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I'm not sure if anyone will be interested in this but… A couple of years ago I noticed that colours/shades on the Tamiya lids and paint charts didn't match the actual paint. So I used strips of plastic card to spray each colour to get an accurate swatch. It was a long BORING job, but it was well worth, it as I refer to it on almost every build I do. Out of interest, yesterday I superimposed the colour shown on a Tamiya paint chart, with a scan of my colour swatch. Admittedly, my monitor is not colour calibrated, but the differences shown, match my experiences of matching the paint lids with the colour on the model. As you can see, the only exact matches are black, white and XF-12. Some are quite close, but the majority are well off. Does anyone know why this is the case?

Looking for a bit of guidance and tips on how best to mark of a nose cone requiring a different colour paint, particularly as in my Tornado, when the paint change doesn't follow panel lines! I tried using a rubber washer which when I finally managed to get it properly in place was OK, but didn't give the hard edge wanted. Tried to cut a circular hole in a piece of plasticard which was better, but again didn't get a hard enough edge as the nose isn't properly circular. Next was masking off the soft edge a bit to tidy up, but even with curve tape was far from satisfactory as ended up with a couple of kinks to the line edge. Pointers / hint gratefully received!

Just in today, Meng Individual paints, £2.25 each http://www.modellingtools.co.uk/meng-single-acrylic-paints-385-c.asp More new products to add in the next few days.... Thanks, Paul

One of those age-old questions I imagine Which colours or mixes would best match the CARC sand applied to OIF vehicles (2003 onwards)? I have Tamiya Buff, Desert Yellow, Deck Tan and Wooden Deck Tan, as well as Vallejo Model Air Sand. I tried the Sand, and while I've had issues with my airbrush recently, sprayed or brushed, it almost looks too...yellow. Like there's a pale yellow tint to it; if I were to best describe it, it almost looks similar to Walls vanilla ice cream. It doesn't seem to match either the faded appearance of some vehicles I've seen, or the newer coats, which look darker. The Vallejo Sand paint also seems to be slightly satin. As an alternative, what would be a good mix of Tamiya paint for the scheme? I know people mention the Model Master paint as the best match, but I don't have access to it, nor do I use enamels for spraying. Cheers in advance. Gaz P.S. As I understand it, Gunze-Sangyo H313 is said to be a match for the FS number for CARC Sand. However, I'm not very familiar with GS paints. Is the Aqueous line the acrylic one? I ask because on emodels this paint is named as Aqueous, but lacks the 'H' in front of the number, which I gather defines it as acrylic. Should it indeed be the acrylic version, and if I was to purchase, would I be able to use distilled water or Tamiya X-20A to thin it for airbrushing? I only ask because buying up new bottles of thinner for one pot would likely turn me off the idea, lol.

Long story short, I have not had an enjoyable day of modelling. My new airbrush+compressor, bought to replace my previous one that had started acting up, turned out to be even worse both in the compressor and the airbrush (low power spray, spitting, popping from the brush) despite being the exact same make and model. Shaken my confidence in my airbrush (even a new one) to perform as expected. To make matters worse, when I finally got a bit of painting done, two things happened. I recently purchased two pots of Tamiya Flat Black since I was always running out. In using the first one, not only did the new airbrush seem to eat up more paint than it spat out, but I got weird wet sploches throughout. After switching over to the other pot, an even worse result occurred. Bear in mind this is FLAT Black, it came out looking like Gloss Black. It dried as a Gloss as well. Capping off the day was a bottle of Vallejo paint that was unbelievably tedious to use and spray. Ordinarily I never have any problems with Tamiya paints other than a bit of spitting when I use white, but this was truly unbelievable. I can't tell if the paint has been mislabeled or what. Both pots were thinned in the same way as all previous pots of black have been. Airbrushing used to be quick and easy for me, but since mine went on the blink I've been stalled. Today was supposed to be a glorious return with maybe an hour of work, but turned into a 6-hour nightmare While many people swear by Vallejo, I'm less than impressed with this bottle of Model Air. I just wish Tamiya would add some new colours to their range...and not put gloss paint in a matt pot. Anyone had similar troubles with Tamiya? Gaz

Hello I have been trying to get a bottle of Tamiya Panel Line Accent brown or black here in the UK but with no luck. Is there an alternative to this for highlighting panel lines?

