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  1. New Dora Wings project is a Miles Master family Mk.I/II & III, a target tower and an experimental fighter. Announced in three scales: 1/48th, 1/72nd and 1/144th. Source: https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=2254229254807639&id=1929101897320378 3D renders Miles M.9A Master I V.P.
  2. Dear fellow Britmodellers, here's my 1/72 Fine Molds Bf-109 K4 in markings of JG77, winter 1944/45. Painted with Mr.Hobby acrylics. Photographs by Wolfgang Rabel. The Fine Molds kit has excellent detail and good fit, which makes for a smooth build. I completed this model to reduce my stash and make room for the upcoming 1/72 Eduard Bf-109's that may be due in the coming years. I added a few etched parts (armored headrest, seatbelts, antennas) from a Brengun set and a pitot tube from Master. Decals are from the box, representing an aircraft of JG77 which took part in operation "Bodenplatte". Thanks for lookin'!
  3. Grand models is to release a 1/72nd Aermacchi M-346 Master resin kit - ref. ? Source: https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=4585133484899111&set=pb.100002075158254.-2207520000.. Test model & 3D printed parts V.P.
  4. I will try my luck here with the (too?) early Mirage 2000 model from ESCI, when it still had the prototype fin. The rest look ok for an early series C model as well. (apart from the wrong wing sweep that I cannot alter that is...) The nosecone is also the one pre-radar, so it correctly has access panel lines there! Mirage 2000-01 Prototype ESCI 1/48 + Eduard PE + Master pitot + weapons? we will see the raw material: and the original: https://images.dassault-aviation.com/f_auto,q_auto,g_center,dpr_auto/wp-auto-upload/2/files/2017/05/M2000-01_1er-voli.jpg decals look very ok to me! lets get started! Cheers, Werner
  5. I've quite liked the cute little IBG Models 1/700 Hunt II destroyers for a while and fancied building one or two, so I bought a couple. I desperately want something easy and relaxing rather than another deeply-involved chew that never gets finished. I appreciate that different people like different things and that being in a different place in life may mean there are more or less numerous competitors for time and energy but I'm almost maxed out on time at the moment. I say that because whilst cute, the IBG kits do look clunky in some areas; particularly the mast which looks rubbish and the weapons. Splinter shields are perhaps a bit thick but one has to draw the line somewhere. Trading money to save time, I've bought Micromaster and FineMoulds NanoDread replacement weapons as well as replacement brass masts and yardarms by Master supplied by Micromaster directly, MJW Models and Starling Models respectively. That's all that's happening to these kits - I do not plan to disappear down rabbit holes trying to improve anything else! This doesn't look quite so bad on the sprues but on the finished models these look like a great big Christian crucifix carried amidships And some more direct comparisons: I've also got quad Vickers 0.5in machine guns available: ... As well as single 20mm Oerlikons So, choice of subjects. Back when @dickrd gave me the National Archives file number for the Confidential Admiralty Fleet Orders and I learned about CAFO679/42 I've always compared destroyer and small ship schemes to the published standardised camouflage designs. One of the first I happened across which looked to be a direct match for a standard design was HMS Chiddingfold. Let's take a look... The original CAFO679/42 designs were printed in colour thus: We re-drew them like this: Whilst IWM FL8070 portrays HMS Chiddingfold like this: Sometimes these designs can almost be found on real ships but it's clear that it's been modified or colours substituted out somewhere. Might the dark panel forward be MS1 instead of 507A? Perhaps. The pixels are darker than the dark panel amidships, but it would not be the first time changing contours on a hull has misled the perceiver of black and white photographs. One of the kits is sold as HMS Middleton, and this one is another curiosity which piqued my interest: The artist who painted the box art has painted the ship