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Hi, I've asked for an airbrush for my birthday, a Badger one of some description (I'm sure I can find it if it matters. I'm planning on using it for some Airfix tank models and a Spitfire. I do have some previous experience with models,although I've only done about 8 before. I was just wondering how much I should thin my paints for use in the airbrush. I'm planning on using Humbrol acrylic paints (they do say that they can be thinned for airbrushing, but they don't say how much I should thin it). Also, would water be sufficient for thinning? If so, any advice on what amount of paint to water I should use would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

For my Scarab... 50s/60s, and often later until the military was sold off to the civi contractors, RAF or RN vehicles were generally blue (obviously save for specials and frontline eg RAFG). Best Revell, Humbrol or Tamiya (possibly Vallejo if stocked)? Would love 100% accuracy but won't be mixing %s so will take a 'very close'. ... VMT. D.

Found this, might be of interest to some members, especially the date and the endorsers: War Office Adopts "Cellon." We understand from the Cellon Co., 49, Queen Victoria Street, that the War Office has adopted Cellon for use on some of the Army aeroplanes. Messrs. S. F. Cody, A. V. Roe, and L. Howard Flanders have all commented favourably upon the dope, which it is claimed tightens the fabric, and makes it proof against air, water, petrol, and oil, and impervious to atmospheric changes. - Flight, 6 July 1912, Page 622.

Hi All, I am very much a novice at airbrushing and learning has been a very steep curve for me. I am very pleased that I started on Tamiya Acrylics as they were/are very forgiving and meant that, for me, very little frustration with clogging and tip drying etc so that I could concentrate on technique. However, moving on, I find Tamiya's range of colours limiting, particularly when it comes to the RLM colours, so finding the Italeri Acrylic Luftwaffe set I was over the moon. After purchasing them my joy soon turned to frustration. I could not get them to airbrush nicely, constantly clogging and spitting, a real disaster! So I researched on the net and low and behold, from the little I found, I was really messing up using alcohol as a thinner (assuming it was the same as the Tamiya paint). So here is what I have learnt over what has been a number of months of pure frustration. 1. Never use alcohol to thin or clean your airbrush (if you clean it with alcohol make sure it is perfectly clean of any alcohol residue, even the smallest trace will cause your tip to block) 2. Some people say that they use windex or other window cleaner to thin the paint. I cannot say that I have had any luck with it and the tip either clogs or the paint dries on it. 3. Use distilled water to thin and clean your airbrush. As I mentioned the slightest contaminant will cause issues. (but you can use them without thinning. It looks really thick but seems to airbrush fine) 4. While not as forgiving as the alcohol based acrylics (and I would recommend absolute beginners to start with the likes of the Tamiya offerings because of this) once mastered they airbrush very nicely with next to no odour and very little aerosoling making them ideal for the home hobbyist. 5. They are not as robust as enamel or alcohol based paints so a good coat of varnish is a must before too much handling. Thanks for taking the time to read this and, of course, this is what worked for me. I hope that this can help others out there that may be struggling with these paints and cannot figure out why. Although I have never used Vallejo paints, I understand they are the same as the Italeri so the above should work equally well with them. Once again thanks for looking and any comments or tips are greatly appreciated. Shane

