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  1. A.M.U.R. Reaver released a new resin set to improve 1/32 aircraft such as F-15, F-16, F-111, A-10, CH-53, Swiss Hawker Hunter F.Mk.58. Set will contain four standard dispensers and four with double-sized cells.
  2. Hi Folks, I've not been on here for a while - life has gotten in the way of me completing anything. A couple of weeks ago I went into a local shop and got this on a whim: And then the Minister for Defence tweeted that the trials versions had arrived: it inspired me to create what I imagine the British version would look like. I was going to leave off the side bins but the tweet has them in place. It was also pointed out to me that the RWS Revell include is the wrong one - we went with the M151 Protector, which Trumpeter handily do one in 1/35. The decals are spares from a Chally 2 I did a while back. I wanted to do it as a 20 ABCT as I know they will be receiving them but I didn't have a spare mailed fist. I scratch built the hazard plates and fitted them the same as we have for the MAN trucks. Interestingly the MANs have the German style convoy light so I left the kit one. contr The Trumpeter RWS is nicely detailed although I had to add a carry handle for the 50 cal. It was sharply moulded but seems everywhere and fiddly to construct. I also noticed that is sat higher than the RWS that came with it (the worst part of the kit to be honest) so I had to shorten the tower for it otherwise it looked daft. I also scratch built (what I assume to be) the front camera and the trunking for it. I added anti-slip to the front as it was smooth rectangles but left the roof as it had some texture. I wish I had done the roof as well as it has been lost in the painting. The kit itself was normal Revell fare - soft plastic with not the sharpest moulding. It went together surprisingly well and, unlike the Hobby Boss version, included a rudimentary driving compartment and the mission module is a separate construction. To get the mission module to fit properly I had to remove the floor plate of the section it fits into. As mentioned the RWS was the worst part but thankfully I didn't need it. Paints are a mixture of Humbrol, Mig, and Hataka. I blacked shaded and initially used Mig SCC 15, but it come out too dark, added some yellow and it come out too bright so ended up going over it with Hataka HTK-A143 BS Dark Green (BS381C:641) which come out just right. Quick Shine gloss coat and Vallejo matt varnish. Weathering was using Mig dark earth and dusk pigments.
  3. Hallo After a longer WIP I finished my model. I took a break in plastic modelling to enjoy my model railway. Now the kit of the Su-34 is quite good. There is not much to say about, it works straight forward. There I replaced the nozzles by Reskit and took also etched parts from Eduard. Eduard parts are some help, but nothing really special. The Quintas cockpit was very useful. Masks from New Ware and Galaxy were the best aid during the painting process. The Master items of discharger are worth to mention. They are tiny, not small. So you need a quiet hand to install them. Just on the tailerons I used them. The pitot tube was also from Master. Decals and stencils are from Bregnun. They are great! To mention is the design of the gear in the kit. This is very well done! So have a look, and enjoy. Happy modelling
  4. Folks, I've finished the BMPT and Tim is happy for me to publish the RFI. I hope you enjoy it. The WiP is here It was a fun build although copying the camouflage and getting modulation got a bit tedious. Tim wanted it dusty, which does kind of go with the paint scheme. The paints were a mixture of Mig and Tamiya. The Mig expo paint set was totally off (for this scheme anyways). I used the Mig Warm Sand for the desert yellow and NATO Brown for the dark red/brown. The dark sand I mixed Tamiya XF-59 and XF-72 until it looked right, because it was what I had to hand. I used Quick Shine for the gloss coat, Mig desert wash for the pin wash, Vallejo Matt varnish and finished with Mig dust pigment and thinners to stabilise. Bill
  5. Seems like everyone's building modern and Ukrainian armor these days, right? Did I have this model in my stash for ages? Not really, just had to hop on the bandwagon. Plus I've just recently finished Trumpeter's Stryker and absolutely loved it and had to build more Trumpeter kits. So here we go, T-64BM Bulat OOTB. I wanted something Ukrainian, I was looking at this one and the T-84BM Oplot and in the end it was this little detail in the instructions that caught my eye. 125 super tiny PE discs that go onto the turret? I absolutely have to do that! Bottom part of the hull is a walk in the park, the suspension arms fit perfectly, so aligning them is no trouble at all. Funny thing with the upper part of the hull, where the instructions indicate only certain holes are to be drilled - however that is not the case and you will need all of them. Putting the two halves together - again no issues and suddenly you have a tank in front of you! Afterwards the first PE comes into play - the usual engine covers. Noteworthy thing here at the back of the hull - the rubbery skirts or whatever they are - the third one should be heavily twisted to allow placement of one of the fuel drums, however even after applying a lot of brute force I was not able to twist it sufficiently so I opted to cut it a bit instead... The fenders and side skirts - so far the only mishap of my build where I've glued one of the sideskirts "holders" in a wrong position, but luckily noticed this before the glue has set and I was able to correct it. Tracks are a mix of straight pieces and individual links and again, it's just about patience here. However as I wasn't really thinking here, the fact that I've glued the sideskirts to the fenders I will have an issue with how the tracks will be put on after painting. The Current plan is to not glue the fenders with side skirts, paint the model with them attached and only after all the painting and weathering will be done, attach the tracks and fenders as last. Onto the turret then!
