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  1. Many thanks to eBay for the image.... Can anyone help with tips for paining Translucent white(ish) bottles and water tanks similar to the below I have to paint this on a grey plastic... Getting this "translucency" is very difficult... Many thanks in advance for any tips...
  2. I've almost completed my first model in over 25 years, the SH Kittyhawk 1a (just need to add the final pre-painted bits and pieces and open canopy) and my next project will be either a Spitfire (Eduard VIII) or Seafire (Sword IIc) so looking for some help please. I have raised this question in the Modelling Tips section previously but with limited response so hopefully this may have more joy as the main area I struggled with after all these years was the application of the camouflage scheme. This took for ever to do using thin rolled pieces of blu tak to mark out the scheme and then filling in the areas not to be sprayed using a myriad pieces of masking tape! It worked quite well but at this rate I'll be lucky to make 2-3 kits a year! I know that there are masking scheme products/masks available from a variety of manufacturers but having never used them I'm wondering if they would be a simpler and faster method for applying either the 'a' or 'b' scheme to my Spitfire/Seafire or are they also fraught with difficulties? Regards Colin.
  3. Dear All, I have just bought replacement Aires resin wheels for my Airfix Lancaster (the 1980's version) but have never used resin parts before so wanted to check if I need to do anything special to them before painting other than cleaning/degreasing as usual please? As for the wheels themselves they look spot on and superior to those in the kit although I gather those in the new kit are excellent. Also if anyone has any tips on how best to paint the wheels so that they look more realistic it would be appreciated as I normally paint them black and then add some dark-ish grey pastel dust to the main tread area to simulate wear but this still leaves the side walls looking rather unrealistic and far too black and matt in scale. Thank you and stay safe. Kind Regards Colin.
  4. I've been working on and off with these kits for months............................. I got the base colour done. Then the first gloss coat and decals. A somewhat in-expert dark pinwash followed a second gloss coat. Unfortunately, when I came to do the matt coat prior to weathering I selected an old tin of Humbrol matt (49). This tin now resides in the bin. Because, as you will see below, it isn't quite the finish I was looking for! Someone might say "that looks awwight" but to me they look like they've been left out in the frost. Question arises as to what comes next (apart from my initial thoughts about the plastic following the matt varnish). I've read about a further gloss coat with a repeat pinwash/matt coat being a possible remedy. As an alternative I wonder about finishing weathering them as they are and incorporating the "new markings" into the finished results. I think I read somewhere about everywhere in Normandy being ankle deep in fine light coloured dust that got everywhere. I don't really want to repaint them as I don't have any replacement decals. Any expert advice would be much appreciated, so thank you in anticipation.
  5. Dear All, Having perused many of the excellent recent builds of these two aircraft it makes me realise just how 'unrealistic' my efforts are when it comes to painting the exhaust manifolds as they still end up just looking like painted plastic. I'm not after any trade secrets, and I know that practice may eventually make perfect though sadly not true in this case, but can anyone share some basic tips on how I can get them to look as if they are actually made from metal and far more like the real thing please? Apologies if this has been raised in a previous thread/topic. Kind Regards Colin.
  6. I got these figures in a Warhammer magazine that is being sold in Australia now,I do like some Warhammer figures and have painted some in the past,it's their price in Australia that stops me from buying more,but these were in the first issue and cheap,(my favorite price),I may pick up the next two issues and then it will be a wait and see.I changed the head on 2 Sequitor figures and a new weapon for another,the other 10 Chainrasp's look Cool,they do give you 11 in the pack but with a part missing,being one not to waste anything I made this one up on a gravestone and gave it a left hand from my spares box,it's the last figure in these pics. Cheers Jim.
  7. Hallo again This time with an F-15A from the IAF. The same kit my husband finished a short time ago. Now I learned from him, and I got advice how to make it better. Together with present day regulations according Corona, I stay home and use this amount of time to focus on the paint job of my model. To understand it clearly: The hot area is the first area I focus on. Using the new SM colors from Mr. Hobby. I do not refer to them, read my husband’s blog please! I did nothing else as: Base colour is Titan for the hot area of the engine. Afterward masking panels one by one or in groups. I used highly diluted black for this purpose. One stroke, two or three, to create individual shades. It takes time to learn to understand what one stroke more with the airbrush causes. So I learn on a fuselage with base color in all SM colors. So I get a clue what the result will be. Anyway, the pictures include also the gun and nose area. This is just the beginning. Happy modelling
  8. Might be starting this in the near future. Took me a while to get hold of one at a good price, but a few months ago I finally got one. I also have the extra parts set that includes the parts for tanker and photo reconnaissance Valiants, but I'm not sure if I'm going to use it yet. I haven't decided which scheme she'll be painted in either yet. I know I don't want to do the photo reconnaissance scheme (silver and red) and I'm not keen on the all silver second prototype. So basically it's between the tanker in anti-flash white, two bomber schemes in anti-flash white, and the camo scheme depicting a bomber shortly before the Valiants were grounded. I'll also be looking to pick up a micro mir 1/144 one at some point as 1/144 will be round 2 of my v bomber project (the Victor will be micro Mir's new Victor b1, and I'm hoping they will do a vulcan b1 soon). If anyone's got any Valiants they've built, please post pictures (or a link) here
  9. I'm just about to start a build that requires white SEAC recognition stripes on wings and tail, which I've never done before. My first impulse was to do things backwards, and lay down the white paint first, before masking it off and applying Dark Green and Dark Earth comouflage on top. This is of course unrealistic, and I see build logs in which folks do things the right way round, with the white applied on top of the camouflage. I'm worried about how many coats of white I might need to apply to get a good result, however - I don't want to obscure moulding detail or have a thick margin to my white stripes. Any tips?