I know this topic has been aired before, but it wasn't dealt with in a particularly conclusive manner. I'm looking at painting an X-20 Dynasoar, which had an all-black thermal paint scheme, similar to the SR-71, at least for our purposes, and was wondering how best to go about it. Would it be a case of praying it flat back and then layering it up with enough Klear to support decals, then bringing it back down with flat varnish? Or are there more elaborate ways that people can recommend? TIA.

Hi all, I was wondering if I could get some help concerning the colours for some RAAF aircraft? I mainly use Vallejo Model Air paints with my airbrush because of how well they flow so it would be nice to find equivalents for the foliage green, the dark earth they used and what ever colour the underside was. If your are wondering the aircraft I'm looking to get is a Beaufighter, Wirraway and a Boomerang Thanks in advance, Cam

My fellow modellers, As a predominantly brush painter, does anyone know what colour blues are used to paint the Japanese F2? I prefer Humbrol, but if you know any brands / numbers they will be usefull Many thanks

Hello to all the gear heads! I'll come right out and explain that I'm rookie to model automobile building, but not modeling overall (airplanes mostly). I know where to go to get all my other supplies, but need a guide to where the cool car stuff is, and where the DEALS are, too. Having done a crash course of research and kit acquisition I'm on the after market items now. My focus is narrow, "Le Mans" type racing sports cars from the 60s. Here are my questions: 1) What type of PE harness(es) do I need for this era of car (Ferrari, Jag, Corvette, GT40, Porsche) 2) These cars are festooned with little lights on the body around the numbers. Surely these are available aftermarket, right? 3) What's the best acrylic paint (can or bottle) for the metallic British Racing Green for the Jag). Any other suggestions and hints will be appreciated. TIA!!

Hi, I recently found a compressor and two airbrushes. The airbrushes are Badger 200NH and Badger 155 Anthem. Currently I only have access to Revell Enamels in the little 14ml cans. So I was wondering whether it's possible to thin them down enough with whitespirit (Seems like I have an infinite supply of it haha), to be able to use them with the airbrushes.

Seeking help, perhaps from maritime and/or aircraft modellers: My current project, just commencing, is Karaya's 1/48 Short Crusader Schneider Trophy racer. The aircraft is to be finished predominantly white. But there are whites & there are whites .. ! My research to date is triangulating down to a particular product. References, including technical journals of the time, identify the finish as 'gloss white enamel'; 'Rylard seaplane white'; 'Rylard white undercoat .. [and] white enamel'. I see Rylard is still trading today as a UK manufacturer of ship paints (no reference to seaplanes!). I could pursue them for a sample card of their white, but before hassling them I thought perhaps some britmodeller may already have confirmed an equivalent model paint match? Any assistance much appreciated! g.

I'm just back into modelling after a 2 1/2 year hiatus. I used to use the Ultimate Paint Conversion chart that was available at www.paint4models.com but it doesn't seem to be working. It was really good, but I don't know if it was being maintained. If it is now defunct, what is the best online colour conversion resource? I'm particularly keen on Humbrol to Vallejo, Humbrol to Tamiya and Humbrol to Mr Color. Thanks

Has anyone used loose glitter on paint for custom stuff? I want to give it a try using ulrafine craft glitter. i want a heavy scale metalflake (metallic) without using an actual autobody spraygun. I tried the one the glitter with the gel, but had to severely thin it down and flow it on a test body. It didn't flow evenly, so I figure the loose stuff might be better.

Hi All, I've taken the plunge and have ordered an Airbrush and Compressor. I now have to decide what paint to use while I'm learning to use this new tool. I'd prefer to stick with a single brand to avoid any potential compatibility issues between paints, thinners and cleaners. I'd also prefer a brand that's reasonably readily available in Europe. I'll be spraying in a shed, rather than in the house, and have an extractor so strong smells aren't necessarily a deal breaker. Ease of use for a beginner and ease of clean up are high on my priority list. So what's your recommendation for primers, clear coats and colours? Is Vallejo a solid choice or should I be looking elsewhere?

