Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Messerschmitt'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Calendars

  • Community Calendar
  • Group Builds
  • Model Show Calendar

Forums

  • Forum Functionality & Forum Software Help and Support
    • FAQs
    • Help & Support for Forum Issues
    • New Members
  • Aircraft Modelling
    • Military Aircraft Modelling Discussion by Era
    • Civil Aircraft Modelling Discussion by Era
    • Work in Progress - Aircraft
    • Ready for Inspection - Aircraft
    • Aircraft Related Subjects
  • AFV Modelling (armour, military vehicles & artillery)
    • Armour Discussion by Era
    • Work in Progress - Armour
    • Ready for Inspection - Armour
    • Armour Related Subjects
    • large Scale AFVs (1:16 and above)
  • Maritime Modelling (Ships and subs)
    • Maritime Discussion by era
    • Work in Progress - Maritime
    • Ready for Inspection - Maritime
  • Vehicle Modelling (non-military)
    • Vehicle Discussion
    • Work In Progress - Vehicles
    • Ready For Inspection - Vehicles
  • Science Fiction & RealSpace
    • Science Fiction Discussion
    • RealSpace Discussion
    • Work In Progress - SF & RealSpace
    • Ready for Inspection - SF & RealSpace
  • Figure Modelling
    • Figure Discussion
    • Figure Work In Progress
    • Figure Ready for Inspection
  • Dioramas, Vignettes & Scenery
    • Diorama Chat
    • Work In Progress - Dioramas
    • Ready For Inspection - Dioramas
  • Reviews, News & Walkarounds
    • Reviews
    • Current News
    • Build Articles
    • Tips & Tricks
    • Walkarounds
  • Modelling using 3D Printing
    • 3D Printing Basics
    • 3D Printing Chat
    • 3D Makerspace
  • Modelling
    • Group Builds
    • The Rumourmonger
    • Manufacturer News
    • Other Modelling Genres
    • Britmodeller Yearbooks
    • Tools & Tips
  • General Discussion
    • Chat
    • Shows
    • Photography
    • Members' Wishlists
  • Shops, manufacturers & vendors
    • Aerocraft Models
    • Air-craft.net
    • Amarket Model
    • A.M.U.R. Reaver
    • Atlantic Models
    • Beacon Models
    • BlackMike Models
    • Bring-It!
    • Copper State Models
    • Freightdog Models
    • Hannants
    • fantasy Printshop
    • Fonthill Media
    • HMH Publications
    • Hobby Paint'n'Stuff
    • Hypersonic Models
    • Iliad Design
    • Hobby Colours & Accessories
    • KLP Publishing
    • L'Arsenal 2.0
    • Kingkit
    • MikroMir
    • Model Designs
    • Modellingtools.co.uk
    • Maketar Paint Masks
    • Marmaduke Press Decals
    • Parkes682Decals
    • Paulus Victor Decals
    • Red Roo Models
    • RES/KIT
    • Sovereign Hobbies
    • Special Hobby
    • Test Valley Models
    • Tiger Hobbies
    • Ultimate Modelling Products
    • Videoaviation Italy
    • Wingleader Publications
  • Archive
    • 2007 Group Builds
    • 2008 Group Builds
    • 2009 Group Builds
    • 2010 Group Builds
    • 2011 Group Builds
    • 2012 Group Builds
    • 2013 Group Builds

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

  1. Brengun is to release a 1/144th Messerschmitt Me-309 V-1/V-2 kit - ref. BRP144015 Source: https://www.facebook.com/HaulerBrengun/posts/1705025429656098 Box art V.P.
  2. Hello guys, Here are the photos of my most recently completed model, the Me P.1099 from Revell Germany in 1:72.
  3. After finishing my Spitfire, I decided to build this little kit that I found at Hobbies Moròn for a good price. Only three sprues inside the medium sized box, two in dark green and one clear sprue. Instructions are of the pre-2017 Revell style, I.E a photocopy with very clear construction steps. Decals were printed in 1996, making this kit as old as I am. I tested a small decal on my paint mule, and it didn't break, so I'm relieved I won't be having to look for 1:72 German insignia (I mainly build 1:48 akd 32). Boxart: Sprues: Decals and instructions: My main attack plan will be to paint all the small parts while they're on the sprues, and then assemble them.