blue and very pale grey. IBG have backed Hataka and Lifecolor, both of whom copied Snyder & Short's chips. They say: ...507A and MS3, for anyone who's neck doesn't bend 90 degrees. Now what's quite interesting about this is that I believe both the box artist and IBG's paint guide person are partially correct but I suspect neither knows why. Plate 38 of CAFO679/42 gives a Hunt Destroyer "Dark Admiralty Type" design with 2 colours in the same basic shapes as HMS Middleton, but it used MS1 (near black, as opposed to dark grey 507A) and MS3. Now let's compare to actual photographs of HMS Middleton: Now any fool can immediately spot two key problems with it as far as matching to Plate 38. Firstly, the stern isn't dark like the plate design. Secondly, whatever the darker paint on it is certainly isn't near black, so it can't possibly be MS1. Does that mean IBG is correct then? No, it doesn't. It means they haven't looked closely enough. Let's zoom in on that aft end: There's a demarcation there. It's subtle, but once seen cannot be unseen. It's apparent in this photo too, so it's not a feature of one particular image: This is a three-colour camouflage design, not a two-colour design. Now what do we do? Well, as it happens in October 1942 CAFO2146/42 was promulgated, and something happened which drew my atttention to it again a while ago. It said: It gave no diagrams, just tabulated conversions like this: ...which is fine but a little difficult to visualise so I decided to recycle all the illustrations from CAFO679/42 and make all the substitutions to produce a graphic representation to accompany CAFO2146/42. I found it has helped me a lot - but sticking with HMS Middleton for a moment, take a look at what happens to CAFO679/42's Plate 38 when converted to a "Dark Medium Tone" type design in accordance with CAFO2146/42's directions: and for direct and easy comparison here's HMS Middleton again. I think this is pretty convincing, personally. The apparently lighter front faces of each of the 4.7" twin mount shields is interesting though, and not something covered by the camouflage documents. There is then the matter of dates. The bum steer on IBG's instructions might possible be attributed to Iron Shipwrights' kit instructions which appear on the internet saying this. The dates are interesting and indeed one of the above photographs is captioned as having been taken during Op Neptune, which would be a remarkable lifespan for MS&B paints hinting that the design may have been carried forward to the G&B series, for which the equivalent tones would be B15, G20 and B30. B15 was a practical replacement for B5. G20 was a practical replacement for MS3. MS4 had the same tone as B6 and both were replaced by B30 which was more like B6 than MS4, so if the dates are correct then she may have looked more like this: The earliest photo I'm currently aware of showing HMS Middleton in this scheme is 4th August 1943, a few months after the promulgation of the new paints, however, sometimes the dates on the developed prints are known (again thanks to Richard) to be up to a couple of months after the date they were actually taken, and may be explained by who they were taken for and what purpose (e.g. for recognition purposes with our allies) and the time it may take for the recipient to get the films and annotate them. The annotated dates may refer to the date they were received rather than the dates taken, basically. I think there's still a reasonably good chance that those photographs claiming to show HMS Middleton at the beginning of August 1943 may depict the ship exactly as per CAFO 2146/42 in the last of the MS & B paints which were superseded that spring. Finally, a word of caution about the Imperial War Museum's photo library, and in particular their captions. Often the captions are wrong, and dates in particular are quite untrustworthy. Here is a great example. Someone has typed in 12 October 1943, whilst the photographs themselves have had 4.8.43 handwritten onto the film. It's quite unlikely someone back-dated the films on as a practical joke during the war, so it stands as a warning to at least question the captions rather than swallow them hook, line and sinker!
