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Found 22 results

  1. I’m probably going to start another new tool Airfix Vulcan soon, and will be making it as an all-white aircraft using aftermarket decals for 83 squadron. According to Craig Bulman’s ‘Vulcan B.2 - From a different angle’, the first B.2s delivered to 83 squadron in 1961 included some in the XJ serial range. I was hoping to make XJ782, but the only photos I can find show this aircraft carrying only the squadron crest on the nose, not the antler on the fin. It gets even more confusing here as this aircraft has the CO’s pennant too, yet in the Xtradecal set it gives XL426 as being that of the CO in 1961, yet Bulman’s book suggests that aircraft didn’t join 83 Sqn until 1962! My question is basically this: Would I be wrong to add the antler marking to the fin of XJ782? I’m assuming (hoping!) it must have been added very soon after the above photos were taken. Does anyone know for sure or have any images to show it? I’ve seen a photo of sister XJ783 still with no antler in Sept 62, so fear it may only have been applied to the later Blue Steel Vulcans on the unit. Anyone know? The only reason I was going for 782 is because I already have an XL serialled Vulcan in gloss camo, and over time I’d like to do a wraparound XM, a camo/light grey XM603 and this, as a white XJ. But I really like that antler marking! Might have to rethink.
  2. Hi! Anniversary of Operation Musketeer/Mousquetaire/Kadesh/Suez war is approaching and I have been thinking about building one of more colourful aircraft taking part for a start. French F-84Fs and RF-84Fs, with various stripes and squadron badges, fit this description nicely. From gathered material I figured out about the identification stripes (single yellow stripe with black outline until the end of October, yellow-black stripes from 1st November on) and from available articles and books I learned about not so uniformed reality of improvised use of yellow paint on Cyprus, planes wearing both types of stripes and white, dark gray and possibly even blue stripes. Still, what bothers me the most are supposed Israeli markings on French fighter-bombers and reconnaissance planes, based in Israel. Israeli markings had been mentioned in several publications and there are plenty of colour profiles of both Thunderstreaks and Thunderflashes with stars of David, but I have not seen a single photo of the actual aircraft with such markings. In fact, all the photos of French planes in Israel bases show them marked with standard French cocarde. Any thoughts? Cheers Jure
  3. I have a request for information on behalf of an old friend and modeling mentor, who is building a scale flying model of one of the Spad XIII C.1's flown by Roland Garros. He has been unable to find anything significant. I'm not very well-versed or blessed with references when it comes to WW1 aircraft, but I was able to find print references to his flying Spad XIII C.1 serial numbers 15403 and 15409, but I have no way of knowing if that is indeed correct. My friend would like to make his model an accurate tribute to Garros. I would appreciate anything the membership could post, so I can repay in part some of the things he taught me about building accurate models. Mike Does anyone who might have either the 1/72 or 1/48 Eduard Spad XIII kits know if Garros' Spad is one of the markings choices? Are there any afternarket decal sheets for his Spads that might be a good modeling reference? Thanks in advance for anything you could provide.
  4. I am in the planning stage for a modeling project, using the 1/72 Eduard Bf-110G-4 kit. I have always wanted to build the example seen in the photo below, taken from the Warbird Photographs website, but have never been able to find the codes,complete camouflage pattern, or any other markings . I'm not married to the example in the photo, but would like it to be a G-4 with the same radar fit and MG 151 belly pod. Can any of you Luftwaffe Nachtjager experts help me out? (I will need to take the MG151 belly pod from my Eduard Bf110G-2 kit, as the G-4 boxing does not come with it.) If there are any examples that had this same fit, including the Schrage Musik 20mm cannon replacing the MG81z rear gun, that would be even better. Mike Photo purports this to be a Bf-110G-4b/R3 used to test the radar fit planned for the Bf-110G-4d
  5. High Definition Airbrush Paint Masks (1:32) Spitfire Mk.I/II & Me.262A-1/A-2 1:32 1 Man Army Every now and again a new product comes along that’s just a little bit unusual, and makes you stop and think for a moment why it hasn’t been a thing before now. Part of the reason at least is that we’ve been waiting for technology to provide us with the tools to accomplish these things. 