  10. I have another question for my 2-pounder project, for those who may be able to help. I have the set of shells and spent casings from RB Models. I had intended to just use the spent casings, but the loaded shells themselves are so nicely-done it seems a shame to not use them as well. But my attempts to get a look at the colors of the shells (whether there were any steel bands on them, etc.) has turned up next to nothing. I tried a variety of Google queries but all I got were 17-pounder and 25-pounder examples. Any idea whether the rounds were just satin-ish black, or if there were any bands/stripes on them? Thanks in advance, Randy
  11. Hi guys, I am working on a 1/72 Special Hobby DH-100 Vampire FB52 - building it as a Mk6 of the Swiss air force. It's just the second 1/72 kit I build. I tried to build the instrument panel by using gloss black and white to paint individual gauges/instruments. What works quite well in 1/48 looks in 1/72 just wrong. Mainly the white gauges stand out too much looking not right. The only alternative I know of is either using decals or just painting the instruments with gloss black and putting a drop of clear color over it to simulate the glass covering the instruments. Any other ways of how to get a decent 1/72 instrument panel painted right? Using decals is not my preference but might be the easiest way to go.... Cheers, Michael
  12. Hi, I have purchased the Revell Dream Liner kit ex Zvezda, and having never built a civil airliner in my life I would like to know if anyone has any hints on the best way to go about getting a good result. I'm not a novice by any means but have never built this type of model. I've got a set of after market Norwegian Airlines decals. I will be at Telford next weekend so I will be seeking out the SIG's and other civil airliner groups for answers to any question that arise. Thanks in advance Phill
  13. Bertiee

    New to priming

    Hello, I've made a few models and I've never primed anything. Not intentionally, I'm just inexperienced and wasn't aware it was something you should do. I was going to grab some spray paint to prime my models, but should I be priming everything? So by that I mean little details such as undercarriage components on an aircraft. Also can anyone recommend any (fairly inexpensive) primer? I've seen some people say that it doesn't really matter what you use as it's more about technique, but if I'm going to be buying some I might as well get something recommended! Thanks
  14. Hello Members Another noob question. I must say I did do a search, but the results were not helpful, so here is the direct approach. So I have the Spitfire kit, I have the Mr Color paints, the airbrush and mini compressor. What eludes me is the gloss varnish. I noticed the use of Mr Color GX100, but it's not found in the UK (well at ridiculous cost!). I noticed the arguments are many for and against the use of Pledge floor varnish. So what do I use?
  15. Hi guys I'm currently working on a Revell/Zvezda 777 and a 747-8. Do you have any suggestions on how to paint the fanblades? They are overall black with a thin silver front edge. How would you paint the edge? Seems to be quite a challenge to get it right. Thank you and best regards Stefan
  16. Hi guys, I am intending to use Alclad for an NMF paint and heard that it requires a coat of some kind of micro filler first and then good sanding down of it. Can someone help me out which tools are best for this and how to it right? Thanks in advance. Cheers, Michael
  17. Good day all, I'm just about to start my second model and I've been reading the forums to try to figure out in what order to do things while building a model. However ... it seems that there are a number of ways of doing things and a multitude of techniques and products. So for us new or returning to the modelling game I'd like to see if we can produce something like a modelling 101 ... the basics. Sticking with things more readily available in your local HobbyCraft, for example, is one way to get people started and to a good finish on a model without being overwhelmed by the options out there. So ..... Here's where I'm at before I start my next model. Can some of you more experienced modellers (most of you lol) help guide me through my thinking and advise on where I'm missunderstanding various steps. Step 1 - Priming. I'm using Humbrol Enamel Paints on Airfix kits. Is priming needed or will the enamel paints adhere well to clean plastic? Step 2 - Painting detailed parts. As stated I'm starting with Humbrol Enamel paints. Shaking the paints to death seems to be needed a lot but does work. I'm applying the paint by hand with various brushes but how many coats of enamel should be needed ? Also if the paint seems to be running a little thin is this just a case of needing to shake a little more ? Avoiding painting the surfaces where glue is to be applied is also a must or components won't fit. Step 3 - Assembly. I've worked out that glasswork needs to be added after the exterior painting is completed so the bits under the glasswork are the right colour. So slow assembly of the model needs to take place. Humbrol filler can be used to fill in any imperfections in the joins and then smoothed off. Fine emery boards are good for smoothing away the bits left after removing the parts from the mouldings. Step 4 - Paint glasswork Step 5 - Coat glasswork in Humbrol Clear Step 6 - Add glasswork decals Step 7 - Again coat glasswork in Humbrol Clear to seal Step 8 - Paint assembled bodywork Step 9 - Seal bodywork with Humbrol Clear Step 10 - Apply decals Step 11 - Seal decals with Humbrol Clear Step 12 - Apply weathering effects using weathering powders watered down with some Humbro thinners. Build up effect slowly and wash down with thinners and a cotton bud. Step 13 - Have a coffee Now the above is where i'm currently at as a basic walk through on how to get your modelling restarted but I'm open to comments and suggestions. I'll also try to add the next build into the work in progress thread so I can pick up advice along the way. I'm trying to keep things simple but effective for starters so if I'm way off on something then please let me know. Would appreciate the help/advice Thanks Dave.
