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Found 9 results

  1. I read the Aston Martin DB9 build by @johnlambert recently with sympathy as this model has tested my patience and fortitude in much the same way, particularly since the end of February when my attention turned to the body, I'm a novice in the world of cars (three down and quite a few to go) and after lavishing a lot of time on the modifications to the drive train and interior, I was feeling on a roll but the shiny bits didn't want to play, for a bit more detail my in progress is here - Anyway, I have decided it's finished, (it's not, there are things I know need to be added but my enthusiasm for the model is currently running on empty) so I've taken some pictures, tidied the workbench and put it away in a box! As with every model it's a learning experience so one just needs to move forwards. Excuse the rather poor photographs, I have an ancient iPhone and it wasn't as sunny as I'd hoped. Anyway, all critique is welcome, it's not my best work so anything you say won't be anything I haven't thought myself. Onwards they say and a 1977 spec Tyrrell P34 is next across the bench. Dave
  2. My projects have been on hold for some time. Most of my hobby stuff is wrong side of the border and currently traveling is bit a problem. So I have supported my local hobby shop and purchase some basic things to continue modelling in second home. First project is Dornier Do-X in Otaki boxing. Same molds are use for Revell and Matchbox boxing's. Basically plastic looks good, better what I have seen in Revell box. Some basic information can be found from wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dornier_Do_X Only 3 planes were ever constructed and first plane was use after Dornier by Luft Hansa, but saw very little usage and was damaged in heavy landing. Two other planes went to Italy and were known X2 and X3, usage was there also limited. In the beginning plane was using 12 Siemens Jupiter that produced 525 HP, these were notice under powered and were replaced 12 Curtiss Conqueror 640 HP versions. Even with new engines plane was not a rocket. Italian versions use Fiat engines. I have only limited amount of reference material so mostly I need to trust internet sources. So here we have typical starting photos: Box itself, that have some water damage, Instruction sheet: Hull: Wings: Small parts: Engines: Clear parts: Decals that have suffered damage, but I think I can use these as a template: There was even glue included. I don't plan to use this Thanks for watching.
  3. Here’s my latest completion, Otaki’s aging F6F Hellcat kit in1/48. The subject is one of the first Hellcats that went to 800 Sqn FAA, HMS Emperor, and participated in the Royal Navy strikes against the Tirpitz, while she was anchored in Norway. This Hellcat accounted for 3 FW-190’s. The Otaki kits were great in their day, and still serve as a good basis for detailing and scratchbuilding. – Detailed gunsight, True details cockpit, scratchbuilt rear bulkhead and armour plate based on photos, replaced machinegun barrels, and exhaust with aluminum and brass tubing. – Canopy is Squadron vacuform with internal structure from plastic strip. – Removed and scratch built wheel wells from photos and plans, scratch built arrester hook and holdback, detailed landing gear, and thinned and corrected gear doors and actuators. – Rebuilt and corrected droptank as per photos. – Detailed engine and wired, added cowl inner structure and details, deepened intakes and added screen. – Added formation, ID, landing and nav lights with acrylic rod. – Painted with Tamiya acrylics, weathered (hairspray technique) with stiff brush and sharpened toothpicks, pastels and enamel paint. – Decals from Techmod, spares, and custom made. Hope you like, thanks for looking.
  4. This is Otaki's 1/48 FW-190A-8 that I originally started as just a 'paint mule' to try out a paint mix. One thing lead to another and, well, here you are. I added details to the cockpit, belts from aluminum tape and solder, and a scratch built gunsight. Bulged canopy is a spare from Hobbyboss, with scratchbuilt headrest and bulkheads. For the gear, I added a strip to the landing gear doors to widen them, shortened the legs and added brakelines, spare wheels from and Eduard kit, cut out the make believe gear well and added a spare 'dimpled' panel from Eduard's, and scratch built the rest of the well. Tailwheel is an Eduard's spare. Outboard lower canon breaches are spare bombs with plasticard shell chutes, and canon's are brass tube. Drop tank and mount are also Eduard's spares. Decals are spare Hobbyboss, old letraset applied to clear decal paper (to get close to the proper style, I had to use the top half of a '2' and the bottom half of a capitol 'L'), and the werke numbers are actually decal sheet item numbers made into decals by painting them with Microscale liquid decal film. Paints are Tamiya acrylics RLM 74 is XF 24:3, XF 27:1, and the RLM 75 is XF 75:8, XF 07:1 - the whole reason for the build! Applied over Tamiya Titanium silver and haispray, and then chipped with water and a toothpick. Hope you like. Just for comparison, here's Eduard's FW-190A-5, and the Otaki kit from the 1970's ... … and the 'Wulf' pack!