  6. Want to know the exact colors for your modern French aircraft, ship, or armored vehicle model? They’re all here in this 186-page document, publication NORMDEF 0001, Edition 1, March 2009. Includes digital color chips and colorimetric data. https://ereverra.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/ere_copie_couleurs_reference_def_fr.pdf Associated AFNOR color deck (scan): https://www.aluplex-signaletique.fr/pdf/nuancier_afnor.pdf Edition 2, September 2017, can be found here: https://docplayer.fr/82727244-Norme-defense-normdef-0001-edition-02-septembre-2017.html Edition 3, July 2018, can be found here: https://docplayer.fr/148426879-Norme-defense-normdef-0001-edition-03-juillet-2018.html Profitez!
  7. Hi All, After my recent Land Rover build I had the bug to build something else in 1/24 scale (and to use some of the A/M stuff that didn't get used on the LR build. At the same time, I remembered some really cool, dynamic looking figures from DG Artwork Minatures, so I put together a plan to build a Toyota Hilux (or Hilux like pickup) in an amush/encounter with a few of the operators from DGs "Black Cohort" range..... strange names are apparently a feature. The figures aren't explicitly stated to be a specific nationality or force, but looking at the gear/helmets/weapons, they're clearly some US based force. So I chose to paint them in some variant of MultiCam/OCP. With my previous 1/16 Legends figure, I used a sample image from what was clearly a very new piece of OCP which was quite green. This showed in the final build - this guy clearly looks like he's using a brand new uniform on his first op. Looking at images of more used OCP uniforms, it seems to get dirty and fade towards a browner tone which hides a few of the 6 colours in the scheme. I didn't keep a record of my painting process, but once the figures were assembled (minus the heads), seams filled and mounted on toothpicks, I primed them all in MRP-161 Dark brown. Then I used a Vallejo Model Air Dark & Light Brown mixed on a wet palette to highlight the top edges & folds. From there I basically pulled out my Vallejo greens, browns & tans and started mixing up colours on the wet palette until they looked right (to me at least) and started painting 1 colour on each figure at a time before finishing with the two chocolate brown & deck tan small dotted colours. From here, I used Vallejo Khaki grey as it is a very good match for the Coyote Brown straps & bags. Sorry if this wasn't the best explanation, but if anyone has any questions about colours, I will try my best to answer them! Everybody smile frown for a group photo! So from left to right: Aside from the camo painting that all of them received, I try to mix it up in terms of weapon painting, boots & gloves. This chap, who I think looks a little like Dr Strange/Benedict Cumberbatch, is going to firing from cover having exited the front passenger side of the pickup truck. This guy with his anatomically questionable posture will also be on the passenger side twisting his way to get a better look at whoevers shooting at him - he's also missing his magazine as that is a separate piece for him alone for .... reasons? I think his face probably came out the best although my photography probably doesn't show it. 4 photos for this chap! - he will be leaping from the bed of the pickup. Again the face is pretty good even if he looks a bit pale and haunted. Also, despite being the only one with a helmet, he obviously thought wearing it would spoil his hairstyle Finally, our driver will be leaning out from behind the drivers side front wheel/fender. This is the figure that made me chose the range since it's such a cool pose - much better than most stiff upright figures you normally see in 1/35th. All the faces were basecoated in a few shades of Vallejo flesh colours before Abt. 502 oils were used for more advanced flesh tones, blending, shadows, the whites of the eyes and the pupils. Finally everything received a coat of VMS flat varnish (my new favourite flat clear!!) before a few drops of Tamiya X-22 for the glossy eyes/scopes. I'll start posting updates soon on the diorama where I plan to take an Aoshima Hilux and cut it up so I can have the doors opened....we'll see how well that goes soon enough I gues! Thanks for looking!