  4. An Me 262 in Argentinian colours. I debated myself whether to use the Tamiya Me 262 for this what if, or go the realistic route and paint the plane as Adolf Galland's machine. The what if won. Also, coming up is my birthday! So I have to choose between two (or three) planes. Decisions decisions.
  5. Hello guys, Welcome to what may be my third build of 2022. Looking on Google, I stumbled upon some profiles of the Me 262 in Argentinian service. I then remembered Argentina had received several Gloster Meteor Mk.4s from Britain after WW2, so I decided to make a what if Me 262 in Argentinian markings, based on the Meteors. Colour scheme will be of Gloster Meteor Mk.4 C-027 with yellow and blue wing bands and empennage. Decals will come from some spares I have from Condor Decals (numerals) and roundels (Dukel Hobbies). The victim: The profiles: The aircraft I'll attempt doing: The painting instructions from HKM's 1:32 Meteor: The decals for the numerals (other insignia aren't shown): I'm eager on starting this project once I get the model (I already paid for it). Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
  6. Welcome to my newest project, the Revell/Hasegawa 1:32 Bf 109K-4. I'll be receiving the kit in November (hopefully of this year), and I'll be making a start accordingly. I've searched for photos (why can't I do like when I was younger in just following the painting instructions, I don't know) of the three schemes offered in the kit: Red 7, Adolf Borcher's K-4 and Black 15. I've found photos of those three, but I'm also tempted in painting my aircraft as my previous build, but with a different number. If I wish to go with the latter option, I'll have to buy a new, finer brush than what I have available. Anyways, I'm sure inspiration will hit me once I actually get the kit. For now, some photos I came across of the kit's colour schemes and other random K-4s. Kit schemes: Red 7 (or Blue 7): Black 15: Adolf Borcher's K-4: Random, unmarked 109K-4 photos I found while looking for the kit schemes: 148: The mystery aircraft, no numbers (nor wings), just a fuselage with the Crosses and Swastikas (probably): 199: And finally, the boxart of the kit: I hope this long introduction convince you guys of following the build. If you have more unmarked photos of a Bf 109K-4 (except of the Red Tulip one), make sure to link them! Bye for now.
  7. Me.163B Löök Cockpit Set (644117) 1:48 Eduard This set for the new GasPatch Models kit contains a combination of pre-printed resin and PE parts to quickly and efficiently detail up your cockpit. There are two resin parts that make up the instrument panel in front of the pilot, the second part a dramatic emergency release pull-handle and a PE skid lever below it, with glossy faced dials already painted for you on black resin. Additionally, the PE set of four-point belts for the pilot, complete with brown comfort pads that protect the pilot from the buckles. Review sample courtesy of
  8. Here it is guys, my first Bf 109K-4 in 1:48. The kit is from Hasegawa. 332700 was found by the Allies at Wunstorf, Germany, at the end of the war. It sported only two "700s" plus the crosses. I bought this Hasegawa kit second hand (no bags except for the clear parts). Other than that, the kit was complete. Decals took a long time to move from the paper, and I used two Xtradecals crosses to replace two I had to remove.
  9. The last of my three Luft ‘46 completions, and the only reason they all got completed at the same time was because they used the same paint colours and it was easy to just line them up in assembly line fashion, is the Trumpeter Messerschmitt Me 509. This is a very easy build, but it requires a lot of nose weight and there aren’t many places to put it ahead of the cockpit. As a result, the model is quite heavy. Also, Trumpeter don’t provide a positive location method for the retractable radiator if you want to install it in anything but the fully retracted configuration. I glued a piece of square plastic tube across the fuselage resting on the exhaust locators to give me something to glue the radiator to in a partially deployed configuration. I masked and painted the spinner spiral rather than using the included decal.