  5. Yamato, named after the ancient Japanese Province, was a battleship of the Imperial Japanese Navy. She was lead ship of her class. She and her sister Musashi were the largest, heaviest, and most powerful battleships ever constructed, displacing 72,800 tonnes at full load, and armed with nine 46 cm (18.1 inch) main guns. It carried 7 Nakajima E8N or Nakajima E4N aircraft. Ordered in March 1937, she was laid down on 4th November of that year, and was launched on 8th August 1940. She was commissioned on 16th December 1941. The ship held special significance for the Empire of Japan as a symbol of the nation's naval power ('Yamato' was sometimes used to refer to Japan itself), and its sinking by US aircraft in the final days of the war during the suicide Operation Ten-Go is sometimes considered symbolic of Japan's defeat itself. It was sunk, north of Okinawa, on 7th April 1945.
  6. Not sure if this is really fit for an RFI but... Bought the kit "slightly started" and "all parts believed to be there". Understatement on both counts. tail wheel, gear doors (4 parts out of 6) missing. Fuselage glued along with (seriously) bent tail. Wheel hubs missing. wings glued...oh the bullet type shape aft of the tail just gone. And broken arrestor hook... Anyway, for 7 quid you takes your chances. And I forgot to chop of 4.2mm from the wing tips so this is in effect an FAA machine in RNZAF wings..... Ho hum.... For some reason it would NOT take a wash (oil or MIG) - think it may be down to a very skimpy application of the gloss coat.... Still - I'll hide it at the back of the shelf - only swmbo and the dogs look at it - and I've already told the dogs that's how an FAA corsair SHOULD look..... (PS the paint around the canopy is still drying - honest!)
  7. Hello Everyone, I recently bought couple of kits that are missing their instructions and I was hoping someone might be able to help me. If anyone has a 1/8th Monogram 1978 Corvette or the Otaki/Doyusha 1/12th Pontiac Firebird Trans am, could you scan me a copy of the instructions please? The kits I have are pictured below, but the instructions for any later edition would be fine. Thanks for looking, Stuart
  8. Well, here is another one off the bench. Manufacturer: Otaki Scale: 1/48 Type: Supermarine Spitfire Ml VIII Extras used: Barracuda decals (excellent), Tamiya tape seat belts (honestly) Paints used: Vallejo primer, Tamiya Medium Sea Grey, Dark Green and Dark Earth, white, aluminium, rubber black, oil paints, Flory Dark Dirt, Flory Pigments Aqua Gloss, Xtracolor matt varnish Very limited build thread is part of this thread: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234964266-airfix-148-seafire-fxvii-plus-special-guests/#entry1684720 I totally went to town on the weathering. Flory wash followed by oil paint streaking, Tamiya smoke post-shading, and lots of pigments to give a dusty, muddy finish to the model. Oh, and loads of chipping using vallejo liquid mask and a sponge. Now, I'll be the first to admit, I've not based this on any reference shots, I just went to town on her. Am I happy with her? Hmm.. yeah I am on the whole. I went too far (I've never seen a spit chipped like that!), but had great fun in the process! A word about the kit: For it's age, it is absolutely brilliant! The fit is superb. Only filler was used on the underside where the kit was warped and I couldn't quite get it back. The recessed panel line detail is soooo fine I didn't even rescribe some panel lines as I though all the detail would vanish under some paint (how wrong I was...). Best panel line detail I've had on a model so far. It's age comes apparent in some places; there's no cockpit detail, the canopy is so thick you can't see through it anyway, and there are no grill vents in the radiators etc. I believe there are a few inaccuracies as well. But for the age, and price I got it, it is brilliant, and I'd happily do another. I think Airfix reboxed it as well? Enough already, I hear you cry, so here are the pics: Thank you for looking. As always, feedback is more than welcome, I'm here to learn. I probably won't correct anything on this model, but will look out for the next attempt Val
  9. Build 18 This is a very old kit from Otaki, but it looks to be a thousand times better than their F-100D that was released around the same time. (Possibly the worst kit I've EVER worked on!) This will mainly be a OOB build with a bit of rescribing. Price: 83p from eBay
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