  8. Guys, so I'm thinking of modelling one of these bad boys (in the title) and was wondering if anyone could give me some help on the best 1/72 scale kits for the aforementioned. I really love these American jets and having modelled Mig-21's Mig-25s' Su-27's and the T-50 I was looking for a bit of a change. Thanks in advance P.S. I'm looking for readily available kits and if you include a link, please could it be to a website that uses GBP. Thank you very much for your time! P.P.S I love this forum!!
  9. Hello dear modellers and aviation enthusiats, I recently found this nice forum and happy to be a part of it. Since february i found my passion in aviationart again. The love for pixelart is heavily influencing my current works, but i also enjoy rough sketching. If you like it you can find more recent updates on my instagram account (@saschaschindelholz). Here is a small collection of recent works:
  10. Hi All, Just completed this Street Fighter. Thanks for viewing, for more photos of this tank click on the link : http://ptearsenal.blogspot.com/2020/03/challenger-ii-street-fighter.html
  11. Evening all Although I finished this a while ago, I never took any decent photos (or posted it here), but since I (and the rest of the country) are spending their time at home, now is the perfect time for both This is Legends Productions 1/16 US Navy SEAL Operator (No. 1 since there are 3 models). Although I'd painted several 1/35 figures before (badly), the small size meant I could never pull of UCP or Multicam properly, so I decided to build a large scale figure. This was one of Legends new figures which they modelled in 3D on a CAD programme and then, I think 3D printed to make the master for casting - the benefit of this is very precise fit so construction was a breeze! This left more time for the more difficult part of painting 😮 Not having any clue what colours to use, I printed out a sample of Multicam, and set about trying to match the 6 colours in the pattern (2x base earth/browns, 2x greens & a dark brown and tan/buff colour on top). I used a combination of Vallejo Model Colour & Model Air to match the colours. The face/skin was also a Vallejo base with details, shadows and highlights done oils - actually all the blending and weathering of the whole figure was done with oils as they gave me a long enough working time to get everything right. Final weathering was done on the figure and base with pigments to tie the two together. Probably not realistic, but I felt some colour was needed, hence the blue carabiner - this was painted silver with Tamiya clear blue over it to give it a proper metallic look. The plinth is a one piece resin cast painted black and polished. On top of that I built a simple stone/wood floor base. The detail on the figure is so crisp! The CAD sculpted face is well detailed but a bit sterile compared to something from Alpine or Hornet, not that it matters since most of it is hidden. The casings are actually 1/35 0.50 cal casings, which work out to be quite similar to 5.56 casings in 1/16. Thanks for looking!
  12. First post here, I reckon since I moved to the UK, I should start contributing to the local scale modeling forums HEMTT M983A2 tractor by Model collect, with PE set by Tetra models, in 1:72 scale As this was my first modern vehicle model (and first model with tires and windshields), I'd be curious about some feedback, especially on things like: tires weathering - not really 100% with this, went with pigments and by the time I didn't like it, it was too late to go back windshield dust effect - I don't find the final effect particularly realistic looking, but not sure how to do it better. Any tips and feedback appreciated
  13. Hand Pallet Truck Set (35606) 1:35 MiniArt via Creative Models Ltd Pallets are a great way to store and move goods in modular chunks, and the pallets are cheap, made from ugly but strong wood stapled together so they're almost disposable and frequently find their way onto bonfires. To move them around they have slots for forklift trucks to slide into, but for small lifting jobs there is the pallet truck, which is a hand operated device with a pull-lever that you also use to pump up or release the hydraulics that lift the forks and allows you to move the heavy pallet with relative ease. This set arrives in a shrink-wrapped figure box, with a painting of the subject on the front and instructions on the rear with painting guide. Inside are seven sprue of grey styrene and a small decal sheet, the locations for which are given on the back of the box in the painting guide panel. Construction is simple, attaching the two sides of the four pallets together, then snipping off the spacers for the lower part once the glue is dry, as these hold the parts in the correct orientation during assembly. The pallet truck is more complex, having a set of wheels at the tips and two pads at the rear. The attachment at the rear of the forks is made up to form a triangular assembly where the hydraulics are housed, then the wheels are added at the bottom of the steering axle, with the handle fitted above, which has a moulded-in lever to set the forks up or down when