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  1. Hi, with help from Mike, the other mods and the review team I have been working on getting a walkaround section here on Britmodeller. This will hopefully contain the sort of detail shots only modellers need. ie the left handed widget on the Blackburn Wurlitzer etc. We are aiming for Aircraft, helicopters, Tanks, Softskins, airliners, Ships, Subs, Weapons, Ejection seats, ground equipment. Basically anything of interest to the modeller. Guys & gals this section will only be as good as the info we can get and post up. If you would like to contribute then please let me know. many thanks Julien
  2. This area is for 3D Members that want to show off and offer their 3D parts for sale to our members on an ad hoc basis, with some caveats that are explained here in our main announcement. Members wishing to use this area will need to either be a Gold Member already, or make a donation to the server fund (new donations should be £20+) before contacting a Moderator to have their membership upgraded. That will allow the posting of new topics here showing off your creations, and permits you to sell them ad hoc in small non-commercial quantities. We'd also welcome samples of your work if you want us to review the parts, so get in touch with me by PM if that's something you're interested in.
  3. German AFV WWII Marder I Acrylic Paint Set (3003) ICM via Hannants ICM have been a plastic model company that is well-known to most of us for quite a few years now, and until today(ish) they haven’t had their own paint range, which is now changing. There are 77 acrylic colours in the initial range, plus three varnishes in matt, satin and gloss, all in the same 12ml plastic bottles. A conversion chart is available that will give you equivalents in AK, Tamiya, Humbrol, Gunze, Testors, RLM, RAL, FS, Revell, AK Real Color, and even Citadel paints, although there aren’t many cross-overs in that last one. This set arrives in a card box with a header tab at one end, and inside are six 12ml plastic bottle with white plastic lids and a one-time tear-off safety ring. While they bear a passing resemblance to another brand of paint from ICM’s neighbourhood, they have stated categorically on Facebook that it is not a collaboration, and having now used both brands, they are indeed substantially different in look and use. The paint is undiluted, so will need thinning by between 40-60% with water or acrylic thinner for use with an airbrush, and they naturally have a semi-gloss finish that can be adjusted by the use of varnishes, and are waterproof when dry. During testing, I used Ultimate Thinners, my go-to thinners for any acrylic paint, which really keeps down the number of bottles in my spray booth. The paint comes out of the bottle quite thickly, so it’s possible you’ll have to dilute for good brush painting use although I didn’t during testing, so a small bottle will go a long way in either case. It sprays well when diluted, and like a lot of acrylics a light coat is best initially, then lay down heavier coats until you have the coverage you require. It dries quite quickly, and is touch-dry in 5-10 minutes in 20-23oc temperatures. All the solid colours went down without a hitch, while the metallic shade was a little more tricky initially. I had to start again a couple of times as I had inadvertently applied the initial coat too thickly, which had led to beading. Eventually, lighter coats with a rest between them did the trick. I suspect that could have been down to my inexpert thinning. Airbrush I sprayed out a patch of each colour on some blank credit card sized plastic sheets, taking up half for each colour except Gun Metal. As there are only five actual colours, I sprayed the full card with that, and over-sprayed a coat of Matt Varnish on one half of the gun metal to demonstrate the matting effect of the varnish. You can see the finished cards below. From a novice’s point of view with this brand, I’m pleased with the results, especially the Gun metal, which gave a good finish after my original bumblings. They are very densely packed with pigment, and the paint is almost of the consistency of custard from some of the pots, so a little will go a long way. I’m not a fastidious user of specific ratios of thinner to paint, so I usually splash in the Ultimate Thinners until it’s the consistency of semi-skimmed milk, then crack on. It might occasionally need adjustment, but it sure beats standing there for hours counting drops. I’m getting old! As always, I primed the cards to obtain a good consistent surface, for which I used a rattle can of Tamiya grey, as it was close to hand and convenient. Primers give a surface a microscopic key that helps acrylic paint stick, as