Brand New Vallejo Paints Coming soon. Including the First Water-Based Metallic Colours Water - Based Aluminium Colours Metal Colours Metal Colour is a range of 18 water- based metallic colours, especially designed for airbrushing. In the development of this new and innovative range, the latest generation of aluminium pigments has been used in a specifically designed formula to produce colours of exceptional resistance and adherence to plastics and metal. Can be applied directly on models without the need for the use of a primer, although in the case of fuselages and components for airplane models it is recommended to first apply a glossy Black Primer to bring forth the unique and special quality of the aluminium finish. Packaging: In 32ml. bottles with a flip-top/dropper closure. 71187 Old and New Wood Effects (by Scratchmod) Model Air This Colour Set with 8 acrylic colours of 17ml bottles includes step by step instructions designed to help the modeller in creating new wood and old grey-silver weathered wood effects. The wood colours can be used for fences, boxes, crates, and tool handles, etc. The old wood colours will help replicate much older and more weathered wood. 72302 Non Death Chaos (by Angel Giraldez) Game Colour New presentation of our set Non Death Chaos, now including detailed step by step painting instructions with photographs by Angel Giraldez. The set contains 8 Game Colours for painting the miniature figures of the ghosts, zombies, monsters, vampires, demons and other malignant creatures of the night. 72865 Face Painting (by Angel Giraldez) Game Air This set contains 8 Game Air airbrush ready colours, 4 of which have been developed especially for this set. Includes detailed step by step painting instructions by Angel Giraldez and photographs showing the process of painting male and female faces. Game Air: 4 New Colours The colours in the range have been selected in collaboration with modellers specialized in fantasy figures and dioramas, and the existing colours in the Game Air range have been taken into particular consideration. The names and shades of the most popular colours of Game Colour have been maintained in Game Air, using the formulation and resins employed for Model Air (see Equivalency Table below). In the colour chart we include a diagram of the most frequent colour combinations: base colour, light and shadow. 71155 US NAVY & USMC Colours from 70’ to present Model Air Model Air colours developed on the basis of intensive research and precise colour matching with the Federal Standard 595 colour specifications. The sets include the colours for the aircraft profiles and camouflage patterns drawn by Mark Rolfe. With the collaboration of “Pieza a Pieza Modelling Workshop”. The set with 8 Model Air colours is developed to paint the colour schemes of most of the US NAVY and USMC aircraft in service since the seventies to the present. 71156 USAF Colours “Grey Schemes” from 70’s to present Model Air Model Air colours developed on the basis of intensive research and precise colour matching with the Federal Standard 595 colour specifications. The sets include the colours for the aircraft profiles and camouflage patterns drawn by Mark Rolfe. With the collaboration of “Pieza a Pieza Modelling Workshop”. The set with 8 Model Air colours, is developed to paint low visibility grey colour schemes (“Hill”, “Mod Eagle”, “Ghost”, etc.) of the USAF aircraft from the seventies to the present. 71164 Luftwaffe Maritime and Tropical Colours Model Air RLM (Reichs Luftfahrt Ministerium) colours with new formulations, revised on the basis of an extensive study and review of the exact shades of the available documentation and most recent bibliographic. The new RLM sets include profiles of the aircraft by Mark Rolfe, showing the various RLM colour combinations used in the camouflage patterns, as well as information about their application and purpose. With the collaboration of the “Pieza a Pieza Modelling Workshop”. This set with 8 Model Air colours is developed for the painting of Luftwaffe camouflage patterns developed for aircraft in maritime deployment (hydroplanes, bombers and reconnaissance, etc.) as well as for the colours used for any type of aircraft operating in the North African campaign and the Mediterranean zone starting in 1941. * These new sets replace earlier versions and include in some cases new colours. 71165 Luftwaffe Pre-War to 1941 Model Air RLM (Reichs Luftfahrt Ministerium) colour with new formulations, revised on the basis of an extensive study and review of the exact shades of the available documentation and most recent bibliographies. The new RLM sets include profiles of the aircraft by Mark Rolfe, showing the various RLM colour combinations used in the camouflage patterns, as well as information about their application and purpose. With the collaboration of the “Pieza a Pieza Modelling Workshop”. This set with 8 Model Air colours is developed for camouflage patterns of any type WWII Luftwaffe aircraft previous to the WWII and the Spanish Civil War (Condor Legion), as well as for the campaigns and initial phases of the conflict in Poland, Northern Europe, and the battles of France and England. 71166 Luftwaffe Colours 1941 to End-War Model Air RLM (Reichs Luftfahrt Ministerium) colours with new formulations, revised on the basis of an extensive study and review of the exact shades of the available documentation and most recent bibliographies. The new RLM sets include profiles of the aircraft by Mark Rolfe, showing the various RLM colour combinations used in the camouflage patterns, as well as information about their application and purpose. With the collaboration of the “Pieza a Pieza Modelling Workshop”. This set with 8 Model Air colours is developed for camouflage patterns of all Luftwaffe models of fighters (single engine, heavy and night fighters) starting in 1941, as well as the colours employed towards the end of the war (1944-45) on the latest models of interceptors, and on the revolutionary new jets and latest model aircraft. * These new sets replace earlier versions and include in some cases new colours. 26007 + 26008 Front Stand + Corner Stand 26007 - Front Stand: The perfect solution for storing Vallejo colours. This model has space for 52 bottles of Model colour in 17ml size, together with 8 bottles of 35 or 60 ml, and 22 brushes. Easy assembly, does not require glue. Size: Length 13.4” (34cm), Width 8.75” (22.3cm) and Height 4.3” (11cm) 26008 - Corner Stand: The perfect solution for storing Vallejo colours. This corner model has space for 28 bottles of Model Colour in the 17ml size, together with 16 bottles of 35 or 60 ml one 200ml bottle and 26 brushes. Easy assembly, does not require glue. Size: Length 10.6” (27cm), Width 10.6” (27cm) and Height 4.3” (11cm) 75005 The Rise of Fantasy by Juan J. Barrena (JJ) A practical guide and introduction to the creation of fantasy scenes. this book contains step by step instructions on how to paint a figure and transformation of the figures, as well as the composition of the backgrounds, with points on highlighting the various elements of the composition, and on the portrayal of water, land, wood and rusted metal and general scenery.