1 Man army is a Belgian company that was begun by a gentleman by the name of Sven, and one of his interests is making aircraft models more realistic. I feel that stencils make a model look more realistic, but with decals you get the carrier film edges to hide, which can be quite the task, taking up lots of time applying clear varnish and flatting it back a few times over. Sven clearly feels the same, and has come up with an ingenious method for applying stencils in the same fashion as they’re applied to the real thing. By applying an actual stencil and spraying paint through it. Surely that’s too tricky for a model that’s 32 times smaller than the real thing? Ordinarily, yes, but now it isn’t. Sven has figured out a way to produce the tiniest of holes in kabuki tape with a laser cutter, allowing the modeller to press the tape down, spray a very thin coat of paint through the airbrush and create their own authentic-looking stencils. We’ve received two sets of masks for review, and helpfully Sven has included a couple of sample masks and even an example of the finished product sprayed onto a piece of white plastic card. To give it a personal test by a stencil masking “n00b” however, I decided to demonstrate the stencils on a piece of my own white styrene, to mimic the substrate on which we are most likely to be spraying on, and I also used some black paint through my airbrush so that it shows up well on camera – Sven recommends a dark grey for authenticity. I did my usual trick of not reading the instructions too, which didn’t even occur to me because I’m an impatient bucket-head. It turns out I didn’t need them, as they’re un pièce de gateau to use. I removed the individual sections of stencil from the backing sheet with a pair of sharp tweezers, which was a simple task. The tape sticks well, but doesn’t have too much adhesive power that could remove any paint beneath them, and could safely be left for up to a week if necessary. I tapped them down with a fingertip, then masked around them with some standard kabuki tape from Tamiya to prevent overspray. My paint choice was some Alclad Gloss Black Primer that was nearby, and it was applied using my awesome Gunze PS-770 airbrush, which has a 0.18mm needle and is the best airbrush I’ve ever used. I sprayed the paint in successive light coats until the area was looking suitably dark and blackish, but I didn’t want to overdo it and flood the masks, ruining my efforts. A few minutes later, I removed the Tamiya tape and gently lifted the masks to reveal some rather impressive-looking stencils. I couldn’t help but utter the immortal word “Wow!” when I first saw the results, and each one I removed was equally inspiring. You can see how good they are from the picture below, but you can also see the benefits of extensive masking as I managed to get overspray around the edges of the tape. If in doubt, mask the bejeezus out of your model to avoid overspray getting on your hard work. Each set arrives in a clear resealable foil bag, with the folded A3 instruction diagrams and a standard thick card User Manual, all printed on both sides on quality glossy paper. In between the outer leaves you will find the masking material, which is a slightly muddy yellow colour, and is backed by a brown transfer paper that imparts some of the muddiness to the masks. Each mask is cut into its own section, with its reference number etched into the corner for identification purposes. The instructions consist of several drawings that show where the stencils and markings should be placed, with additional text to help with the process. As well as the stencils you get a set of national markings, tail and fuselage codes, serials and other markings that will make your model totally awesome. Me.262A-1/A-2 Masks (32DET004) This sheet is full of stencils, crosses, swastikas, squadron codes and other useful markings, such as unit badges, dotted trestle markings and step outlines. The more complex masking is discussed on the pages of the User Manual, which shows the steps to create them, and how best to do it. Spitfire Mk.I/II RAF (32DET013) The Spit didn’t have a huge quantity of stencils applied, but due to the size of early WWII roundels, the set arrives on two sheets, with the majority of the space taken up with the various roundels, which are multi-step masks. Advisory stencils, lubrication notices, tail codes and fuselage codes are also included, as are wing walkway lines and other truly tiny stencils that you can barely even see. Conclusion What a time to be a modeller. So many new and innovative products are coming to the market thanks to technological advances and the inventive nature of our fellow modellers. Sven should do well from this marvellous range of masks, and if you’re a 1:48 modeller like me, he’s currently looking into the possibility of scaling some of the sets down to our preferred size. Sven is looking for distributors at the moment, but if you visit their site here you’ll be able to see an up-to-date list of where you can pick the sets up from. As our first review of his products, we’d like to take this opportunity to wish him all the best with this line. Extremely highly recommended. You can see the full range by following the link below Review sample courtesy of
  6. Hey Folks, I am having trouble finding Corsairs with the tri-color scheme that have carrier markings. Is it due to lack of documentation? or for some reason the tri-colored schemed aircraft did not get markings? Were most of them land-based, hence the lack of carrier markings? Also, are there any good examples of the walk-line placement on the wings? Did the width and placement vary?