well as providing an even colour over which to paint, and show-up any blemishes before you put the final coats on your models. It’s an accepted fact that acrylic paint is less robust than enamel or lacquer paint, so building up your colour coats on a firm foundation is a must if you are endeavouring to produce a good, professional, or at least half-way decent finish. Even for brush painting, it’s still a good idea, which was demonstrated when I scraped vigorously at the paint with my fingernail. Although the paint was damaged, very little of the primer was exposed, even on the Gun Metal, which had been wet 30 minutes earlier, where there was no primer visible, and absolutely zero lifting of the paint occurred when I burnished some Tamiya tape onto the surface and tore it off later in a careless and flamboyant manner. The airbrush I used for the test was a Gunze PS-770 with a 0.18mm needle, and it suffered zero blockages and no paint drying on the tip even though it was a warm day, so if your airbrush has a nozzle larger than that, and most are between 0.2 and 0.35mm, it should give you no trouble at all in that respect. Paint Brush I’m not a brush painter, so let’s get that out of the way firstly. I primed another card and brushed out a stripe of paint with an AMMO No.6 Synthetic Filbert brush, which is a flat tipped brush that has gently rounded edges. We reviewed them some time back if you’re interested here. I paused after one coat and took a picture to show the level of coverage you can expect. It was pretty good, perhaps slightly thinned due to the dampness of the brush after all but the first Middle Stone stripe, and I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to lay off the paint to reduce the appearance of brush strokes. The paint is very nice to use, and it spreads around well on all but the driest of surfaces, but I think the curved edges of the brush may also have helped. After the second coat there was no primer visible through the paint, and again there was very little in the way of brush marks. This is among the nicest paint I’ve brushed out, although I’m no expert due to my consistent use of an airbrush for anything but the smallest areas. If I had the full set, I’d still be tempted to use them for detail painting and dry-brushing, as the are so good. The performance of the varnish seems to have been the only drawback with a paint brush, as it has left a streaky satiny finish even after two coats from a pot that has been electronically stirred and had a glass stirring ball dropped into the pot beforehand. I’m still prepared to give it the benefit of the doubt however, as it worked well enough with the airbrush. Conclusion For a company that hasn’t been in the paint game before, ICM have hit the ground running with the quality of the paints. Some people have wondered at 12ml being a little small, but you’re not paying for any extra water to be delivered to you, so it should balance out when you’ve thinned them sufficiently. They’re excellent for airbrush and paint brush work, and if I can figure out where I went wrong brushing out the matt varnish, I’ll alter the review accordingly. Highly recommended. Available in the UK from importers H G Hannants Ltd. Review sample courtesy of
  4. Evening all, I thought I’d say hello to everyone, but I’m not really sure what to say now. I used to be really into the hobby when I was a lot younger (last century!) and even won a few prizes. I then got more interested in girls, motorbike and cars before getting distracted by the mundane stuff of everyday life, work, etc. A change to shift work a few years ago meant that I ended up with more spare time and slowly fell back into the hobby with was accelerated by lockdown. Think the time has come for me to admit that it is now a proper hobby! I’ve been reading articles on this site for a long time but have only recently decidd to actually join the community. So far I’ve been mainly making (or remaking) old Airfix 1:24 aircraft and 1:16 radio controlled tanks found on Ebay. They’re big, which suits my ham fisted modelling abilities, but the downside is that I don’t really have the space to keep or display them when finished. I’m looking to broaden my range with other subjects that are more personal to me. I’m also going to use this post as a way of experimenting with adding images so there should be some photos of my efforts below… Cheers now! Tim Old Airfix 1:24 Spitfire and Hurricane rebuilt from part started and badly built kits found on Ebat and at boot sales A nearly finished WIP Airfix 1:24 Hurricane as bought (above) and nearly finished (below) A 1:16 Heng Long radio controlled Panther I detailed and painted a few years ago. Finally another 1:16 RC tank, a WSN T34/85 made last year.