the handle is pumped. As a taster, a sprue of large plastic drums are included to begin loading up your four pallets. These are moulded in halves with separate lids and clip-down handles on the larger of the two. The are the same as those found in the Plastic Barrels & Cans set we reviewed here, so you know where to go if you need more. Markings The decals consist of stencils for the pallet-ends, the pallet truck itself with some warnings and guides, plus a few markings for the barrels with a choice of four on the sheet. Obviously, you can paint the parts any colour you like within reason, but the instructions show a yellow or red truck, while most pallets are left in bare wood, occasionally daubed with a blob of paint for identification. Your references will serve you well in your final choice of colours. The decals are probably printed by DecoGraph, although there isn’t any room on the sheet for their logo. They have good registration, sharpness and colour density, with a thin matt carrier film cut close to the printed areas. The painting guide provides swatches, Vallejo, Mr Color, AK Real Color, Mission Models, AMMO, Tamiya and colour names to make finding a match easy. Conclusion Good for your more recent diorama, adding extra realism where needed, even as a background item. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  14. This is my build of Trumpeters type 45 kit 1:350 scale. Having built the Airfix kit, which in my opinion is a bit of a dog due to how they designed the parts to fit together, or not, I was looking forward to building the more complex Trumpeter offering. As Trumpeter kits go I have seen them do better, there is more sink then usual and some issues so far with positive fit too but on the whole ok. the kit comes with a fair amount of etch much of it for surface detail such as grills and doors. I will be adding to that with the Atlantic Models etch and a gras barrel for the main gun. There is quite a bit of research material about on the net including a walk around video of HMS Duncan. there was a resent documentary on the ship and that inspired this build. HMS Duncan is the last of the Type 45s built and on leaving the hanger you will se painted on the internal door 'HMS Duncan Last and Best' So on with the build which starts with fitting the deck, which is a nice snug fit. The bulge at the bow is two parts that don't fit particularly well some filler needed on the joint and the joint with the hull. The other lower hull fittings were aded with the exception of the screws with will be added after hull painting. Just for comparison this is the difference in size net to my Type 42 destroyer The upper hull then receives some etch, all kit supplied for the hull. there is a very prominent raised line around the hull, I can find no evidence of this on any of the ships in this class so have sanded it away. My first modification is the bollards on the rear deck. They have been cast at the incorrect angle and should actually lean inward. I carefully removed them with a chisel blade and fabricated a new base for them. At this point I would normally stop and prime, fill, prime again and paint before further construction. Thats not possible with this build as the superstructure is a continuation of the hull sides. From dry fitting I can see the join is less than positive so I need to fix the superstructure in place and fill the gap first. in tern this means building as much as I can prior to first prime that will be painted the base grey without obstructing painting any deck areas, more about that in the next post Jase
  15. USAF MD-1 Towbar Early & Late (191548 & 191648) 1:48 VideoAviation Our friends at VideoAviation specialise in accessories for our aircraft models such as ground-handling gear and weapons sets. These two sets from them depict the two versions of the USAF’s trusty MD-1 Towbar that debuted in the 80s and is still in use today. The original design was updated to improve the operation of the transport wheels by adding an additional damper and wider wheels and tyres, presumably to improve its handling during transport to and from the apron. Both sets contain many of the same parts and arrive in a clear clamshell with a card front and instructions behind, plus the resin parts behind in a ziplok bag for safety and cushioning. The clamp/hitch that attaches to the nose-gear are first to be made up, and they are the same for each variant, consisting of a wide Y-shaped bracket with two fingers that wind in and out on a worm-screw that’s hand-cranked from one end. This attaches to one end of the bar, and at the join between the two halves of that the two suspension arms and their wheels are added. The modern version has wider, smaller wheels and additional pair of arms that stand up and attach to the damper with the other end slotted into an additional bracket clamped over the bar. The towing eye slots into the hollow end of the bar, and has a wire that you shape by using the included jig (bottom left & right in the photo) and slip into the base of the eye. Scrap diagrams show the wheels in both transport and towing positions, and you are told to paint the finished piece in green or grey depending on the era or your references. Conclusion Great for dioramas either in the foreground or as background clutter, with a choice of two types depending on when your model is in time. Casting is excellent as we’ve come to expect from VideoAviation, and it’s also available in 1:32, which we reviewed a while back here. Highly recommended. MD-1 Towbar Early (191548) MD-1 Towbar Late (191648) Review sample courtesy of