Hey, I have been modelling for about 7 years now, but have never looked into getting an airbrush. I have quite a few large, American WWII bombers (B-29, B-17 and B-25) which all have a bare metal finish, so I need something to get a smooth paint finish which can cover a wide area in a relatively short amount of time. I am also planning on buying an A-10, AC-130, B-36 and a B-52 (you see the theme running ) I looked online this morning and saw that the best airbrush for beginners would be a Single-Action, Gravity-Fed, Internally-Mixed one. Now, all I need help on is deciding what nozzle size and needle is best for a large area (I don't really need a high precision one I don't think). I also need to know what air compressor and cleaning kit would be best. My budget is £50 (I know its low, but I'm broke and I don't even know if I'll be good with an airbrush xD), and it would be nice if the airbrush came in a set with a compressor and cleaning kit. I also saw both the Revell and Humbrol airbrush sets (Humbrol also do a canned air 'power-pack'), with Revell having an airbrush and a spray gun (what is the difference?). These look quite cheap, so I was wondering about any of you guys' views on them. Thanks ) P.S. I use both enamel and acrylic paints. I guess I need to thin them for airbrushing, so what should I use as a thinner. I'm guessing water for acrylic, then would it be just white spirit or turp for enamel?

Hi all, I am looking for the green colour for soviet wheel hubs. Now i know Hannants do one X628 but my question is does any one else? Does anyone know what an equivalent colour would be? korean

NEW FROM VALLEJO NOW IN STOCK Model Air Paint Sets. VAL71144 - RAF Colours Special Battle Of Britain This set has been developed for painting the RAF fighter aircraft which participated in the major air battle of all times, “The Battle of Britain”, from the beginning in July 1940 to the final phase or “Night Blitz” in May 1941. Model Air set with 8 colours developed on the basis of intensive research and precise colour matching with the Federal Standard 595 and British Standard Colours BS381C colour specifications. The sets include the colours for the air plane profiles and camouflage patterns drawn by Mark Rolfe. With the collaboration of “Pieza a Pieza. Paints Included VAL71323, VAL71404, VAL71324, VAL71057, VAL71302, VAL71126, VAL71009, VAL71305 VAL71145 - RAF Colours Bomber and Training Air Command 1939 - 1945 This set has been developed for painting all the bombers (light, medium and heavy) of the Bomber Air Command of the RAF from 1939 until the end of WWII. This set also includes “Trainer Yellow” which, combined with the other colours or by itself, can be used for most of the training aircraft and prototypes. Model Air set with 8 colours developed on the basis of intensive research and precise colour matching with the Federal Standard 595 and British Standard Colours BS381C colour specifications. The sets include the colours for the air plane profiles and camouflage patterns drawn by Mark Rolfe. With the collaboration of “Pieza a Pieza. Paints Included VAL71323, VAL71302, VAL71324, VAL71305, VAL71057, VAL71126, VAL71307, VAL71078 VAL71146 - RAF Colours SEAC (Air Command South East Asia) 1942 -1945 This set has been developed for the painting of all types of aircraft of the RAF in the SEAC (Air Command South East Asia) based in the British colonies in the Far East. Model Air set with 8 colours developed on the basis of intensive research and precise colour matching with the Federal Standard 595 and British Standard Colours BS381C colour specifications. The sets include the colours for the air plane profiles and camouflage patterns drawn by Mark Rolfe. With the collaboration of “Pieza a Pieza. Paint Included VAL71323, VAL71302, VAL71324, VAL71306, VAL71273, VAL71057, VAL71307, VAL71279 VAL71147 - FAA (Fleet Air Arm) Colours 1939 - 1945 This set has been developed for the painting of the aircraft of the Fleet Air Arm (FAA) of the British fleet, for land-based aircraft as well as for aircraft, British or American, embarked on carriers from 1939 until the end of the War. Model Air set with 8 colours developed on the basis of intensive research and precise colour matching with the Federal Standard 595 and British Standard Colours BS381C colour specifications. The sets include the colours for the air plane profiles and camouflage patterns drawn by Mark Rolfe. With the collaboration of “Pieza a Pieza. Paints Included VAL71110, VAL71407, VAL71309, VAL71302, VAL71405, VAL71057, VAL71406, VAL71279 VAL71148 - RAF Colours Coastal Command 1939 - 1945 This set has been developed for painting the aircraft of the RAF Coastal Command , for land based aircraft as well as for seaplanes, from 1939 until the end of the war. Model Air set with 8 colours developed on the basis of intensive research and precise colour matching with the Federal Standard 595 and British Standard Colours BS381C colour specifications. The sets include the colours for the air plane profiles and camouflage patterns drawn by Mark Rolfe. With the collaboration of “Pieza a Pieza. Paints Included VAL71323, VAL71302, VAL71324, VAL71306, VAL71110, VAL71057, VAL71309, VAL71279 VAL71149 - RAF Day Fighters Pre-War To 1941 This set has been developed for painting the RAF fighter camouflage scheme “Temperate Land” in its different colour combinations from the years before WWII (starting in 1937) and the beginning of the conflict in 1939, with the first battles in Norway, Netherland, France and England, until August 1941. The set also includes the colours for the “Shadow Compensation” colour scheme used in biplanes of all models and deployment. Model Air set with 8 colours developed on the basis of intensive research and precise colour matching with the Federal Standard 595 and British Standard Colours BS381C colour specifications. The sets include the colours for the air plane profiles and camouflage patterns drawn by Mark Rolfe. With the collaboration of “Pieza a Pieza. Paints Included VAL71323, VAL71302, VAL71324, VAL71279, VAL71291, VAL71057, VAL71403, VAL71062 VAL71162 - RAF Colours Day Fighters 1941 - 1945 & P.R.U. This set has been developed for painting the RAF day fighter aircraft from August 1941 until the end of the War, as well as the HF Interceptors (High Fighters). The set also includes the colours for the PRU (Photographic Reconnaissance Unit ) aircraft. Model Air set with 8 colours developed on the basis of intensive research and precise colour matching with the Federal Standard 595 and British Standard Colours BS381C colour specifications. The sets include the colours for the air plane profiles and camouflage patterns drawn by Mark Rolfe. With the collaboration of “Pieza a Pieza. Paints Included VAL71273, VAL71109, VAL71324, VAL71408, VAL71307, VAL71057, VAL71302, VAL71279 VAL71163 - RAF Colours Desert Scheme & M.T.O. 1940 - 1945 This set has been developed for the painting of all types of RAF aircraft with the colour patterns “Tropical Land Scheme”, “Desert Scheme”, “Special Coastal Scheme”, etc. from June 1940 until the end of the War, in North Africa and the Mediterranean theatre. Model Air set with 8 colours developed on the basis of intensive research and precise colour matching with the Federal Standard 595 and British Standard Colours BS381C colour specifications. The sets include the colours for the air plane profiles and camouflage patterns drawn by Mark Rolfe. With the collaboration of “Pieza a Pieza. Paints Included VAL71306, VAL71324, VAL71108, VAL71323, VAL71113, VAL71302, VAL71313, VAL71031. Follow us on Facebook for all the latest news https://www.facebook...eativeModelsLtd Check out the website for all new releases www.creativemodels.co.uk