  5. There's no doubt that 3D printed parts are becoming part of the mainstream of this hobby of ours, and if you look at some of the products from major players like Eduard and others, you can sometimes just make out the miniscule lines that are the individual layers laid down by a 3D printer to create their masters. The crispness of the parts is unmistakable, and if you have a top-of-the-line printer that costs about as much as a small house (at time of writing), they can be pretty much ready for casting once they're taken off the print platform. The home machines that your average member can just about afford now (providing they have the space) weren't viable for a long time without a great deal of effort, with substantially thicker layers that were quite visible until they were exposed to a solvent to smooth them out, and/or primed and sanded to within an inch of their lives. Times they are a-changing though, and wse now have a newer generation of resin printers that can compete with the best industrial printers in terms of resolution, with 0.01mm layers now being possible with a relatively (and I say that with reservation) inexpensive printer. As time goes by the printers are either getting cheaper, have higher resolutions or both, and this can only benefit us, as we strive to make better models and make subjects that perhaps aren't otherwise available in our chosen scale. We're a long way from just downloading a kit and printing it out to assemble and paint, but some of us can already create or download the 3D files and print out a basic shape of a model already with the extrusion type of printer, and even better detail with resin. I'm interested to see how things progress and hope that one day I'll have the time, space and money available to make my own model parts on my PC. That's the preamble, now for the reason why we're here. We've opened up this area after discussions with some of our more technologically adept members that have seen the future of modelling and decided to create their own model parts and even complete models, or are interested in doing so. It has a number of purposes, as follows: "3D Printing Basics" To disseminate information about the use of 3D printers in general and their uses to modellers. "3D Printing Chat" For idea sharing and getting help with learning to use the hardware, software and understanding how to model in 3D. To create a "3D Makerspace" where modellers proficient in 3D modelling and with access to a printer to show off their creations and if other people want copies, to sell a few copies on an ad hoc basis. You must be a Gold Member to request access. We have created a new member category called 3D Member, and members can be upgraded to this status on request if they are an existing Gold Member, or have made a donation to the server fund of £20 or more before approaching us for conversion. They can then participate in the show-and-sell 3D Makerspace area, and share their work with other members. If anyone by chance should make a mini-business out of it we would expect them to move to the Vendor area but that's only fair, especially to the other 3D Members who might not otherwise get a look in. As I've only got a very limited knowledge of the process and have never created anything myself, we'll be looking for some of the 3D Members to help out with content for the areas to help others to get to grips with basics of it. We're not expecting this area to be a hive of activity initially, as the penetration of the technology hasn't yet reached most of us, but over time it can perhaps help to broaden the appeal of this new aspect of the hobby, and become more active as a result. That's the idea anyway
  6. I just saw this on Hyperscale and thought I'd share with you lot. Chris
  7. Hello everyone, just to introduce myself, my names Ed, I'm 63 years old and come from Solihull, West Midlands, UK. I've come back to modelling a couple of years ago not being able to spend as much time as i would have liked through work commitments and family health issues. But now i have gone part time i can spend more time doing what i love most. My main interest is AFV although i do like to do the odd airplane now and then. I've had two models that needed completion one being a Tamiya Tiger 1, the other a Miniart Panzer III ausf C. I've done that now, here are a couple of pictures. I've now started a T-55A with interior from Miniart and started assembling the engine. There is such a lot of amazing work being done on this site, you are all really talented people, i'm looking forward to asking for some help in the future. All the best Ed.
  8. Hello everyone, I followed a link here from another forum and started reading some of the WIP and completed build threads (I think it was an epic Pocher Mercedes-Benz 540K build that got me hooked); plus uncovering some of my part-finished models in my loft that inspired me to create an account. I used to put together model kits when I was in my early teens about 30 years ago, then I had a brief revival in my interest about ten years ago but don't think I finished any of the kits I started. The plan is to use some of this lockdown time to finish some of these projects and maybe some of the ones I've stashed away and not started yet. Away from the modelling workbench I spend some of my free time as a volunteer museum guide at the British Motor Museum (just up the road from my home). I've been into cars for as long as I can remember. Here's a picture of some 1/144 (N gauge) model cars on my layout. The green Jaguar is a metal kit while the black Citroen is a 3D printed plastic item. The ground is cut from Celotex insulation board, covered in a mix of scenic scatter while the fence was made from "L" section plastic with strands of wire from a piece of electrical cable strung through holes drilled with a fine bit. It was very labour intensive but I'm pleased with the way it turned out.
