that by the dilution the above is classed as "Thin" paint. Applying this logic to a kit does this mean that if I am applying a thin primer, it would be a similar dilution say 3 or 4 parts thinner to 1 part paint and so on for applying solid colurs like say a blue to the underside of an aircraft? And in doing so by applying more coats of this very dilute paint would then build the colour up to the intensity or tone that you require?
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Hi everyone, I am working on a 1/32 red arrows hawk and have so far found that the paint isn't covering particularly well. I have already given the parts a wash over with a small amount of washing up liquid and warm water to help the paint adhere but it hasn't worked. I have been looking for a not to expensive primer and have seen the humbrol grey primer, has anyone used it ? Cheers, Rick
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I finally want to try Mr Surfacer, often recommended by many people as a great product. I tried Hiroboy first, but they are out of stock. Yesterday I called into the Plymouth branch of Antics, and the first assistant I spoke to hadn't even heard of Gunze Sangyo or the "Mr" range of paint products... I go there very occasionally for a browse but I have to say they are usually very disappointing, and their prices aren't much cop either... Can anyone recommend a source for Mr Surfacer? Is the Tamiya aerosol similar product as good, or at least worth trying? Thanks, Tony