  10. When we received the new Border 1:35 Bf.109G-6 we got it reviewed PDQ so that people could have a look at this sort-of new scale venture, from a relatively young company, and you can see it here. We're used to 1:35 AFVs, and a few helicopters that have been scaled to go into AFV dioramas, but this is one of the first mainstream kits of traditional winged aircraft, and that's worth a look. Could this be the new de facto larger scale that attracts the AFV modellers so they can have everything in their cabinet in the same scale? I know that's an attractive proposition, as I seriously considered 1:48 armour when I first got interested in the genre thanks to @Dads203. I went with the de facto 1:35 for my AFVs on his advice, and stuck with 1:48 for my aircraft. 1:72 scale modellers have had that for a while now, although there's not a huge range (that I've seen) of new kits coming out in wee scale. Anyway, I'm wittering. It's my first 1:35 aircraft, and my first Border Model kit, so I was interested to see how things went. It's well-detailed, has plenty of parts, a complete engine with optional clear cowlings, some weapons, and a few goofs, which I've already outlined in the review. I'm not one to throw up my hands and scream "unbuildable", as we're all human and therefore fallible, so I just shrug my shoulders and carry on. If a thing bothers me enough, I'll see if it's fixable, or I'll leave it if it's too hard or I'm not feeling particularly adventurous. Here we go! The first item up was the engine, which goes together quite well. I've left it in a few sub-assemblies to make it easier to paint, and be aware that there are a few pins that are slightly larger than their sockets, so keep a pin-vice with a drill bit handy, and test fit everything, which is a good idea whatever you're building, be it shake-the-box or short run. The details on the top of the ancillary "block" can be put on at the wrong angle, so check the instructions carefully before you apply the glue. F23 needs to point slightly upwards, which won't happen if you put them on upside down, and D62/63 need to be set square, as there's no key on the pin. Get that right, and you'll be smiling. The little tanks on the sides of the engine block have tight pins, so adjust those accordingly (they're not in the picture). Also, the centreline gun can be put in at any orientation, but check the humps and bumps then compare them with the instructions before you glue them in. Here's a pic of the majority of the engine, surrounded by supercharger, engine mounts, cowling, pilot and so forth, all ready for priming. You might notice that there are some seams on the exhaust stacks, which I added from stretched sprue, because the perfectly servicable moulding seams that are on them at outset have to be sanded away to remove one of the sprue gates on the elbow. it didn't take long to do the job, and I know it's a bit over-scale, but I quite like the look of them. Be sure to set all the exhausts to the same angle to the engine, or you might have some issues with slotting them into the cowling later on. If you let them sag, it'll bite you in the bottom. I've also knocked up the insides of the cockpit walls after filling the ejector pin marks, only two of which are visible, as I suspect the ones at the front will be shrouded in darkness. There's a bit of filler behind some of those detail parts, so learn from my wasted effort Detail is nice in there too, so I'm looking forward to painting that little lot up. The figure is especially nice, as you could probably tell from the pics in the review, but the pic above came out a bit soft because I've focused on the IP and engine, so focus was drifting off a bit. You can see the IP coaming on the left of the pic, with the basic nose gun bay visible with a few un-filled ejector pins. Frankly, I'm ok with that, as I'm going to leave the Beule closed up and opaque. I'm not yet decided on the clear cowlings, whether to use them or not. I might. I might prop one cowling open or leave one cowling clear. Who knows? Not me. It's nice to have options though I also knocked together the wing inserts that hold the wing guns' ammo chutes, which are drawn back-to-front on the instructions with the slots for the ammo chutes in the front, and as I found the design odd and intriguing, I first nipped off those parts from the sprues while I was writing the review. It took a wee while for me to figure out what was up, but once I did it was a simple enough fix. The artist got it backwards, and also drew the cylinders in slightly the wrong place. No harm done if you read the review or this build thread before you start gluing. If you're interested, I've been giving feedback to Border on the kit via Albion to assist them with future projects, all being well. Go me! You can see how they should go together in the pic below. Since then I've been filling the ejector pin marks on the inside of the flaps and the head armour, and I've also been making up the landing gear. The main gear having movable oleos is cool, but in reality it also leaves a little bit too much "slop" in the strut, allowing the axle to twist round a few degrees each way, so I set them to minimum and flooded it with glue, which also made fitting the scissor-links easier, as there was one less moving part in the equation. Check the width between the receivers on the strut before you start gluing the oleo parts in, as I had to adjust mine with a swipe of a skinny sanding tool - one of those cool stick-on Galaxy Tools ones. We likes The wheels build up really well, and they look great once done, and I'm just waiting for the glue to fully cure before I sand off the bead of plastic I squeezed out, with a similar technique used for the drop-tank. The last sub-assembly made up so far is the prop. I got the metal blades in my goody bag, but I opted to use the styrene ones anyway, as I'm lazy. There's a bit of prep-work on the metal blades, so I left them in favour of the plastic ones. Both plastic and metal blades fit into the two halves of the boss very well, with the pins ensuring they're all at the same angle and the correct way round. I clamped them closed while the glue set, and have another tiny bead of melted plastic to remove tomorrow. I foresee some primer in my near future Don't forget to smash that like button & subcribe, as it really helps me out. No wait, that's not me. Ignore that part.