  9. Today sees the launch of a new brand of Acrylic Lacquer paints from well-known company AK Interactive, which have been worked on in association with a number of respected aircraft and armour colour experts for over a year, including our own @Nick Millman. They have produced a range of colours that will be of great use to anyone making models of WWII aircraft or AFVs of the main protagonists in the European arena, namely Great Britain, America, Russia, and their foes Nazi Germany. Using their own knowledge of paint manufacture and formulation, coupled with the named experts (you'll see those names later on), they are more than a little bit proud to launch the range, which is accompanied by a book on the subject that looks to be well worth a read. At time of writing we are waiting for our samples, plus a copy of the book, but from looking at the pre-release publicity material, it all looks very interesting. If you scroll to the bottom there are some useful links to the initial range of paints and other information, so you can see all the shades that will be available initially, and if you visit their site you should be able to see the new racks with the branding on so that you can hunt them down in your local bricks & mortar model shop if you're not ordering online. You should be able to buy the pots individually or in themed sets, and as well as the Real Color AIR sets, there are also a range of Real Color AFVs coming too, with 133 available AIR and a further 114 in AFV flavours. If you're feeling flush you can buy the whole set in one fell swoop, which will ensure you have every colour to hand plus their clear coats right from the outset. The formulation is suitable for use their own thinners which are odourless (always good), and other thinners that can be used with non-latex acrylic paint formulations. The pots are glass, and contain 10ml of paint with a textured lid that makes it easier to remove, and the details of the paint colour and number are easily seen on the colourful labels. To accompany the range of paints, AK have also launched two books, entitled Real Colors of WWII Air and Real Colors of WWII AFV, which are a companion to the colours, and have a serious quantity of information and colour photographs that will amuse you for hours, and serve as a reference for future use. You can see details of both volumes here, but we have reproduced a few pages of the Air edition here in case you're short of time. You can find a handy PDF conversion sheet here, the full release information and range of paints can be seen on their dedicated website here along with information about how to use them, the names of the collaborators, and how they went about selecting shades for "The Accuracy". We're really looking forward to seeing the fruits of their labours, and will report back in due course when we have the paints and books to hand. Thanks to Fernando at AK for the information, and to all the people that took part in this expedition into colour accuracy.
  10. Just read an e-mail from Wingnut Wings that says there will be a new model announcement at the IPMS nationals on Sunday! No idea what that could be.
  11. Hello I'm CrippledGinge and I'm very new to this hobby. I look forward to posting my projects and asking questions.
  12. Hi all! I'm just getting back into plastic modeling, with a special interest in post WWII jet fighters. I've been doing a lot of web surfing looking for reviews and info about different aircraft, and it seems whenever I did a search, Britmodeller.com would show up in the first 5-10 links. So, after seeing how much knowledge can be found here, I decided I should go ahead and join! I look forward to joining the community.
  13. Our March Specials are now live. We have fiver new tools for people to look at this month all a more than 25% off A really nice set of 5 Tweesers , A useful Diamond Reamer set, a flexible Wire. Bending tools and a Small and large wire/etch bending mandrill. Get them quick we only have limited quantities of these tools at the moment See them all here: March Specials........ Ta, Paul
  14. Begemot Decals have announced their latest decal sheet for the BIG Mig-29, which is a replacement to the often poorly researched or incomplete stencils that accompany a kit decal sheet. Coded 32-006 it contains a full stencil decal set for the Mig-29 for the aircraft and armament. It provides stencils for the standard grey-green camouflage and also for four-tone low altitude camouflage. If you've got the older Revell or the more modern Trumpeter kits, these could be just what you're looking for More info here.
  15. We've got four excellent New Plastic Model Kits From Academy Models to show you, including a 1/72 SR-71 Blackbird with GTD-21 Drone, a Russian T-34/76 Factory No.183 in 1/32 and two Modeller's Edition ship kits: The USS Missouri BB-63 & USS Enterprise CV-6 both in 1/700 Scale. See more details below.