  6. After doing two consecutive builds ti finish on time before a competition where both models were rushed to the finish line I've had enough of deadlines for a while. From now on, or rather until august atleast I will not bother with time schedules but just doing things whenever I feel like it, in any order and on any kit. But, in order to reduce the stash a little I will off course start another kit, instead of carry on with another one at full focus. Not to worry, the Sea vixen WILL get a little more love before soon. Anyway, what do we have here then? Well, a Tamiya Mossie from the 90:s is not the most difficult of kits, so I need to complicate things a little bit more. Hence, a light load of aftermarket candy: Turned gun barrels, some resin for the cockpit (more about that later) and some rather tasty decals from Aviaeology. Only thing missing is off course some quickboost exhausts, but that will come in due time. 333Sqn seems to have been a rather busy bunch, venturing up and down the Norwegian coast looking for prey for the rest of the Banff Strike Wing to obliterate. I have not yet decided which one to do, but I have in my mind a dirty, beaten up old warhorse in Extra Dark Sea grey over Sky, with suitable amount of repaint here and there. It's oh so clear in my mind, i just need to make that happen in the meatspace... The Tamiya plastic sure is fine though! Ok, where to start then? Digging for references might be a good idea, and then prepare the cockpit for the resin pieces I guess. But for now, I need to head off to the office instead and do work. Too bad
  7. FAO @Stew Dapple here are the photos discussed earlier. I'm not very interested in making models of German stuff. I've nothing against Germans - I'm just not a rabid fan of anything with a black cross painted on like some, but I wanted to make one Fw190 to go with my Black Friday theme. In particular I wanted Rudi Linz's blue 4. Unfortunately due to my general disinterest in the basic subject matter and lack of attentiveness, I bought the wrong version of Fw190A and had started before realising it was useless. Ultimately, it sat in a mostly-assembled state on the Shelf of Doom for perhaps 2 years. This kit had so many fans that I was rather surprised to discover how poor a kit it truthfully is, and it seems that Eduard knew it was poor as well since they retooled what was not a very old tooling. I had, sadly, already bought the correct A-8 version in Weekend Edition form before getting too far in to this and I have to say I'm not looking forward to building it. The cockpit went together ok. I didn't use all of the Profipack photoetch because a) I'm not interested in Focke Wulfs and didn't want to add effort and b) much of it adds little value once it's all built up. The side consoles in particular are very nicely printed, but are flat slabs and a reasonably well painted plastic cockpit looks far superior, so that's what I did. The seat belts and instrument panels are all that's really needed IMHO. (note I followed the instructions above, but did realise they were back-to-front with the radio hatch and removed it to put the hinge at the back after this photo) Next confession - I really don't care for models showing everything open, and unfortunately that's the only way this kit is suitable to be built. I'd been forewarned, but the cannon bay hatches were a truely awful piece of model kit engineering. A lot of careful work was required to close them, and various braces and shims were added to prevent it all buckling out of shape when the wing complete-with glued in hatches was offered up to the fuselage later. The braces proved entirely necessary and were the results of many test fits. We Scots pride ourselves on having the best vocabulary of swear words and insults on Earth, and I needed to invent new ones for this kit... I cut away various bits of the kit to aide getting the wing and fuselage together. The wheel wells likewise were a swine to get together and let the wing halves close up. There was nothing fundamentally wrong with the design here, but the mould halves were slightly misaligned so all of the riblets inside the wheel wells were moulded askew and too deep without fettling. Not difficult, but again, for a subject that holds little interest it became tedious fairly quickly. Coming back to this photo, another part of the kit I absolutely hated was all this clutter inside the nose. As the supporting structure and ammunition chutes for the MG17 machine guns and engine mounts are all integrated and entirely designed to be displayed with all its guts hanging out, it was an utter pig to get it all to close up to look like an aircraft. Again, the moulding quality of the parts didn't match Eduard's ambitions for the kit. I ended up hacking away lots of that gun junk to allow the cover to fit. Unforunately that would still bite me later as the machine guns don't fit under the cover - so I would later have to saw the barrels off short. Anyway, I prevailed over the damn thing until it was assembled, fitted, filled, and ready to paint - then I put it in its box and forgot about it for 2 years. We've had a tidy up over the Christmas holiday, and I wanted to clear off some of this half-built stuff, so this thing was chosen to clear space for something that interests me better. 