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Found 25 results

  1. A third Nissan in a row, albeit quite different to the last one, the Be-1 and the one before, the Pulsar GTi-R. I started this one about a week ago alongside completing the Be-1 but as the Be-1 got the lion's share of the time, I'd done little more than prime the body and assemble the brakes. This is a kit I bought at an IPMS show in Crewe back in 2018, for the low price of £35. I have barely seen any for sale since then, but when I have, twice that has been the minimum. More if it's the Calsonic version. It's from Tamiya's short-lived die-cast underbody period, so it'll have some heft once it's complete. I think it appears a complex kit to look at and the decaling will be some work but overall it's not got a massive amount of parts once you look through what's there, compared to what you might expect. Much of the interior is also sadly, Semi Gloss Black. Or Black. Or Matt black. At least the very nicely moulded roll cage is silver. Some might say it's sacrilege to build such a rare kit, I say it's sacrilege not to. A bit like when James May bought that boxed vintage train set and then proceeded to open it and play with it. A lot of that complex body is all in one mould. Nice. Which does result in quite a few seam lines to remove. Assembled "axles" and brakes. Decals for two liveries are offered. I'm going to build car number 22, the Motul Pitwork version. Whilst the decaling does look a fair bit of work, at least this does a fair bit of the heavy lifting, following the instructions.
  2. Some photos of my completed model of the Hasegawa Nissan Skyline R31 GTS-R Group A (kit #21127 / HC-27), built out-of-the-box in the iconic Calsonic livery of the Japanese Touring Car Championship. This model was the clear winner of my Aoshima / Fujimi / Hasegawa Nissan Skyine Group A comparison thread here. I do not think that was ever in doubt given the relative age of the kits, but this model from Hasegawa was an absolute delight to build and looks amazing on the shelf. One of the stand-out models in my collection for sure. The level of detail is amazing and the engineering means painting and construction is simple. Given the basic R31 body is used by Hasegawa in a number of models items like bumpers and rear spoiler had to be added, and I went against the instructions to add as much as possible prior to painting to ensure consistent colour. Paint is Tamiya's TS-44 and the decals were great to work with, responding well to some decal softener and radiant heat. I cannot recommend this kit highly enough. I will be adding a road version of the R31 from Hasegawa to the collection in the future. Grant. A group shot of the three models built as part of the comparison. Front-to-back is Aoshima DR 30 / Fujimi R31 / Hasegawa R31. Finally, the Hasegawa R31 GTS-R Group A with some of it's younger Calsonic Skyline siblings from Tamiya. What's that I here you ask? "Where is THE iconic Calsonic R32 GT-R?" Well, recall that Tamiya, Hasegawa and Fujimi all have R32 GT-R kits in their catalogue. Watch this space....
  3. Another build from my Aoshima / Fujimi / Hasegawa Skyline Group A comparison thread here. This is the Fujimi R31 GTS-R Group A Skyline (kit #TC-SP-06158) that came in Calsonic livery. I either bought this model very cheap or it came free with another model, I can't quite recall, but either way it was barely worth the cost of the paint and glue I used to build it. The race interior tub, for example, is from Fujimi's R32 GT-R Group A kit, with an R31 dashboard included to shove in as best you can. No under body detail to speak of though the exterior is passable. I used very old (25 - 30 years??) RooDecals to create the 'works' car for the Australian Touring Car Championship as run by Gibson Motorsport. Racing fans will recognise the livery as also used on the first R32 GT-R Group A that ran in - and dominated - the ATCC and spawned the "Godzilla" nickname that got adopted worldwide. (As an aside that R32 was just returned to public eye after an extensive restoration.) The red and blue area were masked and sprayed as I did not trust the decals in the RooDecals set; a wise move as a lot of the decals disintegrated while applying. Grant.