  16. Greetings gents, It seems I have forgotten to introduce myself so here goes. My name is Ryan and I'm originally from California but moved up to Vancouver Canada and was able to get into the hobby as of late 2015. I have always had a fascination with Aircraft particularly Military aircraft from both now and WW2. My father took me to a few airshows when I was younger and I happened to live next to an Air national guard base filled with F-16s taking off every single day for their practice drills. I built my first model at the age of 9 after seeing a 1/48th scale F/A-18A Blue angels sitting on the shelf in my local pawn shop and quickly begged my Dad to get it for me. As you might imagine at that age I wasn't able to build it properly especially building it on my own. All I had was the cement and no paint whatsoever but I was proud of it and displayed it in my room. It wasn't till now that I took the hobby seriously so that I could have something more productive to do rather than sitting around playing xbox in my spare time and I find it therapeutic at times and helps me eliminate stress after work. so far I have just been reading as many reviews and build posts to try and learn new techniques for when I build and so far I have seen a steady improvement. I will take all the advice I can get from here so please don't be afraid to tell it like it is and point out mistakes I look forward to meeting everyone. cheers.
  17. I've been looking around for a really good, but reasonably priced range of paint brushes for a while... I accidentally ordered the wrong brush set from one of my suppliers recently and it turns out that they are superb. So, now we have getting on for 50 different paint brushes on order, plus a few brush sets. Hopefully they will be arriving in a week or so and will post more information then. Thanks, Paul
  18. Airfix's 4th(?) foray into blue-nosed Mustangs. I'm sure we're all familiar with the plastic, so here's the new bits: Box art: Painting guide: Cartograf decal sheet:
  19. Evening all, There's plenty of folk who've been ahead of me with this so will spare on the details. Just wanted to share my rendition of the new tool 1/48 Spitfire Mk.Vb, built straight out of the box with the markings for the restored aircraft from the Historic Aircraft Collection at Duxford. As its a restored aircraft I've applied almost no weathering as all the pics I've looked at seem to show the aircraft being kept in a very clean condition. Only thing the eagle-eyed among you will notice is I'm missing the rear view mirror.....blame the carpet monster! Will be fabricating a replacement. My only gripe.....that undercarriage attachment....aaaarrggh! Horrible. And yes, young Nigel does have a moustache!! All comments, suggestions etc gratefully received, good and bad, it all helps. Rgds, Eng
  20. The new Avro Shackleton in 1/72 scale from Airfix is back in stock at Wonderland Models! If you missed out the first time round, now is your chance to grab this fantastic and popular model kit.
  21. We Have had a restock of the Miniart Range Plus 4 New Releases MIN35195 - Miniart 1:35 - US Army Bulldozer £36.99 MIN35192 - Miniart 1:35 - German Artillery Crew (Special Edition) £8.99 MIN35176 - Miniart 1:35 - Rest On Motorcycle £16.99 MIN35164 - Miniart 1:35 - GAZ-05 194 Ambulance £36.99 Click On The Link Below To Go To The Full Range Of Miniart http://www.creativemodels.co.uk/miniart-m-46.html
  22. Evening, Another one now clear of the bench! This is Airfix latest incarnation of the Harrier GR.3, a lovely kit with the only flaw being the fin is slightly too short. There is a resin drop-in replacement now available to correct this, however on my build there's a bit of a tale of woe here! As soon as I bought this I couldnt wait to start it, and decided straight away to cut the fin and extend it with sheet plasticard myself (no resin available at this point). All went well, the fin was corrected using a 1/72 scale drawing, and progress continued apace until I was about to start decalling. When I looked at the paint guide again I realised what the niggling issue was that had been at the back of my mind since the fin surgery........I'd cut out the fwd RWR antenna and hadn't put it back in! Arrrggh.... I ended up taking the fin out of another Airfix GR.3 (yes I bought more than one, and by now had a replacement resin fin!), carefully cutting out the RWR along the panel line and splicing this into a notch cut in my now painted build. Fortunately I managed to minimise the damage to paintwork and a quick re-spray of the top of the fin put me back on track. Anyway her she is out of the box, including the decals, apart from a LGB and a 1000lb bomb from the Revell Tornado GR.1, to liven up the warlord - Please feel free to leave comments or suggestions, good and bad. Thanks for looking. Rgds, Eng