  18. Hi, I've seen lots of amazing finished projects on here where the tiny gap and rivets are highlighted by dark paint? How do I do this?
  19. Painting Guide For AFV of WWII and Modern Era Jose Luis Lopez Ruiz - Casemate UK It has been a while since this reviewer switched from AFV modelling to aircraft. I found I could never really achieve the results I wanted, and this was in those pre-internet days of long ago. I do wish there had been books like this then. The book is what I would describe as medium/large format in an A-4 portrait sized book with a soft cover. There are 82 high quality pages. The printing is excellent through out, with clear text and great photographs illustrating the various techniques. Jose Luis Lopez Ruiz is a world renowned Spanish modeller who is a major contributor to The Steelmaster Magazine. He is a very talented modeller who has spent years developing his own techniques. In this publication we are introduced to his "Black & White" technique which has to be seen to be believed. As well as explaining the "Black & White" technique the book covers; Primers Layering Paints (Enamel & Acrylic) Washes Varnishes Pigments Primers The second half of the book then show cases five builds from WWII and the modern era to demonstrate the techniques discussed earlier. The photographs are clear and the text is concise. A gallery of completed models completes the book. Conclusion This is a great learning guide from a top class modeller. While you might not stick to one specific technique as shown, the book provokes thought as to how the individual modeller might make use of the techniques on show to finish their own model. Highly recommended, it might even spark the reviewer into making AFVs again! Review sample courtesy of
  20. I am new to Britmodeller and I am hoping to get constructive criticism on the kits I have built and painted so far. I need to work out how to post the pictures on here but I have been doing this for about a year and a half and I enjoy it very much. I lost my son in an accident almost two years ago and I fell into this hobby as a means of distraction, little did I know how much it would take hold of me. So,please be honest and constructive. I am hoping to improve my skills and maybe one day enter competitions. Thank you
  21. My next project is going to be the AMT USS Enterprise NCC-1701-E from Star Trek Nemesis. I got this kit several years ago and assembled the kit without painting. It has been sat on the top of my bookcase gathering dust. As I have completed my Type 45 destroyer and Sea King helicopter, I am going to paint this kit. Luckily, I had not glued the engine nacelles and pylons into place, so I have been able to mask up all of the clear parts in preparation for painting. Photos will follow of this painting project as I go along.
  22. Here is my finished Christmas present that my fantastic boyfriend bought for me. I love the novel and have studied it at A Level and now I teach it to my GCSE students. I enjoyed this kit, it was VERY easy to build and went together easily. My favourite thing is figure painting so the building part is necessary but not my favourite pastime. I am pleased with the finished result and, if I was to do it again, I would consider doing a black and white version which would be tricky but interesting.
  23. I'm now getting back into the hobby after a 30+ year absence, and I need to replace my old dried up Humbrol Enamel tinlets, and wanted to go the Acrylic route. Are the Xtracrylix range ok for hand brushing?
  24. Hello modellers I have been using an airbrush for about 3 months now and I am loving the experience. BUT, recently I have had some trouble with it (splattering and such) it has worked (for me) very well in the past but I am looking at purchasing a better quality airbrush that ins't overly expensive but still decent quality. (so maybe not H&S, Iwata, etc) Any recommendations? P . S I use windex and various other products that contain ammonia.
  25. I've been reading the build reviews in several modelling mags & it often refers to 'dry brushing', especially when talking about finishing a section e.g. a cockpit. What is dry brushing? Surely when you dip a brush in paint it becomes wet (or am I just being a bit thick here?!). Perhaps it's using a dry pigment like ground up pastel or a weathering powder. Can someone please enlighten me. Thanks, Andrew (Currently saving up for a compressor so I can use my airbrush properly & finish the 1/72 Airfix Sabre that's all built, pending painting. May have to start my Airfix 1/72 Vulcan while I wait)
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