  11. Here are the final photos of my 109G-6 from Revell in 32nd scale. Pretty good kit, with lots of parts. Now I'm eyeing the Erla Bubi Hartmann version.
  12. While I wait for the decals for my Ju 88C-6b from ICM to arrive (I haven't even cut plastic), I've decided to buy and build this kit. I've been looking up and down for it, and finally got it at a good price. I'll be painting it as Franz Dörr's Bf 109G-6 Late. This aircraft was stationed at Gossen in Norway until the end of WW2 in Europe in May 1945. As it's a common thing with Revell Germany models, the kit doesn't come with Swastikas, so I may have to source them from somewhere else (if I decide to put them when the decalling starts). Speaking of decals, they're printed "in Italy for Revell," so I assume that's Cartograf. I'll begin the kit tomorrow after coming back home from my Covid vaccination trip.
  13. Build #8 - Tamiya Messerschmitt BF109 G-6. Definitely starting to become a Tamiya fanboy! this one is up there with the P51, P38 and Spit! some serious thought and engineering went into this design and it was a joy to put together (as always with Tamiya) the quality and fit are excellent as you'd expect, again no need for filler or excessive force to complete the build. Granted the engine bay isn't as detailed as using aftermarket detailing kits, but its still better than you'd expect from using stock parts, and the unique way the engine bay is constructed sets this kit apart in my opinion! As with my last build i masked off and painted in as much of the livery as possible which i prefer to using the supplied decals. The German insignias were a little tricky but i was more than happy with the result, the spiral on the nose came out better than expected too. the fuselage was my first attempt at airbrushing freehand, i had a few problems with my airbrush and couldn't seem to keep the pressure consistent which resulted in paint splattering - turns out it just needed a bloody good clean! I used Vallejo Mecha primer on this one which really helped with the yellow pigment which really doesn't like to be applied straight to plastic - I'm pleased with the final result, let me know what you think!
  14. Hello everyone. I've been lurking here for a long time and, like many it seems, returning to aircraft modelling after a very long break ( about 30 years in my case). My plan was to kick things off with a confidence builder-build. Nothing too complicated, cheap and straight out of the box but sadly my first choice of kit had other plans as you can see ... Attempt 1: Revell 1:72 Bf109 G10 I know the marque pretty well so this seemed like a good bet. Progress was slow though, at least partly because of short-shot moulding around the exhaust areas. These had to be rebuilt and once I'd started down that road ... I attempted to add a seam to the exhaust stacks, drilled them out, added a weld to the intake, tidied up innacurate rivet detail. Already slipping down the rabbit hole ... and my efforts were a bit heavy-handed. So, cockpit. Nice and simple. Aftermarket additions would cost more than the kit so I added some masking tape seatbelts and, figuring the cockpit view would be limited by the thick transparencies provided, just painted most of the details in there. Bit odd but perfection is the enemy of done, right? My hope was that a high-contrast approach would at least be somewhat visible. Then disaster struck. Already this has become far more involved than planned for my 'first' and when the fusilage halves were married it turns out there's a distinct lack of symmetry between the canopy and nose. Picture doesn't do it justice but that will need resculpting to look anywhere close to true. I've not removed material here yet - but there is a prominent 'slump' to port when viewed from the front. For now this is headed back to the box to have a word with itself. Frankly I'm not ready to reshape the distinctive later 109 cowl. I admit I was starting to get quite dispirited and wondering if I'm cut out for this business. Very happily though Airfix came to the rescue when I decided to have another shot, this time at their Me262. Again, I know it pretty well so fingers crossed ... Attempt 2: So far it's fallen together like a dream. Within a day I have all of the main components together and it looks like an Me262. Cleanup has been really minimal with the only slight wrinkle being where the engine nacelles meet the wing leading edges - predictable and so far looking pretty easy to fix. The experience of building this kit could hardly be more different to the 109 and I'm hooked. Only addition so far is a masing tape and scrap plastic harness. So, long story short, this is what I'll try to document here, if only to keep me focused, and so far very happy with the kit. Any pointers or advice very gratefully received. Will add some details to the rear shelf here after cleanup. Perhaps a suggestion of panel wiring but I suspect invisible with the canopy on. Slightly worried about rescribing the two ports in front of the cockpit but might have a plan. First layer added here - will build these up a bit more and then shape. Wing roots are impressively tight and won't need filler. Nacelles need an extra polish to smooth out any remainign join lines but feel smoother than they look here.