  7. I found this while looking for B-24's stored at Kingman, AZ at war's end. Some very well-known and not so well-known assembly ships. Great modeling projects here, but a masking nightmare! Another bunch of likely candidates for @tonyot's case of Minicraft Libs he has squirreled away! Mike http://www.vintagewings.ca/VintageNews/Stories/tabid/116/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/477/Polka-Dot-Warriors.aspx
  8. Hi all, I used to model a ton as a kid. It's a few decades on, and having decided to honour my Grandfather with accurate-as-can-be reproductions of his units in Tunisia & Italy, the last few weeks I have both learned more than I need to about markings, and learned that there's... quite a lot to accuracy in colours, it would seem ha. I've already been blessed to a personal response from Mike Starmer (a few days back into the hobby and I'm already getting an email from royalty!), which together with his published research has of course been invaluable. But I wanted to throw out there what I have, for your comment regarding accuracy, and to solicit opinions on possible paint/colouring/location scenarios - and to share some pics. I've done a ton of research, I just want to get these final details across the finish line. And unfortunately I can't ask Granddad any more. Model 1: Quad tractor & 25 pounder 140th Field Regiment, Royal Artillery. 504 battery, C troop, Tunisia Jan-May 1943. (1st Army, 2nd AGRA). Markings - AoS: RA red/blue with white bar under, number 202. Formation - 2 AGRA had the same as 1st Army, shield with sword on George cross. Battery red/blue square with red in 2nd position, troop/gun marking "C1". They shipped from the UK to Tunisia via Algeria in early Jan 1943. Mike surmised that they most likely had the UK camouflage (SCC 2 + 1a), having shipped from the UK. But I'd like to throw a couple of details and possible theory out there, and some black & white photos. First, they newly camouflage painted their equipment immediately before shipping out. Second, apparently the equipment was sunk on the way out and they reequipped (with new vehicles & guns) from a depot in North Africa before going into action. Third, I have photos from their sister battery's Bishops that deployed together with them, and this doesn't smell like SCC2 + 1a to me. So my question of you experts is, is it realistic that rather than SCC2 +1a UK colours, they might have either immediately before sailing or in-theatre, used MEGO 1650 colours (Desert Pink ZI with disruptive, I'd guess given the area and photos, Dark Olive Green)? Model 2: Scammel Pioneer R100 & 7.2" Howitzer Subsequent to their action in Tunisia, in September 1943 (still in-theatre), 504 battery transferred to 75th (Highland) Heavy Regiment, and was reequipped with 7.2" Howitzers & Scammell Pioneer R100s. While the rest of 75th Heavy took part in Sicily and on up, 504 bty did not join the rest of 75th Heavy until Mar 1943, sailing from Algeria to Naples. (8th Army, 6 AGRA). What I am confident they were NOT painted: SCC 15 base was too late (12 Apr 1944, they were already in action). It's possible that per Mike's "By 1944 European colours and schemes predominated" they were SCC2 base, and from the photos I've seen, likely SCC 14 disruptive. But Mike also adds "In Italy, many vehicles used home schemes... but others showed the remnants of their final North African schemes or the new Middle East scheme which used a basic colour of Light Mud [SCC 5] with bold specified patterns of black [SCC 14] or dark olive green [similar to but not SCC7]". Given that they have a new regiment and spanking new equipment in theatre, just a couple of months after that new ME directive is issued, I'm quite sure they'd have a SCC 5 base at least at first. But the question is, what's the likelihood that they might have repainted to the European colours (SCC 2 base) before deploying to Italy from Africa 6 months later, Mar 1944? Photos I have seen suggest likely SCC 14 disruptive in either case. (Markings: AoS red/blue/white bar beneath, number 204. Formation - 6 AGRA had the 6th zodiac symbol, like a gothic M, white on black. Battery marking blue with red in 4th position, still awaiting some info on the troop). The 7.2" photos are from later in Italy, after Sept 1944, so may not be indicative of the Mar-Aug period I wish to capture. Please excuse my pedantry, but I'm sure you understand and it would seem I'm among good company! So any theories on the likely colourings, given these scenarios, would be appreciated. I hope this might foster a possible lively discussion! Else maybe I'm just being ignorant - but in any case, I appreciate your input. And an aside - a couple of these markings I am going to have to make, at the very least the 6 AGRA formation marking. It's occurred to me that I might be able to print to teslin with my inkjet, a waterproof paper substitute I use for printing maps. Has anybody had any luck with anything like this? I'd also like to express my appreciation for all of your discussion on the accuracy of books and especially the actual paints from various suppliers. Based on all this I have stayed away from... most of the suppliers of the SCC and other colours, and just ordered Sovereign Hobbies Colourcoats (I'm sure you purists would have me mix Mike's mixes, but I have to draw a line somewhere). Thanks very much. I'd also like to share this, which I have contributed to and from where a lot of my research came. The battle of Cassel, rear-guard for Dunkirk, was an overlooked and significant event http://140th-field-regiment-ra-1940.co.uk/ (I may make Granddad's 18-pdr next - he was one of the very few from 367 bty who got away). Ah - I just noticed there's no upload - I have the Bishop and 7.2" photos from his actual unit, here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/b77syeh11yeuyca/AAC_WWJiGL6HKJPy_T8l6Dvma?dl=0