2 Days ago I sprayed it gloss black using our prototype solvent-thinned acrylic, then masked off for the white stripes on the cowlings. I didn't fancy decals for this. Colourcoats white enamel was sprayed on, then unmasked. Same for the yellow bit, then we went out for lunch. Using the black base I then sprayed the RLM 75 using Colourcoats ACLW14, then masked using Blutac and Tamiya tape, then the RLM 74 (ACLW13), then masked the wing fillets with Tamiya tape and sprayed the RLM 76 (ACLW15) otherwise freehand. I went back with the RLM 75 for mottling, freehand of course. This got me to the end of the first afternoon since retrieval from the SoD. Yesterday morning we had to go out, but at lunchtime I sprayed it clear gloss enamel then applied the kit decals. The decals were good and settled well with Microset and Microsol. Last night around 7ish I sprayed a clear matt enamel to seal them in. This morning I gave the matt clear coat a gentle polish with Infini Model's 2500 grit and 4000 grit polishing sponges to bring the matt back to a gentle satin, then stuck on the wheels, guns etc. The antenna is Infini Model lycra rigging line (40 denier / 0.068mm) in black. Exhaust stains are Tamiya weathering powders make-up sets. It's a bit of a half-baked effort, but as mentioned several times it's a subject I couldn't care less about frankly, and it's good enough to go on the shelf. And it's finished, and that's important.
  8. Here is a build of the Kinetic M-346 Master in the colours of the Republic of Singapore Air Force, albeit with a special scheme tail celebrating 20 years of training partnership with the French Air Force. In addition to the home-made decals for the tail, I also included the Yahu cockpit set. Aside from that, it's entirely from the box contents. Some of you will know that this is the first kit from the new "Gold Standard" in the Kinetic range and thus sets expectations for better quality. I think it meets mine and there really are no dramas putting the kit together, except the ones of your own making (e.g. trying to figure out the main undercarriage arrangements, just like the Rafale. You shouldn't need any filler and there's more than enough reference photos around for detailing beyond the kit. It's brush-painted with Hataka and Vallejo acrylics and finished with a Winsor & Newton matt varnish. Minimal weathering applied. My thanks to Tim for help with the tail decals. A delightful little kit of an interesting aircraft and I recommend you have a go at building one. As ever comments are welcome.
  9. My first F-14 on a 1/144 scale. I used the following add-ons Shelf Oddity – photoetched metal plate Res-im – resin elements Master – pitot tube
  10. Hello, Thought I'd start building something a bit more relaxing after the Flanker, so at the Moson show in Hungary I've bought this beautiful eduard's kit - with all the extras. I am planning to build it as opened as possible - engine, cockpit, radio, gunbays, misc. panels and so on. So, starting with the cutting, cleaning and thinning all the resin bits and pieces and dryfitting them over and over again. So, this is my Moson show loot, most of the parts here are for Spit. Too much of them really... So, brassin radio compartment with Aires cockpit test fitted... brassin parts just slot into the position, they fit the eduard kit perfectly. And Aires gunbays (just dryfitted, not glued yet) I think I will thin the plastic a bit more...
  11. Dear fellow Britmodellers, here's my 1/72 Airfix Hawker Typhoon IB, with CMK weapon bay, Eduard seatbelts and Master gun barrels added, representing the aircraft of Squadron Leader Basil Gerald, 247. (China-British) Squadron, 124. Wing, 2nd TAF, Eindhoven/Netherlands, in December 1944. Painted with Gunze/Mr.Hobby acrylics. Photographs by Wolfgang Rabel. Thank you for your interest in this topic. With best greetings from Vienna, Roman
  12. This is strange. I managed to finish another kit, without major distractions like starting another in the meantime? What'll happen next I wonder? Not buying more kits than I need or can finish within a year? (yeah, right) Anway, here's the rundown on this little Vulcan: The plastic is all GWH, with some plastic bits and pieces here and there in the wheel wells and entry ladder. I also added some piping to the undercarriage just to make it look a bit more interesting. The strange colors comes from a picture of XM657 (found in Wings of Fame) over a desert, probably during a Red Flag exercise in 1980 . It clearly shows a darker green on the fuselage, but not the whole tail , and this was my target to achieve. I did fail completely with the weathering and lost all interest in it at that time. Now, I'll call it finished, but maybe I'll come back to it at some later date to make a new approach to make it more lived in and "real" looking. Over to the picture: Here's the link to the WIP: During the recent C4 modelling competition in Malmö, this was was not even rated by the judges, so I guess I did something totally wrong with it. Critique and pointers in what I can do to make it better is much welcome!