  15. This is the Revell model of the P1099B, an aircraft that never left the drawing board in terms of design. It's a rather ugly aircraft but that's kinda what I liked about it when I bought the kit. According to the instructions this aircraft was from KG 76, a bomber squadron, so I found a much larger pistol packing devil for the side of the aircraft, I think it came from a KG 76 Junkers 88 kit. Since it was a fighter bomber, I also added a bomb and rack under the fuselage from an Me 262. Colour scheme is RLM 82 light green with RLM 83 dark green patches over RLM 76 blue. The squiggles are RLM 76 which I applied with a brush to get the nice hard edge. This was based off an Me 262 camouflage schemes that I liked. Overall the kit is good fitting, although there was some filling and sanding required on the engine nacelles and the nose wheel insert. Some weight was also required to prevent tail sitting.
  16. Hello guys, here's a kit I built in 2020, but was finished "properly" yesterday. It's Revell's Bf 109G-10 with markings for Green 2, based at Stendal in 1945. The only thing I did to finish the kit was to add some mottling to the fuselage sides.
  17. Bf.109G-2 ProfiPACK (82165) 1:48 Eduard The G variant of the Bf.109, colloquially known as the Gustav was one of the primary fighters available to the Luftwaffe during the closing years of WWII, alongside its supposed replacement the Fw.190, and saw extensive active service right to the end of hostilities, all the while being upgraded to combat the increasing Allied superiority in the air. Happily for the Allies, the supply of experienced pilots was fast running out, so as good as the upgrades were, they couldn't make an appreciable difference to the outcome. The G-2 differed from the initial G-1 insofar as it didn’t have the pressurised cockpit of the earlier variant, and it was sometimes fitted with different head armour for the pilot – lucky fella! The various G sub-types were a problem from a maintenance point of view, having far too many variations to be practical, so the K series, Kurt to its few friends was created, but at that late stage it wasn’t particularly well liked or very successful. Some actually considered it to be a retrograde step. The Kit The G-2 is just one of Eduard's series of Gustavs, which is now enjoying a reissue with just a minor change in parts and decal options, plus some fetching new artwork that shows the replacement decal option having just shot down an RAF P-40 in the desert, the poor pilot scrambling free from the cockpit as the wreckage burns. The ProfiPACK boxing contains a wide selection of decal options and Photo-Etch (PE) parts in Eduard’s pre-painted style with the recently implemented glossy dial faces. Given the aforementioned differences between the sub-variants, there aren’t a huge number of differences in parts between the airframes. The cockpit is adorned with most of the coloured PE to upgrade the detail, and a clear fuel line so that the clear vision section can be left unpainted to allow the pilot to see the fuel sloshing about within. The PE harnesses and rudder pedals, plus all the other detail parts on the cockpit walls make for a seriously well-detailed cockpit. With the addition of the tail-wheel in the rear, and a choice of shrouded or unshrouded exhausts in the nose, you can close up the fuselage with the cockpit trapped between the halves. The nose also receives a circular bulkhead that receives the prop later in the build. The exhausts without the moulded-in shrouds are your best choice for detail, as they have hollow tips, and you can add PE shrouds while you are installing the small PE hinges and the intake filter that is specific to the tropicalized variant, which has a pair of PE meshes that require bending to fit the cylindrical housing. It also has a pair of small stays added from the PE sheet to stabilise it in the airflow, which shows nice attention to detail. The flying surfaces are all mobile and capable of being depicted deflected, while the wingtip lights have been moulded into the wing halves, so a small mask has been included to help you cut a neat demarcation between the wing skin and the light, unless you are going to remove the styrene and replace it with clear plastic from your own stock. The gear bay walls are made up in the full-width lower wing, and two holes should be drilled for four of the decal options, plus two ammo chute inserts that drop through from inside the lower wing. With the addition of the upper wings you can join them to the fuselage, then add the leading-edge slats in the dropped position for stationary, or retracted whilst in the air once the pressure is sufficient to push them in. The radiators have PE mesh