  9. US Army Vehicle Markings 1944 (9781612007373) Casemate UK There are certain vehicle markings everyone is familiar with, the White US Star for one. However there are may more markings on military vehicles which the casual observer knows nothing about at all, from unit code letters, to tactical markings, through to bridge weight, and even during this time period debarkation codes for the invasion of Europe. Using a combination of historical photographs, and colour diagrams this publication looks at all the markings seen on US vehicles o the period. The book also looks at the camouflage used on these vehicles. The Book is split into the following areas; 1. Arsenal of Democracy - Looking at the US diverse production of all vehicles for the military. 2. The Communications Zone - That area away from the front line in operations, including re-supply and support units. 3. Organization of the US Army - Looking at the specific equipment allocated to units of the US Army. 4. Common Markings - From registrations, to National ID markings and usage markings. 5. Unit Markings - Army regulation AR-850-5 defined the markings for units. Also looks at USAAF vehicles, and tactical markings. 6. Camouflage - This looks at different camouflage patterns suggested. The book is hardback 254mm x 203 mm and 160 pages long. Iti s full of black & white photographs, a few colour ones and may colour diagrams of vehicle markings. The printing is first class. Conclusion This will be an invaluable resource for the modeller of US Army vehicles during this time frame. Very Highly recommended. Review sample courtesy of
  10. Hello everyone got a question on a relay chain here. SWMBO has a friend in Oklahoma that was digging up info from the Tulsa Air & Space Museum, and found this photo and caption of a Boeing B-47. The planes serial is 42100 in U.S.Navy markings. With a big McDonell-Douglas corporate logo, pound-sign #️⃣, & Oklahoma university football helmet ? A closer cleaner view shows us this. which enlarged gets this ? Anyone have any info or general knowledge of the aircraft history. Possibly why its got the strange nose art ? Also why it was seconded to the Navy and McD.-Douglas ? Any info is appreciated as always ? Dennis
  11. I'm planning a future build of a Wellington (Mk.II) and am trying to find out some info on the markings so it will be as accurate as possible. Were the serial numbers and codes painted on in standardized colo(u)rs, or did they vary by squadron? I just bought the Revell (1/72) kit and it shows the serial in red, but I have also seen images of the serial in white. I have only seen the codes in a white/off-white color. Also, what is the correct location for the serial number? I've seen some examples with it placed on the vertical stabilizer, but others have it placed on the fuselage near level with the horizontal stabilizers. In case this differs by squadron, I am focusing on 158 Squadron when based in Driffield. I have the serial number and code for the plane if that makes any difference. Thanks, Bill
  12. Instruction for spraying insignia and markings. Basic material in my case: Montex masks and Tamiya masking material. Model: The Tempest from SH in 32. Preparing the masks, so that you find later on the correct position again. Make the right and left side easy distinguishable. Positioning for marking I recommend spraying the individual markings before the camouflage. It is easier and avoids masking over too large areas. You save a lot of masking material! After the camouflage is done, you continue with roundels and flash. Red color is first done. The small masks can be easily positioned, big ones are too complicated for repositioning! In my case the ID strpes too. So you may avoid decals. No silvering at all. Weathering is also more easy! Happy modelling
  13. Ok so Im considering restarting work on my oldest shelf queen. Its an old Monogram PBY-5 non-amphib. I started in 2003. Im doing it in RAAF camouflage. Im doing a night harassement Catalina. Similar to the Black cats. I know the colors are RAAF night, RAAF Dk. Ocean blue, over Matt black. I equate the colors to EDSG, USN non spec. Sea blue, over Matt Black. I know Red Roo do a decal set for the plane Im doing, however Ive been waiting 3 years and can never seem to scrape the $ together. It would eat about 6 months budget up in one purchase. What i really am looking for and need is. 1) Roundel and code sizes in inches or CM’s ? Outer diameter ? Inner circle diameter ? I can convert these to 1/48th. So i can make masks. 2) Placement locations - all 6 or just upper wings and Fuselage ? 3) Roundel Colors ? Which Blue is best over the white ? 4) What kind of antennas besides the standard radio wires would they have carried ? Similar to USN or RN? Or completely different. Im not sure if i should use the search antennas included in the kit that mount under the wing ? Any help or info. someone can provide me moves this project closer to completion ? I did recieve info pertaining to the camouflage patterns, and colors about 9 months ago when i queried about that. Which went along way to moving this along. Thank you in advance. Dennis