  13. My first model from the Grat War Additives used Master Taurus The propeller was made by hand Painted Tamiya
  14. Are there any photos known of the Royal Navy miscellaneous types (Oxford, Master, TigerMoth, a.s.o) in TSS over yellow scheme or is Stinson Reliant the only type known to sport such a camouflage? My interest concerns 1939-45 period - also overseas. Cheers Michael
  15. Cartridges and Shells 1:35 Master The latest releases from Master Models in their series of cannon shells and cartridges have recently arrived at BMs London offices. Trouble is they are seriously small and very difficult to photograph now that my macro lens has given up the ghost. There are loads of uses in dioramas or vignettes for both the empty cartridge cases and loaded cases, not sure so much with the separate shells, unless you glue them to the cases. [GM-35-018] – This set contains 15 German 2cm ammunition (cal. 20x138B) for Flak 30/38, KwK 30/38 - shells and 5pcs each of 3 types of projectiles [GM-35-019] – As above, but includes 25 German 2cm ammunition (cal. 20x138B) for Flak 30/38, KwK 30/38 - empty shells [GM-35-021] – This set includes 25 cartridges for the Browning .50 calibre heavy machine gun. [GM-35-020] – As above, but includes 25 empty cartridges, great for being strewn around the floor of a M3 half track of the turret of a tank. Conclusion Here we have some really useful and well produced items. Very handy for your dioramas. Review sample courtesy of Piotr at
  16. Masts for the RMS Titanic and Olympic 1:350 Master Models Master models continue to build up their range of 1:350 scale accessory sets. They are well up to the standard we’ve come to expect from Master Models, but be aware, these items are very sharp, and once fitted to the model could catch someone’s face/eyes if there look too closely. [350-100] This set is designed for the Titanic and Olympic, doesn’t matter which manufacturer they are from. It consists of the foremast and main mast, gooseneck fittings for the foremast derrick, jackstaff and ensign staff. There is also a small etched sheet which contains a new crows nest and navigation light holder, for the foremast. You will need to add some reinforcement under the deck for the masts to sit in but this shouldn’t be a problem for most modellers. Once rigged, and the instructions show clearly how the masts are rigged, they will look much better than the plastic items in the kit which are quite oversized. Conclusion This is a nice easy way to give your big liners that little bit of finesse that makes a nice model look great. The masts are much more to scale than plastic can ever be moulded. With the addition of the other parts it will give that quality look to you r finished model. Review sample courtesy of Piotr at
  17. Pitot Probe for OV-10 Bronco 1:32 Master The latest release from Master Models in their series of replacement pitot probes have recently arrived at BMs London offices. It is well up to their usual standard and very sharp, so care should be taken once fitted. It is so much better than the styrene ones found in the kit. [AM-32-109] – Has been designed for the lovely North American OV-10 Bronco from Kitty Hawk Conclusion Master Models must have a tremendous machining set up to be able to produce these pitot probes and to produce them with such finesse. The always look great on the finished model. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of Piotr at
