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Russian Red Stars 1:48 Maketar These masks are for Russian Red Stars with, and without outlines. Vol I comprises Star Sizes: 700-800-900-1000-1100-1200mm - Total of 36 masks - Red Stars. Vol II comprises Star Sizes: 700-800-900-1000-1100-1200mm - Total of 36 masks - Red Stars with black outline. Vol III comprises Star Sizes: 700-800-900-1000-1100-1200mm - Total of 36 masks - Red Stars with Yellow & Black outlines. There are no instructions but then they are not really needed. Recommended for those who don't like decals, or if you want the true painted on look for your Soviet models. Stars without outline Stars with Black outline Stars with White & Yellow outline Review sample courtesy of

US Insignia 1947 to present. 1:48 Maketar These masks are for US Insignia post 1947. They are available in either vinyl or yellow Kabuki tape. The advantage with the tape ones is that they are lower tack and much easier to reposition if you get things wrong. They also seem to last a long time so will be suitable for multiple models. Vol I comprises 6 masks of each size 15", 20", 25", 30", 35", 40", 45", 50" and 55" Vol II comprises 6 masks of each size 14", 16", 33", 36" and 38" There are no instructions but then they are not really needed. Recommended for those who don't like decals, or if you want the true painted on look for your US models. VOL.I VOL.II Review sample courtesy of

He-219 — Hs-129 — Me-410 – Code letters and numbers – Regular & Outlined 1:32 Maketar These masks are for the code letters and number for all three aircraft types. They have fuselage regular + small numbers and letters. Fuselage regular + outlined numbers and letters. Also underwing letters and numbers. The masks come on 8 sheets in total. 4 masks for each individual letter & numbers. With a total of 432 letters and numbers. They are available in either vinyl or yellow Kabuki tape. The advantage with the tape ones is that they are lower tack and much easier to reposition if you get things wrong. They also seem to last a long time so will be suitable for multiple models. There are no instructions but then they are not really needed. Recommended for those who don't like decals, or if you want the true painted on look for your large scale Luftwaffe models. Review sample courtesy of

Hawker Typhoon Mk.IB Replacement Masks for Airfix Kit Decals 1:24 Maketar These masks are direct replacements for the markings provided by Airfix in the kit. In addition you get a set of canopy masks and a set of wheel masks. The masks come on four main sheets for the markings and a separate sheet for the canopy and wheel masks. They are available in either vinyl or yellow Kabuki tape. The advantage with the tape ones is that they are lower tack and much easier to reposition if you get things wrong. There are no instructions but then they are not really needed. Recommended for those who don't like decals or if you want the true painted on look for your large scale Typhoon. Review sample courtesy of

I've always wanted to build a fairly large diorama, in something like 1:350 scale, and the Mulberry Harbour at Arromanches in the weeks after D-Day was a favourite choice for me. I have all the spud pontoons etc. from L'Arsenal, but didn't have any bridge or gantry sections and these are paramount if building the harbour. There is also a problem in that you need lots of them. I've tried scratchbuilding these parts myself but I could never get two spars or sections to be exactly alike in either length or thickness. I then came across a thread on a railway modelling site, about cutting your own pieces from plastic sheet with a cutting machine. After reading that thread a few times I went and bought a cutting machine and after a few days of learning how it works and dabbling with the software, I scanned a diagram of the bridge section into my PC and after tidying up it looked like this: In 1:350 scale this bridge span is only 2.75 in (7cm) long. I drew vectored lines along those of the scanned image, in order for the cutter to recognise where to cut. Once I had completed the images, I duplicated it 27 more times until I had filled the size of an A4 sheet of 0.25mm plastic card. When the layout was ready I hit the 'cut' key. There's not really much to see here but this is the sheet after it has been cut. You should just be able to see all the cut lines on the sheet. The cutting mat has a sticky top side to it which is necessary to hold the sheet in exactly the same place whilst making multiple cuts. The next task is to lift the waste part of the sheet away from the cut sections. Here we have the 28 bridge spans, plus some end-plates, all cut out to cleanly and exactly to the same dimensions. This would have been a right mess if I had tried cutting all these with a modelling knife! The parts tend to bend (as with any cut plastic) but can be easily flattened. And now for some 'Assembally' (for those who watched New Yankee Workshop!) Look, my own construction kit! The built model. Unfortunately my camera doesn't like white