  4. Finally posting some completed images of my version of Aoshima DR Skyline Group A "Layton (sic) House" (kit #042816). I built this as part of a comparison between Aoshima, Fujimi and Hasegawa Skylines that can be found here. I used decals from Pattos Place to replicate the vehicle that ran in the Australian Touring Car Championship. These decals require carrier film added and unfortunately mine reacted quite badly to the MicroScale product I used. The kit itself is quite average, being based on an old road car motorised model. A race interior tub is provided but the wheels and tyres are road-spec and the ride height is too high. I did find a reference photo of this 1:1 car being raced with these wheels in this colour, so there are not too unrealistic. Grant.
  5. These are my models of two Fujimi Nissan 300ZX kits; a Targa Top (kit #03211, ID-4) and a Convertible (kit #03240, ID-SP). I bought these kits many years ago at a deceased estate sale and I did not realise the scale of the damage to the bodies at the time. I knew the Convertible had the front roll hoop bent at both A-pillars but thought I might be able to work with it. The Convertible also had non-kit wheels that - it turned out - would not fit. The roof for the Convertible was molded in clear plastic and included the door glass. It turned out I could wedge the door glass under the A-pillar and keep it upright. Only problem is that I cannot display the convertible without the roof 'up'. The paint for it is Tamiya TS-11 Maroon. The kit wheels for the Targa Top were moved over to the Convertible and some aftermarket Fujimi wheels added. It was only when working with the Targa Top that I realised how badly bent the A-pillars are on this as well. Unfortunately there are no side windows so I could not use that trick twice. None of my (admittedly poor) attempts to straighten the pillars worked particularly well, so they are still quite bad. Paint is an automotive Ford Viper Mica purple. I have not built the Tamiya or (much newer) Hasegawa version of the 300ZX, but they cannot be anywhere near as bad as these. I have cleared two models out of the to-do pile, but these will be top of the list to go when I need more space in the display cabinet! The entire time I was buidling I felt that something was off on the proportions of the Fujimi 300ZX mold. Comparing to a Tamiya 350Z suggests the width and length might be okay. I did not measure and compare to the real cars, but it must be near-ish: Putting the Targa Top on the shelf made it clear what the issue is. It is much too short! Cheers, Grant.
  6. This is my model of the Aoshima Nissan Skyline R34 sedan, URAS version; kit #000205. I bought this kit thinking it was just an R34 sedan with a body kit, but it is essentially a reissue of the Blitz Skyline drift car (#035931, which I am fortunate to have in the stash) without the decals. So this means a molded in bodykit, race interior and a choice of wheels. My inspiration for the build came from the Pro Street of the late 80's / early 90's. For those unfamiliar, this was a movement started in the custom car world of the USA (I believe) where vehicles had full drag racing running gear but "street" paint and interior; and were generally road legal in the USA at least. One of the more iconic of these was Matt and Debbie Hay's amazing pink 1988 Thunderbird. Given the link between this kit and the D1 Grand Prix Blitz Skyline drift car, I set out to create a street vehicle of drifting origins. I used the full race interior, rear wing and NISMO wheels from the kit. Paint is Tamiya TS-56 Brilliant Orange and decals are a combination of kit and parts box. Cheers, Grant.
  7. This is my model of Aoshima's Nissan Skyline HCR32 GTS-t Type M; kit #043387. This is the interesting and lesser-spotted sedan variant of the '32' Skyline generation. The kit comes with top-engine detail for the RB20-DET engine, some engine bay detail, a second clear bonnet and side-skirts in the style of a two-door GT-R. I decided to leave off the body kit but went with the clear bonnet to show the engine detail. Not sure I would bother with the clear bonnet in the future as the painted bonnet would look better on the 'model on the shelf'. Various metallics for chassis and body paint is Tamiya's TS-10 French Blue. Custom number plate in the 'JDM' style available locally. Grant. Finally, with another four-door Skyline completed at the same time.