Greetings fellow modelers. This is my first posting here and I am just full of questions. So I am hoping some of you will be able to help me with a few small matters. Painting. I have built a few models before so I have a small amount of experience with Testors enamels. Always had good luck with those. Now I have acquired a large scale model (revells big tub roadster) which shows everything all the time. So I want this paint to be the best I can do. I was told by many to use Tamiya spray primer(I choose gray as the color of the car will be dark blue.) I know you should try to use all the same type or kind of paint. So I picked up some Tamiya acrylic(do they make enamels?) I primed a spare part I do not need for the version I am building and it turned out well. Tried to brush it with the bottle paint in black..didn't turn out so well. seemed very rough when done. Thought maybe wet sanding it will do the trick to make it smooth as with the primer. I was not happy with the end result. Do I need to thin it? I know I should also be using a brush meant for acrylic paints. I assume that whatever I do to say the body I need to do to all other pieces of the car, say like engine parts as well. rough up..primer..2 mist coats one heavy then wet sand. then paint with color in the same fashion. layers and then wet sand. I have grits from 400 to sand off high spots up to 12000 and liquid polish to or can I just rough and paint with color with no need to prime first on the small stuff? Some parts I have to brush paint with more than one color on one piece and some I have to mask off and spray..I am using body filler on many things so I am sure I will have to primer those pieces no matter what their size. which brings me to my next question. The chrome parts. do I need to primer these(chrome parts without body filler) as well before painting them? I do not think I will see a need to paint all the chrome other than for matching purposes so if I need to paint a piece simply to match does it need to have all the chrome taken off..primed..sanded..then painted. or just scuff it good and spray it? Any and all help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Immalion

We have now got in the Four New Vallejo Game Air Colours. Vallejo 72769 - Flesh Vallejo 72770 - Burned Flesh Vallejo 72771 - Barbarian Flesh Vallejo 72772 - Red Terracotta The colours in the range have been selected in collaboration with modellers specialized in fantasy figures and dioramas, and the existing colours in the Game Air range have been taken into particular consideration. The names and shades of the most popular colours of Game Colour have been maintained in Game Air, using the formulation and resins employed for Model Air (see Equivalency Table below). In the colour chart we include a diagram of the most frequent colour combinations: base colour, light and shadow.