  14. Hi, BAC 1-11-479 (ZE432) was repainted with the ETPS logo in large letters on the forward fuselage. Does anyone have any ideas of the two colours used? It looks Gold ,with a grey shadow, but I'm certain someone must know the true colours Dave
  15. I just got through looking at these videos of 112 Squadron Tomahawks; very interesting footage showing rearming and refueling, plus some lighter moments. I never noticed before that on some of the Tomahawks, the sharkmouth did not extend all the way to the base of the spinner backplate, as you can see a small band of the undersurface color. The last clip shows 112 Sq. Kittyhawks. If these have been posted before, I will be happy to remove them. I hope you enjoy looking at them. videos via You Tube. Mike https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S7RUpsJyuok https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4kuWJmcApo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Zp_UCvA3_I
  16. Here's a question on an older kit that I hope someone will be able to answer for me. Can anyone tell me what the Royal Navy markings that are in the kit? I cannot locate an instruction sheet online for the kit that would illustrate it. Have three of the West German Sea Kings, a Flying Tiger, and a USN SH-3 waiting in the 'wings'. I always passed this particular kit by, because of the yellow plastic (I guess I am lazy) and I do not model RAF generally, not knowing that there were RN markings inside. I concentrate on building mostly naval air subjects (USN, RN, RN, RAN). Always thought that at least the green plastic in the West German was easier to cover with greys. I think I even have an old Airfix kit that I bought for the decals! I know about the Heller Sea King (same kit) with the 814 NAS decals. Now if I can find a MODELDECAL Set 49 or Model Alliance 72121 for a decent price I'd be happy. Thank you!
  17. A fun site, not really for experts but more for children, i think. Sorry for clogging this otherwise very accurate resources section! But i think it can be a nice read for a modeller who is stalling on a build for example. Here is: A beginner's WWII aircraft camouflage and markings guide. (there are a few mistakes however, sorry but i have no connection what-so-ever with the site so cannot change anything about it) http://www.fritzthefox.com/camo_guide.html Also, a funny speculative article about the F-35 versus the spitfire, the EE Lightning against the spitfire, and other dissimilar warfare ideas. http://www.fritzthefox.com/f35_vs_spitfire.html Or google "fritz the fox". Regards, Johnny.
  18. Hi I think the bombs in the Monogram kit are M117 versions. Any ideas on the markings on these babies? Not a lot of pics around with the Streak bombed up Cheers sean
  19. Does anyone know what camouflage and markings were carried by the swordfish that attacked the Bismarck?
  20. Were the roundels on pre-war Hurricanes in bright or dull read and blue? According to an article in Model Aircraft Monthly November 2005 covering early Hurricanes, it says "An RAE Note on Camouflage Painting of Aircraft dated 19 March 1936 gives the revised form of roundels as being Yellow, Dull Blue, White and Dull red..." Is it known if Hawker used the new dull colours or kept using the bright colours? I am asking because the roundels on the Xtradecal X72193 covering Fabric Wing Hurricanes has all roundels in the bright colours. Is this correct? Interestingly, the new Xtradecal sheet on the Blenheim has all roundels in the dull colours. Any insights are much appreciated. Cheers, Peter
  21. Below please find a photograph of a Lancaster GR.3 I'm trying to reproduce. It's still some time before I get to the painting stage (I've got the wings on the fuselage, but the fuselage still needs some work - I know, I should have waited until the fuselage was done before attaching the wings, but I couldn't wait!). However, it's never too early to think about how I'm going to reproduce this wonderfully-filthy machine. I have my questions and comments added to this picture and I would definitely like anyone else's input regarding this. The overall scheme is simple - just the typical postwar maritime scheme of Medium Sea Grey over White. It's the dark areas that confuse me - exhaust stains, deliberately painted black, or the white overcoat worn away to show the black paint from the original Bomber Command scheme (I assume they just painted over that scheme, instead of stripping it off, then repainting it - those postwar years were somewhat austere). Thank you very much in advance for any help! Best Regards, Jason
  22. I started this as a thread in Work in progress. I am suprised that our usual Guru's haven't come to the fore. So I am do "repost" in the discussion section in the hope that it involes some reponse. ..Sailor' Malan's Spitfire that he flew with 74 Squadron in 1940, ZP-A (K9953)...I have Southern Expo 70th Anniversary decal sheet which shows a Sky Blue. Now we all know that the Stadard 1940 Scheme started of as Black/White and the went to Type S (Tamiya XF-21). What is the correct underside colour for Malan's Spit? Hope to hear some replies soon Regards Sean
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