  18. Dornier Do335 and other Gun Barrels 1:32 Master Models The latest batch of items from Master Models included these three sets for 1:32 Do335’s, but can also be used on other aircraft in the same scale. As usual, they are beautifully turned and finished and are so much more realistic than the kit parts. [AM-32-106] – This set is for any German aircraft that used the Mk103 30mm cannon, such as the Do335 and Hs-129. The set includes turned brass barrels with 3D printed muzzle brakes turned brass mounting rings. The set contains two versions of cannon muzzle brakes. [AM-32-107 – This detail set has been designed for the HK Models 1:32 Dornier Do335 and contains turned brass MG-151 gun barrels, FuG 25a antenna and a pitot tube. [AM-32-108 – This detail set has been designed for the HK Models 1:32 Dornier Do335B-2 and contains turned brass MG-151and MK-103 gun barrels with muzzle brakes, FuG 25a antenna and a pitot tube. Conclusion Here we have another group of really useful and well produced items. All the sets are well up to standard we have come to expect from Master Models. All you have to do is a bit of research on what the particular aircraft you are modelling was fitted with and choose the correct set. Review sample courtesy of Piotr at
  19. FN Dunkerque/Strasburg Barrels 1:350 Master Models Master models continue to build up their range of 1:350 scale armament sets, but they are now increasing the items produced to add other accessories. As usual they are well up to the standard we’ve come to expect from Master Models. [350-101] - This set is for the Hobbyboss FN Dunkerque and Strasburg kits it includes both main, (330mm), secondary, (130”). These are all direct replacements for the kit parts, unlike the normal sets in which you just cut off the kit barrels, drill a hole and glue the metal barrels onto the remaining plastic parts, this set also includes resin mounts. You still need to drill out the resin parts to 1.9mm and 0.9mm respectively, and then you just add to the mounts within the turrets using the kit trunnion. [350-102] - This set is for the Hobbyboss FN Dunkerque and Strasburg kits, but can also be used on the Richelieu it includes four French training gun 90mm Model 1935. These are all direct replacements for the kit parts as they include a resin gun mount. You still need to drill out the resin parts to 0.3mm, and then you just add the barrel to the mounts and fit the recuperator to the top of the gun. [350-103] - This set is for the Hobbyboss FN Dunkerque and Strasburg kits, but can also be used on the Richelieu it includes four Twin Mount 37mm/50. Once again these are all direct replacements for the kit parts as they include a resin gun mount and etched details, for the seats and sights. You still need to drill out the resin parts to 0.3mm, and then you add the barrels to the mounts, carefully fold the etched part to shape and glue into place. [350-104] - This set is for the Hobbyboss FN Dunkerque and Strasburg kits, but can also be used on the Richelieu it includes four French Quad Mount Hotchkiss 13,2mm/76. As with the other sets these are all direct replacements for the kit parts as they include a resin gun mount and etched details, for the gun controls, mounting and sights. You still need to drill out the resin parts to 0.3mm, and then you add the barrels to the mounts, carefully fold the etched parts to shape and glue into place. Conclusion This is a nice easy way to give your big French battleships that little bit of finesse that makes a nice model look great. The metal barrels are much more to scale than plastic can ever be moulded and the smaller weaponry will look so much better with the added etched parts.. Review sample courtesy of Piotr at
  20. Scratchaeronautics is working on a 1/72nd Aermacchi M-346 Master/Lavi resin kit - ref. & Sources: https://www.facebook.com/Scratchaeronautics/posts/1411097498923303 Source: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M-346-MASTER-ESCALA-1-72-RESINA-DE-POLIURETANO-ITALIA/252716775735 Source: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M-346-LAVI-ESCALA-1-72-RESINA-DE-POLIURETANO-IAF/252716819305 V.P.