  8. This is Aoshima's Nissan Fairlady Z Version NISMO Japanese patrol car; kit #053868. I picked this kit up cheap at my LHS as a way of getting the Nismo version of the 350Z, only to discover when I opened the box at home that the model is pre-painted in the black-on-white patrol car scheme. Not only that but the dermacation line is crisp and lines up well across all pieces. The front and rear bumpers are separate, as are the little wheel arch add-ons. So patrol car it was! I resisted the urge to do a drift-boi special (smoked rising sun on the bonnet?) and went out of the box. Interior is simple shades of black and dark grey, chassis various metal colours. The kit comes with separate chrome light buckets and coloured rear lenses. For this particulat kit there was a sprue in the clear red that had the roof light bar, some interior pieces like a mobile phone and the two cones. A nice simple build that looks good on the shelf among other Japanese vehicles. I am not sure if the other Aoshima patrol cars come pre-painted, but I think they would make an interesting fleet as there is quite a variety. Grant.
  9. I’ve now finished the Liberty Walk Hakosuka that my wife suggested I buy to make up for my B-17 primer disaster. I guess Liberty Walk based this car on a period racer, but the only pictures I could find online seemed to be of this car. The base kit is from the 80s and was motorised. Some of the mechanics for that are still there as are a huge number of spare grilles, lights and so forth. The kit is more or less OOB, cutting the arches for the overfenders was not as bad as expected. The red is mostly paint, it all comes as decals but these were so thick they wouldn’t settle whatever solutions I tried. So just the door stripes are the decals, the rest is done with tape and paint, the number disk on the bonnet took a few goes! Other decals for names and companies laid down beautifully. Altogether it was a nice build, it looks quite bonkers; I have the LBW R35 which is another mad looker in the stash. Obviously a tuner JDM has to have period parcel shelf speakers for some bangin’ tunes! I think I want to do something with a mat finish next! Like a WW2 plane. On the other hand there’s several cars in semi-complete state I ought to work through. I expect I’ll probably go and start another car🤦🏼‍♂️
  10. After three months, mainly trying to achieve a reasonable finish, I have completed the second of 2021's Christmas presents. As I was aiming at 1 completion a month, I am somewhat behind schedule. Anyway, this was a present from my in-laws. Tamiya's rather nice kit of the Heritage 370z. As usual with Tamiya it went together easily, most of the problems are of my own making. Negative points: A few inclusions in the paint or clear that still show after multiple reworks, at some point you have to call it a day A palmprint appears in the roof strip in certain lighting! I think it must be several layers of clear down as it won't polish out. A crack in the roof black stripe, as the decals are thick but brittle, and very grabby The black stripes are slightly pearlescent in certain lights - I clearly didn't clean my airbrush out sufficiently after silver before clearing! The orange/silver blanking decals on the headlights curled up and died, so are now absent! The headlight covers are somewhat proud at the front corner. Not sure what is wrong, Tamiya suggest "snapping" into place, but after multiple attempts I gave up as I was worried I would snap the whole thing to pieces in the process. Positive points Apart from the points above, it fits together marvellously The chrome parts are very nice, I oversprayed the door handles and wheels to better match the Heritage Edition. The mirrors look great using the stick on chrome, admittedly the rear view mirror had to be refitted several times due to carelessness. Superb tyres. Its very yellow. Here is the result: Hope you all like the cheery colour scheme! This is the sort of car its essential to wear shades to drive. Despite my moans above I have enjoyed the build, have learned some useful techniques, and have plenty more cars in the stash to apply them to! Cheers Will
  11. Having finished the Lamborghini late last year, and nearly finished the Mercedes, I decided to embark on a one-man multi-build. I have in my stash the following: The idea is to build them alongside each other as a one man 'group' build. I think that the Japanese 'supercars' are pretty amazing beasts. Given that they were derived from humble origins in the case of these cars. I'm not sure about the new GTR. A powerful brute, but I think it's lost its way a bit. These three are handsome as well as awe-inspiring. The bottom one of these has already been started, and the body and floor-pan primed with Zero paints grey primer. The engine, suspension and transmission have also been completed. Hopefully I can get started very soon. More pictures soon. I'll get started on this project just as soon as the Merc is done... Cheers, Alan.