plastic...... So I've given it a spray of primer and stuck a couple of 1:350 ambulances onto it. Just like the Normandy photo! So there you go, who needs expensive PE or aftermarket (which is usually produced to fit a specific model only) when you can cut your own? Another major benefit, especially here with all these bridge sections, is that once you have made your template you can produce more and more as you want them, all to the exact same shape. Another benefit is that although this has been produced to 1:350 scale the drawing can be up-scaled to what ever size needed, such as 1:76 or 1:35 etc., and is only limited to the cutter aperture which in this case is 15 inches. The cutter also cuts masks and decals, in fact it is probably only limited to your imagination! Check through the link again to see what they say about the different types of cutters that are out there. There are quite a few different types and prices but most are able to cut masks, decals and thin plastic sheet. I've only been playing with the cutter for a week (this build was a bit of a rush test and only took about 2 hours so imagine the standard if I spent some time and effort to make a quality build.) so don't know yet how thick a piece of plastic sheet it can cut. This bridge was made from 0.25mm sheet, which is about right for bridge spans in 1:350 scale and the cutter took two passes to cut through (you can set the cutter to make multiple passes if the material is tough). Hope you enjoyed this and perhaps it has given you the inspiration to look at building models, or parts, from a different viewpoint. cheers Mike

I've just started having a go at cutting my own masks but I don't have the proper materials. So far I am using wide Tamiya type tape but I'd like to have a go with proper mask material, with the peel off backing. Can anyone here advise me where I could obtain these sheets please? Mike

After some effort I have completed a set of vinyl masks "B" pattern. I can do "A" by a simple invert. I have done the markings for ZP-A so have 1940 Roundels. I am looking for testers to comment, use a set of masks and send me pics with feedback and comments. I'll pay for the postage of the masks. Please PM if you are about to start a Spit build and are serious about being a tester. I am looking for people who can critique and give suggestions, as modellers how to improve, change, etc. No immediate plans to market said masks but who knows.... I wanted something better than decals and the freedom to customise my paint schemes. I have tried to stay true to actual Spitfire camo issued during the start of the war. I have done my best also co compare as many B&W photos as possible. I have yet to do some instructions but its not that complicated. I hope this is in the right place and is not offensive to the group.

RAF Roundels Paint Mask Set A1 1:32 Raikisan! When the painting is finished and the decals are going on ok, but you really can’t that painted on look you are striving for, the only way forward is to actually paint them on. A new company, new to me at least has begun producing masks for just such a product. The set reviewed here is the RAF roundel Type A1 and provides a selection of roundels in different sizes. Cut out of a green kabuki type tape the there are the following types included:- 35” x 12 49” x 8 56 x 6 The instructions are simple and straight forward. 1. Place the pre-cut square mask that surrounds each roundel into the desired position. Spray a light coat of white, although this can be preceded by a light coat of grey primer. Leave to dry 2. Place all the ring masks into position ensuring they are aligned correctly. 3. Remove the outer ring and spray the yellow and leave to dry. 4. Replace outer ring and remove next ring in. Spray the blue and leave to dry. 5. Replace the blue ring and remove the middle disc. Spray the red colour and leave to dry. 6. Carefully remove all the masks and the completed roundel will be revealed. Conclusion Although they take a little time and require some care in getting aligned you just can’t beat the look of painted on markings, and this set will be very useful for the modeller who wants it just right. Raikisan already have a good selection of roundel masks suitable for all eras available on their website. Very highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

Kabuki Mask sets Eduard 1:32 In continuing to increase their range of pre-cut masks, Eduard are helping to improve the lot of the average modeller. No more trial and error in getting the masking tape cut to the right shape or making up a large mask with lots of small strips. The Kabuki low tack tape used not only allows great flexibility it also means that there won't be any sticky mess left on the cockpit transparencies when removed. The individual sheets are contained in the standard, small, flat, self sealing sleeves, backed by card. Each sheet comes with a set of instructions. As is now usual, Eduard have provided masks which only protect the edges of large transparencies with the modeller having to fill in the rest with either their own tape of masking liquid. As has been stated in other reviews some of these masking fluids contain ammonia which may dissolve any acrylic varnishes the transparencies have been dipped in, so be warned. These latest selections of releases are for 1:32 scale aircraft. Revell Supermarine Spitfire Mk.II Kitty Hawk NA T-6 Texan/Harvard Trumpeter Grumman A-6A Intruder HK Models Gloster Meteor Mk.4 Review sample courtesy of