  21. AM-32-102 Spandau LMG 08 (with cooling jacket version 1). AM-32-103 Spandau LMG 08 (with cooling jacket version 2). AM-32-104 Spandau LMG 08 (with cooling jacket version 3). AM-32-105 Fokker E.II/III (Early) Ammunition feed chute with belt. 1:32 Master. The LMG 08 Spandau was produced and developed through several versions during the Great War. It was fitted to numerous German aircraft, single and multi seat, on both fixed and flexible mountings, though note that these kits are for the forward firing fixed mounting versions. With the current boom in the availability of 1:32 Great War aircraft, these new releases from Master-Model are applicable to numerous German machines, particularly those kits that only provide them as solid mouldings. These four sets come in beautifully presented packing designed to both protect and display the delicate parts. Three of the sets are for the LMG 08, the main variation between them being the style of fretted cooling jacket. The fourth set is specifically designed for the Wingnut Wings Fokker E.II and E.III, and offers a finely detailed ammunition feed to attach to one of the guns. The three guns all share the same resin body and etched brass fret, but with different etched brass cooling jackets, all of which are pre-rolled to shape. They are in fact fretted tubes without a seam, rather than rolled from flat pieces. A ‘rule of thumb’ when looking at versions of the LMG 08 is that the fewer the slots & holes in the cooling jacket, the later the version it is. This is because they were reduced in number in order to give greater structural rigidity. The catalogue numbers of these kits correspond, in that AM-32-102 / 103 / 104 go from early to late, and from left to right in the photo below; Two styles of sight are provided, the familiar circular 'ring' sight, and the less common oblong sight. Each of these can be made in either simplified or advanced forms. The simplified version has the sight and jacket end piece etched as a single part. The advanced version has a separate end piece for the jacket, and separate sights to mount more accurately on the cooling jacket itself. The advanced needs to be folded up to make a proper oblong 'wall' shape with very fine cross hairs in the middle, I.e. proper 3D rather than a flat etched piece. Use of a 'hold & fold' type tool will probably be needed to do this one. The gun barrel itself appears to be made from turned brass, and is provided with an alternative booster for the end. The etched brass fret also provides a mounting bracket and cocking handle, to which a small knob is fitted. A tip for when assembling these; do so in an upturned box lid on your workbench. Then when you drop any of these tiny parts, they will fall directly into the lid where you can easily find them again. All three LMG 08 sets contain the same parts as in the photo below, only the fretted cooling jackets differ; The final touch is supplied with a pair of resin ammunition belts, one full and one empty, for each side of the gun. (The belts fed from right to left). The detail on them is incredibly fine, even under a magnifying glass. AM-32-105 Ammunition feed chute with belt. This is a simple little set with a resin feed chute and etched brass plate to fit on top, complimented by the same resin empty/full ammunition belts seen in the guns. The reason for this is that the chute itself is hollow, enabling the modeller to feed in the separate ammo belt, which will be visible through the large oval slot. Thus greater fidelity and accuracy is achieved than is possible with a single injection moulded part. It is designed to fit on all of the guns mentioned above. The plastic part in the Wingnut Wings kit, which this set replaces; Conclusion. The Fokker E.II/E.III has its LMG mounted on top of the engine cowling, with an unobstructed view of it. The ammunition feed set and one of the guns will be a very worthwhile, if not essential, addition to the Wingnut Wings kits Most two seaters had a single forward firing fixed gun, whilst single seaters mostly had side by side pairs. As far as I know, only Wingnut Wings f offer etched brass LMG’s with their kits. These will ‘gild the lily’ on the WnW offerings, whilst being essential to the appropriate Roden, Special Hobby, etc kits. These really are very impressive, the level of detail is outstanding and they will certainly enhance and form the focal point on any Luftstreitkräfte aircraft. Highly Recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  22. RN Cruiser Zara barrels 1:350 Master Models With more and more 1:350 ship kits being released, Master Models