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Showing results for tags 'Montex'.
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I've built a couple of Airfix 1/72 models of this notoriously asymmetric aircraft over the years, and @Ozzy's recent rapid build of the Airfix kit reminded me that I had the Hobby Boss 1/48 version in my stash. The kit provides decals and paint schemes for V10, lettered NC+RA, and the wrecked GK+GH I mentioned on Ozzy's RFI. I'm building NC+RA, using the photoetch detail set from Eduard. The first problem with the kit is that the propeller rotates in the wrong direction--a ridiculous error in an aircraft that is asymmetrical in order to counter torque. So I have the True Details propeller to correct that. True Details, assembled, on the left. Then there's the problem of painting the frames on that huge glasshouse. I'm using Montex's interior mask set, though I've never had an entirely satisfactory experience with Montex masks---they seem to be too stiff, and the adhesive is intolerant of repositioning, at least in my hands. And I've made a start to the cockpit detailing from Eduard. (I found the Eduard bomb sight impossible to position in the middle of a pane in the manner depicted in my references, so it's had a bit of surgery.) Lots of bits to paint individually, I think. The kit paint instructions call for dark grey, which I imagine is RLM66, but I'm leaning towards RLM02, for an aircraft that was flying by mid-1941--the grainy, contrasty B&W interior photos I've seen are no help. The kit also wants me to paint it with an RLM 65/02/71 camouflage pattern, but the photos I've seen seem too low-contrast for that--again, I'm leaning towards 65/70/71.
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The Yokosuka MXY-7 Ohka "cherry blossom" was a Japanese rocket-powered kamikaze suicide aircraft employed against the US ships towards the end of the Pacific War. The Americans nicknamed the flying bomb "Baka" or idiot. The biggest drawback of the very fast Ohka was that it usually had to be launched first from the slow Mitsubishi "Betty" bombers and they were an easy prey for the US fighters. According to the US statistics the Ohkas only managed to hit six ships of which the destroyer USS Mannert L. Abele was sunk and another destroyer, USS Hugh W. Hadley was damaged beyond repair. The cruel fate of the kamikaze pilots was sealed when they entered the cockpit since the hood was then closed in with bolts. Untill the end of WWII a total of 852 Ohkas were manufactured. I built my model from a 1/48 scale kit manufactured by the Czech company Brengun. It's a limited-run kit but in my opinion of good quality. The number of parts of this small kit was understandably low but the molding quite accurate. The kit also contained a small fret of photoetched parts. For painting the cockpit window frames I bought a Montex masking set. Unfortunately not a great deal of the cockpit is visible from the outside. I painted the model with Xtracolor X354 Imperial Japanese Navy Grey and used Vallejo and Humbrol paints for the trolley and smaller details. There was an unfortunate issue with balancing the Ohka. The instructions advised to insert weight to the tip of the plane and I did put in quite a lot of metal, lead sinkers, etc, but apparently not enough. When my model finally rested on the trolley the whole thing landed on its tail. I didn't want to make a hole in the rocket to increase weight but since it's attached to the trolley by hooks at the wing roots it was enough to increase weight to the trolley itself. Thus, the trolley does not totally look ok since there is a bit of extra ballast.
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Hello everyone. By no means a recent kit, but another from the loft which really hasn't fared well. Fitting the upper wing was always a problem and sure enough a recent look inside the box showed that after its' last showing the wing had come away, together with struts and a tangle of nylon monofilament. I don't think I have the patience to re-build it so it stays in its box until another day. The photographs will have to suffice - fortunately I took quite a few, including a record of the construction. I'm a bit sad about it really as I was pleased with the result. It was a nice kit, in spite of all the resin (not my favourite medium), and all the markings were sprayed using the masks supplied. I tried their Fury after this and really struggled with it, which made me appreciate how good the Gamecock was in comparison. Haris
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- Gloster Gamecock
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It's been a while since I did a WIP (mainly due to only having time for sporadic modelling) but here's my latest challenge: Should be an easy build. No wait.... That come later. This is going to be pretty much OOB, but with these additions: So lets make a start. Cockpit bits assembled. I've removed the ejection marks from the cockpit floor. And then everything necessary received a coat of Tamiya XF-69 Nato Black, followed by X-22 Clear. Now to leave it alone for a bit to allow the varnish to harden, then a little detail painting followed by a little weathering.