Lancaster B.II - Etch & Canopy Masks for the Airfix Kit Eduard 1:72 With the release last year of the excellent B.II radial engine Lancaster from Airfix, Eduard have come up trumps with some improvement accessories to improve both the exterior and interior of the kit. Four sets are being reviewed here, exterior, interior, dedicated flap replacements and the budget Zoom set that focusses on the cockpit interior. Also included is the canopy mask set which for me at least is as integral to model building as glue and paint these days! Lancaster B.II Landing Flaps (Set 72578) Whilst the Airfix kit is already blessed with an open flap option, the limitations of injection moulding mean that there is some scope for improvement in terms of scale finesse. This comprehensive set from Eduard provides that solution. Obviously, to use this set, filing of the existing detail is necessary as well as levelling the surface to apply the etch to. Some plastic or brass rod of 0.8mm and 0.3mm diameter is also required in the instructions but not supplied. As the flaps are the same as the B.I/III, there is no reason why they can't be used on the other Airfix Lancaster variants too. More information can be seen in the online instructions provided by Eduard - HERE Lancaster B.II Exterior (Set 72566) The exterior gets a well thought out selection of improvements. The landing gear bays and doors get some intricate additions and both the main and tail wheel legs are treated to the etch touch including brake lines. The radial engines in the Airfix kit are a little lacking in detail in my opinion, so the attention of them is well deserved. They are routed from the rear of the cylinders. I've seen pictures of some framework in front of the Hercules engines on the Halifax that WEM have in their B.III etch set, however I'm not sure whether this was also present on the Lancaster B.II. Some other improvements include the upper fuselage escape hatches, trim tab control rods and oil cooler mesh faces. For more information, see HERE Lancaster B.II Interior (Set 73492) Again, Eduard have found some creative ways to add detail where it matters, this time inside the aircraft. The cockpit area gets a complete makeover, with a highly detailed pilots seat and wealth of controls and panels that are on show under that greenhouse! This attention to detail goes back into the navigators and wireless operators area too. Further areas of focus include the bomb aimers location with more panels and some enhancements to the front and rear turrets. The panels are provided on pre-painted self adhesive etch to aid assembly into the aircraft. Some kit detail will need to be removed from the surfaces before assembly of these parts. for more information, see HERE Lancaster B.II Interior Zoom (Set SS492) The zoom set is a budget alternative to the interior set above. It provides the pre-painted self adhesive etch fret shown above hence primarily focusses on the panels inside the cockpit and bomb aimer locations including throttle quadrants. For more information, see HERE Lancaster B.II Flexible Paint Masks (CX372) If you hate masking like I do, you will welcome this set, especially given the wealth of clear parts on the Lancaster. Two sheets of pre-cut parts are provided in the pack and include wheel masks too. As the transparencies on the B.II are common with the B.I/III, they can be used on any of the airfix kits. Conclusion There is no doubt that Airfix have released a great kit in its own right, however these sets do allow you to take it to another level by utilising the benefits that etch can provide over the injection moulded parts. Obviously, some of the parts and the preparation needed to fit them requires a higher skill level, but if you are a fan of the B.II, then they are certainly something to consider when you build one. Review sample courtesy of

Bell X-1 Decals and Stencils 1:32 MH Models Now, MH Models are new to this reviewer and I was passed this set from another BM member who received them from the company. They appear to be a Czech form of Local Model Shop that has decided to produce their own decals and masks. As a first effort I think they have done very well. Inside the ziplock poly bag you will find quite a large sheet of paint masks and a small, but well filled decal sheet. The decals are very well printed in good register and with minimal carrier film. They look very thin and only usage will determine how they adhere and settle down, hopefully without breaking up. There are decals and masks for other Bell X-1s in the program not just Chuck Yeager’s aircraft. There is a full set of stencils for both the exterior of