Good Morning, I have just taken delivery of the Dragon Conquerer Mk2. This is my first AFV kit which seems very easy to build, i would have hoped for a metal main armament, and the tracks although they look well detailed remind my of the rubber bands of my youth. ( i am now 60 and returning to the hobby) I believe that the paint in service during the 60's was a gloss dark green called Bronze Green. 1, is this correct? 2, Who produces the colour? Probably been discussed before, but i couldn't find it. Regards Graham. ( new boy in town ).

I think I might know the answer to this, but it is Monday.......... I have some Tamiya paints, the acrylics ones plus I have some Tamiya thinner. I know that people have used IPA to thin the paints but would it be possible to use Lighter Fluid instead? Or is like many paints, Tamiya paints works best with Tamiya Thinner? Cheers

Hello there, I am looking for RAF 512 Squadron C-47 paint scheme layout and colors. Circa 1944. KG330. If anyone has any links or any info that would me much appreciated! I have found one picture but of not the whole aircraft. http://www.vintagewings.ca/Portals/0/Vintage_Stories/News%20Stories%20K/Twice%20Lucky/TwiceLucky36.jpg It will be used for a 1/32 Guillows kit

Hi everyone, Looking at doing this one in the next little while. I've seen several sources going for blue as the fuselage colour but keep coming back to CDL myself. There is a good quality print of it in 'King of Air Combat' but no mention of potential colours. If anyone has any ideas I'd be grateful.

Building and creating a loaded dragon wagon, what colour is best for the tyres, prefer tamiya paint for this. Also building oob and in parts I will be able to post to Bahrain, to meet me at my next ship, to continue building and painting in an attempt to finish in 2 months

Guys I'm looking for guidance on painting the pilot that comes with with the kit ( Revell Bf 109F-4 1/32 ) has anybody got any photo's of previous builds or colour guidance , any help or guidance welcome :-) Many thanks

Hello again! Since I have plans to build some airliners after Christmas, there is one question I have... and that is: What do I do with windows? I don't think the kits that I'll be making come with the plexiglass inserts for the windows. I do not want to fill them up because that would mean I'd have to buy window decals which costs more £££. I am planning on leaving them open, as this will also make painting easier. However, I still want the plane to look nice and dont want my modelling dignity to leak out the windows ( ), so maybe covering the windows from the back or something? So just dump all your ideas on me for airliner windows that doesn't involve filling them. Has anyone tried leaving the windows just the way they are? If so, what is your opinion on open windows? [FYI: I have done some background reading, but I'm still a noob infront of y'all ] Thanks in advance, Hamdhan

Dear admin, This post was made by mistake, please delete it Hamdhan.

A little while ago someone put on here links to a cheap perspex nail varnish rack that looked like they might be suitable for paints. Unfortunately they weren't, but being dirt cheap, no problem. I have now purchased a couple of these : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NAIL-POLISH-DISPLAY-STAND-HOLDS-APPROX-70-BOTTLES-HIGH-QUALITY/321210283070?_trksid=p3693.c100102.m2452&_trkparms=aid%3D333008%26algo%3DRIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140212121249%26meid%3D000e4588aab442b08463160a16962d1b%26pid%3D100102%26prg%3D20140212121249%26rkt%3D4%26 which arrived yesterday. Have to say well impressed. Just big enough to get my Tamiya bottles in which are the biggest I have. NOt cheap, but still reasonable and looks a bit neater than the CNC ply ones I was originally considering.