Hi, I don't have any fancy airbrushes and paint by hand at the moment so wondered if anyone has any experience in painting models by hand and producing decent finishes with a pattern like this one below ? I'm stumped on how to begin but want to have a crack at it as I have the two models below in my stash waiting to be completed. Thanks in advance

Wasn't sure where to chuck this query so mods feel free to move it if you need to. I was reading through someone's thread a few weeks ago that happened to have a very good explanation of how to use kit decals as a guide to make masking templates for painting. I thought this was very useful and intended to note how it was done.....but I didn't......and now I cannot remember who or where the post was! Can anyone offer any advice or suggestions on how to go about this? I'm looking to create templates for the black exhaust areas and fuselage handhold area's on the sides of my Seaking HC.4 rather than using the decals provided in the kit. I'd be very grateful for any assistance with this, I'm sure it's pretty straight forward but me brain won't engage at the moment! Rgds, Eng

Hi folks, I'm part way through building Airfix's 1/72 Hawker Typhoon but I've come a bit unstuck when looking at what the best likeness of paint is for Ocean grey. I always paint in acrylics and whilst Airfix recommend Humbrol 106, I find that they're not the best for airbrushing as they can be a bit 'bitty' and not particularly smooth. I use a lot of Model Air and Revell Aqua so wondered if there's a good equivalent for those or any other brand that anyone can suggest. Really appreciate your help with this one as I would like to get the colour as near as dammit. Kind Regards Kris