the aircraft and the cockpit, along with the famous name, us titles, test site name and the Bell Aircraft logo. The larger items, such as the national insignia, photographic crosses, identification codes etc come in the form of paint masks which are pretty easy to use once you have found the correct colours. The instructions only show the markings for Glamorous Glennis so research will need to be carried out if other aircraft are to be modelled. Conclusion As stated above, for a first product I think MH Models have done very well. The masks are die cut, so easy to remove from their backing sheet and the decals are very well printed. Apart from the extra research required for the other X-1s I’m quite happy to recommend them to anyone who has the 1:32 kit. Sample provided by MH Models

Flexible Die-Cut Masks 1:48/1:32 Eduard In continuing to increase their range of pre-cut masks, Eduard are helping to improve the lot of the average modeller. No more trial and error in getting the masking tape cut to the right shape or making up a large mask with lots of small strips. The Kabuki low tack tape used not only allows great flexibility it also means that their won't be any sticky mess left on the cockpit transparencies when removed. The individual sheets are contained in the standard, small, flat, self sealing sleeves, backed by card. Each sheet comes with a set of instructions. As is now usual Eduard have provided masks which only protect the edges of large transparencies with the modeller having to fill in the rest with either their own tape of masking liquid. As has been stated in other reviews some of these masking fluids contain ammonia which may dissolve any acrylic varnishes the transparencies have been dipped in, so be warned. This latest selection of releases include 1:48 and 1:32 scale aircraft. 1:48 Seafire F Mk 15 (Special Hobby) EX356 EA-18G (Hasegawa) EX373 Mig-29 (Great Wall Hobby) EX382 Jaguar A (Kitty Hawk) EX386 1:32 BAe Hawk 100/128 (Kitty Hawk) JX148 Conclusion Another nice selection of masks that cover some of the latest model releases. Highly recommended

IL-2M3 Shturmovik Update Sets (for Tamiya) 1:48 Eduard Since Tamiya treated to the wonderful new Shturmovik earlier in the year (reviewed here), Eduard have already followed up with aftermarket wheels and a bomb set. Now we have these new Photo-Etch (PE) sets to improve the basic kit further. General Set (49607) A two fret set, one of which is pre-painted and self-adhesive, measuring 7cm x 4cm, and a bare brass fret that is 7.5cm x 7cm. It covers various areas of the kit that could do with a little "spruce up", and begins with the cockpit instrument panel, which has new full-colour instrument panels replacing the moulded in detail, plus a full set of seatbelts for the pilot, and the large strap that doubles as a seat for the rear gunner. The pilot's rudder pedals are replaced by new PE parts, and his side-walls and consoles are all give addition detail. Some additional sill detail for the cockpit fore and aft is provided, as well as a few additional controls that glue directly to the inside of the fuselage. The rear gunner's weapon is updated with a delicate sighting mechanism, side and top plate to the breech and a length of link to replace the kit supplied bullets. The oil-cooler positioned on the underside of the aircraft receives etched grilles, as well as replacement splitters, the arrangement of which will take a little delicate work. The main gear bays also gain a few additional detail panels, plus hinges for the bay doors, and closing mechanism details. The gear legs get various hoses, plus some triangular parts that rest near the base of the retraction jack. The kit supplied bombs all get PE spinners for their noses and tails, with the larger FAB 250kg triplet also benefitting from harness detail and stabiliser fin braces. The little RS132 rockets also receive spinners for their noses, and their racks have their chunky mounting pins shaved off and replaced by a PE runner skin. A small piece added to the rear of the rack depicts the ignition wire. Zoom Set (FE607) For the budget conscious or novice PE user, the Zoom set provides all of the parts on the small pre-painted self-adhesive sheet, which will allow the modeller to sharpen up the cockpit without breaking the bank or getting involved in heavy folding. The self-adhesive aspect also leaves out the worry of super-glue grabbing a part before you have had time to position it properly. Landing Flaps The Shturmovik has sizeable landing flaps buried in the lower inner wing, and these are moulded closed in the Tamiya kit. In order to open them up, Eduard have produced this set, which provides bays for the wing in PE, as well as brand new PE flap parts with rib detail on one large sheet measuring 14.5cm x 9.5cm. Initially the instructions aren't too clear on which parts you need to remove or thin, mainly because of the similarity of the shades of grey used to denote the difference. The short version is that the lined flap section on the underside of the wings and the flap section etched