  23. Combo Pigment & Colour Sets Lifecolor Lifecolor are well known for their acrylic paint sets which provide all the colours you'll need for the subject covered. Well time moves on, and with new techniques coming to the fore, they have begun creating combination sets that contaion both the colours you'll need to paint the subject, and the pigments that you will need to complete the job. The first release of three sets is detailed below, and the new pigments have the prefix PG for ease of discrimination: Israeli Army This set is perfectly timed to coincide with all those Merkava kits that are coming out at present. It contains three base colours and three pigments as follows: Golan Dark Earth (PG101), Sinai Sand (PG101), Lebanon Dust (PG103), IDF Sandgrey 1 (UA901), IDF Sandgrey 2 (UA902), UDF Green (UA903) Tracks Painting and weathering realistic tracks can be a difficult task, but this set contains three base colours to paint your tracks, and three pigments to weather them up after. The addition of the Rubber colour is especially welcome, as it is a very nice brown grey that gives a good representation of the real thing. Reflecting Agent (PG110), Dry Dust (PG105), Damp Dust (PG106), Rubber Track (UA904), Intermediate Wear (UA905), Old Track (UA906) Rust Rust is another technique that takes some mastering, and this set is here to help. It contains the basic three shades of rust, which are then modulated by three pigment tones to break up the colour and add realism. There is no substitute for studying references to get rust effects right, and there are six photos on the boxtop that will give you a good start, although there are myriad photos available on the 'net to assist you. Eroding Burned Rust (PG107), Oxidation State (PG108), Weathering Marks (PG109), Burned Rust (UA907), Corroded Rust (908), Streaking Rust (UA909) Mud & Dust Mud and dust are found in large quantities on any vehicle that has been in-theatre for some time, despite the best efforts of crew, wind and rain, showing different colours and effects depending on conditions and terrain. A four-panel pictorial instruction is included on the rear of the box, along with captions giving extra information, which helps to make the process more clear. N.Europe Dry Mud (PG114), Red Dry Mud (PG115), S.Europe Dry Mud (PG116), N.Europe Dark Mud (UA913), Red Mud (UA914), S.Europe Mud (UA915) N.Europe Dust (PG111), E.Europe Dust (PG112), S.Europe Dust (PG113), N.Europe Dust (UA910), E.Europe Dust (UA911), S.Europe Dust (UA912) Lichen & Moss A set of four pigment powders and two fixers for your dioramas that are over-grown or unkempt. Sprout Green (POW01), Lush Plant (POW02), Fall Season (POW03), Rotten Plant (POW04), Gloss Lime Fixer (FF01), Gloss Muddy Fixer (FF02) Algae For wet & slimy areas of your models and dioramas. Luxuriant Green (POW05), Full-Blown Green (POW06), Blight Plant (POW07), Dried Plant (POW08), Gloss Dirty Green Fixer (FF03), Gloss Yellow Green Fixer (FF04) Burned Not strictly a Combo set, but as it includes pigment, it's here. Five burned colours and one ash pigment for burned out vehicles and buildings. Blackened Umber (UA758), Exhausted Umber (UA759), Rusted Umber (UA760), Burned Stains (UA761), Incinerated White (UA762), Ash (PG117) Conclusion Very helpful sets, especially for those that have yet to venture into the world of weathering and adding realism. careful painting and weathering should always be accompanied by reference to how the real items look, so study photos of the real thing before trying these techniques, and it will pay dividends. Look out for more sets soon. highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  24. Hey I'm currently trying to get the replacement parts of a Buccaneer canopy (1/72) and a Wellington prop (1/72). I don't have the parts numbers and Airfix has asked me for them. Can anyone help? If not - the Lancaster prop number (and I'll get 2)? Anyone know how much their parts cost too? Thanks
  25. We have just released 4 new 1/48 scale products for December as follows: #48251 - WWII Luftwaffe Fighter Pilot, Mid-Late War (sculpted by Mike Good) #48252 - Fw 190A-F Prop & Spinner, VDM 9-12067A Metal Blades also includes 12 & 14 bladed fans (for Hasegawa kits) #48253 - Fw 190A-F Prop & Spinner, VDM 9-12153A Metal Blades with External Weights also includes 12 & 14 bladed fans (for Hasegawa kits) #48254 - Fw 190A-F Prop & Spinner, VDM 9-12176A Wide Wooden Blades also includes 12 & 14 bladed fans (for Hasegawa kits) These products are now shipping and may be viewed on our website at http://www.ultracast.ca Kevin McLaughlin Ultracast info@ultracast.ca http://www.ultracast.ca
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