Hello . In the midst of waiting for some thinners to arrive to continue my Y-Wing build, my thoughts wandered to an unfinished 1/35 Dragon M1A2 SEP I'd put in the garage. I still have all the parts for it (though it would probably take me a while to discover exactly what I put together and haven't) and I figured this might be a good opportunity to use some of my greater knowledge to fix it up and finish it. Part of that process is to repaint it with sprays, masking it off for the camo scheme. Currently, the main parts are done in tri-colour NATO, which I hand-painted from the jars. I'd like to redo it in the same scheme with spray cans at some point, but I'd also like to try and restart the painting completely by resetting to the bare plastic. The current paint layer is pretty thin so spraying over probably won't make much difference to detailing, but all the same...does anyone know of a plastic-friendly, easily obtainable means of stripping the paint? I've seen some suggesting IPA, but others say its difficult to obtain. Would these methods also fog up clear parts or affect the glue (that's partly degraded in some places, which was a bit of a happy flaw in the end )? Cheers in advance

Hi all. I've just picked up a Tamiya 1/35 M1A2 SEP TUSK II (hurricane of acronyms there ). Was meant to be for Christmas but...I can't wait that long Anyway. I read over on Armorama - specifically this article, http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=50656&page=1- about adding anti-slip surfacing to Abrams kits that lack it. The substance mentioned, Rust-Oleum Terracotta spray, seems to do the job quite well. Homebase apparently stock it, but I wondered if anyone else had tried it. The article is from an American modeller, and while the stuff at Homebase matches the name, it isn't mentioned as being textured in the description, so I wonder if it is exactly the same. If it lacked texture it would obviously be a little pointless Has anyone else used it, either on a model or for its intended purpose? Edit: I've recently spotted some of that Tamiya Tarmac texture paint. Anyone know if that would be suitable anti-slip stuff, or would it be too thick? Cheers, Gaz.

(Udate jan 13th This tank has officially been saved and is now available to view in the diorama 'Lost in France') Hmmmm. Brimming with confidence after my 1st build and diorama for many years, I immediately set about tackling Tamiya's 1/35th Churchill MkVII tank. All was going well. I had the turret, hull, wheels etc all assembled and then airbrushed base coats, oversprayed with dark green. Then I applied the decals. That's when things started going wrong. I used micro set solution. This left a satin sheen on the otherwise pristine finish. No matter, I thought. This will not show after a coat of matt varnish and all the weathering. Only, the matt varnish dried gloss. Now I know that in reality British AFVs painted dark green have tended to have a satin or even gloss finish (I'm thinking of the Saladin and Saracen in particular) so maybe I am being a bit picky, but I just HATE a gloss finish on models. And no amount of cleaning and soaking would get the blooming varnish off! So it looked as though the model was a 'binner'. Being a binner, and with nothing to lose, I wondered if I could scrape the varnish and paint off. A labourious and fiddly task. I did a test scrape, which worked, but to scrape a whole model? I have to confess something now... I am an old-school modeller, having been a school child when I last made models and as such, I still use enamel paints. Soaking an enamel-painted model in thinners doesn't do the plastic any good! So I decided not to bother. I thought some more, and figured that rather than bin it, I could use the Churchill as a piece of diorama scenery.... blow it up and tip it into a water-filled ditch. I could submerge a whole side of the tank in water, and only have to worry about 'fixing' the exposed surface. I could cover the whole thing in dried mud and hide a lot of it with bankside vegetation. So, today, I set about the task and attacked the model with 'dark earth weathering powder' applied in several washes of varying dilution and also applied 'dry' to wet surfaces. This has covered a lot of the 'glossy' patches, but not all. There are areas such as the side skirting and turret sides which still shine horribly (well, at least to my eye they do) More weathering powder will cover this up, I have no doubt, but I will end up with a tank ENTIRELY covered in mud. Still, it's better than nothing. Anyway, I am now wondering what I can do to 'fix' the 'dried mud'. Weathering powder comes off when handled too much, or rubbed with a brush and I'm not sure I want to risk another coat of the so-called matt varnish! Can anyone suggest the best thing to do now, and also what was my mistake in the first place? Using enamels, I've never bothered varnishing my models before. I just used to wet brush and dry brush them once the enamel was properly dry. Was I actually mistaken to varnish this model at all? Pics to follow shortly. Thanks, in anticipation, Badder.

Does anyone have a technique for successfully painting raise lettering in miniature? For example the Brembo on Brembo brake calipers or the Bosch on a Bosch Motronic ECU. I've racked my brain looking for a solution, but just can't think of a way of doing this, it's way too small to mask and I think I'll just screw it up by trying to hand paint.