This is my first post here on brimodeller and im fairly new to modelling (just finished a airfix starter) and im getting a 1/48 model soon but im wondering what paint brand to use for acrylic but i dont have an airbrush and will not be getting one soon so what brand is good for brush painting acrylics oh and if you dont mind answering are humbrol brushes good

Topic title lost on non Spinal Tap fans I would think (here if interested) but in essence I want to do the opposite to the black refered in the clip. I have read that, in scale, black is rarely true black. I want to paint a Tucano in black and, given the scale arguement, wonder what the best proprietry black or mix to use would be? Cheers

Can anyone please help with a paint guide for the Tamiya 1.35 US military miniatures , the item No on the box is 35048 . The paint guide is in Japanese and I could do with an English version

I've recently started airbrushing for the first time. After a few failed attempts with Humbrol paints I decided to give "Vallejo Model Colour" a try. Using the Vallejo Primer and thinners I seem to be getting fairly good results and I am happy. So when looking online to further my range of Vallejo paints I noticed they do "Vallejo Model Air", which is a range of paints designed specifically for airbrushing. And this has left me thinking do I buy more "Model Colour" or try "Model Air" Has any one tried these before, if so what is your opinion of them? Would you recommend one type over another? Is there one which is a good all rounder, i.e. For brushing and for air? And does anyone have any other tips or tricks for these paints? Many thanks!

Hi Has anyone tried spraying Zero paints 2K Clear over Tamiya TS Spray and if so what kind of results did you get. I have recently started using the 2K clear from zero with their own paint and the results are excellent but I would like to try it over Tamiya TS spray cans (decanted and airbrushed) as I have tons of cans of the stuff. Many Thanks, Jay.

Hello everyone! I've been doing some 1/1 scale modeling on my home lately so my smaller scale projects are waiting, mostly Heinkel He 111 that I started.. :] But the problem is I can't keep my hands off of some plastic so I decided I should do a quick and simple build, and my build of choice is Stearman Kaydet by Revell, 1/72 scale.. :] Now, I need your help! What I would like to know is what kind of weathering, exhaust stains, mud splashes, paint chipping and general extended usage deterioration could one see on one of these planes back in the day when they were extensively used? I wouldn't mind overdoing it a little bit, just as long as it is in correct places.. Any photos you may have, suggestions, anything would be helpful! :] Also, many pictures on the internet show the different propeller color/material..I'm guessing the original used was wooden, and the later restorations feature metal propellers? Anyway, type in question is N2S, known as the "Yellow Peril", with the tail number/registration as shown on the picture below.. I'm not sure where and on what kind of runway this particular unit was used, maybe that could be a factor in deciding proper weathering too.. Any help is very appreciated! :]

Hello! I am about to order some paints for my Tamiya 1/35 Stug IV. I have found a nice site i want to order paints from, and i see alot of humbrol paints. I am going to make it with the original gray paint that was used on the panzers when they were out of the factory, but i don't know what the name of the paints i need are named. Could anyone help me out with which i need? I looked at the paint pattern in the instructions, but i don't want it dark yellow. And i'm going to use a normal paintbrush. Thanks in advance - Robin

Having recently returned to model building after many years I'm very interested in the advances that have been made in detailing and finishing of kits. In the painting arena I'm taken with the whole idea of the oil wash to bring out detail but can't shake off the art and decorating training that says oil and water-based paints don't like each other much. In particularly I'm intrigued by the order in which one applies the oil wash to a model. It seems that many people add this wash after decalling but do you then go on to apply a finish coat, say a matt one, after the wash? If the paints are acrylic and the final coat is acrylic how does it react with the oil? My knowledge of paints says that acrylic should not be applied over oil. What do you do? Perhaps the thinning of the oil prevents it being too sticky and most of it is in the panel lines etc but it seems to me any residue will undermine a topcoat that is water-based. What's the general experience in the application order of the finishing coats? Cheers.

Hi guys, I'm currently working on a Tamiya model which requires MS-9 and MS-10 paints, which are fluorescent orange and yellow and cannot find them anywhere! I have seen these colours in the PS range of sprays they do, which are designed for the polycarbonate shells on their RC models. I'm wondering if they will be a suitable substitue? Thanks in advance and apologies if this is a rehash of an old thread!