are continuing to build up their range and keeping up with the ever increasing demand for barrels with a much better scale appearance [350-098] - This set is for the Trumpeter Italian cruiser Zara which not only includes both main, (203mm), secondary, (100mm), but also tertiary armament, (37mm and 13.2mm). These are all direct replacements for the kit parts, and will need the removal of the kit barrels before drilling appropriate sized hole, (0.8mm for the 203mm, 0.5mm for the 100mm, 0.3mm for the 37 and 13.2mm guns), into the breech for the tang of the barrel to be glued into. As you can probably imagine the smaller calibre barrels are extremely small and fiddly, but they will certainly add the scale look of the completed model when fitted. Conclusion The barrels for the Zara are well up to the standards we’ve come to expect from Master Models, with the added distinction of being some of the smallest turned parts I’ve seen in 1:350. Review sample courtesy of Piotr at
  23. USS Alaska/Guam Barrels 1:350 Master Models Master models continue to build up their range of 1:350 scale armament sets, but they are now increasing the items produced to add other accessories. As usual they are well up to the standard we’ve come to expect from Master Models. [350-099] - This set is for the Trumpeter USS Alaska and USS Guam kits it includes both main, (12”), secondary, (5”). These are all direct replacements for the kit parts, unlike the normal sets in which you just cut off the kit barrels, drill a hole and glue the metal barrels onto the remaining plastic parts, this set also includes resin trunnions. You still need to drill out the resin parts to 1.6mm and 0.9mm respectively, and then you just add to the trunnion mounts within the turrets. For the 40mm and 20mm guns Master already do replacement sets and even complete mounts for these, so are not included in this set. Conclusion This is a nice easy way to give your Alaska/Guam kits that little bit of finesse that makes a nice model look great. The metal barrels are much more to scale than plastic can ever be moulded. Review sample courtesy of Piotr at
  24. Hi all, I will join this GB with Italeri's MiG-29A. I'll do a super-detailed build using Aires' resin cockpit, exhaust nozzles and air-brakes, Arma Hobby's resin nose and closed upper air intakes, and Master's brass pitot tube and static dischargers. I have already all the items, except the static dischargers, which should arrive next week. I'll build a soviet machine from the 1980's as displayed in the Farnborough Air Show. I'll use the kit's decals. Here's the box: IMAG4776 The sprues: IMAG4777 IMAG4778 The transparent parts, which look good enough, as I'll pose the canopy open: IMAG4779 The decals, which don't come with many stencils: IMAG4780 The resin cockpit, which also comes with a PE fret for the instrument panel and other details: IMAG4781 The resin exhaust nozzles, which also come with a small PE fret for the flame holders: IMAG4782 The resin air-brakes: IMAG4783 The resin nose cone and closed upper air intakes: IMAG4784 As I will display the aircraft in a parked position, with open canopy and air-brakes, should the main and upper intakes be all closed? Finally, the brass pitot tube: I will need some time to plan the build, especially regarding the insertion of the resin parts and the detailed painting of the cockpit, before I get back here with progress reports. Thanks for looking. Jaime
  25. French Pre-Dreadnought Danton Gun Set 1:350 Master Models A new month and a new set of barrels as Master models continue to build up their range of 1:350 scale armament sets. This set is for the recently released Hobbyboss French pre-dreadnought battleship Danton. As usual they are well up to the standard we’ve come to expect from Master Models. [350-097] The guns in the kit are pretty good for injection moulded parts, but you can’t beat some finely machine turned brass barrels to add that extra finesse to the model. In this set you get four 305mm aluminium barrels, twelve 240mm aluminium barrels, sixteen 75mm brass barrels and twelve 47mm brass barrels. The set also includes six resin trunnion mounts for the 240mm barrels and two for the 305mm barrels. These replace the trunnions in the kit. You will need to cut the kit barrels from the 75mm and 47mm mountings and drill appropriate sized holes both 0.5” and 0.3”. Conclusion Master models just amaze me how they continue to churn these sets out and keep the quality so high, just what you need to give your model a lift. Review sample courtesy of Piotr at
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