into the lower wing centre should be removed, and the inner surface of the upper wing needs some dramatic thinning to accommodate the new internals. The flap bay sections are built up into two units outside the wing, and are then added along with some lengths of wire that you will need to source, to simulate the workings. The flaps themselves are then built up, with ribs and stringers keeping the part rigid once glued in place. Some strengthening gussets (no sniggering at the back!) are added , and then the two parts of the mechanism are mated, with a set of uprights that are added to the bay roof helping to hold everything to the correct angle. Adding this candid detail to your Shturmovik will certainly make it stand out from the crowd, but you'll need to do quite a bit of scraping and sanding to the underside of the wing to ensure a good fit. Mask Set (EX360) As well as providing a full set of pre-cut tailored masks for the greenhouse canopy of the IL-2, it also provides a set of masks for the wheels to assist with painting, having four large ones for the main wheels, and a pair of notched smaller hub-shapes for the tail wheel, avoiding the yoke. Well worth the punt if your masking skills aren't up to scratch. Review sample courtesy of

Vickers Valiant Bk.Mk.1 Update Sets (for Airfix) 1:72 Eduard The highly anticipated Valiant kit has been knocking about the shelves now for some time, and so have a couple of these Photo-Etch (PE) sets. The rest are brand new, fresh from the Eduard stables, and will give your Airfix kit a boost, correcting some of the inaccuracies and less detailed parts that are found within the kit. Cockpit Set (73428) You can't see a massive amount of the interior of the Valiant when the canopy is applied and painted, but if you're planning on lighting it, or leaving the canopy loose to show off your work, or you have a "well I know it's there" moment, like we're all prone to, then this is a good set for you. The self-adhesive pre-painted sheet measures 7cm x 5.3cm, while the unpainted brass set is 8.3cm x 7cm. The painted sheet contains a full set of laminated PE instrument panels for the pilots, a set of side consoles and even a small console that resides in the roof area. You'll need to remove the existing detail before proceeding, as well as all of the seat location tabs that are present on the cockpit floor. The pilots get a set of rudder pedals each, and the steering yokes receive slim PE replacement wheels There is also a detailed set of instrument "boxes" for the rear-seat crew, which will be visible if you plan on leaving the crew access door open. Some additional panels are also placed within the fuselage sides to busy up the area, also the massive cable-run and busy boxes on the starboard wall aren't fully represented. A pair of painted Emergency Exit signs are placed above the porthole, just to finish off the area. The crew seats are all a little bit simplified as supplied with the kit, and although the front seats could do with a major overhaul, they receive a set of details for their rears, presumably because that is what will most likely be seen. The rear-seater get a completely new trio of seats, made entirely of PE parts, including the missing tube-work legs and thin back supports. I'm not 100% convinced of the back of the chairs being totally accurate, but they are certainly a much better option than the kit parts. Some nicely done steps up to the forward cabin are included, as well as a small table with "something" cylindrical sat on it. That has a few further lumps and bumps on it, so if you're feeling adventurous you could add them using your references. The final section that is decked out is the rear periscope that resides in the tapering part of the cockpit roof. It replaces all the moulded in solid protection bars with PE parts, although it doesn't provide you with the periscope itself. Interestingly, the instructions tell you to cut the rear floor from the front, using the large skin with an L-shaped spur on the bottom to set the rear cockpit area back 1mm. I seem to recall somewhere that the rear cockpit was a little too close to the door, and this is perhaps Eduard's attempt to fix that issue. Some strengthening styrene sheet might be a good idea to stop the two halves flapping about once installed however. As you might have guessed from this review, I have been scouting the Valiant's cockpit for quite a while, which was in preparation for my (now stalled) build that you can find here, which was done before Eduard came along and helped save us all some time. Cockpit Zoom Set (SS428) This "cut down" set includes the self-adhesive pre-painted set detailed in the review above, and is perfect for either the budget conscious modeller or someone making their first forays into working with PE. Seatbelt Set (73450) If you're going to spend some time on the cockpit, you might as well add all of the seatbelts to go with it. The instructions show the parts being applied to the vanilla kit parts, but if you're adding the cockpit set, they can just as easily be used with