  16. Got another one. This was actually my original Division diorama idea that I finally put together. The vehicle and figures (once again) were painted up some time ago. I just decided to bite the bullet and do the snow Enjoy Thanks for looking ^-^ Gaz
  17. Hello, all, Just got an email from Caracal with news and description of new and reprinted decal sheets. I thought some of you might be interested in seeing them, as some of the subjects have been recent topic discussions. The one we ALL have been waiting for on the FJ-2/3 Furies is not among them, doggone it! I do not have an affiliation with Caracal, nor do I receive any consideration or compensation for mentioning their products, but I have sent them yet another request to do the Fury sheet ASAP as well as a sheet of WW2 FAA codes in white and red with white outline in both 1/72 and 1/48 scales...a few more requests might speed up the process. (Mike, I wasn't sure the best place for this topic- if you need to move it, please feel free.) Mike https://mailchi.mp/caracalmodels/new-decal-sheets-and-b-58-reprint-from-caracal-models-2904421?e=b9f6163f7b
  18. Here's another query respectfully submitted to the hivemind. I am planning an early F-15, and now that Scale Aircraft Conversions have belatedly introduced a set of white metal F-15E gear legs, I'm wondering whether they would be appropriate. I know that the wheels of the E are larger than those of the earlier Hens, but what about the legs themselves. The nosegear leg appears to be pretty constant throughout the aircraft's evolution, but I'm unsure about the main gear legs. TIA.
  19. My fellow modellers good evening. Today I've finished my Bae Hawk T Mk1 in 1/48 scale from Airfix. I've probably exaggerated with my modeller's skills, but I've tried to replicate this beautiful (for me) display airplane as appeared in 2010 and piloted by Flt Lt. Tom "Cinders" Saunders. This is the real airplane: Bae Hawk display by Franco Segato, su Flickr photo taken from www.valleyaviationsociety.net Photo right to Neil DunridgeI and published only for modeller's discussion. I was a little bored of the Hawk in all black or grey as in my display every models have this colors, and I would like to try something a little bit more colorful. I found a beautiful decal kit from Model Alliance to replicate the airplane, with such a beautiful union Jack on the fuselage. All the decals are very nice made and they react very well to Mr. Mark Softer I've used, but I didn't trust the cover of the white decals (the stripes) as the colors below are very dark and bright. I've checked in this, and also other, forum previous works on the Hawk but I couldn't find anybody that did this replica, and for this reason I had to immagine, and think solutions. For this reason I've duplicate the white stripes using my inkjet printer and I made an exact mask of them. Then I have colored the airplane keeping my mask below and when I've striped down the model, this was the result. It's not 100% perfect but I can live with it, also because this scheme was, for me, really difficult. The model had the improvement of a new CMK Cockpit as I wasn't satisfied with the kit's interior, everything else is as Airfix made it. Three hands of Future wax made it very bright and clean as a display airplane should be. I hope you will enjoy the kit and the effort to make it as real as possible. Here some shots: P_20171011_164828 by Franco Segato, su Flickr P_20171011_164625 by Franco Segato, su Flickr P_20171011_164854 by Franco Segato, su Flickr P_20171011_164704 by Franco Segato, su Flickr P_20171011_164646 by Franco Segato, su Flickr Dall'alto 2 by Franco Segato, su Flickr P_20171011_164958 by Franco Segato, su Flickr P_20171011_164727 by Franco Segato, su Flickr P_20171011_165050 by Franco Segato, su Flickr P_20171011_164742 by Franco Segato, su Flickr Now It rest on the Royal Forces part of my display: P_20171011_165346 by Franco Segato, su Flickr As always your judge and suggestions are very welcome as I'm still improving, with everybody help, as modeller. Franco
  20. Hey, After several years of AFV and plane modelling I feel ready for an excursion in the maritime world I was eyeing some of the post war aircraft carriers but I think I should start smaller with a destroyer, for instance. The only problem I have is choosing the "right" beginner kit from the plethora of available options. Here are a few corner stones I have in mind for the selection: - price not over 50 GBP / 50 Euro - scale should be 1/350 - cold war or modern era subject - PE parts are OK; even resin/metal add-ons can be considered - nation is not so important - ideally, an off-mainstream, exotic subject Any suggestion is most welcome! Thank you!