  12. Hi All, This has been on the back-burner for a very long time. I bought this kit so many years ago, the planet(oid) Pluto hadn't been discovered! Well, I may be exaggerating a little there, but I have had this for a very long time. It's the Revell 1/25th scale Datsun 240Z. Here's the box art: The box is a bit battered, but so am I! We both have had a long life! The general fit of parts appears to be quite good. Certainly the engine went together well. This was the first bit I worked on, about two to three years ago: I managed to wire it up for ignition using wire-wrap wire. The little red thing on the right is the carburettors and air filter. The filter was a solid moulding, so with great care, I drilled out the trumpet end so the engine could breathe! That for a long time was where I left it. Until this week. My wife and I were supposed to be going to Wales for a few days, but due to the Corona Virus crisis, we reluctantly decided to cancel, to prevent us spreading it somewhere else. (Neith my wife nor I have the virus as far as we know...). This means that I have had a bit of spare time on my hands. So, I have been doing some model making. I have primed the body, floor-pan, bonnet (hood) and fire-wall, thus: Ignore the clutter, I will get to those other models later... The blobby thing on the bottom right is the fuel tank and spare wheel well (I think). I am planning to paint it red or orangey-red, not quite sure yet. Also, the wheels and tyres are a typical mess that Revell foisted on us in the 60's & 70's. They are vertically split vinyl 'things' that look way too shiny and will ruin the look of the model. So, I have sourced some after-market wheels and tyres that I plan to use instead. They look period correct, and hopefully I can get them to fit. As I am messing around with the wheels/tyres, I am also intending to fabricate new brakes and axles as well. I have done this twice before, so I am fairly sure that I can fabricate the discs easily. I shall be looking for some resin callipers though... More to come. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Alan.
  13. Hi all, been a little quiet recently. This is the finished model for the last comp I entered. I sadly had to enter it unfinished due to a missed deadline, but here it is in its full finished state. The kit built well, and the over fender kit wasn't too much extra effort. The wheels are also not the OOB wheels and the whole thing has been lowered. Enjoy and thanks for looking, Coops
  14. Finished. Decals let me down a bit with them being so old. Lots learnt during this but overall pretty happy. I'm especially pleased with the paint finish which I think is pretty damn incredible Not too bad for my first car in approx 28 years Build thread here for those interested. Cheers guys! Homer
  15. Hello all, Managed to actually finish one 😊. Hope you enjoy it. And the same shot in a different light and background. Just cause 😊 This kit was great fun to build and half the price of a modern Tamiya release. Thanks for looking in!
  16. Hi guys, After moving house 2 years ago I've not touched a thing model wise due circumstances. I do currently have a WIP thread for a McLaren F1 but want to get my skill level up before finishing it so this is why I'll do this first. It's an older kit I picked up recently not that great a mould by the looks of the plastic. Soft panel lines, flash and just bits that have just plain gone wrong. So a good kit to practice on! First up was removing the seam lines of which there are a few. The front spoiler is a nightmare. A big chunk mis moulded on the front right hand side and the front left inside a mess of plastic that will need some work to make sit smoothly. So I've rescribed the panel lines (something I need to practice. Slipping with scriber = 😠) and tidied up the seams. I'm not sure if I'll glue the spoliers then paint or paint them separately and add later. Cheers, Homer
  17. Hi All, Finally, my second RFI for 2109. This is the Nissan GTR R33 that I had literally completed bar the decals and licence plates. Until tonight. I also tidied up the black around the window frames. Some had bled under the masking and needed to be carefully removed. I used a micro-brush dipped in Mr Color Levelling thinners to soften the excess paint, and a dry micro brush to mop up the dissolved paint. Since the gloss lacquer is the Zero Paints 1K lacquer, it is resistant to the Mr Color thinners. On the whole, I am pleased with the result. There are obviously things that I would like to improve, as always. However, here are the pictures: I really need to sort out a proper background. Perhaps I can construct a photo booth as my next project. I used my tripod and a narrower aperture (F13), so that I got a much better depth of field. However, the background id not so blurred out. Maybe I can correct that in the future in photoshop. Thanks for looking in. Cheers, Alan.