the replacements mentioned above. The 5cm x 3.5cm fret is pre-painted, and is very detailed, although necessarily tiny. Undercarriage Set (72541) The kit landing gear bays are somewhat fictional in places, and to address this, you can use this set which goes a long way toward correcting the major issues on a fret that is 14cm x 9cm. The Main gear wells receive a roof skin that has the correct rivets rather than those ribs seen on the kit, and adds some wall skins to do the same for those. A complex tangle of parts sits at one end of the bay's large rib, which is the only detail within the bay that is retained. Scraping of the kit detail away will be tricky because of the sidewalls, but a small curved knife blade should do the job well enough. The gear bay doors also have fictional detail included, which is to be removed before installing the new skins to the insides, improving detail no end. The nose bay suffers from being too wide, and a little shallow (IMHO), and although Eduard haven't addressed that aspect of the kit, they have provided some nice detail to improve the look. A tricky part needs removing in the roof of the bay, which will again require some careful scraping unless you have a Dremel. The sidewalls also receive new skins, and detail parts that aren't present on the kit offering, and the gear bay covers are skinned with more realistic riveted doors. The towel-rail antennas on the starboard door is replaced by three stand-off parts, and you will need a fine piece of 0.15mm wire to finish off the job. The final parts improve the look of the mounting for the nose gear leg, and add an etched oleo-leg scissor to make it look a little more accurate. Surface Panel Set (72539) This self-adhesive set measures 14cm x 9.3cm, and is an improvement set to give the outer skin of this Cold-War V-bomber a more realistic look. It includes a set of PE vortex generators for the tail and upper wing, which come with their own templates to ensure they are placed correctly. There are a myriad of other panels dotted around the airframe, and some rather large sections attach to the underside of the ailerons, which have tiny dots etched into them. Some new airbrakes on the underside of the wing are also included, which begs the question "should I show them deployed?", although I'm unsure whether they were used at this time. A myriad of smaller parts are applied around the blended engine nacelles, depicting the maintenance access-ports used for dropping out the Avon engines out of the wings. Similarly, on the fuselage spine there are a number of parts applied there that are involved in the loading and unloading of munitions in the bomb bay. Mask Set (CX299) The Valiant had little glazing due to their initial nuclear weapons delivery role, but it does have some interesting shaped windows that are tricky to mask, especially the triple paned section on the quarter panel with its curved top and bottom sections. To fill the sheet, a set of masks for the nose-wheel pair are included, as these have moulded in mudguard detail that will make them tricky to paint. Well worth a look if masking drives you potty! Conclusion The additional detail provided by these sets will make your Valiant stand out from the crowd, and will doubtless set some of us thinking about how best to display all that lovely cockpit detail. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of

B-25J Update Sets (for HK Models) 1:32 Eduard The large scale B-25J from new company HK Models has been very well received, including by this reviewer (review here). Of course it was always going to be improved on (isn't every kit?) and Eduard have stepped up to the plate with a myriad of Photo-Etch (PE) sets for you to pick and choose from to do just that. Cockpit Interior Set (32748) The first set deals with the cockpit, and comes on two sheets of PE. The smaller sheet, at 7cm x 8cm is pre-painted and self-adhesive. It contains the parts for improving the detail and providing a set of new instrument panels made up from layered PE that gives dials, bezels, buttons and switch details, plus sub-panels and rudder pedals, all of which attach to the original kit part M10 after some of the detail is removed. The cockpit floor gets a number of raised panels with additional detail etched into them, and the centre floor panel between the pilot seats receives a significant number of extra parts to busy it up and improve the look. The throttle quadrant is overhauled with a new set of detail parts for the throttle body, and a more detailed top with the slots for the levers, as well as the levers themselves, all pre-painted the appropriate colours. The seats receive extra detail in the form of skins to the sides, a strengthener at the back where the two angles meet, and optional head and back armour for the pilot's seat only. The cockpit sidewalls are detailed with plenty of small instrument boxes, as well as brackets and sill details that require some of the moulded-in detail to be shaved off first. All of the instruments have pre-painted faces, so the detail should look