  21. Hi folks, I am newly returned to the hobby, after a number of years away. Until now I have always modelled British armour - most from WW2 and the first Gulf War. But I fancy a change. I have always been interested in the Israeli Defence Force, and their unique methods of acquisition and engineering of their AFVs, so as to end up with vehicles which suit their particular needs, and 'supply chain'. So, I'm starting out with Meng's Achzarit Early HAPC. It's a very interesting vehicle, and a typical Israeli 'product' - old Russian tank, plus a lot of ingenuity and components acquired from all over the place resulting in a unique kind of vehicle. I'm intending to build it pretty much 'out of the box' - without going into a lot of detail about why, I need to keep life simple. So, the beginnings... I've got a copy of the 'Desert Eagle Publishing' book on the vehicle, and access to lots of images on the interwebby thing - hopefully that'll suffice for research materials! I've started at the beginning, as stated in the instruction sheet - though, knowing me, I'll probably find a 'better way' and deviate significantly. But wheels are usually a good place to start. The sprockets and idlers went together fine. Road wheels 'A' (four off), not so much - two of the 'blind' holes (part B6) are far too shallow to fit the poly-caps as moulded, though two are fine. I'm away on holiday, so only have access to a limited selection of my tools... This is a lathe job and, unsurprisingly, I didn't bring that with me! So road wheels 'A' will have to wait a few days... I wonder why none of the on-line reviews (and build logs) I've read haven't run into the same issue. Ah well, onwards and upwards, now for road wheels 'B'. Cheers, Phil
  22. So a little while back I was thinking how I could use up some of my excess figures without overcrowding other ideas for dioramas I have (got a bit of a ridiculous number going on lol), and I came up with an idea for a scene from Tom Clancy's: The Division video game. Base idea would be a group of soldiers - supposedly part of the Joint Task Force - from the game being pinned down on a street by a 'cleaner'. With this ide,a I can use three soldiers that I currently have, plus an old re-purposed Dragon SAS soldier or two, for whom I will make some air tanks and repaint. I've noticed Masterbox has a new modern set on the way that would be perfect for this as well as another diorama idea, so I'm aiming to leave open space to add them in. So far I have the pickup done, as well as three figures, the dumpster and some waste bags (rolled bits of Green Stuff). I've made up the tarp from Green Stuff, which will need to be painted (trick because there is nothing under it :P). The base needs some painting, and I plan to add a wall at the back of it (right side). I'll then add some snow texture from Tamiya, and a bit of powder snow effect as well. The pickup has already been 'frosted' with a bit of white spray. Used in this diorama so far are the 1/35 F-350 from Meng, soldiers from the Masterbox 'Man Down' set, Dumpster from the Meng 1/35 Vending Machine set, plastic drum from the Meng Highway set, and a holdall from the Meng IDF Equipment set. Down below is a quick breakdown of components, and a general idea of its eventual look And in truly 'black kit' Thanks for looking Gaz
  23. So I received the Academy M1A2 TUSK last year, asking for it in part because I spotted the Miniart Modern U.S. Army Tank Crew set. Unfortunately, that set is still listed as 'Coming Soon' even when a new one, the USMC crew set, seems to have been simultaneously announced and released >< As I understand it, the Marine and Army crew uniforms are quite different, so you couldn't pass one off as the other. What is particularly frustrating is I always make the Army version (seem to have more gadgets on them), but all the modern tanker figures seem to be Marines, and for some reason Miniart is delaying the Army set for who knows how long. Does anyone know if Army tankers ever wore a one-piece uniform like this in the modern era, or are they completely wrong for an Army vehicle? Appreciate any assistance on this (and hurry up Miniart!) Gaz
  24. Hiya, folks. I finished my Willys, so it's time for something new. This time I decided to build something more modern. I found this Grizzly in my stash. I bought it once in Berlin for a bargain price due to the box damage. It's an easy to build (i hope) model with no interior. It has lotsa mistakes - too bad. I'll try co correct some of them. Here's what's inside the box: But first, the box itself... Rubber tires. Some PE parts. Clear parts. And the sprues. The Hull. I also started on lower hull and suspension. So far everything fits fine, no problems. Some more details added. Some close-ups. As lower hull is nearly done, I'm gonna go for upper one. First I'll fill these 3 holes in the center of the image. They are incorect, the hull should be flat. That is it for now. Cheers. DAwid
  25. I have been working on this model since July this year following a summer camp at RAF Conningsby. By chance I photographed BE taxiing out during a heavy downpour. I was soaked but it was worth it to obtain some excellent photos. The twin seat interior and cockpit etched sets from Eduard have been used, however I had to trawl the internet to get hold of them. I found them eventually in the USA and Germany.
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