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Dear fellow Britmodellers, here's my 1/72 Tamiya P-47D in markings of 509th Fighter Squadron, 405th Fighter Group, Belgium 1945, flown by Lt. James R. Hopkins. Built from the box with addition of Montex decals (K72008), painted with Tamiya & Gunze acrylics. Photographs by Wolfgang Rabel. Thanks for your interest! Best greetings from Vienna, Austria. Roman
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F-111C Aardvark RAAF Academy upgrade boxing 1/48 -Cutting Edge seamless Tripple Plow I intakes - Eduard seatbelts - Eduard detail for the nozzle shrouds (for the HB kit actually) - Montex masks - Academy BRU rack with Mk-82 bombs (from the E model kit ) Eduard Mk.82 bombs here: work in progress I made the swing wings work, against the general opinion here that model kits should not be toys.... that is alright, but the F-111 looks fantastic with wings spread , in comabt postion and swept back, especially the long wing C, G and FB models ... so... I have top say, that due to the long time it took me to build, inproper storage and repeated swinging, the inner pylons do not move any longer the outer ones do, but coold do with a bit more movement on their own.... I have to align them, especially when moving the wing totally back ... whatever, the wing moves nicely and the pylons do not wobble around, so I am quite content! frontal view Some silvering unfortunately, depending on light...I guess more clear coats befor decaling would have helped :~) some rear angle: incl bomb load in bomb tail-configuration "+" cockpit windows are quite big, so visibility to the inside is astonishingly good! and yes she is big! in her new home: and some flying sunset: hope you like it! thanks for comments!! cheers, Werner
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So, after some late decision on joining in , and after all the necessary content has arrived today, I am ready to present my share for this GB! sorry for those who think we have enough C models already but, that is the one it will be! no chance of finishing the F model also in the stash with Paragon wings imho..... maybe large model STGBs should be extended a bit F-111C Aardvark RAAF Academy 1/48 -Cutting Edge seamless Tripple Plow I intakes - Eduard seatbelts - Eduard detail for the nozzle shrouds (for the HB kit actually) - Montex masks - Academy BRU rack with Mk-82 bombs (from the E model kit I just recieved for this purpose.... ) the obligatory contents shot and all spread out! quite a lot of plastic to be used within the next 2 months and a bit! the upgraded Academy C model Aardvark is quite good, especially the Cartograf printed decals (if you want to build a grey one that is ... ) soon some plastic to be cut! still thinking of doing something to the nozzles themselves... but not sure yet if I really should invest more on this...Ozmods nozzles and better detailed BRU racks with bombs would amount to some 40- 50€ shipped from Down Under..... and questionable if they would arrive in time.... undecided on the decals yet
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Blackbird Models has just reissued the Montex 1/72nd Fairey Fawn resin kit - ref. Sources: http://www.blackbirdmodels.co.uk/fairey-fawn-72-2154-p.asp https://fr-fr.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=1459640420795601&id=173300159429640 Montex kit review: http://www.hyperscale.com/2008/reviews/kits/montexrma7201reviewpm_1.htm V.P.
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Hi everyone. My Tamiya 1/32 Spitfire Mk XVIe built as TD240, 302 Sqn (Polish) Germany 1945. I used the rather brilliant after market sets from Barracuda, with additional detail added using Airscale decal sets. I did a little scratch building in the cockpit by adding wires and valves as well as adding some more detail to the engine. Those eagle eyed amongst you will see that I added Rolls Royce rocker cover logos, I know that these are wrong as the motor was built under licence by Packard,but it was too late to try and remove them. The kit was painted with Tamiya acrylics with all the roundels, fin flashes and codes being painted using Montex masks and she was weathered using Tamiya weathering sets, pastels and oil washes. Sorry about the rubbish photos,I'll try and take some better ones out side if the weather ever improves! The WIP can be found here http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234981952-tamiya-132-spitfire-mk-xvie-finished-4-april/ Thanks for all of the encouragement and here's til next time. Iain
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I know I should just keep my head down and get on with building models the way the instructions tell me to but..... I'm currently at the painting stage of an Eduard 1/48 Fw190D9. I didn't want to do the colour scheme supplied with the Weekender Edition so looked around and found decals and paint masks for Red 18 of either I/Erg.KG(J) or a later incarnation. The particular airframe is Werk No. 211115 which makes it an early mid production Focke Wulf Marienburg built one, so far so good. The problems started when I looked through some of my books to try to identify which type of canopy would have been fitted as the profiles didn't all agree and I ended up still not knowing but with at least 4 different colour profiles including the decal sheet, Montex masks etc. Most are variations on a similar theme of upper surfaces of either RLM 75/83 or 82/83 which were both possible for that production batch. The real problem is with the underside as most of the profiles show that to be what is now referred to as the 'W3' style (RLM 76 ailerons, flaps and leading edge to mid chord) or 'W4' where the leading edge is in RLM 75. These are both later forms of the 'austerity' style colour schemes, the earliest seeing the paint on the leading edge only extending to the first panel, more of this in a moment. All profiles show a B4 style cross under the wing. The only photos of 211115 I have found are the same as supplied with the Eaglecal decals and show it from the rear and have no view of the wings at all, no canopy fitted either which