stunning for the intrepid viewer. A set of parts is also included for the overhead controls in the canopy area, detailing what is otherwise quite a blank canvas. There are possible seat shape issues with the HK kit that have been identified around the internet, and there is an additional set that replaces the kit seats completely if accuracy is paramount. These will be reviewed later in this article. Zoom Cockpit Set (33112) This "cut down" set includes the self-adhesive pre-painted set detailed in the review above, and is perfect for either the budget conscious modeller or someone making their first forays into working with PE. Why is says for "Hobby Boss" on the label and website is a bit confusing though. Perhaps a typo? Seatbelt Set (32746) This descriptive set contains sufficient parts to create two sets of seatbelts for the pilot and co-pilot, with full belt and buckle detail, on a pre-painted fret that measures 9.3cm x 7cm. The painting/printing includes the stitching work, as well as the stencilling that is often seen on these items. The buckles and fasteners are left bare to give the ultimate in real metal look, and don't forget to give them a coat of clear gloss varnish if you want them to remain untarnished over the years. The building of these belts involves threading the various parts through the buckles to result in a very realistic looking buckle. Take care in bending the painted parts however, bending them slowly to avoid cracking the paint, exposing the bare metal where it won't look good. Similarly, the rear of the belts aren't painted, so if you plan on posing any twisted around, you will need to find a matching sandy shade to paint the rears. Corrected Pilot Seats (32750) Shape issues have been noted with the seats supplied with the kit, and looking at the cut-down nature of the co-pilot's seat, it would appear that symmetrically paired seats might not be appropriate for all airframes, although finding pictures of the cut-down co-pilot's seat online is proving tricky. Perhaps more research on my part is needed. The set measures 14cm x 7cm, and includes a full-height pilot seat, plus a cut-down second-seater, with highly detailed mounting frames and rails, improving on the original kit parts. You will need a length of 1.2mm rod to complete the task, so make sure you have stock before commencing assembly, as the seats have these running up the rear in each corner, attached by PE brackets and flanges. Detail parts are added to the rear of the seats, and a diagonal section is inserted in the inside of the seat and has two lightening holes etched in. Some complex folds and shaping is required with this set, so it isn't for the novice. Whether you want to show your B-25 having dissimilar seats is also another question you need to ask before purchase too. The extra detail is definitely worth it if you decide to go ahead though. Front Interior (32747) A more appropriate description would be "Nose area Interior", as that is what the set deals with. It comes on two frets, with one self-adhesive and pre-painted with instrument dials etc. It measures 7cm x 6cm, and is supplied on a waxy paper to prevent accidental adhesion. The larger bare brass fret measures 14.5cm x 7cm, and contains all of the constructional parts of the set. It starts with detail parts for the rear bulkhead and crawl space, adding a full skin to the floor, with lots of rivet and panel line details. A raised section of the floor is also included, together with the controls that it contains, and a jump-seat to sit on top of a couple of ammo-boxes. The sidewalls are similarly detailed with boxes containing instruments, stowage areas and various brackets, while the bomb-sight receives lots of detail parts to improve its look. The two nose mounted .50cal Brownings receive PE cooling jackets, which will need careful rolling on a soft surface to render them cylindrical. Their mounts are changed to the more accurate suspension mount, with the A-frame removed from the handles of part I10, and their hand-grips are augmented with more scale attachment points, with a ring-sight added to the upper breech area. If you are going to be entirely faithful, you will need to put wires running to the breeches from the pulleys that you install in the glazing parts. This would be a little tricky, but the finished effect would be something special. Fuselage Interior (32756) From inside the bag, this set is deception, appearing to have only two frets, but in fact it has three – one is hidden amongst the card backing. It is a large set, and contains a pair of large brass frets sized 14.5cm x 10cm and 14cm x 9cm, with a small pre-painted fret 7cm x 3.5cm. It covers the main body of the fuselage from the dorsal turret to the rear of the aircraft, and clears up a lot of the blank space that will be seen through the side windows. Initially, the dorsal turret receives a number of detail parts to improve the look of the mounting mechanism, including the foot-pegs that sit on a ratchet track for the gunner's comfort when sat on the bicycle style seat attached to