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Found 4 results

  1. I've never been one to spray a clear coat on natural metal finishes because I fear it will ruin the natural metal look, but I'm interested in the community's thoughts on doing just that. I use SC Johnsons Future for my clear coat and have for a while since it's abundant here in the states. I'd mainly like to do it to protect the paint below from doing lacquer panel washes. Any tips would be appreciated!
  2. My next build is the venerable Airfix F-80C: This was part of my mid-90's stash-building spree. It may be my favorite straight-winged jet of all time (even over my Banshee!), so I'm super excited to build this. Plus I will be trying AK interactive extreme metal for the first time as well. Not that there's anything wrong with Alclad -- I love it -- but I've found that I can't quite get the "Almost-shiny-but-partly-worn" look from Alclad. Mirror finishes and really worn finishes, yes, but that elusive in-between... no. Here's an example of what I mean: Lockheed F-80C 47-545 (11488799454) Bill Larkins [CC BY-SA 2.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0)], via Wikimedia Commons I've tried lots of pre-shading ideas, but they either didn't work or weren't consistently reproducible. I suppose I could experiment with some post-painting effects, like maybe some dot filtering or something. I don't know. Back to the AK paint, however -- I saw several builds using the stuff and it looked closer to the picture above than I can get with Alclad, so I thought I'd give it a shot. I've also looked at lots and lots of photos and have a pretty good idea of how to shade the different panels to match the metal shades I see. More on that later. So, weeknights are busy and I typically only have about 10 -30 minutes to do anything at the bench. So, I started Sunday night but only now have had time to post any progress. Sunday night I painted all the Zinc Chromate parts, and painted the landing gears with decanted Tamiya Silver Leaf paint. The seat was terribly inaccurate, so I thought I could make it a little less so after looking at some reference photos. Here's the original seat: I added some arm rests with sheet styrene: Monday night I did an oil wash on the zinc chromate parts, then sealed them with dull coat: ... and a little detailing in the cockpit tub: and painted the seat. The seat in the photos I have looks like it was olive drab against the zinc chromate cockpit floor, which seemed odd, but that's what I went with. Tuesday night I painted the details in the landing gear bays. My reference photos showed that many of the lines were silver, but the lines don't match between the photos and the model, so I had to wing it. Last night I did some dry brushing and silver paint chipping on the seat... And fabricated some ejection seat handles to put on: Of course the opening for the cockpit is small, so all this detail maybe for nothing.... I also epoxied some lead fishing weights in for nose weight. I hope to get the fuselage buttoned up tonight. I've heard good things about this kit and it seems like the fit will be fairly good. I also heard that the intakes can give some trouble. The raised detail is incredibly fine, and I'm sure it will get wiped out when I do any sanding on the seam. It is so fine I won't be able to replace it,so I may have to just sacrifice some of it. @Stalker6Recon and @Corsairfoxfouruncle -- you asked to be tagged on this one... so here you go!
  3. Evening all! Lockdown has been pretty productive for me so far - this is the 2nd build I've completed after my F-15E. This time, I went for a 1/48 P-51D Mustang from Meng. I chose this kit as it is oen of their new "glue free" models so hopefully it would be a simple build - just what I need after the rather complex GWH F-15E. Also, my dad had been asking me to build him something with a metal finish...so, two birds, one Mustang So, here it is! For the NMF I used MRP metallic lacquers for the first time - They were really great to work with; sprayed very well, good coverage in thin coats, and they dried quickly to a very tough finish! I'd definitely recommend them, and I'll be using them again for my next build - the Hasegawa F-22 Raptor. The other colours were painted up with Tamiya acylics - I had a bit of trouble trying to match the decal yellow with the painted yellow on the prop, but I think it's turned out okay? A famous view - scary too if you're the enemy! I also tried an in-flight pose for this build - It worked out pretty well but I think next time I will use a stiffer rod than brass - this is a bit wobbly and I had to wait for it to stop shaking before every photo. Oh well, we're in the midlands and there aren't really many earthquakes here, so I'm sure it'll be fine at my dads. The BarracudaCals decals were excellent, which was unsurprising since they're printed by Cartograf. I chose "Glamorous Glen III"...well mostly because it was the easiest scheme to paint in the decal set Something interesting in the decal sheet is that it's printed as Amorous Len III with separate "Gl" & "G" decals to add yourself - I guess there is some copyright issue here, but I thought it was a nice solution. And I don't know who Len is, or why he's feeling amorous No decal film, and they conformed into the panel lines and rivets really easily, with a little help from Mr. Mark Softer Neo You can even read the "Hamilton Standard" logos on the prop And, finally, even though you can barely see any of it, here is a shot of the IP - It's not accurate by any means, but it's enough for me - even brought a small smile to the Queen's face Cheers for looking, and comments are always appreciated!
  4. Hello does anyone know if late 30’s USAAC NMF aircraft have a protective anti-corrosion coat ? Im building this down in the Maritime patrol build. This is a B-18A With the 27th Reconnaisance squadron. They operated out of Puerto Rico in 1939 on Neutrality Patrol. Im just thinking with the Hot humid climate ? Wouldn't they need some sort of corrosion control, since they are obviously unpainted ? Any help is very much appreciated. Thank you in advance. Dennis
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