seems to have been very common at the end of the war. However I have found a photo allegedly of 211118 which clearly shows the under surface of the wing and it is all over RLM76 with the type B3 black and white cross (and again no canopy!). At this point I am making the assumption that the photo is correct (it is certainly xxx118 but I don't have access to the original) and that Werk numbers followed in sequence so that this airframe was within spanner throwing distance of Red 18 on the production line? Oddly my references tell me that the RLM76, B3 combination was only used on the early production FW Sorau built 210xxx series so has this picture (Page 908, Focke Wulf Fw190 Vol 3 by Smith and Creek) been wrongly identified regarding the Werk no.? No matter as I have also seen a photo of 2111x2, possibly 3, (also in the same book, page 724) which appears to show one of the earlier styes of the 'austerity' paint style. commonly referred to as W2a which only had the very front of the wing, the wing tip, ailerons, undercarriage doors and flaps painted and luckily it also has it's early style canopy fitted so at least that was my original problem sorted. Sorry for the long winded ramblings however I am inclined to say that unless there are other photos of 211115 showing the underwing area clearly I will paint mine up with the earlier W2a style demarcation so is it possible that all the profiles are actually making an incorrect assumption (tempting fire and brimstone upon me from the Experten). Is it likely that the factory would paint an earlier airframe with a later style then revert to an earlier style further down the production run? It turns out there are other photos that clearly show the underside with paint to mid chord (What is possible is that it had been repainted or had the paint extended in the field of course.) Edited if anyone does know of other photos of 211115 then please point me in the right direction (preferably before I go painting the underside). Yes, Jerry Crandall's book has more pictures. Edited Now for the topside colours....... Duncan B
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I'm slowly working my way through the first kit I've made in some 35 years - an Airfix 1:48 Javelin. Having made a mess of the canopy (trying to cut a mask and ran the scalpel deeply across the 'glass') I'm waiting for a replacement sprue from Airfix and I've bought a Montex mask to prevent a similar disaster. My question is how easy are they to apply? I have visions of trying to line up the inside ones and getting them all messed up. If I position wrongly can I move them or are they a one-shot thing? You can probably tell that I'm a little scarred from my experience! TIA Matthew
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All, We all agree that there is nothing better than nice, straight and even Canopy lines. I just wanted to canvas your thoughts on the pros and cons between Eduard and Montex Canopy masks. I have used a number of Eduards masks, however I am starting to find them both a tad pricey and on a few occasions slightly too large (just a smidge - but enough to make a difference?). I have now noticed that Montex make a growing range of Canopy masks, however these seem to be made of a different quality tape. Has anyone had any experience with using Montex masks? They seem to be almost half the price of what I can get the Eduard masks for so would also make it a cheaper purchase. This is ideal as I have seemed to acquire almost two of everything. Thanks for looking / reading / possibly replying... Dave.
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Welcome back my friends, to the show that never ends... Here we have Trumpeter's 1/32 SBD-3 Dauntless, which has been keeping me very happy for the past 3 months. I have noticed a whole bunch of Trumpeter bashing going on relating to their prospective new Venom; all I can say is that this Dauntless, and the Me-262 that brought me back to the hobby, have been joys to build. I used Montex masks for the first time, and was really happy with how they turned out... much more than I was with a set of Yellow Wings decals, which were basically the wrong size, and too fragile to work with. In the end, just a few stencils got used - for the major markings (aircraft identification) I cut my own masks out of Tamiya tape after scanning in the YW codes to get the basic size and shape right. I had a bit of a mare with the paint job, which actually turned out good. I mixed up my own upper surface blue using Tamiya acrylics, sprayed it, Klear-ed it, decalled it, and sprayed Tamiya flat base on that I thought was a matt varnish. Nope. Instead, as the flat base dried it turned opaque and a very pale grey. Unsurprisingly, this caused a certain amount of wailing and gnashing of teeth on my part. I discovered (panicking) that if I polished it using damp denim, I was able to remove most of the flat base, leaving highlights in the rivet holes and a general air of fading and dilapidation, such as might be experienced by a plane parked in the heat of the sun on a carrier somewhere in the Pacific. Lets get started... A general view, showing the accidental fading and rivet highlighting. The 'B-10' is from a hand cut mask; the main insignia are Montex. First time for me, I think they are tremendous. Cor, look at the bright red flaps on that... (I'll get me coat...) A close up of the engine. Because it came with transparent cowlings, I thought I would artistically leave part of one side clear, to show off some internals that otherwise would be lost for all time. Front view. I put in the ignition harness using the wire from a wine bottle... see, everything can be re-purposed. I also used somebody's advice to anneal the wire first, which made bending it to shape an awful lot easier. Close up of the driving seat. You can't really see what's going on in there, but Trumpeter's moulding and detailing is beautiful, and looked a lot like the pictures I was using for references. A close up of the gunner's position. I replaced the gun barrels with brass... certainly look the part. Just showing it's got an underside, too!