the main unit. The small box of "tricks" at the foot of the turret mechanism gets a new instrument face that is sourced from the pre-painted fret. The floor on which the dorsal turret sits receives a complete skin, and the crew access door is detailed up with some additional parts, including some runners/stays for the opening mechanism, and a set of detail parts for the tunnel that pops out at the bottom of the dorsal turret itself. The door itself is completely replaced by s laminated PE assembly, which is quite fold-intensive, and has a framework panel that sits vertically next to the hatch. I'm not entirely sure what the function of this part is, but it is replicated on the inside of the mid-fuselage, so could be an inner floor panel that is inserted in the access doors during flight. The rear gunner's position is a little bare aft of the armour panel, and this is rectified by the set. As well as more scale-thickness "wings" on the top of the panel, there are a pair of skins for that section of the fuselage, plus separate raised ribs, various boxes and some additional details for the gun-sight. Moving forward, there is the aforementioned panel/rack attached to the inside of the inner fuselage just over the rear crew access door, and the door is replaced by a new PE lamination, with a detailed tunnel insert added for good measure. The final aspect of the set is a set of those tricky cooling jackets for the many guns installed on the B-25's various versions. There are 9 short jackets for the cheek guns (if installed) and nose guns, three medium ones for the dorsal turret guns, and six long shrouds for the rear guns, side guns. It seems that a few spares are present, which is handy, as rolling barrel shrouds can be tricky if you're new to the task. A piece of brass rod on a thin bed of kitchen roll will start you off, but make sure you anneal the parts in a lighter flame before you proceed to make them softer. Bomb Bay Set (32321) Another large set, this time containing two frets of 14.5cm x 9c m and 12.3cm x 7cm in bare brass. The first and most prominent section is the detailing of the bay roof, which receives several raised detail panels, plus some additional lumps and bumps, including details to the circular crew access door on both sides. The largest parts are the inner bay door skin, which attach to the kit parts to give more depth to the lightening holes, and add details to the edges of the doors themselves. The door retraction mechanism is augmented with some additional parts, and finally the sidewalls receive a comprehensive set of ribbing and panel enhancements that apply over the moulded in kit details. The bomb racks are also improved with some more realistic bomb shackles, the bombs get a pair of arming spinners fore and aft, and the bay sills receive some additional skins to finish the area off. A lot of PE, but quite a short instruction sheet due to the large size of some of the parts. Exterior Set (32319) Yet another large set, which I suppose I should stop commenting on because it's a large kit! This time it contains two frets of bare brass14cm x 7cm and 14cm x 10.3cm that are covered in densely packs parts. While the title is "exterior", almost the whole set is dedicated to the engine nacelles, providing extra bulkheads within the main body of the nacelle, small details for the engine, as well as ignition wiring. The cowling receives a full set of mounting lips for the access panels, inner skins for the access panels, and inner skins for the 14 cowling flaps, which will improve their look if you are posing them open. The final parts are actually a pair of nose-gear door skins that fix to the inside of the kit parts. Ammunition Belts (32320) A simple set on a smallish 10.3cm x 4.3cm fret, it contains strips of ammunition belt guides that glue to the sides of the kit parts, and the "fingers" are then folded over to provide a more accurate detail to the assembly. Simple and effective, and not too tricky to install. Mask Set (JX143) There are a lot of glazing panels on a B-25J, and masking them all accurately can be daunting for a great many modellers, which is where Eduard's mask range come in very handy. This is quite a large set, consisting of two sheets of their yellow kabuki-style tape, containing masks for the cockpit canopy, the nose glazing, rear turret, dorsal turret, side windows and of course the landing light covers. You will need a little liquid mask or tape to cover some of the more convex parts, which Eduard's masks usually provide just the all-important edges for, so don't forget to have some to hand when you start the job. The sheets are so full that there isn't space for any wheel masks, which are often present in these sets, but it's better than sacrificing glazing panels to fit them in. Conclusion As usual, you can pick and choose the sets that you want/can afford, and Eduard have really worked hard to provide us with the best selection here, with so much detail to add to an already great kit, you can really go to town. Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of