skins, as does the chin-mounted oil-cooler, the flaps consist of upper and lower elements just like the real aircraft, and there is a choice of tyres for your decal options. One option requires the removal of the majority of the captive main gear bay door, which is an unusual sight, possibly to prevent snow from building up between them and the wheels. Another choice is offered for the clear windscreen part, with a common square profile canopy and fixed rear portion with the earlier larger aerial mast, which has the usual post and PE attachment for your choice of rigging material at the tail-end. There is a canopy stay wire included with the PE, which is a great addition that adds realism, and is common throughout the G-series Profipaks IIRC. With the prop added, it's just a case of choosing whether or not to add the additional armament in the shape of underslung cannons in gondola cowlings outboard of the landing gear bays, which is what the reamed out holes were for. These are also available as a resin Brassin set if you are going for hyper-detail and perhaps want to leave open the access hatches to show off the cannon breeches and ammo magazines. Supplied on yellow kabuki tape, a sheet of pre-cut masks provide you with a full set of masks for the inside AND outside of the canopy, with half a page of instructions devoted to their installation. In addition, you get a set of hub masks for the wheels, allowing you to cut the demarcation perfectly with little effort. Markings As is often the case with Profipak boxings, there are five decal options included on the larger decal sheet, and a set of stencils on the other sheet, which will allow you to build one of the following: Bf.109G-2/Trop Wnr. 10533, Uffz. Horst Schlick, 1./JG, Bir-el-Abd, Egypt, Nov 1942 Bf.109G-2/R-6/Trop, W.Nr.13916, Fw. Hans Döbrich, 6./JG 5, Alakurtti, Finland Feb 1943. Bf.109G-2/R6, Lt. Walter Krupinski, 6./JG 52, Maykop, Soviet union, October 1942. Bf.109G-2/R6 W.Nr. 13949, Mjr. Hans Hahn, II./JG 54, Rjelbitzy, Soviet Union, Jan 1943. Bf.109G-2/R6, W.nr.13633, Hptm. Wolf-Dieter Huy, 7./JG 77, Tanyet Harun, Egypt, Oct 1942. The stencils are shown on a separate placement guide on the back page of the booklet, and both sheets are printed in-house, with good colour density, register and sharpness. In use these decals settle down well with a little solution, and the carrier film is closely cropped and slightly glossy. As always, there are some removable Swastikas at the corner of the main sheet, and some two-part decals that can be made into Swastikas by the modeller in territories where that's a touchy subject. Conclusion A very nice rendition of the G-2 and a welcome reboxing, with suitably disparate schemes that should appeal to many out of the box. The surface detail on these kits is by now legendary, and the addition of the PE just improves on the basic kit, which is already excellent. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  18. Lemkits is working on a 1/32nd Messerschmitt Me P.1100/1 "Schnell Bomber" kit Source: https://www.facebook.com/andriy.lemkitscom/posts/2766797493579966 V.P.
  19. Bf.109G German Pilot, Seated (F48368 for Eduard) 1:48 CMK by Special Hobby A pilot figure in an aircraft model seems to have become superfluous to requirements for a lot of modern manufacturers, which forces us to peruse the aftermarket arena for a suitable candidate when the need arises. As usual with CMK's resin sets, they arrive in the familiar clear vacformed box, with the resin parts safely inside, and the instructions sandwiched between the header card at the rear. Decals and Photo-Etch (PE) when included is separated from the resin parts by a clear piece of acetate to prevent scratching and damage during transit. This resin set provides a single pilot that has been patterned to precisely fit the recent Eduard Bf.109Gs in 1:48, and comes in four parts on two casting blocks. The pilot’s torso, arms and upper legs are moulded into one part, while the lower legs and head are separate, the former having small pegs in the tops of the boots that key into depressions in the knees of the figure. The head slots into a socket, and could easily be adjusted to look to the side with some trimming of the resin peg. The instruction sheet shows the figure assembled in the cockpit, illustrating the fact that his seat is also moulded into the figure, making the fit a lot easier, especially as the shoulder-straps are also moulded-in. next to that photo is a list of paint colours for the various parts of the figure in English and Czech. Conclusion Sculpting and casting is excellent, with loads of detail just waiting to be picked out with your best paintbrush. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  20. Hello everybody, I want to show you my Me 262 C-1a. The Me 262 is one of the most beautiful aircraft designs for me. Construction: The Academy kit, released in 2007, contains a multitude of details and very interesting options, including alternative components for the Me 262 C-1a with a Walther rocket in the rear fuselage. Unfortunately, in my opinion, the nose shape failed completely, so an extensive cosmetic surgery has to be done. I also narrowed the fuselage at the top by approx. 1 mm, which means that the too wide canopy has to be exchanged for a deep-drawn one. An old canopy from a Hasegawa Me 262 served as a deep-drawing stamp. The rear fuselage is also suboptimal. Academy simply suppressed the opening for the Walther rocket and did not bulge the fuselage in this area enough. So this will be changed too. And because it is already work, I add a few details around the plane, for example extended flaps and slats. Original aircraft: My model shows the C-1a V186, as far as I know the only raketen schwalbe (rocket swallow) that has flown. In horizontal flight 934 km/h were achieved with additional thrust, making the V186 the fastest Me 262 ever flown (comparison A-1a: 870 km/h). With Heinz Bär in the cockpit, the aircraft shot down a P-47 that was flying over 8,000 m over Lechfeld airfield after about 3 minutes after start from runway. Source: asisbiz.com Painting: The paintjob was started as standard for me on an Alclad Airframe aluminum primer. After that preshading, three glazing layers per colour, painting scratches with a silver pin, intermediate finish with future, decals, washing, dust, oil paints, chalks etc. Walk around: Bottom view: Details: I hope you like my model. Criticism, notes, and comments are gladly welcome. Kai
  21. This is representation of Erla-built Bf 109G-14 "Black 13" from15./JG5 at Kjevik, Norway in 1945. All A.M.U.R. Reaver sets, such as spinner & airscrew, cowling and oil cooler fairing with radiator mesh were used. The plane had late-war finish with several shades of RLM76 on lower surfaces and 75/82 on top.
  22. A&A Models is to release in late October 2020 a 1/48th Messerschmitt Bf.109T1/T2 kit - ref. 4806 Source: https://www.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=2171578336320123&id=1048501705294464 Kit comes with decals for 5 liveries (2 x Bf109T2/ 3 x Bf.109T1), PE sheet, adhesive masks and 2 canopies (open/closed). Box art V.P.
  23. The model represents an airplane operated by one of my favorite Condor Legion fighters, Gothard Handrick in 1938. The model is well known to most, without any serious problems. Here's the picture.
  24. Immediately after the end of hostilities in Europe, the allied powers scoured Germany for the remnants of their advanced technology. The American's set up 'Project LUSTY, which stood for LUftwaffe Secert TechnologY. Col Harold E Watson, a qualified test pilot was selected to head the mission. He picked a number of pilots, all combat veteran's and all Thunderbolt pilots, experienced ground crew, both American and German along with several experienced German pilots. He also carried a signed pass by Dwight D Eisenhower, stating that no senior officer or military police could impede him in his work. Two teams formed, one went after the piston engine aircraft, the other, jets. It was the jet pilots who were named the 'Watson's Wizzers' and adopted the squadron embalm of Donald Duck flying around the Earth on a Juno 004 engine. Me 262A-1a/U3 'White 30' was captured at Lechfeld. It was named Marge by the 54th ADS, and then Lady Jess IV while with the Wizzers with the aircraft being the mount of Captain Kenneth Dahlstrom. Declared surplus, it was transferred to the US Navy and designated 121443. State side, the aircraft was turned over to the Tactical Test Division at NAS Patuxent River where she was made airworthy and attempted to be flown on November 7th 1945. Failing to become airborne, it crashed into trees at the end of the runway and was subsequently written off. Because of this accident, no further attempts to fly Me 262's was made by the TTD. This is the 1/48 Dragon kit, which is the reboxing of the 1990's Trimaster kit, but this did not include any photo etch parts. The molds are still holding up well although there was some cleaning up of the lower wing required. These kits are well detailed but do require some work with the engine nacelles being a well known tricky part of this model. Test fit everything before committing glue and you shouldn't have too many problems. Decals come from Cutting Edge's Crossdressing Stormbirds and the seatbelts from Lions Roar.
  25. Hello guys, here's my most recently completed model, Hobby Boss's Bf 109G-2 in 1:48.
×
×
  • Create New...