  18. Started this a couple of days ago. Very straightforward Tamiya 'curbside' kit of one of the last Nismo R34's to escape from Nissans' 'Skunkworks'. All the body needed was the (frankly b*tt-ugly) front air-dam/grill one-piece section added, then a good rub-down with a Tamiya 1000 grit scuffing pad and a couple of quick coats of their white primer. I also rescribed all the panel lines to make them a lot deeper - a tip I have happily adopted from Tom Rujter - Looks pretty nice just in the glass smooth primer, will shoot the first of the two-tone paint tomorrow hopefully. Stay tuned folks and please feel free to ask any questions or make any comments. AFN Ian.
  19. Thought I had posted this build up, but somewhere I got sidetracked and never posted it, so here it is. My third built car kit. Comments are welcomed, I would do things differently, for example clear coating and what not, but pleased overall with the outcome. Cheers for looking. Coops
  20. Not posted up the fair bit of this build I'm afraid. I have a few pics back home on the PC but I guess what have will have to do. Well I built up a few of the parts like the shell before spraying, and the most I did separately. First up the windscreen and rear screen come as a single piece, and there are no door windows in this kit. The out front oil cooler, just missing hoses The headlights and intercooler The door cards which attach to the inside of the shell The dash, I'm fairly happy with, and as it will be hard to see I guess I can live with a less than perfect paint job. (Need to get the steering wheel centre cap finished) the interior all up together, and roll cage fitted the exterior, I chose to go with a Halfords rattle can, with the Ford Focus green for this build. I think it will work well (fingers crossed) Thanks for looking in and fingers crossed this should come together fairly soon. I welcome any comments. Coops
  21. These were built about 4 years ago and the Calsonic was my first ever car build. All are Tamiya 1:24.
  22. Good Afternoon All, Here we have my mates (Mikes) first car model kit. He's seen me building my 1/144 planes and he has gotten interested in our dark hobby anyhow, he asked me where I get my stuff from (I said HLJ) so off he popped to see what he would like. I got him the PS-13 (he paid me for it tho). He has been building it over the last couple of months on-off while at work with my help in certain places. The roll cage (if you can see it) is scratch built by him, he has smoked the rear windows. He has tried to make it into a drift car and given it a satin look. Please let him know what you think, he knows it isn't the best model out there but he is very happy. Well that's the lot, I think his next project is a Skyline R34 C-West kit. Kind Regards, Dazz
  23. This is my first post and a recently completed Tamiya Nissan Pennzoil GT-R. I know it's a little rough around the edges and do want to put some panel lines in soon for emphasis. IMG_20140510_125629_zpsu0hcwtb1.jpg.html][/url]
  24. Hi all, Here is my just finished GT-R Z Tune. It was a lot of fun to build. The paint is Tamiya Candy Lime Green followed by Zero paints 2K Clear. Hope you like.
  25. Hi everyone, Since I've finally gotten around to uploading my models pics on Photobucket, I would now like to share pics of a model that's very special to me..the 350z which is modelled after my own car here in Dubai. The kit is typical Tamiya standard- shake'n'bake with no fit issues or problems whatsoever - it really goes together like a dream. As this was my very first car build after re-entering the hobby, the finish isnt perfect..for example, I didnt bother de-chroming and re-painting the wheels to tone them down a bit, and the "Nissan" decal on the badge is slightly crooked. Btw have you people faced issues with the Tamiya decals? They are super thin and tend to break rather easily. I prefer the Fujimi or Revell decal sets to Tamiya's as they are much easier to apply.The keen observer will also notice that the model uses automatic transmission, whereas the real one is a manual. Funnily enough, I built the model with the auto trans only to realize that Tamiya did include a tiny manual gear level!!! Lesson learned...read the instructions carefully next time! In any case, Im quite happy with the end result. I did get some funny looks from the wife though when I told her i had to keep going down to the basement parking to do "research". Anyway, this kit is highly highly recommended for both beginners and intermediate modellers alike-would love to see somebody do this in a different color like silver or metallic blue. Hope you like it! Here are pics of the real car: And the interior: And now the model, in my usual fashion of photographing on the cutting mat:
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